|
For backpacking, how to comfortably strap a tripod to your backpack is a much more significant concern. All damage I've suffered on the trail would not have been influenced by a UV filter, it's always scuffs on the body/barrel.
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 19:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:12 |
|
|
I just put a lens cap on my lenses when I'm not shooting, and if I am shooting I am hopefully not smashing them into rocks. It's worked so far for years of mountaineering, ice and rock climbing , skiing and cycling. I've also been impressed with how tough lenses are in general. Had a camera strap fail on me and two kilos of telephoto zoom tumble onto rocks from waist height. I was already wondering if my insurance would cover it when I picked it up, but apart from a few scratches on the body it's as good as new - not a mark on the (lens capped) front element, and AF and stabilisation still work perfectly. I think the one time I'd consider a protective filter would be if I were going somewhere extremely dusty or sandy. Might help prevent stuff getting inside the lens, although I've no experience with that so I'm not sure if it would actually be useful.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 22:15
|
|
|
I like using them if I'm gonna be wiping the lens a lot or there's going to be grit flying around. Like if it's raining hard and I'm going to be constantly hitting it with towel, filming equipment that's flinging dirt/whatever, mud and sand spray, welding sparks/grinder sparks, etc. Some of that stuff is just way easier to clean off a filter than the little nooks and crannies of the front of a lens barrel, especially if I'm moving fast. Generally I keep them on my zooms as they tend to see the rougher use, and leave them off my primes as I want the best image quality there and tend to baby them a little more. I've never had one actually take an impact or save a lens though. If I was in a setting where I had time to clean a bit more carefully I don't think it'd make that much difference (other than flying sparks maybe.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 22:35
|
|
|
The difference in using a filter vs not using one is some pixel peeping bullshit. Do what makes you comfortable, literally no one is going to notice unless you tell them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
Worth noting that in some cases, weather sealed lenses require a filter to achieve their full weather resistance potential. Varies by lens though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 22:53
|
|
|
I bought a UV filter to try to make a poor mans soft filter by spraying hairspray on it but it was a bit of a fail idea. if only I knew how to glue diamonds onto it 
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 23:04
|
|
|
I put a UV filter on and it made all my photos bad. Haven't taken it off yet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2022 23:11
|
|
|
I thought the trick was to stack like 5 Bower UV filters on one lens?
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2022 00:52
|
|
|
In macro the trick is to stack filters up to your focussing distance so you know when you are in focus
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2022 15:44
|
|
|
echinopsis posted:I bought a UV filter to try to make a poor mans soft filter by spraying hairspray on it but it was a bit of a fail idea. if only I knew how to glue diamonds onto it I bet workable fixative or acrylic spray varnish would do the trick toggle posted:My OM-1 finally arrived after ordering back in March. I had no idea auto focus can be like this. As a life long GH5 user and L mount user, this is incredible. What body did you have before? I love my em5 III and am cautiously hopeful in the future of m43 now
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
HungryMedusa posted:I bet workable fixative or acrylic spray varnish would do the trick Vaseline got used for more creative options, creating weird blur effects around the edges of the frame.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 01:00
|
|
|
xzzy posted:The old technique is stretching some nylon stockings over the font element. For more fun and an old school look, I recommend netting the rear element. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 04:18
|
|
|
So I’m going to Alaska this fall, I am thinking of getting a x mount 100-400 for wildlife photography. Anything else I should consider bringing?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 18:34
|
|
|
might be better to hold off and get the 200-600 since they're almost the same price, most people I've talked to don't have great things to say about the fuji 100-400, but you can also get a used one at least also a good idea to get an over the shoulder strap for carrying it around and having easy access monopods and tripods are good ideas but if you've got dual IS going on maybe not really needed. there's a learning curve there too and they can get expensive so maybe that's more for down the line if you want
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 18:40
|
|
|
Bear spray and a way to keep it readily available on your hip or backpack chest strap. And yes, get as much zoom range as you can afford. No such thing as too much zoom when shooting animals.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:02
|
|
|
Maybe pick up a rain cover for your camera/lens. I took a birding trip there in the late '90's and it literally rained some every day, and we weren't even in SE Alaska. Otherwise, if you want ideas, you can browse various Alaska camera workshops and get ideas for the recommended gear.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:20
|
|
|
Polarizer? Not sure how much snow cover there is in AK that time of year, but oh god the glare.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:30
