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On Toyotas/Lexus I know they have it as a safety 'feature' to turn off when you open the door. Kind of a pain in the rear end because you start it right back up again. On Hondas, it stays on when you open the door.
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Feb 10, 2022 19:57
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There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car.
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Feb 10, 2022 20:16
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My mom's Honda turns off when you touch the pedals. You are supposed to get in and just press the start button to switch into driving mode without having to turn the engine off and on. It's infuriating as I always step on the brake when starting a car.
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Feb 10, 2022 20:18
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Leperflesh posted:There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car. Yeah that's a good point. I wonder what would happen since they don't have the key fob? It's not like the car shuts off after it's 'x' feet away from a key. I'm guessing they can drive as long as they want until they turn it off?
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Feb 10, 2022 20:25
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Leperflesh posted:There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car. That's understandable and I guess with pushbutton it's not as much of an issue, but I tend to leave the car running when I get my mail since I'm standing 5 feet away. My '09 Camry didn't shut off automatically, though, it would just yell at you when you shut the door if you left it on.
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Feb 10, 2022 20:30
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nwin posted:Yeah that's a good point. I wonder what would happen since they don't have the key fob? It's not like the car shuts off after it's 'x' feet away from a key. I'm guessing they can drive as long as they want until they turn it off? I believe that's the case, yeah. Having the car shut off while driving would be a huge safety hazard, so even if they drive away from your house while you're inside with your fob, the car should keep running.
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Feb 10, 2022 20:36
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Leperflesh posted:There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car. This would be pretty drat hard to do since the car won't come out of Park without the key physically in the ignition. EDIT: Also wouldn't the same sensors that detect when a fob is in the car for push-button ignition cars work the same way?
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Feb 10, 2022 21:12
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Leperflesh posted:There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car. The engine should shut off if the key is not physically in the ignition and you attempt to take it out of park (or press the clutch).
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Feb 10, 2022 21:20
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Are there still new cars that have keyed ignitions? I thought basically everything had gone to push-button. I'm sure there's some redundancy to the "don't get stolen" features of these remote start systems, and also across different manufacturers.
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Feb 10, 2022 21:32
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I was looking for something in my garage and I found my parent’s manual for their (long gone) ‘89 Beretta. I started thumbing through it and found this section: Am I reading this wrong or are they actually suggesting you leave the ignition key in the car and as long as you take the door key with you you’re fine?
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Feb 10, 2022 22:16
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I was looking for something in my garage and I found my parent’s manual for their (long gone) ‘89 Beretta. I started thumbing through it and found this section: I think they’re talking about it like it’s a valet key.
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Feb 10, 2022 22:19
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nwin posted:I think they’re talking about it like it’s a valet key. Ohhhh that would make sense. I read attended lot as “lot with other cars” instead of literally “lot with an attendant”
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Feb 10, 2022 22:21
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Leperflesh posted:Are there still new cars that have keyed ignitions? I thought basically everything had gone to push-button. Ford is kind of a dick about it, Push button start is still a premium feature on many of their vehicles. I think the lower trim models of the Maverick, Ford F150 and other cars still use keys. My cousin got a 2019 F-150 XLT and it came with a regular key and I was very confused. I think with the Maverick you need the XLT premium or luxury package to get push button start.
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Feb 10, 2022 23:02
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I wonder if there's also a "don't run over yourself" safety aspect, but I can't quite figure out how that'd be related to opening doors and whatnot, so I'm still stuck on a combo of "don't be easier to steal" and "don't kill someone with exhaust fumes" as a possible add-on.
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Feb 11, 2022 00:09
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Leperflesh posted:I wonder if there's also a "don't run over yourself" safety aspect, but I can't quite figure out how that'd be related to opening doors and whatnot, so I'm still stuck on a combo of "don't be easier to steal" and "don't kill someone with exhaust fumes" as a possible add-on. The "standard" aftermarket remote starts I remember installing in the 90s/early 2000s were all triggered off of hitting the brake pedal. If you remote started and didn't put the key in and turn it before hitting the brakes it would kill the engine. I was never brave enough to put one in a manual (even through they had some kind of neutral detection thing that looked pretty sketch) so I'm not sure how that would have worked out or what you were supposed to trigger off of. I would assume the sketchy neutral detection device.
