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The DLC simplifies getting into space considerably (no meteors on starting world, more engine types) and makes both the rockets and space much more interesting. It's a 11/10 DLC review from me 
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Mar 12, 2022 18:39
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Plus the DLC still lets you start on a large asteroid ("classic start") like the base game, just the rocket missions involve actually landing on the other locations and doing stuff instead of them being largely passive resource generators.
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Mar 12, 2022 18:48
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Oh cool. As long as I can have my nice, giant, self-sufficient main base to work outward from. And no more meteors? Well that simplifies solar power massively.
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Mar 12, 2022 18:58
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Hello Sailor posted:Plus the DLC still lets you start on a large asteroid ("classic start") like the base game, just the rocket missions involve actually landing on the other locations and doing stuff instead of them being largely passive resource generators. I really didn't look much into SO! I guess? That classic start thing actually sounds really nice. Also very surprising. I was kinda shying away from it due to the model of smaller colonies that have to... teleport or ship resources to other bases via rocketry. That sounded extremely difficult, splitting one colony across like 7 maps because none of them are large enough or contain all of the resources needed. Which I totally get why they wanted to push for this model. It's way, way more performance friendly having a bunch of separate, smaller maps calculating almost independently. The base game really chugs once you start making large systems that span a quarter of the map and 1000 tons of regolith is piling up.
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Mar 12, 2022 19:42
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It's not that hard in practice, and even easier if you do the classic large-start (which I think simplifies the inner space area) You also always get a teleporter, and a resource teleporter that link to a 'second' asteroid base. You need to send at least one dupe over and then... you will find enough food & stuff to last a week or so, and a cryotank with a stranger in to help when you want. It's kind of like starting a new game, but then you have the resource transporter and you can just attach an oxygen pipe on the main base side, and a pipe on the other side and that's it - you now have oxygen in your secondary base. Same for water and solids have the loader/conveyors in place for you, they just need power on the base side. And you can build a Printing Pod just like the main base so you get new dupes or packages at either. Space-wise, you have a map like this:  My big petrol rocket is off to the green cloud at the top to harvest some more uranium ore. My main base is the grey rock in the middle, I then have 3 crappy inner planets, and one at range 5 - that's the teleport planet. the inner planets are easily reachable with any of the basic rockets, and have pretty much everything that's not on the first 2 planets except for rare stuff. That's on the outer planets, that need late game rockets to get to. I only have one other planet colonised (apart from the secondary), and that's this monstrosity:  That's the metal planet, and all the metal is funnelled to the weird little building on the top left. That's a couple of wheezeworts powering a rad generator to power an Interplanetary Launcher that shoots 200kg a time of cooled stuff back to the main base. All automated. There's a skeleton crew of 2 dupes living off the wild fish and the water from wild arbor trees (and the occasional pokeshell wrangling job). Tho technically, once the aluminium volcano is hooked up to the transporter, I don't even need the dupes here any more. But I don't have room for them on the main base so here they shall stay.
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Mar 12, 2022 20:24
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OzyMandrill posted:The DLC simplifies getting into space considerably (no meteors on starting world, more engine types) and makes both the rockets and space much more interesting. It's a 11/10 DLC review from me You sold me, I bounced off when I got up to the surface and had to dig out and rebuild my observatory every cycle. And that was with blast doors over it hooked to meteor detectors. Felt like I was missing something, but after a meteor destroyed the diamond windows I installed as a second plan, I figured they just hadn't balanced that part yet, or they'd dropped it when they moved on to the DLC.
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Mar 13, 2022 07:20
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Xaiter posted:It's way, way more performance friendly having a bunch of separate, smaller maps calculating almost independently. The base game really chugs once you start making large systems that span a quarter of the map and 1000 tons of regolith is piling up. I have some bad news for you... All the planets are on the same map, you just can't scroll to them. Aka they are side by side. You can sometimes see things happening on the next planet over off the side, like critters doings things. They have done some great work optimizing stuff and the game runs really well considering all the poo poo happening.
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Mar 13, 2022 07:47
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Do SPOM's still work? I thought I heard that they closed a bunch of exploits and I don't know if they got that one or not.
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Mar 14, 2022 01:58
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Travic posted:Do SPOM's still work? I thought I heard that they closed a bunch of exploits and I don't know if they got that one or not. They do. They aren't an exploit, just very cookie cutter because... it's sort of the absolute pinnacle of optimization. Bottom line is costs less power to split the water into O2 and H than energy gained from the H very slightly so long as you don't spend energy on a gas filter. The extra 250w per packet of 500g pushes them into a net loss. They still have a hydrogen deletion bug where if the machie isn't setup perfectly a few grams can be just "erased" when it tries to split a packet of water.
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Mar 14, 2022 13:34
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Ok. I built my bog standard SPOM i used to use and it wasn't quite working so I wasn't sure. I'll keep fiddling with it. Also I noticed my dupes would wince when walking past it and there were green sparklies around the cooling section. Turns out Wheezeworts are radioactive now! Whoopsie.
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Mar 14, 2022 13:43
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Travic posted:Ok. I built my bog standard SPOM i used to use and it wasn't quite working so I wasn't sure. I'll keep fiddling with it. Oof, yeah. I saw that in the SO! changes. That'd turn my cooling block into a death chamber. How the hell are you expected to feed them, by the way? I mean, they want phosphate but if you put too many in an area dupes just cook from radiation, right? Do you just have to encase them in like six tiles of heavy metal and only put a few plants per box to control radiation dosing or what?
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Mar 14, 2022 14:08
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Actively cool, and use them in random small places out the way, or for small radiation sources  You can automate the feeding, and a drecko farm will provide plenty of phosphorite.
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Mar 14, 2022 14:28
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OzyMandrill posted:Actively cool, and use them in random small places out the way, or for small radiation sources Of... course. Why didn't I ever think to use Auto-sweepers for farming errands?! Can't say I'm looking forward to making conveyors, it's something I've actively resisted, but looking at the insane DTUs nuclear poo poo can produce... that's a lot of power. Seems like it's worth the frustration.
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Mar 14, 2022 14:38
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OzyMandrill posted:Actively cool, and use them in random small places out the way, or for small radiation sources Oh dear. I've never figured out active cooling. I just kept the base small and used Wheezeworts. So them being radioactive is quite the blow. I've tried using a Thermo Regulator, but that just seems to heat itself up in a few seconds and stop working. So I have to cool that, then cool the thing that is cooling that, etc. I just end up kicking the can down the road.
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Mar 14, 2022 17:31
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Travic posted:Oh dear. I've never figured out active cooling. I just kept the base small and used Wheezeworts. So them being radioactive is quite the blow. Dupes will pee out 60 rads per cycle (might require toilets vs. outhouses, not sure), so they can handle some radiation without any mitigation. You can also easily make anti-rad pills, which I think just takes coal? and those will remove 100 rads. So, 160 rads per cycle with the application of a bit of coal, so it's quite doable.
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Mar 14, 2022 17:40
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Travic posted:Oh dear. I've never figured out active cooling. I just kept the base small and used Wheezeworts. So them being radioactive is quite the blow. The key is the Thermo Aquatuner. It works just like the Thermo Regulator but you can build it underwater. Then when it heats up the heat will automatically disperse into the water so it can keep running. Eventually the pool will boil and you'll get to learn all about dealing with steam. It's a pretty massive kick of the can, though.
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Mar 14, 2022 17:47
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Travic posted:I've tried using a Thermo Regulator, but that just seems to heat itself up in a few seconds and stop working. So I have to cool that, then cool the thing that is cooling that, etc. I just end up kicking the can down the road. Sounds like you've got a grasp. Devices like Thermo Regulators and Aquatuners only move heat. Stuff like Wheezeworts, AETNs, Steam Turbines, and just venting gases/liquids into space your primary means of erasing heat. I try thinking about it as collecting as much of a resource (heat) from an area as possible and condensing it into one location where I can feed it to my heat deleters. EDIT: an example maybe, put your wheezeworts in a sealed room full of hydrogen gas, then place your Thermo Regulator in there with it. Now you can pump air through it to "cool" it. Kinda like a magic air conditioner that erases the heat, rather than farting it outside. The wheezeworts erase 1.2 kDTU/s worth of heat in hydrogen, so the room will likely get VERY cold, all the way down to -60 C.when the plants stifle themselves. At which point, you could ditch the Thermo Regulator. Pipe your gas to chill through conductive gas pipes in the ice cold hydrogen chamber, out comes cold air for zero energy cost! Xaiter fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 18:10
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Xaiter posted:Sounds like you've got a grasp. I currently have the Wheezeworts in a Hydrogen room, but I don't have a Thermo Regulator in there. I'll see if I can fix that when I get home. I'm reading up on Steam Turbines and they seem really powerful. But they do need to be cooled. It seems like everyone has turbines sitting on top of a steam room being heated by an Aquatuner(s) Can I pass the water that's cooling the turbines through that Aquatuner? That way the heat generated by the Turbines kind of...double dips the Aquatuner?
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Mar 14, 2022 22:04
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That's what a lot of builds do! That's considered an "actively cooled" steam turbine. As you have available, you should use the following coolants in this order: Supercoolant, Nuclear Waste, Polluted Water / Water, Salt Water, Brine, everything else. The aquatuner moves a fixed temperature (14C), and the coolants I listed in that order are harder to heat & cool, so you get more heat moved. You pay the same 1200W no matter what, so moving the most heat should be your goal. You'll likely have polluted water immediately, and it's a decent enough coolant that works down to ~ -7C input temp on the aquatuner (-7C - 14C = -21C which is under the 2C hysteresis of the -20C freezing temp). If you aren't trying to move a ton of heat, you can usually get by with a self-cooled steam turbine. Fill the area behind the turbine with pressurized oxygen (1.8kg), and snake radiant pipes all behind it. I *think* lead works, but iron or gold are better if you can get them. Then, enclose the steam turbine in insulated tiles. If you don't let the steam room go above 135C, the 95C output water of the steam turbine is just enough to take care of the heat the turbine generates. It's hot as hell, but a 99.9C turbine is below the 100C overheat temperature. A gold-amalgam aquatuner with polluted-water coolant, inside a self-cooling steam turbine is enough to cool most bases and fairly inexpensively once everything is at steady-state.
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Mar 14, 2022 22:45
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The only time I've had to actively cool a turbine is when I did a very silly thing to stick a diamond rod into the molten core for power. Didn't work great, but it was a fun exercise. A lot of the second stage of the game is figuring out just how hot you can let refined metal buildings get (and putting them in an insulated chamber).
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Mar 14, 2022 23:26
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Turns out a perfectly self-cooling steam turbine (water exiting at 99.9C with a turbine kept at 99.9C) can operate on just above 140C steam, and delete 292kDTU/s of heat. One steam turbine + gold amalgam aquatuner is doing as much heat deletion as 3x AETNs.
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Mar 15, 2022 00:10
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Massive effort post on POWER AND HEAT! I'll try not to be too spoilery, but I can give an example from my current game. I am trying to set up a fully automated system on a distant asteroid that has a REDACTED that needs food to get REDACTED for REDACTED. So I'm gonna try to auto-grow mushrooms, but it's too drat hot. There's also a metal volcano that I'd quite like the metal from. NOTE: I use the pliers mod a LOT. I also use it to break up pipes into dots when I'm done with them so it's easier to see what's not in use. Power-wise, I have a single solar panel (max about 300W) Looks like this:  So I have a power and cooling problem. I am mostly through the solution - an aquatuner cooling a block of stone, currently sitting in a puddle of pisswater at the bottom right:  Aquatuner: This needs to be inside the steam chamber as it will run between 125-200C usually. The magic is in the pipework and automation, which are pretty simple:  The automation is just a temperature sensor on the SQUARE BEFORE THE INPUT connected to the tuner, and that's it. If the working fluid is above the target temperature, send a green signal, otherwise red. If it is green, then the fluid will follow the blue path and get cooled by 14 degrees, if it sends red, the fluid goes the orange path - the key is that the water never stops flowing! My setup has a more compact piping, but the setup is basically this. You do need to leave a little bit of space in the pipes to account for the path difference of one side or another - basically don't overfill the cooling loop or it will stop. Cooling: It is generally more efficient to let the system work as a concentrator of 'chill' that you distribute (even though its actually heat getting sucked in, but it doesn't actually matter - whichever is easiest for your thought process). So the tuner is chilling this block of material, and then pipes run around the edge and dump heat into it/carry the chill out to the rest of the base. When the system is up and running, it will reach a dynamic equilibrium where all the heat generated in the map is picked up by regular pipes of cool pwater, and brought here, where it gets sucked into this block, and eventually pumped through the aquatuner into the steam. This is why the aquatuner is essentially a heat pump. No heat has been 'deleted' yet - just transported and concentrated. Also note the water container on the main base cooling loop. Having a buffer like this does wonders in smoothing out temperature spikes. Steam Turbines: To work, steam turbines need to: (a) have steam > 125C in their inputs, (b) be < 100C (need to be cooled!), (c) need to drain water from their output. The water you generally cycle back in. It comes out at 95c, so can be used to cool the turbine down from 100C (where it stops working), but with a cold block setup, it's generally pretty trivial to run a small loop from the block itself and actively cool them.  