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IOwnCalculus posted:If you put the crow's foot at 90 degrees to the wrench, there's no change in torque. Also true, I just didn't think about it because the only time I've had to even use it, it had to be straight-on due to space.
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Jan 5, 2022 01:53
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I ordered custom cut seat foam from https://www.thefoamfactory.com/ for my golf cart, they sell the latex foam too.
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Jan 6, 2022 01:40
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Okay, some more catchup. Firstly, we got cold. -18*F, which is 6* colder than the previous coldest since we bought the house. Everything held up fine but the shop was mid-40s because the only heat out there is a space heater. I tried to wrench but was not very productive. Then we got even more snow. We have had over 10’ of snow fall this winter. It is snowing as I write this. We are out of places to even put the snow; this is along my driveway and those 4x4 posts are just over 10 feet tall:  The snowblower can barely get up over that, and we have a big snowblower. After the cold and snow we warmed up, which caused its own problems. On Monday I got all the way to the office parking lot before they officially closed State offices because the roads were ICE. My boss’s comment in the parking lot was “How was your death drive in?”. With the office being closed we went home, and I figured it would be a good day to wrench, except we had a problem.  That’s the side of our house. Along the dormer for our master bathroom the water ran under the eaves and then dammed at the bottom. That leaked down through the wall, dripping all the way down to our water heater, and tripped the water sensor. The snow was 4 feet deep and even standing where I took that picture was dangerous. What we ended up doing was dragging the pressure washer upstairs, hooking it to hot water, and adding ice melt to the soap mixer/dispenser. I sprayed the roof with hot salty water and that got the ice dam to melt. Then I tossed enough calcium chloride up onto the roof to melt a Toyota. So far it seems to be working. Car progress: I finally figure out the drat ABS sensors and have started putting things together. Here is the new driver’s side strut, from the top:  Here is the passenger side original strut:  Both are OEM Nissan. Notice a difference? Nissan didn’t install the cap at the factory. Windshield water can drain right there and pool on the nut without that cap. gently caress you, Nissan. Continuing that trend, I put the suspension back together (temporarily because I HAD TO ORDER EVEN MORE GODDAMN PARTS) and tried to insert the ABS sensor. It wouldn’t even start down the hole. That’s when I realized that the hole was effed:  I would like to think that is just corrosion but it is not. It’s super lovely casting and machining, as evidenced by the chunk of slag on a supposedly machined surface just outside the hole. How did they get the original sensor in there? No idea. I was wracking my brain to figure out how to clean that up when I spotted a honing/sanding attachment for my dremel tool that somehow is exactly the right size:  Now that the hole is clean and the sensor fits, I’m hoping to get it all put back together (again temporarily) tomorrow.
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Jan 17, 2022 07:01
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Got working on the brakes so I could get the driver’s side buttoned up. Pulled the pads and they weren’t even: I recall them being like that for the last (1st) brake job as well. I also remember cursing like hell because the pads WOULD NOT go into the slides, a trend which repeated itself. I finally got a pad in…  …and realized the caliper may not have had great machining when new. This is the original caliper and that pad never really moved - this time I could only get it to slide with extreme force. Basically, the caliper is hosed. So two new calipers are on the way, plus $90 shipping to get them by February 16. Ugh. Got the driver’s side buttoned up minus the brakes and started on the passenger side. FINALLY. What loving idiot designed this? Note that I already cut it because there’s no real way to get the sway bar link out intact:  Shortly after that I had to cut it out because the wrench flats on the back won’t hold. It’s not a full hex and if the wrench slips even once, it’s toast. I had to do the same on both sides. I did make a lot of really good progress though. Got the whole passenger’s side apart:  I even got the dreaded ABS sensor replaced! The knuckle and wheel bearing are sitting with some penetrating oil so I took the strut apart and found this:  THE SPRING IS NOT ROUND The car has had a weird clunk on the passenger aide for as long as I can remember (and I’m the original owner). I couldn’t diagnose it as ball joints so I wasn’t sure what was happening. Now I think the spring was bouncing in and out of the groove in the strut bearing. So, guess what? MORE NEW PARTS ON ORDER! I’m over $3,000 into this stupid project now. I would really like to move on from this project. It should have been a weekend job when I started - back in October. To end this on a happier note, here is evidence that heated LED headlights work well: 
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Jan 24, 2022 07:02
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Not to self: never buy a Nissan. Also: are you sure you didn't find those brake pads on the bottom of the ocean? You could have filed the slots on the caliper mount until the pads fit properly, BTW, but yeah, they need to move freely to, you know, work.
