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SiKboy posted:When it comes to the brush, the hairy bit goes in the paint, the bit without the hair on it is the bit you hold. Thats the main thing to remember. Try to avoid getting paint on the bit without the hair on it when you dip your hairy bits into your paint.
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Feb 8, 2022 22:42
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Pretty pleased I finally painted these guys, now I should get back to cursed city next.  https://imgur.com/a/LOWtFEw by.a.teammate fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 00:07
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I'm thinking about oil washes and it hit me, how am I supposed to varnish a mixed media miniature? Liquitex varnish for example states it can't be used with oil paint, so I would assume Vallejo would also be our of the question given its a water soluble acrylic medium as well.
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Feb 9, 2022 00:18
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The Demilich posted:I'm thinking about oil washes and it hit me, how am I supposed to varnish a mixed media miniature? I'm pretty sure you can use any old varnish on oils once they are cured. I've only ever used what I happened to have laying around on the minis that I've used oils on and never had any problems at all.
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Feb 9, 2022 00:21
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The Demilich posted:I'm thinking about oil washes and it hit me, how am I supposed to varnish a mixed media miniature? as far as I understand it in the context of miniature painting you're basically ok to go over oils - especially a wash - with acrylic varnishes and acrylics in general because they're such thin layers compared to an oil painting which can take months to fully cure vs. days for an oil wash.
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Feb 9, 2022 00:32
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Looks like as long as the acrylic varnish is permanent there should be no issues, but aside from that a polyurethane varnish seems to beat all. So Vallejo mecha varnish it is I guess! Quick question for true metallic metal painters, do you use a gloss or satin for your metals?
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Feb 9, 2022 00:52
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It’s a start!
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Feb 9, 2022 01:27
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Decided to take a break from painting one collectivized farm's worth of soviets and paint this handsome devil. Pretty pleased with how it all turned out. The bust was a stl file from a guy who goes by doses3d on various platforms.  
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Feb 9, 2022 01:27
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For those who do model assembly - I'm looking to use green stuff to fill in gaps between parts, but some of the models are complicated enough that I should realistically paint in parts before sticking them together. How do I reconcile the two? (ie. if I paint, then stick the model together - what stage does the fill come in?).
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Feb 9, 2022 01:32
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What model are you building which is simultaneously gappy enough to require copious gap filling and also large but intricate enough to require sub assembly
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Feb 9, 2022 01:48
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Eej posted:What model are you building which is simultaneously gappy enough to require copious gap filling and also large but intricate enough to require sub assembly Not really copious, but for quite a few that have arms or held items - do people prefer having the small lines between attachments show instead? In this case I'm referencing something like the AoS Putrid Blightkings or a Spoilpox Scrivener (https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Spoilpox-Scrivener-Herald-Of-Nurgle-2018) where I'm less confident I can get into the nooks unless I paint separately.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:34
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This is more Miniatures-Painting-prep than actual painting, but please add me to the list of people insane enough to attempt a whole Warmaster army at once (RIP to that other person doing the Dark Elf army) I've got them all based (went with non-beveled, 1.6mm thick laser cut), but only the back/side rows of troops so that I can actually snipe them with a brush.  Like this shot where I was testing placement - there's no way I'd be able to get to the middle stuff if they're glued. I'll probably sticky-tac the other half to some paint sticks or something to prime + batch paint.
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Feb 9, 2022 03:57
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Capri Sunrise posted:Not really copious, but for quite a few that have arms or held items - do people prefer having the small lines between attachments show instead? In this case I'm referencing something like the AoS Putrid Blightkings or a Spoilpox Scrivener (https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Spoilpox-Scrivener-Herald-Of-Nurgle-2018) where I'm less confident I can get into the nooks unless I paint separately. If I really wanted to do all that scribbling on the scroll then I'd probably paint that seperate but I see no reason why you wouldn't just paint the rest of it all together.
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Feb 9, 2022 04:26
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The Demilich posted:
Everything gets a matte varnish at the end, having different surface finishes looks weird. (Imo) Edit: the only exception being gemstones and glass, that gets a hand application of gloss after the matte.
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Feb 9, 2022 08:17
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Probably wrong thread but I wanted to lol into the void. In aus a store put up pre orders for the army painter speed paints. $8 au a pot while selling contrast at $9.20 au each. The real fun is the claimed rrp of $14 au per speed paint vs 11.50 rrp for contrast. The rrp has to be an error, but lol it's half the price of contrast guys!
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Feb 9, 2022 08:53
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by.a.teammate posted:Pretty pleased I finally painted these guys, now I should get back to cursed city next. Great stuff! I plan to paint mine up as Judges too, and even have a few third-party heads to make it more obvious but I'm not sure if I'll use them.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:22
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Just put on the Agrax Earthshade and man I really really feel happy. The experience has been so relaxing, so enjoyable, and seeing the reactions from my wife and sister, who know I have no artistic skill, being impressed with my dedication and patience has been wonderful. I feel like a bit of a goof, because I didn’t paint the gun with green before I did the earth shade, but eh first time and I’m sure it won’t be horrendous adding the green on later, and this is only the first units so the future ones will be fine.   Also is Corvus Black significantly different from Abbadon Black? In fact is it just a renaming? I mean Abbadon came with the Space Marines paint set. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 19:08
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Iirc corvus is a little more grey while abbadon is "BLACK"
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Feb 9, 2022 19:28
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Spanish Manlove posted:Iirc corvus is a little more grey while abbadon is "BLACK" It’s funny the tutorial uses CB when the paint set comes with AB. Though the tutorial is from 2020.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:32
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The only thing I'll use Abaddon black (or other 'pure' blacks) on is base rims. Otherwise I use Vallejo black-grey for my blacks.
Floppychop fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 19:40
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BaronVanAwesome posted:This is more Miniatures-Painting-prep than actual painting, but please add me to the list of people insane enough to attempt a whole Warmaster army at once (RIP to that other person doing the Dark Elf army)  Do yourself a HUGE favor and drill out a 5mm (3/16") hole and superglue a disc magnet in every base. You'll want it flush with the ground for best adhesion - the easiest thing there is to: 1. Drill all the way through each base 2. Line up all the bases on strips of painter's tape 3. Use the tape to hold a magnet in place in the hole while your superglue dries. The tape (should) keep you from accidently gluing the assembly to your table. You'll be able to store your entire army in a large cookie tin, and it's probably the only way to not have your printed resin spears snap off:  It's a big job, but you'll get there. And don't be afraid of overdosing contrast paints.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:42
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Just put on the Agrax Earthshade and man I really really feel happy. The experience has been so relaxing, so enjoyable, and seeing the reactions from my wife and sister, who know I have no artistic skill, being impressed with my dedication and patience has been wonderful. So Agrax Earthshade and all the other washes do concentrate in crevices but will also leave a thin layer on basically everything you put it on. This has the effect of reducing the colour saturation of your model so what a lot of people like to do afterwards is glaze on the original colour on top of the parts of the model that aren't shadowed. Glazing is basically adding enough water to your paint mix that it's transparent enough that you're only tinting the layers underneath rather than Colouring if that makes sense. Anyway I bring this up because you can easily paint over your Agrax layer to fix your gun and in fact most people do go back over it to bring out the brightness of spots that you didn't want to be as darkened.
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Feb 9, 2022 20:24
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Floppychop posted:The only thing I'll used Abaddon black (or other 'pure' blacks) on is base rims. Otherwise I use Vallejo black-grey for my blacks. I like black highlighted with black grey then dark sea green then dark sea grey for my neutral black recipe. I also do too many highlights.
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Feb 9, 2022 20:51
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moths posted:
As someone who did a full Ork and Skaven army recently also check your ranks and see what actually matters with regards to painting. I did like three stands trying to hit each shield with different colors and getting 3rd highlights on hands just for it to not even be seen when the first rank was glued down. Saved myself a ton of time and sanity just concentrating on the front rank when going hog on details.
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Feb 9, 2022 22:22
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Just put on the Agrax Earthshade and man I really really feel happy. The experience has been so relaxing, so enjoyable, and seeing the reactions from my wife and sister, who know I have no artistic skill, being impressed with my dedication and patience has been wonderful. Congrats! It's incredible what a wash can do to help you see all those details, and it really brings things to life. It can also help to see the darkest recesses because then you get an idea of where your highlights should be. Enjoy the feeling of accomplishment, most people don't even get this far with the hobby.
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Feb 10, 2022 01:35
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Springfield Fatts posted:As someone who did a full Ork and Skaven army recently also check your ranks and see what actually matters with regards to painting. Oh definitely this. Paint up your base colors and shade, then assemble everything before doing maximum detail. I have made that mistake myself. This is what that tape assembly line looks like:  It's the only time you want the runny glue! My buddy is using sheet magnet, and that might be preferable but i don't like the added thickness to the base.
