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Got my C licence so decided to try the Radical SR10 for size. Holy poo poo.
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Jun 14, 2022 14:04
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| # ? May 28, 2024 17:30 |
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The Radical is what it says it is.
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Jun 14, 2022 14:11
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It's definitely a lot more of a handful than the SR8 was, but in a good way, it is rowdy edit: I hope with ndm it can take a hit better than the SR8, it was extremely fragile
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Jun 14, 2022 14:33
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HerpicleOmnicron5 posted:what’s a clutch It's what allows Lego bricks to stay attached to each other
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Jun 14, 2022 16:09
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MazeOfTzeentch posted:It's definitely a lot more of a handful than the SR8 was, but in a good way, it is rowdy I find the opposite since it's so pushy, the sr8 would just spin if you aren't careful.
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Jun 14, 2022 16:52
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MazeOfTzeentch posted:It's definitely a lot more of a handful than the SR8 was, but in a good way, it is rowdy Yeah I had a pretty big contact that would have ended an SR8 race and kept going fine in the SR10
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Jun 14, 2022 18:32
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Got to share my experience tonight. I decided I wasn't near ready to race my new SR 10 yesterday and just left it at practice, picked it up again today and could barely get a lap in at any kind of pace without locking up or spinning, started wondering if I'd made a mistake buying it. Kept practicing, couldn't really push for long without binning it but got some kind of rhythm and learned where the dangerous parts of the track were for me so I went into a race. Really expected to be bottom split, around 1k SoF but I was instead just good enough to get into the third split at 1.6k SoF, so I'm really nervous at this point. I started mid-pack since half the field didn't qualify which is even worse. Finished top half, 0x incidents, didn't get lapped. I feel incredible.
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Jun 15, 2022 23:10
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Not much feels better than doing really well and not much feels worse than binning it on the last lap of an hour long race. iRacing is a game of high highs and low lows. Congrats!
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Jun 16, 2022 04:26
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I recently started playing F1 2017 (the most recent title where I can get both great framerates and graphics on my aging rig) Can anyone point me to a good resource on setting up the car? I have a general understanding doing of obvious things like wings and weight distribution but other things like the anti-roll bars, camber/toe, as well as what kinds of things you want to look at for particular circuits, I am fairly ignorant about.
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Jun 16, 2022 04:34
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MrMojok posted:I recently started playing F1 2017 (the most recent title where I can get both great framerates and graphics on my aging rig) Generally speaking you can probably get a lot out of only touching the rollbars in addition to the wings. I dunno where F1 2017 is at but in IRL F1 cars you're adjusting brake bias/peak brake bias a lot to suit tracks, differential slip settings to allow drivers to get back on power earlier, entire aero packages, that kind of thing. I would suggest starting by getting super comfortable with the car in a baseline type of setup on a certain track - you should be putting in consecutive laps within .5s of each other. Then take your rear roll bar one step stiffer and see how that impacts the handling and how you feel in a variety of corners. ARB resource: https://www.ast-suspension.com/docs/tech-talk/Setup-Tips-Anti-Roll-Bar.pdf e: I know it's not what you came here for but if you find setup in any way interesting you need to just get on iRacing it's where you belong.
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Jun 16, 2022 06:45
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MrMojok posted:I recently started playing F1 2017 (the most recent title where I can get both great framerates and graphics on my aging rig) https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/suspension-geometry-explained/ explains the concepts pretty well. Drive, make a small change, see how it feels. Single changes only unless you know very well what you are doing. Long straights, slow corners = lower wing Tight track or fast corners = more wing
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Jun 16, 2022 14:26
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On the other hand, if you just care about going faster more than the theory of it all, I think the F1 games are still very much "trial and error counterintuitive things til you find an edge case that breaks physics a bit" so you can save time by just finding some streamer or other's setups online.
