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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I've read those are better for soft shackles, but I have no experience.

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Paulie
Jan 18, 2008


Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

^^^ Some sweet scenery you've got there.


Whats your (anyone's) opinions on "snatch wheels" vs regular snatch blocks?

Something like this: https://www.ledlyy.com/products/win...AiABEgIFC_D_BwE

Better? worse? I like the idea of lightweight gear, but I'm not an ultralight gear junkie type.

If you're running a synthetic winch line, I'd go with this: https://brennans-garage.com/collections/frontpage/products/snatch-ring-package Brennan's other stuff he makes is super rad also.

McDeth
Jan 12, 2005
Seems like any time tension goes out of your line you’re forced to re-rig it. Also I don’t know if I trust a manufacturer that can’t spell “Application” right on their marketing materials.

Paulie
Jan 18, 2008


McDeth posted:

Seems like any time tension goes out of your line you’re forced to re-rig it. Also I don’t know if I trust a manufacturer that can’t spell “Application” right on their marketing materials.

That's the purpose of the kit.

quote:

The first issue that needed to be overcome was what I call 'ring-tip'. The low friction ring will rotate with gravity and spit out the line if the tension in the system changes. In a perfect world and the parking lot this might not happen, but in the real world a winch recovery is rarely maintains consistent tension. It is important to have a way to keep the line locked into the ring as tension changes. I invented what I call the 'Anti-Tip Block' to solve this issue. This block is a small 3d printed device that uses a replaceable 3/4" wide velcro strap to keep keep the block from being able to rotate which can spit out the rope. The block also has the added benefits of separating the legs of the soft shackle to keep any wear even between them. The height of the block also helps eliminate any extra friction on the outside edges of the ring.

I'm not sure where you caught a typo but ok.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Paulie posted:

That's the purpose of the kit.

I'm not sure where you caught a typo but ok.

It was in one of the pics. I saw it too after it was mentioned. I didn't specifically mean one made by this company, that was just the first one I happened to copy and paste a link for. Though the anti tip thing seems pretty smart.

Paulie
Jan 18, 2008


Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

It was in one of the pics. I saw it too after it was mentioned. I didn't specifically mean one made by this company, that was just the first one I happened to copy and paste a link for.

Ahhh I see now

Arishtat
Jan 2, 2011

Splinter posted:

Yeah the wife of one of the fab guys supposedly is posting in that thread and said her husband hadn't even finished the Tacoma bumper design and didn't want to even have it released under EO branding. Sounds like they weren't happy either.

The shipping cost was suspect as they were flat fee $100 to ship anywhere in the US (and I'm on the west coast) whereas shops closer to me were quoting over $100 for shipping. And their base sale cost was also cheapest anywhere with their black friday sale. My total for HREW sliders with fill plate and no powder coat was $600 with shipping to California, which I believe was cheaper or at least similarly priced to any other option before shipping. Some other places I had looked maybe were that cheap when I first got my GX, but by the time I had ordered every other vendor on my list had already raised their prices significantly due to steel price increases. IIRC, other places were generally in the $800-1k+ range with shipping by that time.

So yeah, with that pricing, they were extremely popular, especially with very early customers & people that know them (not just you FogHelmut) saying they're good people and that their work was good.

"Where are our order" threads would pop up every few weeks on GXOR, and we were theorizing that the fact they were continuing to take new orders, run sales and quote impossible lead times indicated they had cash flow issues and that they needed the money from the new orders to try to complete the existing orders. Seems like that was correct. For a while the way to get your order seemed to be to dispute the charge, then all of the sudden your order was the next one out, but sounds like the past month or two they were too backed up for that to even get it done.

Yeah I saw him tagged in multiple GXOR threads of the past few months and he never responded (and he is, or was at the time, a member of the GXOR group). Meanwhile he was supposedly very active on Facebook in the North East Overlanders group or whatever it's called, so it's not like he wasn't seeing the GXOR notifications. Also apparently they were posting about wheeling every weekend throughout most of this. Not saying they should be working 7 days a week even given the situation, but still not the best look to be semi-publicly posting about doing fun poo poo regularly while you have many unhappy customers that you can't even bother to provide an update to.

On my end I don't think there's much to do but wait to see what happens with the PayPal dispute. It sounds like they're not ever responding to them anymore so I should "win", but as has been mentioned it's not like they have the money anymore. I think PayPal might still refund due to their Purchase Protection regardless, but I'm not 100% sure how that works. That's my hope at least. If that's the case I'm sure they'll be dealing with at least 6 figures of dispute payouts, which might be enough to get their lawyers involved to try to recoup what they can rather than just writing it all off. No idea though.

I'm in the same boat, ordered a bumper last fall with an estimated lead time of 10-12 weeks. At the time I was like, "cool, so we'll set up an installation appointment in like Mar/Apr." Then I kinda forgot about it until my calendar reminded me to contact them and...nothing. It's lovely because I chose them not only for the price but because I grew up in that area and want to support a local business and when I visited their shop they seemed to have their poo poo together. Now I'm just going to let PayPal deal with them and if PayPal can't I'll sic my CC issuer on the case.

FYI NE Overlanders is (was?) run by Derek as a means to generate interest and therefore business.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Lmao saw this for sale https://www.instagram.com/p/CemZg-XP-Ol/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Something did ship.






Anyone using GMRS? Or something else?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Been reading around and trying to learn some poo poo about recovery techniques.

Came across this video. It might be old news to some of you as its 10+ years old

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8lMxYnGIrw

Its a good example of don't do this poo poo

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Hi friends. It's new tires time for my 2008 tundra. I'm thinking it might also be the summer of new wheels? But I don't know anything about wheels. It's on the original 18" wheels, and they are pretty beat up. It's been pretty difficult to find useful information about aftermarket wheels from a performance perspective - it seems like, at a given size, it's entirely a question of aesthetics? What am I missing here. How do I pick out wheels??

Tire wise I'm thinking a stock-sized A/T will suit my needs - mostly highway, offroading is predominantly lovely forest service roads.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Wheel performance comes from weighing less generally. Typically people get new wheels to look cool, but also to offset some of the weight of their giant tires. Lower unsprung weight improves acceleration, braking, and suspension performance. It can effect MPG to some extent. Lower weight will require less power for acceleration. There's a formula out there that says X wheel/tire weight is = to Y load the vehicle is carrying in terms of power needed for acceleration, but I don't recall what it is. You are more likely to see this effect in city mileage. As an example, I lost about 1 mpg overall going up to a 5% larger diameter tire at 8 lbs heavier per tire. Originally Goodyear Wrangler AT P255/65R17 to BFG KO2 LT265/70R17 C-load. Some of this could be due to the more aggressive tread design, but the weight difference is noticeable on acceleration.

Also there's wheel offset, which can help you fit the larger tires by moving their position outward from the hub, or just look cool with your wheels sticking out a few inches wider than your fenders. Some people use spacers to achieve this effect. It would be better to get a rim with proper offset than to use spacers, though some will claim spacers are fine (they're not fine.)

I don't know enough about beadlocks to speak on them in an capacity, other than they're for people with huge tires that like to air down to single digit pressures.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jun 13, 2022

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


Where are you located? First place I'd start is by looking for wheels with 6x5.5 or 6x139.7 for a bolt pattern on Craigslist/Marketplace/Offerup etc. Then just skim the wheels to see what different Toyota & Lexus options pop up. There are generally plenty of different Tacoma & 4Runner take offs that you can throw a coat of paint on and have a nice OEM+ update.


the 4Runner Limited 18s I plasti dipped w/ a "gold" metalizer finish. Not a big fan of the finish TBH. Forgot to take the factory lug bolts with me when I ran out to my buddy's shop to get them mounted so I couldn't swap them over anyway.

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.
Blame the lack of coffee, but I stared at that pic for at least a minute thinking you had dualies on the front axle. And the scary part was, I was like "oh, I guess that's a thing now".

Vampire Panties
Apr 18, 2001
nposter
Nap Ghost

FogHelmut posted:

Wheel performance comes from weighing less generally. Typically people get new wheels to look cool, but also to offset some of the weight of their giant tires. Lower unsprung weight improves acceleration, braking, and suspension performance. It can effect MPG to some extent. Lower weight will require less power for acceleration. There's a formula out there that says X wheel/tire weight is = to Y load the vehicle is carrying in terms of power needed for acceleration, but I don't recall what it is. You are more likely to see this effect in city mileage. As an example, I lost about 1 mpg overall going up to a 5% larger diameter tire at 8 lbs heavier per tire. Originally Goodyear Wrangler AT P255/65R17 to BFG KO2 LT265/70R17 C-load. Some of this could be due to the more aggressive tread design, but the weight difference is noticeable on acceleration.

Also there's wheel offset, which can help you fit the larger tires by moving their position outward from the hub, or just look cool with your wheels sticking out a few inches wider than your fenders. Some people use spacers to achieve this effect. It would be better to get a rim with proper offset than to use spacers, though some will claim spacers are fine (they're not fine.)

I don't know enough about beadlocks to speak on them in an capacity, other than they're for people with huge tires that like to air down to single digit pressures.