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Jan 24, 2022 18:14
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I did file the caliper a bit; this lip had to go: I messed up the slides in the ‘jamming pads where they don’t fit’ process so would need to order those anyway, plus these calipers have 108,000 miles - eventually I would need replacement calipers so now is as good a time as any. This way I hopefully won’t trash the pads and rotors for a while.
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Jan 24, 2022 18:41
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I have two cars with over 200k miles still on, as far as I know, all four original calipers. All hail Texas weather and lack of salt. And snow, for that matter. The heat does a number on paint and vinyl, on the other hand. Not as bad as Arizona, but…
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Jan 24, 2022 21:20
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I've got a lot of cars with sliders that lasted till over 200k before I had to replace them and Mass salts the earth 6 months a year.
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Jan 25, 2022 00:02
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Not a lot of visible progress but stuff has been happening. For starters, a lot of parts have been ordered and come in for both the car and FJ62; I now have calipers and am just waiting on the coil springs. OF COURSE they are only available out of a low-volume facility in upstate New York, where I can pay another $30 to have them pulled sometime before March. One cruiser part that came in is another shift knob. I now have two choices I can use:  On the left is a new 4-speed knob for a 60 series Land Cruiser, with the shift pattern replaced by the 5 speed pattern. On the right is the knob Toyota used for my new transmission. The one on the left matches my transfer case knob, the one on the right *might* be more ergonomic. Today we got to work tearing down the FJ60 front axle; I plan to use this diff for the FJ62 rear.  My wife was super thrilled to learn about cone washers. It didn’t have any water in the diff but the driver’s side seal was dead and that made a giant freaking mess.  After this point we had to spend the rest of the evening cleaning. It’ll be another mess to finish getting the housing clean. I would love to complain about how little space we have to work around it, with the car in the way, but it’s still inside, dry, and heated. It’s a real first world problem. E-tank has been hard at work; right now it has the FJ60 driveshaft:  I put the little tank back into use this weekend to do my breakfast egg pans. They’re smaller than our stove burners and we have a glass cooktop so 15 years of splatter burned to the outside had to come off:  They’re in the oven right now re-seasoning so I can use them for breakfast:  So - which shift knob should I use?
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Jan 31, 2022 07:02
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Advent Horizon posted:
left seems like the obvious answer to me, unless you have significant comfort concerns looks way slicker, and much more at home in an older truck. plus it must add at least a couple horsepower, no?
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Jan 31, 2022 07:34
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Raluek posted:left seems like the obvious answer to me, unless you have significant comfort concerns Same all around. Left looks more like an 8-ball shifter and I fuckin love my 8-ball shifter.
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Feb 1, 2022 02:35
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Two questions: 1-electrolysis tank? 2-What are those sheets of something on your floor under the sawhorses?
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Feb 1, 2022 04:54
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1. Yep, electrolysis tank. The big one is a garbage can: I’m really happy I put it on wheels since I had to roll it into the garage today because it froze:  I just this second realized the freezing could have damaged my driveshaft and that’s not a happy thought. Fingers crossed. 2. Under the sawhorses are horse stall mats. You can get them from Tractor Supply or some hardware stores. They take off just enough pressure that it doesn’t hurt to stand on them all day, plus they’re hard enough for stuff to roll across easily. I have them in the workbench area of the shop, my weight room, and even one under my desk at work. The only negatives are they smell like burnt rubber when new (that dissipates fairly quickly) and that they take poorly to solvent/hydrocarbon spills that don’t get immediately cleaned. Some fantastic project news, the springs for the car came in today!  I honestly didn’t expect them for another week and that has me ecstatic. I’m hoping to get the car on all four wheels again by the weekend.
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Feb 1, 2022 08:23
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Would the electrolysis tank work better/faster with heated water? Like with a big aquarium heater turned up to maybe 70* or something? Or is speed/performance dictated primarily by the amount of electric current running through the system?
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Feb 1, 2022 17:05
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Oh, yeah, it absolutely works faster. 6+ amps with warm water vs 1-1.5 near freezing. I hadn’t considered an aquarium heater before. Looks like Petco has a 200W for $17 if I buy online and pick up in store.
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Feb 1, 2022 22:14
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I may have missed it, but how's the Portable Garage/Car bay holding up?
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Feb 1, 2022 22:15
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It’s holding up okay, but we’re diligent about clearing it off after every snowfall. Unfortunately we’ve managed to poke a couple small holes in it with the broom. The problem we have is our local humidity; even without the end panels on the fabric builds condensation. The FJ62 was parked in there for 2 weeks and we realized it was rusting noticeably faster - we plan to take the tent down in the spring since it hasn’t been useful like we hoped. The ‘cruiser will need to live indoors.
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Feb 1, 2022 23:07
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Tyvek housewrap tape will almost certainly stick to the tent if you spot dry it first. That poo poo will stick to anything.
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Feb 2, 2022 00:05
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Does condensation not stick to Tyvek? This is moisture condensing on the tent from the air. It’s not coming through. I even left the end panels off specifically for more airflow.
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Feb 2, 2022 01:12
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I bought a billboard vinyl tarp for extra protection and haven’t noticed condensation on the inside. Now between the layers is another story, but so far I’m happy with how dry everything has stayed. This is on the north side of a building that historically turns green faster than any other side due to the lack of sun.
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Feb 2, 2022 01:43
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Advent Horizon posted:Does condensation not stick to Tyvek? Yeah you're still screwed on that front, I just mean to patch the holes.
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Feb 2, 2022 05:27
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You could buy a big sheet of some sort of fabric (non-tarp/non-plastic) and fit it to the inside of the tent roof - perhaps cable tie it to the bottom of the ridge and top side poles such that it hangs like the inner on a conventional camping tent would with an air gap between it and the outer cover. I think it would work like a normal double skinned camping tent then and the condensation should not drip onto the truck and might dry out better. Can you buy something like a fabric dust sheet from your local DIY superstore for this or just visit your closest fabric shop and buy whatever material is cheapest by foot off the roll. (There is one near me that specialises in roll ends/off cuts and end of line patterns which is cheap)
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Feb 2, 2022 14:08
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The problem is the moisture builds under those sheets. Around here you want a roof up high and lots of air movement around the item you’re trying to keep dry. I’ve lifted the tent up on pilings but snow filled that gap. I’m going to see if that air gap works at all in the summer before I take it down, but I don’t foresee leaving it up next winter. Let me put it this way: my firewood is molding rather than seasoning.
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Feb 2, 2022 20:08
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Advent Horizon posted:The problem is the moisture builds under those sheets. Around here you want a roof up high and lots of air movement around the item you’re trying to keep dry. OK, bear with me. What about just like a GIANT 20' FAN underneath the truck. If it's big enough you should be able to literally blow any snow or rain back up into the sky.
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Feb 2, 2022 20:43
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builds character posted:OK, bear with me. What about just like a GIANT 20' FAN underneath the truck. If it's big enough you should be able to literally blow any snow or rain back up into the sky. This sounds like a bond trap... and he's got plenty of bears.
