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The Royal Nonesuch posted:burritos go in the engine bay ffs Yeah but you need backups for second breakfast and elevensies
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Feb 27, 2022 23:06
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Were people bypassing that tree around to the right? Looks like tracks, but perhaps difficult to get down the other side depending on tires and clearance.
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Mar 5, 2022 19:28
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No, thats just another trail that just comes close. Some of the newer SxS could have made it up the steep path to the left, or quads under it, but nothing bigger.
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Mar 9, 2022 00:58
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Okay, I've been driving an '08 Liberty Sport since I bought it used in 2012. It's been great, and has almost 200k miles on it at this point. It's been paid off forever, which has been awesome. Lately I've had to start putting more money into repairs - a door window regulator, a door latch, window switches, two drive shafts/CV shafts (the main drive shaft and the front left shaft), and the front right wheel bearing. I anticipate that the front left wheel bearing and front right axle are due to go soon. It is also starting to get perforating rust damage, though only on the tailgate so far. I was going to try and get one more year out of it while I saved up a downpayment for a replacement. But today a coworker asked me if I wanted to buy his daughter's 2016 Renegade Trailhawk. The tl;dr of it is, it's got a "rebuilt" title so the price is very attractive. He's had it for years and hasn't had any issues. It was rebuilt by a dude downstate with a good reputation and my coworker has bought several other vehicles from him without issue. It's got 75k miles on it, and average market price for one with a clean title seems to be around 15k right now with those miles. He said his rock-bottom price was 11k, which means financing might actually cover it (I guess they do 70% of market value on a car with a rebuilt title). I have money for a downpayment on a vehicle at that price, but was worried about the amount I had because everything else worth buying seems to be 20k and up no matter how old or how many miles it has on it. I took it for a quick test drive today and it felt pretty good for the most part, but I did notice one thing. Under hard acceleration, it feels like the drivetrain is vibrating or shaking or something. Not a ton, but it was noticeable. It doesn't do it under gentle acceleration, and it doesn't do it at constant speed or while decelerating. Is that normal? Is the transmission about to go? I know it's even less of a "real" Jeep than my Liberty, but I really don't know much about the Fiat Jeeps. Most review sites say it's decent but lacking in cargo space (not a big deal since I used to drive Imprezas). US News said the Renegade has a 2 out of five rating for reliability, which seems bad, but they also say that about my Liberty that I've never had any trouble with.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:08
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torgeaux posted:Ok, some problems cropping up. JKU, 82k, manual transmission. Welp. It never got better, never got worse. No engine codes. Finally, yesterday, happened again and this time the engine light came on. Got home, plugged in the OBDlink, and, PO335, crankshaft position sensor. 10 minutes later, replaced, engine light out.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:21
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infrared35 posted:
Not sure if you bought this, but my sister has one. Its a nifty thing with a fun roof but poor mileage for what it is. Concerningly, she had it in the shop under warranty for burning oil to the point the light would come on every 1k miles. The did a sealed oil consumption test, did an ECU flash, another consumption test and called it good. If the test failed, she would have gotten a new engine. Fast forward 6 months and ~3k miles, and the oil light is back on and basically below the dip stick again. Clearly their fix was temporary, and if someone wasn't up on the maintenance I could see noises developing quickly. Her's only has ~40k on the clock.
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Apr 10, 2022 02:00
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Time to figure out an A/C issue. I just recharged my freon, and the A/C WAS clicking on and working for several minutes... but then it wasn't? Now every so often the clutch WILL engage a few times, then stop again. I'm thinking I either overcharged the system, or the clutch is going bad. I checked the pressure on the low side while the clutch was disengaged and it seems high (65+). I might also have a leaky Schrader valve on the low-side port. Gonna check it again in the morning to see if the pressure changed at all.
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Apr 15, 2022 23:59
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Looks like I found the issue. The low-pressure sensor was going bad. The clutch worked okay when I jumped the circuit and I was getting ice-cold air in the cabin, and I checked the pressure again on both sides and it looks fine. Checked for leaks again and I couldn't find any. Luckily we're gonna have mild weather this week, but I'll definitely replace the sensor tomorrow when the stores are actually open again.
