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PBCrunch posted:
Big 
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Mar 9, 2022 18:30
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| # ? May 23, 2024 06:29 |
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FWIW, I love my in-laws. My late FIL was an electrical engineer/hippy, and my step-MIL is a retired professional clown/former IBM-er turned hippy. They were/are interesting people. My non-step-MIL I didn't really care for, and neither did my wife, so, yeah.
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Mar 10, 2022 21:22
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Wow your FIL is definitely chaotic good, not chaotic neutral as I initially assumed
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Mar 11, 2022 09:07
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Huh, so it was the change from the 60 to the 80 that Toyota moved the crossmember and mount to the transfer case then! Although with how much the HF2A transfer weighs, I’m not surprised that it’s part of the supported member- would easily be 50kg without the driveshafts on it and hanging that off the back of an alloy casting just floating is probably a recipe for longevity problems
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Mar 11, 2022 23:00
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The regular split case is almost 50kg so it’s not that different. Speaking of the transfer case, I’ve started tearing it down - by the book and with everything labeled. Here’s a quick glance inside:  Upper left gear is the input - that’s getting replaced. The new one takes the space of the input and spacer. Upper right is the PTO gear - I don’t have a PTO so that gear has never been used for anything. Lower gear, it’s all one big gear, is the idler. Left is high, right is low. Note the wear on the low range - it turns all the time since it’s all one gear. That sure seems like a lot of wear at first glance, guess it’s good I’m replacing it, too. In fact, the only thing inside the case in this picture that is being reused is the PTO gear. Someone has been into this case before; Toyota didn’t use blue Locktite. We shall see what horrors may await as I get deeper. I’ve also been trying to get the engine oil pan off for two days - any tips? That thing just IS. NOT. MOVING. I found a forum post that having convicts do 3FE oil pan gaskets might help reduce recidivism! I took the power steering pump apart for a rebuild:  See this thing?  All those tabs come out. They all look identical, and they’re small, so I cleaned them up and set aside. *THEN* I looked at the manual:  5 different sizes, 0.0001” difference (or less) between sizes. gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress.
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Mar 14, 2022 05:54
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I read that as "if your rotor and cam ring are labeled with a '1', the vanes are all 14.994-14.996" for example, not that there are a bunch of different sizes all on the same rotor. What I'm trying to say is that I think they *are* all identical - just different sizes depending on which cam ring and rotor you have.
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Mar 16, 2022 00:07
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Gonna go with Darchangel on that. They're all the same, matched to the rotor and cam. Guessing they either revised it a few times, or you go to the next number when you rebuild the pump (if it's loose). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 16, 2022 |
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Mar 16, 2022 00:11
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That’s my hope. I borrowed a set of calipers from an engineer friend (I need to just buy a set…) so I’ll get to worrying about it again when the paint is dry. I still haven’t gotten the drat oil pan off. Broke the tips off two flathead screwdrivers today trying to pound them into the cork. I’m chipping away at it, literally, a little bit each day until I get pissed off and go work on something else. Thankfully it doesn’t have to be done until just before installing the transmission. I’m working on taking the transfer case apart, BY THE BOOK, and keeping track of/cleaning everything as it comes off. I think I got this cardboard tip from here:  Cracked it open and a bunch more ATF came out. I’m not sure that it actually had any gear lube inside, only ATF. That’s not correct and it’s extra annoying because supposedly Land Cruiser-centric shops had been into it a couple times to replace output seals. Note: the real problem is the input seal blew because the tcase vent is plugged. It’s a common failure and a good ‘cruiser shop SHOULD know that. The edges (chips?) on these gear teeth are SHARP.  I’m surprised by that because the thrust clearances were all within spec (book says to measure as you’re disassembling). Transmission output shaft definitely shows where the tcase input gear rides:  I’m using a new input gear with 2x the engagement area, and a new transmission so also a new output shaft, which means this isn’t a problem and hopefully never will be. It’s pretty common to use that fancy input gear with old transmissions to avoid having to replace the shaft; I’m doing it preemptively.
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Mar 16, 2022 07:02
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The burrs on the edges of those gear teeth and the ATF instead of gear lube are not an inspiring combo. It's weird that it has good measured clearances, I agree.
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Mar 16, 2022 16:09
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I mean, I’m not too worried about the gear since I’m replacing it. I spent two hours tonight scrubbing stuff at the parts washer. 300,000 miles of grime is stuck on there good even with warm soaking. I’m *maybe* halfway through the transfer case cleaning but I’m also going to the effort of picking locktite out of bolt threads. Got the transfer case fully off the transmission so maybe tomorrow I can start cleaning all the ATF, shop towels, and kitty litter off my floor. Looking forward to a clear path again. It also looks like the oil pan finally broke free. I noticed it’s shifted over an inch now; to celebrate I refrained from touching it today.
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Mar 17, 2022 05:14
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I have spent most of the last week ‘doing dishes’ at the parts washer. Hours and hours and hours. I finally have everything clean.  I actually bought some polish because I want this to look good. I plan to show freaking everybody. Assuming everything works, of course. I’ve always got the specter of doubt looming over my head. I know people do this, so I should be able to, right? Then I look at what I have to do and start freaking out about how bad I’m going to screw this up. Take this gear, for example:  I need to make it fit. I have to clearance the case with a dremel and burr to make room. Very carefully, though, because I can’t afford to punch through the case or any shifter passages. I also need to get the oil pan back on.  First, though, I need to finish cleaning the block surface and remove the rear main bearing cap to do the main seal. That scares the poo poo out of me. But I do plug along and the successes are coming, one by one. Here is the power steering pump, which I am pretty proud of:  That’s assuming it works, of course. I have no way of knowing until all of these individually frightening projects are assembled into one big terrifying project. The other day a friend sent me a couple pictures from when we went camping circa 2002:  That’s my motivation. To do that again.
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Mar 26, 2022 08:07
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Rate my first weld: I’m pretty happy with it given that it was sheetmetal. I got a lot better on the later ones but didn’t take a lot of pictures. I am realizing I need to get a bunch of welding-capable clamps/vise grips. I also got the transfer case shifter shortened:  The part on the right was shortened 6” - in other words, everything after the bend but before the threads. I’m actually really happy with how those welds turned out; I ground them back down a bit and there doesn’t seem to be any voids. So that’s one welding step forward, hooray! Now two steps back:  I paid State Automotive in Salt Lake City over $700 for exhaust work after having them do the pre-purchase inspection. They also did a bunch of the work on this thing for the two previous owners. I have nothing good to say about their work and I’m done tip-toeing around that fact.
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Mar 27, 2022 04:59
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I'd be pretty pissed if I paid 700 dollars for a Bluetooth exhaust system too.
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Mar 27, 2022 06:40
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kastein posted:I'd be pretty pissed if I paid 700 dollars for a Bluetooth exhaust system too. Cannot find device: not paired
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Mar 27, 2022 13:18
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I need a win, so I decided that today would be the day I do the transfer case. I spent hours late last night watching videos of other people doing it to make sure I have the process down (plus I sort of did one before when I parted out that FJ60) so I was reasonably confident I could do it all today. Oh, how naïve I was. I was about to start putting the front half together when I remembered that I still need to deal with the transfer case breather:  That thing isn’t removable/replaceable. It’s a spring loaded valve pressed into the casting and generally accepted to be the biggest cause of transfer case failures because eventually it stops working, or needs to flow the other way, or whatever other issue, and the seal between the tcase and transmission is the next point of failure. With a manual transmission it will pump the tcase gear lube into the transmission and starve the bearings. With an automatic, being pressurized, the transmission pumps ATF into the tcase until it escapes via another seal - in my case I have receipts for multiple rear output seal replacements. To stop this from happening again we need to replace that breather with a vent hose. Getting it out is a bitch. First I tried a bearing race puller:  No dice. It turns out the breather is aluminum (which makes sense, being pressed into an aluminum transfer case) and the breather would just deform enough for the puller to come free. I eventually started drilling and tapping for successively larger bolts, which each in turn kept stripping, until voila!  Of course the hole size didn’t match what the internet said so I had to make a late-Sunday run to get a bigger street elbow and borrow a 1/4 NPT tap. Home Despot didn’t have the elbow, but did have a bushing, so this is what I came up with:  I’m going to double check tomorrow that nobody has a 1/4” street elbow, but otherwise this should work and solve the problem forever. I have 10 feet of 1/4” fuel hose and a cheap lawn equipment fuel filter to mount up high as an inlet. Supposedly this will prevent the vent problem from happening again. After that I finally got started on what I wanted to be doing in the AM:  That’s what an organized work space looks like these days. I cannot wait to get all this out and properly reorganize my shop. Anyways, I have a few miscellaneous sub assemblies put together and the front output bearing in place. Of course, I installed the front output seal before I realized the oil slinger wasn’t there - Toyota wrote my copy of the manual before they started including that part. Thankfully I got the seal back out without damage and the slinger is in place. Tomorrow is a holiday (Seward’s Day) so I plan to wake up bright and early to get coffee, a welding tank, and start working on this thing again. I need to get that gear clearance figured out before I lose my nerve.