So the turbine takes in the hot steam (>125C), and returns an equal amount of water at 95C, effectively taking the difference in heat and outputting that energy as electricity. However, due to the pisswater, the chamber is full of polluted oxygen, and there's no point pumping it out yet. My plan is to boil it to steam & dirt, then either let it condense again (stupid volcano is dormant!) or watch the element display and carefully time it to pump out the pOx. When it IS all steam (20kg+ per tile), the pOx will be concentrated in the top left as it is lighter than steam, and the steel pump is there to try and get rid without venting too much steam at the same time (I will lose some tho). Not perfect, but meh. Don't have time/energy to mess about with layers/vacuum. Power If you look at the first image, you can see a couple of smoking bullets on the top right. these are interplanetary launcher thingies, which should land by the weird lightbulb thing on the left, but if power goes down then they land anywhere, and it's out of range of the sweeper, so it gets wasted. So, <300W intermittent power, a 60W bulb that needs >99% uptime, and a 1200W aquatuner that needs to run occasionally (along with a bunch of automation). As long as the overall draw does not exceed the ~200W average of the panel, we can get away with it. Once the steam turbine kicks in, the aquatuner will pretty much power itself. This is because the heat concentration of the supercoolant is so good that it only needs to switch on for one second in every ten to generate enough heat in the steam to recover that energy (and more) during the down time. As long as the concentrated energy does not exceed the heat transfer of the aquatuner (depending on working fluid used) then this basic setup will convert heat->electricity forever, solving both my problems. When its working. But to cover all this we need to understand how ONI electricity works. You have producers and consumers on a circuit, and if the amount of active consumers on the circuit exceeds the wattage, you get overloads. A battery is NOT a consumer, but it will store any excess power and give it out with infinite output wattage (infinite producer), so it cannot cause overloads on it's own. The number of active producers can exceed the wattage, as long as the consumers do not - i.e. power is only 'drawn' when it is used. And finally, and most importantly, a transformer is a isolating one way valve. It acts as a consumer on the incoming port, and a producer on the outgoing (and has a 1kW battery inside). I won't talk about the large transformers as they are only useful in niche situations - they save space essentially, but have 4kW limit which is no use for protecting anything really. If the only producer on your circuit is a transformer output, then it cannot overload a 1kW wire. it might glow orange, and not everything will run at once, but you can for example, hang 3kW of automation off a 1kW wire and transformer without worrying too much. So, the easiest way to do it is subdivide your grids using transformers:  Green = producer grid. You can always use 2 transformers when yo uupgrade to conductive wire for incoming power. It doesn't matter if you accidentally overload the generators, the transformer is the consumer and limits current to 1kW. Orange = battery/storage (and where you add a main generator room in a big base) This small section is usually heavi-watt, but as I only have a 1kW transformer out, 1kW wire is safe for this. Blue = a consumer circuit. Max 1kW can flow, so doesnt matter how many consumers I put on, the 1kW producer limit will keep it overload free. This simple setup will buffer the solar power in the batteries and ensure there is power to keep the lightbulb on at night. And, plenty of excess! Not 1.2kW worth, mind you. At the end of the blue circuit I have a little self-contained higher wattage circuit:  This works because although it has a battery, it has < 2kW of consumers on a 2KW wire. There is only a 1kW producer in the form of the transformer (which will actually only get whatever's left on the line - the bulb and whatnot will be powered first, tho I wouldn't rely on the ordering), but this also effectively isolates the 1kW line from whatever we do down here. Eventually the steam turbine will kick in with 2-300kW of power, which should be enough to keep the aquatuner turning over when it needs to. It shouldn't need much active base cooling once we get to a mushroom-friendly equilibrium, but I am also running any tungsten the volcano produces through the block of stone to extract the heat from that too (and turn it into power!) To get it working (given there are no dupes on this asteroid now), I'm using the pliers mod, but you can do the same by adding extra automation and switches. During the day, I connect up the incoming 1kW wire whenever the main battery bank has >10kW in, and let power flow in. When it gets over 1200W in the battery, the aquatuner will tune 1 packet and stop, and add some heat into the water, and it will chugg a bit like this until it manages to cool all the working fluid to the temp set. I'm up to about 99 degrees atm after a couple of cycles nursemaid-ing the power. As soon as it gets >130C in there, it should start self-sustaining, but it's cold enough as it is (no steam needed yet!):  A few more cycles and the mushroom should start growing (which was the main aim!). 10-20 more cycles, and the volcano should start up, and that should hopefully kick the steam box into gear. OzyMandrill fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 15:28
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OzyMandrill posted:Great information Thank you for this post. I'll play around with this and see what I can do.
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Mar 15, 2022 21:12
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Picked this back up again, quickly rediscovered my least favorite aspect of items getting moved 2 tiles, then dropped, then picked up and taken partway up a ladder and dropping back to the bottom. Anyone know of any functioning mod that stops that? The only one I can find has a bunch of comments that it's just straight deleting things
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Mar 18, 2022 01:04
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If your dupes are picking up and dropping stuff sounds like they're overworked or getting distracted somehow. Also generally a good idea to keep your ladders from getting too long so that when dupes do drop stuff (need to breathe, end of shift, etc.) the items don't fall too far
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Mar 18, 2022 01:23
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I finally got around to playing and wow. The Aquatuner does work. I cooled my entire base down and didn't make a dent in the pool of water the aquatuner was sitting in. Thanks again for the tutorial on how to make it work.
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Mar 18, 2022 03:36
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Yeah one thing the game does actually model pretty well: Water holds a crazy high amount of heat. So water either as a coolant in pipes or heat dump means you can move or store a crazy amount of heat that would cause issues elsewhere.
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Mar 18, 2022 04:26
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Hot water that goes into feeding plants magically disappears without conducting heat, right? Like if my plants are thirsty and I have perfectly insulated water pipes then sending near-boiling water is better if my goal is to overall cool things down Is this also true of dirt and such?
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Mar 18, 2022 04:53
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Speaking of cooling, does ice not really absorb heat effectively? One thing I tried to do to cool/replenish a body of water at one point was collect ice from a cold zone and send it back to a storage container that was located underwater. That didn't really do anything, so ok, sure, container is insulated or whatever. But then if I restrict the container to not allow ice, the ice is just sitting in the water, and it's like 3000kg, but is achingly slow to melt or even warm. Is there a good way to melt ice to get more water? If not, how do you get more once you've used up the couple ponds near the start site? The supercomputer actually eats water instead of using it as coolant, so if I want to complete the research tree I'll eventually need more. (I'm newish and terrible at this game, so if this is an exceedingly dumb question, no you didn't misunderstand, it's really that dumb.)
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Mar 18, 2022 06:16
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Akratic Method posted:Speaking of cooling, does ice not really absorb heat effectively? One thing I tried to do to cool/replenish a body of water at one point was collect ice from a cold zone and send it back to a storage container that was located underwater. That didn't really do anything, so ok, sure, container is insulated or whatever. But then if I restrict the container to not allow ice, the ice is just sitting in the water, and it's like 3000kg, but is achingly slow to melt or even warm. But also I think the quantity of ice is independent of the heat transfer rate. Your 3t of ice is enough to fill 3 full tiles of water when it melts. So it's gonna warm up (in degrees) very slowly compared to if you only had 50kg, but the amount of heat going into it is basically the same. You could potentially exploit this via multiple storage containers with small limits. You can rapidly melt the ice if you build an ice fan, but that requires some labor.
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Mar 18, 2022 06:47
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Akratic Method posted:Speaking of cooling, does ice not really absorb heat effectively? One thing I tried to do to cool/replenish a body of water at one point was collect ice from a cold zone and send it back to a storage container that was located underwater. That didn't really do anything, so ok, sure, container is insulated or whatever. But then if I restrict the container to not allow ice, the ice is just sitting in the water, and it's like 3000kg, but is achingly slow to melt or even warm.
