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Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Ive been repeating myself in this thread for like 12 years now, but Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey + a black wash is instant black with depth

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TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


Ristolaz posted:

I'm trying this exact paint right now. It seems a little bit too light to read as black for me, but I plan to douse it in nuln oil so I'll see how that works

That’s always how I feel when applying it, but against other colors on the model it reads as black quite well.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
My go-to Not-Black is Vallejo Model Color USN Sea Blue, very dark very cool gray that looks good when combined with a black wash.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Silhouette posted:

Ive been repeating myself in this thread for like 12 years now, but Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey + a black wash is instant black with depth

Seconding this. Basically how I start all my blacks.

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Whats a good black wash that's not Nuln Oil? Both of my local shops are sold out of it and have no ETA on restock.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
Army painter dark tone (the wash not the dip) is quite good.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Anyone got any suggestions for a warm dark grey? I want to highlight something that's currently Astrogranite -> Nuln Oil -> Devlan Mud (I had some lying around) -> thin Abaddon Black in recesses. I could use a neutral grey but I'd like to push it a little warmer in tone without going too overboard or making it look too brown.

EDIT: Just ended up mixing some Vallejo German Grey with some Vallejo US Field Drab

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Feb 12, 2022

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
VMC Cold Grey is ironically a very nice, warm grey. If that's still too dark, Sky Grey is lighter and also warm.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Being a fickle bastard as I am, I'm not liking how the gems on my own Warmaster army are turning out, and want to do something a little different. TBH, I kinda want to have opals for my gems, partially because I like the look, but also partially to tie in with the eventual Epic Eldar army I'm very, very slowly working on. There's only one really decent guide to doing opal-style gems that I've found, over on Goonhammer, and it just doesn't really work at such a small scale. My thought would be to try a colorshifting paint, like Turbo Dork's Mother Lode, but I'm not sure I want to spend money on more paint that's not going to have the effect I want, plus I know most colorshifting paints need to be airbrushed and I don't have a good set-up for airbrushing where I am, so I'm wondering if someone else has used similar paints, if they've been brushed on, and if so, how it's turned out.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Just reiterating that I had forgotten just how great this hobby can be with the simple investment of an airbrush setup. Right now I'm only using it to do primers, basecoats, and varnishes (all acrylic), and even just using it for only those things has made getting minis closer to being done so much easier and faster. :allears:

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Yup, some goons rib on airbrushes but they're super useful. I only use mine for priming and basecoat and that process alone has improved the experience for me. I literally never want to buy another rattle can of primer ever again.

BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.

Aniodia posted:

Being a fickle bastard as I am, I'm not liking how the gems on my own Warmaster army are turning out, and want to do something a little different. TBH, I kinda want to have opals for my gems, partially because I like the look, but also partially to tie in with the eventual Epic Eldar army I'm very, very slowly working on. There's only one really decent guide to doing opal-style gems that I've found, over on Goonhammer, and it just doesn't really work at such a small scale. My thought would be to try a colorshifting paint, like Turbo Dork's Mother Lode, but I'm not sure I want to spend money on more paint that's not going to have the effect I want, plus I know most colorshifting paints need to be airbrushed and I don't have a good set-up for airbrushing where I am, so I'm wondering if someone else has used similar paints, if they've been brushed on, and if so, how it's turned out.

Please post your conclusions, I'm wondering how I'm gonna do my Warmaster high elves myself gem-wize

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space
Anasta Malkorion, Vampire Lord for my Hyshian Gravelords





Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Skails posted:

Anasta Malkorion, Vampire Lord for my Hyshian Gravelords







Fantastic. Really love that tarnished metal.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

BaronVanAwesome posted:

Please post your conclusions, I'm wondering how I'm gonna do my Warmaster high elves myself gem-wize

Funny you mention that, because I also have a high elf army. :v:

But yeah, I'll ask around, maybe even try something myself, and post pics. I will say that I'd tried some basic-rear end white metallic and color shift paint from my local Michael's, and while the white did have that metallic shine, the color shift paint didn't work. May just have to spring for the Turbo Dork stuff anyway.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Does anyone have any suggestions on a primer spray color for a Valkyrie and Leman Russ tank? I currently have a can of chaos black.

BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Does anyone have any suggestions on a primer spray color for a Valkyrie and Leman Russ tank? I currently have a can of chaos black.

I don't have a suggestion other than "whatever looks cool", but if you're doing multiple tanks:

Consider using masking tape to make some cool patterns or block off certain sections so that all your vehicles don't look identical. This can even be just sponsons/turret

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Adding some distinguishing features to vehicles (army permitting) is a cool and good thing. I did that to my Death Guard tanks and it was a fun process. I basically picked different panels to be white and then added some nurglings to two of them.



Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Sydney Bottocks posted:

Just reiterating that I had forgotten just how great this hobby can be with the simple investment of an airbrush setup. Right now I'm only using it to do primers, basecoats, and varnishes (all acrylic), and even just using it for only those things has made getting minis closer to being done so much easier and faster. :allears:

An Airbrush is the single biggest cost to benefit upgrade you can make for miniature wargaming. Welcome, friend :unsmith:

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Aniodia posted:

Being a fickle bastard as I am, I'm not liking how the gems on my own Warmaster army are turning out, and want to do something a little different. TBH, I kinda want to have opals for my gems, partially because I like the look, but also partially to tie in with the eventual Epic Eldar army I'm very, very slowly working on. There's only one really decent guide to doing opal-style gems that I've found, over on Goonhammer, and it just doesn't really work at such a small scale. My thought would be to try a colorshifting paint, like Turbo Dork's Mother Lode, but I'm not sure I want to spend money on more paint that's not going to have the effect I want, plus I know most colorshifting paints need to be airbrushed and I don't have a good set-up for airbrushing where I am, so I'm wondering if someone else has used similar paints, if they've been brushed on, and if so, how it's turned out.

I have all the vallejo color shifting paints, when I was trying to come up with a color scheme for my Necrons i did an experiment by painting each color onto a figure to see which I liked. They all looked like poo poo. Those paints really need large flat surfaces to get the effect to work.

BUT

I got a couple colors of Turbodork recently and just for fun I applied some with a brush to the eyes and instruments on some Cantina Band Jizz musician minis I had laying around.

I think Turbo Dork Blue Raspberry will give you the effect you want even brushed on. This pic doesn't do a very good job of showing it, but in person the one on the left looks very much like bluish opal.



Left to right - Blue Raspberry, Prism Power, Ground is Lava

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I was wondering how I'd do my Eldar soulstones and Turbodork paints seem like a great idea to try out now that my FLGS stocks them. Thanks for the idea!

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
I'm using Turbodork 3d Glasses brushed on over silver for the armor on my cow elves and am pretty happy with the look. Would probably work well on gems too with slightly different application.

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Night Danger Moose posted:

Whats a good black wash that's not Nuln Oil? Both of my local shops are sold out of it and have no ETA on restock.

Basilicanum Grey thinned

Revelation 2-13
May 13, 2010

Pillbug
My go-to for all gems and stuff these days are; 1) shiniest silver I can find with talassar blue contrast over it. 2) shiniest gold with blood angels red contrast over it. That’s for blue and red gems obviously. It’s extremely simple and looks very good imo. I actually prefer the way they look to the old gem style gradient with sparkle in opposite corner, and it takes something like 1/5 of the time. Add gloss varnish if necessary.

I’m not sure how I’d do an opal though. A lighter blue contrast over silver? An ink? One of the reasons it works as well as it does with talassar blue and blood angels red is the combination of an extremely saturated color with a high degree of transparency,

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?
Can someone explain to me what the Warlord Games Rapid Deployment Fast Paint system is? Are they like the new hotness Army Painter Speed Paint/GW Contrast, or just normal paints with a snappy name? Also, what colour from that set would you paint their skin - there doesn't appear to be a separate colour for it.


Not that it matters much right now, as everyone seems to be sold out of both SpeedPaint AND the Warlord British Rapid Deployment Fast Paint box.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


god White Scar is such a dogshit paint, I think I've ruined a paintjob just by using it

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Comstar posted:

Can someone explain to me what the Warlord Games Rapid Deployment Fast Paint system is? Are they like the new hotness Army Painter Speed Paint/GW Contrast, or just normal paints with a snappy name? Also, what colour from that set would you paint their skin - there doesn't appear to be a separate colour for it.


Not that it matters much right now, as everyone seems to be sold out of both SpeedPaint AND the Warlord British Rapid Deployment Fast Paint box.

It seems it is just a regular paint set bundled with dip wash.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Comstar posted:

Can someone explain to me what the Warlord Games Rapid Deployment Fast Paint system is? Are they like the new hotness Army Painter Speed Paint/GW Contrast, or just normal paints with a snappy name? Also, what colour from that set would you paint their skin - there doesn't appear to be a separate colour for it.


Not that it matters much right now, as everyone seems to be sold out of both SpeedPaint AND the Warlord British Rapid Deployment Fast Paint box.

Seeing how the Warlord boxes include the AP stain in a can, I'd assume that they're normal paints, not speedpaints.

Speedpaints are very new BTW (slated for mid-Feb), so it's not that they're sold out, they probably haven't been released yet.



Speaking about AP Speedpaints, I know that quite a few youtubers and such received promo sets to review. Has anyone here had actual experience with those paints? I have a few specific questions.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Comstar posted:

Can someone explain to me what the Warlord Games Rapid Deployment Fast Paint system is? Are they like the new hotness Army Painter Speed Paint/GW Contrast, or just normal paints with a snappy name? Also, what colour from that set would you paint their skin - there doesn't appear to be a separate colour for it.

After a quick rummage through their site, my guess would be that they want you to buy both their Core paint set, which includes a Caucasian skin tone paint, as well as the "Rapid Deployment Fast Paint" set of the army of your choice. As others have said, they're not Contrast/Speedpaint sets but just regular paint sets with a small can of their "dip" sold along with it. I'm guessing the idea is you apply the selected colors, dip the figure, wait until it's dry, and then highlight as desired before basing the mini however you choose. Not award-winning paint jobs, but certainly suitable for gaming.

