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Cyks posted:Yeah, looks to be correct. There’s a setting to turn the edgerouterx into just a switch but it does not allow you to set vlans on a per port level so it just really depends on what your ultimate design goal is. Google wifi apparently also doesn't support vlan tagging so it might be time to abandon the little shits. I don't get why this super nice and functional mesh network simply can't handle being on a vlan.
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Apr 1, 2022 17:59
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Not sure if this would be a more appropriate question in the Games subforum, but it is network-related so here goes. I'm having endless trouble matchmaking in a particular PS4 game (Aliens Fireteam) and I'm wondering if the problem is at all related to my connection, possibly something in my router that can be altered. Since I got the game months ago, finding people to play with is nigh impossible. I've honestly never fiddled with the PS4 network settings beyond making sure that it's using the hardwired connection and not wireless, is there maybe a port I can dedicate to the device in my home router settings? The other answer is that nobody is even playing this game anymore. 
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Apr 6, 2022 20:44
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Famethrowa posted:Google wifi apparently also doesn't support vlan tagging so it might be time to abandon the little shits. I don't get why this super nice and functional mesh network simply can't handle being on a vlan. You can have the edgerouter acting as the WAN gateway, and have an isolated port that passes traffic between the modem and the google device, without using a VLAN. The google device will just see the edgerouter as the same as the modem, and the actual modem will just see the edgerouter.
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Apr 6, 2022 20:49
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Mister Speaker posted:Not sure if this would be a more appropriate question in the Games subforum, but it is network-related so here goes. I'm having endless trouble matchmaking in a particular PS4 game (Aliens Fireteam) and I'm wondering if the problem is at all related to my connection, possibly something in my router that can be altered. Since I got the game months ago, finding people to play with is nigh impossible. I've honestly never fiddled with the PS4 network settings beyond making sure that it's using the hardwired connection and not wireless, is there maybe a port I can dedicate to the device in my home router settings? What's your network look like? Tell us all the connections between the PS4 and the internet. The most common issue I've seen with game matchmaking issues is double NAT situations. Using 2 routers in the path can cause a lot of the matchmaking network traffic to fail. If your ISP is providing you a modem/router combo (very common these days) and then you have your own router behind that, it's probably the issue. You'll want to look into using bridge mode, DMZ, or some other setting in the ISP equipment to get of the double NAT situation. You can also try bypassing your personal router and connecting directly to the ISP one. If that's not the situation, check and see if there are any necessary firewall ports that need to be opened for your game. There's some other stuff worth looking into, but those are the 2 major ones that come to mind.
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Apr 6, 2022 21:18
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Mister Speaker posted:Not sure if this would be a more appropriate question in the Games subforum, but it is network-related so here goes. I'm having endless trouble matchmaking in a particular PS4 game (Aliens Fireteam) and I'm wondering if the problem is at all related to my connection, possibly something in my router that can be altered. Since I got the game months ago, finding people to play with is nigh impossible. I've honestly never fiddled with the PS4 network settings beyond making sure that it's using the hardwired connection and not wireless, is there maybe a port I can dedicate to the device in my home router settings? If you go to Settings-> Network -> Test Connection that info is helpful, particularly the NAT type. Edit: on the PS4
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Apr 6, 2022 22:16
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skipdogg posted:What's your network look like? Tell us all the connections between the PS4 and the internet. The PS4 is plugged directly into the Hitron CGN3 router from my ISP. Also connected to the router is an ethernet switch for some other devices in my room, and there is another wireless router down the hall that's connected to the ISP router so my roommates can access the internet. If the PS4 bypasses all of these things and goes straight to the ISP router, could this 2 router issue still be the problem? PS4 shows NAT Type 2 in connection status. Thanks both of you for your help 
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Apr 6, 2022 23:01
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Mister Speaker posted:The PS4 is plugged directly into the Hitron CGN3 router from my ISP. Also connected to the router is an ethernet switch for some other devices in my room, and there is another wireless router down the hall that's connected to the ISP router so my roommates can access the internet. If the PS4 bypasses all of these things and goes straight to the ISP router, could this 2 router issue still be the problem? My understanding is NAT type 2 should be enough, and really what you want. Have you tried other games out at all to see if you can do matchmaking?
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Apr 6, 2022 23:13
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Not in a while, lol, but I do remember it being easier to find matches when I was playing Battlefield. It seems that there really is a massive dearth of users for this game. Well thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
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Apr 6, 2022 23:19
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Heyo. Wondering about upgrading to Wifi 6 gear. My three-story multifamily house is currently covered by 3x UAP-AC-HD (one on each floor) and a UAP-Beacon HD (for extending to the back deck). I realize this is perhaps a bit of a mismatch - there are only ever like 20-30 wifi devices max without much for heavy simultaneous use - but it's what was landed on way back when. This is an old ~3300sqft house with plaster/lath walls and ceilings. It's great for sound insulation! But also undoubtedly not as wifi-friendly as drywall. Ethernet is also only run to select (fairly central) rooms on each floor. I also live in a densely-packed city and can see 44 wifi networks right now from where I am sitting and writing this. (This is just from looking in the wifi menu on this MacBook Air.) My internet connection is 3/3 Gbps and I do toss large files around quite often, both on the internet and locally (for context: various segments of the network are 10 Gbps, and one leg is 40 Gbps). This wifi setup has been in place for years; the reliability has been excellent but the speeds are so-so. For example, I am in my bedroom (3rd floor), with the AP in the adjacent room (my office), and on this M1 MBA my 802.11ac TX rate is ~300-400 Mbps with ~250 Mbps actual speeds, on 5 GHz. A doubling of speeds or so would be quite enjoyed and worth some $$$. Thus, I am considering the new Wifi 6 units. I'd prefer to stick with Ubiquiti/Unifi, and I do have 802.3at/bt PoE running to all the relevant ethernet drops. If they had 'em at Micro Center, I'd just buy one and return it if it doesn't improve performance. But as it stands with stock it seems like I'd have to order from Ubiquiti directly. Long-winded post, coming to the questions: - U6-Pro-US or U6-LR-US? The minor price difference is not a factor here. I'll likely start with just the 3rd floor and go from there. - High preference for dropping in replacements to existing "central on each floor" spots, but adding more ethernet lines is a possibility (just much more annoying and less likely to get done soon). - Are these likely to actually improve my real-world performance across 802.11ax (and maybe also 802.11ac?) devices by some significant margin? Thanks! admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Apr 8, 2022 |
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Apr 8, 2022 03:37
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man, Mikrotik are the Asrock Rack of the networking world. Their latest thing is a 24xSFP+ 10GbE switch... with 2xQFP+ 40GbE for uplinks. For under $500.  it is, unfortunately, unsurprisingly, loud as hell. https://www.servethehome.com/mikrotik-crs326-24s2qrm-review-insane-switch/ Really wish they could push the CRS309-1G-8S+IN down a little farther... with the 24x10g+2x40G stuff under $500 it would be nice to see the CRS309-1G-8S+IN under $200 and the 4-port version really should be under $100 at this point. But I guess they're already by far the cheapest on the market (although part of that is because they don't really do base-t) and they can't keep their stuff in stock, so... As insane as that 24-port switch is, a Netgear MS510TXM looks more practical for what I would end up doing with it. But I'm jealous of the idea of 40-gbit uplinks to my fileserver. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Apr 9, 2022 |
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Apr 9, 2022 01:33
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admiraldennis posted:For example, I am in my bedroom (3rd floor), with the AP in the adjacent room (my office), and on this M1 MBA my 802.11ac TX rate is ~300-400 Mbps with ~250 Mbps actual speeds, on 5 GHz. A doubling of speeds or so would be quite enjoyed and worth some $$$. Is that AP set on 40mhz or 80mhz channel width? If your phy rate is that low on 80mhz I’d be shocked if you saw much of an improvement with ax.
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Apr 9, 2022 02:03
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Cyks posted:Is that AP set on 40mhz or 80mhz channel width? If your phy rate is that low on 80mhz I’d be shocked if you saw much of an improvement with ax. Yup, VHT80. FWIW, this positioning (common scenario) was thru the wall but not far from the AP.
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Apr 9, 2022 04:58
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Paul MaudDib posted:man, Mikrotik are the Asrock Rack of the networking world. Their latest thing is a 24xSFP+ 10GbE switch... with 2xQFP+ 40GbE for uplinks. For under $500. that feels like a device that you could hack into being a lot quieter by fabricating a new topcover and making it 2U, mounting some top-down 120mms. (Which would in effect, at that point, make it a 3U device, because you'll need to clear the airspace above it so it can get some air into those fans in the first place, and at that point, it's just huge.) (God, we have got to figure out a better way to move air linearly at 1U.) SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Apr 9, 2022 |
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Apr 9, 2022 07:57
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SwissArmyDruid posted:(God, we have got to figure out a better way to move air linearly at 1U.) So I mean serious question here. You know how a waterblock works. Water sucks to work with but why is there not compressed-chilled-air service where you have some pre-determined service pressure and devices can set their own cooling needs by flow rate and heatsink density, etc, or even modulate it dynamically with a flow regulator/valve? You’d want to keep it all non-condensing obviously but you could keep a heatsink a lot cooler than blower temps, while retaining most of the serviceability of air cooling. Air expansion (flowing out of a compressed reservoir into a lower pressure area) results in chilling to begin with, and you could chill the reservoir below ambient depending on that service spec you set up. Just needs to be something workable for easy handling. And compressed air obviously is easy to direct the flow. I guess that turns your “hot aisle” into a “higher pressure zone” potentially (and to a lesser extent your front aisle will get some bleed out I guess, the machine hall will just be probably a psi or two higher than external ambient) but I think you could keep ambient pressures both within hardware/personnel expectations and safe in the event of excursions. But like, “people who work with air quick disconnects” and “air chuck on a service pipe” and “heatsink in an exchanger fluid” are all pretty solved problems. The general approach of using water to increase heat transfer rate isn’t wrong, but phase change (or fluid expansion) carries significantly more energy than raising the fluid a degree or two. That’s why ice works and whisky rocks don’t. And it’s also way more convenient to work with than a real fluid, you just bleed it out and open it up. It just has to hold enough pressure to direct airflow, doesn’t have to be 1km dive certified, it all bleeds into the machine hall space anyway. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Apr 9, 2022 |
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Apr 9, 2022 08:33
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Ok wondering if I could get some advice. Getting pissed off with my amplifi system that seems to be throttling my gigabit network for some reason. Getting woeful WiFi speeds unless sitting inches from the main router, it drops devices constantly and just generally is lacking in features I'm wanting (advanced security stuff like idp etc etc). My options I've looked at so far: Buying a Dream Machine, I have two unifi AP's so can either uplink them or run some cables Build a PFSense router. Would welcome suggestions as to what would be good for this. Use my Edgerouter X with the unifi APs. Slightly hesitant to do this as edgerouters have been sunsetted by unifi so don't really get updates anymore and the erx struggles with gigabit unless you turn everything else off. Any other suggestions are also welcome.
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Apr 9, 2022 08:38
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They make rack mounted ac units
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Apr 9, 2022 13:54
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I think I need a new cable modem. I have comcast and generally things are fine, but I've been getting drop outs more frequently. Comcast says everything is fine on their end. My cable modem (SB6141 from ages ago) logs show "No ranging response received" among other errors when this happens. If I unplug and replug the cable modem everything comes back fine. It probably only happens 2-3 times a month or less, but it's very annoying. Does this sound like a cable modem problem? If so, what should I replace it with? My current plan is only 100mbit down, but I'd like to get something that will last nearly forever like my 6141 did.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:18
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havelock posted:I think I need a new cable modem. I have comcast and generally things are fine, but I've been getting drop outs more frequently. Comcast says everything is fine on their end. My cable modem (SB6141 from ages ago) logs show "No ranging response received" among other errors when this happens. If I unplug and replug the cable modem everything comes back fine. It probably only happens 2-3 times a month or less, but it's very annoying. Have you logged in to the modem to check the signal stats? It's entirely possible the modem needs to be replaced, but I think I'd want to check the signal before committing to replacing the modem when it might be a line issue.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:46
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Have you logged in to the modem to check the signal stats? It's entirely possible the modem needs to be replaced, but I think I'd want to check the signal before committing to replacing the modem when it might be a line issue. I can get to the signal page but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. When the internet goes down, the signal page seems to still shows a connection, but the log has the errors I indicated.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:18
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havelock posted:I can get to the signal page but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. When the internet goes down, the signal page seems to still shows a connection, but the log has the errors I indicated. Here's a guide to signal levels for that modem: https://arris.secure.force.com/consumers/articles/General_FAQs/SB6141-Cable-Signal-Level My place had coax signal attenuaters in place on the cable that attaches to my modem, which I had to remove to get decent signal (I have no idea what the previous tenant or landlord was doing with some of the poo poo I see in this place). If nothing else seeing what the signal looks like is baseline information even if you replace the modem.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:24
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Here's a guide to signal levels for that modem: Thanks! I have 8 channels and they are all sitting at 8dBmV, which is in what that page says is the acceptable range of -15 to 15. Modulation is QAM256 with SNR of 35dB, which is also ok according to that page. Upstream values are in line too (50 dB, 2.560 Msym/sec). I'll have to try and validate again the next time it goes out, but as it sits right now everything looks fine.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:31
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havelock posted:Thanks! I had an issue recently where signal levels looked just fine when the internet wasn't dropping, but obviously looked terrible when they did drop. Turns out that a signal amp on the pole was overheating periodically and causing signal problems. Issues cleared up once that was replaced. The amp was also taking out some of my local TV stations on my cable TV, which if you don't have you wouldn't notice.