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Mar 18, 2022 06:49
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I used to build tempshift plates out of ice to cool places (they will quickly melt to water), though I can't remember if that keeps the whole mass of the ice intact through the phase change. For a whole water tank's worth of heat it might take a lot of building, though.
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Mar 18, 2022 07:43
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Ice temp shift plates or conveyor rails is good ways to melt ice. Smart storage locker (the ones built by metal) on a metal tile will also conduct more heat. But for you, it's just the mass, it takes a long time to heat up 3 tons of ice. As far as hot water into plants, yes, that works, but the water will be sitting in the hydroponic farming tile and heat up the area. So you will have to cool the area down anyway.
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Mar 18, 2022 10:05
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Dunno-Lars posted:As far as hot water into plants, yes, that works, but the water will be sitting in the hydroponic farming tile and heat up the area. So you will have to cool the area down anyway. Hopefully heat won't be an issue any more!*Hydroponic tiles have a secret 5kg container inside that the pipe fills, and that leaks heat horrifically. I've had sleet wheat farms with 1kg/tile pipes, and just from minor stalls, the buffer will still fill up and possibly freeze if your temps aren't good. Cooling hydroponic tiles is a PITA as well, you have to use gas pipes or temp shift plates on a pipe that runs alongside to pull the heat out, as the temp of the tile itself has a big effect on the plant temperature/stifling. * Accidentally freezing all the water in your base to ice does not count as a 'heat' problem.
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Mar 18, 2022 10:32
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Dezinus posted:I used to build tempshift plates out of ice to cool places (they will quickly melt to water), though I can't remember if that keeps the whole mass of the ice intact through the phase change. For a whole water tank's worth of heat it might take a lot of building, though. The only way to lose mass is by letting so much debris end up in a single tile that it turns into a block; whenever you mine a block half the mass disappears into thin air.
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Mar 18, 2022 13:51
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OzyMandrill posted:Hydroponic tiles have a secret 5kg container inside that the pipe fills, and that leaks heat horrifically. I've had sleet wheat farms with 1kg/tile pipes, and just from minor stalls, the buffer will still fill up and possibly freeze if your temps aren't good. Would this be a good place to try the metered water valve hooked up to a day sensor? Feed juuust enough water for all the plants for a day.
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Mar 19, 2022 07:10
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Xaiter posted:Would this be a good place to try the metered water valve hooked up to a day sensor? Feed juuust enough water for all the plants for a day. You would need some extreme pipe spaghetti, or else the first farm tile in the line will fill up before it lets any more water past it
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Mar 19, 2022 09:07
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Xaiter posted:Would this be a good place to try the metered water valve hooked up to a day sensor? Feed juuust enough water for all the plants for a day. Nope. I tried it, but when they go ripe, or any slight hiccup in temp/delay in feeding will stifle the plant and the water will start backing up into the secret 5kg store. After several cycles being left alone, the tiles will be full anyway, unless you have something like a timer and stall them feed out for however long it takes to drain the storage just in case. Or you just deal with the water temperature before you send it into the farm and keep it simple!
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Mar 19, 2022 10:03
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Dunno-Lars posted:You would need some extreme pipe spaghetti, or else the first farm tile in the line will fill up before it lets any more water past it I was thinking of rate valves attached to one long line. Just one per plant, pulling off the main line in sequence. So if you have 10 plants, you divide 10kg by 10 for 1kg per rate valve, ensuring each plant gets a chance to drink and the whole packet is consumed. If there's overflow for whatever reason (gonna happen probably due to timing issues, at least early on), a liquid bridge can be placed at the end to eat the extra and even route it back into the line before the meterer valve, saving you some pump costs. Also, yeah! Precool your water! Or go insane.  Make a giant vacuum sealed cold box, get it down to -20 C, and force Pips to painstakingly plant +300 wild sleet wheat one by one from top right to bottom left.  On the bright side, no water or temperature issues!
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Mar 19, 2022 11:41
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Alkydere posted:If your dupes are picking up and dropping stuff sounds like they're overworked or getting distracted somehow. Repeated droppings to move something a distance is mostly just an early game annoyance, the longer one is that they'll drop things at break time or just at random sometimes it seems like. And it's usually when moving critters, or very hot/cold things and dropping them in real bad places and break liquid locks occasionally. I haven't seen anything get deleted using the no drop mod, or at least it's working well enough to not create problems.
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Mar 20, 2022 04:33
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