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PBCrunch posted:If you have access to the back of the hole can you use something like this: This is a good option. Alternatively, here's a 1/4-20 insert that's 1/2" deep. I've used these and they work well.\ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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May 2, 2022 20:36
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EVERYWHERE 
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I like the Hanson trays since you can just grab the whole tray and take it to whatever you're working but that toolgrid system is really appealing.
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May 2, 2022 22:18
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I was (me and a friend) cutting too big of plywood on a table saw and uh, it got stuck. No injuries but I might have bent the saw blade (or the motor moved funny or both) which is pretty embarrassing. I'll have to see if I can avoid buying a new table saw by fixing whatever's wrong tomorrow. (we would have hit the emergency stop when it got stuck but we couldn't reach it) It wasn't a very expensive portable (not any major brand table saw that I can find online) so here's hoping I don't have to drop $300 
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May 3, 2022 02:42
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I guess I need brake line tools now. I hear cupro-nickel is the way to go, and that it may not need a bender? I need to be able to do 10mm double flares. What are the brands I should be looking at and what kind of prices?
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May 3, 2022 03:10
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Advent Horizon posted:I guess I need brake line tools now. Copper-nickel is 100% the way to go. Will you be flaring on the bench or on the car? I have a handful of inline flaring tools from Napa that I've been reasonably happy with, this style: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/tube-flaring-tool/p/oemtools-in-line-flaring-tool-kit/238197_0_0 Otherwise anything Eastwood seems to be top notch when it comes to flaring brake lines. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html
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May 3, 2022 03:43
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Thanks for the drawer organizer recommendations, I'm gonna use this as an excuse to go to the new HF 5 minutes away this weekend.
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May 3, 2022 03:46
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Advent Horizon posted:I guess I need brake line tools now. Fedhill sells very nice brake line. I've seen scary pics of brake line with defects on Amazon. Would you like me to mail you all my brake line tools, including cutter, straightener, bending pliers, AN flare tool, inverted flare tool, a bag of random leftover fittings, and some brake line scraps? You can ship them back in a month or whenever you're done. It'll cost about $15 each way for USPS priority flat rate.
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May 3, 2022 04:11
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I wouldn’t be done in a month - if I have the tools I’ll probably start looking for projects. Might as well replace the fuel lines, too. The FJ62 I broke lines on is now on a barge south for a road trip in a few weeks. I was thinking if I buy tools I could start with the FJ62 I ‘borrowed’ lines from. Then, after I get some experience, I’d likely do the vehicle I actually broke them on. This needs to get rolling again though: 
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May 3, 2022 04:19
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PitViper posted:Copper-nickel is 100% the way to go. Will you be flaring on the bench or on the car? I have a handful of inline flaring tools from Napa that I've been reasonably happy with, this style: This post is 100% correct. I've got that exact oem tools flare and it's the best I've ever used. You can easily bend nickel copper line by hand. It'll be kinda wavy though. If you want everything looking like factory then get a straightener and some bending tools.
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May 3, 2022 14:47
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On my brake project, the straightener was more helpful than the bending pliers. Both were handy, but if I had to pick only one, it'd be the straightener.
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May 3, 2022 15:23
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Yeah, I've done the copper nickel lines by hand, but they definitely don't look as tight/neat as OEM. Being easy to form by hand also means they're easy to un-form as you're putting them in, so they may need additional clips/holders and time to make them look really tidy if that's your thing.
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May 3, 2022 15:23
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I was (me and a friend) cutting too big of plywood on a table saw and uh, it got stuck. Check the blade for flatness by putting it on a very flat surface. Any time you have an incident with the table saw you should also carefully inspect the teeth for chips and cracks. Chipped carbide teeth can fracture further with continued use and send little shards flying around the workshop. It might be a good time to get a new blade if you are still using the one that came with the saw. If you are using a rip blade (few teeth, deep gullets) to cut plywood you might want to get a blade specifically for sheet goods (many teeth, finer cut, less tearing when making cross-grain cuts). Unplug the saw. Take a known good blade and install it in the saw. Raise the blade all the way up. Pick one tooth on the blade and mark it. Rotate the blade so it is at the front of the table just about ready to go under the table. Check the distance between the edge of the tooth and one of the miter slots. Spin the blade by hand so that same tooth is at the back, just about to go under the table. Repeat the measurement to the miter slot. These values should be the same. If they are not, check the manual for the saw for how to adjust it. When you know the blade is aligned to the table, check the alignment to the fence the same way. You should have a tiny bit more distance between the fence and the blade at the back. This reduces the chance of kickback. Your fence is almost certainly adjustable, but really cheap saws might not have any adjustment to align the blade with the miter slots/table. When cutting sheet goods like plywood a safer approach is to get a 1" thick piece of insulating foam board. Put it on the ground. Put the sheet on the foam. Measure and mark the sheet, giving yourself a little bit of leeway (1/2" is probably a good place to start). Clamp down some kind of straight edge. Use the straight edge as a fence to guide a circular saw. The makeshift fence will help avoid any binding with the circular saw. Once your pieces are cut a little oversize, cut them to final dimensions on the table saw. Yes, this is extra steps. But you will get better results and it is much safer than trying to wrangle a heavy sheet of plywood or MDF on a table saw. The hospital is many extra steps. The foam will keep your saw blade away from the concrete and it will support the wood fibers during the cut, reducing tear out. Consider putting some kind of mark on the factory edges so you know to put those against the fence (not the circular cut side) when trimming to final dimensions. A table saw will gently caress you up in a hurry and it won't give much notice that something bad is about to happen. If something feels wrong, stop, turn the saw off, and evaluate the situation. There is always a safe way to make a given cut. If your table saw is broken or can't be adjusted, don't spend $300 on a new one. You won't get anything good for that price. Around me, old Craftsman saws trade hands for ~$100 every day. Models with a better fence are often available for $200-300. They aren't as portable as new saws because of the motor hanging out the back and the heavy cast iron table, but they work very well and usually have very flat tables. If your projects involve sheet goods much more than lumber, consider a track saw. These are a lot like the method of cutting the sheet on the floor with a circular saw, but they ride on a track. The track edge is cut by the saw on first use, so the edge of the track shows exactly where the cut is going to be. Track saws typically provide excellent results. As a bonus, a track saw takes up way less space than a table saw when not in use and is lightweight and portable. A top-name cordless track saw will cost quite a bit ($800ish). If you have a Menards in your area, they sell a corded track saw for about $200 that is supposed to work pretty well once you replace the blade that comes in the box. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 15:42 on May 3, 2022 |
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May 3, 2022 15:26
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Advent Horizon posted:I guess I need brake line tools now. Others are right about tools and line. 
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May 3, 2022 15:38
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Shouldn't that be "PUT BOTH NUTS ON IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION BEFORE YOU FLARE"?
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May 3, 2022 15:42
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PitViper posted:Being easy to form by hand also means they're easy to un-form as you're putting them in, so they may need additional clips/holders and time to make them look really tidy if that's your thing. Isn't that what the busted rear end OEM lines are for? (to zip tie your new cunifer lines to?)
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May 3, 2022 16:21
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Are cupro-nickel, copper-nickel, and cunifer all the same thing? (and also Nicop, as heard in Youtube videos about brake lines)?
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May 3, 2022 18:24
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Motronic posted:Isn't that what the busted rear end OEM lines are for? (to zip tie your new cunifer lines to?) When I did the lines for my BMW ABS in the Miata I found that the brake lines would hammer against the chassis when the ABS pump was recharging or doing its anti-knockback routine even when they were what I felt to be secured well, so I'd be worried about them eventually cracking or rubbing through if not mounted pretty well. Probably not an issue for a non-ABS car. I tried the previously linked flare tools and I found them to be annoying to work with, especially if you need to flare oem steel line. If you're doing more than a couple of flares and you're able to work off the car or you need different flares I found this thing super nice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HOXH242/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:38 on May 3, 2022 |
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May 3, 2022 18:35
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So there are hydraulic crimpers, hydraulic swaging tools, hydraulic bolt cutters, hydraulic flaring tools, hydraulic rivet guns, etc. It would be awesome if some company would make a "base" hydraulic cylinder and inexpensive swappable heads for the base cylinder. This would save a lot of toolbox space and presumably some money. Yes, some folks use a hydraulic crimper or brake flare tool enough that taking the heads on and off the base cylinder would consume a meaningful amount of time, but I bet there is a market for people that use different hydraulic tools but infrequently enough that the cost and space savings would be worthwhile. Like a tool battery but its a hydraulic cylinder. While we're really dreaming, why can't a floor jack divert its hydraulic beans to other tasks?
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May 3, 2022 21:37
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That might be tricky, as those different applications have different motion range and force requirements.
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May 3, 2022 22:09
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More power, you say? Speaking of hydraulic, a friend suggested a MasterCool hydraulic flare tool. It looks really nice but for >$300 I might as well buy pre-bent lines.
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May 3, 2022 22:29
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Something I have always wanted but absolutely do not need is a brake line flare lapping tool. https://www.amazon.com/KOUL-tools-SurSeat-Lapper-Steel/dp/B01D8ZXCXU/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Koul+Tools&qid=1651613308&sr=8-8 It just looks so cool! Think how uniform it will be!
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May 3, 2022 22:30
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I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B6FFQR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Was pretty worried about leaving some shavings in the line by accident
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May 3, 2022 22:41
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I use the OEM tools 24364 inline flaring tool 99% of the time. The rest of the time I've got this kind of crummy tool off Amazon that does multiple sizes and kinds of flares but I don't recommend it, low quality. Definitely do cunifer and yes all those names are the same thing.
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May 3, 2022 22:52
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I'm officially a convert to electric vs air impacts. I picked up the Makita XWT15 midtorque a couple weeks ago, and today I used it to pop an axle hub nut loose that I'm confident hasn't been touched for at least 15 years, and very likely since 1992. I went back and forth about the midtorque vs the big high torque models, but I think the midtorque was the best size for most car work. As a bonus, using it to do both wheel bearings only dropped one bar on a 5ah battery.
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May 4, 2022 00:38
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My dad only has a ≈5 gal air compressor and I can loosen maybe 5 bolts before it kicks in to recompress the air. Battery powered impacts are awesome in comparison!
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May 4, 2022 01:09
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Looks like harbor freight killed their bead roller. Current need is to put a lip on some 1.5" tube ends but will need it for sheet metal fab later too. Any that you really like?
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May 4, 2022 04:10
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Battery powered tools really have replaced 90% of air tools the past 10ish years. I rarely fire up a compressor anymore unless I'm doing something with a tire or blowing out my irrigation before winter. Maybe an airbrush? I actually can't think of the last time I used an air tool.
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May 4, 2022 04:40
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Blow gun and tire inflator are about all I’ve got left. I love how much quieter the cordless motors are, no more high-pitched whining from die grinders and recip saws.
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May 4, 2022 05:16
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Air hammers are still way ahead of anything electric.
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May 4, 2022 05:36
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Air hammer would be one for sure but I don't think I've ever used one at home.
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May 4, 2022 05:37
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I can't live without shop air. Even if I threw out all my air tools I would still have a compressor just for an air gun. I even got a little compressor for my electronics lab because walking downstairs to the garage to blow stuff off was too much of a hassle.
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May 4, 2022 06:36
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Uthor posted:My dad only has a ≈5 gal air compressor and I can loosen maybe 5 bolts before it kicks in to recompress the air. Battery powered impacts are awesome in comparison! In fairness a 5 gallon air tank isn't suitable for much beyond poo poo like nail guns. For air impacts and ratchets etc, 20 gallon is bare minimum and even thats barely adequate.
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May 4, 2022 11:32
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slidebite posted:Air hammer would be one for sure but I don't think I've ever used one at home. Youtubr Channel Torque Test Channel has a video or two suggesting cordless SDS hammer drills have smacking power in the ballpark of an air hammer. SDS drills are much heavier, bulkier, and more expensive than the typical air hammer, but perhaps the air hammer's days are numbered. I use my compressor with 60 gallon tank for blowing dust off of things and for running a media blaster. I air up tires with a cordless inflator because I can punch in a pressure, connect the the little noise box, and walk off for five minutes. When I come back the pressure is pretty much where I want it. I bought a cheap air pulse blow gun on the advice of someone in the detailing thread. I bought it to use on the dirt-velcro carpet in my wife's CR-V. I haven't used it for that, but it works wonders on cleaning a dirty vacuum filter. It made the filters from my shop vac and our Ryobi cordless stick vac look factory fresh. I normally vacuum the filter off with another cyclone-equipped shop vac and the brush attachment. I did that first, but the filter was still... gray. The pulse gun with its own brush made it white. The brush on the pulse gun kept the dust in check a little bit compared to the regular air blow gun. This gun. I'm not really sure what the little bottle is for, but it has a valve to turn it off. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 14:40 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 14:38
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PBCrunch posted:Shouldn't that be "PUT BOTH NUTS ON IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION BEFORE YOU FLARE"? And on top of that, keep the nut drat close to where you are flaring and past anything that resembles a bend of more than a couple of degrees.
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May 4, 2022 16:01
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C-Bangin' it 
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My air compressor comes out for the usual stuff like inflating tires but also for the air hammer because sometimes you need to get something out and don't want to torch it out, vacuum brake bleeder and if I am changing valve springs without wanting to remove the head from the block. Electric impacts, cutting tools and ratchets replaced the rest.
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May 4, 2022 16:31
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Oh I also use a pneumatic 23-gauge pin nailer (edit: pin nailer, not brad nailer) once in a while. The hose makes it kind of an rear end-pain to use even in the garage, so it is on the short list of air tools to be deprecated. It double sucks when I want to use the nailer in the house and I have to drag the dirty air hose inside. Oof, a cordless 23-gauge pin nailer is almost twice as expensive as a 18-gauge brad nailer. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 17:09
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PBCrunch posted:Oh I also use a pneumatic brad nailer once in a while. The hose makes it kind of an rear end-pain to use even in the garage, so it is on the short list of air tools to be deprecated. It double sucks when I want to use the nailer in the house and I have to drag the dirty air hose inside. I bought a 5gal air tank and a 5ft hose a few years ago that I fill up in the garage and carry around the house with me for that kind of stuff. Keeps the dirty garage house out of the house and I'm not limited by the hose length. It's great for taking to my MIL's for small jobs too.
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May 4, 2022 17:26
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PBCrunch posted:Oh I also use a pneumatic 23-gauge pin nailer (edit: pin nailer, not brad nailer) once in a while. The hose makes it kind of an rear end-pain to use even in the garage, so it is on the short list of air tools to be deprecated. It double sucks when I want to use the nailer in the house and I have to drag the dirty air hose inside. I bought a dedicated air hose for clean work due to exactly this. It was the cheapest/easiest solution. Someday I might drop the coin on a Makita 18v brad nailer - but not any time soon. Obviously a cheaper hose will work just fine, but here's what I bought. https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Heavy-Lightweight-Hybrid-ZillaGreen/dp/B008BT4FEO the spyder fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 17:53
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PBCrunch posted:Youtubr Channel Torque Test Channel has a video or two suggesting cordless SDS hammer drills have smacking power in the ballpark of an air hammer. SDS drills are much heavier, bulkier, and more expensive than the typical air hammer, but perhaps the air hammer's days are numbered. I saw that, but the size and cost alone make those non-starters for me. Even if I didn't already have a 26 gallon compressor, buying one new and an air hammer is still cheaper than buying a M18 SDS hammer as a bare tool to use with the batteries I already have. I prefer battery for as many things as possible but anything where "pressure operated cylinder" is the best solution to accomplish the task is probably going to stay pneumatic.
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May 4, 2022 18:03
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I am blessed to have a laundry chute in my house with access from the basement and both upper floors, so I have a basic compressor in the basement and a clean hose to fish up through the chute when I need it. The chute is central in the house and I can reach anywhere I need with it. It’s been so good having a remotely mounted compressor, cuts down on noise a ton.
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May 4, 2022 18:58
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