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Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Time to start on the rear end of the Leaf.



:derp:

Got one side down this far:



I’m once again stumped about getting the bearings. I can’t clamp the knuckle thing in my vise without removing it, but I can’t do that without disconnecting the parking brake.

This is what the back of that knuckle should look like:



Thanks to my good friend galvanic corrosion, this is what mine looks like:



gently caress you Nissan. Aluminium in direct contact with steel down by the road - some engineers need a refresher course with a battery charger and nipple clamps.

Hit my shop curfew but still felt productive so decided to do a fun project in the garage - swap the rear FJ62 speakers for new:



The only catch in this process is that I had to cut the tabs off the new speakers, so no warranty for me. Otherwise they even plugged right into the factory wiring and fit behind the factory grilles:



As I sit here ‘testing’ the new speakers, I’m realizing that now I need to do speakers in the Leaf too. Dammit.

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SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
You sure those jackstands can handle that weight


Advent Horizon posted:

As I sit here ‘testing’ the new speakers, I’m realizing that now I need to do speakers in the Leaf too. Dammit.
Part of why I'm dragging my feet on replacing the blown speaker in one of my cars, then I'll have to get new speakers for everything.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Spent a while this morning surfing the internet and holding a heat gun to the rear knuckle…



Once it got good and hot I sprayed a bunch of Aerokroil around the bearing and then upside-down canned air into the bearing itself in an attempt to break it free by thermal constriction. It did not work.

All my banging did open up other parts, though:



Time to fire up the parts cannon again. I’m replacing everything out back now. Knuckles, bearings, calipers, rotors, parking brake cables, shocks - everything. gently caress this, I am not playing around. I need to get the car to an alignment appointment Wednesday so I’m going to put it back together with the old bearings and run it as-is until the new parts arrive.

Erica worked on seat upholstery today; she’s using part of an old mattress for structural foam in an attempt to repair 2 of the 5 seat bottoms we have (recall that Doc killed the 6th). Mattress structural support foam is actually really similar in density to the seat bottom.




This is the passenger’s seat out of the FJ60 we parted out. The plan was to experiment with this seat, which we assumed to be dead and disgusting, but it actually cleaned up really nicely. It’s still an experiment but I would put good odds that we end up using it.

Once the foam is all the correct shape again the plan is to add a thin layer of memory foam to top it all up, plus add seat heaters. The ‘old’ (it’s actually a few months newer) FJ62 has good fabric so that’s what we’re going to use.

I need a SPST switch in the FJ62, and I’ve been debating what to use for a while. I have a couple options from the FJ60 that will fit a blank to the left of the steering wheel:



The one on the left is a really nice, lit, push-button switch. The one on the right is an unlit rocker. I would prefer the left but that would require a lot of wiring plus a relay to do what I need, and I really don’t feel like figuring all that out under the dash right now. I chipped the color out of the rear heater switch and filled it with two part epoxy; now I’m waiting to sand it down and maybe give it a fresh coating of black model paint.



I may relabel the defrost switch at a future date and figure out the wiring, we shall see if I get motivated and annoyed enough with the rocker. If not, those defrost switches sell for A HUNDRED FREAKING DOLLARS.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


I can’t remember the last time I had a good eBay buying experience. The seller canceled my Leaf rear knuckle order because they didn’t want to ship to Alaska. The parts would easily fit in a USPS Flat Rate box. :sigh:

Next cheapest seller is 2x the price, so the recent parts cannon firing is up to $550. I’m doubling the car’s value at this point.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Want to use one of lower 48 guys as a re-shipper?

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


You’re not the first to offer, but thank you.

We have a few options for that (my wife will be visiting family in SoCal next week) that are usually further up the list than internet strangers - I’m currently trying to convince a friend to pick me up a mattress from IKEA :haw:

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


I got looking at the wiring harness for the seat heater kit…



That small red wire above the 0.5mm^2 wire? That’s the main power wire - no gauge marked. I’m going to completely toss these harnesses. That means the seats won’t be heated before our road trip, but I’d rather my butt not be warm because it’s on fire.