|
|
|
How serious a risk does cold pose to equipment, anyway? Most Fuji gear says it's rated down to 20°F, but I live in Minnesota where it's usually below that for long stretches of winter. Should I just avoid outdoor shooting altogether if the equipment is going to get that cold, to avoid damaging the camera and lenses? Or is it just that the autofocus and battery performance will struggle below that temp?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:32
|
|
|
Cognac McCarthy posted:How serious a risk does cold pose to equipment, anyway? Most Fuji gear says it's rated down to 20°F, but I live in Minnesota where it's usually below that for long stretches of winter. Should I just avoid outdoor shooting altogether if the equipment is going to get that cold, to avoid damaging the camera and lenses? Or is it just that the autofocus and battery performance will struggle below that temp? I've operated my camera in those temps for hours. Its probably not great for it, but I didnt break it. The most important part is not to shock your camera going inside to outside or vise versa. Especially the latter. Condensation will form on every surface including internally and its a huge pain to get out. Leave the camera in its bag for a few hours before taking it out to let it come up to temps slowly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:37
|
|
|
Cognac McCarthy posted:How serious a risk does cold pose to equipment, anyway? Most Fuji gear says it's rated down to 20°F, but I live in Minnesota where it's usually below that for long stretches of winter. Should I just avoid outdoor shooting altogether if the equipment is going to get that cold, to avoid damaging the camera and lenses? Or is it just that the autofocus and battery performance will struggle below that temp? The camera will be fine. Your battery life is gonna suck poo poo though, consider keeping spares inside your coat so they stay a bit warmer. There is certainly a point where the mechanics will stop working, but I've used mine in -10F and not had any issues. The bigger concern will be fogging the lens when coming back inside. I'm unsure if there's any actual risk to fogging the internal elements, but if that scares you leave your stuff in the backpack for a few hours to let it gradually come up to room temperature. um excuse me posted:Polarizer? Not sure how much snow cover there is in AK that time of year, but oh god the glare. Heavily depends on how deep into fall we're talking and what part of the state one is in. First snow is usually in the middle of October around Anchorage, but the climate has changed so much the past 20 years it's probably only going to be less than an inch. But if one's in the mountains or deep in the interior there's going to be persistent snow cover by that point.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 19:45
|
|
|
Cognac McCarthy posted:How serious a risk does cold pose to equipment, anyway? Most Fuji gear says it's rated down to 20°F, but I live in Minnesota where it's usually below that for long stretches of winter. Should I just avoid outdoor shooting altogether if the equipment is going to get that cold, to avoid damaging the camera and lenses? Or is it just that the autofocus and battery performance will struggle below that temp? When I've shot below the rated temps with Fuji gear, the only noticeable difference was autofocus speed, and it dove hard.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
Cognac McCarthy posted:How serious a risk does cold pose to equipment, anyway? Most Fuji gear says it's rated down to 20°F, but I live in Minnesota where it's usually below that for long stretches of winter. Should I just avoid outdoor shooting altogether if the equipment is going to get that cold, to avoid damaging the camera and lenses? Or is it just that the autofocus and battery performance will struggle below that temp? I had my Sony gear in _actual_ Denali base camp for 9 days straight and it worked fine throughout the entire trip.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
I can also report never experiencing issues beyond reduced battery life in 100+ nights spent shooting the aurora in Arctic Norway and Finland. Even the condensation problem isn't that bad, I'd wipe the viewfinder and front element if they fogged and didn't really worry about it otherwise. Carry a couple spare batteries somewhere close to your body and you'll be fine. And get comfortable shooting with gloves on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2022 01:48
|
|
|
HungryMedusa posted:What body did you have before? I love my em5 III and am cautiously hopeful in the future of m43 now Only micro four thirds camera I have is the original GH5, but all my lenses are Olympus ones.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2022 03:42
|
|
|
I have a bunch of F mount Nikon stuff I'd like to sell to upgrade to Z. What are good places online to sell that stuff other than eBay? Places to avoid?
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2022 23:23
|
|
|
Mpb does decent if you don't wanna deal with eBay
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2022 01:49
|
|
|
MBP is like KEH? I'm not selling direct to buyer I'm selling to a dealer?
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2022 13:07
|
|
|
Yeah it's a company. They give you a rough price, you send it in, they check it over and confirm and you get paid. Change your mind and they send it back. The prices you get will be less than ebay but you don't have to deal with all the risk involved with selling to an individual. https://www.mpb.com/
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2022 13:20
|
|
|
So I guess their pricing will be on par with KEH? I'm kinda old school with selling to people on forums and such. I just haven't done it in like 10yrs (buying yes, selling no).
