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^^^ that sucks. Goonspeed. Local stores are out of oxiclean versatile free so I grabbed some pbw. Googling about it a lot of people are talking about mixing ovxiclean and tsp/90 to make cheap pbw. Any of you tried this?
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Dec 29, 2021 00:48
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honda whisperer posted:^^^ that sucks. Goonspeed. I just use oxiclean free, but I'm not sure I'd want to use tsp/90 much myself. The oxiclean is just fine, and tsp/90 is not good for glass and you should be wearing a respirator when using. It'd be really good if you have some really disgusting kegs to clean, or some super caked on gross stuff on a kettle.
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Dec 29, 2021 07:25
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Thanks for the heads up on the mix being possibly nasty. Having used pbw a bit it doesn't seem enough different to be worth the effort. Just finished cleaning after moving my old Rasputin clone to a secondary. 1.075 to start, 1.012 today. It's been in primary for 3 weeks and is probably near finished. Sample tasted a little sharp but like it will be good when it mellows out. 2 questions. First i checked fg with a hydrometer and a refractometer. 1.012 is from hydrometer. Refractometer read 1.038. I know the latter won't read right with alcohol in solution but I would assume its fine for checking if the fg moves over time? Much smaller sample if that's ok. Second how long should I leave it in secondary? I'm gonna bottle this so it can condition there too.
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Jan 4, 2022 03:57
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Yep it's fine. You can also use a Brewers friend calculator to adjust the refractometer reading. https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/
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Jan 4, 2022 04:06
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LochNessMonster posted:The Christmas beer for which I completely missed the starting gravity came out quite different then what I expected. previous post might have been missed due to the holidays. Anyone care to take a guess why there's virtually no carbonation in my previous brew?
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Jan 4, 2022 10:15
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LochNessMonster posted:previous post might have been missed due to the holidays. Anyone care to take a guess why there's virtually no carbonation in my previous brew? How big of a beer was it (OG/FG and ABV) I had an issue with my wee heavy and I assume that the yeast was tired and overworked and that I should probably have added yeast again at bottling to carbonate because it took a long rear end time to ferment, and then I waited to bottle a little since it was a beer that was going to condition for over a year.
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Jan 4, 2022 14:52
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tater_salad posted:How big of a beer was it (OG/FG and ABV) I had an issue with my wee heavy and I assume that the yeast was tired and overworked and that I should probably have added yeast again at bottling to carbonate because it took a long rear end time to ferment, and then I waited to bottle a little since it was a beer that was going to condition for over a year. Should’ve been 1085/1015 but Inonly hit 1050 and it was done at 1020 in 2 weeks time. Gravity didn’t move in the last 3-4 days. Yeast was no where close to BBE date.
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Jan 4, 2022 15:38
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The 1800s English IPA I have been aging with Brett C and oak cubes for 6 months is drinking pretty interestingly. It's not funky at all, and the 160 estimated IBUs have indeed mellowed.
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Jan 4, 2022 20:12
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LochNessMonster posted:Should’ve been 1085/1015 but Inonly hit 1050 and it was done at 1020 in 2 weeks time. Gravity didn’t move in the last 3-4 days. Yeast was no where close to BBE date. Post your grain bill and target volume post-boil, if you made a note of that.
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Jan 5, 2022 01:47
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LochNessMonster posted:Should’ve been 1085/1015 but Inonly hit 1050 and it was done at 1020 in 2 weeks time. Gravity didn’t move in the last 3-4 days. Yeast was no where close to BBE date. I’d chalk this up to a continuation of the errors from the mash and ferment. Beers with a lot of residual sugar also can take longer to condition as the yeast tend to already be cranky. I’ve have Imperial Stouts and Scotch Ales take 2 months before because the yeast were done and I didn’t add fresh at bottling. High gravity and messy ferments will cause more problems than anyone wants even with a fresh pack of yeast. Maybe in a month it’ll be okay but still a little flat. Maybe some will be over. Maybe the priming sugar didn’t mix in as well as you hoped. Test another bottle in a week or two from a different portion of the bottling run. If you took from the end, take one from the front if you can remember which is which.