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Feb 11, 2022 00:33
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At least on my 99 Altima, it had a shift position switch on the manual transmission. Including neutral. I have no idea why it needed anything more than a reverse light switch, but the PCM was looking for 7 inputs from the position switch on the manual (every gear + neutral). Pretty expensive switch for what it was, and it mounted to the gearbox. Leperflesh posted:There is an extremely good reason for that safety feature: it prevents someone from walking up and driving away in your running car. GM doesn't actually turn anything in the car on with remote start, except for climate control. If you try to put it in gear without the fob in the car (or key in the ignition), it shuts down. totalnewbie posted:Concur with clear and hope. NTK is supposedly the OEM, though I don't know if they've been changed. The code never came back though.  And the air filter is newish (<5k miles on it).That one still looks a bit sluggish to me, but I have bigger issues to take care of at the moment (like the transmission letting the engine free rev for a moment then slam into 3rd on downshifts  ). With the car market the way it is, I'll probably just drop the coin on getting it rebuilt.Stupid AODE/4R75E There were CAN bus communications errors in multiple modules, when normally the only code in the car is "hood switch disconnected" (because, well, the P71 Crown Vics didn't have one), so I think something got wet and pulled a reference signal down. Just a guess though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 01:41
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Leperflesh posted:Are there still new cars that have keyed ignitions? I thought basically everything had gone to push-button. My company car, a 2019 Rogue, is key-only.
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Feb 11, 2022 04:18
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STR posted:NTK is supposedly the OEM, though I don't know if they've been changed. The code never came back though. You can tell the maker by the sensor body structure. Here are NTK's switching sensors: https://www.ngkntk.co.jp/english/product/sensors_plugs/zirconia_oxygen.html When I say filter, I mean the filter for the sensor itself. In the picture on the site I linked, for the sensor on the left, the filter(s) goes around the top of the sensor body. 4 holes I think? The sensor on the right is a newer design and its filter is in the center of the rubber grommet, between the wires. It can eventually get clogged by dirt or more commonly by fluids when there's a leak (like oil, etc., not water - it can handle water hitting it just fine). If the filter gets clogged, air can no longer pass between the outside and the inside air reference, so eventually the air inside ends up becoming deprived of oxygen and you end up with a sensor stuck lean situation because the reference is now "rich". Remember, the sensor measures relative O2, not absolute (but because your reference is typically always atmosphere, "relative" becomes pretty absolute.)
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Feb 11, 2022 09:25
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PainterofCrap posted:My company car, a 2019 Rogue, is key-only. My Tacoma a '21 model is key only as well.
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Feb 11, 2022 12:23
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Motronic posted:The "standard" aftermarket remote starts I remember installing in the 90s/early 2000s were all triggered off of hitting the brake pedal. If you remote started and didn't put the key in and turn it before hitting the brakes it would kill the engine. I've had a remote start on multiple vehicles with a manual transmission. It always worked like this: 1. Get to your parking spot. 2. Put the car in neutral. 3. Set the parking brake. 4. Press the remote start button while the engine is still running. Your feet must be off the clutch pedal and off the brake pedal. This means the shifter must be in neutral.* 5. Turn key to off/lock position and remove the key from the ignition. The engine keeps running under the remote start system's control. 6. Open the door and get out of the car. When the door shuts, the engine shuts off. Now the car is ready to be started remotely. If a door opens, the system will not allow remote starting. Someone may have put the shifter in gear while the door was open. All of these steps must be followed every time the user wants to use the remote start. The systems are pretty safe when installed correctly, but they are a pain in the rear end for retailers after the sale because customers need constant re-education about how it works and always jump to the conclusion that the system is not installed correctly or is broken. *It is also technically possible that you jumped out of the car while it was rolling or you got out of the car while the driven wheels are off the ground or on dyno rollers or something.
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Feb 11, 2022 17:17
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I have a very small business which anticipates the need for a cargo van in the near future. I'm quite taken with the idea of getting an electric van, specifically the e-transit and have this crazy idea of using the extra power outlets of the van to essentially refrigerate the cargo space (after adding my own insulation). I also know very little about buying vans. Is this feasible?
