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Apologies for the new thread, I couldn't find a coin collecting thread. I am finally taking the time to go through my FIL's old collection with the intention of selling it off on ebay. Here is what I have for silver dollars: The issue is I am not finding any Whitman collections on Ebay. Does this mean I should take them out of the books? For the lower value coins it seems like they are worth more in the books. I also have a bunch of other books. If anyone is interested in these things PM me and maybe we can work out a deal. I also have some silver dimes/quarters/half dollars that are just loose along with a few other loose silver dollars.
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# ? Apr 6, 2021 15:35 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 17:04 |
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I'd assume that because condition matters so much in coin collecting and that the reverse isn't viewable in a book, that most serious collections will not be a book and instead by in something where you can see all faces and sides of the coin.
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# ? Apr 6, 2021 18:46 |
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n8r posted:Apologies for the new thread, I couldn't find a coin collecting thread. Hi, I actually work for a coin broker. Your best bet is to get a copy of the red book, and see what they are valued at there. If you want to actually get them graded, NGC and PCGH are the way to go. Otherwise your best bet is either ebay or a coin show near you. I also looked for a coins thread, and wasn't able to find one.
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# ? Dec 8, 2021 16:44 |
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There's a coin thread but it moves pretty slowly. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3706376&pagenumber=12&perpage=40
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# ? Dec 24, 2021 07:16 |
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Heritage Auctions deals with a lot of coins. You can reach out to their coin consignment guy and he can tell you if you have anything with selling. If you do they'll front all the grading fees and whatnot. I've been dealing with them for my dad/uncle's silver age comics and they've been great to work with.
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# ? Jan 5, 2022 15:41 |
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I'd suggest popping each on out and selling the dollars and half dollars individually on eBay using 10-day auctions scheduled for Thursday evening at $0.01 and no reserve. It is pretty quick to do this with the eBay app. You can list one every 3 minutes or so including cropping. Coin grading company PCGS has this helpful set of pictures (link:https://www.pcgs.com/photograde) to allow you to estimate the grade of each one, which you will want to put in the title and description. You'll only need the "category" of grade, for example, "Very Fine (VF)". Just take good pics of each one front and back, schedule them all for one Thursday and you'll make a tidy sum with a couple hours work.
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# ? Jan 7, 2022 02:18 |
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For how much over metal price do these sell, roughly?
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# ? Jan 12, 2022 02:31 |
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It depends on condition, year, mint mark, rarity, etc. Some qualities objective and some subjective. Anywhere from 0% above melt value to a million percent.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 03:36 |
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Gin posted:It depends on condition, year, mint mark, rarity, etc. We have an Indian head penny at my work listed for like ten thousand dollars
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# ? Feb 4, 2022 07:26 |
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I recently sold a bunch of similar dollars from an elderly relative who died. Ditch the books, no one cares about them. Buy some coin sleeves to put the coins in. Photograph them before doing so. Look up some coin grading guides online and make your own best guess. Put that in the auction title along with the year and mint code. Add some keywords, like: Morgan Silver Dollar 1884 D - VF/EF - bullion I also like to stick a reference number in the title of my auction that I can cross-reference with the coins. Something like #00345 (even if it's your very first coin, don't start at 1) just so you don't gently caress up and ship the wrong coin. Throw it up starting at a penny. You will get WAY more traction. The ones that I started at spot value generally sold a bit over spot, while I got stupid money from the ones starting at a penny. Most sold for roughly what the various value guides said they should go for. Specify that the bidder is to pay shipping, but also specify USPS first class. Make sure to select their option for tracking. Send it adult signature required - this saved my rear end when a package either got stolen or the buyer lied about it to scam me. IIRC my usual cost for shipping one coin was about $4. Stick some boilerplate in your auction description about how it has not been professionally graded etc. Mark it as used, no returns. edit: ballpark you've got something like ~$700 worth of coins there. Call it $650 after paying for your shipping materials and some coin sleeves etc. Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Feb 8, 2022 |
# ? Feb 8, 2022 18:45 |
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Seconding the reference number for your items. It's very easy to get things mixed up. I sell a lot of cards online. Like coins there can be very small differences between coin A with $5, and coin B worth $500. After I list each card I package it up for shipping, and write the auction ID on the front
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# ? Apr 9, 2022 05:11 |
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My stepdad passed away last year in his sleep and one thing he did thirteen years ago was tell mom "if I die suddenly without notice, go in my bedroom, dig [under a specific pile in his hoarder house] in the corner of the room, find the box under there, take the box." we were cleaning out the house to find stuff to donate and we made our way over to said pile, and sure enough, under it was a box. in the box was a variety of solid gold items including an 18k gold swiss pocket watch, antique gold fountain pens from the 1800s I think, gold hat pins with gemstones in them, a nearly 8oz silver ingot, and a box jam packed full of a huge coin collection including rolls of silver coins. we also found, while meticulously digging through everything in the house looking for anything salvageable to donate, nearly 100lbs of loose change and random old coins, including some graded ones that had just been...tossed into piles of stuff and buried over the years. mostly morgan silver dollars like in the OP. I've already sold a bunch of them for anywhere from 75-300 dollars each, and recently took the rest of it to my uncle who used to run an auction house to help figure stuff out a bit. the box is a lot emptier in the below photos than initially, but there's still a shitload of sleeved coins(mostly indian head pennies I think in the green paper sleeves, mostly 1800s coins in very nice shape in the non-paper sleeves) and other stuff. I sorted out the non-graded Morgan silver dollars, and there's about 65 of them, mostly in paper-plastic sleeves with potential grades listed on them(which I don't take as gospel, but they're mostly really nice condition). There's an upcoming coin show that I want to go to, and ANACS is showing up and apparently offering grading services on site, they're one of the reputable ones that ebay allows graded listings for. Should I go there and get a bunch of these graded there? thinking of just having the entire pile of morgan dollars slabbed, I think ANACS offers, or did at a coin show I barely missed, a "10 coins graded for $140" service, so if they offer that here, should I just do that a whole bunch for a lot of these? This was basically my first incident of dealing with coins as a collectible, so I'm still pretty unfamiliar with stuff besides the slabbed stuff which is easily searchable by the info on the slab.
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# ? Jun 18, 2022 07:09 |
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Just saw this. Don't bother getting a bunch of random silver dollars slabbed. It will cost you money and do just about gently caress all for the sale price. There are a bunch of coin valuation books and websites out there that will give you a ballpark value for your coins. Here's a good starting one The important info for a coin is year, mint, and condition. Example: AU 1890 O Morgan Dollar That would be a coin minted in 1890 at the New Orleans mint in About Uncirculated (i.e. very very good) condition. Here's the page on it from the above site According to that webpage you're looking at ballpark $55-60 for a 1890 O in AU. How to tell the mint? On the morgan there's a small letter (or none) on the back side under the eagle's feathers roughly between the D and O in "Dollar." The codes are as follows: Blank - Philadelphia. Note that this is denoted with a "P" even though it's blank. So 1890 and no letter = 1890 P when you're listing S - San Francisco O - New Orleans CC - Carson City Philadelphia is by far the most common, Carson City the rarest. If you happen to have a CC coin of any year or condition it's worth a few bucks. If it's high condition it's worth a lot of bucks. How to tell the condition? There are basic hallmarks like how much certain fine details - the cheekbones on the head, the feathers on the eagle etc - are worn. Here's a website I used when I was unloading a bunch of Morgans. This isn't science, it's all subjective. At the end of the day even the slab guys are basically just giving their opinion and some nice packaging. That said, it's pretty easy to sort these on a continuum. What I would do is pick the high end and the low end of what the coin looked like and split the difference. So I'd sell something as "1890 O Morgan EF/AU" and provide a ton of detailed pictures so people could make their own call. My advice? Go through the coins and give them ballpark grades. Sticky notes are good for this. Then write down all the combos of year, mint, and condition and look up the prices on that website. If you find anything that's worth significant money (say, more than $200) then it might be worthwhile to get a bunch of them slabbed. Otherwise, just buy some coin sleeves and huck them on ebay. In my experience good photos, a good description, an auction title that lays out the particulars clearly, and a penny start yields the best result. I ran a bunch with and without penny starts and they always got more traction, more bids, and went for a higher final price. THe only real exception would be if you have something worth serious money, but for your typical F/VF 1921 P that's going to go for ~$20-30 a penny is the way to go.
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# ? Jun 23, 2022 01:25 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Don't bother getting a bunch of random silver dollars slabbed. It will cost you money and do just about gently caress all for the sale price. It cost me ten dollars per coin to get all 68 slabbed, and 40 bucks for a "cleaning" fee to have up to 20 coins, at ANACS's discretion, carefully cleaned if they think it will improve the grade. a few of the more notable coins were kinda dingy or grungy, so I went for it. all that plus shipping came out to about $770. not too shabby for 68 noteworthy coins graded. But if I can get the rest of the morgans graded at 10 bucks a coin, I think I'll do it. I'll be able to get probably like 30-40 bucks a coin unslabbed, but every single morgan similar to these bulk morgans that I've sold that graded decently without any special modifiers still sold for 90+ bucks, so I think it's worth it at that low price per grading. and even in the morgans he turned away, there's some with some very nice or at least interesting toning, so if nothing else I'd spring for those since some of the weirdly toned coins I've sold have gone for far more than I thought they would. apologies for the shaky handwriting, I took my dad to the coin show for father's day since he loves coins, and he offered to write down the coin info while I swapped the various coins out of whatever holder they were in into the flips that ANACS wanted them in. he is...very shaky these days, but it's still relatively legible. There were a few coins we had graded that some onlookers, upon the ANACS rep reading the coin and type aloud for writing down, murmured "holy poo poo", so I'm curious if you can pick out which ones those were because I forget which. Towards the end, I remarked I was hoping to put these sales towards new siding for my house, and the guy behind me said I was well on my way there based on what he heard was getting slabbed, so that gives me hope. pictures of the IDs for the coins he suggested we get slabbed: also it turns out the silver ingot is some insanely rare Engelhard 7oz edition, I thought it was just a bit of silver and it didn't really matter the make, but I guess due to the absurdly low production of that particular type of ingot it's worth way more than just bulk silver would otherwise be. and apparently, according to another poster here as well as a silver dealer at the coin show, people collect specific makes of silver ingots, engelhard in particular. interesting. edit: of course, I forgot to say, thank you for all of the info! Captain Invictus fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jun 23, 2022 |
# ? Jun 23, 2022 02:24 |
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Talk to anyone else before getting coins cleaned. That poo poo is poison to collectors. Are we talking getting off caked on dirt that can be wiped off with a wet rag or removing patina etc? Edit: there might be edge cases where it’s desirable I dunno it’s been a while since I went deep in coin collecting but in general cleaning is not good. Get a second opinion is what I’m saying. Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Jun 23, 2022 |
# ? Jun 23, 2022 13:10 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:Talk to anyone else before getting coins cleaned. That poo poo is poison to collectors. there were a few fairly grungy coins he recommended grading so I thought it would be a good idea. he specifically said they don't do it in the way that would get something marked "improperly cleaned" or whatever by a grading company, it's mostly to remove dirt and such, yeah.
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# ? Jun 23, 2022 21:51 |
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Captain Invictus posted:this service: https://www.coinworld.com/news/us-coins/anacs-adds-coin-conservation-1.html Talk to some people who do coin stuff. It sets off all the bullshit detectors in my head, and googling I'm seeing other message boards with people talking about it not being great. Here's one where people seem to be settling on a ANACS cleaned coin being worth 10-20% below uncleaned prices. There's not a single right answer to any of this, but with pretty much anything collectable cleaning is going to raise hackles. It's a massive minefield that will give collectors conniptions. At a certain point you do need to do something - no one is going to say to leave dogshit on a coin if you drop it in a turd because now it's "historical dogshit patina" - but where that line is is something people argue about a LOT.
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# ? Jun 23, 2022 22:33 |
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I've reached out to the rep I dealt with, but from the looks of it, I think the ones discussed in that topic are just coins that have been clearly cleaned previously and then being graded by ANACS who see as such and mark it as "Cleaned", much like one would be "100% Toned" or other unique indicators on a slab. I have asked him if ANACS's Conservation service results in the slab having "Cleaned" listed on it, and if so, to cancel the conservation service. If not though, I'll go through with it. The cleaned slab in that article is explicitly NOT of a conservation serviced coin, but of a prior-cleaned coin that was then slabbed. I guess we'll see.
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# ? Jun 23, 2022 23:16 |
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the coins arrived today from ANACS. I'm a bit surprised at the number of "cleaned/polished/retoned" etc but overall I think I'm happy with the outcome. A couple were called "struck copy", which I guess are counterfeits. bummer, those were some of the bigger names mentioned when he initially dug through the box, but also not surprising they were counterfeited. a gallery of the results(the first image is the two copies and a modified penny): https://imgur.com/a/vIsoT1o#hGYeUgE and a rundown from ANACS of what's what of everything: I haven't gone through and checked pricing on anything yet, just took photos of the lot so far. hopefully there's some good value in here, since I just got another quote on siding my house and looks like it's going to be at least 78k to do everything, so to be able to take a chunk out of that cost would be very nice
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# ? Aug 13, 2022 01:09 |
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That's very interesting, thanks for the follow-up. The coins selected for conservation services were slabbed, right? And what does Superlative mean in this context, please? I am not a collector but I sell coins occasionally. I'm interested in the process.
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# ? Aug 13, 2022 04:06 |
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I'm not sure, this is my first time doing this. I'm guessing the superlative is something extraordinary on the coin, but I'm not sure about the abbreviations. yeah, the conservation service coins were slabbed. looks like it doesn't indicate they have undergone such a service on the slab itself. as for the process, well, find a local coin show that has an ANACS rep(or other reputable coin grader rep like PCGS) and go in person to see if you can get a bunch of stuff sent in, it cost me $10 per coin there regardless of value. much more reasonable than getting cards and collectibles graded, that's for drat sure
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# ? Aug 13, 2022 06:46 |
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Gin posted:That's very interesting, thanks for the follow-up. https://imgur.com/a/Ube3KO4#JePvswz https://imgur.com/a/jIEXo6q#nec4Qd3 did some searching and seems like the MS66 Morgan, the two proof Indians, the 1874 proof shield nickel, the two gold coins and a few others are the most valuable ones of the lot that I've checked so far you can definitely tell on some of them that they were modified in some way(the retoning especially).
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# ? Aug 19, 2022 02:34 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 17:04 |
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There are some really beautiful, interesting coins there. Thanks for showing me! Good luck with them!
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# ? Aug 19, 2022 22:02 |