Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Super No Vacancy posted:

I bought more fans

S'okay, dude. I've got 8 fans stuffed in to an M-ATX case at this point

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
more fans, more better

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

CoolCab posted:

more fans, more better

:hmmyes:






(I added a 9th, just for fun)

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
I think at a certain point you're just adding noise

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

EVGA 3060 Ti now at Newegg (on back-order) for the same $480 price it was up for on their own site. Hopefully we see more movement on midrange card prices there because it's been depressing these last few weeks. Newegg also added a ton of open box cards if you want to gamble on those, though newegg has a bad history with support on open box products (which they've promised to improve on, but who knows if they'll follow through on that)

Rinkles posted:

I think at a certain point you're just adding noise

don't spread this FUD

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:12 on May 11, 2022

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
Tangential, but after seeing it tested a number of times, I was surprised at how often adding a second fan to a single fan cpu cooler, doesn’t improve noise performance (noise level needed to achieve a specific CPU temperature) or doesn’t improve it by much. Even in dual towers. Probably less true at very high heat loads.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Rinkles posted:

Tangential, but after seeing it tested a number of times, I was surprised at how often adding a second fan to a single fan cpu cooler, doesn’t improve noise performance (noise level needed to achieve a specific CPU temperature) or doesn’t improve it by much. Even in dual towers. Probably less true at very high heat loads.

I wonder how much having the second fan be a reverse-spinning one helps. I know in theory that a second fan generally doesn't add to the pressure unless the two spin in opposite directions. I can't think of any dual-fan coolers bothering to do that aside from the Fuma 2 though.

Peachfart
Jan 21, 2017

Is there a recommendation on quiet but quality fans to add to a case?

Super No Vacancy
Jul 26, 2012

ive got two fans on the side of my case and one at the rear which are all exhaust should i do some intake on the bottom. ive got three to install and theres a filter thing on the bottom of the case so i presume that’s meant to be for intake?

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Peachfart posted:

Is there a recommendation on quiet but quality fans to add to a case?

Arctic P12 is generally recognized as the best value for case fans at about $10 a pop. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN...C82&sr=8-2&th=1

To help explain that string of letters and the billion different options: "PWM" means you have a finer control over the fan speed when plugged into a motherboard's 4-pin fan headers, "PST" is just arctic's way of saying it's daisy chainable with other fans, and "CO" means continuous operation, which means they're using a different bearing type (the original bearing could sometimes cause an audible hum in the middle of the RPM range).

Depending on the case you get, you may not need any extra fans, though.

Super No Vacancy posted:

ive got two fans on the side of my case and one at the rear which are all exhaust should i do some intake on the bottom. ive got three to install and theres a filter thing on the bottom of the case so i presume that’s meant to be for intake?

Looking at your post history, you got that prebuilt with an In Win case? Yeah, the intake fans go on the bottom I think. Blast the GPU directly with air. It's good for it. (no, really)

edit: the side fans being exhaust seems a bit weird to me though, tbh. it feels like they'd just exhaust air away from the CPU cooler. but if it works, it works, i guess

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Arctic P12 is generally recognized as the best value for case fans at about $10 a pop. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN...C82&sr=8-2&th=1

To help explain that string of letters and the billion different options: "PWM" means you have a finer control over the fan speed when plugged into a motherboard's 4-pin fan headers, "PST" is just arctic's way of saying it's daisy chainable with other fans, and "CO" means continuous operation, which means they're using a different bearing type (the original bearing could sometimes cause an audible hum in the middle of the RPM range).

Depending on the case you get, you may not need any extra fans, though.

Looking at your post history, you got that prebuilt with an In Win case? Yeah, the intake fans go on the bottom I think. Blast the GPU directly with air. It's good for it. (no, really)

edit: the side fans being exhaust seems a bit weird to me though, tbh. it feels like they'd just exhaust air away from the CPU cooler. but if it works, it works, i guess

Oh my god is that what I'm hearing?? I have 6 arctic 140mm fans on my rads and it's obnoxious in the middle there. I've been meaning to go adjust my curves so that it doesn't sit on that rpm.

