|
So my dryer was making some noise. So I opened it up![]() Cooool. This one was completely seized, the other front one was slow, and the rear ones were great but had a lot of hair on them (but I had 4 rollers, so why not). IDK how this even worked.
|
![]() |
|
![]()
|
# ? Jun 10, 2024 16:27 |
|
Some blinds on the south side of the house were getting deformed from being in the sun, and stumbled upon something at Menards that looks like it should match with the others in the room, so we don't have to replace anything. Well, when I get the old one down and compare it to the new one, find out why it matched so well. Same brand! Old pair was dated 2014, so probably installed right before we moved in. Didn't have to change the brackets or anything, just pull out the old one and slide in the new one, took all of 5 minutes!
|
![]() |
|
Fishmanpet wake up, it's time for school
|
![]() |
|
Alright, I inherited a 15yo GE gas dryer with my house and it's always been a little cranky. Immediately after moving in a couple months ago, I took it apart to diagnose a slow drying issue, which ended up being a combination of a little lint accumulation in the machine and a lot in the exhaust (also an inexplicable flex tube installation in the drywall ![]() A few weeks ago, it started acting up again and I replaced the solenoids and flame sensor (admittedly with cheapie parts). I swapped a belt right around that time too. The motor is fine afaict but a little loud and grumbly. Not it's back to not drying clothes again. I know it's not an airflow issue (because I took advantage of winter and disconnected the exhaust in anticipation of installing rigid tube and also in procrastination from not wanting to drywall), so it's probably the solenoids or flame sensor again. Is it approaching EOL for its brand and model (GE 2007 dcvh515gf0ww)? I'm not crazy enthused about fixing it for the fourth time in eight months considering I also have to install the new ducting but I also know I can handle it and would get better parts (what's the best appliance parts supplier at the moment?) and I don't want to drop a bill or two if the motor or drum or logic board is about to go anyway, making fixing it too expensive to bother.
|
![]() |
|
This thread is not filling me with confidence in buying my first house ![]()
|
![]() |
|
Pollyanna posted:This thread is not filling me with confidence in buying my first house You’ve apparently not grasped the purpose of this thread.
|
![]() |
|
Pollyanna posted:This thread is not filling me with confidence in buying my first house Why not? My wife & I jumped in in 1992 with about $750 in cash after the move-in dust settled. Day 1: Shower before work. Bathtub fills with black water (because the house was vacant for over 2-years & no one ever drained the water heater) and, mid-shower, the steel tiles start falling off of the shower enclosure walls. Week 2: Went to install a garbage disposal and the entire run of 1.25" galv steel drain line fell down in the basement, about 25' of it. Made a noise. I had no choice but to fix all of this myself, with what little money we had, and the vaguest understanding of what was needed. Obviously, no internet. And look at me now! It's a journey!
|
![]() |
|
Oh I can certainly get repairs and maintenance done, and they’ll happen. I’m just afraid of taking on more than I can handle, or improperly handling what I get, or hiring people to handle it who clearly can’t. Ending up with a leaky roof because of hosed up flashing or a flood because someone drilled through a pipe sounds nightmarish to deal with…and that’s for people who know what they’re doing. God I hope things don’t take too big of a poo poo when I dive in.
|
![]() |
|
The only thing worse than owning a house is not owning a house. The only thing worse than not owning a house is owning a house. Welcome, friend.
|
![]() |
|
Pollyanna posted:Oh I can certainly get repairs and maintenance done, and they’ll happen. I’m just afraid of taking on more than I can handle, or improperly handling what I get, or hiring people to handle it who clearly can’t. Ending up with a leaky roof because of hosed up flashing or a flood because someone drilled through a pipe sounds nightmarish to deal with…and that’s for people who know what they’re doing.
|
![]() |
|
Does anyone know what this is? Bought my house a few months ago and this is mounted to the house, in the walkway next to the gate to the backyard. I'm going to take it off when we paint later this year or next year, but I'd like to know what it is.![]() ![]()
|
![]() |
|
Could be a retractable clothes line, try pulling on it.
|
![]() |
|
CancerCakes posted:Could be a retractable clothes line, try pulling on it. Just took a closer look and nothing retracts from it. Maybe there was an extra piece that came off at some point. Ambulance fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Apr 17, 2022 |
![]() |
|
When I drilled into that radiator line, only two or so cups of water came out, it was fine! After taxes and even utils, we're coming out way ahead of median rent in our area but more importantly never have to worry about a landlord booting us out to make luxury condos or jacking our rent up 20%. If you've made it this far in the thread and aren't too scared off, you're good. Most people only post problems here and not the nice long stretches where you get to just enjoy the creature comforts. If you start to look, just get a good inspector and be prepared to eat that cost if they turn up nasty stuff. Our next door neighbors bought their place two months ahead of us in June and only just moved in in February after their popcorn ceiling removal exposed a rotten structural beam.
|
![]() |
|
Pollyanna posted:Oh I can certainly get repairs and maintenance done, and they’ll happen. I’m just afraid of taking on more than I can handle, or improperly handling what I get, or hiring people to handle it who clearly can’t. Ending up with a leaky roof because of hosed up flashing or a flood because someone drilled through a pipe sounds nightmarish to deal with…and that’s for people who know what they’re doing. It aint easy, but the key difference is agency and responsibility. All of those issues can happen with a landlord, and when they do? You just gotta live with it or deal in an indirect way. It's not up to you. But when you make those mistakes? That's on you. A painful lesson learned is still painful. You can do better next time, but you at least get a next time. And this is just for maintenance and updates. You can re do all the lighting in your house, you can paint the walls, you can even change the way your home is heated. Once you accept that home improvement is a journey of self improvement, the homestead is your oyster. (Except for the limits of money and time. You'll always be able to spend more than you have of both. )
|
![]() |
|
theflyingexecutive posted:Alright, I inherited a 15yo GE gas dryer with my house and it's always been a little cranky. Immediately after moving in a couple months ago, I took it apart to diagnose a slow drying issue, which ended up being a combination of a little lint accumulation in the machine and a lot in the exhaust (also an inexplicable flex tube installation in the drywall I recently had to replace the ice maker in my fridge - I went with a $50 unit from a third party supplier which ended up lasting all of a month... I then had to spend the $150 on the one directly from the manufacturer, which worked perfectly. So I guess what I'm saying is buy your parts direct whenever possible. If the motor's making weird noises though, you may want to think about just replacing it entirely.
|
![]() |
|
Pollyanna posted:... I’m just afraid of ... hiring people to handle it who clearly can’t. Ending up with a leaky roof because of hosed up ... That you're worried about this ahead of time is probably good, hopefully you're more likely to avoid the pitfalls or at least not get blindsided
|
![]() |
|
This might not work for you. I moved to a very small area, and had a great realtor. After we moved in, I got tips from her for electricians, plumbers, a medical practice, and more I misremember. Everybody she recommended was good. It's worth asking your realtor if they have recommendations for construction stuff; they may, because they deal with houses being fixed up for sale all the time.
|
![]() |
|
stealie72 posted:The only thing worse than owning a house is not owning a house. The only thing worse than not owning a house is owning a house.
|
![]() |
|
Finally listened to the recommendations to get hot mud and did so for my latest project to finish painting the garage. Lmao why haven’t I done this years ago, I have a lifetime supply of hole patching for $8.
|
![]() |
|
PainterofCrap posted:Day 1: Shower before work. Bathtub fills with black water (because the house was vacant for over 2-years & no one ever drained the water heater) and, mid-shower, the steel tiles start falling off of the shower enclosure walls. Thank you for your service. ![]()
|
![]() |
|
devicenull posted:I recently had to replace the ice maker in my fridge - I went with a $50 unit from a third party supplier which ended up lasting all of a month... I then had to spend the $150 on the one directly from the manufacturer, which worked perfectly. Yeah that's the move. And the motor isn't making weird noises per se, just older motor noises. I maybe need to lubricate the belt pulleys I guess?
|
![]() |
|
in regards to my tile install (where the tile took four months to arrive), it's been 10 days (recommended minimum cure time before treating) so I'm trying to treat what is most likely efflorescence. The grout is a very dark brown (tec accucolor summer wheat) so from what I read that means any salt will be super noticeable. I mixed half white vinegar half warm water, put some on the grout, waited five minutes, brushed the grout, and then thoroughly washed down everything with cold water. It didn't make any noise like it was reacting, and no salt came out, so we'll see. It might have not been concentrated enough as it was more like 1/3 vinegar.