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Feb 11, 2022 17:57
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GoodluckJonathan posted:I have a very small business which anticipates the need for a cargo van in the near future. I'm quite taken with the idea of getting an electric van, specifically the e-transit and have this crazy idea of using the extra power outlets of the van to essentially refrigerate the cargo space (after adding my own insulation). I also know very little about buying vans. Is this feasible? It's certainly doable, but you'll need to design the whole system out first to get an estimate of the energy draw and whether you can afford the range reduction that will go with it. You'll certainly have to keep it plugged in when not driving it. The single largest energy consumer in your house is the refrigerator, so it's going to take a lot of juice to keep it going.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:03
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Powershift posted:It just occurred to me that you likely have drum brakes on the rear. It’s possible there’s something loose inside the drum or the backing plate is rusted/bent. It was actually a broken belt in the tire. And within hours of me changing it and parking it outside my house someone scraped it, knocked my loving mirror off, and drove off.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:08
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Hed posted:2011 Ford Edge (no hybrid), 130k miles. Hed posted:Yep it was the booster assembly #8 here in my case: Well my Edge seems to have a brake booster problem again--same symptoms as above. Fixed back in September with the new booster assembly. Yesterday I was leaving a parking lot and stopped at the T intersection under normal speed. There was some frozen slush on the road so the ABS engaged, everything seemed normal. Since then, same behavior as above, pedal is dead through most of its motion. My question is how in the world would an ABS engagement cause this? If the first time was going over a speed bump and now ABS, is this just a sucky replacement or is something seriously wrong with the booster design. I can't even think mechanically why this would be triggered in this way.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:46
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There's an air bubble inside the abs module I bet? I haven't done it myself but took to a goon mechanic and my Mazda apparently had a weird bleeding procedure or something, Idk. He tried replacing the booster first too, but that wasn't the problem.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:54
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Forneus Rex posted:It was actually a broken belt in the tire. And within hours of me changing it and parking it outside my house someone scraped it, knocked my loving mirror off, and drove off. Ain't this always how it goes? I remember when my friend and I spent all afternoon fixing his speedometer, only to have somebody back into us in a parking lot.
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Feb 11, 2022 19:05
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Safety Dance posted:Ain't this always how it goes? I remember when my friend and I spent all afternoon fixing his speedometer, only to have somebody back into us in a parking lot. This is how over it I am. 
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Feb 11, 2022 22:08
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Are all trailer hitches that have a 2” receiver a minimum of class 3? I recently bought a 2021.5 Mazda CX-5, and has the dealership install the OEM hitch. Considering the car is only rated to tow 2000lb I expected a class 1 hitch. But this has a 2” receiver. There’s no stickers or paperwork that gives me any information. I found it on a dealership’s parts page but it still no rating. The part number matches the work order. Part #: Hitch: 00CT-88-C57. Hitch Harness: 00CT-88-C57H and I’ve obviously tried googling the part numbers directly, but to no avail. Everything I google about OEM hitches for the CX5 say they have a 1.25” receiver. Apparently Mazda Canada and Mazda USA have different hitches. If this is a class 3 I know I can put at least 350lb on there safely. But it’d be nice to know the maximum, should I decide to get a carrier of some sort.
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Feb 12, 2022 21:02
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PainterofCrap posted:My company car, a 2019 Rogue, is key-only. My rental while my car is in the shop is a 2021 Rogue and it is still key only. Edit: also it sucks
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Feb 12, 2022 21:08
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tactlessbastard posted:My rental while my car is in the shop is a 2021 Rogue and it is still key only. FWIW I have found in the modern era, how much a car sucks to live with is often tied to trim level. Low trims with garbage manufacturers like Nissan will omit lots of stuff, nicer cabin materials, leather on steering wheel or seats, heated seats, safety tech including ACC. The poverty / rental spec trims can be punishing. It’s a pure profit play for non rental customers because they get you to spend $5k more for $100 more in materials that make the car livable. That’s every manufacturer too though, gotta pay to play and no such thing as free lunch. Sometimes with models like Rogue everything is gonna suck no matter what
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Feb 12, 2022 21:22
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Here's my stupid question: I dinged my car's door against the garage wall. There isn't any dent, but right at the edge of the door panel where it contacted the wall, a bit of paint is peeling off. I don't think it's down to the bare metal, since white primer is visible. It's barely visible, I'm just concerned that it'll eventually rust, or that friction from washing etc. will flake of more paint. Do I go to a shop or should I use one of these repair kits (they contain a cleaner, paint, clear coat, utensils)? It's Mazda Soul Red and I'm not very smart if that matters.
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Feb 12, 2022 23:20
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Lord Stimperor posted:Here's my stupid question: i'd just wipe it clean and hit it with a paint pen man
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Feb 12, 2022 23:31
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Lord Stimperor posted:Here's my stupid question: The factory paint pen is crap. The Dr. Colorchip kit is better, but you might want to wait until you have a bunch of little chips and get them all in one go.
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Feb 12, 2022 23:46
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Lord Stimperor posted:Here's my stupid question: This is super common especially on city cars where it's often tight against parking garage surfaces / pillars or curb lines and people / kids open doors into stuff. Not a big deal, touch up paint as mentioned should be fine, I haven't used Dr Colorchip but might snag some. I was a dumbass and scratched a side mirror against a garage pillar.  Especially in these trying times, I want my car to look as good as possible and last as long as possible so I don't have to even think about upgrading, so I'm particularly bummed about my scratches.
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Feb 12, 2022 23:52
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I'm in EU so I can't get Dr. Colorchip. Anything particular to watch out for? I'd be looking for a kit that's got the correct paint, and probably a dab of clear coat and something to clean/prep the paint.
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Feb 13, 2022 00:08
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I installed door edge guard strips to prevent this from happening to my Bonneville after I got it painted. The side benefit is that it covers any scratches or chips you may have. Not exactly the solution that you are seeking, but it's cheap, you can install it yourself, and it'll work, at least until you come up with something more suitable.
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Feb 13, 2022 00:23
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Small (dumb) question... How exactly do I measure for a new wheel cap? Just measure the hole that's in the middle of the wheel?
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Feb 13, 2022 04:10
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Inner Light posted:FWIW I have found in the modern era, how much a car sucks to live with is often tied to trim level. Low trims with garbage manufacturers like Nissan will omit lots of stuff, nicer cabin materials, leather on steering wheel or seats, heated seats, safety tech including ACC. The poverty / rental spec trims can be punishing. It’s a pure profit play for non rental customers because they get you to spend $5k more for $100 more in materials that make the car livable. That’s every manufacturer too though, gotta pay to play and no such thing as free lunch. To be fair it actually has a lot of gadgets, it just feels like it's barely moving and then when you touch the brakes you bounce off the steering wheel. OTOH 90% of my driving the last several years has been much smaller (Civic/Miata) or much larger (freightliner box truck /Chevy 3500) and maybe it's just in a weird middle zone that's like the uncanny valley for me. Also, it's purple. 
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Feb 13, 2022 04:24
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Lord Stimperor posted:I'm in EU so I can't get Dr. Colorchip. Anything particular to watch out for? I'd be looking for a kit that's got the correct paint, and probably a dab of clear coat and something to clean/prep the paint. What's your local chain auto parts store? E.g. if you needed a headlight bulb, rubber mats, a wiper blade and a trolley jack, where would you go? Your vehicle will have a paint code (mine's on the vin plate) Your local parts chain store will have a supplier of paint pens. If you have the paint code for your make &model, they can look it up on their computer, then they'll be like "yeah that's our stand of paint pens over there, you need Blue3062." Some (most?) paint pens these days have an abrasive paint prep thing built in.
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Feb 13, 2022 05:01
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Krime posted:Small (dumb) question... Are we talking a literal hub cap (covers the wheel bearing on a car that has the bearings in the rotor - not really a thing since the 70s-80s, but sometimes called a bearing cap), a cop-style cap that just covers the lugnuts and center of the wheel, or what most people refer to as a hubcap/wheel cover? If it's the last (I assume it is), look at your tire. There's going to be a number that starts with a P with a bunch of numbers, a slash (/), then "R" and 2 digits after that (let's say P225/50R17, though some tires might have, say, ZR instead of R). Let's say it says R17. That means you have a 17 inch wheel, thus you need a 17 inch wheel cover. The other stuff will be pretty specific to your vehicle. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Feb 13, 2022 |
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Feb 13, 2022 05:11
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