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PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!

STR posted:

Subaru used to love using an o-ring on the inlet line that cracks over time, makes it noisy as all hell. It's inside the hose IIRC?



New and old. The new one has a metal suction tube instead of plastic, and I definitely feel the occasional light "catch" while spinning it. Guess my old leaky pump is going back in until the new one gets here. At least it's a relatively easy swap.

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Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Getting my car back from the shop is what I’m doing today. :unsmith:

They’ll drop it off by early afternoon.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Figured out why my amp suddenly started turning off after running a bit last week. I was able to reach the wiring on the amp and wiggle something a bit and get it back on, but the wire was hot. Unfortunately the wire is back there:

So I had to wait until time, weather, and my givashits allowed me to pull the seat back to get to the screw holding the sub in place so I could turn it around to look at it.


Well, looks OK, but if we go around a little further...

Huh. Loosened the screw:


Yeah, it's not even in the clamp. Folks, it's been that way for at least a couple years, held in by just the tightness of the spade on the screw. I guess it finally vibrated loose from me cranking the thing.

Fixed:


Of course, now I need to track down the rattle in the right front speaker - I've probably beaten it into submission. It's just a 5-1/4" component set I originally bought for my Cherokee however many years ago. I did find the rattle/buzz in my subwoofer:


Ordered some speaker glue (heavy duty black rubber cement) to fix that.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Full Collapse posted:

Getting my car back from the shop is what I’m doing today. :unsmith:

They’ll drop it off by early afternoon.

It still drives the same. :unsmith:

Some panel gap with the new hood, but I’ll deal with it.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002



Another Hakone Bro I met while mine was in the shop.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Darchangel posted:

Figured out why my amp suddenly started turning off after running a bit last week. I was able to reach the wiring on the amp and wiggle something a bit and get it back on, but the wire was hot. Unfortunately the wire is back there:


Big oof on the screw. Wish my enclosure fit up there though.

My left front speaker likes to cut out at random. Cranking the volume up brings it back, so I'm hoping it's just a loose connection somewhere. These were open box from Crutchfield, which I've never had a problem with before.. I don't want to deal with ripping them out and warrantying them :sigh:

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Full Collapse posted:



Another Hakone Bro I met while mine was in the shop.

I absolutely love that color on that car.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

AFewBricksShy posted:

I absolutely love that color on that car.

Agreed, I really hoped to find one but it was not to be :( Real nice

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Big oof on the screw. Wish my enclosure fit up there though.

My left front speaker likes to cut out at random. Cranking the volume up brings it back, so I'm hoping it's just a loose connection somewhere. These were open box from Crutchfield, which I've never had a problem with before.. I don't want to deal with ripping them out and warrantying them :sigh:

Mine's custom built (by me) to fit there. :D
My front left tweeter liked to cut out, which like yours would come back with a little more volume, but I'm not sure if it was the old radio or what. I don't think it's done it since I installed the new head unit. I may have just fixed an RCA connection or something when installing the new one.


Only other thing I've done this week:

Darchangel posted:

New gas cap for the Crown Vic. Exciting, I know!
The old one appeared to be an aftermarket, since it had no provision for the retaining strap that was still on the car, and no longer "clicked", so I had to tighten by feel. Sort of like the whole "torque until it's loose, then back off a 1/4 turn." Turned out the OEM Motorcraft part was all of $15 from Rock Auto, so I bought one.



Dangly retained not retaining:


New and shiny, and now I don't have to set the cap on the trunk lid:


Simple thing, but a quality of life improvement. I was concerned I wouldn't get the cap on well enough and trigger the dang CEL.

CaptainTofu
Jun 1, 2021

I got a new exhaust on my Crown today and I'm excited about it and want to share it with folks.

I'd rate it at about 2.5-3 horsemen of the apocalypse noise wise, when I was aiming for maybe 2, but it looks cool.



(has sound)
https://i.imgur.com/CGUA3q0.mp4

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Another day another oh poo poo oh poo poo it is a month until I am supposed to drive this thing 4000 miles and is in pieces!