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Mar 28, 2022 05:55
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Advent Horizon posted:I paid State Automotive in Salt Lake City over $700 for exhaust work after having them do the pre-purchase inspection. They also did a bunch of the work on this thing for the two previous owners. I have nothing good to say about their work and I’m done tip-toeing around that fact. Yeah let's go ahead and talk about this. I have posted about them in my thread so I went through my history and found some specific notes all starting with my LX 470 ownership. My first one I wanted to get the timing belt/water pump replaced immediately following the purchase. I bought the Aisin kit myself. When I had called before buying the truck it was expected to be around $700. I ordered the kit and waited for delivery. Once it arrived I called State to arrange a schedule for the car to get the service done. Then they got all vague on how much it would cost "Probably like $800ish". I was confused because the price had gone up from the week or so before, and they also couldn't give the exact number on what it would cost for a job I assume they have done hundreds of times over. I booked the Lexus dealership that got it done in two business days and for $650 out the door. No big deal. Rates are rates. When I put on my tires I did send the car to them for an alignment. I wasn't sure it needed it but I would rather not have expensive tires get thrashed and it was a good baseline. It seemed fine when it came back. but one would think while doing an alignment they would have noticed the sway bar link that had crumbled back to mother earth and was connected via bluetooth: relevant posting I got a little suspicious but...no harm done (apparently) Grey lexus gets crashed. Gets replaced with new Lexus. New control arms go on as the originals had torn ball joint boots and I take it to State for an alignment. I even have it photographed in front of their shop: link to post quote:was very excited because this was the step I was waiting on so I could install by TRD/BFG setup. My boss dropped me off there and had already taken off. As soon as I started driving the car I notice a pretty significant pull to the right. To go straight the steering wheel had to be turned left between 5 and 10 degrees. Narrator: They said they would call me back once the "calibration" on their equipment was done. They never did and as poo poo of a job as they had performed and my two previous encounters I chalked that up as tuition on my University of Life degree. It ultimately led me down a path of installing a lift and having a different place perform the alignment which is still not great but I will hope is remedied. I have updates to post in my thread so I will continue there. TL;DR State Automotive is not worth a rain soaked bag dog of poo for working on your precious Land Cruisers.
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Mar 28, 2022 20:45
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I figured it was a problem for Future Me and emailed the shop as soon as I got back to the office. They called me a couple hours later to tell me that they had this same conversation three times today so it appears their rack is out of calibration. They have made a call for the service to be done and have it recalibrated and should be ready for alignment jobs again this week. I was a bit annoyed as I was called and told they were just finishing it up and the tech would be driving it down the road to make sure things were good. I mean super obvious, not even at freeway speeds could this be felt (hello the steering wheel is pointing the wrong way).
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I don’t know about your fancy IFS systems but for simple steering wheel and toe adjustments you can get brackets to DIY: https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/tools/products/diy-toe-alignment-tool You could do better than the shop and it’s an excuse to get new tools! Speaking of which, I picked up this phallic thing today.  I guess I had better really get into welding because I have a setup that cost almost two grand now. I’m looking for excuses to use it. I started proper assembly of the transfer case today. I didn’t finish, but I’m slowly (ha) accepting that hour long ‘easy DIY’ YouTube videos will take me 8+ hours. Before I started on the transfer case I tore into the transmission. Hello there, 5th gear:  When Toyota added a 5th gear to the H41 &H42 transmissions to create the H55F they basically just added on an extension housing and put the gear there. The castings are all the same, and the transfer case actually holds the extension to the transmission. When Toyota ships a new transmission they put in a single disposable bolt to hold it; it’s considered good practice to remove the housing and replace the forward gasket. Glad I did, it was pretty beat up. Before the front case half gets attached you add in the front output shaft and companion flange. The only problem was, no matter what I did it didn’t seem to be seating properly. This is as far as I could get the new stake nut:  I finally dug up the old one and figured out what happened. Toyota used a short nut with a thick washer, the new Trail Tamer rebuild kit has a nut that needs no washer:  Crisis averted, I hope. Got the front half mounted to the transmission, plus the 2/4 vacuum shifting mechanism:  I’m keeping it vacuum because it’s only for 2/4 shifting and it actually shifts really nice. The last thing I got done tonight is assemble the rear output shaft:  You can see the fancy Special Service Tool I had to rush out and buy at 6pm. The rear output bearing has to be driven almost 6” down the shaft. Now that the output shaft is assembled the next thing to do is grind the case. Finally. I’ll do that tomorrow when I’m fresh.
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Mar 29, 2022 05:22
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Monday night I mentioned to another cruiserhead on Instagram that I was about to grind the case for my new gears. “That grind is the stuff of nightmares.” I’ve been waking up in the middle of the night sweating it. I’ve spend the last three nights hunched over this:  Five hours of grinding, cleaning, assembling, test fitting, disassembling, and repeating. Trying to shave the least amount possible. You can not have enough light when you’re trying to carefully shave a little bit without punching a hole through the casting:  I misunderstood how much I would have to grind back when I ordered the gears; if I had known I would have shipped the case to Valley Hybrids in Stockton and paid the $150 to have them do it with a CNC mill. You have to take off A LOT.  …But I got it done!  Now it’s time to clean the shavings out and put it back together! 
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Apr 1, 2022 04:14
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Lol that last pic. I hope you make out well in the divorce.
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Apr 1, 2022 12:28
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Taking out that much but just enough stock with a Dremel tool looked miserable.
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Apr 1, 2022 15:01
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Yeah when I did the 4.7:1 reduction gears in the transfer of my Hilux I hogged material out with a diamond wheel in a grinder to make them fit. Even then it was rough. And funny- I’ve got a HF2A transfer from a HDJ100 blown apart on my work bench getting bearings and seals before going into my mates truck and man those parts are big, heavy and expensive. With the breathers too- the stock setup on my 100 series is the transfer and gearbox breathers are reed together and run up to the back of the head- might be worth running both of yours together to somewhere in the engine bay for peace of mind
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Apr 2, 2022 14:37
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That's when you pull out the die grinder, not its tiny Dremel cousin
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Apr 2, 2022 14:42
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The problem wasn’t the dremel, it’s that the side of the transfer case gets really thin in a couple places. One good slip up and I would have trashed the whole case half. Notice where I had to grind into the side of a shift rod slot:  Ferremit posted:With the breathers too- the stock setup on my 100 series is the transfer and gearbox breathers are reed together and run up to the back of the head- might be worth running both of yours together to somewhere in the engine bay for peace of mind That’s my plan, though the transmission breathes through the shifter. I’m going to connect the axles and tcase together and use a yard equipment fuel filter as an air filter at the end of the line. I thought about connecting it to the engine air filter but don’t want any hint of vacuum.
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Apr 2, 2022 17:25
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You could connect it to the unfiltered side of your air intake no problem though. That's probably where I'd put it, if that gets enough water in it to be an issue for a breather you are having a very bad day as it is and changing a few fluids is pretty low on the pain in the rear end list.
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Apr 2, 2022 18:02
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Eh, that’s a longer run and more effort to tap the air box than just hanging a ghetto looking filter off the firewall.
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Apr 2, 2022 18:15
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Advent Horizon posted:Eh, that’s a longer run and more effort to tap the air box than just hanging a ghetto looking filter off the firewall. Do the quality of work on the magnitude of the project itself. People gonna see that gnarly half rear end and it'll raise questions of everything they can't see. Underhood loop? fine. throw your 'filter' somewhere not visible. Write what it filters on the side of the can in industrial sharpie. Use a piece of 1/4" nylon airline. Use a heatgun and a piece of tube to radius it against. bend it into a inverted J. Hang that in your engine bay. Excellent work on the case grinding.
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Apr 2, 2022 19:23
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I plan to do something different eventually, I’m not quite sure about what, but for now I just need to get this thing rolling. My soft deadline was the end of March and  Remember how, a week ago, I said I needed a win and was going to do the transfer case that day? It’s now after midnight and I just finished this:  To be fair to my day, I lost 6 hours helping the new owner of that red FJ62 seen earlier in the thread. Rebuilt his starter, tested it, and then installed/uninstalled/reinstalled it three times. It passed every test in the Toyota manual but refused to work on the vehicle. He ended up leaving with the same starter he came this morning; he’s carrying around a chunk of 2x4 to bang on the solenoid when it acts up. No pictures of that whole fiasco and I feel really bad about it. As far as the transfer case, here’s a quick overview of how an offset one works:  Left gear is the input. That turns the idler gear in the middle. The right gears are outputs; the large one is low range and behind it is high range. The idler interfaces with the input and both outputs. To select between low and high range there’s a collar on the output shaft that just goes forward or backward into the appropriate gear. Front output is selected by engaging with the front of that shaft, meaning 2 low abilities are built in to the case design. I also want to call attention to this little box here:  That’s a speedometer calibration box I got from Commercial Speedometer in Sacramento. I used a GPS (my phone) to compare speedometer speed with actual, called them up, told them the vehicle and numbers, and they had it in my mailbox a few days later. I just realized I still need to stake the output flange nuts so I’m going to do that and then get some sleep.
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Apr 3, 2022 09:21
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Yesterday was a cleaning day. First I cleaned off my work table, which included moving the transmission/transfer case combination onto the jack. Thankfully my new transmission jack can go pretty high so it was only a short way to lever it down: It feels totally stable at that height. I’m also really happy with the tilt function of the jack, as it has to be quite a ways over to sit level with the tcase attached:  After that I spent a bunch of time scraping every last bit of the oil pan gasket off the bottom of the engine block. That sucked. It’s been open-air for a couple weeks but was still dripping every few seconds. Today I removed the rear main bearing cap:  Doesn’t look too bad for 304,000 miles. I didn’t gently caress with anything and put it right back after I changed the rear main seal:  After the rear main seal I got Erica’s help and we put the oil pan back on. That is a two person job because it really needs the full strength of one person pressing it against the block to get the super short bolts started - all 22 of them. Once they were started she left to scrub off and I torqued all the bolts to spec. The manual just says “attach the oil pan with 22 bolts and torque to 69 (  ) in-lb”. I started in the middle and worked my way out, then did it again, and again, and again a few more times…Now my arms are tired and the engine looks like this:  I’m pretty sure my biggest oil leak is the side cover but that’s a project for future me.
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Apr 5, 2022 07:17
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Dear Diary, Last night I spent three hours looking for the little baggie of pressure plate bolts. I should do smaller projects so I can keep track of everything. Love myself, -Advent PS, my cheap diesel heater arrived:  I would like to route the exhaust above the step and make it removable right by the edge. I’m also on a time crunch. Would 1” copper pipe be bad for occasional use? I’m not too worried about corrosion because this won’t be used very often and I’ll be looking at it every time while installing the outlet.
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Apr 6, 2022 20:12
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Advent Horizon posted:Dear Diary, Boy, this sounds relatable.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:25
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Should be fine. Depending on exhaust temp you'll want to either pipe solder, hard solder, or braze it. Plan on checking for soot buildup more often than you would on a regular exhaust as the extra thermal conductivity may make it build up worse. Edit: oh the hot air exhaust? It might restrict it more than you want...
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Apr 6, 2022 23:11
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I would think copper tubing would restrict less than the same diameter corrugated. The only thing that seems like it may slow exhaust velocity more would be the 90* elbow. If I could find a thin-wall stainless elbow that would be perfect.
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Apr 6, 2022 23:56
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Today was a good day.  Got the transmission and transfer case installed. I still have a thousand little things to do but they are IN. I was actually waiting on a few things to get that done; all new transfer case sensors from Japan and also for the paint to dry on the shifter linkage I welded up:  In the mean time I spent a LOT of time under there this week installing the clutch, so I made myself at home…  I am definitely a visual learner so figuring out how to put the clutch together without breaking anything took a stupid amount of time. I could definitely do it a whole lot faster in the future. One thing that tripped me up was the throwout bearing:  Notice any differences (aside from color)? Yeah - I was really concerned I had the wrong bearing, and it turns out a lot of clutch kits *do* ship one that isn’t correct. This, however, is just the difference between the OEM Nachi bearing and an aftermarket Koyo. Supposedly it’s fine. To finish up the whole clutch system, though, I need a master cylinder and pedal. I worried for a bit that I wouldn’t be able to get everything lined up properly but that was a completely unfounded fear:  There is NOT a lot of space under the dash to work:  I had to break out a smaller drill to do the uppermost hole, but it went through and test fitting looks good:  I deburred the holes and hit the edge with some zinc paint; next I need to replace the pedal bucket with one that has a mounting stud and pedal tab. That requires taking out an awful lot of the dash, which isn’t too complicated but is tedious.
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Apr 11, 2022 07:31
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I spent all evening tonight under the dash.  In the top center of that picture you can see where a piece of corrugated ducting connects to a solid duct:  Notice there’s a bracket behind it with 3 bolts visible. There’s a bolt behind the duct as well. That duct spans the whole width of the dash and the only ways to access the bolt are by taking EVERYTHING out (it does not bend) or weaving a wrench in from below:  Thats the bottom of the steering column against my arm. I could get one click of the wrench ratchet at a time and no more. Once the bolts are out you can weave the pedal bucket out:  That thing was not meant to be installed with the dash in place. It’s TIGHT. I had to remove the relays out of the electrical panel to squeak it past. There was over an hour just in weaving the pedal buckets out and back in. Let’s compare the two:  I’m sure Toyota saved $0.25 by having two different parts. Installation is reverse of removal.
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Apr 12, 2022 07:21
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I made this plate out of 18 gauge steel to cover the automatic transmission shifter hole and now I feel like I should do something with it. It’s about 5” wide by 7” long, pretty close to the center console & hand brake in the back. The only things I can think of would be a 2-way radio mount or a fire extinguisher mount, but both would look pretty ‘meh’ right there. I could also just put carpet over it and pretend it doesn’t exist, but it’s such a prime spot! I can even get electrical to it really easily via the console wiring or just going through the shifter hole into the tunnel.
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Apr 13, 2022 07:33
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Ejector seat? Oil slick?
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Apr 13, 2022 12:25
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Seems like a good spot for switches if you have a good use for them. Otherwise if you're going for a stockish look it might look tacky.
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Apr 13, 2022 12:51
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sharkytm posted:Ejector seat? Oil slick? I’m going to a lot of effort to prevent an oil slick! One of my remaining tasks is to drill out a plug in the head known for catastrophic oil release and replace it with something threaded. The ejection seat switch has a home right by the steering wheel. Last night I dug through my stash and found a female plug that mates with an unused male under the dash - I’ll be able to add some relays without tapping into any existing wiring.
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Apr 13, 2022 15:47
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All I can think is put a few usb outlets and a cig outlet there for charging stuff in the center console?
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Apr 15, 2022 01:28
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One pedal! Two, two pedals! Three, three pedals! Ah, ah, ah!  Yesterday I installed the pedals and clutch hard line.  The hard line runs behind the brake booster, behind the engine, then down the firewall to the frame rail. That was a puzzle to get woven into place. Today I made a bracket for the driver’s inner fender to attach my dual battery isolator and eventually some relays:  I might as well paint some veins on that loving thing! I had to make it that shape to fit around the other stuff attached or running through the fender; it attaches via three threaded holes that are otherwise unused.
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Apr 15, 2022 05:40
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