:haibrower:

Beadlocks are exactly what the name says - they're a outer metal lip that bolts to the wheel to lock the bead of the tire to the wheel, so you can air down to 0 psi and not throw the tire off the wheel. This is almost exclusively for hardcore rock crawling, and IIRC actual beadlocks are DOT illegal, because the beadlock bolts can snap and the tire will explosively decompress? I don't know if thats actually true, but for what its worth the vast majority of wheels are faux beadlocks anyway.

EDIT

One thing to look for on wheels is construction type. Steelies will be strongest & heaviest, forged alloy will be the most prevalent, and flow-formed will be the lightest & strongest (but probably the most expensive as well).

Vampire Panties fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Jun 14, 2022

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Vampire Panties posted:

:haibrower:

Beadlocks are exactly what the name says - they're a outer metal lip that bolts to the wheel to lock the bead of the tire to the wheel, so you can air down to 0 psi and not throw the tire off the wheel. This is almost exclusively for hardcore rock crawling, and IIRC actual beadlocks are DOT illegal, because the beadlock bolts can snap and the tire will explosively decompress? I don't know if thats actually true, but for what its worth the vast majority of wheels are faux beadlocks anyway.

I've heard the same thing re: lack of DOT approval, but I've never heard of anyone actually getting hassled over them. However, most tire shops won't touch a true beadlock rim so plan on mounting it yourself if you go that route.

As far as wheels, offset (and the PO doing it first) is the only reason I have aftermarket wheels on my TJ. I actually rather like the look of some of the OEM wheels they offered, but they were long gone in favor of some garbage Dick Cepek DC2s before I bought it... and none of them have enough offset to run a 33x12.5 without massively rubbing on the control arms.

Wistful of Dollars
Aug 25, 2009


As the lord intended

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Found a place that sounds more interested than most of the other places have about selling me a set of mounting plates so I can make my own "rock sliders***".

Hopefully they don't want too much for them, and that shipping doesn't kill me.

*** They'll probably function more as step bars than actual sliders, but I like to weld so it'll be fun at least. And hopefully they'll actually give me some protection while they're at it.

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?

IOwnCalculus posted:

I've heard the same thing re: lack of DOT approval, but I've never heard of anyone actually getting hassled over them.

DOT probably doesn't have any commentary on beadlocks officially other than it should be safe for the driving public. Small off-road garages without product liability insurance or an engineering team are doing one-off batches of wheels and they cover their rear end by saying things like "for off-road or race use only" hoping that dodges a lawsuit.

https://www.hutchinsoninc.com/rock-monster-internal-double-beadlock-system/

Hutchinson makes the global standard beadlock/runflat wheels for all sorts of commercial/oem applications from construction to military to OEM. If you want a "DOT legal" double beadlock wheel for your vehicle they got you covered. They sell them under the Rock Monster brand and they should have sizes for most 4x4 platforms. Most famously they are the OEM for the military wheels and the Hummer H1 and the H3 [with the beadlock option].

The wheels are generally around 400-500$/each. The Rock monsters come with an inner beadlock ring as well, and they're a lot easier to deal with than say the runflats on the military models.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

IOwnCalculus posted:

I've heard the same thing re: lack of DOT approval, but I've never heard of anyone actually getting hassled over them. However, most tire shops won't touch a true beadlock rim so plan on mounting it yourself if you go that route.


Its possible to find certified beadlocks. expect to spend.
https://www.dbldesign.com/wheels
(good enough for earthroamer and first response vehicles)

Vampire Panties
Apr 18, 2001
nposter
Nap Ghost

Big K of Justice posted:

DOT probably doesn't have any commentary on beadlocks officially other than it should be safe for the driving public. Small off-road garages without product liability insurance or an engineering team are doing one-off batches of wheels and they cover their rear end by saying things like "for off-road or race use only" hoping that dodges a lawsuit.

https://www.hutchinsoninc.com/rock-monster-internal-double-beadlock-system/

Hutchinson makes the global standard beadlock/runflat wheels for all sorts of commercial/oem applications from construction to military to OEM. If you want a "DOT legal" double beadlock wheel for your vehicle they got you covered. They sell them under the Rock Monster brand and they should have sizes for most 4x4 platforms. Most famously they are the OEM for the military wheels and the Hummer H1 and the H3 [with the beadlock option].

The wheels are generally around 400-500$/each. The Rock monsters come with an inner beadlock ring as well, and they're a lot easier to deal with than say the runflats on the military models.

:hmmyes: I dont have personal experience with internal beadlocks, but my extreme-wheeling buddy swore by them. As you pointed out they're crazy expensive, but if I were to do an around-the-world trip those would be my number 1 must-have.

