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PhotoKirk
Jul 2, 2007

insert witty text here

Holybat posted:

Those look really awesome! I like the red windshield effect a lot with that scheme too.

General question for the thread, any particular pointers for basing the miniatures? I still got plenty to paint up but once I get through those and varnish them for protection I'd like to work on the hex bases I think

Kitty litter makes good boulders.

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Jobbo_Fett
Mar 7, 2014

Slava Ukrayini

Clapping Larry

Avynte posted:

Lookin good! The white stripes are a nice choice for accents there.

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
Yeah a really slick look for those mechs. I've been meaning to give white striping a try on some new paint projects, so I'll echo that it's a nice choice for accents.

LeschNyhan
Sep 2, 2006

Thanks all! I tried to mimic the technique from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HARE4yzVK8k

The one exception is that since I was going for a kind of jade green with a little texture I put some blue wash over the finished green panels, before drybrushing.

I am being fed a ton of lessons though, like how easy it is to destroy a brush by paint getting into the ferrule. I feel like I'm not washing them well enough either, or maybe not rinsing the brush off enough while I'm working? I'm not sure, so if you have any tips lemme know.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

LeschNyhan posted:

I am being fed a ton of lessons though, like how easy it is to destroy a brush by paint getting into the ferrule. I feel like I'm not washing them well enough either, or maybe not rinsing the brush off enough while I'm working? I'm not sure, so if you have any tips lemme know.

My biggest tip is: never touch dry bristles to paint (unless you're drybrushing; but drybrushing also destroys brushes fast, fortunately you can buy cheap make-up brushes that are amazing for drybrushing and you'll never feel bad about ruining them). If the bristles are dry they'll suck moisture out of the paint and draw paint up into the ferrule. It's a good idea to give your brush a quick dip in water and then mop up the excess. If the bristles are already somewhat saturated with water they'll put more paint on your minis where it belongs.

Depending on what they're made of, brushes can also need conditioning. If you're just buying cheap synthetics this isn't a huge deal, but sable or other real hair brushes need special soaps to keep them in good shape.

LeschNyhan
Sep 2, 2006

PoptartsNinja posted:

My biggest tip is: never touch dry bristles to paint

Oh poo poo, of course that's what's happening to the detail brush.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE


LeschNyhan posted:

Thanks all! I tried to mimic the technique from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HARE4yzVK8k

The one exception is that since I was going for a kind of jade green with a little texture I put some blue wash over the finished green panels, before drybrushing.

I am being fed a ton of lessons though, like how easy it is to destroy a brush by paint getting into the ferrule. I feel like I'm not washing them well enough either, or maybe not rinsing the brush off enough while I'm working? I'm not sure, so if you have any tips lemme know.

It is generally a great idea to keep paint out of the ferrule. It is also a very good idea to not use any brush that you love to either apply a dry brush or to apply washes-- the former is, as noted, very hard on bristles, and the latter basically invites liquid into the ferrule by capillary action. I use sable brushes for most of my work (except base coating, dry brushing and washes) and having a bit of Master's soap will work wonders for cleaning brushes. I have also heard good things about regular old hair conditioner, but I don't know about that. I tend to keep my rinse cups fairly clean and give the brushes a good swish, but I also routinely rinse my brushes midway through a coat of paint just to keep dried gunk from building up-- which I find happens a lot on the smaller, finer brushes.

The other thing that helps produce smoother lines and coats of paint is to use a wet palette and never apply paint directly from the pot or bottle. Direct application, especially if you are using a lot of GW paints with their horrible flip top lids, allows the paint to dry and fosters that buildup of dried paint in the rims that prevent them from sealing properly. A wet palette, which can be as simple as a piece of damp parchment paper over a couple of sheets of wet paper towel, keeps your paint wet for longer and can even help thin it out a bit too, but don't be afraid to add a drop of water to bring down the thickness of your paint (though other additives can also be used as well) and allow it to go on in thinner coats.

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
The wet palette tips alone have made a dramatic increase to my enjoyment of painting. My place is so dry the paints were just turning to gunk within 20 minutes of putting a couple drops on the plastic lids i was using for palettes. Now i've got a janky setup of a sponge in an old small takeout container filled with water and some parchment on top that's been staying nice and slightly damp.

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
I'll put out from my limited painting experience, the wet palette and moisture in the brush is not great if you're using either Citadel Contrast or Army Painter Speedpaints. With those, have a dry palette, and while you still want to wet the brush, the composition of those types of paints really don't want to have a lot of water in there as they're already quite thin.

I think have a few #3 and #5 (Citadel detail brushes equivalent Small and Medium I think) that I use for those paints with BT minis. I tend to load up the brush a bit heavier than I see people using regular paint but still making sure that I don't have the paint up the ferrule. Also, in between the first coat and second, or if I'm using other colors, I'll use a wash container that has an aluminum brush cleaner coil in it to make sure nothing gunks up the brush. After wash, I dry out the brush on a paper towel so only enough moisture is left to make a point to it for paint control.

Also as a side note in my experience priming is a really big deal with Contrast/Speedpaints. Doubly so with Contrast paint. From my painting, Contrast paints really do not work well with Army Painter matt white or black, or other off the shelf Krylon and other primers I've tried. Contrast paints on those primers tends to actually draw the paint into droplets on the surface even if you try to spread it back around, like raindrops on a waxed car. Contrast, perhaps unsurprisingly, seems to work best with Citadel brand colour primers, but of course you're paying a premium price for that stuff. Speedpaints on the other hand not only work well on the cheaper Army Painter primers I got when I first started up painting, but also the random rear end primers I get from some local hardware stores.

Edit: Also, I'll second the Citadel pots not being very good. I ended up buying a bunch of generic dropper bottles on Amazon for a few bucks that work just fine, just get a small funnel to transfer over the Citadel paints to dropper bottles for a much better user experience.

Holybat fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jun 21, 2022

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
Edit: Doublepost

ilmucche
Mar 16, 2016

What did you say the strategy was?
One round is 10 seconds right? Is 3 minutes to go from 2 lances getting each other on sensors to 6 smouldering wrecks and 2 half functioning mechs normal in the universe?

kingcom
Jun 23, 2012

ilmucche posted:

One round is 10 seconds right? Is 3 minutes to go from 2 lances getting each other on sensors to 6 smouldering wrecks and 2 half functioning mechs normal in the universe?

I always found that super weird as the way the game seems to talk about mechs fighting each other, it makes more sense to me at least that a round is a minute of back and forth shooting, dodging, missing, hitting and cycling of weapons. This seems especially true for how sluggish and weighty everything is depicted.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

ilmucche posted:

One round is 10 seconds right? Is 3 minutes to go from 2 lances getting each other on sensors to 6 smouldering wrecks and 2 half functioning mechs normal in the universe?

yeah lol

kingcom posted:

I always found that super weird as the way the game seems to talk about mechs fighting each other, it makes more sense to me at least that a round is a minute of back and forth shooting, dodging, missing, hitting and cycling of weapons. This seems especially true for how sluggish and weighty everything is depicted.

i agree tho. 10 seconds a round is very "crunchy 80s realism". if you're into historicals you can see games of that era with the well defined ground scale, time scale, figure scale, etc., all in search of realism. grogs hate that that's absent from modern games. i think it's much more realistic to have all those scales less exact and more variable bounds, and one turn basically represents one crucial moment of action, whether that moment is 5 seconds or 2 minutes. trying to make a simulation out of a board game and pretending you're getting it right with a totally straight face rather than telling a narrative is an exercise in futility imo.

all that to say there's no reason a turn needs to be 10 seconds, aside from perhaps for defining mech speed. but again, even that is variable because who's to say a mech that used half his move didn't move at full speed, stop, and then move at full speed again? that's just as likely as moving at half speed for the full duration, and dependent on the situation

Breetai
Nov 6, 2005

🥄Mah spoon is too big!🍌
As with everything battletech, the harder you think about it the less cool it is. So don't think too hard and just pew pew pew with your shiny lasers.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Breetai posted:

As with everything battletech, the harder you think about it the less cool it is. So don't think too hard and just pew pew pew with your shiny lasers.

exactly this

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


I think the turn length keeps the game focused on actions that are relatively straightforward. Trying to reload a weapon mid-combat or steal a mech are right out.

Anyway, Randall Bills ran an event in Seattle yesterday. About twelve people per table, set up as a grinder, free mini for every kill, eventually a Warhammer IIc dropped into the middle of the map, with a prize for whoever killed it. I'm in the Flashman. He told me if I fought the other players for a couple turns he'd show me his back so I figured, what the hell.

Defiance Industries fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jun 27, 2022

DrPop
Aug 22, 2004


Defiance Industries posted:

I think the turn length keeps the game focused on actions that are relatively straightforward. Trying to reload a weapon mid-combat or steal a mech are right out.

Anyway, Randall Bills ran an event in Seattle yesterday. About twelve people per table, set up as a grinder, free mini for every kill, eventually a Warhammer IIc dropped into the middle of the map, with a prize for whoever killed it. I'm in the Flashman. He told me if I fought the other players for a couple turns he'd show me his back so I figured, what the hell.



Nice, how was it? I saw promo for that event and it sounded like a lot of fun.

I played a Star + Elemental point vs Star + Elemental point game against my cousin last week. He brought a Garg Prime, Ice Ferret T, Dire Wolf Widowmaker, Pack Hunter, and a Shadow Cat J as well as his Elementals. I had a Night Gyr H, Ice Ferret P, Black Lanner D, Fire Falcon H, and a Huntsman D in addition to my BA.




Luck was with me for Initiative and I was able to get behind the Widowmaker with the Ferret at first and then the Lanner and then the Ferret for a third time, but I had terrible shot grouping. All my rear arc shots went into his arms and legs and he used the Widowmaker's Edge to reroll a crit on UAC 20 ammo in the arm on my third consecutive round of rear arc shooting. The Widowmaker also used its flippy arms to full effect in the first real round of combat and blasted my Ferret's CT with an LPLs on a 9 and a PPC on an 11, promptly gyro'ing it. Rest of the game was me just getting whittled away by UAC20s on 10s and worse.

Lessons learned:
  • Don't roll poorly with your backstabbers' shot grouping
  • If you're going to take a Night Gyr and pay out the rear end for one BVwise, you might as well get one that can do more than just plink with a single Gauss Rifle and UAC 10
  • I still hate fighting against Dire Wolves
Also just finished this Summoner.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Oh, gently caress me they released a premium Hammerhead and it sold out instantly.

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
poo poo I was going to try to get one too. Oh well glad that means plenty of support from the BattleTech community for the charity

Strobe
Jun 30, 2014
GW BRAINWORMS CREW

PoptartsNinja posted:

Oh, gently caress me they released a premium Hammerhead and it sold out instantly.

I ordered three so if push comes to shove let me know and I'll send one your way.

EDIT: Looks like there will be more. https://bg.battletech.com/forums/general-discussion/upcoming-releases-xxiv-we-re-about-good-luck-here/msg1844810/#msg1844810

Strobe fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jun 27, 2022

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
I'll have to keep checking it daily, then.

That's a mini I really wouldn't mind having (preferably a couple of, it's a great design).

Rorahusky
Nov 12, 2012

Transform and waaauuuugh out!
I managed to get a Hammerhead, but only because the very night it was announced for the charity, as soon as I got home from work, I hopped online and ordered it.

And yeah, it really is a nice design, both in aesthetically, canonically, and mechanically. Just a tough little Medium 'Mech that soaks damage like something 30 tons heavier, that never falls over no matter how much you rail it, and a simple, yet effective loadout.

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


DrPop posted:

Nice, how was it? I saw promo for that event and it sounded like a lot of fun.

Everyone had a really good time, and the turnout was very strong so that was cool. Also, despite all the talk about BT as a game that grogs play because they don't want to do anything beyond 3025, literally everyone I talked to was really excited to play campaigns with the new Tamar Rising map.

Sidesaddle Cavalry
Mar 15, 2013

Oh Boy Desert Map
Might want to color that with the fact that participants going to an event hosted by Randall aren't likely to be grogs from the fringes of the hobby

alg
Mar 14, 2007

A wolf was no less a wolf because a whim of chance caused him to run with the watch-dogs.

My buddy lives in Seattle, and is looking to get into the game. What store is that?

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:

Might want to color that with the fact that participants going to an event hosted by Randall aren't likely to be grogs from the fringes of the hobby

Eh, the GenCon clique are some of the groggiest grogs who have ever existed. Proximity to the CGL staff doesn't mean poo poo.

alg posted:

My buddy lives in Seattle, and is looking to get into the game. What store is that?

Zulu's Board Game Cafe in Bothell

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Catalyst has put the Barnes & Noble exclusive Wolfs Dragoons packs up on their website, if anyone wants the Annihilator or alternate sculpts for the Archer, Timberwolf, Rifleman, and Blackjack.

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy

PoptartsNinja posted:

Catalyst has put the Barnes & Noble exclusive Wolfs Dragoons packs up on their website, if anyone wants the Annihilator or alternate sculpts for the Archer, Timberwolf, Rifleman, and Blackjack.

sweet, i've been holding on to the box gift certificate for something in the future, and the annihilator sculpt has been calling to me.

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
So I've been trying to add some more light RP elements and some extra d20 rolls to my alpha strike campaign, and I'm curious what interesting "battlefield effects" or "character abilities / quirks" people have added to their games. Re-reading through PTN's excellent LP has been giving me some ideas but I'm curious what others would think are fun.

ie: Players have been getting attached to their characters, so when they get destroyed I've been thinking along the lines of " 'intimidated by X!' +1 TN to enemies of a certain type (whatever destroyed them)" or " 'Seeking vengeance against X!' must target enemies in LOS of class / faction unless passing a pilot skill roll" or " 'scared of X!' must move directly away from enemies in LOS of certain type / faction unless passing a pilot skill roll"

I really liked the idea of boosting random player skill for one turn as well, but not sure what other ideas might work for buffing players, ie: " 'One With My Mech': Become a 1 or 2 skill pilot for 1 round"

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


You could give them options on parts to mix things up between drops. Offer to sell them a Defiance Hunter AC/10 that has some minor bonus like generating one less heat or getting one more belt of ammo per ton at a higher price or a Quikscell AC/10 that uses prototype AC/10 stats for half off.

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy

Defiance Industries posted:

You could give them options on parts to mix things up between drops. Offer to sell them a Defiance Hunter AC/10 that has some minor bonus like generating one less heat or getting one more belt of ammo per ton at a higher price or a Quikscell AC/10 that uses prototype AC/10 stats for half off.

Great idea! I had been thinking along the lines of potential alterations based off of "clan salvage" to buff their mechs, but offering tradeoffs for "heat / damage stats" is more interesting as well when it comes to customization

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
Not sure if this gets into :filez: territory, but can anyone help point me in the direction of an STL for IonRaptor's Rakshasa "Man-Eater"

I've finally got a 3d printer on the way and that's the last print I'm really looking for. The dude did such an awesome job on the model, I'm really sad he took down everything out there.

Avynte fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jul 3, 2022

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.

Avynte posted:

Not sure if this gets into :filez: territory, but can anyone help point me in the direction of an STL for IonRaptor's Rakshasa "Man-Eater"

I've finally got a 3d printer on the way and that's the last print I'm really looking for. The dude did such an awesome job on the model, I'm really sad he took down everything out there.

Aw drat, I didn't know he took down his designs. I'm in the same boat my 3d printer is supposed to get here Friday :v:

Avynte
Jun 30, 2012

by Fluffdaddy

Holybat posted:

Aw drat, I didn't know he took down his designs. I'm in the same boat my 3d printer is supposed to get here Friday :v:

Archive.org has a lot of his stuff and that's where I've pulled what I can find, but there's probably more (like the rakshasa) that I've been out of luck on so far

https://ia804509.us.archive.org/view_archive.php?archive=/24/items/thingiverse-4080923/6mm_Mech_Collection_4080923.zip

https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Aaron+Swickard+%28IonRaptor%29%22&sin=

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
Hey thanks for those links, greatly appreciated.

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


IWM has a 20% off coupon until the 7th, if you feel like picking up some metal minis. I decided to buy a Juliano because I can point to it and say "Someone I know designed this!" (Xarb) which is fun

Holybat
Dec 22, 2006

I made this while you were asleep.
That's good to know. There are a couple of metals only minis I've been thinking of picking up, including the Juliano. It's going to be the center piece of a FWL force I'm painting up this week, and it's a great looking design

Holybat fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jul 6, 2022

SirFozzie
Mar 28, 2004
Goombatta!
So, the final in the line of reprints, A Time of War (the Battletech RPG) is at the printers, and they're going to use the box cover art from Succession Wars for it:

Defiance Industries
Jul 22, 2010

A five-star manufacturer


Kind of a weird choice since AToW is written with the Jihad as its default setting.

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SirFozzie
Mar 28, 2004
Goombatta!
Oof. Topps and CGL step in on Everything Battletech, for once, I support the IP owners, because it seems the EvBtech folks were rather... um.. assholes (their discord was filled with altright bullshit), and they were selling access to everything battletech sections of the server without Catalyst/Topps permission

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