Tomorrow morning I have an alignment appointment for the Leaf; that means I had to get the rear end put back together with old parts. This is the pile of crap that came out from banging on the knuckle/hub trying to get the passenger rear wheel bearing out:



I had to swap two reused bolts on the front end for new; I would have put it together correctly to start but I needed new lock nuts. This is how far under the front end the jack point is:



That’s a Daytona Super Duty jack - the jack point is 4 feet back from the bumper. Thanks, Nissan, real convenient jack point you engineered.

Front end is now DONE except for the alignment. That means the shop is currently empty!



:woop:

I have so much to clean up in there tomorrow it’s not even funny.

Once the shop is clean the FJ62 comes in for the rear axle rebuild and regearing. I’m doing that first so I can get the speedometer calibration numbers; hopefully by the time I’m done with that the new Leaf rear end parts will arrive.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry




:neckbeard:

Now I can start whittling down this pallet of parts.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
It's in! Time to get wrenching.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


I just got a phone call about some crossmember mounting brackets from a shop in Everett, WA - “Uh, we usually ship UPS but this says it would be $150 to send a 5 pound package to Alaska - does that seem accurate to you?”

Yes it does, which is why I don’t normally ship things via UPS.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Yesterday I took my salvaged FJ60 crossmember over to a friend’s house to have him patch a couple rust pinholes from where water got in and had no way to drain out. He found just a bit more weak metal than I expected:



Thankfully the bottom isn’t really load bearing, it’s mostly just bracing/boxing. I’m going to grind it pretty tomorrow during daylight.

Replacement (used) Leaf rear knuckles arrived today, but the backing plates got completely effed in shipping:



I’m not sure if I want to raise that with ebay or not. I definitely need new backing plates now, and that’s probably another $75 including shipping, but also I’m not sure how you would ship these chunks without this happening.

I think I figured out my FJ62 dashcam wiring problem. Some cameras have a much smaller-than-RCA plug, which should fit out through the existing tailgate grommet & loom. But how to get the wire into the tailgate?



That divot goes against a gasket against the tailgate. I should be able to run the wire in that spot with some hot glue for a grommet and from there it’s easy peasy. I hit it with some zinc primer to keep the metal as clean as possible.

The Mazda has been having problems with the oil filter anti-drain-back valve. The head starves for oil on startup any time is sits for a week, which is most of the time. I was running Purolator, currently Wix, and now I want to find something with a better valve if possible. I ordered a small selection of filters to cut open and see which will work best.

Tonight’s matchup is Wix vs Bosch:



The Bosch is winning on almost all counts at first glance. The only thing I like better about the Wix is the coil spring, but I’m honestly not sure how big of a deal that is.

The difference in filter medium is striking:



The Wix is sloppy, the pleats are shallower, and there are way less of them. There almost appears to be more effort put into the bypass (not shown) than the actual filter medium.



The Bosch also wins on the valve. Much more pliable rubber and it has a dedicated sealing surface on the base of the filter (you can see it in the first picture as a ring on the base). The Wix rubber is just there, basically.

I believe the Denso I ordered should be here tomorrow so the next duel will be Bosch vs Denso.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

If my experience with the Denso filters for the landcruiser is anything, it will blow anything else out of the water. The genuine Denso filters for the cruiser contain nearly 80% MORE filter material by surface area than a Donaldson or Baldwin!

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Advent Horizon posted:


The Wix is sloppy, the pleats are shallower, and there are way less of them. There almost appears to be more effort put into the bypass (not shown) than the actual filter medium.

That's a pretty massive difference. I assumed the Bosch would be better but didn't expect that much more material.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
That’s pretty crazy. I was about to order Wix for my turbo diesel Delica but if I can find a Bosch compatible totally going with them.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Wow. Just lost all respect for Wix after seeing how little filter media there is.

Did you send this over to the BITOG forums yet?

e: just fell down the rabbit hole over there, looks like Wix got bought out a few years ago and is no longer nearly as good as they used to be. Also looks like the OEM filters I've been using on the Matrix are crap. :sigh: I was already planning on changing the filter before the oil anyway (it has Mobil 1 Annual Protection in it, only has 2k miles since July), guess I'm changing the filter tomorrow.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Feb 20, 2022

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


The YZZF1 is crap? That’s news to me.

