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regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

@ethanol:

I'm 5'6" and went with S2 and if forced to pick between s1 and s3 I would have gone s1.

I'd really try to go for S2 if possible.

E: but I have longish legs and a short torso so sizing down is better for me

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vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
At that height id start smaller probably 52-54. Ymmv.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

We need an inseam, not a height, in order to make informed reccos.

(But I think you'll be fine with an s3).

Since we're anecdoting, I'm 5'8" and went with an S4 because short legs long torso.

Killswitch
Feb 25, 2009
I need an ELO score before i can make a frame size recommendation

PoorPeteBest
Oct 13, 2005

We're not hitchhiking anymore! We're riding!
Just got back from 5 days in the Superior National Forest:



Wifi Toilet
Oct 1, 2004

Toilet Rascal

PoorPeteBest posted:

Just got back from 5 days in the Superior National Forest:

And you only took 2 pictures? :mad:

PoorPeteBest
Oct 13, 2005

We're not hitchhiking anymore! We're riding!

Wifi Toilet posted:

And you only took 2 pictures? :mad:

Oh, there are more:



ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



bicievino posted:

We need an inseam, not a height, in order to make informed reccos.

(But I think you'll be fine with an s3).

Since we're anecdoting, I'm 5'8" and went with an S4 because short legs long torso.

Sorry I thought I provided that.. shoving the book up my crotch as hard as a saddle measures 30.5-31. So total ~67", 30.5" inseam. Bottom of kneecap to floor is 18".

Again not asking for magic here, I know I need to get on the bike, but I appreciate everybody's advice!

ethanol fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jun 7, 2022

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

ethanol posted:

Sorry I thought I provided that.. shoving the book up my crotch as hard as a saddle measures 30.5-31. So total ~67", 30.5" inseam. Bottom of kneecap to floor is 18".

Again not asking for magic here, I know I need to get on the bike, but I appreciate everybody's advice!

Oh, snap, you did - my bad!

You sound right in the 'normal' proportion bell curve - congratulations! I'll reiterate that you're probably just fine on the s3 size.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

blk posted:

Sizing:
She's usually a runner but wants to ride more; 5'8 with long legs and and about 125 lbs. Guessing we should start with 56?

Usage:
She wants to do event rides and centuries with me, commute to work, maybe try gravel sometime, and definitely "be comfortable"

Maybe start smaller, all things considered. Like a 52, or 54 if that is too cramped. I'd go straight for a decent alloy frame gravel bike, like the Topstone, Checkpoint, Grail, Jari etc.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
you can compensate for a cramped reach somewhat with longboi stems and bars, there’s not much of anything you can do for seat tube height if it’s too high

signed,
short legged long armed ape

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

e.pilot posted:

you can compensate for a cramped reach somewhat with longboi stems and bars, there’s not much of anything you can do for seat tube height if it’s too high

signed,
short legged long armed ape

:wrong: you can get shorter cranks

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I don't think the seat tube will be too high, the difference there between the s2 and s3 on the specialized there is tiny, like 20 mm. I ran the geometry with my preferred saddle height (assuming it's not too different from other bikes) and I think I will still have full use of the dropper on the s3. Unless I have to spec the reach below the default s2, I should be able to shorten the stem by at least 20mm and maybe add a headtube spacer and it's going to be very close to the s2 in stock parts. That's not a whole lot of range to work with though so I'm really hoping they'll have an s2 to jump on for comparison.

regulargonzalez posted:

@ethanol:

I'm 5'6" and went with S2 and if forced to pick between s1 and s3 I would have gone s1.

I'd really try to go for S2 if possible.

E: but I have longish legs and a short torso so sizing down is better for me

Mind if I ask what is your inseam (using book firmly in crotch method) since you’re so close in height, but choosing to size down

ethanol fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 7, 2022

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
Just wanted to get some goon advice about lights (I read the thread until now to prevent reposts!). Just got back into after a bunch of years and bought a Canyon Grail and am regretting not spending more time biking. Having said that I live in a rural area with zero bike infrastructure and would like to remain visible. I picked up a Cygolight hotshot for rear light viz but was wondering if there's any consensus about front light recommendations for mixed gravel trail when dark/road visibility during the day? I was thinking about the Outbound Detour front light but am open to all suggestions.

Also, trying to find a bike computer because I keep fiddling with my phone and throwing it off my bike. Looks like Wahoo products have a lot of issues with reliability. From thread discussion Garmin 530 v. 830, just trying to follow routes, Strava and speed monitoring on a bike, would that be a good use case? Probably leaning towards the 530 cause $$$. Thanks!

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

adnam posted:

Just wanted to get some goon advice about lights (I read the thread until now to prevent reposts!). Just got back into after a bunch of years and bought a Canyon Grail and am regretting not spending more time biking. Having said that I live in a rural area with zero bike infrastructure and would like to remain visible. I picked up a Cygolight hotshot for rear light viz but was wondering if there's any consensus about front light recommendations for mixed gravel trail when dark/road visibility during the day? I was thinking about the Outbound Detour front light but am open to all suggestions.

Also, trying to find a bike computer because I keep fiddling with my phone and throwing it off my bike. Looks like Wahoo products have a lot of issues with reliability. From thread discussion Garmin 530 v. 830, just trying to follow routes, Strava and speed monitoring on a bike, would that be a good use case? Probably leaning towards the 530 cause $$$. Thanks!

The Bontrager Ion Pro RT is another great all-rounder. Might not have the widest beam pattern, but its real-world battery life and overall brightness is incredible. Plus it's actually available to buy.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Just rode an s3 alloy base. fit me like a glove. Was not nearly as much saddle to handlebar length as I thought. Did not even bother trying an s2. LBS said I have short legs long torso as well.

Feel a little bad though, I asked directly and they said they dont get as much margin cut when you choose shipping direct from specialized to store though. (50% what they normally make)z. Were really nice though and told me to keep the order though because the comp alloy is hard to get and a better bike. Also bought some pedals from them.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jun 7, 2022

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye

TobinHatesYou posted:

The Bontrager Ion Pro RT is another great all-rounder. Might not have the widest beam pattern, but its real-world battery life and overall brightness is incredible. Plus it's actually available to buy.

Bitchin thank you. In cockpit recommendations, I’m using a RoadRunner burrito bag and love it but want more structure. What’s the general opinion on the Routewerks (Routewerks.us) bag? Looks less like vaporware and actually been shipped also favorable reviews. Also open to other larger touring bags, but don’t have front fork bosses on my Grail

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



adnam posted:

Bitchin thank you. In cockpit recommendations, I’m using a RoadRunner burrito bag and love it but want more structure. What’s the general opinion on the Routewerks (Routewerks.us) bag? Looks less like vaporware and actually been shipped also favorable reviews. Also open to other larger touring bags, but don’t have front fork bosses on my Grail

I have a Routewerks bag. It’s ok.

Pros:
- Super easy to remove and install with the mount
- Integrated Garmin and light/bell mounts are nice and keep the cockpit decluttered
- Mostly has user serviceable bolts and such so you can actually repair it
- Decent size/storage overall

Cons:
- Quite heavy with the mount
- Base mount where the Barfly Garmin mount goes sheared off in the lid, the original was plastic but the replacement is all metal, so maybe they’ve fixed that in later batches
- Rattles quite a bit where the lid latches to the body, you can reduce this a bit but it’s mostly due to the design
- Too wide to fit the bag and a side mounted Cygolite Ranger on 38cm bars without rubbing my fingers
- $179 is massively overpriced for what it is

If I was buying something in that same vein today I’d just buy a Topeak Tourguide for $120 less. If it’s for bikepacking I wouldn’t buy either though. The Topeak has a lot of plastic and the Routewerks will rattle so much you’ll throw it into the forest.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice
I got a call my bike is ready :)

Apparently indeed the axel broke on me again, and it was a new axel! Like 3-4 weeks new!

MrL_JaKiri
Sep 23, 2003

A bracing glass of carrot juice!

Raenir Salazar posted:

I got a call my bike is ready :)

Apparently indeed the axel broke on me again, and it was a new axel! Like 3-4 weeks new!

A QR skewer? Buy better ones

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

MrL_JaKiri posted:

A QR skewer? Buy better ones

I think the very first time a few years back this was the case, then I got a more sturdy one I was told, but that broke on me a month ago, I assumed the replacement was the same but it also broke on me, I assume it was a solid one, but also was a different shop than the usual one. Its my usual shop again this time and usually they go above and beyond to consider things like durability, I'll check when I pick up my bike though.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Are you sure there’s not something going on in that axle? Seems weird to be regularly snapping QR skewers

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

bicievino posted:

:wrong: you can get shorter cranks
:aaaaa:

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I have a Routewerks bag. It’s ok.

Pros:
- Decent size/storage overall

Cons:
- Quite heavy with the mount

I would say it’s on the small side, and totally usable for some folks, but definitely heavy in that scenario.
Biggest pro is the release/mount mechanism.

I’d probably 100% prefer my Banjo Bros bag is the lid just hinged the right way, even without a GPS mount.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Are you sure there’s not something going on in that axle? Seems weird to be regularly snapping QR skewers

Dunno at the moment, I didn't ask over the phone, I'll inquire more when I get there.

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Are you sure there’s not something going on in that axle? Seems weird to be regularly snapping QR skewers

I broke an axle with QR three times on two different wheels and I am not the sendiest mountain biker by far

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
Finally getting a real bike fit this week and really hoping it helps with my nagging knee pain

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

BraveUlysses posted:

Finally getting a real bike fit this week and really hoping it helps with my nagging knee pain

Having gone through bad knee times I hope it does too :unsmith:. You may have built up some imbalances from whatever it causing it though, so might also be worth seeing a physiotherapist with experience of lower body injuries in younger people/athletes. If it doesn't go away after settling into the new position that is.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
I got a bike fit trying to fix knee pain, but it didn't help me. Hope it helps in your case.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice
So I'm looking to revisit getting some kind of security for my quick release seat post so I don't have to carry it with me to class (at work I can bring it into the building).

I was thinking a combination of steel security cable: https://www.amazon.ca/Schlage-999256-Flexible-7-Foot-0-375-Inch/dp/B000UD20NW/ref to look through the frame of the seat; albeit this won't stop someone with tools from slipping the seat off the pole and taking the pole.

I dunno if the clamp here: https://www.amazon.ca/GOMILE-4-Digit-Combination-Mountain-Bicycles/dp/B07TZJZKDD/ref is rated to secure the pole; or if it's just for carrying the steel loop on your bike.

Over at Canadian Amazon I'm looking into 'pinhead bike locking skewer set' https://www.amazon.ca/Pinhead-4-Pack-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer/dp/B001Y9X328/ref but I'm not sure how effective these are at stopping theft of the seat post; what stops someone from applying enough torque from slowly wiggling the bike post free from its slot? Or is that actually really hard?

Also I'd like to mark my bike post with some kind of marker or paint so I know where I set it to, tightening the clamp seemed to have helped a lot to keeping the post from sliding/wiggling loose when riding; but I want to be sure, especially if I go to the trouble to go back for a bike fitting to make sure the seat height is right for my knees.

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

Raenir Salazar posted:

So I'm looking to revisit getting some kind of security for my quick release seat post so I don't have to carry it with me to class (at work I can bring it into the building).

I was thinking a combination of steel security cable: https://www.amazon.ca/Schlage-999256-Flexible-7-Foot-0-375-Inch/dp/B000UD20NW/ref to look through the frame of the seat; albeit this won't stop someone with tools from slipping the seat off the pole and taking the pole.

I dunno if the clamp here: https://www.amazon.ca/GOMILE-4-Digit-Combination-Mountain-Bicycles/dp/B07TZJZKDD/ref is rated to secure the pole; or if it's just for carrying the steel loop on your bike.

Over at Canadian Amazon I'm looking into 'pinhead bike locking skewer set' https://www.amazon.ca/Pinhead-4-Pack-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer/dp/B001Y9X328/ref but I'm not sure how effective these are at stopping theft of the seat post; what stops someone from applying enough torque from slowly wiggling the bike post free from its slot? Or is that actually really hard?

Also I'd like to mark my bike post with some kind of marker or paint so I know where I set it to, tightening the clamp seemed to have helped a lot to keeping the post from sliding/wiggling loose when riding; but I want to be sure, especially if I go to the trouble to go back for a bike fitting to make sure the seat height is right for my knees.

I don't have any personal experience with Pinhead stuff, but my Chicago coworkers swear by their wheel nuts.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Are you sure there’s not something going on in that axle? Seems weird to be regularly snapping QR skewers

He's leaving them too loose and bending the axle IMO.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

i bent an axle once jumping off a muni platform onto street level, but that was on a lovely potmetal department store bike

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Axles breakage isn't uncommon on bikes with screw on freewheels. If you're getting multiple axles breaking on a wheel that takes a cassette, there is definitely something strange going on. Maybe dropouts out of alignment?

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

adnam posted:

Just wanted to get some goon advice about lights (I read the thread until now to prevent reposts!). Just got back into after a bunch of years and bought a Canyon Grail and am regretting not spending more time biking. Having said that I live in a rural area with zero bike infrastructure and would like to remain visible. I picked up a Cygolight hotshot for rear light viz but was wondering if there's any consensus about front light recommendations for mixed gravel trail when dark/road visibility during the day? I was thinking about the Outbound Detour front light but am open to all suggestions.

Also, trying to find a bike computer because I keep fiddling with my phone and throwing it off my bike. Looks like Wahoo products have a lot of issues with reliability. From thread discussion Garmin 530 v. 830, just trying to follow routes, Strava and speed monitoring on a bike, would that be a good use case? Probably leaning towards the 530 cause $$$. Thanks!

As someone already said, the Bontrager lights are great. I have an Ion Pro RT for a headlight and a Flare for a tail light.

I really like that they interface with my 530 too. The Ion will change the light mode based on the ambient lighting, so it’ll go from a blink mode to a steady mode if I’m riding through a dark area.

If you get a 530, I would not recommend upgrading the software to 9.40. They broke sensor connections somehow. Mine has about a 50% success rate of connecting to my sensors every time I turn it on.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Raenir Salazar posted:

what stops someone from applying enough torque from slowly wiggling the bike post free from its slot? Or is that actually really hard?
If you have it clamped tight enough that it doesn't slip under reasonably rough riding, it'd take a lot of force to budge. Rotating it might gouged the post a lot, and prying it might ovalize the seat tube. But of course a thief who only wants the saddle might be fine with damaging the frame.

quote:

Also I'd like to mark my bike post with some kind of marker or paint so I know where I set it to, tightening the clamp seemed to have helped a lot to keeping the post from sliding/wiggling loose when riding; but I want to be sure, especially if I go to the trouble to go back for a bike fitting to make sure the seat height is right for my knees.

2 things --
you could use a bit of scotch tape and tape it one tape's-width above the seat tube / clamp, so you can easily eyeball if it's slipped down.
you can also measure from the center of the cranks to the top of the saddle where you make contact:

And keep that measure for reference. In fact, it should have a specific relationship to your true inseam.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
Is your saddle made out of gold or what

God Hole
Mar 2, 2016

so I bought a new 105 crankset and the return window closed before I had the inclination to swap it out with my old one, when I realized I had mistakenly bought 175mm crank. I've only ever ridden 172.5mm

I figured 2.5mm prob isn't a big deal but some cursory internet research has informed me that actually this step up can be a Big Deal for a lot of people and longer cranks can be substantially harder on the knees. also now that I think about it, I'm currently right on the borderline of having my hips shift at the top of my pedal stroke. I probably have some slack to adjust other aspects of my fit to accommodate that though, if that's even applicable in this case.

right now the part is new, so Im wondering if it's worth it to find out if a 2.5mm longer crank will ruin my riding style or whether I should just immediately try to sell it for hopefully not too much of a loss. what's been some of your experiences changing/going up crank sizes?

if it matters, my particular use case is for daily riding of 10-20 miles, with the occasionally century here and there, in a hilly environment with a lot of steep grades

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Levitate posted:

Is your saddle made out of gold or what

When getting it stolen means being stuck 2 hours from home, yes.


kimbo305 posted:

2 things --
you could use a bit of scotch tape and tape it one tape's-width above the seat tube / clamp, so you can easily eyeball if it's slipped down.
you can also measure from the center of the cranks to the top of the saddle where you make contact:

And keep that measure for reference. In fact, it should have a specific relationship to your true inseam.

This is for after I figure out what the "proper fit" height for me is right?


TobinHatesYou posted:

He's leaving them too loose and bending the axle IMO.

I have no reason to ever loosen the bolt. Could it possibly have loosened on its own in a 2-3 week time period?

Either that, or a thief loosened the bolt sometime in the past month and I didn't notice at first that it was loose?

Or one of the times I brought it in to fix a flat on the rear tire it wasn't tightened enough.

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

quote:

Im wondering if it's worth it to find out if a 2.5mm longer crank will ruin my riding style or whether I should just immediately try to sell it for hopefully not too much of a loss. what's been some of your experiences changing/going up crank sizes?
I’d say I’m pretty sensitive to it, and 2.5mm is noticeable, especially riding back to back. And I appreciate 170 over 172.5, though jumping down to 165 is how I’m gonna be from here on out.

If you’re thinking of selling it used, it wouldn’t hurt to ride it once just to satisfy your curiosity.

I think it’s a shame the industry doesn’t normalize as much variation in crank length as handlebar width.

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