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kill me now
Sep 14, 2003

Why's Hank crying?

'CUZ HE JUST GOT DUNKED ON!

Darchangel posted:

Wow, radar detectors are still a thing? That people spend money on?

They are for people who want to not get speeding tickets in areas where the police use radar to enforce speed limits. So yes, people are still buying them.

Waze only does so much.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I just decided to be slow.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

StormDrain posted:

I just decided to be slow.

I decided to drive 30-year-old vehicles that are punishingly loud and harsh when driven at speeds beyond the speed limit.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

StormDrain posted:

I just decided to be slow.

No judge is gonna believe a 13 letter poo poo spreader can do 100mph.

But the judge needs not know what lies below.



PBCrunch posted:

I decided to drive 30-year-old vehicles that are punishingly loud and harsh when driven at speeds beyond the speed limit.

HUH WHAT? SPEAK UP I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE TURBINE AND THE CACOPHONY OF ANGRY HAMMERS

holy poo poo my tinnitus is worse after 2021 lmao.


I don't run a radar detector, I run a chase car in the form of some tesla/luxury barge on lease.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I looked at them recently and it wasn't a deep dive but they kind of seem amazing now. Some were even claiming to watch air radar info to warn of police aircraft. Also I guess they could tie into other radar detectors through your phone and warn you that someone ahead of you just got hit.

I don't do enough highway driving or speeding to dig into it but am curious if any of that actually works.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



First car I’ve ever had tint put on. I have other cars with tinted windows but I bought them that way.



The EP3 is spending the night at the shop and will have tint done tomorrow

Dave Inc.
Nov 26, 2007
Let's have a drink!

honda whisperer posted:

I looked at them recently and it wasn't a deep dive but they kind of seem amazing now. Some were even claiming to watch air radar info to warn of police aircraft. Also I guess they could tie into other radar detectors through your phone and warn you that someone ahead of you just got hit.

I don't do enough highway driving or speeding to dig into it but am curious if any of that actually works.

I have a top end Valentine from 2013 and it still gives plenty of warning...but only sometimes. Radar tech and standard operating procedure has changed.

New ones sound pretty cool.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
had an exhaust leak go from a slight tick to a full-on fut fut fut leak, bad enough that i could smell raw exhaust in the cabin, over the last week or so. i opened it up, and yup thatll do it:



the one on top is the one i just took out today. thing is, i just put these gaskets in like a few weeks ago. the one on the bottom is the one i took out; it was blown at one of the ports on the end (cyl 8)



so, i cut the middle part out of the older gasket, and replaced the center section of the new gasket. the ones on the ends are still from the new one.

it sounds like 99% better; i think the remaining ticking is from the valvetrain.

heres to hoping this one lasts a bit longer than a couple weeks this time, lol

(i think what happened was in the first few heat cycles the bolts loosened up, started to blow out the gasket, and when i went to tighten them up it was already too late and the gasket material was already gone. gonna check the bolts every day for the next couple weeks to try to prevent that from happening again)

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Put the spare on, tired of putting air in my RR tire every day. Funny, I don't remember oiling up my wheel studs...



:sigh: Guess I get to do axle seals. I'll have a shop do that for me, I don't think I want to risk winding up with a howling rear a'la Darchangel.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
you sure that ain' just lube on the stud? (:quagmire:?)
That's not a full float axle.
Look between the dust shield and rotor, look for oil making GBS threads itself out there against the rotor, dust shield, or in that general area.
Your pads will 100% tell you if the axle seal is failing. if its a drum in disc, the shoe definitely will.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Pads look fine, but also look pretty recent (paperwork that came with the car said it got brakes on all 4 wheels just before I bought it). Dust shield is covered in an inch or so of schmoo on the lower half. No clue how the hell it would have wound up on the threads, but they're definitely wet.. and smell like death.

FWIW, the PO did tell me that Midas told him the RR axle seal was starting to leak. But they're also the shop that misdiagnosed a separated tire as a bad intermediate shaft (I have the invoice somewhere,.. "C/S FRONT END FEELS LIKE IT'S FALLING OFF").

I'll probably just pop the fill plug and top it off now and then. It's not making noise, I'd like to keep it that way.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's an 8.8, right?

I'd climb under and look at the backing plate, it should be all kinds of wet if the seal is leaking. Actual bearing/seal swap process is pretty quick, you'll need a slide hammer with an axle bearing attachment and something to drive the new bearing and seal in with. C-clip axle so you have to pull the cover and the diff pin to pull the axle shaft.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


RokBlokz mud flaps are pretty good for the price when they go on sale.

Alternatively, owning a Subaru is like herpes. It infects all other vehicles in the fleet and sure enough, you're putting brightly colored plastic rock guards on your daily, wearing a flat bill hat and slapping vinyl decals all over. Not to mention the method rally wheels.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rI9UZJg1os

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.
The front undertray on my Sonata completely disintegrated so I had to order another one. Why in the hell do they make these things out of felt nowadays? I get it has NVH advantages but when you get a bit of damage the whole thing starts to slowly come apart.