There are a LOT of counterfeit Toyota filters. I only get them from the dealership. I haven’t ever heard of issues with filters purchased from a dealer but it seems like the people buying from eBay/Walmart do.

I could probably get and slice open a YZZF1/YZZF2 filter tomorrow morning if you want to see the guts.

4WD is currently FWD:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Lending a whole new meaning to the term "open differential" there

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Advent Horizon posted:

The YZZF1 is crap? That’s news to me.

There are a LOT of counterfeit Toyota filters. I only get them from the dealership. I haven’t ever heard of issues with filters purchased from a dealer but it seems like the people buying from eBay/Walmart do.

I could probably get and slice open a YZZF1/YZZF2 filter tomorrow morning if you want to see the guts.

4WD is currently FWD:



Amsoil supposedly did a comparison, and the specific Toyota filter they tested came out pretty crappy in terms of filtration (fake edit, finally found the thread again.. it's the YZZF2)

The Motorcraft FL820S I generally run on the Vic stacks up pretty well for the price in that comparison (typically $4 on Amazon or at Walmart; Walmart has been OOS for a few months now though, so Lord Bezos has a few on the way for me). The Toyota filters (also from Walmart) have so far been sealed in a Toyota box with a Toyota holographic sticker on them. :shrug:

I mean... Toyota, particularly the Corolla and Camry, are well known for running forever.. and that's the filter they used for drat near 40 years on them, so obviously they did something right. I was planning on changing the filter on the Matrix 6 months into this oil run, and I'm at 7 months, so meh, it's only $1 more for a Fram Tough Guard at this point. It gets driven so little that it's probably overkill to even bother worrying about what filter it gets; it sees 5-6k miles a year, since new, and before I got my hands on it, it got lube shop oil changes every 3-4 months. Despite leaking a bit from the timing cover, it doesn't need topping off between 1-2x/year oil changes (it's usually a little above the add mark by the time it gets changed).

I've been under the valve cover before and it's... cleanish. Some varnish, but since it's always had whatever bulk oil the lube shop had at the time, that's to be expected. It's been running Mobil 1 for almost 4 years now, I'll be moving the Vic over to it once I finish off the store brand synthetic blend I had stocked up on from my last workplace.

kastein posted:

Lending a whole new meaning to the term "open differential" there

Just needs a wedding ring. :v:

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Feb 20, 2022

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Honestly I wouldn’t trust the Walmart Toyota filters. When I was looking into Land Cruiser filters a while back it seemed like the folks that bought Walmart or eBay filters were the ones having problems. Meanwhile I left a dealer-purchased YZZD3 out for a month trying to drain it but the filter was still full when I cut it open.

Had to call it a night outside so did some switch work:

GEEKABALL
May 30, 2011

Throw out your hands!!
Stick out your tush!!
Hands on your hips
Give them a push!!
Fun Shoe

Advent Horizon posted:

Honestly I wouldn’t trust the Walmart Toyota filters. When I was looking into Land Cruiser filters a while back it seemed like the folks that bought Walmart or eBay filters were the ones having problems. Meanwhile I left a dealer-purchased YZZD3 out for a month trying to drain it but the filter was still full when I cut it open.

Had to call it a night outside so did some switch work:



This is fantastic.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I keep a bunch of the Toyota yzz filters at home just switched to a longer one I had on hand for my 2jz as I reasoned why not more filter capacity. Seems good. I run Mobil 1 in it just because

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Wow. Just lost all respect for Wix after seeing how little filter media there is.

Did you send this over to the BITOG forums yet?

e: just fell down the rabbit hole over there, looks like Wix got bought out a few years ago and is no longer nearly as good as they used to be.

Well, that’s disappointing.
I’ve been using Wix for years. Guess I’ll change to Bosch.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
Ugh, and I just ordered a handful of Wix filters for the Subarus. Maybe I'll switch to Denso when these are gone.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The Toyota filters referenced above are made by Denso.

Looks like I'm doing Fram Tough Guard or Ultra Guard on the Matrix from now on, and continuing Motorcraft on the Ferd, but the Ferd sees 3 oil changes a year vs 1 on the Matrix.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?
Not all filters from a brand are identical. I've got a case of Wix filters with visible media and they're fine. My Jeep took exposed-media filters, and they were fine. If you're curious what you've got, sacrifice one.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
That's not really even enough. Filter brands change their construction regularly.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





sharkytm posted:

That's not really even enough. Filter brands change their construction regularly.

