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Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

FBS posted:

Is there any chance I can get a tire shop to patch this, or should I just order a set of tires tonight?



Tread on all four is about 6/32nds so while they're not quite used up I guess it would make more sense to replace the entire set, yeah?

e:

I've gotten turned down from a similar repair in the past due to the puncture being too far out on the shoulder. But I don't know how strict the "average" shop is about that.

I will be shocked if you find a place that will touch that. With as close as it is to the tire edge, most places are just going to sell you new tires.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

TraderStav posted:

Update on the leak:

Got it looked at today. Virtually no fluid left in the transmission, leak coming from the transmission cooler. Interestingly enough, which is attached to the AC Condenser, a 2-in-1 solution. Last September, I had the condenser replaced so this is a 10 month old part.

:argh: FORD :argh:

They do the same poo poo on the Crown Victoria. Most cars have the transmission cooler as part of the radiator instead, which is much easier to swap out. I'd rather they be entirely separate, personally.

Hopefully no damage to the transmission.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

STR posted:

:argh: FORD :argh:

They do the same poo poo on the Crown Victoria. Most cars have the transmission cooler as part of the radiator instead, which is much easier to swap out. I'd rather they be entirely separate, personally.

Hopefully no damage to the transmission.

I think subaru does this also, 1/3 2/3 setups in the radiator. I could be misremembering but when I needed one for my 98 STI a lot of the ones from that period were split like that.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

STR posted:

:argh: FORD :argh:

They do the same poo poo on the Crown Victoria. Most cars have the transmission cooler as part of the radiator instead, which is much easier to swap out. I'd rather they be entirely separate, personally.

Hopefully no damage to the transmission.

Thanks, appreciate the well wishes on the transmission. Is it something detectable while they have it at the shop to see or is it a run it until it shows issues kind of thing? I really want them to be able to sort it all out while working the warranty piece.

Guy who did the diagnosis believes the issue is that one of the hose in the cooler (or to the cooler? Unclear to me) was installed too close to a bracket and had been running for a while to cause the leak. So installation error is his quick judgment.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I will be shocked if you find a place that will touch that. With as close as it is to the tire edge, most places are just going to sell you new tires.

This. Most every shop I see treats the entire outer treadblock as a no-go zone.

By all means ask but expect "new tire" for the answer.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

VelociBacon posted:

I think subaru does this also, 1/3 2/3 setups in the radiator. I could be misremembering but when I needed one for my 98 STI a lot of the ones from that period were split like that.

Pretty much everyone puts a transmission cooler in the radiator until you get into heavy duty stuff (you'll sometimes have a stand-alone cooler)

Except some Ford stuff. Ford puts the transmission cooler in the air conditioner condenser instead. :argh: So when it finally pops a leak, you have to recover the refrigerant, remove the transmission cooler lines, R&R the condenser AND radiator (since the condenser is blocked in by it), replace the condenser, put the radiator back in, replace the AC dryer and pull a vacuum, recharge the AC, and refill the cooling system.

When the cooler on mine leaks, I'm just going to hook up an external cooler and abandon the one built into the AC condenser. I'm not opening up a working AC system for that - I can put in a stand-alone cooler in an hour or so.

TraderStav posted:

Thanks, appreciate the well wishes on the transmission. Is it something detectable while they have it at the shop to see or is it a run it until it shows issues kind of thing? I really want them to be able to sort it all out while working the warranty piece.

Guy who did the diagnosis believes the issue is that one of the hose in the cooler (or to the cooler? Unclear to me) was installed too close to a bracket and had been running for a while to cause the leak. So installation error is his quick judgment.

Honestly, you won't know until it's filled back up. If it seemed like it was driving fine, you're probably okay. It may have had its life reduced a bit, or maybe not. :iiam: That fluid either has never been changed, or the transmission has been running pretty hot; if it's never been changed, fresh fluid should get it going again (I'd ask them to drop the pan and replace the filter as well, if it's possible on that transmission). If they changed the fluid with the condenser, and it's now that dark, I'd be worried.

If it was slipping at all, bring that up. And yeah, I'd expect a hose to fail before the cooler at this point - it's been long enough since they replaced the condenser that failure would be unlikely for a long time (usually if it was going to fail anytime soon, it would have been in the first few thousand miles).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jun 9, 2022

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
You might not save money running 87 vs premium but that depends on the car and your driving habits. You can do the math on the difference in mileage you get and the difference in price between 87 and 93 where you fill up. I had a truck that for reasons would get 1-2 mpg better burning mid grade so I saved a fraction of a cent burning mid grade, it also seemed to run smoother.

The only way to know is trying to go through a tank of each in similar circumstances but in my experience it's not worth it.

I burn premium (93 octane) in everything but my suburban and have to run octane boost in my Buell and KTM if it's above 90f to prevent pinging.

Edit, transmission talk: I've accidentally run a two speed powerglide nearly dry with no lasting effects but it also only sees about a thousand miles a year. I'm also pro separate transmission cooler, combining it with the AC seems like a terrible idea for reasons pointed out above.

SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Jun 9, 2022

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

STR posted:

Pretty much everyone puts a transmission cooler in the radiator until you get into heavy duty stuff (you'll sometimes have a stand-alone cooler)

Except some Ford stuff. Ford puts the transmission cooler in the air conditioner condenser instead. :argh: So when it finally pops a leak, you have to recover the refrigerant, remove the transmission cooler lines, R&R the condenser AND radiator (since the condenser is blocked in by it), replace the condenser, put the radiator back in, replace the AC dryer and pull a vacuum, recharge the AC, and refill the cooling system.

When the cooler on mine leaks, I'm just going to hook up an external cooler and abandon the one built into the AC condenser. I'm not opening up a working AC system for that - I can put in a stand-alone cooler in an hour or so.

Honestly, you won't know until it's filled back up. If it seemed like it was driving fine, you're probably okay. It may have had its life reduced a bit, or maybe not. :iiam: That fluid either has never been changed, or the transmission has been running pretty hot; if it's never been changed, fresh fluid should get it going again (I'd ask them to drop the pan and replace the filter as well, if it's possible on that transmission). If they changed the fluid with the condenser, and it's now that dark, I'd be worried.

If it was slipping at all, bring that up. And yeah, I'd expect a hose to fail before the cooler at this point - it's been long enough since they replaced the condenser that failure would be unlikely for a long time (usually if it was going to fail anytime soon, it would have been in the first few thousand miles).

There may have been some slight slipping leading up to this, but she's been running like a champ for quite a long time. A few days before I took it in I did notice a weird robotic sounding winding upward at low speed accelerations but nothing changed in performance. Crossing my fingers here that it turns out alright or they somehow get the rebuild covered under the warranty and get ahead of it.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I wouldn't count on the latter.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Me neither, and not just because it’s much more likely to be a remove and replace (with a salvage part) situation. I don’t know how common rebuilds are anymore honestly.

More on point, you will have to advocate for yourself, but if that transmission is damaged, it is worth going to bat for. Similar to the VW engine that got cooked, seeking out a lawyer might be wise. I would see how it drives after the initial repairs first though. Also, read up on the symptoms of a failing transmission now and have it checked out by a third party if you have even a shadow of a doubt. A failure will leave you stranded, and waiting makes it that much easier for the shop to chalk it up to other causes.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

What are the potential reasons I should not buy a 2008 Cayenne S for $4k aside from the obvious/probable “needs new engine”/“doesn’t run”? Don’t know anything else about it at the moment, just saw it for sale on the side of the road on the way into town and didn’t have time to stop, but $4k is well within impulse buy / bad idea / toy range for me right now. I’ll stop on the way back home to get more info but figured some background up front about specifics to look out for would be good

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Steve French posted:

What are the potential reasons I should not buy a 2008 Cayenne S for $4k aside from the obvious/probable “needs new engine”/“doesn’t run”? Don’t know anything else about it at the moment, just saw it for sale on the side of the road on the way into town and didn’t have time to stop, but $4k is well within impulse buy / bad idea / toy range for me right now. I’ll stop on the way back home to get more info but figured some background up front about specifics to look out for would be good

You need to know what options it has and what is wrong with it.

