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i don't see why you would include the coil if you stick a QR skewer through just for maintenance purposes - i won't comment on whether that's something you should or shouldn't do in the first place, i wouldn't know. either way, i think they'd have to consciously add the coil to the end they're sticking through the frame before twisting the end cap on, and adding the coil makes little sense to me, let alone two...
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Jun 3, 2022 11:10
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If you need an axle in the bike you just use the TA. I can’t see a reason to use QA.
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Jun 3, 2022 13:07
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Trying to clamp the QR ends with any force to the frame would damage the carbon -- it's not designed to take any force from that direction.
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Jun 3, 2022 13:09
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I can’t conceive how having the springs in there in the first place would work. Is this mechanic some person who just does bike work on the side? I’d actually just avoid going to this mechanic in the future - just seems like they are suffering from Dunning kruger given their spoke statements as well.
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Jun 6, 2022 15:18
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Shadowhand00 posted:suffering from Dunning kruger lol
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Jun 6, 2022 16:18
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well no they’re pretty established in the neighborhood, it’s like a small mom & pop store and they’ve been there forever, I even went there as a kid. I just haven’t gone there that often in total and they did good work on my old touring bike, installing a front pannier rack, stuff like that. Although their comment of how they installed disk brakes on some dude’s bike and they were worn down after a week and nobody could explain it now shines in a different light. (They told me about that when I came back with my rim brakes completely worn down after a month and maybe 200km rides, 40 of them in pouring rain)
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Jun 7, 2022 15:33
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Just because they've been around a while doesn't mean they are any good. Bike shops are weird. So many that are way better than they ought to be, and the reverse.
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Jun 7, 2022 15:52
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Well dang, I took apart my pedals and snugged up the bearings a tiny bit to try to eliminate any play, and freshly regreased them, but there still seems to be some slop in the axle/pedal body back on the bike especially under hard load. Maybe I just didn't tighten the bearings enough? There wasn't any obvious play with them apart. Or maybe the pedals are a red herring and the play is in the bottom bracket??
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Jun 7, 2022 21:21
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Guinness posted:Well dang, I took apart my pedals and snugged up the bearings a tiny bit to try to eliminate any play, and freshly regreased them, but there still seems to be some slop in the axle/pedal body back on the bike especially under hard load. When you take the pedal off and hold it by the threads and pull it around... Is there play? This should be pretty easy to isolate but the next thing to check is that the cranks are on tight, not necessarily a failing BB.
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Jun 7, 2022 22:55
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VelociBacon posted:When you take the pedal off and hold it by the threads and pull it around... Is there play? This should be pretty easy to isolate but the next thing to check is that the cranks are on tight, not necessarily a failing BB. Yes there is a bit of noticeable play and I can even get it to kind of click but only when I torque the pedal body hard on the axle. I checked the bolts on my left side crank arm, the side that feels like it is clicking, and went out for a ride and the bit of clicking is still happening. Maybe I should swap on my wife's pedals just to try to isolate the problem to the pedals or the crank/bb.
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Jun 9, 2022 02:24
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Guinness posted:Yes there is a bit of noticeable play and I can even get it to kind of click but only when I torque the pedal body hard on the axle. Yeah that's a good idea also if you're my age check your ankles knees and hips to see if the play is coming from there.
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Jun 9, 2022 03:34
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah that's a good idea also if you're my age check your ankles knees and hips to see if the play is coming from there. 
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Jun 9, 2022 03:57
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My Canfield balance's bottom bracket has been making a fair bit of popping and flexing noises, so I am finally starting the process of stripping the cranks off and cleaning the bb, have a new dub bsa bb but I'll see if it's just dirt in the threads making it creak The first step in the process is to order a new yt Capra so that I can ride it while my Canfield is out of order, right? Step 1 done 😎
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Jun 13, 2022 13:51
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah that's a good idea also if you're my age check your ankles knees and hips to see if the play is coming from there. Well the saga continues. I did a bunch of cleaning and maintenance today including a new chain and checking and tightening every bolt from the seat post/clamp to the pedals to the crankset to the cassette lockring. The tiny bit of play in the pedals may be a red herring after all, since after I tore them down, adjusted, and regreased them they seem mostly fine and spin super smoothly. I have not yet tried swapping pedals since my wife was using her bike, so I'll still do that if this ends up being a dead end. But some new symptoms started exhibiting on my most recent ride that may be related, or the root cause. I have a Brooks Cambium C17 saddle on the bike, and it has started significantly creaking and clicking under heavy flex in the back of the saddle where the top of the saddle joins with the rear of the rails. This seems like it might align with the clicking I'm experiencing, if it is getting transmitted through the seat post/tube and into the crank? Naturally, it is out of warranty at this point. Some quick googling seems like this is a somewhat common problem with these saddles due to their design: https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/1180691-clicking-brooks-cambium-c-17-a.html The rear rails are not actually connected to saddle (by design), and that seems to be what is causing the obvious creaking. There's really no adjustability here it seems, and I tried to get a little grease into the "socket", but no real change. I hate chasing stuff like this down, but maybe progress... I'll have to dig through my boxes of bike parts in the garage to see if I have an old saddle to swap. Edit: woooo I fixed it! Through the unscientific process of cleaning everything and then greasing and tightening every drat bolt and bearing on the bike from the saddle rivets down to the bottom bracket cups, the creaking/clicking is finally gone. I don't know specifically what the culprit was, but I am relieved and the bike rides like a dream. