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Just successfully converted my tires to tubeless today (or at least they've held up so far without seeming to leak or otherwise lose pressure). Posting my experience in case it helps anyone else. This was 700x41 Surly tires on WTB rims for reference. I don't have a compressor and minimal experience even replacing tubes in bikes so I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it and might have to go back to the shop in shame. The first tire took me 1.5 hours while I was figuring things out but I did the second in under half an hour. I used Stan's based on LBS recommendation and the green high temp masking tape I've seen previously recommended on the forums. Would definitely recommend - was way cheaper than the bike specific tape and I had no issues putting it on or sealing it. What I wouldn't recommend are the WTB valve stems the bike shop sold me, one of the valve stems was totally stuck and took me some serious wrangling to get out no matter what tool I used. I had a hell of a time getting the tire on and seating the bead. The soapy water method I'd seen recommended online didn't help me at all. I finally had success running a tire lever around the whole wheel to get the bead in place before trying to pump it up - it popped into place almost immediately. Looking forward to being able to run lower pressures and hopefully never get flats in most normal riding situations!
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May 1, 2022 03:25
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Flash Gordon posted:I had a hell of a time getting the tire on and seating the bead. Just did another set of tires recently (Cazadero 42mm on Hunt X 35s). I'd never previously had a problem with tires sealing up well enough with hand pumping to have their beads walk up to the lip of the rim. But this time, it was just way too leaky. For the first tire, I did same as you -- nudged the bead all around using a tire lever. Took forever cuz the bead would slip off in other spots besides right where the lever was. Someone suggested the following, which I executed with ease with the 2nd tire -- put in a tube, seal the tire up, pump up the tire and fully seat the beads, and then pop one side off and remove the tube. The deeply seated bead helped center the loose side more, and of course air wasn't leaking on that side. So much easier. Well worth the time cost of installing and removing the tube. Old Cazaderos aren't officially tubeless, but I'm just gonna trust the posts online that say they aren't too porous and hold up without a supporting tube.
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May 1, 2022 03:59
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Salt Fish posted:Trying to get rid of the chain guide/retainer on my 1x10 bike. Is it enough to run a narrow-wide chainring or do I need narrow-wide jockey wheels as well? I'm planning to run a current generation zee 10-speed rear mech with a raceface narrow wide chainring. My force 1x11 rear mech on another bike has the narrow-wide jockey wheels which is what got me thinking about it.
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May 1, 2022 17:24
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mikemelbrooks posted:There is no need of narrow-wide pulley wheels. I have narrow-wide pulley wheels and I loving hate them.
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May 2, 2022 04:14
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bicievino posted:I have narrow-wide pulley wheels and I loving hate them.
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May 2, 2022 20:17
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Isn't nw meant to lock the chain in place with no side to side movement while derailleur pulleys SHOULD have side to side movement so all the ramps on the cassette can do their job?
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May 2, 2022 21:06
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Dog Case posted:Isn't nw meant to lock the chain in place with no side to side movement while derailleur pulleys SHOULD have side to side movement so all the ramps on the cassette can do their job? Just the B pulley, the tension pulley doesn't usually do side to side, and is the one which has the nw teeth when applicable.
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May 2, 2022 21:41
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I picked up a 4iii power meter, looking at instructions for installing Hollowtech 2 crank arms, it sounds like I need to grease the splines. What type of grease do I use?
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May 20, 2022 11:01
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LordOfThePants posted:I picked up a 4iii power meter, looking at instructions for installing Hollowtech 2 crank arms, it sounds like I need to grease the splines. What type of grease do I use? Any. Well, maybe not bacon grease.
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May 20, 2022 11:43
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SimonSays posted:Any. Well, the two types of grease I stock are bacon grease and Lucas 10301, so that makes it easy.
