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paberu
Jun 23, 2013

Thanks, I figure it's petty superficial but was still hoping I could get it to it's former shiny status using the ultrasonic cleaner. Plus I'll be cleaning it again in near future so might be good to figure out a different cleaning solution that doesn't strain it.

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I’d be afraid of what CLR would do to the metal much more than tiny surface rust specks.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Bunny Fiesta posted:

Does anyone ever have trouble with confidence in the maintenance work you're doing?

Keep working on bikes. They're extremely simple machines and before you know it you'll be doing most of your own maintenance a few beers in with music blasting in the background while yelling obscenities at your friends.

But do use a torque wrench on your crank pinch bolts and on your carbon bits. Some people say you just tighten it till you hear the crunching sound then back it off a quarter turn but ehhh.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

paberu posted:

Have some weird rust develop on my chain after ultrasonic cleaning :(. I did 2 ultrasonic cleans on a brand new shimano cn-m8100 using Zep citrus cleaner with hot water, followed up by an alcohol rinse/5min soak while I waited for my other chain to wax (91% iso since I can't find mineral spirits and like in CA).

Now it has small red discoloration on many of the plates, not entirely sure what I should do to get that off. I've given it a wax bath in the meantime to seal it up.

Weirdly the other chain (same brand new CN-M8100) but stamped with TF instead of TG didn't discolour and has remained shiny/silver.

Anything I should do to try and clean the rusted up chain? I was thinking of giving it a diluted CLR ultrasonic bath followed by a water rinse and then re waxing.
FYI after I rode my newly waxed chain out side in the rain I came back a couple of days later to find that it had started to rust, now If I ride in the rain I will wipe the chain over with a water displacing spray and a oily rag.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

mikemelbrooks posted:

FYI after I rode my newly waxed chain out side in the rain I came back a couple of days later to find that it had started to rust, now If I ride in the rain I will wipe the chain over with a water displacing spray and a oily rag.

Hope you don’t mean wd40. Liable to poo poo up any lube.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

wooger posted:

Hope you don’t mean wd40. Liable to poo poo up any lube.

Just to be clear, I spray the cloth and wipe the chain to disperse dampness, I would never advocate using it as a lubricant.

Mechanical Pencil
Feb 19, 2013

by vyelkin
Note to self:

Be really loving stingy with loctite on suspension pivot bolts lest it makes it past the seal into the bearing, unless of course you enjoy the sounds of rice bubbles as you ride!

Many frustrating hours later, cleaned and repacked with grease, noise mildly subdued.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man
A freshly waxed chain will rust while stored in a slightly humid garage. It's mostly superficial rust and comes off pretty much completely while riding.

But also yes, store waxed chains in a dry environment if possible...in a plastic bag or bin.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I picked up some older mavic cosmics without knowing about their poo poo freehubs, and there's enough play that I can feel it pedaling. There's a grinding noise with any pedal stroke of any significant force. Does anyone have experience with putting new/oversized bushings or the hubdoctor bearing kits in mavic freehubs?

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013

I am looking to put a cassette with a little more range on my 9spd road bike. It currently has a "standard" cassette and I was looking at the SRAM PG-990 9 speed 11-34. My hub is currently shimano/sram. So, the only things I should need is new chain and derailleur tune right?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

whodatwhere posted:

I am looking to put a cassette with a little more range on my 9spd road bike. It currently has a "standard" cassette and I was looking at the SRAM PG-990 9 speed 11-34. My hub is currently shimano/sram. So, the only things I should need is new chain and derailleur tune right?

If your derailer can handle the range. A "road" sized cage may not go up to 34.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

SimonSays posted:

If your derailer can handle the range. A "road" sized cage may not go up to 34.

and if it doesn’t a wolf tooth road link will solve that

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013

SimonSays posted:

If your derailer can handle the range. A "road" sized cage may not go up to 34.

Ah, good call. Just checked and it doesn't.

e.pilot posted:

and if it doesn’t a wolf tooth road link will solve that

Will check out that wolftooth link. Saw that recommended somewhere else as well.

Thanks!

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



whodatwhere posted:

Ah, good call. Just checked and it doesn't.

Will check out that wolftooth link. Saw that recommended somewhere else as well.

Thanks!

What RD do you have? It’s possible it’s out of spec but might work. Having a roadlink hanging around is good though, especially since they’re pretty cheap.

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

What RD do you have? It’s possible it’s out of spec but might work. Having a roadlink hanging around is good though, especially since they’re pretty cheap.

It's an old Ultegra RD-6500. Should be standard mount? My frame has integrated hangar.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Here are the specs for that one. https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-53Z0D-000-00-ENG.pdf
You can usually push them a little further than spec, but I am fairly certain you will need an adapter to make that reach all the way up to 34t.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
Oh that boy's got a real small cage. 32 could work if you don't have too-compact rings at the front, 34 will for sure need a road link.

E: what a beautiful derailer. However it looks like an 11-34 tooth cassette puts you 4 teeth over the wrap capacity if you're using a road double at the front. You'd be giving up a fair few gear combinations at the cross-chain ends if you install that cassette with a road link. Worse with compact chainrings.

SimonSays fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Mar 1, 2022

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

e.pilot posted:

and if it doesn’t a wolf tooth road link will solve that

A wolftooth helps with reaching a larger rear cog than specced, but doesn’t help with an overall larger system capacity.

CopperHound posted:

Here are the specs for that one. https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-53Z0D-000-00-ENG.pdf
You can usually push them a little further than spec, but I am fairly certain you will need an adapter to make that reach all the way up to 34t.

Yep, best case it’s a GS (long cage), and assuming the usual 16 tooth difference in the front chainrings, that only leaves a capacity of 21 for the rear. 34 - 11 = 23.

If it’s a short cage whodatwhere has, a new Shimano Sora 9 speed long cage derailleur is cheap.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

wooger posted:

A wolftooth helps with reaching a larger rear cog than specced, but doesn’t help with an overall larger system capacity.

Yep, best case it’s a GS (long cage), and assuming the usual 16 tooth difference in the front chainrings, that only leaves a capacity of 21 for the rear. 34 - 11 = 23.

You may have to learn to not use the biggest cogs on the cassette in the big ring. Far from ideal but should natural enough if you're riding 2x all the time.

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013

Thanks for all the discussion!

So, it is definitely the short cage version. And upfront I actually have 53/39 so 14 differential. It will be a stretch for sure, but if it doesn't reach with the wolftooth then only $20 spent + a spare part for future and will look into changing derailleur e.g. sora.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

whodatwhere posted:

Thanks for all the discussion!

So, it is definitely the short cage version. And upfront I actually have 53/39 so 14 differential. It will be a stretch for sure, but if it doesn't reach with the wolftooth then only $20 spent + a spare part for future and will look into changing derailleur e.g. sora.

That puts you eight teeth over capacity for your derailer and if you gently caress up, you'll shift and snap your derailer off the frame, tossing it and the chain into your rear wheel.

Fyi.

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013

SimonSays posted:

That puts you eight teeth over capacity for your derailer and if you gently caress up, you'll shift and snap your derailer off the frame, tossing it and the chain into your rear wheel.

Fyi.

:black101:
jk, guess a new rear derailleur is more realistic...

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

whodatwhere posted:

:black101:
jk, guess a new rear derailleur is more realistic...

I ran the same setup on my cobbled together “gravel” bike for a while (wolf tooth + short cage 6500 RD) and my solution was to set the limit screws to n the FD to not allow it to shift into the big ring! It was good for my use case on that bike (only gravel, and mostly steep stuff at that, never needed to be in the big ring).

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
Speaking of derailleurs...

Am I right in assuming I can swap any Shimano 9-speed mountain bike style derailleur for any other in their line up?

I've got a Trek FX3 I use for commuting all year in Montreal so it gets pretty beat to hell in winter with our rotating schedule of freezing rain, brown slush, and more salt than the ocean. The original rear derailleur is some kind of Acera (RD-M3100 or some such). The tension arm keeps jamming and making the chain skip if I leave whatever gear I was on when the arm jammed. The pivot is probably full of crud. I was going to take it apart last weekend for a CLA but it doesn't have the usual set screw that lets you pull the pivot out. Its a circlip embedded in the plastic casing hidden under a welded plastic cap. Pretty much designed to not be user serviceable.

I want to replace it with a higher end model I can actually service. This town is going to make my next bike a belt drive.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Sauer posted:

Speaking of derailleurs...

Am I right in assuming I can swap any Shimano 9-speed mountain bike style derailleur for any other in their line up?

I've got a Trek FX3 I use for commuting all year in Montreal so it gets pretty beat to hell in winter with our rotating schedule of freezing rain, brown slush, and more salt than the ocean. The original rear derailleur is some kind of Acera (RD-M3100 or some such). The tension arm keeps jamming and making the chain skip if I leave whatever gear I was on when the arm jammed. The pivot is probably full of crud. I was going to take it apart last weekend for a CLA but it doesn't have the usual set screw that lets you pull the pivot out. Its a circlip embedded in the plastic casing hidden under a welded plastic cap. Pretty much designed to not be user serviceable.

I want to replace it with a higher end model I can actually service. This town is going to make my next bike a belt drive.

All Shimano 9-speed derailers work the same yes.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
Great, thank you very much.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Does anyone recognize what chainring has those standoff bolts to mount the bashguard?


I'd like a drop-in replacement for this double crank, just in 165mm, but I haven't heard from Tern what crank they specced. Though I suspect chainline isn't as much of an issue on a longtail, except for making sure your FD still works.

What other 104BCD double cranks have a bash guard solution?

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I don't but shout outs to wera brand hex wrenches.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

kimbo305 posted:

Does anyone recognize what chainring has those standoff bolts to mount the bashguard?


I'd like a drop-in replacement for this double crank, just in 165mm, but I haven't heard from Tern what crank they specced. Though I suspect chainline isn't as much of an issue on a longtail, except for making sure your FD still works.

What other 104BCD double cranks have a bash guard solution?

If it were me I'd have specced an OEM crank since there's much more variety than is available at retail and I could get the exact specs I want. I genuinely can't think of where to start looking for a crank like yours available at retail.

Actually I don't know why I wrote this since it's not helpful at all, but here we are.

E: that looks like the way Shimano TY501 or M361/M371 cranks mount the chainguard but hell knows if the bolt circle will fit.

marsisol
Mar 30, 2010
I'm putting together a second wheelset for my gravel bike and I can't properly get the tire seated. Always seems to be a "lowspot" and I've tried all the tricks so now I'm worried about compatibility. Wheels are Giant CXR1s and tires are Giant Course 1 28s. Tubeless set up. Wheelset is hookless but apparently compatible with these tires. Any ideas?

marsisol fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 4, 2022

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Usually I try all sorts of stuff for about half an hour until I break down and lube the tire bead with liquid soap.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Had to take a bike into the shop after spending a fair amount of effort replacing the chain and cassette and fiddling with settings but still getting jams and drops.

Heard today that the rear derailleur spring was shot, so I feel a little better about that.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
I had a derailleur arm get stuck in the spokes

Was expecting a far harder Maintenance job , but the replacement was simply plug and play

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
I swapped out the horribad 3x8 acera on my wife’s fatbike for a super budget 1x12 deore with a zrace ring/chain/cassette today, so much better.



e.pilot fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Mar 16, 2022

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

Mechanical Pencil posted:

Note to self:

Be really loving stingy with loctite on suspension pivot bolts lest it makes it past the seal into the bearing, unless of course you enjoy the sounds of rice bubbles as you ride!

Many frustrating hours later, cleaned and repacked with grease, noise mildly subdued.

depending on what the bolt is threading into if you can just put locktight on the receiving threads then you don't have to worry about that...

marsisol posted:

I'm putting together a second wheelset for my gravel bike and I can't properly get the tire seated. Always seems to be a "lowspot" and I've tried all the tricks so now I'm worried about compatibility. Wheels are Giant CXR1s and tires are Giant Course 1 28s. Tubeless set up. Wheelset is hookless but apparently compatible with these tires. Any ideas?

did you do the trick of putting it in with a tube first and letting it sit for awhile, then only unseating one side so you can take the tube out, put the tubeless valve stem in, and then try?

Levitate fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Mar 18, 2022

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

any recommendations for parts distributors that are willing to work with very small 1 person home bike repair businesses? I have an S Corp lying around & all the required crap there, just no commercial location (which QBP requires).

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

Man_of_Teflon posted:

any recommendations for parts distributors that are willing to work with very small 1 person home bike repair businesses? I have an S Corp lying around & all the required crap there, just no commercial location (which QBP requires).

OMG, the place I used as a teenager in the EARLY 1970'S when I used my dad's reseller license and had a little business with a HS classmate buying 531DB frames from the UK (Knight) and assembled them with Suntour/Shimano/SR components IS STILL IN BUSINESS!

https://www.bicycleretailer.com/north-america/2013/09/26/security-continue-shimano-sales-small-builders#.YjQTEy-B0z8

WOW, JUST WOW

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Man_of_Teflon posted:

any recommendations for parts distributors that are willing to work with very small 1 person home bike repair businesses? I have an S Corp lying around & all the required crap there, just no commercial location (which QBP requires).

For major components just use whatever web based euro parts retailers are still abusing OEM status to sell Shimano and SRAM parts to the north american market for less than what shops pay their suppliers. When you need smaller stuff like bulk cables and housing just find a shop willing to sell you a box of bulk Jagwire at retail and then sell it by the foot. Your markup will be less than the shop you're buying from but you'll still be making money. For tubes just pay retail and mark em up a buck and if they say 'I can get them cheaper at X' tell em ok go ahead bring me a tube.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Man_of_Teflon posted:

any recommendations for parts distributors that are willing to work with very small 1 person home bike repair businesses? I have an S Corp lying around & all the required crap there, just no commercial location (which QBP requires).
Everyone is going to want to see your business liability insurance and many are going to want to see that you have a physical store front.

You might have luck with BTI, Midway, and/or Merry Sales.

JBI is good for low end stuff, but I forget what they require.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 18, 2022

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SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

CopperHound posted:


JBI is good for low end stuff, but I forget what they require.

A picture of your commercial premises.

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