|
"8TB SSD from iWish"
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2022 14:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
Potato Salad posted:Out of curiosity, what's your use case? We try to tailor advice specific to what your data is, where it is located, what you want to do with it, and how much of it there is. Large files scattered around a bunch of drives, about 5TB atm. Not that I'll ever get around to them all, but still, a backup would be nice.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2022 16:13
|
|
|
Xander77 posted:I don't actually need an SSD per-se, just a voluminous storage device. Having done bi-weekly HDD backups going back to incremental/differential headaches with Acronis: Pay for a good backup service.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2022 16:43
|
|
|
external hard drives are a thing, too are these devices hooked up to the network?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2022 17:32
|
|
|
Rinkles posted:"8TB SSD from iWish" What cursed poo poo is this? That must run like trash.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2022 22:02
|
|
|
Correct
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2022 22:05
|
|
|
Canine Blues Arooo posted:What cursed poo poo is this? That must run like trash. It runs great! You just have to put the 4 fake 2TB USB sticks into a striped software raid in your OS. Then you can write fake zero-length filenames 4 times as fast!
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 00:29
|
|
|
I recently acquired an older system running some proprietary hardware on windows vista. Ideally I'd like to clone the spinning disk containing the OS and software onto a sata SSD for reliability, but I remember there being some pitfalls on copying a Vista and before install from a spinning disk to a SSD. Upgrading the OS or doing a clean install is sadly not in the cards for now. I remember there being some commands I could run (that used to be in the OP of this or the previous SSD thread) that would help with these pitfalls, but it is impossible to google for straight answers on windows questions anymore. Does anyone have any advice, or was all of that voodoo that I really don't have to worry about?
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 17:01
|
|
|
You might be thinking about partition alignment, but I'm not aware of it preventing things working rather than just affecting performance. Before you do anything you should clone the existing install so you have something to roll back to. Personally I'd just use Clonezilla to dump the HDD somewhere, restore it to an SSD, and see what happens. Put the HDD in if it doesn't work and keep trying.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 17:14
|
|
|
Thanks Ants posted:You might be thinking about partition alignment, but I'm not aware of it preventing things working rather than just affecting performance. Partition alignment can prevent things working if you're using something downright silly, like a SD card or a flash drive. It can still cause write amplification like this though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 17:26
|
|
|
I think Vista doesn't know what TRIM is. Wasn't that a thing?
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 17:33
|
|
|
Windows 7 barely knew, so Vita definitely doesn't. Back in the olden days the advice was to make sure partition alignment is good and to keep like 10% unformatted space to make up for the lack of TRIM (Macrium Reflect can do all this while cloning).
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 18:01
|
|
|
HKR posted:Does anyone have any advice, or was all of that voodoo that I really don't have to worry about? It's not exactly voodoo, but if this is not a performance critical application it doesn't matter *that* much. Everything will still work even if you do no special considerations. (Also using a modern tool like Macrium Reflect to do the drive clone will take care of pretty much everything for you.) Flipperwaldt posted:I think Vista doesn't know what TRIM is. Wasn't that a thing? SSDs still work without TRIM. How much this is a bad idea depends on how much data is being written to & erased from the SSD during use. HKR if your proprietary system that the PC attaches to is like a measurement or recording instrument that writes lots to the drive in operation, that's a thing to be aware of. You'd want a oversize drive with plenty of spare space; empty space offsets the problem of no TRIM. OTOH if this is like running a CNC machine or something that barely does anything with the HD, you can ignore it entirely.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2022 19:48
|
|
|
In TGC Opal / IEEE 1667's final insult to crypto implementations everywhere, I just found out that enabling it prevents you from doing a normal ATA Secure Erase. Time to go the long way 
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 15:57
|
|
|
If you're using hardware crypto, isn't generating a new key functionally the same as a secure erase?
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 16:10
|
|
|
Shumagorath posted:In TGC Opal / IEEE 1667's final insult to crypto implementations everywhere, I just found out that enabling it prevents you from doing a normal ATA Secure Erase. Time to go the long way What tool are you using to do try to do a secure erase? One of the steps for doing a secure erase using hdparm (ie the only really good method that isn't vendor-specific software) is to set a drive password, assuming you don't have one already. So drive encryption deff doesn't prevent that. (Also modern SSDs encrypt everything, all the time, even when you don't have a password turned on. They just don't secure the key.) If the BIOS has frozen the drive and that's preventing an erase, there's probably an option to either unfreeze or remove the password in the BIOS.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 16:46
|
|
|
repiv posted:If you're using hardware crypto, isn't generating a new key functionally the same as a secure erase? presuming they didn't gently caress up rolling their own crypto imo only use software drive encryption. the storage industry has embarrassed itself enough times to be absolutely, completely unreliable with respect to their implementation of security features Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 16:46
|
|
|
Potato Salad posted:presuming they didn't gently caress up rolling their own crypto well yeah, but if they don't trust the hardware crypto implementation to rotate keys correctly they shouldn't be using it in the first place
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 17:57
|
|
|
Eh, so has there been anything more recent than that one 2018 paper, which found vulnerabilities in some gen Crucial SSDs and it depends vulnerabilities in Samsung ones, all of which were 1st-3rd generation SSDs that haven't had any follow-up to later models? 'Cause like, in the realm of Mossad vs not-Mossad threats, only one of them was so embarrassingly bad that it would be vulnerable to the sophisticated but not-Mossad criminal. The rest start with hooking up the drive JTAG and mucking with the controller memory or manipulating raw flash. I dunno, I think a SED can still have a rational use case. But that case definitely starts with "I have a recent drive, and am ok with less guaranteed security than the gold standards of bitlocker / LUKS / veracrypt".
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2022 19:21
|
|
|
So I built my computer a while back and was very happy with my Samsung EVO 850 500 GB SSD, but in hindsight, I should gone for 1 tb. In my defense SSDs were a lot newer and more expensive back then. I'm thinking of installing a send 500 GB or 1 tb ssd. Are the Samsung ones still the recommended pick? Also, I've never run a system with two hard drives, let alone a partition. Is there anything special I need to be aware, or should it be as simple as: install the second hard drive, and you system will automatically recognize it (and you can start using it immediately)?
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 14:48
|
|
|
plug it in and your system should it in bios and see an unformatted partition in disk manager when you boot up. format it and you are away. if you are getting a 2.5 inch SSD (the little cassette shaped box) then you want one with a DRAM cache so you want an MX500 from crucial, a WD Digital Blue or maybe a SanDisk Plus, all solid, Samsung's are kind of poor value. if it's the other shape, m.2, then dram is less essential and an SN550 or 570 are fine.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 15:33
|
|
|
Im not sure were to put this but this seems an ok place. I built a 12th gen 12600K system, 16GB 3200, etc, etc. Asus B660 mobo. So I build system, burn in, deliver to customer. Next day, I get a call saying the system is in Recovery. You can exit recovery, boot normaly, get into windows, do things. As soon as you do a reboot, it will post as normal and the BLUE SCREEN crash followed by booting back into recovery and if you chose continue to Windows, it would work normally. After troubleshooting for near a week, new UEFI, firmware for the Samsung 870 Evo. Nothing seemed to work. Finally I noticed this poo poo called Intel VMD in the bios, which was enabled but not actually used. I just did a normal NVMe UEFI/GPT install. Turned VMD off and presto, no boot problems or boot crashes. Uncool to say the least.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 16:16
|
|
|
BigRoman posted:So I built my computer a while back and was very happy with my Samsung EVO 850 500 GB SSD, but in hindsight, I should gone for 1 tb. In my defense SSDs were a lot newer and more expensive back then. I'm thinking of installing a send 500 GB or 1 tb ssd. Are the Samsung ones still the recommended pick? Also, I've never run a system with two hard drives, let alone a partition. Is there anything special I need to be aware, or should it be as simple as: install the second hard drive, and you system will automatically recognize it (and you can start using it immediately)? Samsung is still good. But these days they are generally more expensive than other, just-as-good options. They build a great reputation with low prices + good product, then cashed in by raising prices. (At least, in the US. In EU Samsung is frequently competitive on price.) If you are looking at SATA drives, the recommendation for quite some time has been a Crucial MX500 or WD Blue, and now it looks like the Hynix Gold S31 is the same price as well. All 3 are good, all 3 are basically identical*, pick whichever is cheapest at your preferred store. *modern SATA SSDs easily max out the SATA interface, thus the lack of noticeable performance difference OTOH if your PC has a NVMe slot, you should probably look at NVMe drives. When you built your PC it was a practical choice to stick with SATA drives. But now a mid-range 1TB NVMe is pretty much the same ~$100 price as those drives I linked above. Good options right now: SK hynix Gold P31 WD Black 750SE
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 16:22
|
|
|
thanks for the help guys.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 16:26
|
|
|
NAND quality matters more than specs.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2022 22:26
|
|
|
The P31 is a top of the line Gen 3 drive and a great choice for laptops as it's more power efficient than other top of the line gen 3 drive competitors. Wish I could get one around my parts to stick in my GPD Win Max but they just don't sell them here and I don't want to risk using a mail forwarder on something that high priced + then have to worry about warranty stuff.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2022 02:10
|
|
|
Klyith posted:What tool are you using to do try to do a secure erase?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2022 22:26
|
|
|
Klyith posted:I dunno, I think a SED can still have a rational use case. But that case definitely starts with "I have a recent drive, and am ok with less guaranteed security than the gold standards of bitlocker / LUKS / veracrypt". I get what you're saying and I largely agree. I just don't see a large number of use cases for encryption that's slower (iirc even an rpi accelerates standard cryptographic calls now), less secure, and more finicky to control/administrate than the standard software solutions.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2022 22:39
|
|
|
Shumagorath posted:The last BIOS released for a Z170 motherboard to an 860 EVO in the M.2 slot. When that refused to do the job, I booted into WinRE to delete the partition table, make a new volume with 2-pass overwrite via /P:1, then delete the partition table again. This was after I cleared the TPM and BitLocker wouldn't unlock the volume with the correct PIN, so I'm confident my data isn't getting retrieved by whomever buys this PC. If you need to do it again (or anyone else reading this who wants to secure erase a drive), I recommend making a linux boot stick and using the linux tools. But if your drive was also encrypted with bitlocker then you're definitely good for nobody being able to recover it. Heck, I'd have said lmao and just done quick format & reinstall in that sitch. Potato Salad posted:I just don't see a large number of use cases for encryption that's slower (iirc even an rpi accelerates standard cryptographic calls now), less secure, and more finicky to control/administrate than the standard software solutions. Can't be slower -- the whole point of a self-encrypting drive is that it's encrypting all user data 100% of the time. Every bit you read and write goes through the controller's AES accelerator. Only difference between protected vs plaintext is whether you set a password to protect the key. So any additional layer of encryption can only slow things down. More finicky, eh, I'm gonna go with 6 of one & half a dozen the other. There's some upsides -- a SED is reliable and doesn't depend on some other part of the PC like the TPM holding your keys. OTOH administration for an organization is a total no-go compared to software. As long as SEDs are off on their own, not integrated into OS security like the original idea, they're at best ok for personal-use setups.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2022 01:45
|
|
|
Key management is seemingly all over the place. BitLocker would use the on-drive hardware if IEEE 1667 was enabled, but if you set a second factor some of that clearly lives in the TPM as I was unable to unlock the drive once I cleared mine. You also had to get Windows installed and set IEEE 1667 (and only that, not TGC Opal or ATA security, with only one choice forever) through Magician, then secure erase the drive to start using that mode. I doubt the hour it took me to do all that was regained over the machine's life in load time saved vs full software, even on a 6700K doing the AES. Maybe using software-only BitLocker on my laptop is what caused its SSD to die an early death just shy of its 7th birthday, but I don't think incompressibility / entropy has been an issue since the SandForce days...?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2022 03:50
|
|
|
Interesting that an activist investor is pushing wdc to spinoff or sell its flash division. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/elliott-offers-1-billion-help-124155636.html Similar to SK Hynix spinning off Solidgm with the Intel assets in some ways.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
Intel has a hoard of optane wafers in the back like that cheese block in the White House https://blocksandfiles.com/2022/05/02/intel-optane-chip-inventory/ quote:Intel has no 3D XPoint manufacturing capability, no plans to start XPoint manufacturing, and made no public commitment to develop third or fourth-generation XPoint media. SK hynix could possibly step into the breach.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2022 18:17
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Can't be slower -- the whole point of a self-encrypting drive is that it's encrypting all user data 100% of the time. Every bit you read and write goes through the controller's AES accelerator. Only difference between protected vs plaintext is whether you set a password to protect the key. So any additional layer of encryption can only slow things down. Modern SSDs use encryption just for wear leveling. quote:It is a beautiful utterly elegant hack used to save on wear on the disk. Scrambling/randomising data on MLC drives also improves reliabilty on smaller process sizes - see this paper and these two referenced patents (here and here, and encrypted data is essentially random (thanks to alex.forencich for digging that up in the comments). In a sense AES encryption works the same way as the LSFR used to randomise data on a non encrypted ssd, only faster, better and simpler.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2022 00:06
|
|
|
Shrimp or Shrimps posted:The P31 is a top of the line Gen 3 drive and a great choice for laptops as it's more power efficient than other top of the line gen 3 drive competitors. My 4790K with a Hynix P31 1TB cold boots into Win 10 faster than the monitor can turn itself on from sleep. Which is the more of the credit to the BIOS optimization than the SSD itself though
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 02:03
|
|
|
Palladium posted:My 4790K with a Hynix P31 1TB cold boots into Win 10 faster than the monitor can turn itself on from sleep. If you're booting that fast, the credit is Windows Fast Startup. Fast startup isn't a true shutdown: it uses the hibernate feature to suspend the core OS to disk. Hibernate means the BIOS will skip parts of the boot sequence, and a fast SSD means you can blast that savestate into ram real quick. (Personally I didn't like fast boot; when I do a full shutdown I want a full reboot. On a desktop I just use regular S3 Sleep, which also resumes instantly, rather than shutdown.)
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 16:50
|
|
|
I use shift + shutdown to force a full shutdown everytime though.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 17:56
|
|
|
With my old mechanical drive showing its age and a chkdsk reallocated some sectors, I feel it's time to replace it and perhaps also move my OS from my old SATA SSD to an NVME. The current SSD market in Sweden has SATA at basically the same prices as M.2, so I don't really see a reason not to get an M.2. I'm wavering between purchasing a 2 TB Kingston KC2500 (1800 SEK) or a Samsung 970 EVO Plus (2200 SEK) to replace my current SATA Samsung EVO 840 (240 GB) as an OS drive. Looking at reviews the Samsung seems to be slightly better, but I'm not sure it's worth the 20% price premium. Is Kingston still on the poo poo list the OP has mentioned?
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2022 13:14
|
|
|
Lamquin posted:With my old mechanical drive showing its age and a chkdsk reallocated some sectors, I feel it's time to replace it and perhaps also move my OS from my old SATA SSD to an NVME. I would go for the Kingston unless you're made out of money. The reason why Kingston was put on the poo poo list was because they would swap internals (nand/controller) without changing product name, but pretty much all manufacturers do that now.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2022 13:22
|
|
|
Lamquin posted:I'm wavering between purchasing a 2 TB Kingston KC2500 (1800 SEK) or a Samsung 970 EVO Plus (2200 SEK) to replace my current SATA Samsung EVO 840 (240 GB) as an OS drive. Looking at reviews the Samsung seems to be slightly better, but I'm not sure it's worth the 20% price premium. Is Kingston still on the poo poo list the OP has mentioned? Kingston was originally on the poo poo list for doing scummy bait-and-switch moves, with secret downgrades to products after release. So you could read a great review / see recommendations, but then get something that wasn't as good in various small ways. In the past 2 years WD, Crucual, Adata, and others have also done that. So either Kingston isn't on the poo poo list, or everyone else (except samsung) has joined them there. At 20% markup I'd take the kingston over the samsung, I don't see any current complaints about it suddenly being trash.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2022 13:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
Kingston specifically markets the KC2500 as being a TLC drive, which is the key thing. Ideally you don't want a QLC drive as your main and they can't really switcheroo that when they're marketing it as not QLC.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2022 13:33
|
|