|
Finished another company of tiny robits. The 2nd Regulan Hussars this time.
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 03:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 01:18 |
|
|
This month has been productive so far:   This means, other than the Primaris Librarian that came with the Imperium Magazine, I am all caught up on the space marines so far. (following along with the instructions, these are still a Work In Progress. I could finish them but I figure I'll follow along with them for the fun of it) Besides that, I have two more primaris lieutennants I've picked up and omg all the gold... I also did some base coating of the necrons and maybe tomorrow if I have time, I'll get caught up on the necron aspect... and also drybrushed some basecoat onto about 10-13 scarabs... 
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 05:46
|
|
|
I've been using a badger patriot for years doing mostly zenithal priming and base coating, with a bit of camo type detailing on larger tanks and stuff. I'm looking to do more detail work like targeted highlighting on smaller gunpla, and wondering what airbrush would be good for fine work. I've heard good things about the Sotar but am not too attached to Bagder if there are other recommendations people have. Would the Sotar or Krome be good choices?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 09:14
|
|
|
I finished the Great Wall yellow army over the weekend for 1/4 of the Oath I did for May. There are a few places on some of them I might do a touch up or two but I’m happy with them for the constraints I placed (average of 15 minutes or less per miniature using mostly speedpaint).   I love and hate the speedpaint zealot yellow at the same time. If you spread it very thin, you get a perfect banana runts yellow but no shading. Thicker can get you too much orange. It’s pretty difficult to balance the color you want.  Next up, Green Army. Saltpowered fucked around with this message at 14:35 on May 8, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 14:29
|
|
|
Booyah- posted:I've been using a badger patriot for years doing mostly zenithal priming and base coating, with a bit of camo type detailing on larger tanks and stuff. I'm looking to do more detail work like targeted highlighting on smaller gunpla, and wondering what airbrush would be good for fine work. I've heard good things about the Sotar but am not too attached to Bagder if there are other recommendations people have. I have both a Sotr and a Krome. I never use the krome because its to big and heavy even with my monster hands. For fine detail at a reasonable price the Sotr is great. It regularly goes on sale on usairbrush and Amazon for under a hundo. If you want to go fancy everyone I know who has an H&S says its great.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 14:44
|
|
|
I decided to not add to the pile of shame and decided to get this instead.  I wanna see if it’ll help me increase my painting speed (at least for guard and standard models) and just make the process a little less complex. I was super super tempted to get the Battlezone Frontier set, but I’ve heard it will be coming in a Killzone set, and will be at a significant discount. I’ll be doing a test on these two models. 
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 21:17
|
|
|
Really enjoying reaper bones. Yeah they are rough, that way theres no pressure!
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 21:38 on May 8, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 21:35
|
|
|
So it seems for the speed paint to work it’s best to use matte white. Because holy hell does it not show up on chaos black. That’s on me though. I thought it was more a best to use. Luckily I mostly switched over to Matt white like colors. I also pick up one today. I just want to know is it okay to do another layer of primer (as opposed to stripping paint which I really don’t want to do)?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:06
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:So it seems for the speed paint to work it’s best to use matte white. Because holy hell does it not show up on chaos black. That’s on me though. I thought it was more a best to use. Luckily I mostly switched over to Matt white like colors. I also pick up one today. I just want to know is it okay to do another layer of primer (as opposed to stripping paint which I really don’t want to do)? Hit it with white as a zenithal, most contrast paints work well over that, and I'm told speed paints are mostly similar in that respect. You can easily just do a quick spray of white over the black, and as you are just going from a high angle and not ttying to get full coverage you are unlikely to clog up much detail.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:12
|
|
|
Another thing I learned it that it doesn't play well with a white ink zenithal. Granted, maybe it would if you varnish in-between, but even after a few days it reactivated the ink and smudged all over.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:16
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:So it seems for the speed paint to work it’s best to use matte white. Because holy hell does it not show up on chaos black. That’s on me though. I thought it was more a best to use. Luckily I mostly switched over to Matt white like colors. I also pick up one today. I just want to know is it okay to do another layer of primer (as opposed to stripping paint which I really don’t want to do)? I know you pretty much figured this out already, but Contrast and Speedpaints don't work on dark colors at all, they need to be applied over a very very light primer or basecoat (usually one that has a glossy or satin finish). Often that's white or a very light off-white or gray, though some people will basecoat with a lighter shade of the desired color and then paint the Contrast/Speedpaint color over it (like basecoating with orange and then painting Blood Angels Red Contrast paint over that, for example). This is because those particular paints are designed to flow off of raised edges (while still tinting them slightly) into folds and crevices, giving the highlight, basecoat and shade all in one go. That's why they don't work on dark colors, because there's no lighter tone for them to create the highlight, and you generally can't basecoat or shade if the underlying coat of paint is darker than the Contrast or Speedpaint you're using. As far as re-priming it goes, the only downside is you risk losing detail the more paint you apply. I personally would recommend just stripping it. Unless it's a resin figure, I'd just soak it in some rubbing alcohol for an hour or so and then brush it clean with an old toothbrush. If it is resin, don't bother soaking it, just scrub it with a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol until most of the paint is off and then wash with some warm soapy water and then rinse it.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:18
