|
IncredibleIgloo posted:That is good to know about the shaking! I just picked up one of those bio-lab agitators and that has been a help with paint mixing although it makes my hand feel weird and sometimes hits an odd resonance frequency that sounds and feels odd. Got a free wall in your hobby area? I got this nail polish rack, mounted it with Command strips. I have a mix of Vallejo, GW, and other paint containers on it, but ig you have just Citadel paints, it looks like it should hold about 90 Citadel pots (I got 15 Citadel pots on one shelf and there's 6 shelves.)
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 16:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 23:43 |
|
|
Cthulu Carl posted:Got a free wall in your hobby area? I got this nail polish rack, mounted it with Command strips. I have a mix of Vallejo, GW, and other paint containers on it, but ig you have just Citadel paints, it looks like it should hold about 90 Citadel pots (I got 15 Citadel pots on one shelf and there's 6 shelves.) I had one of these in my old apartment, it held the entire P3 range (5 years ago) and then some
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 16:43
|
|
|
My painting area has a large window in front for natural light and overlooking a cherry orchard, windows on the right hand side, a hallway on the left hand side, and the back of the room has a closet door and is somewhat far away, so wall mounting to an actual wall is out. I am trying to theorycraft some sort of structure on casters that I can mount the wall-mounted paint holders to, and just wheel it over to the painting area when I paint. I could store it in the closet in the back when not in use. But I will always want/have some paint stuff on the table too.... It gets complicated, as I am sure everyone else also understands. We all probably have more paint than we know what to do with.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
That Etsy paint carousel looks like it takes up a lot more space than that amount of paint should, but I gotta admit it's cool as hell. Cthulu Carl posted:Got a free wall in your hobby area? I got this nail polish rack, mounted it with Command strips. I have a mix of Vallejo, GW, and other paint containers on it, but ig you have just Citadel paints, it looks like it should hold about 90 Citadel pots (I got 15 Citadel pots on one shelf and there's 6 shelves.) Hmmm I have about 125+ paints in dropper bottles and a bunch of Citdal contrast paints. Does one rack hold approx 90 bottles? I might consider grabbing these to wall mount my colors. edit: I have a couple of these Plastic Tiered Organizers and they're great (and inexpensive!) but I've been toying with wall mounting for a while to save desk space - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071NXG35C/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_dl_FGKN8SHMYR9PH4Y3WXNT AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 31, 2022 |
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 17:10
|
|
|
I think I am refining my idea of a mobile wall to hang things on into more of a mobile octagon or hexagon. Kind of like a big lazy susan. Like a thick core on casters that can spin freely. Like a big ol paint dispensing Dalek. The carousel could be where the head goes.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 17:19
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Hmmm I have about 125+ paints in dropper bottles and a bunch of Citdal contrast paints. Does one rack hold approx 90 bottles? I might consider grabbing these to wall mount my colors. Yeah, I don't have anywhere near 90 Citadel pots to confirm, but each row holds 15 Citadel pots with plenty of wiggle room. If you use dropper bottles like Vallejo or Reaper, each row fits about 19-20 bottles.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 17:28
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:I think I am refining my idea of a mobile wall to hang things on into more of a mobile octagon or hexagon. Kind of like a big lazy susan. Like a thick core on casters that can spin freely. Like a big ol paint dispensing Dalek. The carousel could be where the head goes. I got a cheap set of drawers at Ikea with wheels for feet and they're perfect for storing paints, and I place tools and stuff on the top of it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 17:44
|
|
|
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/reaperbones5/bones-6-tales-from-the-green-griffin uuhhh bones 6 is up i guess?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 18:27
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/reaperbones5/bones-6-tales-from-the-green-griffin Those look nice, do they come out pretty well and fun to paint? I don't really need more miniatures, but having a few high quality ones kicking around isn't bad. I feel like I have been burnt slightly by kickstarters promising great miniatures with nice looking CGI renderings that turn out to be not quite so good in person. In particular Shadows of Brimstone and Conan. Unrelated to that, and this is a long shot, but has anyone ever seen any miniatures for Fortnite or Opossums? If I find an STL file of one is there a service I can use to have someone else 3d print it, and if so, what is the recommendation?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 18:57
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:Those look nice, do they come out pretty well and fun to paint? I don't really need more miniatures, but having a few high quality ones kicking around isn't bad. I feel like I have been burnt slightly by kickstarters promising great miniatures with nice looking CGI renderings that turn out to be not quite so good in person. In particular Shadows of Brimstone and Conan. I actually found some by a company called Goon Master Games. Is that one of us goons or just a similar name? https://www.etsy.com/listing/103105...iBoCw2MQAvD_BwE
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 19:09
|
|
|
Actually happy with how the white turned out for this model. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 19:27
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/reaperbones5/bones-6-tales-from-the-green-griffin I'm in I guess? The new black bones material is so nice and the variety of minis you get for a couple of bucks per mini, it's tough to say no, even if I have hundreds sitting unpainted. It's not a pile of shame. It's a pile of opportunity. Yeah, that's it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 20:20
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:Those look nice, do they come out pretty well and fun to paint? I don't really need more miniatures, but having a few high quality ones kicking around isn't bad. I feel like I have been burnt slightly by kickstarters promising great miniatures with nice looking CGI renderings that turn out to be not quite so good in person. In particular Shadows of Brimstone and Conan. They're good. Basically the equilibrium of price and quality and this is a way to get them significantly cheaper but you gotta wait more than a year.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 21:30
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I'm in I guess? I only did the paint sets and a big dragon last time. Probably going to do something similar again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 21:31
|
|
|
Need a little input here. I'm working on this dragonborn knight and making a gem dragonborn: I'm getting stuck on two things: A) What color should I make the claws and horns? I guess I could just go with bone of black. B) The gently caress do I do with this shield. It's pretty much asking for even some basic heraldry, but I got nothing. Though I guess I could use some checkerboard decals I've accumulated from the Ork kits I've bought...
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 21:46
|
|
|
Cat Face Joe posted:I only did the paint sets and a big dragon last time. Probably going to do something similar again. I like reaper paints, but even at bargain prices, I have enough. Honestly, it's the fact they make character models (as in have character, not known characters) that sells me. The miniature from the last set that exemplifies that for me is the mook carrying the 10-foot pole. Magical. 
Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Apr 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2022 23:17
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I'm in I guess?  I've almost started painting minis from the previous bones-kickstarter. Delivery time is bit long though. Two years?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 10:49
|
|
|
Are there any recommendations for painting Twitch channels? It would be nice to put something hobby related on in the background while I'm working.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 14:31
|
|
|
TotalHell posted:Actually happy with how the white turned out for this model. That looks great. I'd be ecstatic with that result.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 15:40
|
|
|
So for my manticore I used army painters army green primer and castellan green along with lead belcher for the tracks and the missile tip. Anyone with some suggestions for other things to add? I am going to try and do the Zendari Dust camo effect. Also any suggestions for a good primer for the Valkyrie (I have Wraithbone…which does bring out details, but kind of stinks at even coverage, Abbadon Block, Army Green (AP), and Ultramarine (AP). Now the windows wind up of course with some light kind of fogging, but it actually looks like it was in a cold environment, so it’s kind of cool, and a lot better then the rest of the cockpit, so it helps cover that up. Also I used the hellstrike missiles for the model, but does anyone have a suggestion for how to attach the rocket pods too? Perhaps using green stuff or just glue it on directly to the model and hope for the best. lol TIA  
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Apr 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 17:25
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:So for my manticore I used army painters army green primer and castellan green along with lead belcher for the tracks and the missile tip. Anyone with some suggestions for other things to add? I am going to try and do the Zendari Dust camo effect. As for primer on the Valkyrie I would stay away from the blue. Army Green might be a good choice if that is going to be the color of most of the panels. Otherwise black would probably work fine. I prime most of my models in grey, but gey, white, and black are all acceptable options and each painter will grow in time to like on over the other for particular applications. I only ever use a specific colored spray if it will match what I want to basecoat the model in. The colored spray I find to be useful for hard to achieve colors as well, such as yellow. As for the Manticore it looks like the Castellan Green has a bit of unevenness to it. You might consider thinning the paint slightly when using it by watering it down just a tad. It might be transparent in some spots or not provide full coverage, but repeated thin coats will give you the nicer smooth finish, which can be important on large flat panel surfaces. It looks like there is a bit of buildup and texture around the tracks. I don't think this will be a problem though because when you are applying weathering, dirt, and mud you can just make those raised areas of paint look like mud or dirt and it won't be a problem. When you finish the primary painting of the Manticore and move onto the weathering phase you can, if you so desire, varnish the model and then experiment with oil based paints and thinner for weather effects, which can be interesting, but sometimes challenging to newer painters. If that sounds kind of like a pain the "Typhus Corrosion" technical paint would be an easy way to add weathering. If it will match your basing scheme the use of stirland battlemire/mud around the tracks in certain areas can help enhance the look of the model. A model with numerous large flat panels like this is also a good model to start with in regards to waterslide transfers. If you have not done those before this would be a great model to start with, because the larger and flatter the area, the easier it is to apply. You definitely don't want to start with small curved areas, like space marine shoulder pads. There are some chemicals sold, called micro set and micro sol, that can help with the application of decals/waterslide transfers. If you are really nervous about the decals, start with the under wing ones on the Valkyrie because no one will ever see those.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 18:14
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:You definitely don't want to start with small curved areas, like space marine shoulder pads. /me suddenly rethinks plan to do very first waterslide on chaos marine shoulder pad later today...
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 18:23
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:/me suddenly rethinks plan to do very first waterslide on chaos marine shoulder pad later today... If you have microsol/microset and the transfer itself is not so large it is manageable. But I would not start with the army champion, just a rank and file guy. Even if the transfer is wide it is not actually all that difficult. The most difficult ones are the large round ones on shoulder pad. You can use a razer or scalpel and make small cuts to allow the transfer to sit more evenly though if you are careful. You should have a billion transfers you will never use, you can practice once or twice on the bottom of a base or spare bit to get the feel for them before commiting to the real thing. Some people are naturals at them, but I tore the first few I tried to apply and it was an exercise in frustration.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 18:55
|
|
|
Lumpy posted:/me suddenly rethinks plan to do very first waterslide on chaos marine shoulder pad later today... Hoo boy is that a learning curve. Even After a full army I feel like I still am praying that they lay flat when I do shoulder decals.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 19:02
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:If you have microsol/microset and the transfer itself is not so large it is manageable. But I would not start with the army champion, just a rank and file guy. Even if the transfer is wide it is not actually all that difficult. The most difficult ones are the large round ones on shoulder pad. You can use a razer or scalpel and make small cuts to allow the transfer to sit more evenly though if you are careful. Yeah, I think the lid of my wet pallet is going to get some decorating. I can start on the flat part, and work my way to the rounded edge / corner!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 21:27
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:As for primer on the Valkyrie I would stay away from the blue. Army Green might be a good choice if that is going to be the color of most of the panels. Otherwise black would probably work fine. I prime most of my models in grey, but gey, white, and black are all acceptable options and each painter will grow in time to like on over the other for particular applications. I only ever use a specific colored spray if it will match what I want to basecoat the model in. The colored spray I find to be useful for hard to achieve colors as well, such as yellow. Thank you very much! Yeah I think I was going a little to hard in the paint with the CG. I still have to finish up some areas that I missed or are still just primer. I had a bunch of times were I was pushing the brush around the model to move paint or use it to put more paint on the brush. Thanks for the typhus suggestion and the mud tip. I picked up the micro set and sol recently and I’m excited to try to do a transfer. I figure considering how much transfer sheets usually cost, I should at least make a good effort to try it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2022 21:38
|
|
|
Starting to try out some speedpaints from the set. This stuff's really interesting. Has a pretty long dry time and would be really interesting for blending. Update after a night of painting: coverage is good, one coat is plenty. Thick which takes some getting used to, and the bottles aren't necessarily color accurate which is kinda awkward w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Apr 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 02:15
|
|
|
I have never done anything more advanced than basecoat and wash and I’d like to improve. What’s the better idea considering my low skill level: wash first and then try to do edge highlights, or drybrush then wash?
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 06:47
|
|
|
here's a crazy idea: no washes
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 06:52
|
|
|
Yeah try giving up washes and doing only layering for your highlights and shadows, or glazes, or wetblending, or even drybrushing only. Lots of options! It really just depends on what aspect of your painting you want to improve.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 07:09
|
|
|
If you have a wet pallete take a blob of one colour and a blob of a highlight colour not too far from it and then work them towards each other to create a gradient. Then use the gradient as your colour picker as you work in a gradual highlight on your models. It's very enjoyable once you get the hang of it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 07:31
|
|
|
All of the above is correct, but if you want a gentler learning curve just start adding highlights after you wash. Base coat, wash, dry brush if applicable, then highlights. Highlighting is the most important next step. Start with simple layers then add edge highlights, then blending, glazes, etc. As you do that and get comfortable, you'll find at some point you want to experiment with adding shadows directly instead of washing. Take it at your own pace to avoid discouragement, is my advice.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 08:37
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Starting to try out some speedpaints from the set. I saw someone primed the caps white and then speed painted them. It was pretty clever.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 13:09
|
|
|
I do that with all my paints. Little drop of colour in the middle of the cap.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 13:35
|
|
|
Painting without washes is fine for practice but uh... washes are really good, even if they just help to guide your site as a partner but showing you where recesses are defined. Really doesn't hurt to use one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 14:49
|
|
|
I don't feel like you need to stop using washes to grow, but maybe just try something new to widen your knowledge base. Try prime then drybrush the whole model, and try stippling with the drybrush then come back in and paint specific with a regular brush and do highlights. I find this works fine with some low quality models just fine. You don't have to be super accurate, it doesn't take a lot of time, and it still looks good, and you'll feel better from having tackled some grey
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 15:41
|
|
|
Honestly the only technique that I'd say is actually genuinely *hard* to get decent at is wet blending - there's all sorts of stuff that sounds tricky, like glazing and stippling and oil filters, etc., but is actually pretty forgiving and doesn't take long to get the hang of (especially if you are patient enough to work them up gradually). If you look at the way traditional painters practice, you'll usually see a kind of constant combination of honing something they're already good at + pushing into something way outside of their comfort zone, so don't feel like you have to wait to try out a technique if it's something you want to replicate or experiment with.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 15:55
|
|
|
I didn't say "stop using washes entirely" I mean that if you want to try something in order to get better at highlighting, don't use washes and instead put paint exactly where you want. Try doing highlights and shading manually to figure out how stuff should be colored based on the shape, position, material, and importance of the object. Once you've tried this out a few times you can then go back to a more speedy, efficient method of base wash highlight. However now you'll know to put the wash in specific places instead of covering the whole model in it. I like using contrast paints as washes for speed on some stuff. On my orks I did meticulous layering on the skin and shirts, but everything else was a contrast wash over a specific base color, such as for the leather bits on the weapons 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 16:00
|
|
|
There is still a bit of a mindset in some mini painting circles that using washes and drybrushing is somehow "cheating" and that your minis aren't properly painted unless you've spent countless hours on a single figure layering on highlights and doing blends, etc. It's even starting to crop up in regards to people using Contrast paints or the newer Speedpaints. To which I say: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 16:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 23:43 |
|
|
The greatest change I made in getting away from the box/ Citadel App suggested method was adding a re-base coat after washing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2022 16:40
|
|
