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PrusaSlicer's profiles are just really well tuned. This makes sense, because they have a vested interest in having their machines print as well as possible out of the box. Any machine with a 1.75mm direct extruder and a 0.4mm nozzle can use them, and bowden machines should work well too with maybe some adjustment to the retraction settings. I suppose in theory you can get the same results from Cura, but why would you bother when PrusaSlicer is right there?
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Feb 4, 2022 02:42
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aside from a couple niche instances, Cura has worked utterly fine for me. 
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Feb 4, 2022 02:58
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To be fair, I was just calling out some things that stood out to me. My real suggestion was to dump the whole profile for whatever the default settings for. .2 layer with a . 4 nozzle. It's my base profile and outside of changing temps and specific speeds, it's my go to. CHEP has some nice settings on adjusting wall overlap to make things smoother Other then infill %, temp, and some minor settings around ironing I'm cool with the default. But I am desperate to switch to super slicer once I get my Ercd up and eunning
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Feb 4, 2022 03:49
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Does anyone have any personal experience with the new DLP anycubic photon ultra printer? I'm just super curious about how the printer feels.
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Feb 4, 2022 03:51
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Roundboy posted:To be fair, I was just calling out some things that stood out to me. My real suggestion was to dump the whole profile for whatever the default settings for. .2 layer with a . 4 nozzle. What does super slicer offer exactly. Prusaslicer has already felt leaps and bounds above the other garbage Ive been using I know as far as vorons go it's been highly recommended, but prusaslicer already seems configurable as all hell
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Feb 4, 2022 06:53
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w00tmonger posted:What does super slicer offer exactly. Prusaslicer has already felt leaps and bounds above the other garbage Ive been using I don't have much experience with prusaslicer but Superslicer is way way better than Cura, Slic3r, or Simplify. The calibration tools are ready useful, especially if you're having issues and / or need to learn the basics. I guess it has more granular controls than prusa and more of an open source community. https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile is built for a voron but I toned jt down slightly and it works amazing on a direct drive but otherwise stock ender 3. I'm now getting better quality printing PETG at 120+mm/s than I was previously with PLA at sub 60. I also switched to Klipper and Fluidd and they are worlds better than marlin/octopi. Pressure advance and resonance compensation are amazing, easy recompile is very useful, and Fluidd is way way smoother and sensibly designed than octo. I don't know why they have this rep as being hard to install or only for speed nerd printers. Just get fluiddpi and print at normal speeds till you calibrate everything and you'll have a much better experience and be able to troubleshoot and adjust more more rapidly. Ender gantry guy, I truly feel your pain, but take this advice in addition to the excellent bits posted by Nero and others: - Ditch the BL touch. It caused me endless frustration and it's only complicating your troubleshooting. Learn to get really good at manual leveling. - Install Superslicer and Fluiddpi and follow all the instructions. Do all the Superslicer calibrations till your prints are near perfect, then do pressure advance and resonance comp. - If you're still convinced your hardware is hosed up, design/print things that are specifically made to test your theories, one variable at a time. In my experience, you shoot yourself in the glans fiddling with hardware and breaking / misalignjng poo poo that was actually a leveling/temp/flow/slicer problem - Use the tune menu in the printer to troubleshoot mid print, stare at the layers obsessively. Even after calibrations you'll need to tune in slicer/printer to optimize specific prints/materials. - Don't touch any "advanced" settings or surface quality things till you have perfect extrusion throughout the print. - Don't get dual z. I guarantee it's not the root of your issues and it'll just drive you battier. The ender gantry isn't ideal but its issues are way overstated - Don't just print endless benchmarks and tests; print things you like of a variety of shapes and tolerances. I'm not going to speculate on your exact problems cuz there are a few interconnected ones that you can only solve with procedural tuning. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ is a great resource. Hope this helps. After having a lot of trouble and just haplessly changing random variables forever, I am astonished how reliably well my ender is performing after following these tactics. Zedri Edfly fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Feb 4, 2022 |
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Feb 4, 2022 11:15
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w00tmonger posted:What does super slicer offer exactly. Prusaslicer has already felt leaps and bounds above the other garbage Ive been using I had been using PrusaSlicer for years, a colleague at work pointed me at SuperSlicer, and there were a few things that stood out. - Thin wall handling that was better than anything else I'd tried. - Excellent in-built calibration tests. - It's still mostly PrusaSlicer, minus some of the warts. - Some neat brim features that are handy. - And some ability to do neat things with internal holes and so on that help if you're needing to change a hole size. If you've never sat there wishing PrusaSlicer had a feature, then just like I say about Marlin don't bother switching. But I kept running into little things I was looking for which SuperSlicer solved for me. The author will take the time to explain slicer principles if you ask a considered question which has enhanced my understanding of printing substantially.