They are pretty decent vehicles, but options vary widely and repairs can be expensive because porsche. Well kept examples are absolutely worth buying. Something deep in maintenance debt will cost more to get out of maintenance debt than to find and buy a better example.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Steve French posted:

What are the potential reasons I should not buy a 2008 Cayenne S for $4k aside from the obvious/probable “needs new engine”/“doesn’t run”? Don’t know anything else about it at the moment, just saw it for sale on the side of the road on the way into town and didn’t have time to stop, but $4k is well within impulse buy / bad idea / toy range for me right now. I’ll stop on the way back home to get more info but figured some background up front about specifics to look out for would be good

If you have a limited budget I don't think you can afford to even maintain a 2008 Cayenne S let alone fix whatever might be wrong with it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I would start with a classic VW beetle and see how much money you pour into that thing, then attempt to restore a modern luxo-barge suv with blown motor

Usually when I'm joking about throwing away good money I talk about buying an off lease 7 series, never occurred to me to suggest to people they buy a 15 year old German SUV with blown motor :psyduck: apparently I need to recalibrate

Even if you manage to find a replacement engine for that thing, it won't be worth what you paid for it once it's running, not even counting your time

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I took the needing a new engine as sarcasm/if it does it's a definite do not buy, not as the known condition of the vehicle he's talking about.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






LS swap it OP

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

I took the needing a new engine as sarcasm/if it does it's a definite do not buy, not as the known condition of the vehicle he's talking about.

Yes, that was like, I know _some_ things about cars, have a project car currently, etc. That was my "short message while mountain biking" way not of saying "poo poo I need a cheap car here's one for $4k is this a good idea", but rather "hey this might be a fun adventure in car ownership, what are the specific things with this model I should be looking out for?"

Or alternatively just a Motronic bat signal because I knew he would have thoughts.

I'm not on a limited budget, not looking for a cheap reliable vehicle.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






Steve French posted:

I'm not on a limited budget, not looking for a cheap reliable vehicle.

Ok 2J swap it then

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Steve French posted:

Yes, that was like, I know _some_ things about cars, have a project car currently, etc. That was my "short message while mountain biking" way not of saying "poo poo I need a cheap car here's one for $4k is this a good idea", but rather "hey this might be a fun adventure in car ownership, what are the specific things with this model I should be looking out for?"

Or alternatively just a Motronic bat signal because I knew he would have thoughts.

I'm not on a limited budget, not looking for a cheap reliable vehicle.

You can check this to see what awaits you in the Cayenne future: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0kcysfA8n4

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Steve French posted:

Or alternatively just a Motronic bat signal because I knew he would have thoughts.

I think you should look at it, pick up the floor in the back and find the full option sticker (where the spare tire is) and take a picture to sort out what's supposed to be on this thing. Check for MFD stuff. Bring a code reader and use it. If it passes a sniff test get a PPI.

I also think the S's sound so much better than my turbo but I'm not gonna trade the power for sound :)

Edit:

mobby_6kl posted:

You can check this to see what awaits you in the Cayenne future: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0kcysfA8n4

When Hoovie says he has the dumbest automotive youtube channel you should believe it.

There are so many problems with this video.

Starting with "one of the problems are these coolant pipes right here that con rupture" as he's showing the fuel rail. The coolant pipe issue is under the intake, they are plastic, they are poo poo and any cayenne of this age this isn't already dead has had them replaced already. On the turbos you need to replace a couple of coolant t-ees as well.

Hoo boy, now I'm watching the whole thing.

They took out the driver seat out to replace the battery? Yes, it's under there. But the seat base that they left in place is hinged. There is no reason to take it out. This mechanic didn't even bother to check something as simple as an AllData procedure.

They keep trying to crank this thing and it's not turning over fast enough at all for it to fire, even if it's in otherwise good shape. They finally hook up a real battery charger to the posts under the hood and it starts cranking faster, but not fast enough to make the fuel pump run. Whatever fuel they got (from poking at the port I suppose) was because every time you open the driver side door the fuel pump primes. Yes, this too is stupid, but you need to know this poo poo if you're trying to fix something.