|
|
|
Basically you want your model to look finished, but in black and white, or black and blue, or whatever. The idea is value sketching of having the rough concept of the highlights done. That's why people zenithal prime before using contrast as it's super duper easy to get results. If you're lazy like me and don't have an airbrush you can just drybrush white instead.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:25
|
|
|
Went to my friends place for a pro level photo shoot. I think he had a little too much fun with scenes and lighting. He got some sick shots and is going to process them in Photoshop a little bit then send them back. Here's a teaser 
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:34
|
|
|
Thanks for all the feedback. I have to say after trying it on two light primed models…I’m pretty happy. Now it’s mostly figuring out what colors are close approximations to the citadel color I would use. Granted the paint on the bottle is pretty helpful. Follow up question. After a speed paint dries is it fine to use regular paints on and layers on top for detail areas. Also can you paint on top of a layer of speed paint with another one to clean up areas (similar to normal base coats) or is it one of those, you get one chance and that’s it?  Now I just applied this, but goddamn being able to speed paint heads slaps. Same with doing the hat. I just really like this set a lot. 
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 23:05 on May 8, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:41
|
|
|
You should seal before you speedpaint over other speedpaint. You can look at my post history and see an example where I didn’t do that and it reactivated a day later and literally stripped the paint. Speed Paint over speed paint will either blend or strip. I don’t know if that changes after 2-3 days. You can just wipe the paint off though. Either with your finger or a small brush or sponge, you can easily wipe the paint off some areas. If it’s dried to much to wipe, I’d recommend sealing, doing a very light coat of white on the touched up area, then painting again. There are some exceptions to this that you can play around with. I still find the wiping or seal + touch ups to be worlds faster for painting a large group than contrasts or any other paints.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 23:19
|
|
|
Dana Howl actually just posted a neat video on this where she's realised that if you thin the acrylic you want to use on top of the speedpaint using speedpaint medium instead of water it won't reactivate. It's specifically water that's causing them to reactivate so if you're used to thinning your paints with water either varnish first, put the paint on dry or thin it with speedpaint medium.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 00:00
|
|
|
Mercurius posted:Dana Howl actually just posted a neat video on this where she's realised that if you thin the acrylic you want to use on top of the speedpaint using speedpaint medium instead of water it won't reactivate. It's specifically water that's causing them to reactivate so if you're used to thinning your paints with water either varnish first, put the paint on dry or thin it with speedpaint medium. If you don't mind me not digging up the video to watch the whole thing right this second - does she use a wet palette for the acrylic paint or is she using a dry palette and adding the speedpaint medium that way? Basically I'm wondering if the wet palette would add a small amount of water and that amount be enough to be bad.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:If you don't mind me not digging up the video to watch the whole thing right this second - does she use a wet palette for the acrylic paint or is she using a dry palette and adding the speedpaint medium that way? Basically I'm wondering if the wet palette would add a small amount of water and that amount be enough to be bad. She uses a dry palette in that video
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 01:04
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:If you don't mind me not digging up the video to watch the whole thing right this second - does she use a wet palette for the acrylic paint or is she using a dry palette and adding the speedpaint medium that way? Basically I'm wondering if the wet palette would add a small amount of water and that amount be enough to be bad. I generally love using a wet palette but don’t recommend them for anything related to speed paint for a few reasons. One is the afore mentioned water activation. Another is that the speedpaint heavily separates and will drain through your paper onto the foam significantly faster than normal acrylic or even contrast. It adheres strongly to the foam and is very difficult to wash out. It also rapidly dries the foam out. If you are painting over the course of an hour and then throwing away your paper, mostly fine. Do not leave speedpaint on the paper and shut the palette. I learned this the hard way and one of my palettes has foam that got saturated quickly. You can use speed paint with a wet palette if you have it significantly drier than you would for acrylics and change the paper regularly (or don’t care about the life of that foam.)