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Jan 5, 2022 04:28
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Pillow Armadillo posted:Post your grain bill and target volume post-boil, if you made a note of that. It was a package deak from the LHBS with mixed grains already so unfortunately I don’t know. Jhet posted:I’d chalk this up to a continuation of the errors from the mash and ferment. Beers with a lot of residual sugar also can take longer to condition as the yeast tend to already be cranky. I’ve have Imperial Stouts and Scotch Ales take 2 months before because the yeast were done and I didn’t add fresh at bottling. High gravity and messy ferments will cause more problems than anyone wants even with a fresh pack of yeast. Maybe in a month it’ll be okay but still a little flat. Maybe some will be over. Maybe the priming sugar didn’t mix in as well as you hoped. Test another bottle in a week or two from a different portion of the bottling run. If you took from the end, take one from the front if you can remember which is which. It is what it is. I’ll leave the bottles I’ve got left for another month or 2 and give them another go then. Almost time to bottle the next one already, hope that turns out better.
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Jan 5, 2022 09:01
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I'm preparing to bottle some mead which I expect will need quite a while before it becomes drinkable (caramelized honey + rose petals + cardamom, and it's pretty heavy on the cardamom). What's the best way to seal my bottles? I've used #8 agglomerated corks before, but inspecting a 2018 bottle shows that the cork is getting wet about halfway up, so it seems like I need something better. Better-quality corks? Maybe #9 size? (Will they work decently with my hand corker, or are you looking at a floor corker for #9 size?) Synthetics? Bottle caps?
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Jan 6, 2022 20:42
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'm preparing to bottle some mead which I expect will need quite a while before it becomes drinkable (caramelized honey + rose petals + cardamom, and it's pretty heavy on the cardamom). What's the best way to seal my bottles? I've used #8 agglomerated corks before, but inspecting a 2018 bottle shows that the cork is getting wet about halfway up, so it seems like I need something better. Better-quality corks? Maybe #9 size? (Will they work decently with my hand corker, or are you looking at a floor corker for #9 size?) Synthetics? Bottle caps? I used #9 corks for a while and ended up having to replace corkscrews at multiple friends houses when I broke them trying to get the drat things out. I switched to synthetics, Nomacorc to be precise, and they've been good. They're more expensive, but winemaking is so goddamn cheap it doesn't matter.
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Jan 6, 2022 20:58
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'm preparing to bottle some mead which I expect will need quite a while before it becomes drinkable (caramelized honey + rose petals + cardamom, and it's pretty heavy on the cardamom). What's the best way to seal my bottles? I've used #8 agglomerated corks before, but inspecting a 2018 bottle shows that the cork is getting wet about halfway up, so it seems like I need something better. Better-quality corks? Maybe #9 size? (Will they work decently with my hand corker, or are you looking at a floor corker for #9 size?) Synthetics? Bottle caps? Good corks if you plan to keep it for any length of time. They have age ratings. #8 is the right size for most wine bottles, so I wouldn't change the size. Synthetics aren't rated for a long storage, and capping it will reduce air transfer. Most wine bottles can't be capped, but you can wax them on the top of the cork to accomplish the same thing. Just buy some cheap beeswax and done.
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Jan 6, 2022 21:30
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Synthetic all the way. Cork taint sucks, although you can mostly treat it by putting the wine/mean in a pitcher with some kitchen plastic wrap and pouring it off. Sometimes the synthetic corks are harder to compress, a hand corker might be awkward. I didn't notice much change using a floor corker.
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Jan 6, 2022 22:35
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Alarbus posted:Synthetic all the way. Cork taint sucks, although you can mostly treat it by putting the wine/mean in a pitcher with some kitchen plastic wrap and pouring it off. I use a floor corker, and they're much easier to push in than #9 corks, anyway.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:30
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Alarbus posted:Cork taint sucks
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Jan 7, 2022 16:41
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It's funny because to me cork taint really does remind me of sweaty mildewy gym clothes, so taint is valid.
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Jan 7, 2022 18:24
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Gave the 1800s English IPA an EKG dry hop in the keg, and it really brought out the Brett. It reminds me of Anchorage Bitter Monk and also, unsurprisingly, it is quite similar to Orval. A bit sweeter due to being all malt, maybe a tad lighter in color due to no crystal, but not much. The balance is very similar even thought mine has almost 5 times the IBUs on paper. I guess the hop burn does last a bit longer. Really happy this 8 month project worked out. Better oxygen control would probably improve it a little, it's does not taste oxidized as such, there's nothing acetic, but one can certainly taste the huge amount of aged hops. Like a hint of that West Coast IPA past it's prime thing. thotsky fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jan 15, 2022 |
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Jan 15, 2022 00:36
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How long can I store base malts? I'd be putting them in airtight plastic buckets with gamma seal lids. I may just buy per-pound for my first few attempts at all-grain though, so I can get a better idea of how much I use.
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Feb 6, 2022 22:01
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Uncrushed, at reasonable temperatures, in sealed, vermin-proof containers, a couple of years.
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Feb 6, 2022 22:29
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Jo3sh posted:Uncrushed, at reasonable temperatures, in sealed, vermin-proof containers, a couple of years. Yeah, I've had malt that I use enough of to buy sacks, but not enough that it'll be gone in a year, and it's always been fine. I use Home Depot orange buckets with gamma seal lids -- each holds about 25 lbs, so American sacks fit clean in two buckets, European sacks (25kg/55lb) don't quite.
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Feb 7, 2022 00:03
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I'll add that it's important to keep your grain separated if you can. If you get one sack which has grain beetles, the bugs will spread to whatever else they can reach. If you open a bucket and find bugs in it, discard that grain and wash the bucket out well to avoid cross-contaminating clean malt.
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Feb 7, 2022 23:39
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No McRibs...no problem  One rack of baby back ribs, typical rib rub (brown sugar, paprika, onion powder garlic salt etc.) and caramelized onions and the bread, cheers for our publix bakery italian bread. Nhilist fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Feb 14, 2022 |
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Feb 14, 2022 14:26
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Sounds good, what sort of beer did you make to go with it?
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Feb 14, 2022 14:34
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Bottled my first lager (california steam) yesterday we'll see how it turns out. First sample seemed tasty but a i forgot to draw off a sample before adding the priming sugar, so it was a bit sweet. It should be a nice crisp beer. First beer I designed basically on my own while thumbing through Designing great beers so super excited for it to be done. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Feb 14, 2022 |
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Feb 14, 2022 14:53
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I haven't brewed beer in ages, but I've just started a lingonberry wine. Fermentation seems to be having some trouble getting started, apparently like blueberries the fruit is high in benzoic acid which both inhibits yeast growth and is, well, an acid. Think I might finally have to buy a pH meter and titration kit and start doing better acidity control of my wines.
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Feb 15, 2022 11:38
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I would recommend spending a few dollars more and getting a nicer meter, I had a cheap one for years and I was always leery of it. I just bought a slightly more expensive one and it's a lot better, 2-3 point calibration curves, etc. And in reality it was maybe 20 bucks more.
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Feb 15, 2022 12:01
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Good to know! My LBS has a couple of Milwaukee meters, I was thinking of getting the PH55 PRO which does have 2-point calibration. I've been put off getting a pH meter because the limited probe lifespan and maintenance/calibration seemed a pain for something I only use a couple times a month, but on the other hand I always feel like I'm more or less guessing when I use pH test strips. Plus this will work with beer, wine and water measurements.
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Feb 15, 2022 16:01
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big scary monsters posted:Good to know! My LBS has a couple of Milwaukee meters, I was thinking of getting the PH55 PRO which does have 2-point calibration. I've been put off getting a pH meter because the limited probe lifespan and maintenance/calibration seemed a pain for something I only use a couple times a month, but on the other hand I always feel like I'm more or less guessing when I use pH test strips. Plus this will work with beer, wine and water measurements. I have the MW102 and it’s been serving me well for years. Keeping the probe in solution means I haven’t needed to replace it and buying the calibration liquid means I haven’t run out yet. It works great for any beer/wine, but I also use it for fermentation and canning projects in the kitchen too. Takes the guessing out of it. It also worked for hydroponic gardening. The price was worth it for me.
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Feb 15, 2022 16:10
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The MW102 was a bit more than I wanted to spend, so I ended up splitting the difference and getting the PH56. Same claimed accuracy as the MW102 but without the handy removable probes. My lingonberry wine measured at a pH of 2.6, which does not make the yeast happy. I need to buy some sodium hydroxide before I can measure the TA, but handy to immediately know there's a problem there. I'm going to adjust with calcium carbonate. Advice online suggest not using too much of it, although it doesn't say why - I guess it can affect taste (and maybe the time it takes to drop clear?). A blueberry wine which has been stuck at a higher than desired SG came in at pH 3.2, which is also on the low side but not completely outside of normal range.
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Feb 16, 2022 18:57
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big scary monsters posted:The MW102 was a bit more than I wanted to spend, so I ended up splitting the difference and getting the PH56. Same claimed accuracy as the MW102 but without the handy removable probes. Can't speak for calcium carbonate off the top of my head but I know for a fact that if you push Magnesium salts into the >100 ppm range it acts as a diuretic and causes the shits.
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Feb 22, 2022 08:04
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Well poo poo, the one Time I was like nah it's fine.. didn't stick my bottles in the cooler and left them upstairs to carbonate. Now there's a beer stain on my basement ceiling. 
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Feb 24, 2022 02:51
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tater_salad posted:Now there's a beer stain on my basement ceiling. It's not homebrew if you don't mop the ceiling at least once in a while.
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Feb 24, 2022 03:15
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I'm selling all of my homebrew gear ahead of a move and with a baby in tow. Here's the ad, not sure if this is allowed or not. Am I asking to much for all of this? https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/for/d/saint-paul-homebrew-equipment/7452049952.html
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Feb 28, 2022 20:59
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BaseballPCHiker posted:I'm selling all of my homebrew gear ahead of a move and with a baby in tow. Here's the ad, not sure if this is allowed or not. Am I asking to much for all of this? Seems reasonable enough to me, especially with the fridge. I don’t know how much gear turn over there is in the cities, but there’s enough stuff there for the price from what I see myself.
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Feb 28, 2022 22:53
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Anyone have a malt bill they build their Did the following with the verdant yeast (London iii variant) and didn’t notice a bunch of haze or juicy appearance: 73% 2 row 20% flaked/rolled oats 6% white wheat A tiny bit of carafoam/carapils/dextrine malt Was quite tasty (all mosaic), but appearance was waaaaaaay off. Almost like a cloudy pale ale. Thinking of going more like this next time to create more haze: 36% pils 25% rolled/flaked oats 25% malted wheat (red) 10% Vienna 4% dextrine Stuck mashes are not an issue (brew in bag in a cooler). Thoughts? I just bought a boatload of hops from hops direct (because, their shipping is insane, but price per pound is crazy cheap) and looking to try some combos. Anyone see any fault in trying to go strawberry, melon, passion fruit, and small bit of citrus with hüll melon, azacca, and strata? Never worked with these hops so unsure of the strength of each. Should be fun for the spring/summer. But first the annual ESB…
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Mar 6, 2022 02:13
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I don't think neipa maltbills have to approach lambic levels of protein. For something around that 7% mark, especially when using London 3, like 86% Golden Promise, 12% Wheat Malt and 2% C15 is plenty.
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Mar 6, 2022 02:29
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LaserWash posted:Anyone have a malt bill they build their This malt bill should be fine for it really. More wheat isn't going to make it hazy, but timing your dry hop right and then drinking it quickly does.
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Mar 6, 2022 03:33
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Making a brew today and fermenting in a stainless steel container for the first time, it just occurred to me in assuming there's no issue with using a heat belt as I've been doing with the plastic buckets? Also there's a tap at the bottom without a filter so I'm guessing I don't want to use that when bottling unless I want bottles of sediment
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Mar 6, 2022 17:30
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