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If I'm blocking instead of bridging, can I use a product like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/simpson-strong-tie-ltb-19-1-2-inch-22-gauge-galvanized-tension-bridging/1001400607 Or do the metal ties only work well for bridging? Subfloor is already down so I can't nail the bridges to the top of the joist.
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Mar 16, 2022 19:32
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How far in advance do you start talking to professionals about an addition to a home? We bought this 2009 built house in 2020 that was well under our budget with plans to put on an addition in 2024. It’s a two story home with finished basement, plan is to expand out the back and we’re undecided about expanding basement with it or just making a crawlspace. Not sure if it’s too early to talk to architects about feasibility and start the planning process.
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Mar 16, 2022 19:57
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Opioid posted:How far in advance do you start talking to professionals about an addition to a home? We bought this 2009 built house in 2020 that was well under our budget with plans to put on an addition in 2024. It’s a two story home with finished basement, plan is to expand out the back and we’re undecided about expanding basement with it or just making a crawlspace.
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Mar 16, 2022 21:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My residential architect friend says it is at least two years between his clients first getting in touch and them moving in. That’s for for new construction which can be faster than renovations depending on the scale of the renovation. If you can afford to pay one now, it’s never too early to talk to an architect if you intend on using one imo. Nothing about a set of drawings expires or anything, and you may get better guidance on how realistic your budget is, and it spreads the cost out a bit so the architects fee isn’t piled on with the rest of the addition. It may be too early to talk to contractors, but the architect will likely have some insight into what that looks like locally. Excellent info, thanks a ton! Will start looking around for one
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Mar 16, 2022 22:12
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So I'm having an issue with water getting into the lower level of my house. The house is on a hill and the slope carries water down there when the rain gets particularly bad, I'm planning to install gutters to help but I'm wondering if there's something I haven't thought of that could help the issue further? Anyone have experience with this kind of thing?
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Mar 17, 2022 00:36
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Opioid posted:How far in advance do you start talking to professionals about an addition to a home? We bought this 2009 built house in 2020 that was well under our budget with plans to put on an addition in 2024. It’s a two story home with finished basement, plan is to expand out the back and we’re undecided about expanding basement with it or just making a crawlspace. It’s not too early. I just did a pretty extensive renovation and the process went: Hire architect, measure and drawings—3 months Bid project out, get estimates—3-4 months Negotiate bids—2 months Demolition and construction—7 months Finish/punch list—2-3 months And this assumes everything goes well between your architect and GC and you don’t have to fire anyone (though we did end up subbing out an entire HVAC replacement ourselves because we didn’t like the GC’s sub).
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Mar 17, 2022 04:54
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Eesh had no idea the build timeline may be that long. We have a 1 year old kid now and are planning on having another kid next summer. Hence the start in summer 2024. We assumed we’re going to have to rent a new house while our reno is going on since the majority of the addition happening from/through the kitchen.
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Mar 17, 2022 05:15
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We moved back in after the 7 months, just had a bunch of little things that needed to be finished. Paint, door hardware, some electrical here and there. It was a substantial remodel of an old house though, so that brought its own delays. Also there was a hurricane in the middle of it which added a month or so. Delays on construction jobs compound. If the carpenter is delayed, then the electrician can’t come when scheduled and then he’s got another job so that’s a couple weeks, and so that pushes back the plumber, etc.
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Mar 17, 2022 05:22
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The new start relay finally arrived and our fridge is now working again.  It was a $60 part and pretty easy to install. I guess the upside to having a dumb lovely old refrigerator is that it's simple to troubleshoot, find parts for (despite it being 20+ years old), and perform DIY repairs.The downside is that it took us a few days to get the good OEM part from Sears (Amazon could have sent us something faster, but we didn't want to risk ending up with a chinesium fire starter disguised as a relay), so we lost all the frozen items we didn't eat right away and a lot of the stuff that we couldn't fit into the mini fridge, but oh well. At least we didn't have to drop $700 on a new fridge. If you have a simple old appliance that breaks, it never hurts to try to diagnose the issue yourself before calling a repair person or kicking it to the curb.