This, unfortunately. I still prefer the actual process of changing a spin-on filter instead of a replacable-element filter, but at least I can see that every ACDelco filter I buy for the Canyon looks exactly like the ones I've bought before.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


sharkytm posted:

That's not really even enough. Filter brands change their construction regularly.

That’s why I bought a bunch to slice open for the truck - pick a brand and buy enough for years and years so I don’t have to think about it again for this vehicle.

I picked up a Fram Tough Guard at Home Depot today and also sacrificed one of my Land Cruiser filters:



Fram is actually the most expensive filter I’ve cut open thus far. Also note that the Toyota/Denso filter is a different size while the Fram would be the same as the others I’ve shown.

The two are remarkably similar in design, but the Denso is put together much better. No lovely stamping.



The Denso ABV seems to be both more pliable and more durable. It is also a tight seal, even dry. All the other filters have had the ABV fall out upon disassembly; the Denso is a nice tight fit.

The ABV of the Fram does have one thing that concerns me. There were 4 dimples in the base casting that line up right along the ABV:



It sure seems like that would affect the seal.

The Denso has a different filter medium than the others; it feels a lot like my Denso washable air filter element.

Of the filters so far (the Mazda’s Denso hasn’t shown up yet), I would rank them:

1. Toyota/Denso - that Nice ABV puts it in the lead
2. Bosch - not far behind
3. Fram
4. Wix

I’m not sure if the photos before were clear, but the Wix quality control is atrocious:

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


This is my thread and I can post three times a day if I want to! :colbert:

We’ve noticed that the front end locks up a lot when braking on ice; this is obviously less than desirable. I happened to stumble across a post about a ‘load sensing proportioning valve’, and it turns out the FJ62 has a sort of mechanical rear ABS, where it can sense hard braking and reduces pressure to the rear brakes so they don’t lock up.

The problem with this system is it depends on vehicle height - it assumes that if the rear lifts it is because of hard braking. So what happens if, say, you install 3” lift springs? You disable the rear brakes.

The solution is a spacer underneath where the control rod mounts to the axle. Unfortunately nobody makes such a spacer; everyone is left to fend for themselves. Some people even use an electrical junction box.

I went simple; 3” pipe nipples and longer bolts:



There shouldn’t be too much load on it; I may have a friend fab up a 3” box or 3D print something. For now this is at least a good experiment.

A friend just picked up his car from southern California; he made a stop at Hazard Fraught Tools for me on his way. Now I finally have a parts washer :dance:



I don’t know why I thought this would be less splashy than it is. I’ve already ordered a brush, heater, and all the Simple Green Industrial Uncle Jeff would let me.

My friend also picked me up a much more useful transmission jack and it arrived just in time to do a trial run:



Holy crap this is so much easier than heaving - jack to height then tilt into place. I wasn’t even under the ‘cruiser when I put the new diff back in - I was off to the side, daintily turning the knobs and not destroying my back.

Edit: Erica got one seat done-ish:



It actually looks really drat good in person. A layer of memory foam will hopefully make all the seats really comfortable; the area without blue memory foam is where the seat heater will go. The bottom has also been reinforced with canvas to keep the base foam together longer.

Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Feb 21, 2022

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Wow the inside between that Denso filter for the mazda is NOTHING like what the denso filter (Factory Toyota- That might be a difference?) for the Landcruiser diesels are like.

Crack one of those open and its separated into two halves- a full flow and a bypass section:

Top-


and Bottom-


That bottom winding is close to 5 meters long!

For comparison sake, this is the Donaldson replacement for the genuine:



Theres probably a reason the genuine filters are close to $50 a pop! But that could also be Australia tax. Its also the reason why those filters are black and oil soaked rather than nice and clean- I wasnt going to cut open hundreds of bucks worth of filters to compare em without running them first!

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Ferremit posted:

Wow the inside between that Denso filter for the mazda is NOTHING like what the denso filter (Factory Toyota- That might be a difference?) for the Landcruiser diesels are like.