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
:shepicide:



EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

It'll buff right out.

So I finally got the Chrysler reassembled, but I was hearing a little rubbing sound on the test drive. Sounded like brake rub. Popped the rears apart today, captain's side went great. Drinker's side had the bottom slide pin seized. Put the wrench on it and gave it a little wiggle and it snapped right off. Waiting for the parts store to get another bracket in the morning. I'm thinking the car has become cursed.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

IOwnCalculus posted:

It's an 8.8, right?

I'd climb under and look at the backing plate, it should be all kinds of wet if the seal is leaking. Actual bearing/seal swap process is pretty quick, you'll need a slide hammer with an axle bearing attachment and something to drive the new bearing and seal in with. C-clip axle so you have to pull the cover and the diff pin to pull the axle shaft.

Yeah, 8.8. The backing plate isn't wet, but it has a solid inch of grime built up on the bottom half of the backing plate that has me thinking it's a slow leak.

I don't have the room to pull the axle shaft - garage isn't wide enough to even pull a wheel off (I can barely get in/out of the car), and the apartment manglement frowns on car work (they'll tolerate basic stuff after business hours, this is a bit beyond basic). Even with the car out of the garage, I have occupied parking on both sides of me, and a neighbor that files noise complaints on everything directly above my garage (her kitchen window overlooks my driveway). She'd lose her mind if I was using a slide hammer.

For now I'm just gonna keep it topped off. There's a DIY garage w/lifts and tools about 20 minutes away when I finally get time (used to be closer, looks like they moved recently - at least there's a Napa across the street from them now).

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius
Got the new summer wheels and tires on. 18" wheels from an Audi S8, and new Pilot Sport 5 tires. I also changed the pads and the discs, and this thing now _stops_.

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

Almost looks like an RS2

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius

No. 6 posted:

Almost looks like an RS2

I have one of those as well, and it's almost time to bring it out for the summer season!

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

The golden area of Audi. Nice.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Tell me more about the golden area

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Tell me more about the golden area

Everything you need to know:

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

afen posted:

Everything you need to know:


This

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



afen posted:

Everything you need to know:


Just the valve train then?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

dissss posted:

The front undertray on my Sonata completely disintegrated so I had to order another one. Why in the hell do they make these things out of felt nowadays? I get it has NVH advantages but when you get a bit of damage the whole thing starts to slowly come apart.

Jeep was doing this on XJs in the 80s through 01, I'm glad to see Kia finally catching up with superior American undertrays :smuggo:

(I generally rip them off, if they still exist when I buy the Jeep, which is rare)

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Not sure how much difference this will make or if I’ll even notice since I drive the car so seldom, but I put a torque damper on the EP3.




It was a fairly easy install but the pre-existing DC Sports strut tower bar added about ten minutes of fiddling and farting around.

No. 6
Jun 30, 2002

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Just the valve train then?

The valves were gold, and the pistons and crank, pure bronze.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.




Do you even Walbro bro? 255lph Walbro pump fitted to an oem GM EFI sender with AN6 fittings on the feed and return so I can use some AN line and remove the 40 year old hard line which probably would work but was never designed for 60psi of fuel pressure. This will be going on a 88 Blazer EFI saddle tank that will feed a Holley Sniper system on the Vortex 350 that is ready to go in the C10.



Should have time this weekend to pull the current SBC out and start cleaning up ready for the new engine and fuel system.

Also picked up a GPS speedo receiver as the cable is sticky and thus not giving good readings and no clue if the gear in the 700r4 is right.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Put the spare on, tired of putting air in my RR tire every day. Funny, I don't remember oiling up my wheel studs...



:sigh: Guess I get to do axle seals. I'll have a shop do that for me, I don't think I want to risk winding up with a howling rear a'la Darchangel.

You only get that if you futz with the pinion/pinion seal.
I'm still pissed I hosed that up. I'm a dumbass. Don't let me have hammers.

IOwnCalculus posted:

It's an 8.8, right?

I'd climb under and look at the backing plate, it should be all kinds of wet if the seal is leaking. Actual bearing/seal swap process is pretty quick, you'll need a slide hammer with an axle bearing attachment and something to drive the new bearing and seal in with. C-clip axle so you have to pull the cover and the diff pin to pull the axle shaft.

Yeah, what they said. The axle and bearing/seal replacement was easy.

kastein posted:

Jeep was doing this on XJs in the 80s through 01, I'm glad to see Kia finally catching up with superior American undertrays :smuggo:

(I generally rip them off, if they still exist when I buy the Jeep, which is rare)

I was going to say: XJs had undertrays? I've never seen one.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
Why is there a stool on your hood?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Darchangel posted:

You only get that if you futz with the pinion/pinion seal.
I'm still pissed I hosed that up. I'm a dumbass. Don't let me have hammers.