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Mar 17, 2022 06:49
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Opioid posted:Eesh had no idea the build timeline may be that long. We have a 1 year old kid now and are planning on having another kid next summer. Hence the start in summer 2024. We assumed we’re going to have to rent a new house while our reno is going on since the majority of the addition happening from/through the kitchen. I mean personally I wouldn't even set a timeline until you already did the design phases with an architect so you even have a ballpark design and know what's possible. Hell you can squat on that for years in advance.
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Mar 17, 2022 12:10
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TheKingslayer posted:So I'm having an issue with water getting into the lower level of my house. The house is on a hill and the slope carries water down there when the rain gets particularly bad, I'm planning to install gutters to help but I'm wondering if there's something I haven't thought of that could help the issue further? Plenty of people here deal with this kind of thing. But you're going to have to provide a lot more information and probably pictures if you want any real suggestions. It's not clear what the grade looks like from your description. How much water, coming in through where, do you have a sump pit, etc are all important information here.
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Mar 17, 2022 15:27
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Opioid posted:How far in advance do you start talking to professionals about an addition to a home? We bought this 2009 built house in 2020 that was well under our budget with plans to put on an addition in 2024. It’s a two story home with finished basement, plan is to expand out the back and we’re undecided about expanding basement with it or just making a crawlspace. It's variable based on how quickly you make decisions and how busy your designer/builder is, as I'm guessing you've figured out from the answers so far. Our process for an addition would be (numbers are days) under normal conditoins: 0 - first contact 15 - first meeting, sign design contract 45 - design meetings, measure existing spaces 75 - concept design presentation 90 - schematic design presentation 105 - selections, etc. 120 - pricing document signoff 150 - contract presentation 210 - start construction So around seven months between first start and start of work. We have one project where they are moving slowly and we are in year two of design. We had another addition that was sixty days from first contact to start of work, it just lined up well and they made decisions fast. Right now certain components like windows and appliances, if you aren't flexible about selection, are out four to twelve months, so we pre-order a lot of stuff. We have appliances ordered for a job starting in February 2023 that hasn't even hit schematic phase yet. We are also booking new projects in Summer 2023, so 'seven months' for a typical project is just out the window at the moment. Happy to give more feedback on your plans by PM, I am a residential estimator in the Midwest.
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Mar 17, 2022 18:08
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My neighbor gave me a call this morning and told me something rolled off his driveway and broke one of my basement windows. He offered to pay for the repair; I just got off the phone with the window company he called and have a guy coming out for an estimate on Monday. I'm not really sure what to expect with the window repair; it's just a small piece of single plane glass, but the window is old (circa ~1840s as far as I can tell) and in pretty bad shape (the window is really only visible from his driveway, it's now behind the basement staircase inside - out of sight and out of mind). It seems like they should just be able to replace the pane of glass and glazing, but I won't be surprised if the guy tries to upsell an entire new window given the condition. I don't want my neighbor getting ripped off either. I've got a couple cracked window panes upstairs in the same style window, I wouldn't mind getting those fixed too while the guy is here. What's a reasonable cost for that kind of work?
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Mar 18, 2022 16:07
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That whole window desperately needs to be reglazed. The repair is basically remove old pane, scrape out old glazing putty, stick new pane back in (like $4 from a hardware store), maybe stick in some glazing points, put in new glazing putty (also $4). The hard part is chipping out the old glazing putty and not making a mess with the new. Someone (Danhenge?) made a thread in this forum about repairing old windows if you look back a few pages, but I can’t remember if he has gotten to actually reglazing anything. It would take someone who knows what they’re doing an hour, maybe, depending on how accessible it is from the outside. E: If you like your neighbor to me it’s firmly in the realm of ‘hey don’t worry about it poo poo happens’ and repair it yourself.
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Mar 18, 2022 16:25
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If those mullions (the wood lattice that holds the glass panes) are as cheesy and soft as they appear in your photo, then it may be an issue just replacing the broken panes because glazing points are driven into the mullion perimeter to hold it in place. The glazing putty that follows also requires clean, solid wood for proper adhesion. If the glazier assesses and decides replacement glazing won’t hold, then you’ll need a new window. Personally, I’d remove the sash and completely restore it (remove all glass, and, if the mullions hold, scrape the paint, sand, prime, paint, then re-glaze) but I’m an outlier/weirdo who has done this before.