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Apr 18, 2022 01:52
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I'm going mad here. I need to replace the radiator in the XJ and I can't work out what I'm up against. It's a '94 4.0, RHD, auto and has the transmission cooler lines on the right. The bottom trans line is a barb / flare hose fitting. Whatever you want to call it. The core is about 45mm deep. It's a brass radiatior. Looks old. Is it the original? I was going to chuck an eBay aluminium radiator in because OE style is horribly expensive, and the other sort has plastic end tanks. gently caress that. The rads all have different core depths listed.Like there's a single core which has 26mm. There are 4 cores at 51 and 56mm deep. And others with sizes in between. I'd love a 4 core, but the extra 11mm puts the already too-close Grand Cherokee fan clutch at about 10mm distance from the radiator. Fan clutches are about $100 so I'm not sure what the hell my best choice is and what will fit. That went in because fo a previous fan clutch failure and the need for more cooling. Some of the 4 core rads and a few others have a threaded fitting at the bottom trans cooler, and I wouldn;t have a clue how to take that from threaded to hose fitting. I've got the old radiator out. It has an end tank seam leak. Water pressure, or rather flow rate here is pretty bad so I can't do much with water. But I'm pretty sure from what I was getting out of it that it has some calcification issues. The weird noises I was hearing when running water through it, and flushing out a bunch of bright green coolant after having ran a lot of water through it the day before hints to me there are blockages. Also being able to get the temperature up into the red in about ten seconds from normal operating temp when I load it is pretty damning. I finally managed to get hold of another high flow thermostat. That's waiting to go in. No hurry because I need a new radiator in it anyway. And an idler pulley which I've already ordered. So what's the best course of action for the bloody thing? It needs a good cooling system but it's barely a show pony even by post-apocalyptic standards.
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Apr 24, 2022 07:15
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Up until about a year ago there was a local radiator shop that would take the end tanks off, boil and poke rods down the tubes, and then replace the tanks. Maybe something similar exists near you??
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Apr 24, 2022 16:05
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Flush that block for sure if you're getting radiator blockages. For the radiator honestly I run the cheap plastic tank ones. They usually last me 5 to 10 years unless I poke a stick through them off-road. Use whatever fits core thickness wise, I've worked them pretty hard even in 100 degree heat and as long as the rest of the system isn't worn out they do fine, and if the rest of the system is worn out I fix that instead of trying to band aid it with a thicker radiator. Some years used a 3/8 inverted (or non inverted, you'll need to put your eyes on it) flare at the lower coolant line, some used a brazed-in elbow with a quick connect barb on it. Some aftermarket radiators use a little adapter so they can sell the same radiator for all years and you just throw out the parts baggie if you don't need it. Note, this is all LHD centric. I've not worked on the RHD ones. I would expect it to be different configuration but probably same fastener sizes. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Apr 24, 2022 |
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Apr 24, 2022 16:19
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Commodore_64 posted:Up until about a year ago there was a local radiator shop that would take the end tanks off, boil and poke rods down the tubes, and then replace the tanks. Maybe something similar exists near you?? Problem is that replacement radiators are so cheap that there's not enough business left to support radiator repair for the vast majority of cars on the road. These shops are evaporating.
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Apr 24, 2022 22:22
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Commodore_64 posted:Up until about a year ago there was a local radiator shop that would take the end tanks off, boil and poke rods down the tubes, and then replace the tanks. Maybe something similar exists near you?? I wish. I had to pony up and get a new brass rad shipped from Ukraine ??? years back. I'm going to say 5 because I have no idea. The postage was as much as the radiator. The old one had blockages and an end tank seam leak. Same scenario as the Jeep radiator. kastein posted:Flush that block for sure if you're getting radiator blockages. quote:
I do agree though. Not going for a band-aid. But I don't want to take a step backwards either. Also yes this is the same problem from a couple of months ago maybe? but it's mostly been sitting in the yard because other things needed attention more. I know it's not exactly a test of the water pump but I gave the pulley a spin by hand after I'd pulled off the thermostat housing. The rad was still in and coolant was up to that level. Plenty of resistance from the coolant, and it happily overflowed from the hole in the head. Although I've never changed it, it looks like a newer part. At least I know it moves coolant. quote:
The bottom oil line has an (I assume) brazed on elbow with just the standard sort of bubble flare kind of thing for pushing a hose on to. The annoying thing about the after market ones with the fitting instead of the elbow is they don't seem to come with the adapter. I'm pretty sure I don't have a stray from other swaps because autos have been in a minority.
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Apr 25, 2022 01:17
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Man that sucks, I'm not seeing just the fitting for sale anywhere either. But looking on rockauto for a 96 (I can't recall if yours is a 95 or 96) it looks like all the aftermarket RHD ones come with the elbow preinstalled? Edit: if you already have one without, is it inverted or regular flare? I'll see if I can find an adapter. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Apr 25, 2022 |
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Apr 25, 2022 03:11
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Well, you might not be able to find a place to do it, but you can watch some guy on youtube take a radiator apart. Very satisfying, not very helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w36zxJWCgGk
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Apr 25, 2022 04:37
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I'm going to go eat my words. I thought it was a flare connection on the bottom trans cooler connection on the current radiator. I just cut the rubber off it. https://imgur.com/a/ASXezQT Must have been a hell of an effort to cram the hose on over that.