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?

Vampire Panties posted:

:hmmyes: I dont have personal experience with internal beadlocks, but my extreme-wheeling buddy swore by them. As you pointed out they're crazy expensive, but if I were to do an around-the-world trip those would be my number 1 must-have.

The Hutchinson ones are fine, they are just rubber/composite rings that can just slip in. The guys who take the surplus HMMWV wheels and pull the runflats out and replace them with PVC beadlocks.. well.. those i'm not a fan of. They're cheap but not meant for that application they'll crack in cold weather with the forces involved.

Some Hummer guys toss the internal runflat/beadlocks or they switch to just the internal beadlocks. I was hoping the military would switch to 17-18" wheels for the HMMWV but it looks like someone greased the wheels somewhere for goodyear to keep making its only 16.5" tire, the Enforcer MT at $800 a pop :v: Everything else seems to be on truck sized 22" wheels for all the other wheeled vehicles like mraps/jltv/etc.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

Finally got to go on a trip that was first cancelled by COVID19 in the spring of 2020, and then cancelled again by unseasonably cold weather the week we had chosen in late spring 2021. The gods finally acquiesced last month, and my buddy and I were able to go check out the Racetrack in DVNP as well as a few surrounding spots - the Lost Burro Mine, and Hunter Mountain region at the far south end of the park. Bunch of photos in a gallery here. Was a rad trip, and I managed to crack one of my alloys somehow!



IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That looks loving awesome.

Wistful of Dollars
Aug 25, 2009

“Keep out” looks more like an invitation than a warning.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Wistful of Dollars posted:

“Keep out” looks more like an invitation than a warning.

gently caress. THAT. I wouldn't go in an abandoned mine if my life depended on it (although, it's likely your life depends on not going in there...).

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Having just watched The Descent, yeah, miss me with that poo poo.

(That and several YouTube videos on the dangers of entering old mines with old wooden cribbing in unknown partially decayed condition.)

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

They wouldn't have put up the sign if there wasn't cool or valuable stuff inside

source: I live around a bunch of abandoned mines and they are typically unmarked (and also death traps)

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Yesterday I volunteered to help with logistics for a running race on a local ski hill, and ended up shuttling people up and down the mountain on private roads I've always wanted to drive on.

Unfortunately lingering snow prevented me from going all the way up to the summit in the background, which I'm sure the folks I was driving up would have appreciated.



There was also an active construction project going, putting in a new lift, so I had to deal with the possibility of running into this guy head on, but fortunately only ended up stuck behind him.



Nothing terribly challenging driving wise, but for sure parts of it were a lot steeper and narrower feeling to drive on with some rockier bits than I had remembered from hiking there in the summer in years past.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

chrisgt posted:

gently caress. THAT. I wouldn't go in an abandoned mine if my life depended on it (although, it's likely your life depends on not going in there...).

kastein posted:

Having just watched The Descent, yeah, miss me with that poo poo.

(That and several YouTube videos on the dangers of entering old mines with old wooden cribbing in unknown partially decayed condition.)

Going into old abandoned mines is stupid and very dangerous - I do not recommend it to anyone. It's also very fascinating, and thankfully being stupid isn't illegal yet (even in California). I only check out adits if they're clearly traveled/have recent footprints and have little to no shoring or reinforcements. As soon as the floor starts getting shady with obvious backfills or wood structure, if the shaft starts branching out a bunch of different ways, or if the air gets stale then I'm turning right back around towards the light. It's still dumb, but I've been in a bunch of them at this point and they're pretty predictable. You really need to be cautious on the exterior areas: as an example, we were walking around outside the Burro mine on the terraces - as usual, there was a ton of old sheet metal laying everywhere and I did my usual foot-tap on one peice to check for rattlesnakes or hollow sound. It flexed back, so I flipped it up and sure enough there was a deep shaft beneath it:



My buddy threw a few rocks down as pictured, and yeah that'll gently caress your day up. Just a casual death-pit hiding underneath a bit of rubble.


Wistful of Dollars posted:

“Keep out” looks more like an invitation than a warning.

taqueso posted:

They wouldn't have put up the sign if there wasn't cool or valuable stuff inside

source: I live around a bunch of abandoned mines and they are typically unmarked (and also death traps)

still hoping to find my first leaky old box of unstable nitroglycerine sticks ftw

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


pretty in depth & nerdy article on the development of the Bronco Raptor

https://www.theautopian.com/how-ford-engineered-the-2022-ford-bronco-raptor-to-be-a-ridiculously-hardcore-purpose-built-off-road-monster/


holy gently caress that truck

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Yeah it's nuts. Everyone has been talking about Raptors and Baja, but they definitely benchmarked King of the Hammers.

Vampire Panties
Apr 18, 2001
nposter
Nap Ghost

FogHelmut posted:

Yeah it's nuts. Everyone has been talking about Raptors and Baja, but they definitely benchmarked King of the Hammers.

:haibrow: 100%. My extreme wheeling buddy had a similar cantilever suspension setup on his :homebrew:JKU:homebrew: that was built for the Hammers. There's a few companies that make similar aftermarket kits for the Raptor truck, although I'm surprised Ford is giving it from the factory. Thats going to be one spicy & pricey Bronco.... for that kind of money, I'd want some sort of hybrid system like the new Tundra, although I'm extremely curious how they expect to meet EPA SUV requirements with factory 37s :thunk:

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Vampire Panties posted:

:haibrow: 100%. My extreme wheeling buddy had a similar cantilever suspension setup on his :homebrew:JKU:homebrew: that was built for the Hammers. There's a few companies that make similar aftermarket kits for the Raptor truck, although I'm surprised Ford is giving it from the factory. Thats going to be one spicy & pricey Bronco.... for that kind of money, I'd want some sort of hybrid system like the new Tundra, although I'm extremely curious how they expect to meet EPA SUV requirements with factory 37s :thunk:

$63k for a Sasquatch package, $80k for Raptor. Base model $31k.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vriuen8ynlM

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?

Vampire Panties posted:

Thats going to be one spicy & pricey Bronco.... for that kind of money, I'd want some sort of hybrid system like the new Tundra, although I'm extremely curious how they expect to meet EPA SUV requirements with factory 37s :thunk:

Do what they did with the H1 and sell it as a Class III truck. :v:

If anyone wants to explore an SW mine safely, I can recommend the Burro Schmidt Tunnel. About a half-mile long with a slight bend halfway through it, it's open to the public and the other side has a nice view o the desert. It's extremely stable and a nice place to cool off. Only thing is, you can walk upright through the first half, but as the guy got older and farther along I guess he didn't keep the height consistent or old age took its tool, you have to crouch a bit. It's made out of solid granite so no cave in risk. Only danger is a possible trip hazard in some parts.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burro_Schmidt_Tunnel

Coming in from the eastern trails is relatively tame, Last Chance Canyon Road is a fun trail but, I've seen a few disabled vehicles that shouldn't have been on that trail. I think the BLM is trying to get people to Divert part way up the trail onto Pleasant Valley Road compared to going up the old trail which has one way/u-turn signs on one side but not the other so I'm not sure if they are trying to phase out the rock garden part of it... I'll have to check with the BLM the next time I'm in the area.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
I have a deposit on a 2022 Tacoma TRD Off Road that I should have in 3-4 weeks and my kid is old enough that we can finally dip our toes back into some light camping trips when it cools back down here in FL. :getin:

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.
As someone who spent about half their life in FL, please let me know about this new, mythical "cool" Florida weather.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
Anything below 85 or so and not :supaburn:

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I hear that there's a nice few seconds after the mid-day downpour before the sun comes back out and the rainwater evaporates, raising the humidity from 95% back to 100%.

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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

In Big Bear this weekend - which is a stupid thing to do because it's a holiday weekend, but we brought all of our food and have no reason to go into town.

Took 2N10 to Sugarloaf Truck Trail to Radford Camp Road down to Converse Fire Station. Radford Camp Road is pretty rocky and steep descent, but completely doable without any type of crazy vehicle. There are great views all the way down. Near the bottom it smooths out and is flat sand. Converse Road 1N04 is a really nice ride.

Going back up Clark's Grade is mostly smooth sand, but is a very steep ascent. I'd recommend low range. There are a lot of boulders and trees in the road that are pushed off to the side and there is enough room but they really should be cleared. A lot of it is very narrow and vegetated. I was hitting my mirrors on both sides in my Colorado. I can't imagine a full-size truck would get through unscathed. Luckily we did not see anyone else on the trail besides the occasional mountain biker and one or two dirt bikes. There are a few streams that you cross, which right now are barely a trickle, but I can imagine would be legit water crossings in the spring.

Back up at Skyline Drive 2N10, there was a lot of traffic with all of the campers in the area. We pulled off Mill Creek Road by Kidd Creek and found a flat spot in the shade to set up for lunch. Took the neighborhood streets back through town because Big Bear Boulevard is complete gridlock.

I had my BFG KO2s at 20 psi and they performed flawlessly. I hate these ICON control arms because they're exceptionally greased with Superlube, but creak constantly.





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