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 01:21
|
|
|
Mercurius posted:Dana Howl actually just posted a neat video on this where she's realised that if you thin the acrylic you want to use on top of the speedpaint using speedpaint medium instead of water it won't reactivate. It's specifically water that's causing them to reactivate so if you're used to thinning your paints with water either varnish first, put the paint on dry or thin it with speedpaint medium. Ah I was wondering about that. Duncan has me trained to always use water to thin. lol That is actually good to know as it allows me to have some more freedom for touchups. https://youtu.be/5LOAZkf2b1s This link is actually quite useful as it to someone speed painting in parts and not just the whole. It’s probably why I was so confused with the concept of speed painting at first is it look like it didn’t require a lot of detail or highlighting. I knew that wouldn’t be the case, but I wasn’t sure how the process entirely goes when doing it in parts.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 01:24
|
|
|
Painted up my first space elf and I'm still not sure of the colour scheme I sorta just picked some colours and went Go I'm pretty happy I got such vibrant colours out of earth tones (Red Oxide and Yellow Oxide) but I'm kinda iffy on the basing. I might need to brighten up the forest floor with a lighter brown or throw in some green I think? I'm not sure.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 03:43
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I have both a Sotr and a Krome. I never use the krome because its to big and heavy even with my monster hands. Awesome, thank you!
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 05:35
|
|
|
I just picked up an Ork army and this is my first stab at painting miniatures. Any advice/criticism would be appreciated.        
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 05:50
|
|
|
That's an awesome first batch of Orks there. First step to me that stands out is uneven/thick paint areas. Are you using a wet palette and adding a bit of water to thin if needed (some paints are thicker than others, and some wet palette paper transfers more water to the paint faster than others)? Yellow is a really hard paint to get even coverage with but "two thin coats" is a good moniker and rule of thumb for most of the colors you'd be using. For yellow you'll need more coats.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 06:06
|
|
|
I have no idea what im doing and probably not drying the brush out enough between colour swaps. I also dont want to make the paint too thick so im not doing many layers and that also might be a problem.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 06:11
|
|
|
My Spirit Otter posted:I have no idea what im doing and probably not drying the brush out enough between colour swaps. Here is an article on making your own (I did this and then later I bought one) - https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-how-to-make-a-simple-wet-palette/ I personally like 2 water cups to rinse my brush (one dirty and one less dirty) but most people do one cup, and then I just do a press and roll manuever on my folded paper towel to dry the brush before returning to the palette for more paint. I think the problem is that your paint is actually too thick already (in spots), so it may be a bit counter intuitive but instead of doing your current setup, thin the paint more than your currently do and take MORE layers to paint to achieve even coverage with an even opacity and because you thinned it it won't be too thick 
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 06:27
|
|
|
Well i have about a hundred thousand more of these assholes to paint so i will definitely give that a go. Which of the paints look too thick?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 06:39
|
|
|
My Spirit Otter posted:Well i have about a hundred thousand more of these assholes to paint so i will definitely give that a go.  Uneven cream and light blue colors.  In the light blue you can see those brushstrokes, perhaps not too thick but uneven coverage which more and thinner coats will help a lot with. Metallics are frequently troublesome, the darker metallic has some thickness going on there and the more silver color, and I actually should have circled the next panel over, has uneven coverage (which more and thinner coats will help with). edit: oh and the cream color on the bottom screen grab, wasn't sure if that was a stylistic choice or if that was uneven coverage in that area
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 06:48
|
|
|
As a novice, I can attest that not properly thinning paints is a huge early hurdle. Once you get a feel for how thin the coats really should be the model detail remains much clearer.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 07:59
|
|
|
And if you're worried about the "flowingness" of thinned paint, remember to wick excess paint off the brush before applying it to the model. This was more of a gamechanger to newbie me than simply "thin your paints".