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Feb 4, 2022 11:59
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Prusaslicer has open feature requests and issues from ~4 years ago that haven't been touched, and a lot of them are fixed in superslicer. Honestly I think it's worth getting to know all the big slicers because they have fairly distinct strengths and weaknesses. If just one works for you all the time, that's awesome but that's certainly not the case for me. e: I'm still mad that Kisslicer is more or less abandoned, and equally mad that other slicers haven't taken the Kisslicer approach to seams. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Feb 4, 2022 |
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Feb 4, 2022 14:35
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And I still want Simplify3D's rafts on SuSi or PrusaSlicer :oldmancloud:
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Feb 4, 2022 15:08
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Cura has better support handling , and the ability to place user directed supports (or remove them) on portions of the model. Also, with tedious work lets you use different settings for portions of the model. ex the top and bottom of a model has 75% infill, and the center is 10%, etc. Superslicer did just also update to have brims only on specific portions on the model. Think back to those large articulated slugs we all printed. The two antenna made me use a brim to keep them on the plate, but i hated using it for the whole slug. This lets me only use it where i want it That being said. superslicer is a more often updated fork of prusasclier, and I am trying to switch over for how it separated profiles between printers and materials. With cura it saves based on layer height. I would need to duplicate the whole thing to have a .2 profile for pla vs petg vs even another PLA type. Supeslicer would let me keep all my settings for speed, etc and when i switch pla types it would only change the temp like i want. I know its in prusa, hopefully superslicer where you can paint the rendered model with the color you want, and when you have multiple extruders it will use the color depending. I think previously multimaterial was done when you create the model, but i have never done it so i am admittedly a novice there. The enraged rabbit carrot feeder is in my near future to build and try. But in the meantime i have resolved to buy a spool of each color i want and be more aggressive on switching, rather then just print everything out in the color i just happen to have loaded.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:15
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Friend wants to get timelapses working on Klipper/Mainsail. Messaged me earlier asking whether the macro "TIMELAPSE_TAKE_FRAME" would be the right one. I mean, we're German speaking, but he knows enough English to parse that one. Why do these people do DIY stuff with software and/or electronics?!insta posted:And I still want Simplify3D's rafts on SuSi or PrusaSlicer :oldmancloud: Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Feb 4, 2022 |
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Feb 4, 2022 16:30
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Roundboy posted:Also, with tedious work lets you use different settings for portions of the model. ex the top and bottom of a model has 75% infill, and the center is 10%, etc. Pretty sure this is in PrusaSlicer as well and has been since early 2020 (https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifiers_1767/#height-range-modifier)?
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Feb 4, 2022 16:33
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty sure this is in PrusaSlicer as well and has been since early 2020 (https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/modifiers_1767/#height-range-modifier)? Yeah, super slicer also has support painting which imo is nicer than cura's. I do wish it had tree support. Overall I'd say Cura has more features but super handles the fundamentals better and the interface/profiles are more sensible, as roundboy said.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:37
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Combat Pretzel posted:Friend wants to get timelapses working on Klipper/Mainsail. Messaged me earlier asking whether the macro "TIMELAPSE_TAKE_FRAME" would be the right one. I mean, we're German speaking, but he knows enough English to parse that one. Why do these people do DIY stuff with software and/or electronics?! I think S3D (and Cura, similarly) have special "raft" code. Slic3r (and derivatives) just loft the model by X layers and use regular support generation underneath it, and assume that's good enough. It's a really stupid method.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:44
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Sagebrush posted:PrusaSlicer's profiles are just really well tuned. This makes sense, because they have a vested interest in having their machines print as well as possible out of the box. Any machine with a 1.75mm direct extruder and a 0.4mm nozzle can use them, and bowden machines should work well too with maybe some adjustment to the retraction settings. The Prusa Mini is a single-gear-extruder bowden machine so I'd assume that you could also get suitable retraction settings by starting with the Mini profile rather than the Mk3 one. Roundboy posted:Cura has better support handling , and the ability to place user directed supports (or remove them) on portions of the model. Also, with tedious work lets you use different settings for portions of the model. ex the top and bottom of a model has 75% infill, and the center is 10%, etc. Superslicer did just also update to have brims only on specific portions on the model. Think back to those large articulated slugs we all printed. The two antenna made me use a brim to keep them on the plate, but i hated using it for the whole slug. This lets me only use it where i want it The stuff I've hilighted is in PrusaSlicer, so I assume it's in SuperSlicer as well.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:51
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You should not have to be using rafts in 2022. Get a PEI bed and level it properly.
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Feb 4, 2022 17:31
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Sagebrush posted:You should not have to be using rafts in 2022. Get a PEI bed and level it properly. untrue.. Well true in that you can just as easily use a brim, rafts are overkill unless you have issues with curling and cooling. But a PEI bed will never magically solve physics of small parts that barely touch the bed
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Feb 4, 2022 17:48
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Sagebrush posted:You should not have to be using rafts in 2022. Get a PEI bed and level it properly. I'm printing PEI, I'm not going to print that ON PEI. I knew that lovely reply was coming. Everybody's use case is not yours.
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Feb 4, 2022 17:51
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insta posted:I'm printing PEI, I'm not going to print that ON PEI. I knew that lovely reply was coming. Everybody's use case is not yours. If you are printing engineering superpolymers, your use case is so far outside everyone else's that you might as well not even mention it. Of course you are going to have to have an unusual setup. Please qualify why you need to do those things, so that newbies don't get the idea that they should start loving with stuff right out of the box because "well, the experts seem to be doing it this other way."
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Feb 4, 2022 18:10
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Yeah, specifically calling PEI instead of just "have a properly flat bed of the right material for your use-case" is technically incorrect but the basic point is still true. Remember when people were printing things like this to test their bed adhesion setup/method?
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Feb 4, 2022 18:12
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Sagebrush posted:If you are printing engineering superpolymers, your use case is so far outside everyone else's that you might as well not even mention it. Of course you are going to have to have an unusual setup. Please qualify why you need to do those things, so that newbies don't get the idea that they should start loving with stuff right out of the box because "well, the experts seem to be doing it this other way." I print commercially, and sometimes people want parts in Ultem or PSU. So, my use-case is "use SuSi with the S3D raft so I can slather a bunch of bed adhesive onto a CF plate and hope the poo poo sticks down". I have a need for rafts, and I was just lamenting that S3D / Cura have good rafts, and SuSi is better at everything else. I wanted the best of both worlds, sorry if it was such a stupid ask.
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Feb 4, 2022 19:02
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I think that's cool and good. I guess I am also just immediately triggered by people saying "boy, I wish I could change $THING on my machine, how do I do that?" when $THING is not something that 99% of people should be touching, and the only reason they only want to do it because they read it on a Facebook group and it's just cargo cult poo poo with no basis in reality and their problem is coming from somewhere else. Or maybe they don't even have a problem at all, and they just can't help loving with the machine like it's an Android phone with a custom ROM. Someone new to 3D printing should just get PrusaSlicer and use the stock profiles and not change anything until they know what they're doing. If a newbie comes in here and lurks and sees people saying "yeah, I don't like PrusaSlicer, I have to use SuperSlicer for its rafts and Cura for its whatever" -- without qualifying that you need rafts because you are commercially printing superpolymers that they don't even know exist -- they might start thinking "hmm, I should do that too!" and gently caress everything up for themselves. You see the same thing in every field. In the motorcycle forum it's people coming in with a Ninja 250 and asking what new exhaust system and suspension upgrades they need to make, because they've seen serious racers talking about that. NONE! Don't change a thing! Just ride the loving bike (or print with the loving printer) and deal with problems if you have them. So in your case do what you need to do. I think that given the context of the thread, which is like 20% experts and 80% "why are there lines in my benchy," it's good to qualify any unusual things you're doing with the reason you're doing them, so that the newbies don't start copying them for no reason.
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Feb 4, 2022 19:15
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So.. Paint on supports, are in PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer got them FROM PrusaSlicer. The next revision of PrusaSlicer has been demonstrated to have ~really good~ raft and support interfaces. The support interfaces in cura is roughly the only reason I still have any sort of attraction to it. And.. tree supports. Prusaslicer does not do that well. "yet".
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Feb 4, 2022 19:39
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Anyone have a recommendation for a transparent filament, or just grab whatever has decent reviews on amazon?
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Feb 4, 2022 20:22
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natural PETG, and it won't be at all transparent when you're done with it
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Feb 4, 2022 20:24
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BMan posted:natural PETG, and it won't be at all transparent when you're done with it Yeah, just looking for something that’ll let colored LEDs shine through
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Feb 4, 2022 20:28
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Toebone posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a transparent filament, or just grab whatever has decent reviews on amazon? https://taulman3d.com/t-glase-spec.html Fair warning, it is pricy. https://taulman3d.com/buy-direct.html (scroll down to the T-glase listing)
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Feb 4, 2022 20:51
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Ive had good luck with jessie PLA in quarter white for nice diffusers.
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Feb 4, 2022 20:53
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At the risk of causing another fight in this thread, who is your US go-to non-amazon filament place? I don't want to fund more dick rockets for that bald gently caress with my like 25 dollar purchases.
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Feb 4, 2022 21:26
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Nerobro posted:So.. Paint on supports, are in PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer got them FROM PrusaSlicer. Re SuperSlicer, it's worth noting code is brought in from PrusaSlicer updates, and I believe code has gone the other way too. They're not so different as to be on their own. It's one of the things I think worthwhile about the effort.
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Feb 4, 2022 21:30
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Man, is there anyway to draw z seam in a straight line on Prusaslicer? Tried using the cutaway feature, but still comes out like I am currently having a stronk.
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Feb 4, 2022 21:40
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Sagebrush posted:they just can't help loving with the machine like it's an Android phone with a custom ROM. Zedri Edfly posted:Ender gantry guy, I truly feel your pain, but take this advice in addition to the excellent bits posted by Nero and others: After the past couple of days of printing and advice from everyone else here I'm not going to go dual Z nor do I think the hardware is the problem (at most maybe the lead screw is slightly bent). I think a large part of the problem I was running into was that I had been modifying my slicer settings here and there for the past couple years, but never having a baseline "this is consistently decent" cura profile to fall back on if I hosed something up. So I was always changing things here and there to fit a specific use case, forgetting about it, and then going "why is this printing like poo poo all of the time?" For now I'm using just the baseline prusaslicer settings for an Ender and everything seems fine so far. I've got a couple maintenance prints to make to clean up the messy cable management, stick the SKR in a new box, probably re-print another HeroMe as the current one has a couple of cracks and layer separations in it and then I'll move on to Fluidd + Klipper and tune for that. At the end of the day, this isn't a production printer. It's just a hobby thing that lets me print out parts I need for small home improvement projects or little knick knacks around the house. I'll never need to print in anything more exotic than PETG or TPU for 95% of my applications. So my end goal is just to get it to a point where if I leave it for a month then I'm just a bed level and maybe a couple config changes away from having decent quality prints without having to hear to top end apart or re-compile Marlin or something. The only real upgrade I may make in the future is putting in an all-metal hotend so I can run at 230-250 consistently to print in PETG and TPU without cooking the PTFE tube and releasing a bunch of neurotoxins. But again, that's only something I've heard is a concern. But it is one I would rather not push my luck on. MustardFacial fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Feb 4, 2022 |
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Feb 4, 2022 21:43
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Droogie posted:At the risk of causing another fight in this thread, who is your US go-to non-amazon filament place? I don't want to fund more dick rockets for that bald gently caress with my like 25 dollar purchases. You can always shop directly with the manufacturer. These are all places I've bought from before and they all have similar quality filament. Just watch for who has the best sale at a given time/who sends the best discount code in email. https://www.hatchbox3d.com/collections/shop-all https://www.villageplastics.com/store/ https://www.3dfuel.com/ https://www.monofilamentdirect.com/ Also Printed Solid has a line of filament but you need to specifically go here for it: https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/jessie to avoid accidentally buying someone else's filament.
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Feb 4, 2022 21:57
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snail posted:Re SuperSlicer, it's worth noting code is brought in from PrusaSlicer updates, and I believe code has gone the other way too. They're not so different as to be on their own. It's one of the things I think worthwhile about the effort.
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Feb 4, 2022 22:19
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Toebone posted:Yeah, just looking for something that’ll let colored LEDs shine through Plain old clear PETG will be best. It's water-clear with no tint. The thicker the layers, the more transparent the printed part will be. With fine layers you'll tend to get a frosted effect, while with thick layers it will start to look more like a car taillight lens. For some reason, all the clear PETG I've bought has printed best at a lower temperature than colored stuff. Maybe the pigment does something to it, or they have to use a different blend to make it really clear, or idk. About 210-212C in my case vs 230 ish for colored filament.
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Feb 4, 2022 22:20
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I've had good luck with both transparent PLA and PETG. The PLA is super brittle, though.
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Feb 4, 2022 22:25
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Droogie posted:At the risk of causing another fight in this thread, who is your US go-to non-amazon filament place? I don't want to fund more dick rockets for that bald gently caress with my like 25 dollar purchases. My $90 10 pack from gst3d has been reasonably solid for the price, though I do keep a couple $20 hatchbox rolls around for important stuff.
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Feb 4, 2022 22:28
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Hatchbox won't ship to Canada and the stuff on amazon.ca is $60/roll. Fortunately filaments.ca and Spool3D make fairly decent stuff in in my experience.
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Feb 4, 2022 23:06
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Droogie posted:At the risk of causing another fight in this thread, who is your US go-to non-amazon filament place? I don't want to fund more dick rockets for that bald gently caress with my like 25 dollar purchases. I like to buy jessia pla from printedsolid.com and polymaker filaments direct from polymaker.
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Feb 4, 2022 23:19
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Ive never seen anybody mention them here, but I like Atomic Filament. Matter Hackers home-brands are pretty good too.
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Feb 5, 2022 00:14
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