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As long as it’s not for vegetables I wouldn’t care. Are these screaming high lead levels? Like 5,000+ ppm?
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Apr 25, 2022 14:46
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How hazardous would it be to scrub plane that paint off in big chonky flakes? That would definitely be superior to sanding it.
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Apr 25, 2022 14:49
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Rutibex posted:Whatever you do wear a resparator and clean up after yourself very carefully. Power sanding lead paint feels like a very bad idea. Good sir, I have like 10 pages of posts in the covid thread, I’m protected   seriously thanks for the reminder, lots of people wouldn’t know Deteriorata posted:Using them outside, I would just add another coat of paint to passivate it as much as possible and leave it alone. It will leave a small amount of contamination outside as the wood rots and paint peels, but it should be well-mixed with the ground and is unlikely to go anywhere or cause any further problems. What kind of paint would you recommend? Some kind of oil based primer? A lacquer? Acrylic/water based wouldn’t hold up I’d think. You’re probably right about the low amount of lead to be largely insignificant but I would feel bad about not taking steps to protect my environment. BigFactory posted:As long as it’s not for vegetables I wouldn’t care. Are these screaming high lead levels? Like 5,000+ ppm? No idea, I just used the lead testing strips and they turned “red for lead” immediately. Definitely not for vegetables but I also don’t wanna contaminate the soil just as a general principle BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Apr 25, 2022 |
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Apr 25, 2022 14:55
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:I have a bunch of 6"x6" beams that I salvaged from a house I'm remodeling and I wanted to use them as borders for flowerbeds, etc. I tested them for lead and a few seem to have been painted w lead paint. What's the best way to remediate this? Sanding, planing, power washing, coating w another layer of paint? Scrap as much off in an area you can clean completely. Don’t use a heat gun. Planing will create larger dust particles, so that’s the way to go. Once you’re seeing clean wood you should be okay to use it wherever. Wear a respirator and don’t track the dust all over your house. Don’t use lead paint in the garden even in flower beds. When it leaches into the soil it won’t go away and the next person won’t know those bad lead paint in them. Same concept as the old pressure treated wood. It’s not great for the water table either, but it wouldn’t be enough to move the needle there.
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Apr 25, 2022 15:03
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:What kind of paint would you recommend? Some kind of oil based primer? A lacquer? Acrylic/water based wouldn’t hold up I’d think. You’re probably right about the low amount of lead to be largely insignificant but I would feel bad about not taking steps to protect my environment. Lead Defender is an example. There are others out there, as well. I don't have a particular brand to recommend - I suspect they're all functionally equivalent.
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Apr 25, 2022 15:07
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:No idea, I just used the lead testing strips and they turned “red for lead” immediately. Definitely not for vegetables but I also don’t wanna contaminate the soil just as a general principle If it’s low lead levels and/or passes TCLP for leachability it’s probably not contaminating anything above background. If you’re in anything close to an urban setting there’s already lead in the soil.
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Apr 25, 2022 16:40
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CommonShore posted:How hazardous would it be to scrub plane that paint off in big chonky flakes? That would definitely be superior to sanding it. This and a paint scraper strike me as the "cleanest" options. Then maybe re-test, seal them with something durable, or they'll be termite buffet before you can say Jack Plane.
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Apr 25, 2022 17:26
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Anyone have opinions on upgrading table saw blades? I've been using the Diablo ones from HD for years and they are basically fine, but I wonder what a better blade would really get me. My only real complaint about the Diablo ones is they don't seem real stiff? I have the Freud/diabla dado set with the chippers with 2 teeth on them, also from HD, and basically it's fine, but if there's something lightyears better I would love to know about that too. I need to get my current blades sharpened so I need to get another set of something to fill in while the current ones get sharpened (if it's even worth sharpening these)
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Apr 25, 2022 17:41
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Also, 6"x6" lumber is suuuuper overkill for raised garden beds? That stuff is legit valuable these days. We built our beds using pressure treated 2x6 from the big box store and it's holding up fine.
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Apr 25, 2022 17:41
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Leperflesh posted:Also, 6"x6" lumber is suuuuper overkill for raised garden beds? That stuff is legit valuable these days. We built our beds using pressure treated 2x6 from the big box store and it's holding up fine. Super overkill, but when it’s free-adjacent? I don’t have anything over 2x6 in my garden either and most of it’s 2x4s. Even regular untreated stuff will last in a lot of climates for 5-7 years. I think the exception is the SE US and their hot humidity. My stuff in the PNW is about 6-7 years old and it’s just falling apart where they did a crappy job with short screws. The bulk of it is only just starting to grow mycelium next to it.
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Apr 25, 2022 18:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone have opinions on upgrading table saw blades? I've been using the Diablo ones from HD for years and they are basically fine, but I wonder what a better blade would really get me. My only real complaint about the Diablo ones is they don't seem real stiff? I have the Freud/diabla dado set with the chippers with 2 teeth on them, also from HD, and basically it's fine, but if there's something lightyears better I would love to know about that too. I'm on a hobbyist budget, so I just recently grabbed some of the CMT Orange Chrome blades. I got them from Katz-Moses because I also wanted a stop block and hey, free shipping. I got the 40T general purpose blade, the 24T rip blade, and the 60T crosscut blade, all full kerf. I haven't used the crosscut blade yet, but the other two are a nice upgrade over the Diablo I've been using.
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Apr 25, 2022 18:42
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:What kind of paint would you recommend? Some kind of oil based primer? A lacquer? Acrylic/water based wouldn’t hold up I’d think. You’re probably right about the low amount of lead to be largely insignificant but I would feel bad about not taking steps to protect my environment. Same stuff you'd use to keep the non-pressure-treated beams you're sticking in the ground from immediately rotting, any coating rated for outdoor/ground contact will seal it in and protect the area from it more effectively than sanding it off and getting lead everywhere that way will, and that should be an entire section at the hardware store. Lead paint is fairly inert until you go and do something to get it into your body, the bigger environmental hazard here will probably be planting these termite farms near any wood structures full of more nasty stuff. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Apr 25, 2022 |
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Apr 25, 2022 20:13
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Leperflesh posted:Also, 6"x6" lumber is suuuuper overkill for raised garden beds? That stuff is legit valuable these days. We built our beds using pressure treated 2x6 from the big box store and it's holding up fine. 100% agreed but free is free, money is short, and I think they’ll look better as a decorative border than 2x stuff. I replaced the posts in an old building where the big brained framers put conventional posts directly onto concrete slab and the bottoms were rotting out. Still, once I cut the rotted part off I was left w ~60ft of 6x6  Thanks for the great input everyone, I think I’ll try my luck w the outdoor sealant. Seems like scraping/planing the paint off would spread the lead more than painting over it, even if the paint/sealant has to get touched up E: 
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Apr 25, 2022 21:13
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Having previously worked for a paint company, the best remediation is just to maintain it and paint over. It's really only dangerous once it starts peeling and chipping off. Assuming you can live with a painted surface outside that's the no brainer solution, just paint over it. You're exactly right, trying to remove it just makes the situation riskier. A sliding scale between chemical stripping/scraping to sanding (holy poo poo no), but all worse than leaving it if you can. Even if you factor some of it getting into the surrounding landscape you'd just be literally NIMBYing the issue to somewhere else. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 00:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone have opinions on upgrading table saw blades? I've been using the Diablo ones from HD for years and they are basically fine, but I wonder what a better blade would really get me. My only real complaint about the Diablo ones is they don't seem real stiff? I have the Freud/diabla dado set with the chippers with 2 teeth on them, also from HD, and basically it's fine, but if there's something lightyears better I would love to know about that too. I do not have a strong opinion, but I happen to have just bought a Freud Industrial 24T rip blade (which isn't a $100 blade but is around $70) and have a Diablo blade right here too (combination blade but the overall build quality doesn't seem to change much between them)--this post prompted me to look at them a little closer. I'm not an experienced woodworker, but there's