Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

Finished up a large mech today. Haven't done anything this size before, turned out painting was the easy part compared to assembly.


Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Sojenus posted:

Finished up a large mech today. Haven't done anything this size before, turned out painting was the easy part compared to assembly.




wow that's awesome!

the scenery is amazing too, is that model train/town stuff?

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

Booyah- posted:

wow that's awesome!

the scenery is amazing too, is that model train/town stuff?

Thanks! Scenary is all 10mm scale (so approximately N-scale train size) mostly from either 4ground or TTcombat, with all the vegetation being Woodland Scenics stuff.

EAThief
Aug 28, 2006

I swear it's not what you think



Been in nursing school for 2 years which ate all of my painting time. Feels good to get a few things done now.




Gladiator Valiant



100 Kingdoms Noble Lord from Conquest

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Booyah- posted:

I hear you about the setup-teardown stuff, I don't have room for a semi-permanent paint station so I have to clean a bunch of stuff before either brushing or airbrushing, get things set up, and then usually put stuff away right after. It could be worse but it adds an activation energy that can cause stagnation.

Looking at your list I see a few models that you seem most excited about but afraid to paint because you'll mess them up. One of the best ways for me to get past a hiatus has been to pick one of those models and jump in. I try to forget about getting it wrong, stripping paint is easy so I can always repaint it later. Having a model you're excited to see painted helps with getting over the annoyance of setup and teardown.

edit: as far as paints, try to restrict purchases to exactly what you need for your current project. You can stick to proven and cheaper paints like Vallejo if GW stuff is too expensive (and dropper bottles are infinitely easier to airbrush anyway.)

I actually need to sit down and catalog what paints I have, and what I might need. I think a good majority of the paints I have are Vallejo (I think largely Game Color), but I keep thinking about seeking out more of the Model Color line.

With the GW, the two big draws 1.) not having to do color matching for armies (as well as Citadel having certain unique shades), and 2.) the Contrast paints. I have a few of the Contrast paints, but those jars are pricey, so I've not bought too many. I also don't like the idea of relying too heavily on Contrast, because it seems like it is kind of limited with what you can do with it, and you still need to know how to use regular paints to make up for the shortcomings Contrast has.

Plus, the Citadel jars for shades and Contrast are just an accident waiting to happen (I remember someone showed off a clay mold or something where they kept the jars inside so they wouldn't tip over).

When I bought mini stuff in the past, I went through Miniature Market, and their deal is (unless it's changed) that orders of $100 or more get free shipping, so what I would do is pick a box of minis, and then get it up to $100 by picking various paints. Problem is that Miniature Market didn't always have everything I was looking for. Last time I remember ordering stuff was during lockdown, and around that time, some stuff was hard-to-find. I remember wanting to get the Vallejo Metal Color, but they didn't have it in stock, so I bought it from Michigan Toy Solider. Now that lockdown's over, maybe stuff is a bit easier to find.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Why not just set yourself like a totally reasonable goal like start off doing one single Mini a week?

That might be a good strategy. I could break it down to doing certain a certain step each day, rather than trying to do as much as I can at once (Monday: base paint, Tuesday: shading, etc.)

SiKboy posted:

If I'm struggling with motivation (when I want to want to paint, if you see what I mean. If I dont want to paint I just dont, but sometimes I want to but am just struggling to get started) then I go and pull an easy win out the pile 'o shame. What that looks like exactly will vary, but generally something thats never going to be a showcase piece but that you can make look decent to good with minimal effort. So stuff like ghosts (prime white, slap on nihalikth oxide or hexwraith flame, then drybrush white), robots/machines (metallics and a oil wash if you can be bothered, ink wash or nuln oil if you cant, quick gunmetal drybrush) or something that I'm going to be happy enough just using contrast paints and drybrushing. Zombies are good too, any mistakes can be covered up with gore.

So your AoS skeleton dudes for example, I'd imagine a lot of the rank and file will look pretty good with not a lot of effort (either Skeleton Horde contrast for the bones, or regular bone paint and a sepia wash if you dont have the contrast, paint whatever rags they are wearing, do the weapons and shields metallic then weather the absolute gently caress out of them which is always easy and fun, boom, jobs a good'un). So grab maybe 3-5 guys out the box, put aside a couple of hours of an evening and put some paint on them. Any mistakes because you're a little rusty, well they are the shambling dead, they dont need to look neat, plus they are 5 rank and file nobodies, no one ever looks at the 4th dude from the left in a unit that closely anyway.

