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It's great you did this. I've been using either OEM or WIX/Napa Gold for the last decade. After seeing the Mexico WIX internals, there's no way I'd want to run them on my rotaries. Looks like I need to stick to OEM, Bosch, Denso, or MANN now. I'll order one of each and cut them open to see how they fair for the "high pressure" 100+psi oil system found on my FD's.
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Feb 23, 2022 19:37
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Raluek posted:yeah i usually use the napa gold filters, which are made by wix. same part number just without the first number (eg 51515 vs 1515). disappointing that they're not trustworthy anymore. maybe i should get a filter cutter to see for myself, and maybe start using the motorcraft ones instead Cheapest I've found is $42 at Jegs & Summit (or Jegs via Amazon.) Amazingly expensive for such a simple tool.
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Feb 24, 2022 00:20
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Darchangel posted:Cheapest I've found is $42 at Jegs & Summit (or Jegs via Amazon.) Amazingly expensive for such a simple tool. christ, i dont need one a hundred bucks much, which seems to be what many are going for 
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Feb 24, 2022 08:49
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If you're going to cut up new filters, just use an angle grinder and assume the metal flakes aren't left over from manufacturing (not a particularly valid assumption for a cheapo filter, right?). I wonder if one could modify a kitchen can opener somehow to crack open oil filters. Or buy one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-8-in-Junior-Tube-Cutter-80-511-111/304384093 Remove the bearings and the cutter from the housing and mount them to a piece of scrap steel (or maybe just oak or plywood) and cut open oil filters that way. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Feb 24, 2022 |
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Feb 24, 2022 16:18
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PBCrunch posted:If you're going to cut up new filters, just use an angle grinder and assume the metal flakes aren't left over from manufacturing (not a particularly valid assumption for a cheapo filter, right?). i would be cutting open used filters, personally. i like the idea of welding tubing cutter bits to a cheap vise, or similar fixture. add another future project to the pile, lol
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Feb 25, 2022 07:34
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PBCrunch posted:If you're going to cut up new filters, just use an angle grinder and assume the metal flakes aren't left over from manufacturing (not a particularly valid assumption for a cheapo filter, right?). Looking at the design of them, yeah, I can build one. That's what I meant about cost vs the simplicity of the design. The "wheels" on the (nice) commercial ones are standard sealed bearing like in rollerblades or a skateboard, and you can get the blade as a replacement part or in a cheap cutter. I saw some replacement ones on Aliexpress with a nice bearing. There were some complaints on the reviews for the Jegs/Summit one that they needed modification for smaller filters - the bearings are far enough apart mounted to a straight-across piece of aluminum that the filter contacted the block before the bearings, and looking at the design, I can see exactly what they mean. A bit of work with a die grinder takes care of it, but it's a lazy design, especially when it's marketed as being able to work with those size filters. Like, one more easy machining step is all they needed... They think this is worth $42:  Proform's is a fairly nice billet piece:  ...that they want $70 for! https://www.amazon.com/Proform-66490-Oil-Filter-Cutter/dp/B000CP8DFW/ There are a number of them on Amazon that are near identical if not actually identical. And they're all $70. This one by "Foghorn Powersports" is basically identical to the Jegs, but fixes the aforementioned small filter problem:  https://www.amazon.com/Foghorn-Powersports-Cutting-Canister-accommodate/dp/B097QGM2ZQ/ Here's a fairly simple design to build:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQ9ZLPL/ $65. A knockoff of Longacre's design (which is $90!) Aliexpress didn't have anything I could find on a brief search, despite most of these assuredly coming from China. edit: found one. And it's $42. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002754503230.html 
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Feb 25, 2022 |
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Feb 25, 2022 17:18
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Darchangel posted:Here's a fairly simple design to build: That’s the one I have. I did have to move the bearings to the second set of holes but the smaller holes work for every filter I own (and I could move them back anyway). For my non-existent fab skills this was the way to go; for $100 in cutting tool and sacrificial filters I’m hoping to get more life out of the engine. For ‘cruiser updates, I’ve been working on it every day for a couple hours but not a lot of updates. Turns out I ordered the wrong shocks, which is a setback. I’ve spent a lot of time cleaning greasy parts in my new parts washer. For anyone looking to reupholster seats, be careful with the tabs that hold the head rests. We found lots of references online to ‘just pry them out with a flat-head screwdriver’, which would absolutely break them. You have to get your hand underneath and pinch them like an electrical connector, and by the way a lot of the seat guts are as sharp as a computer case. 
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Feb 25, 2022 19:02
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Headrests that you have to dive into the guts of the seat to remove are evil. And yeah, they don’t debit anything in there.
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Feb 25, 2022 20:24
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Couldn't you just use a cheap tailpipe cutter? Like this: https://smile.amazon.com/UTMALL-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Cutting-19-83mm/dp/B08GKVQDDB Guess that may not work very well for very small / very large filters, but I'd imagine it would get probably 95% of "standard" sizes.
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Feb 26, 2022 18:50
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I think I just took the last drive in the FJ62 with the automatic transmission  I spent too much time this weekend doom scrolling the outbreak of WWIII but I did spend a decent amount of time wrenching. Last week I got hung up on the shocks because it turned out I ordered the wrong ones - FJ60s used 16mm (5/8”) shock pins, FJ62s use 19mm (3/4”). I ordered the shocks everyone on ih8mud says to run but they are all apparently doing it on FJ60s. After trying for two days to get the shocks on without destroying anything I finally figured out the problem. So how do I fix it? Well, I *could* order the proper shock bushings…Or I could go full stupid. What could go wrong?  Oh, right…  Nevertheless, I got them bored out in an approximation of a round hole. I suspect I will need new bushings before the next shock replacement. I got it all back together with the new shocks (not seen here):  Pumpkins are orange  Note the longer sway bar links. That’s another item that should have been done with the lift. They saved $29.50 (2022 dollars). I can really feel the sway bar working in the turns now. Before turning it around so the back hatch would be against the door I also took time to wire up the backup camera.  I installed it to the license plate and managed to run the wires through all the stock holes and grommets to the tail lights. The connections are all inside; if the harness had been half an inch shorter it would be right in the rear tire spray. Right now the wire is coiled up inside the panel behind the driver’s side rear door, waiting for the carpet to be pulled up when doing the transmission hump. Tonight’s test drive was both to see how the new rear diff drives (fine) and get speedometer calibration numbers. At 50mph indicated I’m actually going 62. It now idles at 16mph in second gear.  Also this week a brush and heater arrived for the parts washer. I ordered a 300W engine oil pan heater for heat and it seems to be working okay; it’s fine once up to temp but takes hours to get there.  I need to get the tank sealed up so I don’t evaporate out all my Simple Green. Tomorrow I tear the dash apart. Once I drill that clutch master cylinder hole in the firewall there’s no going back.
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Mar 1, 2022 08:32
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THE LONG-AWAITED DENSO VS BOSCH FIGHT IS HERE Right off the bat, these are clearly the top two filters thus far (I have Motorcraft and $lol$ Mobil1 coming). To be honest, this is really close/possibly a tie. The filters are two very different designs, such as you can fit within a canister, but they are both very well designed and assembled. The Denso filter medium is slightly shorter and wider, the Bosch is taller. The pleats are about the same depth. I’m not going to get into the exact filter area because either is probably sufficient for a reasonable interval. The material feels very similar. Both filters put far more effort into the anti-drain back valve than any others:   The Denso rubber sits in a depression and seals directly to the holes. The Bosch has a raised sealing surface. Both use nice pliable rubber. I suspect both work well. The pressure valves in both are similar coil-spring types, even if they look different:  The difference is that the Denso is assembled from this side, the Bosch the other way (it is held in place with a c-clip). Again, they both probably work well. The Denso comes with the o-ring pre-lubricated and a disposable plastic cover over the bottom. The Bosch is made in the USA, Denso in China. They both cost within pennies of each other; right around $3.50 each on Rock Auto. I would not hesitate to run either filter. One major note: This pretty clearly shows that different filters within the same brand can have very different construction. I actually like this Denso design a lot better than the Denso/Toyota YZZD3 I cut open earlier; now I’m tempted to see if the non-Toyota branded version of that filter really is exactly the same.
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Mar 2, 2022 06:44
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Doing god's work chopping up all these filters. I've run Wixeses for a long while now but I think I may jump ship to Bosch after seeing all your stuff. They're like half the drat price of the equivalent Wix.
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Mar 2, 2022 14:24
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Yeah same. No more projects* (except science projects)
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Mar 2, 2022 19:01
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That's really interesting on the Denso vs Denso*Toyota. As for the Bosch, not surprising, though they're another Champion Labs filter (just a higher tier). They make a whole boatload of brands, including Mobil 1 and.... Fram.
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Mar 2, 2022 19:40
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Well anyone can point me to an exact match if fram ph6355 I’d rather have Noah or sensor for the Delica I can’t find it online don’t think there is a crossover
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Mar 2, 2022 23:14
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Luber-Finer LFP805 (made/owned by Champion Labs) It looks like your two easy options are Wix (Mann+Hummel) or Fram (Champion Labs). Great, now I need to track down more Mann+Hummel filters to compare. The also own Purolator and I remember those filters going to crap after the purchase too. All the Champion Labs filters seem to be fine despite the market differentiation. Obviously Honda considers the cheapest Fram filter to be just fine for their uses.
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Mar 3, 2022 00:25
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My in-laws are arriving tonight and I *should* be cleaning the house - but it’s a lot more fun to burn money for internet kudos.  This looks like a really expensive Fram/Champion filter. That’s not to say it’s bad. The anti-drain back rubber looks identical to the Fram/Honda twins:  The biggest functional differences from the other Champion Labs filters are that the bypass valve is part of the spring and the interior pleat support is plastic:  It looks like a perfectly serviceable filter but I wouldn’t buy it again - I honestly like the Bosch & Denso better. Being beaten by filters 1/5 the price is just funny. This is the first K&N product I’ve ever bought and will likely also be the last. Next up are the O’Reilly store brands, MicroGard and MicroGard Select:  The regular MicroGard is pretty clearly the same as the Mexico Wix (even made in Mexico, probably at the same factory), with one weird change - this metal adapter between the filter and ABV:  The MG Select (made in Vietnam) has very different rubber than everyone else:  I’m curious what’s up with that, though it seems very pliable. It also has a raised sealing surface like the Bosch. It seems to have some issues with adhesive application consistency:  I’d probably run the MicroGuard Select if that was what I had available. I’m not sure I’d bother with the cheaper one when I could get a Fram instead. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Mar 3, 2022 |
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Mar 3, 2022 03:44
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Filter chat is amazing. My gut feeling filter rankings have been so wrong.
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Mar 3, 2022 03:56
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The K&N has that rear end-kicking removal nut welded onto it. In some applications that is enough to pick the K&N (shudder).
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Mar 3, 2022 16:41
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About that… The ‘nut’ is sheet metal. I put the nut in my bench vise to cut the filter and it deformed. I ended up holding that filter in my hand while cutting it open. An oil filter socket, properly sized, would be better. A cheaper filter + socket is cheaper than a single K&N.
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Mar 3, 2022 18:30
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Doing god's work chopping up all these filters. I've run Wixeses for a long while now but I think I may jump ship to Bosch after seeing all your stuff. They're like half the drat price of the equivalent Wix. Same, I remember years back seeing something like this and Fram was the worst filter they cut apart by far. I'm going to look for a tubing cutter after I change my oil tomorrow now, thanks a lot for sidetracking me some more. I've only ever needed the filter wrench/nut/knipex when its the first oil change I've done on it, looks like that nut would be worthless at jiffy lube levels of oil filter torque.
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Mar 4, 2022 15:33
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Jiffy Lube isn't putting on those filters (K&N even makes a "pro series" without the nut for shops that want to put fancy filters on). Whole point of it is to give you, the person who cares about proper oil filter torques, an option other than a strap/cup wrench or crushing it with pliers.
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Mar 4, 2022 16:05
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It. Is. Happening! We’re trying to get the transmission stabbed in this weekend. If I don’t kill my FIL it *may* be driving next week with the 5-speed! That’s a pretty big ‘if’, though. He knows his stuff but I’m particular about how I do things and keeping everything straight will be a challenge. I came home today to find he had started half a dozen projects with dozens of bolts pulled off and all in one big pile 
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Mar 5, 2022 07:46
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Advent Horizon posted:I came home today to find he had started half a dozen projects with dozens of bolts pulled off and all in one big pile Jfc. There would be words and hurt feelings.
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Mar 5, 2022 14:46
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I try to keep them organized by precariously piling the bolts from each separate thing I remove in a different spot in the engine compartment. What kind of monster just puts them all in one pile?
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Mar 5, 2022 17:46
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If I was on the jury I would aquit.
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Mar 5, 2022 18:59
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Today was a slogfest. The project has been snowballing rapidly and is now including a whole lot of other things I planned to do at some time in the future. We still haven’t met the pre-project goal of replacing the front motor mounts. Everything has been related to removing stuff to get at the mounts and realizing now is the time to do X, Y, and Z. My FIL is supposed to be here only until Wednesday but is already talking about changing his flight. For an idea of how far off track we’ve gotten, here’s a picture of a 26mm exhaust manifold bung that is now stripped out:  gently caress me that is going to suck to deal with. On a brighter note, another couple filters showed up:  These are both a couple decent Champion Labs filters, but it’s interesting how much smaller the Motorcraft is than the Mobil1. They both have basically the same anti-drain back valve as the Bosch; I noticed that they seem to have an issue when the filter medium isn’t absolutely perfectly situated:  I suspect that’s fine for most applications but the Mazda has the filter 90* from vertical. That’s basically worst case scenario for an ABV so I’ll probably order up a case of Densos instead. I want to be clear, though, that I would be happy running any of the Champion filters, from the lowly Fram on up, in any application with a vertical (either direction) filter.
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Mar 6, 2022 07:30
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Advent Horizon posted:My in-laws are arriving tonight and I *should* be cleaning the house - but it’s a lot more fun to burn money for internet kudos. I read this all in a Project Farm voice and it fit the cadence perfectly.
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Mar 7, 2022 02:04
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Okay, it’s now Sunday evening and we have finally completed the Friday afternoon pre-project of changing the front motor mounts. We ended up having to take so much stuff out that I kind of wish I’d bought a timing cover gasket too.  There were many, many times we debated canceling the motor mounts but stuck with it. In the end I’m really glad we did, even if we are now way behind. We have to get the transmission crossmember welded in tomorrow before my in-laws fly home and that’s a hard deadline since I’m not a welder. The reason I’m glad, despite the deadline, is that, even though they appeared good, the passenger (edit: DRIVER’S) side (which is the one that fails first) turned out to be cracked:  You can see the long horizontal crack under the top metal piece of the sandwich. If that had failed anywhere it would have suuucked. It also turned out the the new mounts moved the engine approximately 1/4” due to the new, non-aged, rubber - which is precisely why I wanted to change them. Now all the mounts will be the same age so the transmission crossmember will (hopefully) sit exactly where it should. Also got started on tearing things apart because we have a long, long day ahead of us tomorrow.  The whole dash has to come out to do the pedals but for right now we just need to get the carpet up. Trying to salvage this carpet for now so we can replace it all another day when we have more time/budget. Every project of mine that my FIL helps with has a tendency to snowball so we kind of expected this. It’s not that anything is really going wrong (except that exhaust bung), it’s just that things snowball in an attempt to make sure everything is done *correctly*. A few years ago when they visited we spent three days without running water while changing out a water heater that snowballed into framing an exterior wall and moving a gas line. I just spent $150 on supplies to fix something our PO did in my home electrical panel that should have clearly been caught by any of the many inspectors that have looked at it since. We have to fix that before we can do any welding so I’m more than a little peeved, but at least my house will have lower odds of randomly burning down in the future. StormDrain posted:I read this all in a Project Farm voice and it fit the cadence perfectly. Wow! Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 7, 2022 07:47
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I rarely have a project that doesn't snowball because I refuse to reuse or just leave things I find broken or wrong while doing the thing I initially set out to fix, upgrade, or replace. It's a curse, but I've slacked before and ended up doing the work twice. Never again if I can help it.
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Mar 8, 2022 00:11
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First things first - Happy Birthday sharkytm! Okay, pleasantries are out of the way, now we can move on to misery. Today’s do-or-die deadline was to get the transmission crossmember brackets welded to the frame. This is where it’s currently sitting:  As you can see, not the frame. I’m going to call in sick tomorrow to make an effort at getting that done before my FIL’s flight leaves since he’s my welder. It’s not *entirely* doom and gloom (though I have more of that later); we did get the automatic out. We had to lift the whole FJ62 up higher to get the transmission out; with 27” to the frame at the highest point (near the rear spring mounts) we just barely managed to squeak it under:  Big, old, and ugly vs new hotness:  Side note, the new transmission in that picture is sitting on the original scissor-style transmission jack I bought for this project. The new jack is seen under the auto. I saved $20 last fall by buying the cheaper jack (the 800-pound was on sale at the time) and ended up spending a lot more when I had to buy it anyway. What’s holding us up right this minute? Well, we need to put the bellhousing on but noticed a previously-unknown plug in the block weeping oil. It’s the hex head plug in the upper left:  That plug takes a 12mm hex head and the biggest I could find at 7pm was 10mm. We’re going to start looking at 7am when the industrial supply place opens and hope they have one. Yes, I do plan to replace the rear main seal. Unfortunately the oil pan has to come off along with the rear main bearing cap so I’ll just do that by myself in the next couple days. Since the transmission mount is no longer holding up the rear of the engine, this is what we have going as a medium-term engine support:  I am in WAY over my head on this project, especially with a deadline. 
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Mar 8, 2022 07:50
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That unknown plug is probably just a plug for the end of the spot where they gun drill the oil galley to all the bearings down the block. Pull it, clean threads, apply sealant of choice and reinstall... Or just ignore it which is what I would do. Free rust prevention. The big freeze plug on the other side is likely the cam bore end plug. I'd definitely leave that alone.
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Mar 8, 2022 08:55
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Oh, yeah, all we’re doing is pulling and resealing it. You guessed correctly on what they are, too. It’s just that I couldn’t get a 12mm hex-anything at 7pm and our makeshift ‘turn a bolt upside down and weld a nut on it’ tool failed because we somehow don’t have any spare 12mm-head bolts long enough to get a good bead.
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Mar 8, 2022 08:58
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That really stinks. And it had to be the one size you can't substitute imperial, too.
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Mar 8, 2022 09:09
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Advent Horizon posted:First things first - Happy Birthday sharkytm!  Thanks dude! Even if your back is against the wall, you know you're doing it right and won't need to chase "drat PO" issues in the future.
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Mar 8, 2022 13:55
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I borrowed a friend’s welder and my father in law REALLY didn’t like it. I cannot emphasize enough how much he hates that welder. You may get some idea how much he hated it by the following picture:  He hated it enough that he bought me a better one. Happy Birthday to me! Needed to test it on something so he got that exhaust manifold hole dealt with:  That plug finished stripping the threads before we pounded it the rest of the way in and tacked to hold. The plug is forced in a good half-inch so hopefully it won’t leak. Then we got the transmission into place for test fitment of the crossmember:  We did a lot of measuring and fiddling to make sure it was all straight. The write-ups online? “Just lift the crossmember up until it touches the frame, then weld it.” That sure sounds like a way to get bad driveline vibrations to us so probably half an hour was spent centering. We lost an hour and a half to the transmission mount. The bolts holes don’t line up and we could not get them caressed enough to work. This is the one aftermarket mount I could find; guess I’ll have to step up to the $200 Toyota mount now. We at least got it secured enough to test-fit the crossmember for pre-welding.  We then repositioned it, tacked in place, removed the crossmember, and pulled the transmission back out. That left the most possible room underneath to weld these bastards:  The welding was done at 5:50pm; they had to be at the airport at 7pm. Just enough time for a shower and McDonald’s on the way. FIL really went over and above with his help the last few days. All the write-ups online show people doing this swap on gravel and say ‘3-4 days’. We just did four solid days of work and at this point I can at least see light in the tunnel, even if it’s just a tiny speck a mile away.
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Mar 9, 2022 06:19
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What a roller coaster. At first I was like "that guy sucks, loving with all your projects when you aren't around" and then he goes and hooks you up with a welder and goes down to the wire for you. That's pretty awesome.  I missed exactly what the swap was among the oil filter chat. Auto to manual? I'm not real familiar with these vehicles but a giant trans and a tiny one make me think so. Is the trans from a stock manual version of this truck or from something else? Either way, nice work. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 9, 2022 12:41
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Suburban Dad posted:What a roller coaster. At first I was like "that guy sucks, loving with all your projects when you aren't around" and then he goes and hooks you up with a welder and goes down to the wire for you. That's pretty awesome. Yeah, auto to manual. Dude, your FiL is awesome. I wish mine was half as useful or motivated.
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Mar 9, 2022 15:10
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It is almost like in-laws aren't always as terrible as they are depicted on TV. Secret: I like spending time with my wife's family more than I like spending time with my own.
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Mar 9, 2022 15:50
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Suburban Dad posted:What a roller coaster. At first I was like "that guy sucks, loving with all your projects when you aren't around" and then he goes and hooks you up with a welder and goes down to the wire for you. That's pretty awesome. Down to the…welding wire?  From 1981-87 Toyota sold the FJ60 in the USA as a utilitarian SUV with a carburetor and 4-speed manual transmission. For 1988-90 they updated it to the FJ62 with power everything, a refreshed body/interior, fuel injection, and an automatic transmission. I’m replacing that automatic with the non-USA 5-speed to get the best of all worlds. As you can see, it’s not quite a bolt-in job.
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Mar 9, 2022 17:31
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