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Jun 16, 2022 15:03
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Thanks, guys. I have considered iRacing but I need to upgrade my hardware, I think. e: I do find setups online and I tend to modify them to make the car a bit “tail-happy” just through the wings and weight distribution, but what I haven’t ever understood is the anti-roll/suspension type stuff. I think once I dig into this link I will gain a little better understanding of all that. Thanks again. MrMojok fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jun 16, 2022 |
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Jun 16, 2022 15:13
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The rollbars in f1 essentially control how much the car wants to slide in a corner. More rollbar=more sliding. They force your car to stay flat, which sometimes means that the lateral forces overcome the tires and you slide. If you like tail happy cars, dial it up in the back and run it lower in the front. The suspension is mostly analogous to damping in the real world. If you add suspension the car is more likely to bounce on curbs and things like that, but will stay flatter and more planted in corners. Less suspension means you won’t upset the car as much on curbs, but there’s more body roll and less traction in corners. It also means the car dives more on the brakes. Some tracks require you to mount the curbs to go the fastest, so you need to strike a balance between not catching air and not understeering like crazy The two can somewhat cancel each other out or complement one another. The key is finding the balance on a per-track basis
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Jun 16, 2022 15:24
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Was about to go get a sweet deal on a Thrustmaster T150 from FB marketplace, told the guy I was getting ready to leave work to meet (we had made a plan to do so earlier in the day) and they just blocked me completely. Welp.
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Jun 17, 2022 03:07
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Vando posted:
Finally did some deeper research and, yeah, seems like I can either wait who knows how long for the CSL DD (without paying an extra $100 for the Gran Turismo branding) or go with the Moza for more budget oriented DD. Kind of annoying that the Moza DD seems well priced and quality-wise on reviews, but without any wheel selection to match--just recently coming out with an affordable one that seems too light on buttons (and only on the official site so far I think which has $165+ shipping to the US) or a $500 good one which makes the combined price a good deal higher than CSL DD w/ boost + ClubSport hub w/ wheel bundle that seemed like a good all-round setup. Also: lol that there's guides on how to make your own boost box for the CSL DD for $30, instead of the $150 upcharge Fanatec has since it's apparently just a 180W power brick with a somewhat weird plug (4 pin like a modular power supply). Getting closer to going ahead and pulling the trigger on snagging Fanatec CSL pedals w/ LC to at least get that improved braking feel though--still pretty on the fence about $1000 for a DD + wheel.
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Jun 17, 2022 07:21
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You'll get more out of load cell pedals that a direct drive wheel.
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Jun 17, 2022 07:31
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bUm posted:Finally did some deeper research and, yeah, seems like I can either wait who knows how long for the CSL DD (without paying an extra $100 for the Gran Turismo branding) or go with the Moza for more budget oriented DD. Kind of annoying that the Moza DD seems well priced and quality-wise on reviews, but without any wheel selection to match--just recently coming out with an affordable one that seems too light on buttons (and only on the official site so far I think which has $165+ shipping to the US) or a $500 good one which makes the combined price a good deal higher than CSL DD w/ boost + ClubSport hub w/ wheel bundle that seemed like a good all-round setup. Also: lol that there's guides on how to make your own boost box for the CSL DD for $30, instead of the $150 upcharge Fanatec has since it's apparently just a 180W power brick with a somewhat weird plug (4 pin like a modular power supply). since you're playing rally crap, if you do go fanatec and really don't care for having every xbox button in the world on your wheel for other games, one possible way to save money is to just get an SRM adapter (tho make sure to have a QR or w/e prefit on there since you'd have to actually do work otherwise to wire them) and throw some moderately cheap knockoff wheel on there. I only play RBR and just ended up buying a programmable 9 keypad and just use that for menus arrow keys+enter+esc. Homeless Friend fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 09:20
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Bentai posted:You'll get more out of load cell pedals that a direct drive wheel. Can we make this the thread title?
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Jun 17, 2022 13:15
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Can we make this the thread title? I bugged Veeg to do it and he did it in 30 seconds lol
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Jun 17, 2022 14:49
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This cropped up in YT recommendeds and may be neat to people talking about Le Mans recently. An onboard lap guide from 1956: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpRFagIbcPEHomeless Friend posted:since you're playing rally crap, if you do go fanatec and really don't care for having every xbox button in the world on your wheel for other games, one possible way to save money is to just get an SRM adapter (tho make sure to have a QR or w/e prefit on there since you'd have to actually do work otherwise to wire them) and throw some moderately cheap knockoff wheel on there. I only play RBR and just ended up buying a programmable 9 keypad and just use that for menus arrow keys+enter+esc.
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Jun 17, 2022 21:56
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bUm posted:Definitely don't only rally and many racing games aren't as kind as rally ones on buttons needed. "This one indy car in the 90s had a very specific button for an experimental thing that was banned after three races so you need to bind it to something"
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Jun 17, 2022 22:08
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I bugged Veeg to do it and he did it in 30 seconds lol Spelling error included 
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Jun 17, 2022 22:11
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KillHour posted:"This one indy car in the 90s had a very specific button for an experimental thing that was banned after three races so you need to bind it to something" I always enjoy the secondary brake binding in AMS2 that’s only used by one car.