I usually find that after the easy win I'm looking at what I've painted and going "Huh... That was really easy and relaxing and they actually turned out okay!" and it motivates me to paint more figures and more challenging figures. Sometimes even before I finish the easy win I end up grabbing something else out the pile kind of going "As I'm on a roll, might as well get some base colours down on this guy while I'm waiting for the wash to dry" or "Well, I put far too much of that colour on the palette and I cant put it back in the dropper bottle, might as well see who else could use some of that colour...". Almost everything in my pile is assembled and primed to make this as easy as possible to do.

I'd also agree with Booyah-, if you are back in the mood to paint, pick up one of those projects you have been saving and just do it. It'll look better with paint on it than it currently looks unassembled, unpainted, still in its box in a cupboard.

Cant help with the space issues, its one of the reasons why I dont have a proper airbrush myself and havent bought a 3d printer yet. Plus I look at all the stuff I have waiting to paint and have to admit to myself that a 3d printer is not necessary, I'm not short of stuff to paint to the point where I need to print more figures! My paints live in a 3 level wheeled kitchen storage thing I got from ikea, when I'm painting they get wheeled out to next to my desk (and a fold out tv table gets unfolded on the other side of me) and when I'm not they get wheeled away behind the couch. This is not a set-up that will easily integrate an airbrush and compressor, let alone a booth.

Funnily enough, the AoS skeleton that are painted were done with Contrast Skeleton Horde, and they came out looking pretty good. The mistakes thing is why I considered going doing Death Guard, because if you mess up, then it doesn't matter because they're meant to look like a huge mess anyway. Don't have any oil washes, but I thought about looking into it.

The storage/space stuff is something I have to figure out. The problem with doing it out in the shed is that the only work area is a wood-working bench, which I think is designed for you to be standing as work, rather than sitting (you can't place you legs underneath, making it a bit uncomfortable to sit there.) One thing I've worried about is that while I've kept the airbrush inside, the primers, thinner, cleaner, etc. are all out in the shed, and while it's extremely unlikely anything inside the shed freezes, the cold makes me wonder if it's affected those materials.

The weather is also kind of a factor when it comes to things. One of the big reasons I got an airbrush is so I could prime models without having to wait for good weather to use rattlecans. Same thing goes for building models, too; it's more comfortable to sit at my desk and put stuff together, but I want to keep the window open to ventilate the room so the odor from the Tamiya plastic glue doesn't give me further brain damage. If it's very cold or raining, having the window open isn't viable.

At the moment, I have my minis and paints and stuff stored in a cardboard box, and a plastic containers littered around, so I should probably look into some more proper storage to make them easier to access.

In regard to picking something out to paint, I have to take a look and see what I have primed. Since it's Memorial Day weekend, maybe I can try and get the airbrush setup and knock a bunch of stuff out so that's it's...well, primed and ready to paint if needed. Of course, that's provided nothing else comes up, or if I get distracted with something else.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
liquid talent saves the day again!




Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Contrast paints aren't actually that limited in application. Sure you can use them on top of a zenithal as suggested but you can also use them on top of metallic paints to colour them like an ink. You can use them thickly as a pseudo oil wash.

The main thing is you're paying (a lot) for convenience. A 37mL tube of artist oil paint goes for about 30-50% more than a 18mL bottle of contrast and if you're using it for washes you will probably never use up that tube. But if you have contrast paints lying around just use them. Putting paint on plastic is more important for your hobbying progress than waffling about on how you should put that paint on.

BaronVanAwesome
Sep 11, 2001

I will never learn the secrets of "Increased fake female boar sp..."

Never say never, buddy.
Now you know.
Now we all know.




In place of the Dark Lord you will set up a Queen. And I shall not be dark, but beautiful and terrible as the Morning and the Night! Fair as the Sea and the Sun and the Snow upon the Mountain! Dreadful as the Storm and the Lightning! Stronger than the foundations of the earth. All shall love me and despair!

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Not strictly a painting question, but I'm thinking of doing up some 30k Imperial Fists. From what I can tell after a little googling, they don't use the squad markings that became prevalent after the Codex Astartes was published, but instead just have their legion's icon on both shoulder pads (with some markings to denote things like veteran status). Thought I'd check in here and see if my fellow goons would know. :)

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Eej posted:

Contrast paints aren't actually that limited in application. Sure you can use them on top of a zenithal as suggested but you can also use them on top of metallic paints to colour them like an ink. You can use them thickly as a pseudo oil wash.