I really need to stop slipping into “since the engine is out I should do X” since it added replacing the AC evaporator, accumulator and condenser to the list. Don’t recommend it since the air box is made of cheese and the factory just smothered it in sealer since it is not air tight in of itself. No one has the oem condenser so got a modern universal parallel row one which will be attached to the back of the radiator using those zip tie things you get with electric fans. Trying to make brackets to bolt it into the original holes would make it stand too far off the radiator.

Replaced the front brake lines again since the ones I made before ended up with some kinks and didn’t want to risk it for a long trip and with the new line flaring tool I had some decent flares rather than than the crappy ones from the cheap tool.

With the engine out took a look at the engine mount plates and make sure they were in place and tight after trying to mess with them with the engine in being a pain.

Final thing today was going through the original wiring harness that has a bunch of redundant wires now for the alternator and idiot switches that have been replaced with real sensors. Removed the gear speedo drive cable since I am going to be using GPS speedo.

Getting up to 100 degrees here now so going to call it a day and tomorrow drop the engine in and try to get the transmission bolted up to it. If I am feeling frisky might wire everything up and run it on the carb for a bit. Cannot run it on the sniper until I put the new EFI tank in.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Todays lesson is putting an engine in while the transmission is in place is a pain and it is better to either pull them together and put them back in together or remove the trans when you drop the engine in. Ran out of time today before it got to hot but the engine is in the C10 but I need to mess with getting the transmission lines up on the dowels and bolt that together.

Absorbs Smaller Goons
Mar 16, 2006
Today I had to unfuck the PO/lube shop that stripped the hell out of the oil pan drain plug threads on my E90.

Drill, tap, helicoil, flush with engine oil, clean as much debris as I could, reinstall drain plug. Oh yeah I did it with the pan on the car cause taking it off is a 10 hour ordeal with the dropping of the subframe and other fun assorted bits.
It now has very solid threads to hang on and doesnt leak. Mission accomplished.

Next up, I've got a sport interior coming in to swap the front seats to their sport counterpart with side bolsters and power lumbar.
Keeping them manually operated and even found a set with heated front seats to keep that hot butt action going.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Helped my cousin. Old engine came out, new went in. Got the transmission bolted back up, and it's ready to start bolting stuff back on. Need an install tool for his ATI harmonic balancer. Then we just have to do the downpipe and turbo mount. I think we're either gonna have to modify the hood or he'll need a taller hood.



Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i was gonna say, usually even the truck manifolds fit under the stock hood, then scrolled down... :newlol:

you guys work real fast, and that car is clean as hell!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





What kind of coward doesn't spring for the Sky Ram?

That thing looks awesome.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

IOwnCalculus posted:

What kind of coward doesn't spring for the Sky Ram?

That thing looks awesome.

I told him to go with the 2000HP intercooler to make it taller, he didn't agree. His office is next to Aerodine, I think him he should have had them make a carbon hat for it. I'm still THIS close to talking him into making our own carbon fiber hood for it. I've been watching far too much youtube lately.

queef anxiety
Mar 4, 2009

yeah
years later and the EA888 platform still suprises me. only mods are a CAI and bigger turbo inlet.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I swapped the summer wheels/tires on to our dailies last week. Not three days later when driving home late at night I hit a new-since-Friday pot hole - bending not one, but both passenger side wheels. Thankfully it's a minor bend on both and the wheel shop I've used for wheels is only charging $100/wheel to straighten them - but drat it. Our roads are finally going to poo poo and catching up with the rest of the area/state/nation.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Thicc sidewalls always.

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.
Fallen Rib
On Sunday I deliberately ran the fuel tank dry on the ute.