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

I had some airflow issues in an older case along with some fans that were about to kick off. I put two additional Arctic fans blowing in (did a little bit of airflow routing with some cardboard, too, cheap 'n cheerful was the theme of that improvement overall) and replaced the two failing fans with Arctic fans blowing out - I went with the CO variants for the double ball bearing and they've been great. Very nice price:performance on those fans and they did the trick. They are not loud under higher load, which I appreciate. I think their non-ball-bearing model goes to a higher RPM but I don't necessarily think of that as a good thing, as pitch tends to increase a bit with RPM and I personally find lower pitched fan noise to be less troubling than higher pitched even if the level is overall similar - though it usually isn't, with the highest RPMs not just being higher pitched but also louder.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice

Peachfart posted:

Is there a recommendation on quiet but quality fans to add to a case?
I've had a combination of Be Quiet and Noctua fans in my PC for the last 5 years, and I've been very happy with them.

Phigs
Jan 23, 2019

CoolCab posted:

i would probably buy more cooler than that[...]

honestly you could go cheaper on the case[...]

those are relatively high end SSDs[...]

So I changed the heatsink to a Noctua NH-D15. It's more expensive but I have actually had heat problems with CPUs before now that you've brought up the possibility I want to be sure (plus FUMA 2 wasn't available). I changed to a 1TB seagate and a cheaper 2TB. The one listed is a Crucial P2, but I'll actually get a "Kingston NV1 2TB PCIe 3.0 NVMe M.2 2280 SSD" for the same price which is not on pcpartpicker. Hopefully those 2 choices are fine?

As for the case I'm fine with paying a bit more and I have a huge amount of space so as long as there's no internal space or airflow problems with it I'll stick with what I've got there.

Actually, considering availability and prices I might just go for a 3070. this one specifically https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/NhzFf7/asus-geforce-rtx-3070-8-gb-dual-oc-video-card-dual-rtx3070-o8g. That should just slot into the build I think given the power supply is 750w, right?

If everything checks out I'll pull the trigger on this:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700F 2.1 GHz 12-Core Processor ($469.00 @ BPC Technology)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($158.00 @ I-Tech)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z690-P WIFI D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($295.00 @ Umart)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($189.00 @ Austin Computers)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($165.00 @ BPC Technology)
Storage: Crucial P2 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($250.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($122.00 @ PCByte)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB GAMING X Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($11.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($11.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $1953.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-05-12 00:52 AEST+1000

Phigs fucked around with this message at 16:10 on May 11, 2022

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

That case fits 140mm case fans, I'd go with Arctic P14 instead of P12 for better airflow and quieter operation. I built in a similar Corsair case back in 2011 and it has the second best airflow of any of my builds in the last 15 years, by the way. And it was a prior design that didn't have as much intake room - I bet it'll be nice. You are right to think about cooling with higher end Alder Lake - I have my 12900K limited to 190W and it still can get up to 70-72ºC for brief moments when really crunching numbers in normal operation with a NH-D15 and a Phanteks Eclipse p500a RGB case, which is one of the higher airflow cases available right now. Typical operating temperatures are in the high 40s-low 50s, idles basically at ambient or a few degrees above, but when it hits something that it needs more watts for and boosts up it'll get warm. And that's undervolted, too, by the way - AND, in a case which has my old 2070 2-slot design from EVGA (that used to run in the mid 70s when working hard in my old case, to the high 70s if overvolted + power limit raised) running at like 65ºC under full load. These CPUs earn their reputation for running hot.

