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Cat Hatter posted:Before you start adding fluid, twist the handle like you're letting down a car and then give it a couple full pumps to make sure there is no air in the lines. Every time I've gone to add fluid to my jack its always just been air. I followed your recommendation and gave it a couple full-stroke pumps with the valve turned open (so the jack wouldn't even try to lift). I haven't tried to lift a car with it yet, but when I lifted one end of my tool chest it worked like it did way back when it was new. Thanks! I love fixes that don't cost any money or any real effort. Edit to add: some pallets are made of chemically-treated lumber. These pallets will hold up well to water, but do not eat anything that comes out of a planter made of PT wood. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 23:27
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| # ? May 29, 2024 01:42 |
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I picked up the Hercules wide mouth tool bag from Harbor Freight and it's probably the best looking thing I've ever got from that store. Has a nice divider inside, comfortable strap too. I'm going to use it for tools for my home projects as opposed to mechanics stuff that should live in the garage. Getting real tired of he stairs when I forget things. It's a few pounds when empty and I expect it to be about 60lbs full. These things tend to get filled with loose items and become a mess like any purse does, so I'm liking this divider and the inside and outside pockets, which my other bag lacks.
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May 17, 2022 15:56
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PBCrunch posted:Edit to add: some pallets are made of chemically-treated lumber. These pallets will hold up well to water, but do not eat anything that comes out of a planter made of PT wood. Pallets have been hard to find the last couple of years so I'm not sure I should post this on a public forum and increase competition for my scavenging but I'll do it for my fellow goons. <insert>  All pallets used for international trade must be treated to prevent transport of agricultural pests and marked with a code to indicate how they've been treated: DB = debarked. Wood has had the bark removed, no further treatment. HT = heat treated. Wood has been put in a kiln and heated to kill off any pests. Majority of pallets are HT. BR = wood/pallet was put in a chamber and gassed with bromine. Very nasty stuff, but like the chlorine in tap water it evaporates over time. Very rare anyway, at least in this part of the world. No markings / none of the above is probably a one-off single-use pallet that was purpose built to ship a piece of equipment locally. God knows what it was built with, where it's been, or what's been spilled on it. Highly unlikely that any pallet now is built with cupric arsenate or any other pressure treated lumber to prevent rotting. Years ago they started using something less toxic in pressure treated wood, which is good because I no longer need to be careful about collecting sawdust and offcuts from fence posts and treating them as hazardous waste. I'm still not keen about using PT lumber around food crops but I think that's mainly an old habit. The dark blue Chetarp pallets are painted. They are made of high quality wood and built by craftspersons but like plastic milk crates remain the property of Chetarp and you're not supposed to have them. Highly unlikely you'll get hassled for having one or two but Chetarp gets really pissy if you start stockpiling a few hundred. Pallets get all sorts of poo poo spilled on them. Be cautious about using stained pallets and scavenging behind janitor supply houses, chemical warehouses, and bulk petroleum suppliers. Ask permission before scavenging anyway, some companies actually care about their deposit, others just want them gone. Do not pass this lore on to muggles. The less competition the better.
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May 17, 2022 16:38
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I actually just started collecting pallets yesterday to build some mountain bike trail elements. This is good info. gently caress the clowns burning them and making ugly rear end furniture.
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May 17, 2022 16:50
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I’m grateful for the “free pallet pile” at my local farm store. They have 20-30 every week and they seem to be decent quality. Note I’m using them for firewood stacking and consider them disposable, not project/upcycling grade.
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May 18, 2022 03:46
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If I got enough I have two huge white oaks I cut down a couple of years ago ripe for firewood, just need to get them off the ground
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May 18, 2022 03:55
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um excuse me posted:If I got enough I have two huge white oaks I cut down a couple of years ago ripe for firewood, just need to get them off the ground I built a "new" wood shed two weeks ago, after ice storm damage we had nearly 20 cords of wood. For the floor, I laid down driveway cloth with 3" of gravel on top. Pallets on top of that. It should provide airflow under the stacks and keep the pallets in decent shape. The rest of the wood is going to line my fence and be wrapped. No idea how long it will hold, but there's just so much of it.
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May 19, 2022 01:43
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Anyone got a good source on how to refresh a HF floor jack? I have an old 1.5 ton steel low profile jack whose lift pump is stuck halfway down. The quick lift cylinder inflates fully. I have no idea why this happened and don't know a ton about hydraulics. Does anyone make rebuild kits or should I just scrap it and buy a daytona?
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May 20, 2022 16:01
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Any recommendations for vacuum cooling system refill tools? I've used the oem tools one in the past and it was fine. I see there's also a horror fright one. The brass airlift is currently on sale on jbtools.
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May 22, 2022 22:03
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I've got the oemtools 24444 and imo it's the best one around (certainly for the price). Astro and a ton of others make a very similar version that I think is not as good. Plastic body, weird valve for the shop air, weird hanging setup, etc.
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:40 on May 22, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 23:37
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Same here. The OEM tools seems to pop up on sale every year. I've used it maybe twice? The Lisle funnel has really changed how I (read: crappy 90's Mazda's) bleed cooling systems.
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May 23, 2022 17:09
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um excuse me posted:Anyone got a good source on how to refresh a HF floor jack? I have an old 1.5 ton steel low profile jack whose lift pump is stuck halfway down. The quick lift cylinder inflates fully. I have no idea why this happened and don't know a ton about hydraulics. Does anyone make rebuild kits or should I just scrap it and buy a daytona? just looking around on youtube i found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7-EBkBxiPs
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May 23, 2022 18:05
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This doesn't pertain to any particular tool brand and in fact I would say you should reserve this trick for cheap tools or old tools you bought for next to nothing at the flea market, but something that has become necessary for me time and time again is to take my wrenches to the belt sander and sand the box end down until the bevel if-you-will is gone. The manufacturer puts this sort of 30-degree cant that leads from the outer edge of the box end to the inner edge where the teeth are and it's supposed to help you find your way onto a nut or bolt head more easily. BUT if you're dealing with bolts or nuts that are not very deep then you tend to slip off because that darned 32 or 16 of an inch in some cases is real estate that isn't grabbing your hardware. For me it was an absolute must on several of my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh wrenches because that area is deep on those sets.
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May 27, 2022 05:49
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Logistics posted:This doesn't pertain to any particular tool brand and in fact I would say you should reserve this trick for cheap tools or old tools you bought for next to nothing at the flea market, but something that has become necessary for me time and time again is to take my wrenches to the belt sander and sand the box end down until the bevel if-you-will is gone. The manufacturer puts this sort of 30-degree cant that leads from the outer edge of the box end to the inner edge where the teeth are and it's supposed to help you find your way onto a nut or bolt head more easily. BUT if you're dealing with bolts or nuts that are not very deep then you tend to slip off because that darned 32 or 16 of an inch in some cases is real estate that isn't grabbing your hardware. For me it was an absolute must on several of my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh wrenches because that area is deep on those sets. ive noticed this on cheap sockets versus more costly sockets, as well. the cheaper ones will have thicker walls and deeper lead-in. maybe it's easier to make them this way? the wall thickness is probably to make up for lacking metallurgy, but idk about the need for the taper.
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May 27, 2022 08:02
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Are Fuller brand tools any good? I'm talking pliers, screw drivers etc.. I know they're probably not going to be as good as snap on, matco etc... But are they at least on par with whatever house brands you might find at Canadian Tire, home depot etc...?
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May 27, 2022 23:55
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I've had a few Fuller hand tools and they were fine. But, I think the new ones are all generic made in china and now the just a brand licensing machine to whomever wants to use the name.
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May 28, 2022 00:39
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Are Fuller brand tools any good? I'm talking pliers, screw drivers etc.. For a screw driver I would probably make sure it's chromoly due to the increased hardness. For a pair of pliers I would highly suggest it's a set that is bound together with some fashion of threaded hardware that can be removed in case you want to modify or clean it properly and so it can be tightened and loosened at will. Many sets of pliers are permanently bound by a pressed pin that can loosen and wobble over time and I usually reserve trash like this for the one time I need to modify the head to fit in some strange place it will probably never have to fit again. BraveUlysses posted:just looking around on youtube i found this: I think this is interesting because one thing I've noticed about Harbor Freight tools is you need to change their lubricants. Some things are entirely beyond help, such as their 90-degree angle die grinders. There are two anemic gears inside that mesh at a 90-degree angle in a cheap grease and it is absolute crap--they always blow out within a week unless you regulate their air-pressure and use them at very low, impractical speed, but using good grease won't help here because the design is just plain garbage. But other tools will benefit greatly by simply changing their lubricant. An example I worked on first-hand is the hand-held "air polisher" (it looks just like a hand-grinder, but spins more slowly) and it didn't spin fast enough to perform it's function even with the knob at maximum. The pads sent with the tool have a texture more like make-up foams so I tried purchasing a polishing kit from our shop's paint supply store, but that didn't help; I just couldn't create enough heat at the maximum speed the tool was spinning. SO as a last-ditch effort I started running a can of Snap-On air-tool oil through it, which caused it to run significantly faster, and I kept pumping it full of oil (which looks like transmission fluid) until all of the green oil they lubed it with during manufacturing stopped coming out. Afterwards I began running some 90W140 gear-oil through it because it's just what I do with my air tools and I now use it to spot buff tight areas on cars I restore and polish hazy headlights etc. Only sucky part is the initial switch-over to different lubricant because it wants to spray out the exhaust on the bottom of the handle AND it tries to spray out around the chuck and arbor all over the backing pad so I had to carefully put a rag in front of the grinder, but behind the backing pad so it didn't get saturated by oil until it ran without spitting. I now only put a couple drops of gear oil in it whenever I pull it out to polish.
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May 28, 2022 02:42
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I need to find a big rear end tap handle for not too much money because this sucked to use and I was afraid it would send me to the ER. I didn't contraptioneer it, but I did use it. That's a 7/8" tap for scale. Suggestions? I'm assuming I'll end up with used, but for the right price I'd buy new. Handle needs to be at least 24" or so, ideally more like 36". My largest is like 16" and was nowhere near big enough.
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May 28, 2022 07:34
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Triple square socket set + ratcheting breaker bar of appropriate length. That should be a lot safer than the pictured setup.
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May 28, 2022 13:25
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Bajaha posted:Triple square socket set + ratcheting breaker bar of appropriate length. That should be a lot safer than the pictured setup. You really don't want an L-handle tap wrench. Unless the breaker bar is a sliding head "T" style, that's a recipe for broken taps.
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May 28, 2022 13:44
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Get the sliding handle bar and put a couple pipes on either end. Use tape to hold them in place
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May 28, 2022 13:49
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kastein posted:I need to find a big rear end tap handle for not too much money because this sucked to use and I was afraid it would send me to the ER. I didn't contraptioneer it, but I did use it. That's a 7/8" tap for scale. While I can understand that's hilarious and sucks to use, why would it be especially dangerous?
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May 28, 2022 15:08
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In my limited experience, using real cutting fluid makes a surprising difference vs something like WD when doing threads.
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May 28, 2022 15:30
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Yeah, I really want the cross handle for tapping - L handle is fine with large enough taps once it's started (and for chasing existing threads) but it's much easier to start taps straight and not break them with a cross handle. It also doubles the torque and is more ergonomic to push and pull at once than it is to just pull. I dunno about the oil - I've tried many cutting oils in the past and never really noticed a difference. The choices today were nothing, WD-40, or gear oil, and neither of us wanted to clean up the gear oil after so WD-40 it was. The triple square socket set is an interesting suggestion though, I might get those in large sizes to supplement my existing ratchet sockets for taps that only fit smaller sizes. Safety Dance posted:While I can understand that's hilarious and sucks to use, why would it be especially dangerous? The wrenches had a habit of popping off the tap, using it sitting flat on the plate with both hands on the 2x4 meant yanking the 2x4 around at crotch level with the ends of lag bolts just kind of sticking out of it. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 28, 2022 |
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May 28, 2022 17:02
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Years ago I made a 1/2" drive tap wrench/breaker bar thing at work. I took one of the old school sliding t handle breaker bars, cut the sides of the sliding part off (so it was like a badly coped/notched noint above a 1/2" square drive) and welded it to 3/4" black pipe. We used it to tap 1" NPT and it worked great. Dug around between 12 point, triple square and 8 point sockets to find one that fit, and wrapped some electrical tape around it to keep the tap from falling out.
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May 28, 2022 17:27
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a tap wrench helps to avoid putting sideways forces through the tap. so the tap won't break so easily but will also cut a rounder more accurate hole.
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May 29, 2022 14:48
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Cheapest option: The square end of a 1/2" drive 6pt socket + an appropriately side bolt embedded into something the center of a piece of wood + a jam nut and big washers.
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May 29, 2022 17:15
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For chasing threads on some of my augers at work (7/8" - 14 IIRC) I just welded a 17 mm socket on to the back of the tap and use my impact driver. I'm sure it will explode in my face one day, but it makes things really fast and easy. Also note, thats ONLY for chasing threads that are probably not that hosed up.
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May 30, 2022 01:12
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Milwaukee out with a new M18 inflator. https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/2848-20 Our FASTEST 18V CORDLESS TIRE INFLATOR. The M18™ Inflator delivers fast, accurate, easy inflation with the portability to take anywhere. Optimized for passenger, light truck, and other medium-duty tires. Rated to deliver max 150PSI, the high efficiency motor tops-off 33” light truck tires in under 1 minute. The TrueFill™ Technology features an auto-pressure check that is designed to WAIT for the pressure to stabilize, CHECK the system pressure, and FILL until the desired target is reached. In addition, an Auto Shut-Off feature will stop inflation at selected PSI to prevent overinflation allowing users to set it & forget it. Furthermore, the unit includes 4 PSI memory slots, anti-vibration feet, a 36” inch hose with an all-brass Schrader chuck, and an on-board hose and nozzle storage. I already have an M12, that came with I think a 4ah battery, so I don't really need this one, but I wish it existed a year or so ago. I kinda wish it had a different chuck though. I don't know what they're called, a spring locking chuck I think is what they're called. Wish mine had that.
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May 30, 2022 17:41
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I've got an AC inflator that works, and a cordless inflator that works VERY slowly, but the idea of a cordless one that would work as well as an AC model but let me check tires curbside is kind of motivating.
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May 30, 2022 18:50
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I bought another chuck for my M12 inflator. This one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/LUMITECO-Lengthened-Inflator-Connection-Schrader/dp/B081DXQGCD/ Other than the chuck and no memory, I've been more than happy with the M12. I don't see myself upgrading to the M18 until this one gives up the ghost. If it ever does.
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May 30, 2022 19:08
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tbh i really like the m12 version. the chuck on it is significantly better than the ryobi 18v inflator i've had for a while now.
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May 30, 2022 20:17
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I've got an AC inflator that works, and a cordless inflator that works VERY slowly, but the idea of a cordless one that would work as well as an AC model but let me check tires curbside is kind of motivating. I have the DeWalt 20v inflator. It is way way faster than the cigarette lighter inflator it replaced. Plus auto cut off at the desired pressure is so so nice. I use it for everything: bike tires, balls, beach toys. What cordless inflator do you have now that isn't working?
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May 30, 2022 22:06
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I want the M18 one but I have no use for it at home. Everything I have personally has low-ish profile tires or tiny wheels. I do use the M12 version regularly. I've got a presta adapter on it and use it for mtb tires every time before a ride. Keeps me from having to store a 2' tall bike pump that's only good at one thing.
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May 30, 2022 23:18
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Uncle Enzo posted:. It's a little Tacklife model, meant more for bikes or emergency use in cars. It's not comparable to anything that uses tool batteries. Still works but it runs less than half as fast as my Kobalt AC-powered inflator.
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May 30, 2022 23:32
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I am also trying to justify buying the M18 inflator, but the M12 has done pretty good for me so far. Finally got around to buying a couple of those little Maxxeon cyclops lights. Man those things loving rule. Also trying out the Gearwrench 120xp digital flex torque wrench. Seems pretty good, especially for the price. I like that there's basically no plastic and the 3/8 one is compact enough to swing in the valley of a 7.3. I see there's a newer version of it now that costs three times as much and has a different display.
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Jun 1, 2022 00:12
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sell me your m12 inflator so that you can upgrade
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Jun 1, 2022 14:19
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I rolled Rustoleum bedliner onto my 1993 Toyota Pickup bed yesterday. I used one of those mini rollers because the smaller diameter would get into the valleys between the bed "ribs". The cotton roller I used worked for like two minutes then constantly slipped off the metal center of the roller. I switched to a foam roller. It worked for two minutes and then the foam slipped off the little plastic center of the roller. I went back to the cotton roller and just made sure I was always applying a little pressure to the side to keep the roller from sliding off the end. Both rollers get an F.
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Jun 1, 2022 14:35
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PBCrunch posted:I rolled Rustoleum bedliner onto my 1993 Toyota Pickup bed yesterday. I used one of those mini rollers because the smaller diameter would get into the valleys between the bed "ribs". The cotton roller I used worked for like two minutes then constantly slipped off the metal center of the roller. I switched to a foam roller. It worked for two minutes and then the foam slipped off the little plastic center of the roller. I went back to the cotton roller and just made sure I was always applying a little pressure to the side to keep the roller from sliding off the end. Both rollers get an F. Yeah the crap ones do that. You could notch the end of the metal arm with a file and put a small E-clip on there maybe, or cut a few threads onto it and put on a small nut. Might scratch stuff tho.
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Jun 1, 2022 16:31
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| # ? May 29, 2024 01:42 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX4uHYEPOuY Stumbled across this on my YT feed. Comparative testing of 6 point vs. 12 point vs. spline.
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Jun 1, 2022 17:03
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