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Feb 10, 2022 02:28
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Eej posted:So Agrax Earthshade and all the other washes do concentrate in crevices but will also leave a thin layer on basically everything you put it on. This has the effect of reducing the colour saturation of your model so what a lot of people like to do afterwards is glaze on the original colour on top of the parts of the model that aren't shadowed. Glazing is basically adding enough water to your paint mix that it's transparent enough that you're only tinting the layers underneath rather than Colouring if that makes sense. Yeah I was very happy with how it turned out in the end. I just wish I could paint those winged skulls, but I figure it will get better over time. Dreylad posted:Congrats! It's incredible what a wash can do to help you see all those details, and it really brings things to life. It can also help to see the darkest recesses because then you get an idea of where your highlights should be. Enjoy the feeling of accomplishment, most people don't even get this far with the hobby. One thing I was wondering, to anyone who might know, is how do you handle, oops didn't thin my brush and well it's a little globby (still getting used to painting).
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Feb 10, 2022 02:44
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Marshal Prolapse posted:One thing I was wondering, to anyone who might know, is how do you handle, oops didn't thin my brush and well it's a little globby (still getting used to painting). Definitely use a pallet, wet or dry. And it doesn't need to be a pallet, I've used cardboard, glossy cardboard, paper plates, plastic, anything. The important thing is to put the paint on it first, then a little water next to that, and mix them there. If you get too much water on your brush, put it flat on a paper napkin and it'll suck some water out but leave paint. It takes some practice, but the trick is to put the back of the bristles into the napkin and let capillary action draw it away. Anyway, here's some blurry dark elves in a cookie tin: 
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Feb 10, 2022 06:01
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Yeah that's why I recommend dabbing your brush on your paper towel after you pick up paint regardless of what you're doing. Takes care of too much water and too much paint on your brush!
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Feb 10, 2022 06:11
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Marshal Prolapse posted:One thing I was wondering, to anyone who might know, is how do you handle, oops didn't thin my brush and well it's a little globby (still getting used to painting). If you get a glob of paint on a model you can quickly fill a brush with water and then flood the area. Use an empty brush to remove the water again. Saved my rear end a couple of times when I knocked a model into my palette. Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 08:23
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You can also use a scrunch of toilet paper to pull water off a model. Let capillary action be your undo button.
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Feb 10, 2022 10:51
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Marshal Prolapse posted:It’s a start! Marshal Prolapse posted:Just put on the Agrax Earthshade and man I really really feel happy. The experience has been so relaxing, so enjoyable, and seeing the reactions from my wife and sister, who know I have no artistic skill, being impressed with my dedication and patience has been wonderful. Pretty good so far. The paint on the pants looked sufficiently thinned. Only a few dozen more guardsmen to go!
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Feb 10, 2022 14:17
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Thank you all for the excellent suggestions for getting rid of excess paint and all the other tips. One thing I’ve noticed is if you’re using a magnifier so you can make sure your painting spaces correctly and getting things is do not get hung up if it looks odd under magnification.
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Feb 10, 2022 15:17
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Yeah one thing to keep in mind, especially as you're painting stuff like Numerous Troops (so you know, like Guardsmen) is the "3 feet rule" which is that you're gonna spend most of your time looking at your army from 3 feet away so if it looks good from there then your job is done. You can save your effort and creative juices for bigger models like vehicles and characters.
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Feb 10, 2022 15:23
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moths posted:Anyway, here's some blurry dark elves in a cookie tin: Are those 3d-printed Warmaster minis on actual plastic bases? I'm specifically interested in the latter. Where do you get plastic WM bases? VVV: Thanks. I wasn't aware Renedra did Warmaster size. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 15:55
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I use the Renedra 20x40mm bases, which seem to be much easier to get in the UK than the US. Those are printed figures, yes.
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Feb 10, 2022 15:58
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Floppychop posted:The only thing I'll used Abaddon black (or other 'pure' blacks) on is base rims. Otherwise I use Vallejo black-grey for my blacks. To add to that, Vallejo's German Grey is an amazing Not Black when you need to paint Black. I think it's an almost 100% match with Citadel's Corvus Black.
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Feb 10, 2022 17:47
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Furism posted:To add to that, Vallejo's German Grey is an amazing Not Black when you need to paint Black. I think it's an almost 100% match with Citadel's Corvus Black. Necromancer’s Cloak from The Army Painter is also very good. Needs to be thinned a good bit, but I think it’s one of the better Army Painter paints.
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Feb 10, 2022 18:17
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Last minis I painted was 3rd edition of 40k, and during covid I got the itch to paint some minis! Please look at my toys. For the Khan!          I really like the Horus Heresy jump packs and helmets on the veterans / leader. Also wow, never take close up pictures of your minis, so many areas I missed or botched that I didn't see
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Feb 10, 2022 20:32
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TotalHell posted:Necromancer’s Cloak from The Army Painter is also very good. Needs to be thinned a good bit, but I think it’s one of the better Army Painter paints. I'm trying this exact paint right now. It seems a little bit too light to read as black for me, but I plan to douse it in nuln oil so I'll see how that works
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Feb 10, 2022 20:45
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