The main thing is you're paying (a lot) for convenience. A 37mL tube of artist oil paint goes for about 30-50% more than a 18mL bottle of contrast and if you're using it for washes you will probably never use up that tube. But if you have contrast paints lying around just use them. Putting paint on plastic is more important for your hobbying progress than waffling about on how you should put that paint on.

The Contrast over metallic is actually what I had in mind to paint that 30K Ahriman once it's up for sale, because Blood Angels Red over Retributor Armor will give you that candy red effect.

The limitations I was thinking was that Contrast paints work better on models that have more detailed areas, but on models that have large flat surfaces, they don't work quite as well. I know you can get some different results depending on what colors you use for the zenithal, but if you're trying to get a particular shade of color, Contrast doesn't well suited for it. Plus, depending on how the Contrast settles, you still may want to go back in with base or layer paints to clean up or highlight as needed.

All that said, that's just based on what I've read and heard, and my limited experience with them. I like them a lot, and I'd buy the whole range if it didn't cost over $250. It just that in a lot of cases, it seems like they're not really employed as the go-to for painting everything on a model, but as something to use to acquire certain results or to shortcut certain parts (I'm basing this off what I see from model painters on Youtube, mind you, and I'd say lean more towards the professional end of mini painting, so it's probably not a good point of comparison.) You can use Contrast to get some extremely good looking results, but you still need to get a handle on other painting methods if you want to do something like, say, paint lightning bolts on Night Lords.

EDIT: I guess there's also Army Painter's new Speed Paints, which are supposed to be their answer to Contrast, but I haven't watched anything on those yet.

Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:07 on May 29, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Max Wilco posted:

I actually need to sit down and catalog what paints I have, and what I might need. I think a good majority of the paints I have are Vallejo (I think largely Game Color), but I keep thinking about seeking out more of the Model Color line.

With the GW, the two big draws 1.) not having to do color matching for armies (as well as Citadel having certain unique shades), and 2.) the Contrast paints. I have a few of the Contrast paints, but those jars are pricey, so I've not bought too many. I also don't like the idea of relying too heavily on Contrast, because it seems like it is kind of limited with what you can do with it, and you still need to know how to use regular paints to make up for the shortcomings Contrast has.

Plus, the Citadel jars for shades and Contrast are just an accident waiting to happen (I remember someone showed off a clay mold or something where they kept the jars inside so they wouldn't tip over).

When I bought mini stuff in the past, I went through Miniature Market, and their deal is (unless it's changed) that orders of $100 or more get free shipping, so what I would do is pick a box of minis, and then get it up to $100 by picking various paints. Problem is that Miniature Market didn't always have everything I was looking for. Last time I remember ordering stuff was during lockdown, and around that time, some stuff was hard-to-find. I remember wanting to get the Vallejo Metal Color, but they didn't have it in stock, so I bought it from Michigan Toy Solider. Now that lockdown's over, maybe stuff is a bit easier to find.

That might be a good strategy. I could break it down to doing certain a certain step each day, rather than trying to do as much as I can at once (Monday: base paint, Tuesday: shading, etc.)

Funnily enough, the AoS skeleton that are painted were done with Contrast Skeleton Horde, and they came out looking pretty good. The mistakes thing is why I considered going doing Death Guard, because if you mess up, then it doesn't matter because they're meant to look like a huge mess anyway. Don't have any oil washes, but I thought about looking into it.

The storage/space stuff is something I have to figure out. The problem with doing it out in the shed is that the only work area is a wood-working bench, which I think is designed for you to be standing as work, rather than sitting (you can't place you legs underneath, making it a bit uncomfortable to sit there.) One thing I've worried about is that while I've kept the airbrush inside, the primers, thinner, cleaner, etc. are all out in the shed, and while it's extremely unlikely anything inside the shed freezes, the cold makes me wonder if it's affected those materials.

The weather is also kind of a factor when it comes to things. One of the big reasons I got an airbrush is so I could prime models without having to wait for good weather to use rattlecans. Same thing goes for building models, too; it's more comfortable to sit at my desk and put stuff together, but I want to keep the window open to ventilate the room so the odor from the Tamiya plastic glue doesn't give me further brain damage. If it's very cold or raining, having the window open isn't viable.

At the moment, I have my minis and paints and stuff stored in a cardboard box, and a plastic containers littered around, so I should probably look into some more proper storage to make them easier to access.

In regard to picking something out to paint, I have to take a look and see what I have primed. Since it's Memorial Day weekend, maybe I can try and get the airbrush setup and knock a bunch of stuff out so that's it's...well, primed and ready to paint if needed. Of course, that's provided nothing else comes up, or if I get distracted with something else.

I have, probably a lot of paint right now.




plus 6 more pots I haven't had the time to transfer to dropper bottles

plus oils, plus hard body artist acrylics, plus a few inks. I did a few dollars into that Scale75 kickstarter on right now just because I figure I can get the basic colors from them, a company I don't have, and i'll have a slight increase in variety, not that I need it.

I figure, if you have anything similar to this, you have enough paints too, and don't really need more. It's just a matter of how much effort you want to put into it.

Generally, everything I read is that models need 3 colors on them. it could be three shades of grey on a colorful base, even. But, you don't need much. Mostly my collection is due to "i need this to make things easier" but, that's been because of ease of use.

I agree with sikboy, for minis no one is going to pay very close attention to, you can get some easy wins by putting more paint on models, even if it doesn't look great (to you) it may look great, to others.

The one thing I love about this community is even if you think something looks like dogshit, someone out there thinks, legitimate or not, that it's decent. Someone out there may think it looks better than what they can do, and regardless, that does feel good.

The more paint you put on models, the more practice you get. The more experience you get, and you'll know what works and what doesn't, and isn't that part of the struggle anyways? Not knowing what to do to make your work better? Having an idea but not knowing how to make your own hands do the thing you saw with your eyes? I struggle with that daily, but whenever I show my work to others, especially others who don't understand all the work that goes into it, they're always impressed. Just the fact of you trying is sometimes all you really need.

That's why I'm saying if you wanna get back into it, just do 1 model a week. Hell, 1 model a month. You probably don't need more paint, just pick 3 colors opposite each other on the color wheel and do as much as you can with those 3 colors

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:07 on May 29, 2022

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

Sydney Bottocks posted:

Not strictly a painting question, but I'm thinking of doing up some 30k Imperial Fists. From what I can tell after a little googling, they don't use the squad markings that became prevalent after the Codex Astartes was published, but instead just have their legion's icon on both shoulder pads (with some markings to denote things like veteran status). Thought I'd check in here and see if my fellow goons would know. :)



Yeah, going through the black book, it looks like it's generally:

Small squad icon on right forearm or right pauldron
Legion icon on both pauldrons, which can be combined with command wreath on right pauldron, Raptor Imperialis/Unification War veteran honors on left pauldron

but since nothing was really standardized and there were like 100,000 Imperial Fists broken up into however many Crusades/Households, there's more than enough room to do your own thing

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





GreenBuckanneer posted:

I have, probably a lot of paint right now.




plus 6 more pots I haven't had the time to transfer to dropper bottles

plus oils, plus hard body artist acrylics, plus a few inks. I did a few dollars into that Scale75 kickstarter on right now just because I figure I can get the basic colors from them, a company I don't have, and i'll have a slight increase in variety, not that I need it.

I figure, if you have anything similar to this, you have enough paints too, and don't really need more. It's just a matter of how much effort you want to put into it.

Generally, everything I read is that models need 3 colors on them. it could be three shades of grey on a colorful base, even. But, you don't need much. Mostly my collection is due to "i need this to make things easier" but, that's been because of ease of use.

I agree with sikboy, for minis no one is going to pay very close attention to, you can get some easy wins by putting more paint on models, even if it doesn't look great (to you) it may look great, to others.

The one thing I love about this community is even if you think something looks like dogshit, someone out there thinks, legitimate or not, that it's decent. Someone out there may think it looks better than what they can do, and regardless, that does feel good.

The more paint you put on models, the more practice you get. The more experience you get, and you'll know what works and what doesn't, and isn't that part of the struggle anyways? Not knowing what to do to make your work better? Having an idea but not knowing how to make your own hands do the thing you saw with your eyes? I struggle with that daily, but whenever I show my work to others, especially others who don't understand all the work that goes into it, they're always impressed. Just the fact of you trying is sometimes all you really need.