some obvious stuff around material quality that jumps right out, and a lot of it you can see just from looking at their profiles side by side: https://www.diablotools.com/products/D1050X vs https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU84R011 https://www.diablotools.com/products/D1024X vs https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM72R010 What surprised me, but shouldn't have in retrospect, is that the Freud Industrial blade is heavy by comparison. I didn't weigh them, but the kerf on the Freud blades is .126" instead of the Diablo's .098" so the significant weight increase makes sense and the wider kerf strikes me as likely to be the biggest difference in using them--saw power, etc. (I got the blade mostly for doing dadoes without having to gently caress with a dado stack, so having it be almost exactly 1/8" was a plus for me. Less braining required.) The carbides are much, much bigger, probably around 60% taller and almost twice as thick (which will obviously matter way more if one is to sharpen them; it seems like sharpening the little carbides on the cheap blades might not really be worth it). In addition to being heavier, where mass will help dissipate heat more, the laser-cut anti-vibration cuts seem more extensive? But who knows if that actually does much. Just from a materials perspective it seems very likely that the more expensive blade is going to wear slower and be way more repairable, right? But will it cut better? That's beyond me. The kerf is wider; will that matter in general use? I dunno. The rake angle of the teeth is shallower on the more expensive blade; will that matter? I dunno that, either. I bought the more expensive blade because--well, gently caress it, the shop is for pissing around, I'll buy the nice one, and I have a saw for it now--but I doubt I could tell the difference. Guessing you might, though. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 02:07
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Leperflesh posted:Also, 6"x6" lumber is suuuuper overkill for raised garden beds? That stuff is legit valuable these days. We built our beds using pressure treated 2x6 from the big box store and it's holding up fine. Agreed. You can go out and spend actual money on some cinder blocks which need no treatment, clean up and use those beams for something fitting. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone have opinions on upgrading table saw blades? I've been using the Diablo ones from HD for years and they are basically fine, but I wonder what a better blade would really get me. My only real complaint about the Diablo ones is they don't seem real stiff? I have the Freud/diabla dado set with the chippers with 2 teeth on them, also from HD, and basically it's fine, but if there's something lightyears better I would love to know about that too. I think the tradeoff with fatter blades and wider set is they don't cut as aggressively as the thinner diablo. Mind, I've not bought or looked at diablo blades in 20 years since they came out, but that thinness is a certain advantage.
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Apr 26, 2022 04:12
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tracecomplete posted:I do not have a strong opinion, but I happen to have just bought a Freud Industrial 24T rip blade (which isn't a $100 blade but is around $70) and have a Diablo blade right here too (combination blade but the overall build quality doesn't seem to change much between them)--this post prompted me to look at them a little closer. I'm not an experienced woodworker, but there's some obvious stuff around material quality that jumps right out, and a lot of it you can see just from looking at their profiles side by side: more falafel please posted:I'm on a hobbyist budget, so I just recently grabbed some of the CMT Orange Chrome blades. I got them from Katz-Moses because I also wanted a stop block and hey, free shipping.
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Apr 27, 2022 01:08
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Bob Mundon posted:Having previously worked for a paint company, the best remediation is just to maintain it and paint over. It's really only dangerous once it starts peeling and chipping off. So the PO painted over basement cinderblock that now had efflorescence and peeling paint. What do.
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Apr 27, 2022 16:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks that's all super helpful. I hadn't ever noticed that the diablo ones are in fact thin kerf like Mambold said. It looks like the saw plate is 10-15% thicker on the full kerf which probably makes them a good bit stiffer in use. My saw is 5hp so I should have plenty of power to handle full kerf blades.
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Apr 27, 2022 17:49
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GEMorris posted:So the PO painted over basement cinderblock that now had efflorescence and peeling paint. What do. Ugh, gross if that's lead paint. Like I said typically best to keep it covered with something else but you're already past that point. Might be able to scrape off a minimum to where you have a decent surface and then repaint but you probably want to have someone look at it, that's a tricky one.