That Denso is for my Land Cruisers, the one to fit the Mazda hasn’t arrived yet.

Wow, your filters are a lot different. Interesting that the diesel filters are so different, maybe because they soot up oil faster?

If there were a better gasoline-engine Denso anywhere worldwide I would have ordered it. I only need to do annual oil changes so once a year fancy filters aren’t a big deal.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Double check that Fram's part number on the can itself; I'm pretty sure that's an Extra Guard (the cheapest retail filter they sell). Tough Guard should have a silver or grey can except for the very first ones from the 90s (which wouldn't have that rubberized grip). If it's a PH that was in a XG box, someone probably swapped filters between boxes to get the XG for the PH price. I've seen a lot of wrong filters at Walmart when I'm buying filters; I always open the box to make sure the correct filter is in there, if it's not sealed.

What's the easiest way to cut them open? I'm tempted to cut open the (used) Toyota filter I have. Obviously can't measure filtration efficiency, but I can at least see what the build quality is like on the Walmart version.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Feb 21, 2022

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


You are correct, it is an Extra Guard; I mis-typed. Home Depot only carries the Extra Guard.

I sprung for a filter cutter a while ago. It’s super easy, but you could do the same thing with a pipe cutter if the filter were small enough.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'll likely invest in one - the Vic had some... concerning... stuff with the last oil change. I still have the filter, curious to see what's in there. Really hoping it's only making GBS threads out the timing chain guides and not something worse. :ohdear: I ran that oil a bit longer than I wanted to (about 6k) - I don't like to go that long unless I'm on name brand full synthetic, and I've been running a store brand blend in it (made by Warren, so not horrible oil, just not great).

The Extra Guard is what gave Fram a bad name to begin with - it used to be terrible, I think at one point they didn't even have an ADBV? These days it's a passable filter so long as you do <5k oil changes, but they're not great. At least they have a silicone ADBV now.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Feb 22, 2022

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


I have more fuel for the Wix fire!

Today in the parts store I noticed that their Wix filters were made in China, while the one from RockAuto was of Mexican manufacture. I bought one (at double the price of the next-most-expensive Fram) to see the differences.

In all the pictures, China is on the left and Mexico on the right:



In short, the Chinese filter is better in every way. The anti-drain-back valve seals FAR better, almost on par with the Denso.

The inside is different as well:



So, what about the manufacture dates?



The Chinese filter has been sitting on a shelf since June 2019, the Mexican filter was made in October 2021. This definitely tracks with making the filters cheaper and riding off their reputation.

Speaking of cheap, I couldn’t make any noise out in the shop while our tenant was taking a proctored Zoom test so I replaced the Leaf’s hatch lift struts. I purchased the absolute cheapest struts RockAuto sells, for a whopping $8 each. I took off the factory Nissan struts and, uh…



Lowest bidder wins again, but at least I’m no longer worried that the replacement struts will die in a month.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Thanks so much for the filter info.

I order a Fram Tough Guard for the Delica - only other choice easily available is Wix. I was not able to find definitive on the Mitsubishi OEM to order from Japan. I see a Sakura I can get from Australia but I know nothing if the brand.

SapientCorvid
Jun 16, 2008

reading The Internet
came to gawk at a salty 60 series, STAYED FOR THE INDEPTH FILTER ANALYSIS

love that you did this, you are a scholar. everything on the hiace and prado will be OEM for the foreseeable future, but nice to know that bosch would be a good one to look at too.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


huh. I almost always buy the filter from the local parts store while I'm in there buying the oil. I'll have to take a look at where my Wix came from (it's still out there, unused - I've been procrastinating an oil change for a while...)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
yeah i usually use the napa gold filters, which are made by wix. same part number just without the first number (eg 51515 vs 1515). disappointing that they're not trustworthy anymore. maybe i should get a filter cutter to see for myself, and maybe start using the motorcraft ones instead

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Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


A friend of mine recently bought a NAPA Gold and realized it felt different than before - he cut it open and it was a Mann filter. Such is life with store brands.

I was in the dealer today for a bunch of $12/each bolts (that I stupidly sent south with the transmission) and decided to buy a Honda filter of the same size. I challenge you to find the (non-color) differences:

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