Personally I'd avoid grabbing this as the "dip" is basically furniture lacquer/sealant, and you'll need to shake off the excess somehow which is very messy (and you'll need mineral spirits or some other toxic chemical to clean up any messes that got where you didn't want them to). Instead I'd just recommend getting their Quickshades in the dropper bottles, along with the Quickshade mixing medium, and just slop that on your minis for the desired shading effect. Cleans up with water just like any other acrylic paint, far less mess and hassle.

Also I think the Warlord paints are just rebranded Army Painter paints anyways, so you could probably just find them under their original names. Probably be far easier when looking up their Vallejo or Citadel equivalents on a paint conversion chart.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
Finally got around to take some better pics of my duck adventurers, getting ready to rid the world of evil:











The idea is to launch the Kickstarter on Tuesday, but you can already check out the preview page and signed up if you're interested in getting your own beaked crew.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/farflungfigures/the-silver-feather-adventure-guild

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

god White Scar is such a dogshit paint, I think I've ruined a paintjob just by using it

Monument hobbies Bold Titanium White is where it’s at.

Guzwar
Feb 21, 2006
Everything's coming up Milhouse!

Painted up some old minis that had been primed for almost twenty years but were left in a box because I didn't think I could ever do a good enough job on them.

Warhammer Fantasy Night Goblins






Reaper Eldritch Demon




Spinny vid.

Guzwar fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Feb 14, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

When you guys are airbrushing, how often do you have to clean the tip?

I tried again, making sure to do the actions online to reduce dry tip (bring forward before releasing) and thinning down more (used flow-aid and airbrush flow aid products on the stylrenz white primer) and even with spraying a model down (or half) and then stopping, wiping off the needle tip I was having to unclog the end of the "nozzle cap" almost every attempt. Like, it was so bad I would clean it, spray for maybe 20-30 seconds of spray, and it would be clogged again, and I'd have to spend 90 seconds cleaning it. Pretty annoying

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

GreenBuckanneer posted:

When you guys are airbrushing, how often do you have to clean the tip?

I tried again, making sure to do the actions online to reduce dry tip (bring forward before releasing) and thinning down more (used flow-aid and airbrush flow aid products on the stylrenz white primer) and even with spraying a model down (or half) and then stopping, wiping off the needle tip I was having to unclog the end of the "nozzle cap" almost every attempt. Like, it was so bad I would clean it, spray for maybe 20-30 seconds of spray, and it would be clogged again, and I'd have to spend 90 seconds cleaning it. Pretty annoying

Something is screwy with your airbrush. I'm still an airbrush newbie, but I have a "cheap" brush in the Iwata Neo, and I primed and zenithaled the entire Necron Worldscour Legion box in one sitting, with only a quick dump and rise cleaning between the black primer and the ink.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Lumpy posted:

Something is screwy with your airbrush. I'm still an airbrush newbie, but I have a "cheap" brush in the Iwata Neo, and I primed and zenithaled the entire Necron Worldscour Legion box in one sitting, with only a quick dump and rise cleaning between the black primer and the ink.

I'm wondering if the needle is just too small for the paint being used, but I can't tell you what mm needle is currently in there.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Are you keeping it pressed down for air the entire time when you stop the flow of paint? If you stop the air before you stop the paint flow you'll end up flooding the brush with paint that isn't being shot out.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Eej posted:

Are you keeping it pressed down for air the entire time when you stop the flow of paint? If you stop the air before you stop the paint flow you'll end up flooding the brush with paint that isn't being shot out.

I'm wondering if I hosed up the insides with dried paint in the needle by messing up the pressure release? I can't promise I didn't release the pressure properly every time, it's kind of awkward doing that 4 point manuver (fingertip is still sore)

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'm wondering if I hosed up the insides with dried paint in the needle by messing up the pressure release? I can't promise I didn't release the pressure properly every time, it's kind of awkward doing that 4 point manuver (fingertip is still sore)

It's sounding like there's something fucky going on.

White is the worst paint for airbrushing because its pigment is so dense, but flow improver should pretty much fix that anyway.

If I'm airbrushing with a .4 needle, I can airbrush for literally an hour+ without getting dry tip thanks to flow improver, so perhaps there's something screwy with the internals. I'd give it a deep clean and go again.

Also, how's the stynelrez primer? Was caked in dust when you bought it? Does this clogging happen with other paints?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

I mixed up a little bottle that has about 50% distilled water, 40% Liquitex Slow-Dri, and about 10% flow improver (I think the brand was Galeria, it's not an airbrush-specific brand), and when I've used that to thin paints for airbrushing I hardly ever get "dry tip" and I can usually blast out the paint without having to even clean it off at the end.

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AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Finished my first Bladguard for the Deathwatch today.

He's from those nerds the Tome Keepers!



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