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Apr 27, 2022 18:22
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 Video Sadly, there is just the slightest sag in the middle. Enough to throw off the reveals. A center leg wouldn't be visible in use, but the towel rack is actually on drawer slides and it makes using it a pain. I think I'm going to add a back center leg, and brace the front runner. It's possible just the final glue up would cover it, since the top runners would actually be providing support then, but I don't trust it once loaded.
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Apr 27, 2022 19:12
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bobua posted:
I absolutely love what you’ve done with the grain patterning. It’s knock out gorgeous.
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Apr 27, 2022 19:25
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Jhet posted:I absolutely love what you’ve done with the grain patterning. It’s knock out gorgeous. Thanks, made those damned doors 4 times before I got it right, burned through a mountain of white oak. If I had been building this thing to make money I would have lost my rear end.
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Apr 27, 2022 19:40
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Hello thread, yesterday was woodworking Grandpa's 100th birthday! At 100 years old he still works in his shop every single day and has a list of orders as long as his arm. He drinks a Windsor and coke daily at 2:30 and has a shot or two of fireball every night before bed. We had a huge party for him with over a hundred guests. Everyone knows what he likes.   
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Apr 27, 2022 22:10
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That's awesome, good on you, granddad!
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Apr 27, 2022 22:15
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Hell yeah. I love all the sitting height workbenches. Custom work spaces are my favorite.
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Apr 27, 2022 22:24
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Salud y feliz cumpleaños Abuelo. The Greatest Generation.
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Apr 28, 2022 03:40
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Not so much woodworking as just framing, but I'm building a GEODESIC DOME in my back garden. I'm not sure why I'm building it, I just felt compelled to do so. Just the usual compulsive build, suggested by a piping dream voice during an uneasy sleep on a clear windless night under the cold indifferent glare of endless stars. Will mostly be used for getting high, chanting, pondering orbs, exploring portentous geometries, things of this nature. Decided to use roofing battens as they are cheap and plentiful. Some use broomsticks but She said that's a bit "on the nose", whatever that means.  A GEODESIC DOME requires two different lengths of rod. There are calculators available to tell you what length rods you need for a given diameter. This dome will be 4 meters wide. The connectors just screw into the end grain so it's important to use good screws to make sure they cut in, not just splitting the wood.  A combination of six-way and five-way connectors allows you to start building the dome from the middle.   For the base, I decided to build a seating area with nice wide and deep seating, but with enough room in the center for a fire pit (cleansing). Drawing it up in CAD I was able to make a handy combination BOM / cut-list with all the angles. Each length was labelled with a part number corresponding to the longest side and the two end angles, so 1231-18-36 would be a piece 1231mm long with an 18deg and 36deg cut on each end respectively. This made organising the whole build a lot easier.   Before I cut up the whole stack of lumber I built one of the 9 sacred sections as a sanity check. The angles all worked out (praise Her) so I just went and processed the whole cut list, took a couple of afternoons.   Making sure things level with the laser, and moving things into the proper alignment. This is where I'm up to so far. She says I can sleep when the dome is done, apparently it needs to be in place for some "alignment" next month. Yeah yeah, pipe pipe, keen keen, it will be done when it's done dream lady.  
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Apr 30, 2022 |
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Apr 30, 2022 10:20
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Super cool, thanks for sharing  is the dome tall enough to avoid getting burnt by the fire pit?
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Apr 30, 2022 14:15
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Super cool, thanks for sharing It’s only meant for midsommar parties, so no.
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Apr 30, 2022 14:16
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R buckminster fuller up in here.
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Apr 30, 2022 14:28
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I was just thinking to myself, "I haven't frivolously spent money on a hobby I barely have time to think about much less do lately." Ah, much better.
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Apr 30, 2022 16:44
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Where did you get the chisels, or what brand are they (I already have the knives lol), I've been wanting to put more carving texture on my pieces? Chip carving is really pretty but wow does it take time to do and is pretty tricky to practice being clean with.