Agreed fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 11, 2022

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
oh yeah good point if you can fit 140mms in there it's a no brainer, they're more performant and quieter assuming the price difference isn't too bad. i think you can fit either 3x 120 or 2x 140 in the front and i wanna say the latter will be more performant, or close to it.

a Noctua NH-D15 is an institution and funny enough also uses 140mm fans for the same reason actually. here is a youtube of someone combining that cooler and case, sounds OK so long as you don't have tall ram? you might need to run one of the fans a little higher.

a 3070 is a non-trivial uplift on a 3060ti. ideal if you're pushing 1440p highish framerates, although that was a lot truer at launch than right now. i would anticipate that to be a little loud though (only under load) because that two fan cooling solution is imo a little under provisioned for a 3070? i mean not to a huge degree and if you're like me, i use headphones when gaming so i crank my gpu fans idgaf, but you're spending more to get it quiet in other places. gpus are still so fuckin expensive right now, it's tough.

i'm not familiar with that NVME but as kind of intermediary mass storage between it and the platter i'm sure it's fine. i use a SATA drive for basically the same thing.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
oh, your board supports PCIE gen 4 so your "nice" drive could technically be a little nicer, the 970 evo + only supports gen 3. very very marginal difference though to be honest, particularly since windows still can't really take advantage, and there will be a price premium for a gen 4 drive since the PS5 requires them for expansion and as such there's demand. up to you.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

That case fits either two 140s in the front or three 120s. So the 120s are fine, actually.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Rinkles posted:

I think at a certain point you're just adding noise

Screw you hippy, I do what I want!




Fan nine was too noisy and I had to take it out.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

That case fits either two 140s in the front or three 120s. So the 120s are fine, actually.

you get two fer free with the case and they're buying two, and eyeballing it i think it's like my corsair case so you get (for 120s) one slot in the back, two on the top and three on the front for six total, i can't tell if you can add more in on the bottom? so your choice is going to be either six 120s or potentially 3 120s and 2 140s. if they're only buying two additional fans i think i'd consider 140s.

Phigs
Jan 23, 2019

Yeah I'm headphones 24/7 and have plenty of ambient noise anyway so sound is not really a problem unless it's loud enough to bother people over voip.

The case takes 4 140mm or 6 120mm so I guess I can buy a 5pack of either and run the maximum with 1 left over. Which is better? Or the 2 140mm plus the 2 free ones I guess if that's good enough.

So the thing I'm seeing is that 3060 ti, 3070, and 3070 ti all fluctuate in availability and price within $200 of eachother. Can I just pull the trigger on whichever one happens to be at the best price point when I'm buying and have it work out?

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

That case fits either two 140s in the front or three 120s. So the 120s are fine, actually.

If you look at the mounting options in the front, the bottom 120mm is gonna be blowing largely into the PSU shroud:




I think he'd end up with at least as good of airflow and probably better in terms of being useful to the components from the two 140 mounting vs 3x 120s, unless also planning to mount to the shroud itself to try to recirculate that upward toward the GPU. My experience with the PSU shrouds on modern cases is cabling gets congested down there and one would generally get more direct air movement in the right places from two 140mms blowing unobstructed versus trying to make the most of the situation underneath the shroud.

Agreed fucked around with this message at 17:19 on May 11, 2022

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Phigs posted:

Yeah I'm headphones 24/7 and have plenty of ambient noise anyway so sound is not really a problem unless it's loud enough to bother people over voip.

The case takes 4 140mm or 6 120mm so I guess I can buy a 5pack of either and run the maximum with 1 left over. Which is better?

So the thing I'm seeing is that 3060 ti, 3070, and 3070 ti all fluctuate in availability and price within $200 of eachother. Can I just pull the trigger on whichever one happens to be at the best price point when I pull the trigger and have it work out?

it won't bother people on voip. i would say a 5 pack, that's what i did, but i am a more fans is more better type for sure. i also like having 120s spare, they don't last forever and i've had to replace one over the course of this devices life, the oldest but still.

yeah they're all pretty close performancewise imo. if you can get one cheaper than the other there's what i think between a 5-10% performance bump each step. not very significant.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice
Is this a good deal? Found a Gigabyte 6800XT with stock available near me for between $100 - $500 CAD lower than 3080s and most other 6800XTs. I'm debating whether or not to get it today or in the next few days, since it seems like GPU prices haven't budged much in Canada for a few weeks. I'm also wondering if this particular card is a dud leading to the lower prices, but skimming reviews makes it look like a good budget card amongst 6800XTs.Worth noting I'll be using it on a 1440 144hz ultrawide.

