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Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Think of how many tools you could have bought for that $450.

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Motronic posted:

Sure there are bad idea things you can put on the end of a drill. Not only are they an ergonomic nightmare to use but also paint buffers don't just spin.

A drill and some attachment just isn't a reasonable substitute for a buffer.

So I should get this instead? https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-10-in-Orbital-Buffer-Tool-Only-P435/205975768

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I have a Ryobi drill (and a ryobi multi-tool)

I see tools out there you can use to clean the car with, such as a buffer,sander kind of thing.

Is there an attachment I could use for the drill instead?

I was thinking like a sponge type thing I could use to like wash the car with and rub/polish etc without buying a whole new tool for it.

this is not a thing you want to do. you will damage your car's finish.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


Wow that is incredibly inexpensive. And it might be able to do the job. Depends on if you can get the right pads for it or not.

I'd suggest dropping by the AI detailing thread. Just reading the OP got me mostly set up with a buffer/pads/materials that I've been using for.....wow, a really long time now with great success.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Motronic posted:

Wow that is incredibly inexpensive. And it might be able to do the job. Depends on if you can get the right pads for it or not.

I'd suggest dropping by the AI detailing thread. Just reading the OP got me mostly set up with a buffer/pads/materials that I've been using for.....wow, a really long time now with great success.

Yeah all the tools for ryobi are super inexpensive, it's just the batteries. I remember back in the day my dad would piss and moan about his cordless tools but so far I haven't had a single complaint about ryobi, and so far Ryobi has been the goon recommendation elsewhere.

I didn't see there was a detailing thread, I'll check it out, thanks.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009




If this even remotely works, I’m feeling less bad about getting the Ryobi battery their cordless glue gun.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Dr. Habibi posted:

If this even remotely works, I’m feeling less bad about getting the Ryobi battery their cordless glue gun.

Honestly I want that because it'd give me an excuse to use the batteries more often :cripes:

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Yeah all the tools for ryobi are super inexpensive, it's just the batteries. I remember back in the day my dad would piss and moan about his cordless tools but so far I haven't had a single complaint about ryobi, and so far Ryobi has been the goon recommendation elsewhere.

I didn't see there was a detailing thread, I'll check it out, thanks.

Nearly all of the newer power tools are pretty decent. Lithium ion batteries have really changed the game. With the latest generation of high output batteries I would even use a cordless saw or sander.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
HD has deals on the batteries pretty often.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
That $35 Ryobi gadget will help you put wax on some paint, but you will need something with considerably more giddy up if you want to do paint correction.

I don't know if their machine is state of the art or not, but Griot's Garage support after the sale is great. I've heard Harbor Freight's corded dual-action polisher works pretty well for $100.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Rhyno posted:

Think of how many tools you could have bought for that $450.

So it's best to spend $900?

giundy
Dec 10, 2005
I'm going to be that jerk who doesn't read the thread, assuming this has been covered.

Is there a good <$700 bi-directional scan tool that will work for Nissan body control modules? Bonus if it does TMPS and key programming on other brands.

Amazon reviews are a shitshow here, and everything else online is just a "TEN BEST BUY THROUGH OUR LINK" garbage review site.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

giundy posted:

Is there a good <$700 bi-directional scan tool that will work for Nissan body control modules? Bonus if it does TMPS and key programming on other brands.

What do you mean bi-directional? You're scanning/resetting or you're programming. Those are two different classes of tools.

And TPMS is a separate thing entirely and I've not seen (nor do I want) it in the same tool. Key programming is a poo poo show, deeply manufacturer specific and unlikely to be found in anything that isn't bootleg unless you are a legit dealer.

If you're looking for a scanner that does OBD2/SRS/ABS for multiple brands the Autel AL619 is still my go-to. If you want a programmer/coding you likely nee to be looking for something Nissan specific.

It might help if you say what you are trying to do here. Other than suggest you want to buy a 4 figure Snap On tool that requires 4 more figures of licensing. Which I bet you both don't want to do and isn't really what you need at all when you look at your realistic use cases.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Rhyno posted:

HD has deals on the batteries pretty often.