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Apr 30, 2022 16:52
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El Spamo posted:Where did you get the chisels, or what brand are they (I already have the knives lol), I've been wanting to put more carving texture on my pieces? Gouges are Dastra, sourced from Diefenbacher Tools. Everything is in short supply right now, i still have a V-tool and fishtail on back order.
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Apr 30, 2022 16:57
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That dome is awesome and I can't wait to see more.
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May 4, 2022 06:09
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I've been working on putting a plexiglass top on top of our coffee table (so we can put assembled puzzles under the plexiglass for display). The top of the coffee table slides back and forth to reveal some storage area, and so to attach my plexiglass I can't bolt anything to the bottom. I assumed that the top was particle board, so I went with threaded inserts to screw the plexiglass into. Well I installed them today only to discover that the top (or at least the 4 corners that I drilled into) are actually hollow, like a hollow core door. So there's basically nothing for my threaded inserts to bite into. Three of the four corners are, somehow, miraculously still holding. But I plan on taking the top off occasionally to replace the puzzles, and one of the corners has already lost its grip. I don't need a lot of holding power, basically just enough to keep the plexiglass from sliding around when we put our feed on the table or slide the top over. Is there some kind of caulk/filler I could squirt into the hole that I could drill my threaded insert into? Is there some other kind of fastener I could use? In doing some research I came across "jack nuts" which appear like they might work for my case. The coffee table is black and since the screws are visible I'm using some black socket head machine screws, so a fastener that accepts a machine screw would probably be necessary.
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May 5, 2022 04:07
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jack nuts are exactly what you need, I'd say. They work a lot like some wallboard anchors and they accept machine screws. 6/32 or M4 would be almost invisible, though you'd probably want to use a washer since you're working with plex and it tends to crack easily.
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May 5, 2022 05:24
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Yeah that might could work, if I'm picturing it right. A photo or two might help, though. In theory you could fill a void with epoxy but if it's a huge void that'd be ridiculous (and expensive).
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May 5, 2022 05:30
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I'm working on some exterior signs for someone and they intend, after I pass them along, to add a bit of colour highlight with some exterior latex house paint. The project is a "we have these signs that were here when we bought the business can you replicate us more of them" project, so everything in material composition is best-guess from some 30-year-old examples which are themselves stained and varnished and painted. I want to hit the signs with some penetrating stain and a few layers of protective clear coat or varnish, so i have questions about mixing finishes: Will we have any adhesion problems at any point if I use basic varathane stain and then a polyurethane clear coat on top of that? Would an oil-based clear coat, which I can thin to let it really soak into the wood, provide a better or more protective coat? Would there be any benefit or harm to adding a layer of BLO to really seal the outside? Any other suggested finish compositions? I'm not super worried about getting a perfectly transparent clear coat because it's a rustic design and they'll be outside, so those concerns which sometimes come up in these conversations can easily be set aside in favour of weather-proofing.
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May 5, 2022 14:55
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CommonShore posted:I'm working on some exterior signs for someone and they intend, after I pass them along, to add a bit of colour highlight with some exterior latex house paint. The project is a "we have these signs that were here when we bought the business can you replicate us more of them" project, so everything in material composition is best-guess from some 30-year-old examples which are themselves stained and varnished and painted. I want to hit the signs with some penetrating stain and a few layers of protective clear coat or varnish, so i have questions about mixing finishes: If they are outside and get much sun/rain exposure at all, you need to use a good quality spar varnish. Helmsman from the big box places isn't great, but it's not awful. If you have a marine/boating supply place like West Marine near you, they'll have a much better selection. Epifanes is good. Spar varnish should be compatible with any stain as long as the stain is very dry-wait a few days to make sure. It's usually best to thin the first coat by about half with naptha or whatever the can says. You want 4-5 coats or whatever the can says. Don't bother oiling anything. It won't help and it might hurt. They should be able to paint over the spar varnish after it is fully cured. Spar varnish needs to be re-applied regularly, once every year or two depending on climate/exposure.
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May 5, 2022 17:48
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