Then it stops cranking so they think the engine is locked up due to overheat? After seeing totally normal damage on coil packs that have been though like 12 revisions and never fixed for real (same as ford mod motor coil packs and many others....these are just consumables at this point).

Yeah, this is not information. It's "entertainment". Not a single person involved with that video had a single clue about what they were doing.


Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 9, 2022

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

I think you should look at it, pick up the floor in the back and find the full option sticker (where the spare tire is) and take a picture to sort out what's supposed to be on this thing. Check for MFD stuff. Bring a code reader and use it. If it passes a sniff test get a PPI.

I also think the S's sound so much better than my turbo but I'm not gonna trade the power for sound :)

Thanks, will do. I've texted the guy after taking a peek at the outside of it. Has 88k miles, and he'd stuck some estimates from a local shop I trust (same place that I have do work on my RS4) on the dash for fuel pump replacement and thermostat replacement. Assuming from what he's asking that it's work it needs, not work that's been done. Thermostat invoice clearly indicated the thermostat had failed, assuming but not positive the fuel pump(s) have already failed. We'll see what shakes out.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I forget who but someone in AI has one that's their tow and rally support vehicle and is a big fan of it.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

honda whisperer posted:

I forget who but someone in AI has one that's their tow and rally support vehicle and is a big fan of it.

It’s Motronic. It’s one hell of a life for a Cayenne too.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jun 10, 2022

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
There's another thread with a Cayenne I think would be good to link to but I cannot find it??
Edit: the current thread title is a pun about making a baby

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Kia Soul Enthusias posted:

There's another thread with a Cayenne I think would be good to link to but I cannot find it??
Edit: the current thread title is a pun about making a baby

bajaja has one doesnt he

e: oh i guess you figured that out from your edit

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
A V8 Cayenne is like my dream overland rig base car

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Raluek posted:

bajaja has one doesnt he

e: oh i guess you figured that out from your edit

I was going off memory but couldn't find the bookmark for some reason 🙃
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3830037

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Kia Soul Enthusias posted:

I was going off memory but couldn't find the bookmark for some reason 🙃
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3830037

Bajaha posted:

And got to visit the one I sold too quick



What kind of jack system is this, possibly pneumatic? Pros/cons?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






Hadlock posted:

What kind of jack system is this, possibly pneumatic? Pros/cons?

It's called quickjack and iirc they come in both pneumatic and electric e: actually just electric, they use a hydraulic pump.

spankmeister fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jun 10, 2022

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
I would say the big con is they come in specific sizes so they need to be matched to your vehicle.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


They do but really you can buy the one that'll fit your shortest car in the 5000lb version and be done with it. The 5000TL is their "most popular model" and what I have, I've lifted everything from the caterham to the highlander. Once you've used them a few times they take about the same amount of time to setup and use as you would with jack and jack stands. Anytime I'm doing something where I'll want more than two wheels off the ground I use mine.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Well, I'll probably swing over there later today to take a look at it. Seems the owner had some personal poo poo going on right when it needed some maintenance late last year and couldn't manage it, hence the price. They don't live here anymore and left the car and title with a friend of theirs. Working on arranging a PPI but in the meantime getting inside it to poke around will be good. Fully anticipating this would be a project, and if I actually follow through I promise I'll start a project thread or just throw content into the firebird thread I've already got going.

I don't know if there's a better VIN decoder for these but vinanalytics.com leads me to believe it does not have any of the drivetrain/suspension options (PDCC, offroad package/locking diff, or air suspension). It does have a trailer hitch (which was obvious) and a moon roof, and then a handful of interior/comfort options, but will check all that in person.

Sashimi
Dec 26, 2008


College Slice
General maintenance question. I've got a 2019 Fit with a CVT, around 70000km/43000mi. I'm getting a few days off work so I figure it's a good time to take it to a mechanic to get some work done. Brakes are feeling spongy so I'll get some new pads, but beyond that what else would be good to get checked for a car of this mileage?

Worth mentioning I've been keeping up with regular oil and filter changes, and tire rotations myself.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I noticed a significant chip in the paint on my front passenger A-pillar on my 2013 Taffeta White Honda civic LX. It shows bubbling down below sadly.

What do you do? Who do I take this to? Mechanic? Glass shop? Other? What's something like this cost to fix in big hand wavey orders of magnitude? Should I use my comprehensive coverage ($250 deductible)?


Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A body shop. And that's not an insurance event. It's not collision damage, it's not theft/hail/whatever damage, it's a maintenance issue. It would be like trying to claim a bad power steering pump on your car insurance.

How much to fix? Depends on how fixed you want it and where you take it. To fix it right you're looking at a minimum of pulling the windshield, which will probably break so replacement windshield ($300-500). Then depending on the body lines and the condition of the rest of the paint they'll have to figure out where to end the new paint or blend. You're probably looking at $500-800 minimum for this endeavor.

Or maybe you can find a place that will just clean it up and put some touch up paint on there nicely for a couple hundred bucks, deny every doing it, no warranty and only take cash.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
at that point couldn’t OP diy it with a touch up kit?

Doesn’t look to be any rusting on the panel. Just sand it back and hit it with the wee brush and the clearcoat?

Make sure to tape well over any glass.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Sashimi posted:

General maintenance question. I've got a 2019 Fit with a CVT, around 70000km/43000mi. I'm getting a few days off work so I figure it's a good time to take it to a mechanic to get some work done. Brakes are feeling spongy so I'll get some new pads, but beyond that what else would be good to get checked for a car of this mileage?

Worth mentioning I've been keeping up with regular oil and filter changes, and tire rotations myself.
Honda has kind of a unique approach to service intervals. I’m not a huge fan of it, but that’s beside the point. Here’s a link to what they’ve published: https://owners.honda.com/servicemaintenance/minder/?year=2019&model=Fit

For you specifically, it sounds like you should inspect your brakes and make any necessary repairs. Then probably do a brake fluid flush. An overall inspection of the suspension would be wise too. I’m not sure if you’re close or not on the CVT fluid, but your mechanic might be able to give you some idea when that item might come up.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

A body shop. And that's not an insurance event. It's not collision damage, it's not theft/hail/whatever damage, it's a maintenance issue. It would be like trying to claim a bad power steering pump on your car insurance.

How much to fix? Depends on how fixed you want it and where you take it. To fix it right you're looking at a minimum of pulling the windshield, which will probably break so replacement windshield ($300-500). Then depending on the body lines and the condition of the rest of the paint they'll have to figure out where to end the new paint or blend. You're probably looking at $500-800 minimum for this endeavor.

Or maybe you can find a place that will just clean it up and put some touch up paint on there nicely for a couple hundred bucks, deny every doing it, no warranty and only take cash.

A grand it is. Ugh. If it didn't extend down to the glass I would ponder a paint kit but I need to get that bubbling stuff gone to make sure there isn't anything hidden. I'm not worried about it blending well overall, I'll just stop it at the ridge there, I'm worried about stopping it from spreading. Thankfully it's taffeta white, as basic as they come.

I didn't suggest collision, I said comp, which covers many upsets that aren't the result of a collision. I believe I got a rock strike there during recent wind storms. :colbert: Either way I figured I would check. If it was magically capped at $250 out of pocket and state farm had to get the paint matched perfectly well that sounds like a good use of my money.

Thanks.

Ok Comboomer posted:

at that point couldn’t OP diy it with a touch up kit?
.

If it didn't extend down to basically touch the glass I would consider it.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jun 10, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

That is a little too much area in an irritating location to do a touch up kit imo. You'd have to start by sanding that and removing the paint that's not adhered to the underlying metal, I would think by the time you've done that you're looking at a lot more area to paint than you'd expect.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

That is a little too much area in an irritating location to do a touch up kit imo. You'd have to start by sanding that and removing the paint that's not adhered to the underlying metal, I would think by the time you've done that you're looking at a lot more area to paint than you'd expect.

If you zoom in you can probably see the 2x1" of bare metal is only about 1/2 to 1/3 of the visible damage. I'm sure once I start chipping off the unadhered paint and sanding to a clean margin I'm in for repainting at least 50% of the pillar. Not to mention I can't get a clean margin without the glass coming out.

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