I mean... we've seen that I'm just as capable of loving things up. :v:

I have less than 3 feet of space on each side of the car when in the garage. That's if the sides weren't lined with shelves and RAS (random rear end poo poo) - in reality I can only open the trunk or driver's door in the garage. Even if I park in the driveway, I have cars on either side most of the time, so getting an axle in and out would be.... interesting.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Pulled the ZF6 off the 7.3 to try to figure out why the new South Bend clutch doesn't fully disengage/pilot bushing drags/whatever after everything warms up. Nothing obviously wrong.

South Bend tech wasn't really into me picking his brain about what could have been wrong with their parts and was convinced I destroyed the stupid kevlar pilot bushing on install.

Pilot bushing is fine, spins nice and smooth on input shaft. ​Throwout bearing is fine. Pivot is fine. Pressure plate fingers were nice and even and all in plane, witness marks from throwout bearing contact are even.

Flywheel and pressure plate still look new
at sub 1k miles.

Clutch disk looks fine. Hasn't fully evened out the entire friction surface everywhere but it looks like it's breaking in good, engagement is nice and smooth and no slipping.

Throwout fork does have 200k on it but it's the updated design so nice and flat and no cracking.

I was really hoping to find something obvious. A clapped out ZF6 core is worth like 2k these days, I picked this one up for basically half that and it has a good input shaft and all the synchros work so I'd very much like to make the clutch work and keep it that way.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I have nothing to add but hope you figure it out. Sounds like you've been doing a ton of work on that truck lately. Is the hydraulic (if it is even hydraulic) system good? If there's an inspection window try looking though that while somebody presses the clutch?

My dumb clutch story is that I replaced the flywheel/pp fasteners once and they didn't allow the pressure plate to sit right/flush on the flywheel so it didn't disengage. Did the job about 3 times before figuring that one out.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Input shaft to mainshaft pocket bearing in the transmission dragging maybe? If it didn't do it before, probably not.

Clutch disc not running true perhaps? Like if the splined hole is slightly angled?

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Suburban Dad posted:

I have nothing to add but hope you figure it out. Sounds like you've been doing a ton of work on that truck lately. Is the hydraulic (if it is even hydraulic) system good? If there's an inspection window try looking though that while somebody presses the clutch?


#just7.3things

This would be my next goto. Pull the cover and measure the gap while the clutch is pushed in. rotate the crank, take several measurements. use a sharpie or something to notate where you took a measurement on the pressure plate.
If the slave or the pressure plate isn't actuating far enough, issue is somewhere at the master or its mechanical linkage to your foot.

Did you install the kevlar bushing dry?
Fresh atf in the transmission?
Pedal box all good with decent bushings in the master's pushrod?

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
I just hit back on the wrong tab and deleted my entire thumb typed reply.

Been through three sets of pre bled hydraulics because I wanted to believe that the issue was something easy to replace. First one was just the auto parts store set I bought when I put the ZF6 in. Thought it might be fluid heating up causing issues so I tried the SB unit that has a stainless line and a heat shield. No difference, except the first one they sent me had a hosed up, sticky seal in the master that didn't go away. Second one was fine. Both of their "pre-bled" units had to be bled.

There's no inspection window on a ZF6 that you can actually see anything through, it's just filled by the back of the flywheel. I did try to get an inspection cam into every one of the bellhousing vent holes but I just couldn't get an angle to actually see what was going on.

I called Midwest Transmission to ask about some general ZF6 stuff and see if they had any ideas as far as it being an internal problem and their main tech said he was stumped, but that doesn't mean it's ruled out.

I'd say based off the wear pattern on the clutch disk facing it looks like it's running true.

First fill was cheap Mercon equivalent that got dumped for Synchromesh, no change.

No lube on the end of the input shaft into the kevlar bushing, because that's what SB said to do. Not so sure about that. The thing came out of the flywheel with a couple light taps after less than a thousand miles but I don't see any evidence of it having spun in the flywheel.

Pedal box is good, the 7.3 master mounting is on an aluminum bracket so it's not just flexing the mounts off the firewall. First thing I did in trying to figure this out was to get the $10 heim joint kit and eliminate the plastic bushing connecting the pedal to the master rod to take all the slop out of the pedal assembly.

It's worth noting that along with the disengagement getting worse as temps go up, the pedal feel gets a little stiffer and less smooth. I guess that could be secondary. I pulled the clutch switch off the master rod in the beginning because it was interfering with the heim joint just barely if you mashed the pedal into the rubber stop on the pedal box. SB tech suggested that might be caused by the now missing force usually applied by the safety switch's return spring.

e: I have seen many posts on horrible truck forums of people saying their new SB single disk just dragged until it was broken in and smoothed, but I tend to assume there's probably something else hosed up going on in most of those instances. I thought I was good on break in because the engagement has become nice and smooth but I can still see slight, but consistent low spots at the rivets and on the inside circumference.

Yerok fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Apr 24, 2022

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Oil change on the GK Fit. Would have been five minutes but for the stone shield missing a couple of plastic snaps, so it ended up taking 15.

Even being 1.5” lower than stock, it still had enough clearance to get on my ramps and make the job super fast.

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Outrail posted:

Why is there a stool on your hood?

Do you not understand how stationary flat surfaces in garages work?

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