The only deals I would really want are the 6Ah high performance batteries for when I finally buy myself one of their leaf blowers, cause that's like $130 just for a single battery. I already have a 2Ah and a regular 4Ah pair from buying the multitool and regular drill.

PBCrunch posted:

That $35 Ryobi gadget will help you put wax on some paint, but you will need something with considerably more giddy up if you want to do paint correction.

I don't know if their machine is state of the art or not, but Griot's Garage support after the sale is great. I've heard Harbor Freight's corded dual-action polisher works pretty well for $100.

Thankfully I don't think I need any paint correction.

The only thing I'd want to do for this aging car is maybe put some underbody rust coating for super cheap and or maybe paint over it a different color (but that's a conversation for a different thread probably)

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!

Motronic posted:

What do you mean bi-directional? You're scanning/resetting or you're programming. Those are two different classes of tools.

And TPMS is a separate thing entirely and I've not seen (nor do I want) it in the same tool. Key programming is a poo poo show, deeply manufacturer specific and unlikely to be found in anything that isn't bootleg unless you are a legit dealer.

If you're looking for a scanner that does OBD2/SRS/ABS for multiple brands the Autel AL619 is still my go-to. If you want a programmer/coding you likely nee to be looking for something Nissan specific.

It might help if you say what you are trying to do here. Other than suggest you want to buy a 4 figure Snap On tool that requires 4 more figures of licensing. Which I bet you both don't want to do and isn't really what you need at all when you look at your realistic use cases.

Bi-directional means you can read data from the car but also send commands to actuate things for example.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Frank Dillinger posted:

Bi-directional means you can read data from the car but also send commands to actuate things for example.

Ummmm. Any scanner that can clear codes is "bi-directional". It sends the command to clear the codes, and clearly receives data.

There's a huuuuuge difference between a $20 scan tool and a fully-featured dealer/SnapOn tool. Both are bi-directional. Saying "bi-directional" doesn't mean anything without more details.

If you want a tool that can do a lot of the dealer-only stuff, check out AutoEnginuity. I have one from my old GMC truck. It could do ABS bleeds, do a crank position sensor learn, all that stuff.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!
Scanners marketing “bi-directional” as a feature are able to actuate components on a vehicle for testing purposes unless I’m mistaken. ie, tell the car to open the sunroof or whatever to see if the motor works and rule out a bad switch.

I think? I dunno man, I’ve been wrong before.

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012

Dr. Habibi posted:

If this even remotely works, I’m feeling less bad about getting the Ryobi battery their cordless glue gun.

Their cordless caulk gun? It works awesome, a little too awesome even on the lowest setting. The battery took a poo poo for mine though and a replacement costs more than what I paid for the set

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yeah I've got that caulking gun and it was a life saver on my shower surround install when I needed to apply like 8 to 10 tubes of stiff rear end adhesive in a few minutes. I originally bought it because it was capable of running 2 part concrete anchor epoxy and fully intended to just keep it super clean and return it after but decided to keep it after using it once.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Frank Dillinger posted:

I have the big EGO blower (730CFM?) and it zaps you when you use it in the snow, which is not great, would not recommend. Having the power button directly run the current for the motor seems like an odd choice to me.

My DeWalt 60V blower turns the snow into a vortex of electrical pain. 0/10, do not recommend using an electric leaf blower with snow.

builds character posted:

Anyone have a recommendation for cheap transmission jack other than harbor freight? I need to drop the fuel tank on the van and all the advice I've read says use a transmission jack + some wood under it to make the job easy.

Just needs to hold/lift like maybe 100 lbs? Not a transmission.

The HF scissor jack is good to about 200 pounds (450 pound rating my rear end) if you can keep it centered. For anything offset the HF 800 pound hydraulic jack works great and has tilt functionality. The hydraulic jack has a larger footprint (good for stability, bad for storage) and is occasionally on sale for only a few bucks more than the scissor jack.

From what you said of this project, the scissor should work fine. If you ever plan to use it for something else, and can store it, I would step up to the hydraulic transmission jack.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Apparently my 3/8 drill doesn't quite have enough torque for certain applications. I took the seat out of my car but it took some elbow grease the old fashioned way.