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May 20, 2022 15:20
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I bought a Zee rd-m640 - it comes in two versions: Wide ratio spec for Free ride >11-32T Close ratio spec for DH <11-28T The box from the shipper was labeled 11-32, but I'm pretty sure its actually an 11-28 because looking at it the cage is as short as possible without the jockey wheels touching. I installed it regardless and now I'm 99% sure but there aren't any markings on the stupid thing to prove it, and I'm a huge idiot so maybe I'm doing something very dumb. Is there a spec somewhere where I can just measure the cage length and confirm its the wrong part? 
Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 19:28 on May 30, 2022 |
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May 30, 2022 19:22
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Salt Fish posted:I bought a Zee rd-m640 - it comes in two versions: Google image the two and take a photo of yours and see which is which?
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May 30, 2022 19:27
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do they not label those GS and SGS like the road derailleurs?
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May 31, 2022 01:32
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It looks like both the close ratio and the wide ratio come only with the short cage. The cage length really only affects the derailleur's capacity, which is the difference in your rear cogs plus the difference in your front chainrings. The capacity for both Zees is 25, so if you're a 1x in the front, the cage is fine for your 11-32 cassette. If you have a 2x you'd only be able to have a 4 tooth different in the front, which essentially means you can't use it on a 2x. If you have the close ratio derailleur I'd expect to see the b-limit screw unable to get your derailleur to clear the 32 tooth cog. Normally Shimano's great about putting their model number on their parts somewhere, but it looks like both ratios use the same RD-M640 SS designation. Weird! So even if you do find one, it might not prove anything.
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May 31, 2022 02:06
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Thanks! Super helpful, I'm going to watch a park tool video about it and stare at my bike for a while. I'll probably report back with something embarrassing I did. edit: OKAY that was easy! It turns out that on the frame there is a little tiny peg, and what you have to do is put the derailleur so that it hangs on the correct side of the peg. What happens when its on the wrong side of the peg? Well you can't shift into either the smallest or largest cog depending on how long you make the chain. I never took a derailleur off a bike before today, but going through this has seared the peg into my memory and I'll never make that mistake again... Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 03:19 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 03:09
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Salt Fish posted:I bought a Zee rd-m640 - it comes in two versions: Bookmark this: https://si.shimano.com/#/ Then search and find this: https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RD0001/DM-RD0001-06-ENG.pdf notably:  Check out part number 1. (Though I'm a little confused why you can't swap between the two according to the language of the page I screenshot). https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/RD-M640/EV-RD-M640-3438A.pdf
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May 31, 2022 15:34
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I ordered a TyreGlider on a whim and the day after it arrived I realized I had to change the rear tire because it was worn down to the threads. I've always just done that by hand (no tire irons) but got tired of literally pealing skin off my thumbs on difficult fits. The tool works great at removing tires. Didn't use it to put on the new one (Vittoria Rubino Pro 40mm 26" ers) because they mount easily.
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May 31, 2022 19:42
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 timeI'm thinking of building some wheels since I've never done it before and I want a project. Symmetric or asymmetric carbon rims? Asymmetric gives you better spoke angles for more even tension, and they're supposedly stronger laterally. But wouldn't symmetric rims be stronger vertically? Bridge arches must be symmetrical for a reason right?
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May 31, 2022 22:39
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The rim design could account for that if it was an issue, don't worry about it. Asymmetry seems good but it's probably not the main deciding factor in chosing a rim. Building wheels is a fun project - I've built 3 sets during covid and none haven't failed me yet, not for lack of trying. I highly recommend the Musson book. 
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Jun 1, 2022 02:04
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Wifi Toilet posted:
There are a lot of other stuff I have to say, but I would not want to ruin your fun.
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Jun 1, 2022 02:23
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Wifi Toilet posted:
Doesn't matter, pick what's cool, it'll be fine.
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Jun 1, 2022 02:42
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building wheels is fun, do something cheap for the first set
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Jun 1, 2022 03:26
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Spoke question. I've had my Specialized Diverge since last year and after around 1.000 km a rear spoke snapped, I had it fixed after riding like 60ish kms (the mechanic who's a buddy of a buddy said to come back three months later to check tension but we had a misunderstanding and that never happened) and then after 2.500 another snapped, i brought it to another place, they fixed it, then after 400ish kms another spoke snapped, had it fixed again. Soooo my question is should I just have all spokes done new again? I've got a big multi-week tour coming up and I'm worried the other spokes are fucky now because I'm deaf and don't notice it immediately if one snaps plus all the times I had to ride home on the broken spoke, like between 20 and 40 km. I don't know if that's extra bad but what I'm reading is you're fine to ride it home and to the mechanic. The mechanic just said it's something that's just gonna happen between 2.500 and 5.000 kms. They also said the black spokes are weaker because of the coloring and thicker spokes won't work because the hole's too small. So, what's the smart course of action here?
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Jun 2, 2022 16:07
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Get the wheel rebuilt which will include new spokes.
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Jun 2, 2022 16:09
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Agreed. Back in the days spokes broke a lot, but modern ones are very consistent and failures are rare. My general rule of thumb is after a second broken spoke, it means something was done wrong on the build, and it'll just keep happening until it's fully rebuilt.
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Jun 2, 2022 16:37
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Zwille posted:They also said the black spokes are weaker because of the coloring quote:and thicker spokes won't work because the hole's too small. a) Thicker spokes aren't more durable; better spokes are more durable. Spokes that have some butting (middle is drawn out and thinner) will stretch over a bigger range, meaning they don't suddenly drop tension when compressed as the rim rolls right above the contact patch with the ground. Nice thinner spokes will cycle over tension and detension cycles with less fatigue and last longer. b) almost all spokes use the same threading standard on their ends and can use a variety of nipples. It's the nipple format that determines fitment to the spoke hole on a rim. Both parts of the claim seem extremely suspect for a mechanic.
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Jun 2, 2022 16:50
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Okay, thanks for all the replies, that settles it! A buddy suggested I'd take those flat spokes (he called them knife spokes) but couldn't explain to me how they'd be more stable with the same diameter, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Guess I'll have to switch the mechanic then or hope the other mechanic at the shop does it  Also I'll try those drawn out spokes if they offer it. Wonder if I should have the front wheel rebuilt as well, though nothing's happened there so far so I guess that's not strictly necessary.
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Jun 2, 2022 17:03
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Zwille posted:Guess I'll have to switch the mechanic then or hope the other mechanic at the shop does it Sapim is probably the most common name for quality spoke brands. They carry a range, and any of their butted spokes should be good for your rebuild. Cheap spokes are like 40c, and quality spokes $2. So it's a moderate but not huge cost to go to nicer spokes. Compared to the shop labor cost to redo the wheel.
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Jun 2, 2022 17:16
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Extremely happy with my Sapim triple butted spokes on my DH bike. Goons will attest I'm a big guy with no flow who runs way too low PSI and smashes his wheels into every offline thing possible. The rear wheel has had like 3 flats last year from me being stupid and between the Sapim spikes and spank rim it's dead true and fully tensioned still. Not a good place to save money imo, get the best spokes that are available. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jun 2, 2022 |
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Jun 2, 2022 17:24
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Yeah I’ve already spent like 40-60 bucks on redoing the spokes, also I’m heavy and sometimes miss potholes, so if going full new and better helps in the long run that’s what I’ll do. I was looking for spokes and read good things about sapim as well, particularly the cx ray https://www.sapim.be/spokes/aero/cx-ray While I’m fielding dumb questions, anyone gotta idea what’s up with this? It’s two coils and one came right off, the other stuck there. I’ll ask at the bike shop tomorrow anyway but it seemed weird. 
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Jun 2, 2022 19:58
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Oh man. It looks like someone tried to use a quick release skewer (which normally have those coils) with your thru-axle frame. Could you take a picture of what your rear hub looks like when you take it off the bike?
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Jun 2, 2022 20:37
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bicievino posted:Oh man. It looks like someone tried to use a quick release skewer (which normally have those coils) with your thru-axle frame. If it was the mechanic, you need to put up a warning ad on local bike groups about this person.
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Jun 2, 2022 21:25
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bicievino posted:Oh man. It looks like someone tried to use a quick release skewer (which normally have those coils) with your thru-axle frame. lol yeah, that’s what my mind jumped to at first but it didn’t make sense so I abandoned that. Yikes. I‘m not competent enough to gauge how bad this is but it’s unsettling. quote:Could you take a picture of what your rear hub looks like when you take it off the bike? Errrr, that’s the thing, I tried to take it off to fix a flat but it wouldn’t budge (I assumed my wench was too short, it was a pocket wench) and then took a closer look at the other side where I saw the coils. I fixed said flat without taking off the wheel so I can’t say. Probably gonna have to look up a different bike shop now, this is starting to sound bad lol
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Jun 2, 2022 22:12
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Are they just kind of jammed into the hollow in the axle or are they actually stuck in the threads?
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Jun 2, 2022 22:55
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I've got a pair of Deore XT 8020 pedals with about 4000 miles on them, and the left one has developed what I think is some play between the pedal body and axle. The pedal still spins beautifully smoothly but moves a tiny bit under load. It annoyingly manifests most obviously when spinning at higher cadences (90+) which feels like a slight clunk/click through the shoe at the same spot in a rhythmic pattern with the crank rotation. I can use my hand to put a load on the pedal back and forth and feel it move a bit, more so than the other side pedal, and I strongly suspect this to be the problem. Does that make sense? Little bit of searching seems to indicate that axle wobble isn't unheard of for Shimano pedals, and I guess there was a run of XTR pedals that was infamous for it? Trying to look up if it's easily fixable or not, and seems like some people have tried doing an entire pedal rebuild down to the bearings and been unsuccessful in fixing it. Am I better off just getting new ones? The clunking is driving me crazy. Edit: I found this Park Tool video and this looks pretty easy and is an excuse to buy more bike tools, I'll give this a shot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVmSrsnVUGI Guinness fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jun 3, 2022 |
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Jun 2, 2022 23:34
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bicievino posted:My general rule of thumb is after a second broken spoke, it means something was done wrong on the build, and it'll just keep happening until it's fully rebuilt. 
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Jun 3, 2022 01:15
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Guinness posted:I've got a pair of Deore XT 8020 pedals with about 4000 miles on them, and the left one has developed what I think is some play between the pedal body and axle. The pedal still spins beautifully smoothly but moves a tiny bit under load. It annoyingly manifests most obviously when spinning at higher cadences (90+) which feels like a slight clunk/click through the shoe at the same spot in a rhythmic pattern with the crank rotation. I can use my hand to put a load on the pedal back and forth and feel it move a bit, more so than the other side pedal, and I strongly suspect this to be the problem. Yeah you can just unscrew the pedal body and tighten up the bearing and add new grease, I have to do it all the time with my shimano pedals. Shimano has a special pedal grease that's expensive but I've used an assortment of other things. The locknuts are 10mm and 7mm and you need a really thin 10mm to be able to tighten them plus usually a vice and maybe some axle blocks for it to hold them.
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Jun 3, 2022 04:47
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So I gave it another shot with my tiny wrench and this time it worked! Scary but ok. This is babby’s first Carbon bike. The remaining coil just sorta fell off as I pulled the axle out? So anyway here are the pics, I put them in a gallery: https://imgur.com/a/arTAo3C Here’s the final pic with the axle back in sans coil: 
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Jun 3, 2022 09:55
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lol that coil thing is so stupid. just like you, i was sure i was missing something... "nah, that can't be a QR coil" 
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Jun 3, 2022 10:12
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Could it be something like the shop used a QR to work on it and then put back the original axle but the coils stuck? Just spitballing
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Jun 3, 2022 10:47
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