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Apr 29, 2022 04:46
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Kirk Johnson Radiator Repair
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Apr 29, 2022 06:23
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ryanrs posted:Kirk Johnson Radiator Repair California is a little far to send that lovely old radiator my man. But thanks.
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Apr 29, 2022 10:56
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General_Failure posted:I'm going to go eat my words. Hwut in the god drat gently caress 
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Apr 29, 2022 14:13
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Changing my own oil and draining fuel filters for the first time in 20 years. Thank God for YouTube videos. Everything went fine until I inspected the drain plug and noticed the absence of a washer. Got a washer on order for next day, but my truck rear end was hanging out of the garage. I kept telling myself over and over not to start the truck, just put it in run to get it into neutral so I can push it into the garage. Well, I pressed the brake and hit the button and ran it for 1-2 seconds with no oil. gently caress me. Then I went to YouTube and found out how to pull a panel for the neutral cable disconnect. Someone in a goon discord suggested that I install a fumoto valve, so I'm ordered one and doing that tomorrow. And thus continues me trying to do my own maintenance.
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May 9, 2022 05:00
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1-2 seconds without oil is probably fine. It does at least that long every time the oil filter drains out.
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May 9, 2022 06:10
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Changing my own oil and draining fuel filters for the first time in 20 years. Thank God for YouTube videos. If late 90s oil commercials are to be believed, you should be fine. Hell, I ran a riding lawnmower at full throttle for probably a minute with no oil before the first connecting rod exploded, so you're probably ok if you don't make a habit of it. My experience with Jeeps is that the drain plugs don't have washers because they have a rubber ring or something built in? I got so spoiled by it that I bought a fumoto valve for the first car I owned that needed a crush washer.
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May 9, 2022 06:12
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Thanks for the support. I figured with the rotella there's a thin film still there, so I didn't do too much damage. Pretty sure there should be a washer there since there's a recessed area for one. See here down the page, I'm missing the red washer that others show in their YT vids. https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/ecodiesel-oil-change-guide.html Hopefully the fumoto valve will fit fine inside of the undercarriage plate that covers the oil pan. I ordered the lowest profile one.
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May 9, 2022 06:33
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Thanks for the support. I figured with the rotella there's a thin film still there, so I didn't do too much damage. Sounds like the red rubber washer is supposed to be part of the plug itself. Either way, if it isn't there it needs replacing and fumotos are nice anyway.
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May 9, 2022 07:01
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Fumoto install is a success. A couple of mm's of the valve housing stick out from the undercarriage armor, but it's in the reverse slope. Should be pretty protected for the most part as I'm only doing babby trails. Thanks for the moral support, I have almost zero mechanic knowledge and appreciate your inputs.
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May 12, 2022 06:27
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I did some babby trails last week, but it had dumped rain the day before so I had the lockers on in a few places for the mud. The most harrowing part is this 2mph bit. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zKa9z-S3Utc&list=PLV-hnGBGakSx5JaTgiHVS5sV4KIpIJZ24&index=5 (The soundtrack for this needs to be Morricone, Goodbye to Cheyenne, from Once Upon a Time in the West, but I have a real YouTube channel under a different account that I don't want them deleting for copyright violations so I didn't chance it.) It took 10 min to wash the mud off because it baked in the desert sun for a few days. Went around a few times just soaking and washing off a few more chunks. There are still a ton of pebbles wedged in the rear fenders. :/
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May 13, 2022 00:40
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Quick question: finally made my pilgrimage from Ohio to Moab with the JK. After a trail today my steering wheel was off by 20 degrees to the right. A tire shake test identified a loose track bar bolt but not other signs of damage. I adjusted the drag link to straighten the wheel to make the traction control happy. Any other things I should check? Edit: forum searches say this is normal. The front end did take more of a beating trying to get through Fins n Things in a couple hours. giundy fucked around with this message at 07:03 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 06:54
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So, new weird thing happening with the A/C. It seems to cycle okay when I start the car, but it'll stop cycling entirely when the engine gets up to operating temps. I have to let the car cool down before it'll start cycling A/C again. Any known causes for that? Pressures still seem fine.
DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jun 1, 2022 |
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Jun 1, 2022 01:13
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Pressure isn't too high to trip the high side shut off switch, right? It's not likely but that's kind of weird.