Seems I "need" an "impact wrench" tool in the future (especially if I don't want to have to spin the cross brace when changing tires and such very tight bolts)

There's so many options though but how about this one?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-8-in-3-Speed-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P263/308182766

Seems cheap and I really only want something to use on the car and maybe something around the house at times

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Mar 10, 2022

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


2 things:

1. 1/4” impact drivers aren’t exactly potent. I’ve had good luck with mine but I also have a 1/2” and there is a huge capability difference. That said, if it’s for occasional use (ahahahaha - impacts are not ‘occasional use’) the 1/4” can just run and run until things happen.

2. Impact sockets are different than chrome sockets. Chrome sockets can shatter when they break, impact sockets aren’t supposed to do that. This is a safety issue.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I seem to have quoted the wrong thing, it's an "impact wrench" not an "impact driver" which is slightly confusing...

Anyways I updated the link above

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012
At 220lbs you may as well get a hex keyed tool that has way more versatility with similar lbs of torque. I guess it would be the impact driver?

Ps;I mean wrench. You know the thing with the hex

Ps;. Well, after further research and rereading. At the price point ryobi is asking for some of their higher level impacts tools, you may want to look at red or yellow impact tools (Milwaukee or dewalt or other recommendations). Its slightly more price wise, but the performance point is well over anything I'm seeing ryobi may have in their line up for certain applications.

Munkeylord fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 10, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Munkeylord posted:

At 220lbs you may as well get a hex keyed tool that has way more versatility with similar lbs of torque. I guess it would be the impact driver?

I mean wrench. You know the thing with the hex

so get this one instead?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-Speed-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687

I wouldn't be using it very often; changing a tire, trying more to do my own repairs as needed on the car, etc

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I think there are some impact "drivers" (the hex connection ones) that are 7/16" hex now, so they probably have more torque than the 1/4" ones.
As for the ryobi above, its might be ok, but 220 ftlbs isn't that much. I have a 1/2" drive corded one with 300 and something ft lbs and it sometimes has trouble getting nuts and bolts off, including lug nuts after my car has been serviced and the guys cranked them on with their impact guns. Typically the other nuts it can't bust (heh) are rusty so maybe it could if they weren't but they are and it can't.

I don't know if its still the current 1/2" drive champ, but I got the Milwaukee nut fucker 5000, and thus far it has laughed at anything I've thrown at it, including some lug nuts on medium duty trucks that are torqued to 400+ ft lbs.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Mar 10, 2022

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012

GreenBuckanneer posted:

so get this one instead?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-Speed-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P261/205885687

I wouldn't be using it very often; changing a tire, trying more to do my own repairs as needed on the car, etc

That may be more ideal for basic maintenance. I'd wait for some other input from people.
That may not break a tire free by itself, but it will be simple to put back on

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





To be clear - "impact wrench for lug nuts on cars" is not going to have much use around the house unless you're sinking lag screws on a regular basis. If you want one that will take care of lug nuts and similarly-torqued fasteners on cars, you probably want https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-4-Mode-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P262/314109271 at minimum.

And yes, I'd recommend using a 1/4" hex impact driver of some sort for house-style driving jobs, though those can also handle a lot of the lower-torque small fasteners you'll find on cars. But then you might want a compact 3/8" impact for those in-betweens, and maybe a right-angle impact or just a power ratchet, and, and, and...

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 10, 2022

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I have one of these bad boys for when I really need to break something off. Needed when working on old desert junkers.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-cordless-12-in-xtreme-torque-impact-wrench-kit-with-40-ah-battery-fast-charger-and-case-64195.html

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012

IOwnCalculus posted:

right-angle impact

The only right angle impact I know of and want is from Milwaukee. Are there other right angle impacts out yet?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Munkeylord posted:

That may be more ideal for basic maintenance. I'd wait for some other input from people.
That may not break a tire free by itself, but it will be simple to put back on

I assume I could probably just elbow grease it with a breaker bar and some wd40 if the wrench couldn't do some random nut that happened to be rusted, but at best the only other things I'm gonna need to do soon on my car is probably replace the sway links, rear break line, and replacing the break pads.