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Apr 11, 2022 21:13
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Dumb question, my modem of, I don't know, 5-10 years old died this morning. Had to run to Target and buy something real quick before work, the cheapest modem/router combo they had is $250. Cursory glance at Best Buy & NewEgg, everything is at least $150+ When the hell did these things get so expensive? Admittedly college was 10+ years ago at this point but I feel like you used to get 'em for $50, $150 was really splurging. Is this just pandemic hell dumbshit or have they been this expensive for a while?
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Apr 12, 2022 22:00
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I had an issue recently where signal levels looked just fine when the internet wasn't dropping, but obviously looked terrible when they did drop. Turns out that a signal amp on the pole was overheating periodically and causing signal problems. Issues cleared up once that was replaced. I had a very similar issue. Ended up using a python script to scrape the signal levels and plot them out to show to the tech, who found a bad amp in the cable plant. Intermittent issues are the worst.
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Apr 12, 2022 22:25
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Sab669 posted:Dumb question, my modem of, I don't know, 5-10 years old died this morning. Had to run to Target and buy something real quick before work, the cheapest modem/router combo they had is $250. Cursory glance at Best Buy & NewEgg, everything is at least $150+ You put zero details in whatsoever, but I would point out that many services don't actually need a modem anymore and you can plug a router directly into your ISP's ONT or whatever the termination box is called.
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Apr 12, 2022 22:37
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LRADIKAL posted:You put zero details in whatsoever, but I would point out that many services don't actually need a modem anymore and you can plug a router directly into your ISP's ONT or whatever the termination box is called. This isn’t necessarily true. Cable companies are going to want you to have a cable modem and AT&T doesn’t let you plug into the ONT anymore on new fiber installs because the modem is also the ONT. I am assuming cable modem since I doubt you can just waltz j to most places and buy a new fiber modem.
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Apr 13, 2022 01:04
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Chances are your 5-10 year old modem wasn’t DOCSIS 3.1. You can still find older ones for $50-$90 on Best Buy. Make it a combo system and I can definitely see it being that expensive in stores normally.
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Apr 13, 2022 01:56
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A few years ago, I had a problem where my modem stopped working, but it wasn't the modem itself that died, it was the crappy AC adapter it came with. Swapped it out with another one with same amps, and it's been working since.
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Apr 13, 2022 02:30
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KKKLIP ART posted:This isn’t necessarily true. Cable companies are going to want you to have a cable modem and AT&T doesn’t let you plug into the ONT anymore on new fiber installs because the modem is also the ONT. I am assuming cable modem since I doubt you can just waltz j to most places and buy a new fiber modem. I didn't say it was necessarily true. My fiber connection does have this luxury.
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Apr 13, 2022 04:24
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Yeah I got my Edgerouter 6P direct connected to the ONT here using MAC auth and it is great.
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Apr 13, 2022 04:30
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Apparently a lot of fiber ISPs here use PPPoE on their connections, which means that plugging your own router into the ONT doesn't work. However, some of them will give you the credentials if you ask so you can configure your router and ditch the ISP provided one.
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Apr 13, 2022 08:31
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The pppoe creds are usually generic and splattered round forums. BT ones are just bt@broadband.com with a password of anything.
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Apr 13, 2022 08:59
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CyberPingu posted:The pppoe creds are usually generic and splattered round forums. Lol for real? What's the point then (genuinely curious)?
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Apr 13, 2022 17:38
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Icept posted:Lol for real? What's the point then (genuinely curious)? PPPoE requires AAA, but implementing and maintaining AAA is a huge amount of work which isn't worth it unless you're gonna charge customers coming and going (ie. both when they use any bandwidth, but also if they exceed quotas). Since that's a good way to become very unpopular as an ISP, most of them have given up unless they have an actual monopoly.
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Apr 13, 2022 18:06
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My ISP (Centurylink Fiber) uses PPPoE with a real username/password for some reason.
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Apr 15, 2022 23:23
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Finally got around to ordering new stuff. Got a UDM pro coming with an access point 6 pro (and a poe injector). Any tips for setup? I'll likely be segregating all my iot/home automation stuff on vlans. Also have a bunch of stuff set for static IPs via mac address. I'm sure that's straight forward, but I've never done vlans before. Is there a good guide somewhere for this specific hardware?
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Apr 16, 2022 20:34
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Residency Evil posted:My ISP (Centurylink Fiber) uses PPPoE with a real username/password for some reason. Same for Centurylink DSL. I have my modem bridged and my ER-X handling PPP. Honestly I thought I'd hate 140/20 bonded DSL a lot more but it's been fine, and it's way cheaper than anything Cox wants to offer me.
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Apr 16, 2022 21:42
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I'm moving into a new home this upcoming week. Right now I'm using the following https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (gen 2, like 7 years old) Is there a baby's first guide to home networking I should follow? I was planning on using my modem but I'm not sure what I should do for router. I want to replace it since it's been giving me problems but not sure which one I should go with.
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Apr 17, 2022 23:27
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The AC1750 was my first router. It does fine but doesn't have stuff like combining the 2.5 and 5 ghz bands into a single SSID or whatever out of the box. It's a good starting point imo, especially if you don't want to spend too much $$$ and you can throw one of the open source firmwares on there if you're feeling froggy. Just poke at stuff and you'll learn as you go. Anyone have suggestions of guerilla networking enclosures? The baby is crawling now and I need this NAS somewhere away from little hands. May as well toss the Pis and other iot stuff into a central location/container. I'd love to move everything to the garage but the logistics of running ethernet to a detached building are significant. Warbird fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Apr 18, 2022 |
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Apr 18, 2022 01:55
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So I got some brainworms last night thinking about how EdgeMAX / EdgeOS is probably going to go EOL at some point and how fun it might be to go back to / build a x86-based pF box after like a decade of using a more embedded thing. I went down the TinyMiniMicro rabbit hole last night but options with multiple NICs are kinda sparse -- the size is right (I have a 1U constraint), power consumption is low (35 W TDP CPUs seem appropriate), plenty of CPU power / RAM... but tough to get something with a 'standard' PCIe slot (like the HP T740) where I can toss in a NIC. Apparently, the Lenovo M90q has a semi-secret PCIe x8 interface inside, and you can get a riser for it... looks like it fits 'any' HHHL PCIe card, so I could put a 2x 10Gb SFP+ NIC in there, potentially -- 1x to my switch at 10 Gb, and then (ideally) a NBase-T adapter SFP to go 2.5 Gb to my modem. But, docs are sparse and I'd have to 3D print / fab a bracket. People do make 1U cases... is there a 'goto' to basically get the guts / SBC of one of those thin clients / a NUC + a PCIe riser + mounting hardware? https://www.servethehome.com/lenovo-thinkcentre-m75q-tiny-gen2-35w-amd-ryzen-5000-powerhouse/ 35 W of Zen 3 cores seems enough to handle anything. Going to resist the urge to virtualize / throw extra poo poo on here. I think you can get mini-ITX boards w/ 1U HSFs, but I feel like that already murders power consumption compared to getting something more laptop intended. A 5600H or 5600G/GE (with the power limit(s) turned down in BIOS) seems like it would fit the bill. Other things I've seen are the HP Elites where you can get one of their proprietary FlexIO cards to add a TB3 port, and then I could run that to an external SFP/SFP+ adapter from QNAP or Sonnet, but that wigs me out a bit / depending on an external cable for my connectivity seems like a failure point. Would rather just use a PCIe AIC and screw it down.
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Apr 19, 2022 17:21
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