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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Hadlock posted:

Why is a metric horsepower a weight lifted one meter in one second against one G.... But the weight is 75kg? Why 75kg? Why not 1, 10 or 100kg?

Prior to the metric HP, the French used the poncelet, which was the same measurement but used 100kg

Using 100kg you also come up with a number that's almost exactly 2% away from 1kw (980.665 watt)

75kg is such an odd number to settle on for such an important measure :psyduck:



Horsepower is a measure of...power, and the SI unit for power is the watt, so a metric horsepower would have to be defined in terms of a watt.

One imperial or US customary horsepower is around 750 watts, so setting the metric horsepower figure to that number makes it roughly equivalent to the old figure. One possible way of defining 750 watts would be lifting 75 kg one meter per second against gravity, sure. But the definition is not based on any specific mechanical task.

You could equivalently ask "why is the metric horsepower equal to 10 amps passing through a 7.5 ohm load?" That also makes it sound weird, but again, it's just 750 watts.

As to why they didn't make it 1000 watts so it's nice and even: we already have a word for that (a kilowatt), so duplicating it is kinda pointless, and it would just be confusing when people started talking about horsepower. By making it close to the imperial measure, you can use them mostly interchangeably when bragging about cars or whatever.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Mar 7, 2022

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Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Think about the name...
Edit. Was slow to reply :v:

G1mby
Jun 8, 2014
Thanks folks, that's all very useful

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

G1mby posted:

I'm looking at getting a first car and I have been offered a Mazda 2 by a family member. It has however been sitting outside unused for about 4 years. Does anyone have any experience resurrecting one after so long sitting unused? It was apparently in full working order when parked up but I don't think anything was done to prepare it. South Wales if it's relevant.

You already got some good answers. I'll probably have to do something similar with the Opel Omega that's been at my parent's place for years. They can't sell it for any reasonable amount in this condition, and obviously it's not usable either. We started and moved it maybe 2 years ago and it's been sitting still since then. It was running pretty rough so I'm thinking maybe to siphon the old fuel out, do all the fluids. Brakes felt a bit spongy last time. I assume once it's running, some issues from sitting so long will begin to reveal themselves.

If you want to kill some time, there are some youtube channels dealing with starting cars after years of sitting, so you can see what might come up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aa6dtfltxSo

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I currently drive a 2004 Honda CR-V that sat for about 3.5 years before I started driving it. It was stored outside that entire time. Here is what I did:

New battery.
Check the oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid levels and condition
Air up the tires
Look around for evidence of animal nests. The CR-V was in a suburban driveway, so I didn't find anything. ymmv. Make sure there is nothing in the intake tract.

I know my mom buys 10% ethanol gas all the time, but the fuel thankfully wasn't a problem. I installed the new battery and then pulled the fuse for the fuel pump. I cranked the engine over a little bit to get oil circulating. When I put the fuse for the fuel pump back in the engine fired up immediately.

Stuff I addressed pretty soon after getting it running:
Oil & filter change (as soon as I drove it home)
coolant spill & fill
New wiper blades
New gas cap. The old one had a cracked o-ring and caused an evap CEL
The glass was very dirty on the inside because of outgassing plastic or something
It needed a brake light, but I don't think this was related to the long nap
The radio needed a code, but I just installed a new one with BT

Stuff I did nothing about:
The fuel tank was close to empty when I awoke the CR-V from her slumber. I drove it until there were just fumes in the tank and filled it with regular, no-ethanol gas
The brake discs were very crusty, but after the oil change I just drove around a bunch and let the pads clean the rotors
I was a little concerned about the tires, but they turned out to be fine.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Sagebrush posted:

I assume you mean "timing" lobes cause I have no idea what a toning lobe is, and I assume you mean "integrated into the crankshaft" and "OHV" instead of "IHV" because otherwise your post doesn't make sense to me. So basically you are asking if you could have an engine with the valve lobes built into the crankshaft and driving the valves through pushrods, eliminating the camshaft entirely?

You couldn't do that in a four-stroke engine, because the valve cycle runs at half the rate of the piston cycle. There's no way to build a crankshaft with lobes on it that could operate the valves correctly. At least not without some sort of extremely complicated pushrod mechanism that cycled between two different operations on each revolution, and then you're just back to a geared camshaft in concept but vastly more complicated.

Maybe you could do it in a two-stroke if you made one that had poppet valves for some reason.
I did a terrible job of proof reading my post.

I forgot all about the camshaft spinning at half of crankshaft speed.

Two-stroke with poppet valves you say? Leave it to Mazda to explore crazy designs that are probably unusable because of emissions.

With all the problems engines have these days with timing chain tensioner and timing chain guide failures, I wonder why no automaker has designed an engine with a gear-driven camshaft. GM used gear-driven camshafts on some old inline-six models and on the Iron Duke (which had a micarta cam gear!). Toyota has built tons of engines (1MZ-FE for example) with timing belts that drive one camshaft on each cylinder head and that gear drives the other cam on the head via gears. They know how to diminish/eliminate the gear lash noise (a split gear with sping tension that keeps the gears constantly engaged).

If you're going to be VW/Audi/Ferrari/Alfa and put the timing stuff on the back of the engine why not use gears that might actually hold up for the lifetime of the car (lol 60k miles).

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 7, 2022

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'm going to go with a combination of NVH and rotating mass.

Gear-drive cams are easy when you're dealing with a pushrod engine, since you can put the camshaft near the crankshaft and either drive it directly or you just have a single idler stage between the two. Gear-driven cams on an overhead cam engine are possible, but:



I suspect that to have a service life of longer than a cam belt, you'd have to stick with something like hardened steel for the gears, and that's going to be a lot more mass than a belt or even a chain. More bearings that can fail, more parts that need reliable lubrication.

And NVH - a lot of the gear-drive conversions you can find for domestic V8s are so loving loud that they can be mistaken for supercharger whine. There are "quiet" versions but you know what else is quiet? The dirt-cheap and readily available chain setup the engine comes with.

Automakers simply don't care that a car might need a timing belt at 100k or a chain somewhere between 150k and 200k. The original owner almost certainly isn't going to own it long enough for either of those to occur, or maybe they'll get to the first timing belt interval. Timing chains used to be considered a "life of the engine" component but that was also when an engine was considered worn out at 100k miles.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

IOwnCalculus posted:

I'm going to go with a combination of NVH and rotating mass.

Gear-drive cams are easy when you're dealing with a pushrod engine, since you can put the camshaft near the crankshaft and either drive it directly or you just have a single idler stage between the two. Gear-driven cams on an overhead cam engine are possible, but:



I suspect that to have a service life of longer than a cam belt, you'd have to stick with something like hardened steel for the gears, and that's going to be a lot more mass than a belt or even a chain. More bearings that can fail, more parts that need reliable lubrication.

And NVH - a lot of the gear-drive conversions you can find for domestic V8s are so loving loud that they can be mistaken for supercharger whine. There are "quiet" versions but you know what else is quiet? The dirt-cheap and readily available chain setup the engine comes with.

Automakers simply don't care that a car might need a timing belt at 100k or a chain somewhere between 150k and 200k. The original owner almost certainly isn't going to own it long enough for either of those to occur, or maybe they'll get to the first timing belt interval. Timing chains used to be considered a "life of the engine" component but that was also when an engine was considered worn out at 100k miles.
That engine is like clockwork art. What is it?

For a hypothetical twin-cam inline engine, how far off are the costs of:

three cam sprockets
at least one hydraulic tensioner
the timing chain itself
several chain guides
the chain itself

Compared to:
three cam gears plus gear(s) (two?) to reach from the crank to one of the cams

Timing belts are as good as dead. The only mainstream engine I can think of that still uses a timing belt is the Honda J V-6. Pretty much everything else has a timing chain because consumers are scared to death of timing belt maintenance. Comparison between gear-driven cams and belt-driven cams is pretty much irrelevant at this point. Personally I think timing belts are great. Replace every 60-100K miles, keep on trucking. Replace the cam and crank seals maybe every other belt change.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

PBCrunch posted:

That engine is like clockwork art. What is it?
Reverse image search says it's a Ferrari Enzo. Although apparently later revisions have been used in quite a few vehicles.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_F140_engine

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Reverse image search says Ferrari Enzo, which certainly aligns with zero fucks given about cost control, longevity, or NVH.

The new Duramax 3.0 in the fullsize GM trucks/SUVs uses a timing belt mounted on the back of the engine that requires the transmission to be removed to service it at 150k miles. Yeah, not a mainstream engine, but not super-niche either given how hard GM is pushing that.

One other thing that just jumped to mind as "problematic but in a niche way" - how does a gear-drive timing set like that handle a rebuild where the heads or block have to be decked? That's one big plus of a chain/belt, the tensioner can accommodate that a bit, but with just a straight gear drive now you're impacting gear lash. At least on a pushrod engine the cam and crank will never move in relation to each other.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

IOwnCalculus posted:

Reverse image search says Ferrari Enzo, which certainly aligns with zero fucks given about cost control, longevity, or NVH.

The new Duramax 3.0 in the fullsize GM trucks/SUVs uses a timing belt mounted on the back of the engine that requires the transmission to be removed to service it at 150k miles. Yeah, not a mainstream engine, but not super-niche either given how hard GM is pushing that.

One other thing that just jumped to mind as "problematic but in a niche way" - how does a gear-drive timing set like that handle a rebuild where the heads or block have to be decked? That's one big plus of a chain/belt, the tensioner can accommodate that a bit, but with just a straight gear drive now you're impacting gear lash. At least on a pushrod engine the cam and crank will never move in relation to each other.

Perhaps there is some play within the gears themselves to accommodate being slightly closer together Or some adjustability with position. Do they really need to be in a specific spot as long as they mesh enough and turn the other gear(s) at the proper speed?

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Has anyone ever heard of an aftermarket TPMS "controller" that connects to some legit TPMS sensors (Denso for example) for the purpose of adding TPMS functionality to an older vehicle or trailer? I see lots of TPMS units on Amazon that I would never ever trust. Does anyone make a legitimate TPMS add-on system?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Heavy million mile truck engines are all gear driven cam-in-block



They have adjustment plates under the idlers to adjust backlash. I can't imagine how you could do it with that complex of a gear set or after decking a head.



OS Giken makes timing gear sets for datsuns



Also, I saw the car that F140 engine is out of on the highway here quite a number of years ago and i'll never not bring that up when that picture comes up. It was an MC12 that was being built into a Corsa clone. It probably had 80,000kms+ on it by the time of that rebuild. He was going considerably faster than the vehicle i was in was capable of.



More pics of the timing stuff:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.281140241930808.74445.234128699965296&type=3


IOwnCalculus posted:

The new Duramax 3.0 in the fullsize GM trucks/SUVs uses a timing belt mounted on the back of the engine that requires the transmission to be removed to service it at 150k miles. Yeah, not a mainstream engine, but not super-niche either given how hard GM is pushing that.

The duramax actually still uses timing chains with plastic guides on the back of the engine. The transmission-out belt service only drives the oil pump. So that's how all of those are going to die. "duramax chevy 1500, runs and drives just needs oil pump belt, $30 part, no lowballers"

Powershift fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Mar 7, 2022

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PBCrunch posted:

Has anyone ever heard of an aftermarket TPMS "controller" that connects to some legit TPMS sensors (Denso for example) for the purpose of adding TPMS functionality to an older vehicle or trailer? I see lots of TPMS units on Amazon that I would never ever trust. Does anyone make a legitimate TPMS add-on system?

I want to say ryanrs found something at Summit that works with Ford-style sensors.

wesleywillis posted:

Do they really need to be in a specific spot as long as they mesh enough and turn the other gear(s) at the proper speed?

When you want gears to last "life of the engine" / "life of the vehicle", yeah. Thousandths of an inch matter.

Powershift posted:

Heavy million mile truck engines are all gear driven cam-in-block

Also a scenario where noise isn't a concern, and any increase in weight and purchase cost is offset by the lower maintenance costs on an engine going a million miles or more. Nobody's building a car engine to go a million miles between overhauls, or even a million miles period.

Powershift posted:

The duramax actually still uses timing chains with plastic guides on the back of the engine. The transmission-out belt service only drives the oil pump. So that's how all of those are going to die. "duramax chevy 1500, runs and drives just needs oil pump belt, $30 part, no lowballers"

I didn't know the rest was chains. I personally don't get the rage about it being on the back of the engine. It's probably quicker to pull the transmission out of a fullsize truck than it is to drain the antifreeze, recover the refrigerant, and strip everything off the front of a modern engine.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

IOwnCalculus posted:


When you want gears to last "life of the engine" / "life of the vehicle", yeah. Thousandths of an inch matter.


Point taken, but I don't mean that the teeth "just need to touch to 'work' properly", I;m saying that however the gears mount to the block can have some adjustability to account for the cam gears and crank gears being a few thousandths closer. In the past, people regularly turned nuts, bolts and jam nuts a fraction of a fraction of an inch to adjust valves, carburetors, and distributors/ignition timing and differential gears. Surely a manufacturer can add a spec somewhere in there for "head or block machined by X amount, adjust timing idler gears to spec Y". It seems like any competent manufacturer could do that.

Or they could just be all like "gently caress you bro, no rebuilds, give us money, buy new engine". At which point the aftermarket responds with slightly thicker gaskets?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I have a nissan versa 2010 hatchback with way too many miles, and I don't have the money to replace it. It's gotta last me until the heat death of the universe /s. Anyways it's got me thinking:

Currently I just use the one 12v plug in the car to power two phones and a bluetooth dongle that's plugged into the aux port. This seems to fast charge two phones and the tiny dongle. Great.

However, it's right next to the parking brake, and the GF keeps putting goddamn poo poo on top of it, which bends any cables coming out, of course. It is seemingly not possible to avoid this because it's in a "put bag down" high priority area.

The other, more important consideration is that I'd like to plug in more objects, like charge the phone AND run a dash-cam kind of thing.

What I'd like to do instead is shut that poo poo off, and install maybe 2-4 cigarette lighter ports somewhere else instead.

I'm fine at this point with dremeling a hole in the interior where these could go instead, but my question ultimately would be, how much leeway would I have without putting undue stress on the alternator? I don't really know how close to the wire these things are as it is with power delivery.

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Mar 8, 2022

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

brake

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
The load from a few phones and dashcams would be pretty negligible unless you're using these new 45w fast chargers. If you keep that in mind, there should be no issue. You could also skip the cigarette lighter ports and hook up a few of these instead:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I have a nissan versa 2010 hatchback with way too many miles, and I don't have the money to replace it. It's gotta last me until the heat death of the universe /s. Anyways it's got me thinking:

Currently I just use the one 12v plug in the car to power two phones and a bluetooth dongle that's plugged into the aux port. This seems to fast charge two phones and the tiny dongle. Great.

However, it's right next to the parking brake, and the GF keeps putting goddamn poo poo on top of it, which bends any cables coming out, of course. It is seemingly not possible to avoid this because it's in a "put bag down" high priority area.

The other, more important consideration is that I'd like to plug in more objects, like charge the phone AND run a dash-cam kind of thing.

What I'd like to do instead is shut that poo poo off, and install maybe 2-4 cigarette lighter ports somewhere else instead.

I'm fine at this point with dremeling a hole in the interior where these could go instead, but my question ultimately would be, how much leeway would I have without putting undue stress on the alternator? I don't really know how close to the wire these things are as it is with power delivery.

im not smart but couldn't you use right angle cables to prevent them from being bent

that seems a hell of a lot easier

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



GreenBuckanneer posted:

I have a nissan versa 2010 hatchback ...

What I'd like to do instead is shut that poo poo off, and install maybe 2-4 cigarette lighter ports somewhere else instead.

I'm fine at this point with dremeling a hole in the interior where these could go instead, but my question ultimately would be, how much leeway would I have without putting undue stress on the alternator? I don't really know how close to the wire these things are as it is with power delivery.

I had an '08 Versa. You could put something in the cubby, but there aren't a whole lot of places to open the dash for a surface-mounted USB cluster that also don't have wires hanging down over your controls.

As noted, you won't be overloading the alternator.

May I suggest trying (as noted) a right-angle lighter plug that runs to a cupholder power distribution, and put it up front under the console? That keeps everything nice and low, the purse won't unplug it and you can get ones with a number of USB ports:

https://www.amazon.com/Skyocean-Cig...ps%2C148&sr=8-2

or

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-HVD...ps%2C122&sr=8-4

already have the angled plug

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Mar 8, 2022

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Getting a car shipped from west coast to east coast

Getting an enclosed carrier to haul it to the east coast, the nearest they'll drop it off is about 375 miles away because the destination is in the middle of loving nowhere. Going with an enclosed carrier to avoid rock chips etc as it's a classic car with a professional paint job

Can I just get a U-Haul car trailer and toss a car cover on it and haul it down country roads the last 375 miles (about a 6 hour drive on the interstate) or is the car cover going to gently caress up the paint flapping around or what do I do here

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I would absolutely expect a car cover to do more harm than good there, just from the flapping, and they're not meant to hold up to that kind of wind.

Semi-serious suggestion, plastic wrap? I've seen photos of shops using it instead of traditional fender liners, and that seems like it might offer enough protection. Otherwise, see if anyone remotely nearby will rent you an enclosed car hauler.

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?
Why not use the same 3M protective adhesive film that manufacturers use? It’s available on Amazon. Cover the outermost portions and peel it off when you get home.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Oh interesting, going down the "clear car bra" rabbit hole, I found some stuff called "road warrior" it's some water soluble goop you paint on your car, then when you get where you're going, spray it with water and it peels off? $45 for enough to coat the car twice over. Supposedly doesn't damage the paint at all

Also halfway entertaining buying some of the cheapest colored vinyl car wrap on Amazon and making the car cherry red

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

2005 Matrix threw some evap codes at me.

Most importantly, it's throwing both a gross leak and an incorrect purge flow code. Am I safe in assuming this is probably the purge solenoid causing most of this?

Of note, it does have the original gas cap, and I do have a new OEM one on the way - but I don't see a gas cap causing a purge code.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Hadlock posted:

Oh interesting, going down the "clear car bra" rabbit hole, I found some stuff called "road warrior" it's some water soluble goop you paint on your car, then when you get where you're going, spray it with water and it peels off? $45 for enough to coat the car twice over. Supposedly doesn't damage the paint at all

Also halfway entertaining buying some of the cheapest colored vinyl car wrap on Amazon and making the car cherry red

a TA is supposed to be black, this is like the only time i will ever support black cars

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

a TA is supposed to be black, this is like the only time i will ever support black cars

I like my A4s and 3 Series in black, that’s pretty standard, what’s your preferred colors for those?

Not counting M cars since you can get a lot more spicy.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Inner Light posted:

I like my A4s and 3 Series in black, that’s pretty standard, what’s your preferred colors for those?

Not counting M cars since you can get a lot more spicy.

my E36 is Boston Green and it rules, absolutely stellar color

All the 3 series blues and reds have been excellent—Estoril Blue is the best of the classic M colors

The blues and oranges that have been available for the M235i and M240i are also :discourse::discourse:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

a TA is supposed to be black, this is like the only time i will ever support black cars

Yeah but the TA is sufficiently small enough, and has a distinct waistline, and of course, fenders, that you can get away with a number of two tone designs, if only for a season or two

Black top and fenders, with deep red below the waistline appears to have been pretty popular, I guess as a taxi in Paris or Burgundy, and then all white with black fenders is an excellent wedding rental

But yeah black with yellow rims is the classic TA

Laguna Seca blue is the best 3 series color :colbert:

Double edit: followed by imperial blue on the 7 series :swoon:

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Mar 9, 2022

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


The passenger side wiper on my 2007 Tacoma just stopped working. From what I can tell, Tacomas use a single motor with a linkage. I'm guessing there's a splined shaft or something in there that stripped on that side. I can easily move it by hand and feel the faintest vibrating resistance as if there's a mechanism rotating around a stationary splined shaft.

Is this something that's easy to replace, or is it possible it just needs tightened? It was frozen to my windshield the other day and the motor cycled a couple times before I noticed and shut it off.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Mar 9, 2022

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
blue, red, orange, and green are best BMW colors

black and grey is a blight on the landscape

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

The passenger side wiper on my 2007 Tacoma just stopped working. From what I can tell, Tacomas use a single motor with a linkage. I'm guessing there's a splined shaft or something in there that stripped on that side. I can easily move it by hand and feel the faintest vibrating resistance as if there's a mechanism rotating around a stationary splined shaft.

Is this something that's easy to replace, or is it possible it just needs tightened? It was frozen to my windshield the other day and the motor cycled a couple times before I noticed and shut it off.

A lot of times it's as simple as the (13mm?) nut that holds the arm on backing off. Pop that bottom cover off of the wiper arm, line the wiper up where it should be and tighten it down. It's entirely likely that will solve your problem.

If it doesn't and everything worked the way it was designed to fail the wiper arm itself should be the piece that stripped out leaving the linkage (which is a huge pain in the rear end to change) in good condition. If this is the case just get a new wiper arm from the dealership and install it. Super simple job.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Motronic posted:

A lot of times it's as simple as the (13mm?) nut that holds the arm on backing off. Pop that bottom cover off of the wiper arm, line the wiper up where it should be and tighten it down. It's entirely likely that will solve your problem.

If it doesn't and everything worked the way it was designed to fail the wiper arm itself should be the piece that stripped out leaving the linkage (which is a huge pain in the rear end to change) in good condition. If this is the case just get a new wiper arm from the dealership and install it. Super simple job.

Bitchin, thanks.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Make really sure the nut is all the way tight. I once removed some wiper arms and didn't tighten the nuts enough when I put the arms back on. Result: the partial engagement of the splines caused the inside of the wiper arm to get all stripped out.

Consider some thread locker.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Inner Light posted:

I like my A4s and 3 Series in black, that’s pretty standard, what’s your preferred colors for those?

Not counting M cars since you can get a lot more spicy.

literally anything but black or silver. i had 1 series that was Deep Sea Blue Metallic, that was a good color. I think the A4 looks good in brown, purple, and green, and the 3 series looks good in red and blue. They both look fine in various dark grays.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
if i sell a car private party, and i don’t spent the money on another car that year, i have to report it to the IRS as income right?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Did you sell the car for more than you originally paid for it by some meaningful number?

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

Random q about new Pacifica (brand new, hybrid model): I've got one as a rental. We got a truck stuck yesterday, and while we were waiting on a tow we were looking around the minivan, trying to figure out where you'd hook up a tow strap/cable should it ever need same. No hooks, and nothing obvious undercarriage. No little plate covering an insert sunk into the bumper where you thread one of those eye hook thingies. Anyone know?

Also, the Ford (2020 f250 super duty diesel) that got stuck has a pause between gear shifting to forward and reverse, so we couldn't rock it fast enough to keep momentum. Like there's an electronic shift? I dunno, but it was annoying. We've got a lot of experience getting vehicles unstuck so it was a good ego check.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

pumped up for school posted:

Also, the Ford (2020 f250 super duty diesel) that got stuck has a pause between gear shifting to forward and reverse, so we couldn't rock it fast enough to keep momentum. Like there's an electronic shift? I dunno, but it was annoying. We've got a lot of experience getting vehicles unstuck so it was a good ego check.

Use the brakes.

Back, jam the brakes on, change, forward, jam the brakes, change, back, jam the brakes and so on.

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

pumped up for school posted:

Random q about new Pacifica (brand new, hybrid model): I've got one as a rental. We got a truck stuck yesterday, and while we were waiting on a tow we were looking around the minivan, trying to figure out where you'd hook up a tow strap/cable should it ever need same. No hooks, and nothing obvious undercarriage. No little plate covering an insert sunk into the bumper where you thread one of those eye hook thingies. Anyone know?


I imagine a tow driver would get a big tow hook around one of the control arms.

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