IOwnCalculus posted:

To be clear - "impact wrench for lug nuts on cars" is not going to have much use around the house unless you're sinking lag screws on a regular basis. If you want one that will take care of lug nuts and similarly-torqued fasteners on cars, you probably want https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-4-Mode-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P262/314109271 at minimum.

Any reason for the brushless? it's more money than the non-brushless. It's lighter?

Munkeylord posted:

Its slightly more price wise, but the performance point is well over anything I'm seeing ryobi may have in their line up for certain applications.

It's also new tools and new batteries for me at this point, I honestly can't see myself working on anything more than a well worn sedan type of cars in the future, and not anything more than self-maintenence kind of workload. I'd have to think of a way to justify a different brand that's much more expensive i guess.

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Mar 10, 2022

TWBalls
Apr 16, 2003
My medication never lies

Munkeylord posted:

The only right angle impact I know of and want is from Milwaukee. Are there other right angle impacts out yet?

Wrench or driver? Here's a couple of comparison videos from Torque Test Channel:

Driver:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcgV0KtnW74

Wrench:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cgw99dFjvrk

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012
A nice HF breaker bar and a hex impact would probably suit your needs in your battery choice. The impact gun with a 1/4 hex adapter will likely replace all your hand tools and your current drill due to its versatility on common applications. I have a dewalt set, and a drill. I've rarely used the drill, but the 1/4 impact is dirty and very used. Everything from mounting wall anchors for dog gates and shelves to pulling off motor mounts and removing oil pan screws

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012

TWBalls posted:

Wrench or driver? Here's a couple of comparison videos from Torque Test Channel:

Driver:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcgV0KtnW74

Wrench:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cgw99dFjvrk

Ooo thank you

Going with blue lol

Munkeylord fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 10, 2022

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
That M18 1/4 hex right angle is hilariously weak compared to the current gen normal form factor impact. I end up using it a lot for doing stupid bullshit at work but the noise it makes/time it takes driving a framing screw into a horrible, inaccessible corner is really something.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Any reason for the brushless? it's more money than the non-brushless. It's lighter?

It's also new tools and new batteries for me at this point, I honestly can't see myself working on anything more than a well worn sedan type of cars in the future, and not anything more than self-maintenence kind of workload. I'd have to think of a way to justify a different brand that's much more expensive i guess.
Brushless gives more power and better battery life in cordless tools, and usually indicates a higher-end product. In this case, the brushless model provides about twice as much power. Either is fine on lug nuts, but you'd need the brushless for something like an axle nut. An impact driver is more generally useful, but an impact wrench is great for bigger fasteners (like wheels).

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

heffray posted:

Brushless gives more power and better battery life in cordless tools, and usually indicates a higher-end product. In this case, the brushless model provides about twice as much power. Either is fine on lug nuts, but you'd need the brushless for something like an axle nut. An impact driver is more generally useful, but an impact wrench is great for bigger fasteners (like wheels).

Plus a big impact wrench is one of the most satisfying tools. Just push button, remove head of fastener.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!

Munkeylord posted:

The only right angle impact I know of and want is from Milwaukee. Are there other right angle impacts out yet?

The right angle impact is a very niche tool IMO. it’s not much more compact than any of the stubby impacts and those are much better tools. Unless you have a specific use case/need, skip it for now.

If you are buying only 1 power tool for everything, I’d agree with the breaker bar and impact driver with a 1/4” or 3/8” adapter for now. Then maybe a ratchet in the future for tight spaces and a big impact for the tight stuff.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Frank Dillinger posted:

If you are buying only 1 power tool for everything, I’d agree with the breaker bar and impact driver with a 1/4” or 3/8” adapter for now. Then maybe a ratchet in the future for tight spaces and a big impact for the tight stuff.

This is honestly a pretty good combo. My Makita impact driver had no problem spinning the lug nuts off of my Jeep, and I think it did all of the fasteners on my suspension when I swapped the shocks. A quarter turn with the breaker bar is enough to make any reluctant bolts budge.

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Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



this video feels like it belongs here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0B7EeK054U

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