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Feb 3, 2022 00:01
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I like the giant fan idea. We actually tried running an oscillating fan under the tent but it only kept new condensation from forming; the existing stuff didn’t dry. I’m not sure if I mentioned it here but I ordered a case of Toyota red coolant from my local dealer back in September. I finally got to pick it up today. I also put in orders for almost the last few items I need to get this rear main seal replacement underway. Assuming all my orders go through and the parts arrive, I *think* I only have one item left to buy. Everything arriving is a tall order, though - my clutch master cylinder and transmission mount have taken a detour to Puerto Rico.
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Feb 3, 2022 06:33
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Advent Horizon posted:The problem is the moisture builds under those sheets. Around here you want a roof up high and lots of air movement around the item you’re trying to keep dry. Remember I'm in the UK so I know my mold!  The gulf stream just keeps our moisture in its liquid form for 364 days of the year rather than it freezing like yours. I hadn't realised till now that we are pretty much the same latitude too. My car spent 10 years in a tent here and didnt struggle with moisture, so it must be fixable! My tent looks like it had a better design of end panels to yours. The doors hung like a shower curtain rather than zipping, leaving some airflow gaps and the triangular canvas section above the door was removable. One of these was off permanently for most of the time on mine. This is a poo poo picture but in it you can see that the front top section is fitted here and the rear top section is removed. This seems to have allowed enough airflow through mine to stop any mold.  Did you say that you already have the end panels removed or do you still have the front one fitted? I wonder if i was just really lucky with mine that I chose a spot that caught maximum sunlight and had a good through draft?
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Feb 3, 2022 12:27
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My rear end panel has never been installed and I’ve had the front door rolled up since I noticed there still wasn’t sufficient airflow. ‘Enough sunlight’ in Juneau? You’re funny.  My shed does okay but it has the top 2 feet of each wall open. That seems to allow enough air movement.
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Feb 3, 2022 16:45
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Advent Horizon posted:My rear end panel has never been installed and I’ve had the front door rolled up since I noticed there still wasn’t sufficient airflow. You have clearly never visited this country!    I had never realised how similar it was to your bit of Alaska. We have the same short as poo poo winter days too. To get back on topic, I guess you've got to rig up those fans then... you could take the whole front panel off too, or zip up the door and instead drop it down from the top to see if that lets more air move through right at the top against the condensation.
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Feb 3, 2022 18:55
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Well, you got me on the sunshine front. I concede the title. The real solution is to park the ‘cruiser inside a real garage. I have heated (and dehumidified) parking for two vehicles, plus the well-aerated shed for another. The problem is that we have five plus the motorcycle.
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Feb 3, 2022 19:47
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My greenhouses do the same thing in the winter, the choice is run a ton of fans 24/7 running up the electric bill to new and exciting highs or wait until its warmer out. I leave the doors at least partially open unless I'm expecting some crazy winds. Based on the little I know about your area you're screwed. My new goto solution to storage is get a shipping container, I'm wondering what the condensation would be like inside of one of those in your rainforest humidity.
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Feb 4, 2022 21:52
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Thanks for the electrolysis tank idea as it made me think of that I actually have a spare garbage can on wheels (with a lid) that would be perfect for the application. Especially as I'm hopefully buying a Dodge Dart soon and might (will) need it. Anything that can do work while I do other things is great, and it would be cool to have for bigger stuff!
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Feb 4, 2022 22:01
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SpeedFreek posted:My greenhouses do the same thing in the winter, the choice is run a ton of fans 24/7 running up the electric bill to new and exciting highs or wait until its warmer out. I leave the doors at least partially open unless I'm expecting some crazy winds. Shipping containers are terrible with humidity. I've seen them literally rain from big temp swings. They're uninsulated steel boxes.
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Feb 5, 2022 07:24
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thanks for the electrolysis tank idea as it made me think of that I actually have a spare garbage can on wheels (with a lid) that would be perfect for the application. Especially as I'm hopefully buying a Dodge Dart soon and might (will) need it. Anything that can do work while I do other things is great, and it would be cool to have for bigger stuff! If you already have a spare, why buy another?
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Feb 5, 2022 17:50
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Now, now, plastic garbage cans are Saturns. Got another package of ‘Cruiser parts today, this is the best part of it:   Got the passenger front side of the Leaf basically all buttoned up today except for bleeding the new caliper. I also will need to replace the strut-to-knuckle bolts later because it turned out I need 6 of the nuts for those bolts rather than the 4 I ordered - it’s the same one-time-use nut on the front lower control arm bolt. The parts catalogs, of course, don’t properly reflect that. Side note, holy freaking crap working with brand new calipers is so much nicer. Those stock Nissan calipers were trash. Tomorrow I’m pulling the driver’s side back apart to do the new coil spring. I never tightened anything so that will HOPEFULLY be quick. If I can get the car on rubber again tomorrow I’ll get an alignment appointment and pull the truck in to load a pallet of parts for shipment south. We got the rest of the front axle stripped down, this is supposed to be my ‘new’ rear diff:  Hmm…   The knuckle seal on one side was dead and all that grease mingled with the gear lube. Unless gear lube + lithium grease damages bearings, I plan to run it. I’ll just flush it a couple times with cheap gear lube before putting in my good synthetic stuff.
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Feb 6, 2022 08:05
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may have starved the driveline side pinion bearing of lube. pull it and look at the race for scorching. That differential needs a date with a
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Feb 6, 2022 18:49
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Front diff on my Hilux has looked that way for about 400K kms, same with my mates 80 series- probably been like that for nearly 500K kms now and it hasnt hurt them at all. Seems to be missing a locker though...
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Feb 7, 2022 13:39
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It is definitely missing a locker. They both are  I am really happy with the rear diff out of the parts FJ60 so I think I’m going to use them front-front and rear-rear. So much for my ‘all new wear surfaces’ plan, but I don’t need to add any more uncertainty right now. For anyone not up to speed, the stock FJ62 diffs are geared with 4.11s, FJ60s came with 3.70. Because I’m switching to a transmission with less overdrive, .85 vs .75 in the automatic, I am making that back up in the differentials. I also have decently larger-than-stock tires, so with the 3.70s and H55F it should turn about 50rpm lower than stock at any given speed in overdrive, which is still about 137rpm more than current. I’m not 100% sold on the 3.70 gears, though, so I don’t want to blow a bunch of money before I decide that I’m happy. Once I’ve had some miles under the new transmission I’ll rebuild a set of diffs and add lockers 
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Feb 7, 2022 20:28
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Cleaning the windows and noticed this little 300,000 mile-old sticker: Toyota: Quality Stickers. Also this rear end in a top hat is rolling again: 
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Feb 8, 2022 05:47
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Somebody (taqueso?) suggested putting an aquarium heater in my e-tank, so I ordered a 300W heater from rich uncle Jeffrey. It arrived a couple days ago: I have it in the tank and it seems to be helping - the electrolysis system is consistently pulling 2x the amperage it did before being heated. The tank is not warm by any means but it’s considerably above ambient temperature. One really nice thing about electrolysis vs other methods of de-rusting is that the system is self-regulating. You can leave stuff in there and it just gets less rusty instead of dissolving. I left this driveshaft going for over two weeks:  I kept meaning to swap it for other parts but got distracted. No harm no foul, just a super-not-rusty shaft. I was actually worried that the steel would be pitted because of how rusty it was; instead it came out really clean. It does have a dent that concerns me, though:  Keep in mind that is the absolute worst angle I could come up with. You have to look for that dent. How much can a driveshaft handle before it gets really shaky? The other day while I was at the dealership I ordered some fresh light bulbs - I have the entire dash converted to LED *except* the turn signal indicators, which just wouldn’t work right with LED when I tried. The existing bulbs are original, believe it or not, so I figured spares were in order. This is what I have now:  I think that says Toshiba but I’m not sure. This is what came, using the same part number:  I know those bulbs will probably be enough to last the rest of my life but there’s just something missing without the classy logo. Today I also dropped a pallet full of random parts off at a freight company, having all this out of my shop really clears up some shelf (and floor) space. 
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Feb 12, 2022 08:30
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