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 11:49
|
|
|
Starting from a wet brush can help a lot, too. Dry bristles suck up moisture, but if you wet them and wipe away the excess moisture until they're just slightly damp, more of the paint will flow off the brush and onto the mini where you want it.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 12:10
|
|
|
Hi thread, old 40k player (2nd through..4th?) looking to get into some kill team. I was never a good painter but maybe with YouTube and a more mature temperament I'll improve this time. But I did want to ask something since my time is so much more limited these days: What's the fewest number of minis I can paint in a setting and still allow enough time for it to dry? I'm hoping to set a not overly ambitious weekend painting goal I can stick to, I was thinking three? Or is it going to need to be more like five?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 14:41
|
|
|
Do you have a hairdryer?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 14:46
|
|
|
Hmn, I do, but depending on how long I spend blow drying my figurines I could probably just have painted another model or two? Eh, I don't want to over think it much, I just want to have a small but steady weekly painted output that hopefully, combined with some discipline about only buying one box a month maximum, means I'll actually, for real, paint as fast as I buy.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 14:54
|
|
|
Base coat > shade > wash > highlight takes a few minutes if you're not going for too much detail. Using an airbrush to zenithal prime and apply a basecoat glaze makes this a lot faster. It's really up to you how intense you want to get with the details.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:04
|
|
|
Is the start up cost for air brushing something like a couple hundred bucks and aren't aerosols bad for cats? I've always dismissed it as too much for me, but now I see that's also contradictory to my "compared to when I was a teenager I now have money but not time" guiding principle. I want to save time but I also don't want to over commit to a new hobby. I was going to spray prime outside? Edit: you know, I'm actually sure don't want to use air brushing. I don't mean anything against it but I really want to work with a brush, it's an emotional decision but I'm sure that's how I feel. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 15:31 on May 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:29
|
|
|
If I was going for max speed without an airbrush, I'd probably prime black, drybrush white as a zenithal coat, then go nuts with Contrast or Speedpaints.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:42
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:Is the start up cost for air brushing something like a couple hundred bucks and aren't aerosols bad for cats? I've always dismissed it as too much for me, but now I see that's also contradictory to my "compared to when I was a teenager I now have money but not time" guiding principle. I want to save time but I also don't want to over commit to a new hobby. I was going to spray prime outside? I wouldn't recommend airbrushing to someone just starting in the hobby, the up front cost as well as the space and learning curve is a lot of commitment when you're just starting out. That said, even if 100% brush painting is your thing, having a basic airbrush is still super useful for priming and basecoating, and has a very good saving time vs saving money trade off.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:55
|
|
|
Contrast paints can do a crazy amount for the time invested in using them. If your goal is tabletop quality at lightning fast speed, try them out for sure.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 01:18 |
|
|
Oh, maybe I accidentally misrepresented what I'm going for; I intended to paint using Apathetic Fish's videos on YouTube and just stopping at his table top standard. Seems very traditional to Warhammer painting; like spray an Ultramarine blue, hit his black areas with black, line the armor segments with an ink, a few other flat colors like that, then a handful of washes. So, I'm not trying for some sort of maximum speed strategy. Edit: I was just speculating about how small of a batch I could paint in a conventional way before it's so small that drying is an issue, because I'm probably not going to sit down to spend a Whole Day painting (ruining) twenty or more models like I did when I was a teenager. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 16:00 on May 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:58
|
|