The 2004 Holden Rodeo we bought a little while ago has, according to everything I can find, a 76L fuel tank. If I fill it when the gauge says E and the light comes one, I can fit about 45 to 50L in before the pump automatic cutoff stops taking orders from my hand. So, there's presumably about 25 or 30L still in there when the gauge starts telling me I need to fill up. Exactly how much is still in there was a question I wanted to answer, so when the light came on last week my wife made a note of the odometer and we guestimated another ~150km should be possible and we filled up our new jerry can and strapped into the bed. Sunday afternoon I had a couple of errands to run then I only got to the edge of town before it sputtered and died.

Refuelling with the jerry can was a miserable experience. I had stupidly assumed it would be easy to get all 20L into the ute from wherever I was when it ran dry and I could simply drive to the nearest petrol station before coming home. I had planned a lovely drive through the countryside, on small roads with little traffic where pulling over shouldn't be a big problem, and always within about 60km of a station.

I think I spilled about 5L on the grass, and left maybe 5L in the jerry can by the time I decided I would just drive the ~5km to a station and then go home. The ute has a tray back, and this sticks out to the side quite far over the fuel filler, and there are tie-on bars that only partly get out of the way over the fuel filler. The nozzle on the jerry can was too short, and I could only raise the can up far enough to get maybe 3/4 of the fuel in there down the nozzle and into the ute. The spring-loaded flap inside the fuel filler neck doesn't open from the weight of petrol pooled in front of it, and shoving the tip of the nozzle into it only worked if I kept the jerry can perfectly still; tilting it to change the flow rate invariably popped the tip out and spilled fuel everywhere. Then, injury to insult, the nozzle ripped out of the jerry can and I spilled a litre or two directly onto my leg. After that, I found a twig and jammed the flap open and managed to pour in a bit more.

After I refuelled at the station, and before I went home and got undressed directly into the washing machine (most of the fuel had evaporated so I wasn't putting more than a trace of petrol into the washing machine, but I smelled terrible), I stopped at an autoparts store and bought a long funnel. Once we burn a few litres in the ute I'll try to get the last bit out of the jerry can and into the ute.

I only made it 138km past the light coming on. I think we're not fully filling the tank at the station, and that the tight angle that is the only way to get the nozzle in there means the cut-off senses back pressure when the tank is merely mostly full.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Its time.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


ExecuDork posted:

On Sunday I deliberately ran the fuel tank dry on the ute.

The 2004 Holden Rodeo we bought a little while ago has, according to everything I can find, a 76L fuel tank. If I fill it when the gauge says E and the light comes one, I can fit about 45 to 50L in before the pump automatic cutoff stops taking orders from my hand. So, there's presumably about 25 or 30L still in there when the gauge starts telling me I need to fill up. Exactly how much is still in there was a question I wanted to answer, so when the light came on last week my wife made a note of the odometer and we guestimated another ~150km should be possible and we filled up our new jerry can and strapped into the bed. Sunday afternoon I had a couple of errands to run then I only got to the edge of town before it sputtered and died.

Refuelling with the jerry can was a miserable experience. I had stupidly assumed it would be easy to get all 20L into the ute from wherever I was when it ran dry and I could simply drive to the nearest petrol station before coming home. I had planned a lovely drive through the countryside, on small roads with little traffic where pulling over shouldn't be a big problem, and always within about 60km of a station.

I think I spilled about 5L on the grass, and left maybe 5L in the jerry can by the time I decided I would just drive the ~5km to a station and then go home. The ute has a tray back, and this sticks out to the side quite far over the fuel filler, and there are tie-on bars that only partly get out of the way over the fuel filler. The nozzle on the jerry can was too short, and I could only raise the can up far enough to get maybe 3/4 of the fuel in there down the nozzle and into the ute. The spring-loaded flap inside the fuel filler neck doesn't open from the weight of petrol pooled in front of it, and shoving the tip of the nozzle into it only worked if I kept the jerry can perfectly still; tilting it to change the flow rate invariably popped the tip out and spilled fuel everywhere. Then, injury to insult, the nozzle ripped out of the jerry can and I spilled a litre or two directly onto my leg. After that, I found a twig and jammed the flap open and managed to pour in a bit more.

After I refuelled at the station, and before I went home and got undressed directly into the washing machine (most of the fuel had evaporated so I wasn't putting more than a trace of petrol into the washing machine, but I smelled terrible), I stopped at an autoparts store and bought a long funnel. Once we burn a few litres in the ute I'll try to get the last bit out of the jerry can and into the ute.

I only made it 138km past the light coming on. I think we're not fully filling the tank at the station, and that the tight angle that is the only way to get the nozzle in there means the cut-off senses back pressure when the tank is merely mostly full.

A lot of jerry cans are really only suitable for lawn equipment without upgrading the spout, *especially* the :airquote:SAFETY:airquote: cans that make you spill more that would have evaporated or spilled out of the old school open spout. I had a not dissimilar experience when I somehow ran out of fuel not 2 or 3 miles from my parents house on Mother's Day. First time I've done that in a long time. Dad brought a 5 gal can with a *long* enough spout to fuel a car, but it was actually just a little bit too large to fit in the opening with the flapper. Had to sort of cram it in there to get the thing to open. I only needed a gallon or two, though - I was literally across the street from a gas station, but it was a divided road, so I couldn't just coast across. If my parent's place hadn't been right down the road I would have just bought a 1 gallon can, but I wanted to avoid that since I already have like 3.
What you need is one of these fellows:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084BTSMY8?th=1

Nice long flexi hose that should be the right size to fit in the filler neck. Also available in a bunch of other colors, and you can get little clip on "benders" to help if the hose is too floppy:https://www.amazon.com/Bender-Racing-Tanks-Utility-Containers/dp/B07XDDH7HD

Or even valved spouts!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N6YTF8C

Should be available where you are. Those racing fuel jugs seem to be pretty universal.

edit: what I did last weekend:

Darchangel posted:

So I wanted to do a thing on my Crown Vic's overhead console.


BTW, apparently that divot and slot is for holding cards or papers handy:

That slot is separated from the interior compartment. Definitely intentional.

Anyway, what I wanted to do:
The compartment is largely hard plastic. There is a foam layer at the very end, at the point that would be the bottom with the compartment open, wrapping to what would be the upper side when it's closed:



None of that helps when the door is closed - the bottom at that point is hard plastic. I keep sunglasses up there, and I want 1) no rattles, and 2) no scuffs, etc. on the lenses. Handily, I have some arts and crafts materials handy from a previous project:

Sticky-back foam and sticky-back felt, in black. Perfect.

Standard methodology. Template:


Cutout is for the latch mechanism that sticks up.

Test fit, and additional cutouts for protruding/moving parts.



I doubled up the foam to get it to the height of the latch mechanism:


Then covered it with the felt:


A piece felt side "down" to keep the sticky-back from being against the sliding part of the latch.


Boom!


Nice and smooth in the latch area.


Bonus is that the door sounds more "solid", just like when you deaden a car door! Less squeaky/rattle-y.
A nice simple project for after I wiped myself out mowing and trimming the lawn on Saturday.

Ambitious, I know, but I was tired yet still wanted to get something done.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


What the hell? Your post just cost me $19!

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

ExecuDork posted:

On Sunday I deliberately ran the fuel tank dry on the ute.

The 2004 Holden Rodeo…

Intentionally running a GM fuel pump dry is a lot like playing Russian roulette, in my experience.

Also, lol at fuel cans. Fuel cans loving suck.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Motronic posted:

What the hell? Your post just cost me $19!

Hey, man, I didn't have a gun to your head.
(You're welcome.)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Darchangel posted:

Hey, man, I didn't have a gun to your head.
(You're welcome.)

Seriously, those look great. And since it comes with a spare valve I can make this work for both of my lawnmower/generator cans which are a super big pain in the rear end to not spill when they're full. This looks like the right solution.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

Its time.



I'm excited for this.

Krakox
Oct 9, 2012
my dumbass put the battery in backwards :negative: . nows a fine time to learn about fusible link replacement!!

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Engine in, transmission bolted in and wired up the starter. Did some tinkering to try and understand why the PO ran a separate cable from the battery to the starter. I expected the OEM harness for a 6 banger didn’t have the juice to run a SBC and yep it could turn it but really slow and got really hot. So ran the cable from the battery to the starter, interestingly this is how Pontiac did it anyway, and it turns over now.

This weekend I need to clean up the wiring and get things tucked away, put the headers on, plug wires, dip stick back in, drop the old tank for the new EFI one, wire the fuel pump and install the sniper EFI and it should start.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Krakox posted:

my dumbass put the battery in backwards :negative: . nows a fine time to learn about fusible link replacement!!

Happened to me in a 1980 Fiat once before, and the fusible link was the alternator.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
My dad did that to our 89 Plymouth voyager once and, uh, it was the ECU, alternator, fuel pump, and distributor, as I recall.

I'll cross my fingers for you. It usually ends poorly.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean, ages ago, my neighbor did that on a 98 Escort. The only things that got fried were the radio and some fuses. Even the alternator survived!

Took a flat to Discount Tire to get it (hopefully) repaired. Phone ringing 10 minutes after drop off is never a good sign. Turns out it's unrepairable - hole in the sidewall.

Employee rolled it back out to me, asked if I wanted to get a quote on new tires. "Nah... I'll air it up and do donuts for a bit, then I'll come back when it pops". His initial face was surprised pikachu, then I told him "I'm not gonna do that here, don't worry....". My spare is a full size, but a full size appropriate for my car - it does NOT match the ~2005 wheels/tires on the car (a 2007, which uses a totally different size).

Guess I need to find a field or something to burn off what's left of the rear tires. I did a pretty solid burnout in front of my apartment's leasing office when I got home (~1 minute), they didn't tell me they were going to block off access to my garage TODAY for repaving (it was supposed to be next week, for 12 hours - instead it looks like it's for several days, THANKS GREYSHIT).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:08 on May 12, 2022

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.
Fallen Rib

Darchangel posted:

Nice long flexi hose that should be the right size to fit in the filler neck. Also available in a bunch of other colors, and you can get little clip on "benders" to help if the hose is too floppy:https://www.amazon.com/Bender-Racing-Tanks-Utility-Containers/dp/B07XDDH7HD
Or even valved spouts!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N6YTF8C
Awesomeness. I will be spending some money today.

MrYenko posted:

Intentionally running a GM fuel pump dry is a lot like playing Russian roulette, in my experience.

The silver lining here (the truck still runs just fine, so I guess I hit an empty chamber in that revolver) is that the hardware that sends the signal to the fuel gauge - float, resister, bits to connect those - is integrated into the fuel pump so a replacement would eliminate one major possibility for why the fuel gauge is inaccurate.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

My dad did that to our 89 Plymouth voyager once and, uh, it was the ECU, alternator, fuel pump, and distributor, as I recall.

I bought a turbo third gen supra that had this done to it.
A pile of fusibles, alternator, and a ecu later it ran.
I was very loving fortunate it didn't blow the cam position sensor. (they were 6-700 bucks at the time and only getting harder to find)

Had a guy call the rover shop saying he did this very thing with a L322 rangie. It took out all 24 onboard computers and the $800 liquid cooled alternator.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
If there's a more British car phrase than "liquid cooled alternator" I haven't heard it

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Its German.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

cursedshitbox posted:

I bought a turbo third gen supra that had this done to it.
A pile of fusibles, alternator, and a ecu later it ran.
I was very loving fortunate it didn't blow the cam position sensor. (they were 6-700 bucks at the time and only getting harder to find)

Had a guy call the rover shop saying he did this very thing with a L322 rangie. It took out all 24 onboard computers and the $800 liquid cooled alternator.

Jeeeeeeeezus

And yeah, nothin more German engineering than putting water in the electron pump and electrons in the water pump.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!

spiritually British then

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!



VERY.

kastein posted:

Jeeeeeeeezus

And yeah, nothin more German engineering than putting water in the electron pump and electrons in the water pump.

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