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Mar 18, 2022 16:26
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I went back and checked, all the glazing is crumbling but the wood seems solid - couldn't put a dent in it with my fingernail at least. I'd been meaning to clean up and paint those windows this spring anyway, maybe I'll take a crack at it. I did notice that the bottom sill is rotting away, that's probably the bigger issue.
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Mar 18, 2022 16:44
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Toebone posted:I went back and checked, all the glazing is crumbling but the wood seems solid - couldn't put a dent in it with my fingernail at least. I'd been meaning to clean up and paint those windows this spring anyway, maybe I'll take a crack at it. If the wood's in good shape then it should be a reasonably cheap repair if there's somebody in the area who does reglazing. I'm not a pro, but my best guess is that somebody has attempted to reglaze it in-place at least once, and so some of that is like a second layer of crumbling lovely glazing over an earlier layer. Is that wavy glass? It looks cool. DAP glazing is the most ubiquitous kind of glazing and what you're most likely find at your local big box store. My main man Bob Yapp hates DAP, and suggests everyone use a linseed oil based glazing putty which is basically Sarco brand putty. It's like twice as expensive at best, unfortunately. If you look inside your basement, you could probably figure out how to pop the molding off and pull the window out. All that glazing is so crumbly looking that you could probably just get a straight scraper and it'll come off easily. Old lead paint is going to be your biggest safety concern there. A light spritz of water can help keep the lead dust down any time you're scraping, and if you have a shop vac with a high quality filter and bag it should be OK. If you have a portable clothes steamer you could also try blowing hot steam on it, I know the buy at Craftsman blog likes to do that for his glazing removal because it keeps it moist and softens the glazing with heat. Edit to add: Also, the weather has recently turned here so I'm planning to pick up where I left off last Fall and finish at least one window here in the near future. I'll update my thread when I do. Glazing soon, fingers crossed. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 17:28
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Danhenge posted:If the wood's in good shape then it should be a reasonably cheap repair if there's somebody in the area who does reglazing. I'm not a pro, but my best guess is that somebody has attempted to reglaze it in-place at least once, and so some of that is like a second layer of crumbling lovely glazing over an earlier layer. Is that wavy glass? It looks cool. All the glass in the house is pretty wavy, it was one of the draws when we bought it. A quick search only turned up DAP products for sale around here. Any opinions on putty vs the stuff in a caulk tube? The window is blocked off inside by the basement stairs (they must have been added during a renovation) so I’ll probably leave everything in place and do the repair from the outside. 
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Mar 18, 2022 18:07
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I re-paned and glazed a single window pane on a ~1970s house before after I had to kick in a pane to gain access to my own house because my friend locked the knob lock instead of just he deadbolt. Sourcing the glass and doing a terrible job glazing was about $30 in total and my total hack job held for at least 10 years. So I'd say your low end to fix this is a self job like I did up to maybe $100 for a professional to do it right given the price of labor and home repair professions these days?
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Mar 18, 2022 18:12
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No idea. If it's the same stuff, the tube might easier to use. It's going to be tough to do a good job in-place. Most putties really need a few days of curing to be paint ready. You could try aqua glaze: https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-21016-Glaze-Glazing-Compound/dp/B0019XYIA0 Craftsman blog says you need to be careful to mix it thoroughly but it sets in an hour or two.
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Mar 18, 2022 18:16
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Also if you're anywhere near Baltimore, I happened to be at the taproom nextdoor to this place last night: https://agwglass.com/ It looks like they make wavy glass for people who want to restore the look of old glass. It's got actually "cheap" but less expensive than i might have imagined.
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Mar 18, 2022 18:18
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PainterofCrap posted:If those mullions (the wood lattice that holds the glass panes) are as cheesy and soft as they appear in your photo, then it may be an issue just replacing the broken panes because glazing points are driven into the mullion perimeter to hold it in place. The glazing putty that follows also requires clean, solid wood for proper adhesion. I would tend to agree with this. One thing I will say is that wood windows, particularly old wood windows can stand up to a lot, but you need to maintain them. Painting them is part of that. Honestly, most people should be painting their wood more often. It should never get to peeling. I see this even more with stucco/hardyboard/non-woodsiding because the main surfaces can go without paint far, far longer than the wood. Also, be careful who you call. Lots of window salesmen hide as window repair, and there's nothing they've seen that can be fixed when they can sell you an expensive, ugly modern window.
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Mar 18, 2022 18:58
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Toebone posted:I went back and checked, all the glazing is crumbling but the wood seems solid - couldn't put a dent in it with my fingernail at least. I'd been meaning to clean up and paint those windows this spring anyway, maybe I'll take a crack at it. If it were me I would just replace that one pane myself with the window still in place. Depending on how long that took, then I'd consider doing a more thorough restoration. Seems like a pretty low priority window to sink time and energy into really, other than making it weatherproof again.
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Mar 18, 2022 19:11
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Toebone posted:My neighbor gave me a call this morning and told me something rolled off his driveway and broke one of my basement windows. He offered to pay for the repair; I just got off the phone with the window company he called and have a guy coming out for an estimate on Monday. Probably more involved than you want to get but I almost picked this book up some years ago when I was in a similar situation: https://www.amazon.ca/Window-Sash-B...ps%2C90&sr=8-23 I'd like to learn how to make and repair wooden windows as a hobby one day. Maybe after I win the lottery.
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Mar 18, 2022 19:13
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Incredible Groverhaus energy here lol but for real, I used to repair windows/screens for a while, and did a fair amount of glazing. There's a real zen to it. I prefer the actual glaze, which you work into a soft putty and then a long string that you pack into the angle between the glass and the frame (after having secured the glass with glazing points). After that all you need is a good putty knife and a steady hand and you can make some great angles with the glaze. It was a fun job and it would be a fun thing you might enjoy.
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Mar 18, 2022 20:01
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nm posted:Also, be careful who you call. Lots of window salesmen hide as window repair, and there's nothing they've seen that can be fixed when they can sell you an expensive, ugly modern window. This right here. Old windows are cheap and easy to repair and last forever if you maintain them, a fact that I can't imagine jibes all that well with today's window industry, which is all about selling you expensive, unmaintainable plastic windows that fail within 20 years, at which point they can sell you expensive plastic windows all over again. It's way more lucrative for them to sell you new windows than to repair your existing ones. A major part of what gives these old windows their durability and longevity is that they were made from dense old-growth lumber and therefore are resistant to rot (and fire to an extent) and why the wood can stay good despite exposure and deteriorated paint. Definitely worth taking care of - you can't get that quality wood anymore. Sucks about the placement of those stairs - you're supposed to be able to remove the rails and easily pull out the sashes from inside if you need to clean/work on them and the stairs being in the way makes extracting the sashes way more difficult (hopefully not impossible though).
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Mar 18, 2022 20:59
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Are there any good white spray primers? All the ones I've tried have been horrible. Watery, spatters, bad coverage. Slow drying and drippy. Just awful to work with compared to gray, black, and red primers. I've got kilz and rustoleum painters touch 2x on hand, and I'm pretty sure krylon is the same.
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Mar 19, 2022 02:17
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Queen Victorian posted:This right here. Old windows are cheap and easy to repair and last forever if you maintain them, a fact that I can't imagine jibes all that well with today's window industry, which is all about selling you expensive, unmaintainable plastic windows that fail within 20 years, at which point they can sell you expensive plastic windows all over again. It's way more lucrative for them to sell you new windows than to repair your existing ones. You still find old growth or at least wood with dense grain structure, but it's a crap shoot, you have to inspect boards yourself or get lumber from someone with their own forest to log from and who know what they are doing. My friend who is a woodworker (timberframer) likes to go on rants about modern logging and lumber industry and how really good lumber for woodworking gets ground down to pulpwood because it does not fit into the industralized one size has to fit all requirements of the modern large scale industry. He bought his own piece of land due to this and pays to get windfalls from other peoples lands so he can source his own lumber of better quality. Also these old rear end windows are surprisingly effective if you add storm windows. I've mentioned that before, but it's been normal since the 1800s here to put storm windows on the inside in scandinavian houses, which really makes it into a kind of double pane window. So with that in mind, wooden windows don't have to be energy inefficient single pane affairs but can be environmentally friendly, particularly when you consider that they last so long and can be maintained without energy intensive industry to make them. Studies in Sweden showed they where so efficient that it was not economically defensible to replace with new modern windows, the savings would not pay for the cost of new windows.
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Mar 19, 2022 10:38
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Is there any way to paint white vinyl fencing? My friend inherited rather a lot of it and it's too expensive for her to replace rn
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Mar 19, 2022 16:43
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I have some cracks in my driveway. These should be sealed up, right? Is there a DIY product that will do an acceptable job? If not, what kind of professional should I hire?  I have a stone path. The landscapers re-laid it a couple years ago and filled the cracks with polymer sand. The recent pressure washing blew some of the sand away, and you can see there's some deep crevices. Should I just fill it in with more polymer sand? Normal sand then polymer on top? Do I need to chip out the old stuff or just fill in around it?  
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Mar 19, 2022 17:55
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Sous Videodrome posted:I have some cracks in my driveway. These should be sealed up, right? Is there a DIY product that will do an acceptable job? If not, what kind of professional should I hire? A two part polyurea joint/crack filler would be a good choice. You can find versions that go in a standard caulk gun and the two components mix and catalyze in the dispensing nozzle. Most of them are made to be thin enough that they can flow into the crack and self-level. Adhesives Technology JF311 is one brand I'm familiar with, probably a ton of others out there Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 18:17
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Sous Videodrome posted:I have a stone path. The landscapers re-laid it a couple years ago and filled the cracks with polymer sand. The recent pressure washing blew some of the sand away, and you can see there's some deep crevices. You can probably get some more of the same poly sand and try and patch that up, but you might be better off scraping out a larger amount. Don't forget to try and color match it too. That all said, those gaps are probably too big for poly sand to work effectively. I think most brands recommend 1/8-1/4 inch gap at most.
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Mar 19, 2022 20:31
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I've been watching old Ask This Old House episodes, and this topic came up. Here's how Roger would do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqKgzl57Qtw
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Mar 19, 2022 20:37
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Enos Cabell posted:I've been watching old Ask This Old House episodes, and this topic came up. Here's how Roger would do it: How Roger used to do it  I hope he’s doing OK
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 20:49
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Inner Light posted:How Roger used to do it Me too
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Mar 19, 2022 21:02
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couldcareless posted:You can probably get some more of the same poly sand and try and patch that up, but you might be better off scraping out a larger amount. Don't forget to try and color match it too. Techniseal HP Nextgel which a lot of the landscapers around here use recommends up to 1-inch, intersection spaces up to 2-inches, and 'suitable' for up to 4-inches. But ya, smaller is better.
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Mar 19, 2022 21:15
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On the topic of windows, what is this tacky black stuff between the window and the sash and can I just glaze over it? 
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Mar 20, 2022 02:42
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I'm a little confused about the construction of this window. Is it an old single pane, double hung window or something newer?
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Mar 20, 2022 04:13
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Danhenge posted:I'm a little confused about the construction of this window. Is it an old single pane, double hung window or something newer? I'm not sure how old it is, maybe early 90s? I'm thinking it's not original; the house was built in the 1970s. It's a double pane awning window. The lever hardware says Loewen. Going by the details, I'm guessing this was an owner reno and not installed professionally.
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Mar 20, 2022 06:06
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theflyingexecutive posted:Is there any way to paint white vinyl fencing? My friend inherited rather a lot of it and it's too expensive for her to replace rn Having looked into this because I bought a place with white vinyl fencing, not really. You can supposedly rough the surface enough to get paint to adhere to it but I'm doubtful that it would hold up very long. I've come to accept it. White might not be the color I'd pick, but it's not going to degrade like wood and that poo poo is expensive. Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Mar 20, 2022 |
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Mar 20, 2022 13:38
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