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Jun 1, 2022 02:19
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DizzyBum posted:So, new weird thing happening with the A/C. It seems to cycle okay when I start the car, but it'll stop cycling entirely when the engine gets up to operating temps. I have to let the car cool down before it'll start cycling A/C again. Any known causes for that? Pressures still seem fine.  Happens at all driving speeds? I've heard of a fan test where you use an external fan to blow more air in through the front of the radiator, but it might be enough to test while driving in cooler evening temperatures. Loose fan belt, coolant level, and AC clutch engagement are all culprits, and depending on the year it could be overheat sensors and such. Is the engine perhaps actually overheating and the fan isn't enough so it's drawing down power by shutting off the AC?
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Jun 1, 2022 03:38
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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:It's because you need to call it a "Jeep". Now that you mention it, I haven't tested it while driving recently. I'll see if airflow helps it. It was very hot out yesterday (over 90), and thinking about it now, I don't remember if the electric fan was turning on when the engine got up to operating temp... The serpentine belt seems fine, it's not loose. I actually replaced the radiator last fall and the coolant is new as of then. Might be worth doing a flush and fill soon since it's an older system and I want to keep it in good condition.
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Jun 1, 2022 17:56
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Okay, yeah, I'm pretty sure a million things happened at once. There's definitely a leak somewhere in the line in addition to a bad Schraeder valve in the low-side port (pressure is almost 0 after a day of sitting in the parking lot), and the clutch/compressor is starting to make sad noises now. Not gonna lie, this is almost 25 years old so I might just replace the entire A/C system. Front suspension has to come first though. The electric fan is working properly, at least! 
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Jun 2, 2022 17:23
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DizzyBum posted:Not gonna lie, this is almost 25 years old so I might just replace the entire A/C system. Front suspension has to come first though. Depending on how the compressor has failed (if at all), you might not really need to replace the condenser and evaporator - if neither of those are leaking and the compressor didn't poo poo a bunch of black death into them, there's not much to be gained by trading out old OEM parts for new lovely parts. But I will absolutely agree with proactively replacing every soft line in the system because there's a good chance that even if it doesn't leak now, the act of bending around 25 year old barrier hoses while replacing other parts will cause new leaks.
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Jun 2, 2022 17:33
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Just test drove a 2022 Jeep Wagoneer with the Premium Group package and really liked it. But haven't been able to find any with the 2nd Row seating package that includes Captain's chairs. Really liked how it drove and was comfortable, but with the Wagoneer L coming out, Im wondering if I should wait? Any idea when pricing will drop for that?
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Jun 7, 2022 19:19
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From the many, MANY ads I see for it on YouTube, it seems to start at 80k? No way I want one personally, but the McIntosh stereo is testing my resolve Vvvvvvvvv I think so… hope I’m not misleading but that’s what I remember. namlosh fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 15, 2022 |
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Jun 7, 2022 21:27
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namlosh posted:From the many, MANY ads I see for it on YouTube, it seems to start at 80k? Really? When I was even at the dealership he pulled up their system and still showed NA as well
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Jun 7, 2022 21:32
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My 2008 Jeep Liberty's fans started acting strangely when I turned the AC on the first time this summer. Air won't blow out of the the top front vents, the ones it normally uses when it's set to blow on your face. No matter which vent I set the dial to, it just uses some combination of the windshield vents and the foot vents with no apparent rhyme or reason. A couple days after this happened I also got the PO481 fault code (Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit). Anyone have an idea what could be going on and whether these issues are related?
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Jun 15, 2022 01:06
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This is completely unrelated I’m sure, but just in case: I recently had to replace the HVAC blower fan in my CRV. It took a while to narrow it down to the fan because it was causing all sorts of issues: Failure to move the blend door Failure to start the a/c compressor It was even messing with the radio it seems Replacing the fan ended all of those issues. Maybe your cooling fan is messing unrelated things up too
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Jun 15, 2022 01:32
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Brought home a Series 2 Wagoneer and man, this thing is freaking sweet. Tried to order a brand new one in Pearl White, but it looks like they discontinued the color already
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Jun 17, 2022 04:16
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If anyone has a Hemi and has been putting off replacing their 16(!) spark plugs, there is a pricing error on Amazon where a 4 pack of RE14MCC4 plugs costs the same as a single plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZH68RK I ordered 4 packs, got 16 plugs for $16.08 after tax, and then spent the next week trying to figure out which wire I'd knocked loose that was causing my Jeep to randomly die (turned out to be the ground wire that connects to the ECU).
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Jun 17, 2022 05:52
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