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Jun 17, 2022 23:14
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bUm posted:This cropped up in YT recommendeds and may be neat to people talking about Le Mans recently. An onboard lap guide from 1956: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpRFagIbcPE 1950's streamer technology 
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Jun 18, 2022 02:45
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bUm posted:This cropped up in YT recommendeds and may be neat to people talking about Le Mans recently. An onboard lap guide from 1956: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpRFagIbcPE GPLaps with some 50s Le Mans stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3UPjGhm4tE&t=3s
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Jun 19, 2022 11:29
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bUm posted:This cropped up in YT recommendeds and may be neat to people talking about Le Mans recently. An onboard lap guide from 1956: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpRFagIbcPE For a moment I got confused between 1955 and 1956 Le Mans and was a bit weirded out.
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Jun 19, 2022 14:32
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Same
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Jun 19, 2022 15:35
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Bentai posted:You'll get more out of load cell pedals that a direct drive wheel.  Held off on other upgrades for now--temptation is high though w/ much disposable income with the job switch (2 weeks overlap, old PTO payout, signing bonus, much higher salary). 
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Jun 20, 2022 18:28
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I'm working a DIY sim rig right now and I think my ergonomics are way off. I swear I remember seeing a dimensioned drawing for a race seat but I can't find it through search or in the last few pages. Does anyone remember posting that or see it?
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Jun 22, 2022 03:38
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm working a DIY sim rig right now and I think my ergonomics are way off. I swear I remember seeing a dimensioned drawing for a race seat but I can't find it through search or in the last few pages. You're looking for the dimensions of the seat itself or of a whole rig?
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Jun 22, 2022 03:56
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VelociBacon posted:You're looking for the dimensions of the seat itself or of a whole rig? I remember it being a side view with seat height, seat angle, seat back angle, and pedal positions noted with dimensions. Some of them were probably ranges to account for different users. I might be totally misremembering though, I've been doing some unrelated furniture design and see diagrams like that once in awhile.
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Jun 22, 2022 04:13
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I remember it being a side view with seat height, seat angle, seat back angle, and pedal positions noted with dimensions. Some of them were probably ranges to account for different users. That's going to be so specific to the height of the driver that I can't imagine finding something with exact spatial relationships would work. I don't think I've seen that.
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Jun 22, 2022 04:22
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What I did when I built my diy rig was measure my car and I used that as a starting point. Distance from the seat to the pedals, seat to the wheel, pedals to wheel, stuff like that
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Jun 22, 2022 04:42
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What I did when I built my diy rig was measure my car and I used that as a starting point. I was going to do that but then totaled my car a few weeks ago  The specific problem I'm trying to solve is that my pedals are aggravating a knee problem. I think I'm using my shin muscles to avoid riding the brake, but that's straining my patella over an hour or two of racing. I think my pedals are way too low relative to my chair but I don't have a good reference. I don't left foot brake IRL driving so this has never been an issue.
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Jun 22, 2022 05:24
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If you have load cell pedals, calibrate the zero/rest position with your foot resting comfortably on the brake, or even applying a tiny touch of pressure, if you want to err on the side of caution. Now you can completely rest your foot while driving without riding the brake, as you'll need to actually apply pressure to trigger them.
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Jun 22, 2022 05:32
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I was going to do that but then totaled my car a few weeks ago In addition to what the goon above me said, I find this means you're laying down too much in the position, and maybe that your pedal "tray" is too upright. With your heel resting on the plate, the ball of your foot should be resting comfortably on the pedal. If it's pulled back or you feel like you have to pull it back with your 'shin muscles' you're going to hate using it.. You really want to be up in a GT seated position
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Jun 22, 2022 05:45
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You absolutely want a normal car/get style seating position not a formula/open wheel seating position, I got really bad leg pain until I figured that out. And thirding brake pedal deadzone part,it should be very comfortable to rest your foot against the brake pedal for long periods (without dragging it in-sim)
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Jun 22, 2022 11:04
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Yeah, single seater seating positions are a huge compromise for performance gain and a lot of them can only be maintained because the drivers are super fit in the first place. If you don't need to make yourself fit in a car, go for comfort every time.
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Jun 22, 2022 11:51
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Yeah you won’t get any faster by laying down. Build that thing like a Cadillac if you can
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Jun 22, 2022 12:44
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