*edit* gently caress it, wound up buying it.

Sashimi fucked around with this message at 02:16 on May 12, 2022

mom and dad fight a lot
Sep 21, 2006
Probation
Can't post for 30 days!
I can't answer your question, but I'm considering the Gigabyte RX 6600 also on sale from the same store. I'm making a rare trip into the city, so it's probably the cheapest mid-range card available to me for a while. Hilariously, I'd be paring it with a Ryzen 2200G for at least a few months—maybe it won't make a big difference on a 1080p 75Hz monitor.

I thought I'd made a good call getting a B450 motherboard last fall—it was cheaper, and I still had a good CPU upgrade path. But with all these GPU's releasing with x8 lanes, I'm kinda wanting to upgrade both the CPU and mobo to PCIe gen 4. Edit: nah, it'll be fine

mom and dad fight a lot fucked around with this message at 19:08 on May 11, 2022

GotDonuts
Apr 28, 2008

Karbohydrate Kitteh

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Modern low-end AMD is better from a price to performance standpoint than modern low-end Nvidia, but AMD's cards paradoxically don't play nice with PCIe 3.0, so I would avoid them.

Also, you should try to find out what the card is that's currently in that system so we at least know what kind of improvement our potential suggestions would bring. Try downloading and running GPU-Z on it: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/

Ran CPUZ and GPUZ

It has an i7 10700k @ 3.8 Ghrz, with an NVME SSD, 32 Gig of DDR-4 (two sticks if that means anything).
Mobo is an ASUS - Prime Z490-P
The Video card I was looking to replace is an AMD R9 380

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
oh yeah, a replacement GPU makes a ton of sense so long as the PSU can support it. given the GPU in there it probably will. it will still take a little hunting but a 330-400 dollar 6600 or similar 3060 maaaybe 3060ti (probably more) will be in budget

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

edit: ^^^ these cards are actually less power-hungry than the R9 380, so there should be no concerns there. also, you're a bit off on the pricing, actually.

GotDonuts posted:

Ran CPUZ and GPUZ

It has an i7 10700k @ 3.8 Ghrz, with an NVME SSD, 32 Gig of DDR-4 (two sticks if that means anything).
Mobo is an ASUS - Prime Z490-P
The Video card I was looking to replace is an AMD R9 380

Great. That CPU isn't the newest obviously, but I doubt it's the direct cause of any of the stuttering, and it's good enough to support newer graphics cards without a problem. For the price range you've given, I'd maybe recommend something like this Radeon 6600 XT. It should be able to run just about everything at 1080p while maxing out your refresh rate.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 18:50 on May 13, 2022

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
yeah that's what I meant, with the GPU in there they're good. and dang yeah I completely forgot the xt existed tbh

Velius
Feb 27, 2001

Phigs posted:

So I changed the heatsink to a Noctua NH-D15. It's more expensive but I have actually had heat problems with CPUs before now that you've brought up the possibility I want to be sure (plus FUMA 2 wasn't available). I changed to a 1TB seagate and a cheaper 2TB. The one listed is a Crucial P2, but I'll actually get a "Kingston NV1 2TB PCIe 3.0 NVMe M.2 2280 SSD" for the same price which is not on pcpartpicker. Hopefully those 2 choices are fine?

As for the case I'm fine with paying a bit more and I have a huge amount of space so as long as there's no internal space or airflow problems with it I'll stick with what I've got there.

Actually, considering availability and prices I might just go for a 3070. this one specifically https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/NhzFf7/asus-geforce-rtx-3070-8-gb-dual-oc-video-card-dual-rtx3070-o8g. That should just slot into the build I think given the power supply is 750w, right?

If everything checks out I'll pull the trigger on this:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700F 2.1 GHz 12-Core Processor ($469.00 @ BPC Technology)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($158.00 @ I-Tech)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z690-P WIFI D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($295.00 @ Umart)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($189.00 @ Austin Computers)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($165.00 @ BPC Technology)
Storage: Crucial P2 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($250.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($122.00 @ PCByte)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB GAMING X Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.00 @ Amazon Australia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($11.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($11.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Total: $1953.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-05-12 00:52 AEST+1000

I'm totally clueless but actively looking at a new PC now, so I'm picking up on this - The 12700F doesn't overclock, which means you don't need that motherboard. People are recommending a 'B660' board instead I believe.

My question to the thread is related to this topic - I've just bought a 3080 12 GB to place in a new system, and I'm wondering if the 12700F vs 12700K is going to be a meaningful difference for most games? I'm somewhat concerned about heat load, because one place I might put it would be in an attic bedroom/office; the other option is a basement that seems to have water issues, so that's less ideal. Either way the duration of stay is less than a year, so it isn't THAT big a deal, but if the heat load is high enough to make room uninhabitable that might be rough.

lih
May 15, 2013

Just a friendly reminder of what it looks like.

We'll do punctuation later.

Phigs posted:

Yeah I'm headphones 24/7 and have plenty of ambient noise anyway so sound is not really a problem unless it's loud enough to bother people over voip.

The case takes 4 140mm or 6 120mm so I guess I can buy a 5pack of either and run the maximum with 1 left over. Which is better? Or the 2 140mm plus the 2 free ones I guess if that's good enough.

So the thing I'm seeing is that 3060 ti, 3070, and 3070 ti all fluctuate in availability and price within $200 of eachother. Can I just pull the trigger on whichever one happens to be at the best price point when I'm buying and have it work out?

if you're willing to wait a few weeks a 3060 Ti can be pre-ordered for $699 AUD at the moment which is close to the cheapest its ever been, though it's available readily elsewhere for $749

https://www.bpctech.com.au/product/08g-p5-3663-kl-evga-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-xc-gaming-8gb-lhr-video-card.html
https://evatech.com.au/product/7122/colorful-rtx-3060-ti-advanced-oc-8gb-lhr-150-off

otherwise cheapest a 3070 is available for is $899

https://www.pcbyte.com.au/p/galax-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-1-click-oc-8gb-lhr-video-card-37nsl6md2kch-298398
https://www.onlinecomputer.com.au/121631

cheapest a 3070 Ti is available for is $999 which does not seem like good value at all when the 3070 is available for $100 less

https://www.onlinecomputer.com.au/121817
https://www.pcbyte.com.au/p/pny-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-xlr8-revel-epic-x-rgb-lhr-video-card-vcg3070t8tfxppb-326973
https://www.pcbyte.com.au/p/galax-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-1-click-oc-lhr-8gb-video-card-37ism6md4coc-310936

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

Velius posted:

I'm totally clueless but actively looking at a new PC now, so I'm picking up on this - The 12700F doesn't overclock, which means you don't need that motherboard. People are recommending a 'B660' board instead I believe.
oh well spotted, i always confuse the F (no iGPU) with the K (unlocked)

quote:

My question to the thread is related to this topic - I've just bought a 3080 12 GB to place in a new system, and I'm wondering if the 12700F vs 12700K is going to be a meaningful difference for most games? I'm somewhat concerned about heat load, because one place I might put it would be in an attic bedroom/office; the other option is a basement that seems to have water issues, so that's less ideal. Either way the duration of stay is less than a year, so it isn't THAT big a deal, but if the heat load is high enough to make room uninhabitable that might be rough.

the 3080 alone is a 350w part, just like this is. i'd probably recommend undervolting rather than overclocking there tbh.

Velius
Feb 27, 2001

CoolCab posted:

oh well spotted, i always confuse the F (no iGPU) with the K (unlocked)

the 3080 alone is a 350w part, just like this is. i'd probably recommend undervolting rather than overclocking there tbh.

Right, I knew the 3080 would be a toaster, but figured the processor would add more on top. I haven't been to the place yet to assess how hot the upstairs gets, but it sounds like a basement office/mancave might be the better call. I guess in that case the rest of the question is whether I'm meaningfully getting more from the 12700k and if it's worth the upgrade if I'm not actively overclocking it myself, which I don't think I want to do [or is it easy/simple now?] I'm by a Microcenter so the price point is probably very similar right now...

Phigs
Jan 23, 2019

lih posted:

if you're willing to wait a few weeks a 3060 Ti can be pre-ordered for $699 AUD at the moment which is close to the cheapest its ever been, though it's available readily elsewhere for $749

https://www.bpctech.com.au/product/08g-p5-3663-kl-evga-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-xc-gaming-8gb-lhr-video-card.html

This looks awesome. Do you have any experience/knowledge about pre-ordering from this store? If it's a legit pre-order where I pay now and they definitely send it to me when they get it in on the 31st it would be perfect.



Looking into the motherboards I'm seeing the MSI PRO B660M-A as the recommended motherboard for my cpu. Does that seem like a good pick?

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Here's another MSI 3080 12GB for under $900. It's a bit more expensive than the last one (which was $810), but it's still not a bad deal compared to everything else currently available.

lih
May 15, 2013

Just a friendly reminder of what it looks like.

We'll do punctuation later.
it's not definite that they'll send you a card on the 31st, it would depend if they get enough stock, but you'd be able to get a full refund if they go "sorry we didn't get enough so you're in the queue"

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Here's another MSI 3080 12GB for under $900. It's a bit more expensive than the last one (which was $810), but it's still not a bad deal compared to everything else currently available.

It's also a little higher tier of a model. Three power connectors versus two on the Ventus (resulting in the Ventus drawing 350W, Gaming Z Trio drawing 390W), improved fans (4.0, double ball bearing versus the Ventus model's 3.0), higher clocks (ventus has 1740 MHz versus that one 1815, kind of significant difference there), and a bunch of RGB whereas the Ventus has none. Improved heat sink design too.

I would have wanted to get that one instead if I could have known, but it is what it is, "replacement only return policy" in full effect. At least I saved $60 :v: Maybe I'll get lucky and get a decent undervolter that can still hit some solid boost clocks and not sweat it.

Agreed fucked around with this message at 01:59 on May 12, 2022

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
you can push that additional minor overclock with basically every 3080 in existence, fyi, unless they're goofily OEM locked down or something. entirely safely too, +75 on the core nothing and as such those figures are pure marketing, you might get an extremely marginal binning advantage but that's it. when i was throwing an "eyeball gently caress it i don't feel like testing it so whatever will be stable is fine" on my 3070 i threw 105 on there totally mindlessly and it's been rock solid. and modern cards will totally happily boost over that stock too.

cooler is the big difference, power limit is the less big difference. better cooling leaves you with more thermal overhead to boost (but you can do this also with more aggressive fan curves), more power does the same. you can also futz with voltage a bit but that has a non-zero chance of doing any damage at all, the stuff i described is completely safe and usually not even against warranty (as if they could somehow tell either way) depending on your manufacturer.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Rinkles posted:

I think at a certain point you're just adding noise

Not if you cant tell the computer is on at idle. Set them to hang out at 600-700rpm.

Besides, fans have pretty lights :allears:

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Agreed posted:

It's also a little higher tier of a model. Three power connectors versus two on the Ventus (resulting in the Ventus drawing 350W, Gaming Z Trio drawing 390W), improved fans (4.0, double ball bearing versus the Ventus model's 3.0), higher clocks (ventus has 1740 MHz versus that one 1815, kind of significant difference there), and a bunch of RGB whereas the Ventus has none. Improved heat sink design too.

I would have wanted to get that one instead if I could have known, but it is what it is, "replacement only return policy" in full effect. At least I saved $60 :v: Maybe I'll get lucky and get a decent undervolter that can still hit some solid boost clocks and not sweat it.

The listed clock speeds are more estimates than anything else. The VF curve will often exceed what the stated boost clock is, but the GPU is expected to stay around that clock speed due to the card's power limit and cooler. At the end of the day though, any decent undervolt will equalize the performance between these cards since you'd be taking the power consumption below 350W anyway. Possibly below 300, even.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply