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boneration posted:Is a Saturn a mistake as a first resin printer? I do wanna print stuff like tanks and such to go along with my army of space assholes so I was assuming the smaller printers would be a PITA for that. I've got a Saturn and it's one of the easiest printers out there to use, I'd say. Just do some research on it and watch a few videos before you pull the trigger, to make sure it's right for you, but I'd say you'll be very happy with it. 
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Apr 19, 2022 23:59
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Printing a !Great Unclean one soon, it's all one...very big model. What's a good tip or two for a big statue model like this?
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Apr 20, 2022 06:32
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I may have gotten drunk and put a deposit down on a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K. How badly did I screw up ?
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Apr 20, 2022 06:54
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I feel like anything over 2k is wasted as soon as you apply primer, but I'm also a cheapskate so that's a consideration.
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Apr 20, 2022 07:21
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Printing a !Great Unclean one soon, it's all one...very big model. What's a good tip or two for a big statue model like this?
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Apr 20, 2022 07:43
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moths posted:I feel like anything over 2k is wasted as soon as you apply primer, but I'm also a cheapskate so that's a consideration. Nah, as someone who just upgraded from a 2k printer to a larger format 6k (.5 xy resolution to . 35), the difference is super noticeable. I've been printing 40k custodes and the 6k printer makes a lot of the scrollwork detail on the armor actually stand out so that it doesn't get lost in priming.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:33
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mllaneza posted:I may have gotten drunk and put a deposit down on a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K. How badly did I screw up ? Negative 699.
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Apr 20, 2022 15:03
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mllaneza posted:I may have gotten drunk and put a deposit down on a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K. How badly did I screw up ? Just don't get drunk while handling the resin and you should be fine 
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Apr 20, 2022 16:53
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Ive been wondering the same thing with resin resolution and honestly I feel like a lot of it has to be snake oil. The only time I really see the different at all is on spherical objects, and even then, it's layers lines not pixels. Maybe there's an argument that it helps to dial in especially small support points but I haven't had a high res printer to actually verify this
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Apr 20, 2022 16:58
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Electric Hobo posted:Well, I accidentally mixed quite a bit of Anycubic Craftman's Apricot colored resin into a bottle of their translucent green basic stuff. How is the Craftsman resin? Anycubic has it on super cheap right now so I wanna use it for mass producing terrain.
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Apr 20, 2022 18:08
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MCPeePants posted:How is the Craftsman resin? Anycubic has it on super cheap right now so I wanna use it for mass producing terrain. It might be a little more brittle, but I haven't compared them. I got the apricot color because it shows details clearly, and who doesn't like a pale orange. I'm on a regular Photon Mono, and I've posted a picture of a mini printed with it a while ago.
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Apr 20, 2022 18:59
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Alright I've narrowed down my printer choices to either the Elegoo Saturn + wash & curing machine or the Photon Mono X + wash & cure station for my first printer. Specifically looking at larger models, like some tanks or big nasties, and squads of peeps. Most reviews seem drat even Steven between the 2. Which would people here recommend and why?
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Apr 24, 2022 17:58
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Tiny Chalupa posted:Alright I've narrowed down my printer choices to either the Elegoo Saturn + wash & curing machine or the Photon Mono X + wash & cure station for my first printer. Which one is currently cheaper? These things are functionally identical, they're probably made in the exact same factory.
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Apr 24, 2022 22:22
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Bucnasti posted:Which one is currently cheaper? Really, the only difference is whether you want to slice your files in Chitubox (Elegoo) or Photon Workshop (Anycubic). Unless Lychee has been confirmed to work with both, of course; I usually just use Lychee to do supports and export the supported file as an .stl and then slice it in the native slicer. Bit cumbersome but it's worked well for me thus far.
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Apr 24, 2022 22:29
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Lychee supports them both. Although the Saturn has access to more advanced features like variable layer height, which the anycubic printers lack.
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Apr 24, 2022 23:05
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Chitubox works for anycubic printers. No idea if lychee does, I haven't been back to test it. E: no one is cursed to use photon workshop. From what I've heard elegoo have better customer service/replacement parts. Judging from my mars 2 and my mono X anycubic, elegoo are more budget machines anycubic are more quality. If they were the exact same price I'd probably go anycubic, I prefer their screwed on plate vs elegoo's ball head leveling method. The screwed method I've leveled exactly twice, it just holds forever, the mars 2 I would occasionally smack out of level removing prints or fumbling around the printer. Re the wash and cure: again elegoo are a bit more budget but they give you two separate machines that set up and run concurrently, I think they literally share a power plug even. The anycubic is one machine doing double duty unless you buy two of them (if I was going full 3d printing side business I absolutely would for convenience of not moving stuff around constantly). Eediot Jedi fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Apr 24, 2022 |
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Apr 24, 2022 23:08
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Chitubox sucks poo poo and everyone should definitely just be using lychee
w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Apr 25, 2022 |
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Apr 24, 2022 23:26
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w00tmonger posted:Chitubix sucks poo poo and everyone should definitely just be using lychee
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Apr 24, 2022 23:43
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I'm starting to get discouraged with resin printing. I use Lychee because it has auto supports and all that, and everyone swears by it, but the auto supports are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too thick and dense which means you have to play the game of "do I waste X hours of print time to print this with the amount of supports I wish this print would require, or do I waste X number of hours for something I know will print but will have a stupid amount of supports". Every time I've tried printing with manual supports half the time the model just falls off the supports, so I suppose I'm doing something wrong there but I'm not sure I have the emotional energy to find out. Anyways I haven't printed for a while (because I'm getting too many failures and it's frustrating) and the printer is closed off in a tent. I had some in the vat, and i stirred it up with my gloved fingers (since IDK how the frick to stir anything in the vat without worrying about scratching the FEP) and got the temperature up to 75F or 79F+ in the actual vat, and 85F or so in the ambient temperature inside the tent (proven by two thermostats/thermometers) shook the poo poo out of the resin bottle (anycubic grey resin) and filled it up. This is the print: https://www.baphominiatures.com/paintwidget-1 Loaded up 6 of these on lychee, kept orientation and auto supports, they were thick as hell but I just need the cup, I don't care if it's got pockmarks from the supports. I have a 4k Photon. Looks good, I've used these settings before to get prints, but most of the failures in the past are just from weird shearing issues, so my print speeds are low (see previous posts I guess) and lychee thinks it's going to take 80 hours lol I pop it into my printer and once it starts printing it recalculates at about 2 hours instead. Fine, whatever, that's not bad. I mean, I waited about 5+ hours to start printing while the temperature in the weed tent it's in to climb from 59F to 80F (it's in the basement, but the temperature does not drop quickly or drastically, so it should not be cold as a problem) I pull it out, and surprise surprise, there are failures, but I put it in the wash and cure station and rinse it off in my denatured alcohol. I printed 6 expecting half would fail, and well, half did, but not all in the same spots. In fact, it was so difficult to get off the build plate because it was cured so well I was afraid of breaking it or stabbing my hand. The failures (i've thrown the whole thing away at this point) were not on the base, there were no holes to indicate a problem with the fep, and it only started to fail in random locations, and only in various layer heights of maybe after 200-300 layers, or after 400 layers. I have no idea what would cause that, where whole sections just stopped printing after having printed fine for hundreds of layers. One or two of those sections stuck to the fep at this point, while the rest of the model just continued on. However, that's not the worse part, it's that the entire attempt was effectively cured, as if I had stuck it in the wash and cure. There was no breaking anything off, because it would be hard as a rock in trying to get anything off the model, resulting in wasting 100ml of resin. I'm starting to think at this point it's not me or the settings, but this resin. I'll probably pick up some different company's resin next month, maybe elegoo and siriyara tech, and try some exposure settings and a print or two, but even a single print ends up taking the whole day for me, so a failure ends up being pretty discouraging because it's not just 2 hours of time wasted, but all the other prep work leading up to it and all the clean up process. (10am turn on heater, 12pm start fooling around in lychee coming up with a print, 1215pm go check on printer, if it's not hot enough wait 2-3pm start print 5pm check on print, print has failed) I also hear now that resin can expire?? which maybe that happened, or maybe I just got a bad bottle, or something. anyways, I really wish this was more like an HP or Canon printer, press print, receive bacon, go on with day GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Apr 24, 2022 |
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Apr 24, 2022 23:48
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For the sake of argument, I will honestly say that slicing and only slicing in Chitubox/Photon Workshop is relatively painless, if you're doing pre-supported models or models that you did supports for yourself in another program, like Lychee or Prusa Slicer. It's trying to do supports (and most of the other stuff) in Chitubox or Photon Workshop that's a pain in the rear end. But ultimately, as long as your workflow process gets you the good-looking prints you want, it's all good no matter what software you decide to use.
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Apr 25, 2022 00:00
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It sounds like you need to just start over from scratch and bin that resin. I have had great luck with siraya tech fast navy grey, and the nice thing about siraya is that they have published settings for most printer models. Those will be a great starting point, and then you can use the siraya calibration model to dial it in from there. For support settings i use these and they work great. I usually do a lychee autosupport on low density, then use island detection and manually add more support as needed. It's time consuming but i haven't had a failure yet. I bet if you use autosupport on high youd have a pretty good rate of success, and the nice thing about those support settings is that they should pull off pretty easily without leaving many marks.
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Apr 25, 2022 00:01
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Mikey Purp posted:It sounds like you need to just start over from scratch and bin that resin. I have had great luck with siraya tech fast navy grey, and the nice thing about siraya is that they have published settings for most printer models. Those will be a great starting point, and then you can use the siraya calibration model to dial it in from there. It'll have to wait for next paycheck next month but I'll try that resin, probably only buy 500g instead of 1kg of this crap. The process should then be: 1. load resin profile into lychee 2. compile print w/ exposure test 3. modify settings and GOTO 2 until satisfied 4. print actual model(s) you wanted
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Apr 25, 2022 01:33
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GreenBuckanneer posted:It'll have to wait for next paycheck next month but I'll try that resin, probably only buy 500g instead of 1kg of this crap. The Navy grey is good, but definitely consider fast grey as well. Generic cheap resin from most companies is a pain to work with and switching to one by sirayatech or going to Vulcan will make things massively easier I'll say if your printing miniatures, it's really hard to go wrong with tilting things back 30ish degrees so supports aren't in faces, the. Light supports at low density. This will work for 90% of models, and keep in mind some models can Still be bullshit and warrant manual supports, more supports, etc
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Apr 25, 2022 02:20
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When I swapped away from a lovely cheap from amazon resin (nova3d I think?) my failure rate went from "my god an entirely successful plate!  " to "poo poo that's the first minor failure in like 8 full plates of prints".
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Apr 25, 2022 06:56
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm starting to get discouraged with resin printing. When you hit Autosupport it uses your current support settings and also the support density slider. If you are getting too many thick supports : 1. BEFORE hitting Auto-support, select light (or medium) supports. 2. Check the support density slider. 9/10 times ‘Normal’ is fine -then- hit auto-support. Would people be interested in a video about it?
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Apr 25, 2022 18:28
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Cross-posting from regular printer threadSockser posted:Is it worth it for me to offload my mars pro and get a Saturn?
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Apr 25, 2022 20:26
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Ego Trip posted:] This invite has expired does anyone have an up to date one? I can't find it via google
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Apr 26, 2022 00:38
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Sockser posted:Cross-posting from regular printer thread I'm very happy that I upgraded from the Mars 2 to the Saturn.
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Apr 26, 2022 03:52
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Communist Thoughts posted:This invite has expired does anyone have an up to date one? https://discord.gg/5yhXkVKn97
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Apr 26, 2022 06:22
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thanks! e: i'm dangerously close to biting the bullet and getting one of these machines anybody have any experience with the creality halot-one? thats the one i'm looking at atm Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 13:32
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No direct experience, but I'd avoid it. The same price gets you something from the big 2, which have legions of active users out there testing them and reporting issues.
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Apr 26, 2022 15:31
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Doctor Zero posted:When you hit Autosupport it uses your current support settings and also the support density slider. Yeah I would. I'd also appreciate some notes on rescale presupports. I think some have options to reconfigure supports if you rescale but I have no idea of knowing which models are actually able to do that in Lychee. Just throwing it out there is it ever worth paying the fee for pro if I'm just a casual hobby printer? Haven't missed it so far.
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Apr 26, 2022 15:31
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I've been on a marathon print session the past two weeks prepping a gift for someone, including a pile of assorted minis I've been kitbashing together The latest batch... won't completely cure? Like I ran them through the mercury wash for 15 minutes, hosed them down, dried them off, ran them through the cure for 15, and they were sticky. Ran another 15, still sticky. Back through the wash cycle, back through the cure, still sticky I did a half-change on my wash IPA in case that's the issue, but even with my alcohol at its dirtiest I've never experienced this before. Any ideas?
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Apr 26, 2022 17:13
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Not sure if this is the cause, but 15 minutes seems like an extremely long time to wash them. I do 2-4 minutes tops.
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Apr 26, 2022 17:54
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Sounds like the resin might be "bad", maybe it separated, or was contaminated in some way.
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Apr 26, 2022 18:16
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Ego Trip posted:No direct experience, but I'd avoid it. Which are the big two? Elegoo and someone? Creality seems pretty common here in the UK, whereas elegoo doesn't seem to have a UK store and the cheapest available seems to be the Mars 2 Pro which costs 50-70 quid more. Which I could spend on a curing machine or resin instead, or both. Are the elegoo machines that much better? What's the other brand of the big two I should check out for a cheapish machine?
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Apr 26, 2022 18:46
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Elegoo and Anycubic I'm not saying that another machine won't be 100% what you need or want. I do all my printing on an Epax, for example. Just that there's a lot more people using Elegoo and Anycubic printers, so there's more support available.
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Apr 26, 2022 19:07
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I just got some new resin to play around with (Siraya Tech Fast) and poked a hope in my FEP cleaning the old resin out  Guess I'll try it out in a couple days when the new FEP sheets come...
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Apr 27, 2022 00:34
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Mikey Purp posted:Not sure if this is the cause, but 15 minutes seems like an extremely long time to wash them. I do 2-4 minutes tops. I doubt it. I go really crazy washing some models and I've never had a problem with cure times. You can end up with slightly sticky prints after curing if your wash alcohol is too dirty. You contaminate your print's surface with the same cured goop that gets left behind if you leave a jar of used IPA to separate. I've had that happen even when the print still looks more or less okay.
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Apr 27, 2022 01:23
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Got an anycubic photon etc 4k in the end and some of that siraya resin, it's pretty dear in the UK though, any UK or euro goons know of some cheaper stuff that's any good?
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Apr 27, 2022 11:06
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