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2022 17:29
|
|
|
I've gotten some experience out of the canon 17-85mm f/4-5,6 and 55-250mm f4-5,6 that I was given. The only issues I have is that the more standard lens has issues auto focusing still in bright light and high contrast situations. It also has a kind of sticky barrel movement, that I don't really know how to fix. I can't really rely on it focusing faster than I can spin the manual wheel accurately. I was thinking that instead of buying another standard to replace it, I'd get something faster and a bit wide. I intend on doing more building and street photography in low light and situations where people move. The Sigma 30mm f/1,4 EF-S kinda fits the budget and the niche, does anyone have any experience with it or opinions? I was thinking of spending more than the lil 24mm pancake lens because moving from f/4 -> f/3 for 100 bucks just didn't seem to be that dramatic of an improvement, not that i know.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2022 03:51
|
|
|
FWIW, I've zero complaints with the 24mm EFS. It's super-duper tiny and the images are sharp and vibrant. Moreso than my OG 50mm 1.8, imo.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2022 04:39
|
|
|
I recently had a problem with haze in a lens so now I'm paranoid. Just got a Nikkor 210mm from Japan via Ebay. Most of it looks fine (I think) and there's some dust but that's normal. There is however a spot inside and I'm not sure what it is and its quite a bit larger than the dust.  Three questions: - What the hell is it? - Is this "Almost unused. Beautiful condition. There is no fog. There is no fungus. There is no balsam separation. There are no scratches. There are no large dusts."? - Is finding one of these lenses in better condition even feasible?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 02:11
|
|
|
My general rule is that if you can only see it by shining through very bright light or by looking very closely it will not effect your images. Anyway, it could be mold. Can you tell what element it's on? You might get lucky and it's on the rear element before the shutter in which case you can just unscrew it and clean it off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 02:24
|
|
|
Megabound posted:My general rule is that if you can only see it by shining through very bright light or by looking very closely it will not effect your images. Anyway, it could be mold. Can you tell what element it's on? You might get lucky and it's on the rear element before the shutter in which case you can just unscrew it and clean it off. Yeah, I was more worried about a mold/fungus/haze taking hold and spreading than image quality. I've only ever seen one piece of dust affect image quality and it was a huge chunk and only at f16+. It was on the rear of the front element, but I was shocked at how easy it was to take this lens apart. I just unscrewed, hit it with the rocket duster, and the spot was gone. Success!
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 02:45
|
|
|
That's the nice thing about LF lenses, very serviceable. If it looked like fungus a clean with ammonia and a dash of peroxide will kill whatever's on it dead and keep it good. The other thing I've heard is leaving your lens in direct sunlight so UV can do the job for you too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 03:01
|
|
|
Megabound posted:The other thing I've heard is leaving your lens in direct sunlight so UV can do the job for you too. But away from things that could catch on fire.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 04:14
|
|
|
Megabound posted:That's the nice thing about LF lenses, very serviceable. If it looked like fungus a clean with ammonia and a dash of peroxide will kill whatever's on it dead and keep it good. The other thing I've heard is leaving your lens in direct sunlight so UV can do the job for you too. the one big problem is if it is inside a cemented group - and there are fungus that like eating the canada balsam glue in older lenses. If that happens it usually totals the lens, you can stop further growth but the only way to fix it is to take it apart, dissolve the cement and clean the elements, and then re-coat, re-align, and re-cement the elements. Usually not worth it unless it's something rare and exotic, or you have an emotional attachment to it. Same general problem as schneideritis.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2022 05:30
|
|
|
I need to buy babbys first video lights and was wondering what I should get. LED panels weren't even a thing back when I first thought about branching into video/hot light photography. Are they pretty much the go to set up for small production video? I love the RGB ability but have heard that some may flicker in video. I'm also concerned with how bright they can get. Do they pair well with 100Ws strobes or are they going to be completely drowned out on anything except the lowest settings on the strobes? Naturally Newer has a kit that is tempting, but I know they're absolutely entry level equipment and my expectations should be to spend more.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2022 18:30
|
|
|
um excuse me posted:I need to buy babbys first video lights and was wondering what I should get. LED panels weren't even a thing back when I first thought about branching into video/hot light photography. Are they pretty much the go to set up for small production video? I love the RGB ability but have heard that some may flicker in video. I'm also concerned with how bright they can get. Do they pair well with 100Ws strobes or are they going to be completely drowned out on anything except the lowest settings on the strobes? If you're going with budget lights, I would recommend GVM, Yongnuo, or your aforementioned Neewer. If you want the big boys, I recommend Aputure, Creamsource, Litepanels, Litemat, Quasar Science, and Nanlite. VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jun 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2022 19:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:12 |
|
|
So apparently Adorama puts all their used stuff on eBay as well as the main site. And there is a lag between when an eBay used item is sold and when its removed from inventory on the main site. So if a used item is sold on eBay and someone buys the same used item on the main site they will just send a new copy of the item for the main site purchase.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2022 20:55
|
|