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wesleywillis posted:Post pics if you can, but if your caliper sliders are sticky (you lubed the when you were in there right?) then the inboard pad will wear faster than the outboard pad. I did not, I had to bug my gf's brother in law for his tools to save a few bucks (since I tried getting them from my passed grandfather who just happened to not have the tools or they were hidden somewhere in the barn who knows where) and he didn't mention that. Putting the caliper back on didn't fit the new ceramic pads, so we used a C clamp thing and the old brake pad to force the...slider? the circular part on the caliper, more open, and then it slid right on and we tightened the bolts up. We tested the brakes and it was much snappier new brake feels. We weren't getting any sounds from the front brakes to begin with, other than the rear brakes. The rear drums are so rusted that it was hard to get the outer half of the drums off because it was basically deteriorating with every hammer hit, and the rear brake shoes are very worn out, so we just closed it back up and I'll replace them next weekend (the drums are already on order for next thursday, and I have the brake shoes already, thinking I would just have to replace the shoes) They suggested not bothering with replacing the shoes until the drum was replaced. I guess what I can do is get some lubricant when the brake drums come in and take the caliper off then and lube it up. not sure what to get for lube for it atm edit: I can post a pic of the brakepads tomorrow
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Apr 11, 2022 02:57
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You're describing the caliper piston. What you need to make sure moves freely are the two slide pins that mount the pads to the caliper. They should easily slide in and out. Ideally you clean them up and re-lube.
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Apr 11, 2022 11:34
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Brake lubricants are good. Most products by 3m, permatex that say "brake lube" or some such would work.
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Apr 11, 2022 11:38
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opengl128 posted:You're describing the caliper piston. What you need to make sure moves freely are the two slide pins that mount the pads to the caliper. They should easily slide in and out. Ideally you clean them up and re-lube. Cage fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Apr 11, 2022 |
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Apr 11, 2022 13:12
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Vroom is offering me $24k for my subaru outback lol. Anyone have any issues with them? Seems carvana has a wee bit more buzz, but they're only offer me like $22k.
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Apr 11, 2022 14:53
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opengl128 posted:You're describing the caliper piston. What you need to make sure moves freely are the two slide pins that mount the pads to the caliper. They should easily slide in and out. Ideally you clean them up and re-lube. I don't think I touched any pins, it seems like they're under a pin boot? I just unscrewed the "caliper body" off with the two screws then swapped out the pads and put the body back, and screwed the bolts back on as tight as I could by hand
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Apr 11, 2022 15:15
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Cage posted:He no longer has the car (or any car), but my brother was doing his brakes once and found his slide pins were hard to slide in. His solution was to grind em down with some sandpaper or something. You can imagine how much they slid around next time it was due for brakes. He ended up selling the car because of it (and other brake related issues) I use Emory cloth on the pins occasionally if the surface is marred.
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Apr 11, 2022 16:36
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I just usually soak pins and any other metal brackets etc in brake cleaning fluid and wipe them down with rags before reinstalling. Adding appropriate lube where necessary.
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Apr 11, 2022 16:49
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VelociBacon posted:I use Emory cloth on the pins occasionally if the surface is marred. I've done that,, but prefer a wire wheel on a bench grinder if available.
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Apr 11, 2022 17:31
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Head Bee Guy posted:Vroom is offering me $24k for my subaru outback lol. Anyone have any issues with them? Seems carvana has a wee bit more buzz, but they're only offer me like $22k. I was on the buying side, but dear god did I have issues with them, yes. The actual shopping part was fine. They wouldn't accept financing from my wife's credit union, but we were OK with using theirs (via Chase). Delivery went fine, based on reviews we were lucky (although the car arrived several days earlier than they said it would and we were just lucky to be at home when the delivery driver popped by without warning). It then took the company nearly four months to register the loving car, despite calling them over and over. You can't call the registration people, they can call you or you can call a customer support person who opens a new ticket that will be ignored for weeks or months. You can't opt to register the car yourself, you must pay them several hundred, even though you still have to take the car to get smogged if you're in a state that does that, DMV VIN inspection, sign a bunch of poo poo, and send it all to them. Our temporary tags ran out and we called repeatedly, they kept promising to issue new ones but never did. Weeks after we finally got the car registration, they emailed to tell us the temp tags were waiting for us to send proof of insurance, why hadn't we sent that? Which A) they never told us we needed until about the 10th time I called and B) they already had by the time they demanded we send it, nevermind that by then the plates had already arrived and somehow they didn't know, even though their site and their staff claim they'll update you on the DMV status. Checking online, tons of people have had problems with them losing (or never collecting) the title on cars they buy, and then reselling that car anyway, and the new buyer has to somehow find the original owner and ask them to jump through hoops to produce a replacement title on a car they sold months earlier. Some people literally never get titles. There is a law firm in Texas openly advertising for Vroom clients to get in touch with them. The Texas BBB has an F rating for Vroom. They are a loving disaster of a company and I beg you not to do business with them. The two grand won't be worth it.
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Apr 12, 2022 00:25
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I had good luck with driveway.com. Things moved a little slow but they came through in the end, once you get an offer and accept it they will come through but it might take a few weeks.
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Apr 12, 2022 00:36
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wesleywillis posted:Brake lubricants are good. Most products by 3m, permatex that say "brake lube" or some such would work. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ There's so much and it's kind of expensive... https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-2420-Non-Chlorinated-Cleaner/dp/B00JIWXB4I/ And maybe this to clean up any exterior junk?
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Apr 12, 2022 04:27
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I recently bought a old truck from a family member and he put a spray/roll on bed liner that’s turned to poo poo. It’s like a super rough one, feels like sandpaper and will shred any boxes or furniture put into the back. I would like to remove this and either leave it bare or put a new liner on. What’s the best/easiest way to remove this? Some parts I can scrape it off with my finger but it’s gonna require some more effort in other parts.
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Apr 12, 2022 04:58
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GreenBuckanneer posted:https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ That’s the right stuff. You might be able to pick up a smaller tube locally for a little less too. Otherwise, think of it as a purchase that will last you for years to come. I think I’m on year 8 or so with my bottle. The brake cleaner would be smart, and you’ll want to basically just spray everything down before disassembly and after getting the brakes back together.
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Apr 12, 2022 05:06
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Head Bee Guy posted:Vroom is offering me $24k for my subaru outback lol. Anyone have any issues with them? Seems carvana has a wee bit more buzz, but they're only offer me like $22k. Do not go with Vroom do not go with Vroom Sorry but just have to be clear
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Apr 12, 2022 05:16
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FCKGW posted:I recently bought a old truck from a family member and he put a spray/roll on bed liner that’s turned to poo poo. It’s like a super rough one, feels like sandpaper and will shred any boxes or furniture put into the back. it's gonna suck pretty much no matter what, i'd do a lazy job with a hand scraper and throw an old sheet of plywood or carpet down. needle scaler would get after it but might be a little aggressive, wire cups/wheels and incredible patience is also an option
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Apr 12, 2022 05:48
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Comedy option: wire wheel the high points/worst spots, then apply epoxy paint (like garage floor sealer) over the rhino skin bed liner. Epoxy will adhere to just about anything, and will smooth over the worst of it, ignore the low points of the bed You could always cut out the steel truck bed floor and replace it with wood. That's what most flat bed trucks use, seems to work fine
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Apr 12, 2022 05:56
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GreenBuckanneer posted:https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ Either product would be good, but like the other goon said, you can probably get it locally for a bit cheaper. And in smaller sizes. At least for the brake lube. Brake cleaner you should probably get two cans, but maybe thats just me. I like to use a lot of that poo poo.
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Apr 12, 2022 11:38
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FCKGW posted:I recently bought a old truck from a family member and he put a spray/roll on bed liner that’s turned to poo poo. It’s like a super rough one, feels like sandpaper and will shred any boxes or furniture put into the back. Best: (probably remove and) resurface + repaint the bed of the truck. That can be as time-intensive and/or as expensive as you want it to be. Easiest: put something on top of it. Medium: heat gun + chisel/scraper Easy but environmentally bad, unless you get it done by a pro and then it’s still environmentally bad: chemical stripper/auto stripper/aircraft stripper/etc trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Apr 12, 2022 |
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Apr 12, 2022 11:49
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Just find one of those plastic truck bed inserts that I hate. You can usually find them pretty cheap used online or at a junkyard.
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Apr 12, 2022 12:49
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I’m only planning on keeping this truck a couple years. If it’s gonna be that much a pain in the rear end I’ll probably either repaint over it or find a plastic liner. Thanks all.
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Apr 12, 2022 14:16
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Remove any loose bedliner material and spray the bedliner material of your choice over whatever remains.
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Apr 12, 2022 17:20
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Hadlock posted:Comedy option: wire wheel the high points/worst spots, then apply epoxy paint (like garage floor sealer) over the rhino skin bed liner. Epoxy will adhere to just about anything, and will smooth over the worst of it, ignore the low points of the bed This is absolutely what I would do knowing your full situation on time line. I'd spray it but you could probably roll it on. The primer will soften the roughness I think. Then apply the cheapest roll on bedliner to the fresh epoxy maybe.
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Apr 12, 2022 17:25
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Yeah a can of garage floor sealer is like $80 a gallon, you should be able to do like 9 coats of a tiny surface of the inside of a truck bed; roller should be super easy and only take 5-10 min pretty coat; probably do 3 coats a day since it cures, doesn't air dry
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Apr 12, 2022 17:31
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If you can scrape some of it off with your thumbnail it sounds like an excuse to get a pressure washer, see what that does to it. I've never tried it on a truck bed but I have made the shocking discovery that an engine wasn't originally the color of burnt oil and carbon.
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Apr 12, 2022 22:15
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Pressure washing an engine especially on an older car can be a good learning experience!
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Apr 12, 2022 22:28
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wesleywillis posted:Either product would be good, but like the other goon said, you can probably get it locally for a bit cheaper. And in smaller sizes. At least for the brake lube. I'll see if autozone has it for cheaper Just got the two heavy as heck brake drums, so that'll be a fun short project this weekend on learning how these things go in that thing there
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Apr 12, 2022 22:49
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Quick question; I'm going to be using my car for the first time in 5 months where it sat on a driveway in quite cold temperatures. Currently charging the battery, plan on taking it to get an oil+filter change, is there anything else I should do/check after such a long hibernation?
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Apr 12, 2022 23:06
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'll see if autozone has it for cheaper Do one side at a time so you can reference the other regarding springs/clips etc and their orientation.
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Apr 12, 2022 23:30
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Quick question; I'm going to be using my car for the first time in 5 months where it sat on a driveway in quite cold temperatures. Currently charging the battery, plan on taking it to get an oil+filter change, is there anything else I should do/check after such a long hibernation? 5 months is nothing, you'll be fine.
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Apr 12, 2022 23:30
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Quick question; I'm going to be using my car for the first time in 5 months where it sat on a driveway in quite cold temperatures. Currently charging the battery, plan on taking it to get an oil+filter change, is there anything else I should do/check after such a long hibernation? Do a burnout. It will, uh, be good for the tires and even out any flat spots from sitting still for so long. I'm sure of it.
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Apr 12, 2022 23:33
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opengl128 posted:5 months is nothing, you'll be fine. That's what I figured, just the previous longest time I've parked a car outdoors was maybe... 4 weeks? Deteriorata posted:Do a burnout. 
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Apr 13, 2022 00:18
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Quick question; I'm going to be using my car for the first time in 5 months where it sat on a driveway in quite cold temperatures. Currently charging the battery, plan on taking it to get an oil+filter change, is there anything else I should do/check after such a long hibernation? Check your tire pressures though, never a bad idea.
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Apr 13, 2022 00:29
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Taking car (2006 Yaris) to a mechanic, but was looking for advice re: maybe ordering a part preemptively: I am a novice mechanic at best and right now life stuff (and my lack of a good work space) means I just can't deal with the potential hassle of screwing up the brake job it needs, so I'm farming it out to a mechanic. I've ordered replacement pads/shoes already that I'm waiting to come before I take it in. The car came with some creaks in the front end when I bought it about a year and a half ago (just low speed turns or going over speed humps in a car park), hasn't gotten worse, doesn't seem to affect handling, braking, or ride quality noticably, but I now realise how badly the uneven wear is on the passenger side front tyre over the last ~20k kms:  The other three are fine and basically look like the inside of the tread all around. I was thinking it might be worth buying a lower control arm assembly (get both the ball joint and bushing included), but I had it up on the jack stands just now and it didn't seem to have much of any play, even using a broomstick on the ground as a pry bar to check for vertical play. As far as struts, I've tried the bounce test (pushing down hard on the front end) and it seems fine. Any other easy tests I could try to do to diagnose? I don't wanna even mess with getting the wheels off, they seem to have been really monstered on there by the last person and I'm reluctant to break anything (rather let the mechanic do it, and let them sort it out).
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Apr 13, 2022 08:14
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Get an alignment. They'll give you a sheet with the measured values before/after, and you'll be able to tell from that if that one wheel is out of spec enough to have caused the uneven wear.
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Apr 13, 2022 08:20
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Is it better to leave winter tires on too long, or put summer tires on too early? It's the dumb season for weather here, yesterday was 91 this morning it's 33.
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Apr 13, 2022 12:58
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Enos Cabell posted:Is it better to leave winter tires on too long, or put summer tires on too early? It's the dumb season for weather here, yesterday was 91 this morning it's 33. Iowa-ish? We’re done this time for sure. I swear. Third false spring has passed.
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Apr 13, 2022 13:45
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Would you rather be stuck in a snow/ice storm on summer tires or add a little extra wear to your winter tires? We've been caught in a blizzard on summer performance tires, one time was enough to ensure I leave winter tires on a little longer than needed.
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Apr 13, 2022 14:02
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Taking car (2006 Yaris) to a mechanic, but was looking for advice re: maybe ordering a part preemptively: There are some wiggle tests that can help diagnose suspension issues. Hold the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock and if there’s play your tie rods may be worn. Do the same at 12 and 6 and wiggling might mean a ball joint or wheel bearing has worn out. Bounce the front or rear end with the car on the ground. If it bounces back your dampers might be spent. It’s only a start though and a road test and visual inspection are necessary to figure out what’s going on generally. So honestly, I’d just go in. Let a mechanic figure out what’s going on. Then if it makes sense financially, buy the parts and have them installed. Sometimes you forgo their warranty then, so factor that into your decision. Your vehicle is not in great condition right now, so I wouldn’t wait to find out what’s at fault.
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Apr 13, 2022 14:03
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Taking car (2006 Yaris) to a mechanic, but was looking for advice re: maybe ordering a part preemptively:... A broomstick is not nearly strong enough to cut it. It can be very difficult to tell if a ball-joint is bad because find its precise slack point, unloaded, is tricky. The easiest (ha!) way is to get a floor jack under the body and start jacking while somebody else hauls back & forth on the wheel and tire (or gets a pry bar on the ball joint & knuckle & starts levering back & forth) as the car rises gradually. If you're lucky, you'll hit the slack point and, if the ball joint is dry, hear a creak, or if it's really worn, the wheel will start knocking. Keep in mind that the tire will still be in contact with the ground when the slack point is reached. Leperflesh posted:Get an alignment. They'll give you a sheet with the measured values before/after, and you'll be able to tell from that if that one wheel is out of spec enough to have caused the uneven wear. That will also inform you if you have a bad ball-joint. On the other hand: if the creaking is an unlubed/no longer lubed ball joint, you will need to replace the lower control arm (pretty sure they're pressed in on most Toyotas these days) before you get an alignment. You could try asking the alignment shop to check the ball-joints first before they commit. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Apr 13, 2022 |
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Apr 13, 2022 14:04
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