|
![]() |
|
devmd01 posted:Finally listened to the recommendations to get hot mud and did so for my latest project to finish painting the garage. Lmao why haven’t I done this years ago, I have a lifetime supply of hole patching for $8. The clouds parted and the heavenly choir sang when I first used hot mud. It's so good.
|
![]() |
|
Can you add a tiny bit of water to hot mud vs regular mud. Ever since I learned to add.a bit to regular mud it's been nice.
|
![]() |
|
tater_salad posted:Can you add a tiny bit of water to hot mud vs regular mud. Ever since I learned to add.a bit to regular mud it's been nice. Sure. You can mix it loose. But it is possible to mix it so runny that it goes from too liquid to use directly to setting up, so watch out for that
|
![]() |
|
Getting deeper into the current rabbit hole. Found load bearing roofing material. Was hoping the roofer would be able to work some magic, but he says it's all gotta come off. This is an addition with a balcony over the roof. They built it so the railing is integrated with the walls below and adjacent. Looks slick but totally hosed for basic maintenance. Project scope going up exponentially. Wondering about just patching and kicking the can. Roofer thinks there might not be a leak, it might be another case of moist air causing condensation. There's a clear gap in the sheet rock/vapor barrier right where the damage is. Next step cut open more drywall, see how bad it is in there.
|
![]() |
|
tater_salad posted:Can you add a tiny bit of water to hot mud vs regular mud. Ever since I learned to add.a bit to regular mud it's been nice. Not sure why you'd want to do this with hot mud, but yeah, you can a bit. For light bucket mud adding water (and a bit of dish soap) for a finish coat makes it nice and easy to wet sponge sand. But hot mud doesn't sponge sand well to begin with, so I'm not sure where/what this gets you.
|
![]() |
|
theflyingexecutive posted:Alright, I inherited a 15yo GE gas dryer with my house and it's always been a little cranky. Immediately after moving in a couple months ago, I took it apart to diagnose a slow drying issue, which ended up being a combination of a little lint accumulation in the machine and a lot in the exhaust (also an inexplicable flex tube installation in the drywall Does the exhaust outlet on the outside have a flap that isn’t opening or opening only partly? I had the same symptoms did the same changes, and it turned out to be that. I found that after I replaced the dryer ![]() I’ve used repairclinic.com and applianceparts.com they’ve been fine and the parts have been legit, avoid Amazon. Also, try local parts places, they’re prices didn’t use to be bad by me at least, it’s been a few years since I’ve gone to one though.
|
![]() |
|
MarxCarl posted:Does the exhaust outlet on the outside have a flap that isn’t opening or opening only partly? I had the same symptoms did the same changes, and it turned out to be that. I found that after I replaced the dryer Yeah, that was the first fix, getting the hockey puck of lint out of the external vent flap. It worked ok, then worked great when I disconnected all of the venting entirely, now back to not working at all. I'm gonna gamble on changing out the solenoids and flame sensor again using RC or AP instead of Amazon this go around. I'm not too enthused by changing out the igniter (which I don't think is the problem because I can see the flame at the beginning of the cycle). Thanks!
|
![]() |
|
Ambulance posted:Does anyone know what this is? Bought my house a few months ago and this is mounted to the house, in the walkway next to the gate to the backyard. I'm going to take it off when we paint later this year or next year, but I'd like to know what it is. My first thought would be some sort of storage track system, with all the hooks for things like shovels and rakes removed.
|
![]() |
|
actionjackson posted:in regards to my tile install (where the tile took four months to arrive), it's been 10 days (recommended minimum cure time before treating) so I'm trying to treat what is most likely efflorescence. The grout is a very dark brown (tec accucolor summer wheat) so from what I read that means any salt will be super noticeable. I mixed half white vinegar half warm water, put some on the grout, waited five minutes, brushed the grout, and then thoroughly washed down everything with cold water. It didn't make any noise like it was reacting, and no salt came out, so we'll see. It might have not been concentrated enough as it was more like 1/3 vinegar. Sup dark-grout-efflorescence buddy! IME you should be just a bit more aggressive: 50/50 vinegar/water minimum, and wet-scrub the heck out of it with a toothbrush. Rinse, dry, repeat as needed. And it might come back a couple times before it fully works itself out.
|
![]() |
|
50/50 is just what tec recommend. Just trying to be careful. I'm using a grout brush but I also don't know that it's efflorescence 100% yet It's going to take a day or so to fully dry I think? It looks a lot better now 10 hours later but I don't know if that's just the moisture still present.
|
![]() |
|
Motronic posted:Not sure why you'd want to do this with hot mud, but yeah, you can a bit. just asking questions never used the stuff so not familar with it and how well it lays down etc.
|
![]() |
|
tater_salad posted:just asking questions never used the stuff so not familar with it and how well it lays down etc. Ah, okay. Then yeah, I don't think this would help you at all. It goes down just like premix/bucket mud for the most part if you mix it well and use it before it starts to "kick." If you're doing a large area and aren't accustomed to mudding/are going to leave a lot on because you're new to this hot mud is not the thing to use just because it sands harder. For small spots and/or if you can get it reasonably flat with a knife it's really really great. And stronger than premix, which is why I like it for patching (plus you can do all your coats on the patch very quickly as opposed to waiting overnight for each one).
|
![]() |
|
I'm going to try my hand at hot mud patching tomorrow night! Starting with a basement room that nobody will see so I can hopefully get the experience necessary to not gently caress it up on my ground floor walls. What's the largest size hole/opening that you can use mud in and not have to cut another piece of drywall for? I have a ~1" hole in my bedroom I'm hoping I can just make some thicker mud to patch, but am not sure what the general consensus is.
|
![]() |
|
Johnny Truant posted:What's the largest size hole/opening that you can use mud in and not have to cut another piece of drywall for? I have a ~1" hole in my bedroom I'm hoping I can just make some thicker mud to patch, but am not sure what the general consensus is. That's a bit much. You could likely span it, but you'll end up having to do 4, 5, 6 coats to make up for all the shrinkage. Alternately you could throw fiber tape over it and have a "weak" spot that basically is just skim coat. I'd cut it square/larger and patch it if I was doing that work. Alternately you could pick up one of those quick patches that is like a thin metal plate edged in fiber tape that you just stick on over the hole and then mud over. They come in a bunch of sizes and the smallest one would surely work fine for that hole.
|
![]() |
|
Well the grout looks like it improved so that's nice. I can go ahead and treat the rest of it. Apparently efflorescence can be reduced by using a Schulter ditra membrane. On the other hand latex migration is something where the discoloration would tend to be consistent instead of patchy and is a result of water oversaturation
|
![]() |
|
Motronic posted:Ah, okay. Then yeah, I don't think this would help you at all. My mudding skills are "better than the PO" where everywhere I look it looks like poo poo. I've done some re-tape of places when I've done painting and things to make stuff look acceptable but not amazing, but that's partially due to other PO fuckery. I don't get the same quickness and results that canadian drywall jesus has but I know to use a wide knife, and how to not leave gross ridges everywhere. but I probaly need to apply/sand 2-3 times over a pro, but again also PO fuckery where drywall tape appears to have been a suggestion at joints etc.
|
![]() |
|
![]()
|
# ? Jun 10, 2024 16:27 |
|
Hey, speaking of mud, I've got a couple of holes, maybe 4x4 or 5x5 inches each, in my plaster ceiling. They're both next to light fixtures, where the electricians broke some of the plaster when they were replacing knob & tube wiring. I'd like to fix them as "correctly" as possible, but also there's lovely patch jobs all over the place so if it's not perfect it won't stick out. Ideally I'd like to "replaster" it (the lath is still there) but it looks like to do that properly I need a bunch of specific materials that come in massive bags that are hard to find and I'll never end up using them all up. What are my other options here? Should I get some 3/8 drywall and screw that into my lath, and hot mud over it? Can I use hot mud directly onto the lath (sounds like that would take a number of coats though)? All I can really find searching for stuff like this is doing huge multi-foot spots so I'm not really sure what's best in my small areas. I've also got a few spots of less than a square inch around a 4 gang switch box where it looks like decades ago when it was cut in, more plaster was broken away than can be covered by the switch plate, could I just throw some hot mud in there to fill those in?
|
![]() |