That's why I'm saying if you wanna get back into it, just do 1 model a week. Hell, 1 model a month. You probably don't need more paint, just pick 3 colors opposite each other on the color wheel and do as much as you can with those 3 colors

Looks like you have a good set of paints there. If you like Vallejo I recommend picking up one of their WW2 paint sets. Like German or American infantry, or German Armor. They have greens, browns, and yellows that are more muted and allow you to do leather or cloth bags a little more desaturated than citadel colors while still having some color, so they look good but don't distract. Then if you ever do Flames of War Dust, or Bolt Action you also have the colors you need.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
I'm sure this is pretty well known by know, but in trying to get back into mini stuff, I was disappointed to learn that Secret Weapon miniatures closed shop. They made some really good looking bases (some of which I bought).

Something I was also surprised to learn is that Spikey Bits sells 3D printed minatures. Has anyone here bought something from them before? It looks like they've got a sale that's due to end soon: https://spikeybits.com/store/BOGO-Miniatures-c68361415

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I have, probably a lot of paint right now.

Where'd you get your dropper bottles for contrast paints from and what size are they? I want them.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Honestly I prefer the contrast paints in pots, and wish the AP speedpaints came in pots instead of droppers. Because I'm not always (or even usually) thinning or mixing them them, using them from the pot is fine, but if there is a figure where, for example, only their face and forearms are exposed its basically impossible to only squeeze the tiny amount of crusader skin out a dropper bottle that I need for those areas, so I'm left with extra speedpaint being wasted on the palette unless I have another figure who needs that particular colour to hand. Yes, rationally I know thats an insignificant amount of paint, but it bothers me anyway.

Vaguely related, but; Speedpaints on wet palettes; Yay or Nay? I've watched probably a million videos on speedpaints in the last 6 months but I dont remember any mentioning specifically either way which probably means its fine but thought I'd check.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Max Wilco posted:

I'm sure this is pretty well known by know, but in trying to get back into mini stuff, I was disappointed to learn that Secret Weapon miniatures closed shop. They made some really good looking bases (some of which I bought).

Something I was also surprised to learn is that Spikey Bits sells 3D printed minatures. Has anyone here bought something from them before? It looks like they've got a sale that's due to end soon: https://spikeybits.com/store/BOGO-Miniatures-c68361415

I'm so upset by this, their bases were fantastic. I liked their game board concept too.

sasha_d3ath
Jun 3, 2016

Ban-thing the man-things.

ANGERY

eta: MAGNUS rolls WORST JOINT IN THE WARP

Asked to leave the Rubric

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Some more Malifaux, the outlaw Barrows Gang

Parker Barrows, and his sidekick Doc Mitchell


Mad Dog Brackett, and Sue


The Bandidos and a Dead Outlaw


Whole crew, including a Convict Gunslinger I painted a couple of years ago before I got the rest of the crew, which then sort of dictated the basing scheme for the rest of them...

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

AndyElusive posted:

Where'd you get your dropper bottles for contrast paints from and what size are they? I want them.

30ml along the top of the rack, I made a somewhat recent post with the link in this thread if you filter the posts, I'll try to edit my post later, just woke up

Edit:

30ml - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F098JJA (I stuck all my contrasts in this)


AP says no to wet palette because it bleeds through, but I haven't tried that on my rgg palette yet, just been using a hard palette

SiKboy posted:

Some more Malifaux, the outlaw Barrows Gang


I like the lighting following the "air" in your shots above

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 14:29 on May 29, 2022

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

GreenBuckanneer posted:



I like the lighting following the "air" in your shots above

Thanks! Its partially intentional, partially the result of messing around with weathering powders and going in way too heavy at first!

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

ijyt posted:

I'm so upset by this, their bases were fantastic. I liked their game board concept too.

Their site is still up, but if you browse it, there are no products listed.

With them gone, I don't know where to look for detailed bases of the same style/quality.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





SiKboy posted:


Vaguely related, but; Speedpaints on wet palettes; Yay or Nay? I've watched probably a million videos on speedpaints in the last 6 months but I dont remember any mentioning specifically either way which probably means its fine but thought I'd check.

Duncan Rhodes specifically advises that contrast paints should go on a hard palette and not a wet palette. I would imagine that would hold true for AP speedpaint as well. Duncan advises that contrast paint, washes, and metallics all go on a dry palette. I imagine that there are probably some dissenting opinions out there, but that is at least one high level painter that advises against using them on a wet palette.

Edit to add: Duncan also advises that metallic paints get their own wash pot as well.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



I'd like to paint some Death Guard, but I'm struggling in picking a color scheme that's different from the normal green.

Blue seems to be a solid option for skin, but I'm undecided.

Does anyone have any great Death Guard alt color schemes?

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

The Demilich posted:

I'd like to paint some Death Guard, but I'm struggling in picking a color scheme that's different from the normal green.

Blue seems to be a solid option for skin, but I'm undecided.

Does anyone have any great Death Guard alt color schemes?

Well, there's the Apostles of Contagion, who have rusted iron armor. I've seen a couple of Death Guard scheme (can't remember if they belong to a particular warband) that are done in a bone or beige color as the base.

EDIT:Here's the Lords of Decay, which the 40K Lexicanum identifies as grey with green and brown rot.


EDIT2: Screenshots I found of Death Guard Vectoriums from one of the books:


Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 18:52 on May 29, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Any suggestions? Not sure what next to do with him

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Duncan Rhodes specifically advises that contrast paints should go on a hard palette and not a wet palette. I would imagine that would hold true for AP speedpaint as well. Duncan advises that contrast paint, washes, and metallics all go on a dry palette. I imagine that there are probably some dissenting opinions out there, but that is at least one high level painter that advises against using them on a wet palette.

Edit to add: Duncan also advises that metallic paints get their own wash pot as well.

I notice that metallics are fine on a Redgrass palette, the paper is thick enough that it's not a problem. However, the GreenStuffWorld palette paper is too thin, and I've noticed it leaks through.

I've used contrast on my RGG before with no issues, but I use a hard palette for it now.

You should also use a separate waterpot for metallics though, I've cleaned some not-important brushes in the same pot and noticed it gets tons of silica in the bristles even if I know I've never used it before with metallics.

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 29, 2022

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

GreenBuckanneer posted:



Any suggestions? Not sure what next to do with him

I'd probably change the hair colour, its currently the same blue (at least to my eye) as the undershirt of the armour. Maybe a real bright red? Even going black with it would at least give you that contrast.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

SiKboy posted:

I'd probably change the hair colour, its currently the same blue (at least to my eye) as the undershirt of the armour. Maybe a real bright red? Even going black with it would at least give you that contrast.

I kind of liked the blue hair, I was thinking blond initially?

I was trying to go with green/red/blue for the primary colors (split complementary)

These are test models, I (in retrospect, stupidly) did the whole model with a cover of AP Magic Blue speedpaint, instead of picking certain areas.

Bright red, huh?

Evil Sunz Scarlet
or
Wild Rider Red

:thunk:

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Max Wilco posted:

Well, there's the Apostles of Contagion, who have rusted iron armor. I've seen a couple of Death Guard scheme (can't remember if they belong to a particular warband) that are done in a bone or beige color as the base.

EDIT:Here's the Lords of Decay, which the 40K Lexicanum identifies as grey with green and brown rot.


EDIT2: Screenshots I found of Death Guard Vectoriums from one of the books:


Oh hell yeah, I have similar Thousand Sons scans and my Google fu was weak because I couldn't find any similar to the Death Guard to get some inspiration.

But I'll clarify and say that I'm open to any color, it doesn't have to follow any sort of official aesthetic.

I only have one DG unit that I basecoated maybe a year ago:

I really like what I have so far but I'm rather paralyzed about wtf to do from here. I'm not committed to the OG DG style in any way, but I do like the blue flame I have going on here and I like the overall contrast I have so far.

Going with some basic color theory, Apsotles of Contagion fit really well as you mentioned, especially since I want that blue as my special osl/highlight color, plus I'm using a lot of sienna on this Lord as well which has red & yellow tones in its various forms. I can just shift the color on the body over to a more deep filthy copper color to really pop that blue.

Just spitballing some ideas:
  • Base steps:
  • Prime gloss black
  • Pick osl/points of light
  • Zenithal prime from selected points black metallic silver and a medium silver.
  • Drybrush bright silver Ina few particular places if it fits.
  • Reapply black to exposed fleshy bits and non metals.

  • Armor:
  • Apply raw sienna ink for the highs on the armor, followed by burnt sienna for the mids, then raw umber for the lows. Tinge all inks with a bit of orange ink just to boost the saturation a bit and approximate a copper color.
  • Gloss varnish
  • Oil wash that poo poo. Colors TBD
  • Apply very selective highlights. I imagine the histogram for the armor being more darker than not visually, specifically because...
  • Verdigris! For models where I alter/remove flesh but still want splashes of cold in the sea of warm filth, I can probably use verdigris in place of where I would traditionally use an orange rust for normal DG stuff.

  • Flesh:
  • I need to pick a color, maybe also a blue? Blue with purple with some bruising? I think black blood would look good with this color as well, maybe with some strings whatever other colors that fit the surrounding area.
  • Since it's primed black, I'm going to dry brush grey, then dry brush white, I want texture.
  • Paint veins out on flesh where wanted, color TBD
  • Airbrush flesh tones, color TBD. It'll be transparent enough to make those veins look good though.
  • Touchups and texturing.

  • Bases:
  • I don't know, ice? Maybe it's too bright. But I could have them leaving a trail of drippings and filth behind them. A combo of cold and yellow snow lol

Looking back on what I just wrote, I'm not liking the ice theme at the end, I don't want the flesh to look frozen, so ice probably isn't a good idea for a base.

Hell I'm still open to changing the flesh and osl colors away from that blue, I mean I've only half assedly done one model. Flesh, slime, and smoke probably shouldn't be the same color, that might get boring.

Blue flame, orange skin, and neutral armor tones that are really just a canvas for filthy textures instead?

Green and red DG feels... off, not sure why, maybe I'm just not looking at the proper palette. In my heart I feel like red skin is just too much of a Khorne association (even with green armor). If you reverse it and go with red armor and green skin, I just don't know how to feel about it.

Yellow skin? Jaundice can be on the menu.
Magenta and purple flesh?
Hell, pale white just so I can do veins everywhere?

I plan on kitbashing my DG as well, I've never been a fan of just corpulence. I want dessication, I want famine. I need to figure out how to properly hollow or a marine, and also figure out what I can use for astartes bone because I sure as hell can't sculpt skeletal bits.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

The Demilich posted:

I'd like to paint some Death Guard, but I'm struggling in picking a color scheme that's different from the normal green.

Blue seems to be a solid option for skin, but I'm undecided.

Does anyone have any great Death Guard alt color schemes?

You can go with the popular non green DG theme: Wrath of the Lich King era Death Knights.



Or you can just go for a different kind of grungy colour scheme like David Soper

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


If I was doing Death Guard, I'd definitely do brown/orange rusted armour with teal accents.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I kind of liked the blue hair, I was thinking blond initially?

I was trying to go with green/red/blue for the primary colors (split complementary)

These are test models, I (in retrospect, stupidly) did the whole model with a cover of AP Magic Blue speedpaint, instead of picking certain areas.

You could punch up the hair with a brighter blue, Reaper's LED Blue would be my suggestion but since you probably don't have it finding (or making) a lighter teal color would change the hair's tone without clashing too much. Red would definitely pop, so would orange.

I also see two big flat areas (the chest plate and the shield) that are just screaming for a freehand space pirate logo.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

GreenBuckanneer posted:



Any suggestions? Not sure what next to do with him


I'd add the three things that I learn my minis need every time I watch a Vince video:

* Contrast
* Contrast
* Contrast

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Any better?



Bonus points to anyone who recognizes the logo

It's the logo for the harkonens from dune, according to Google anyway

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 15:22 on May 30, 2022

Ghislaine of YOSPOS
Apr 19, 2020

What's your favorite way to do blue fire? I'm doing a unit of pink horrors.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



What's the largest Death Guard terminator model between 30k & 40k?

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



The Demilich posted:

What's the largest Death Guard terminator model between 30k & 40k?

Lord of Virulence probably?

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



I'll rephrase, ignoring character models, which squad of terminators is the largest? Blight Lords, FW Deathshrouds, 40k Deathshroud bodyguard? I don't know if there are others.

I do plan on getting that Lord of Virulence though lol

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
3D printed knockoff, upscaled to the size of a Warlord titan.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

abravemoose
Jul 2, 2021
Painted Reikenor the Grimhailer.



Also celebrating a one year painting streak. One warhammer unit per week.

The first unit


And some I was proud of

Ultramarine HQs



No hunch scouts


Skull Altar


Retibutors


Halflings

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply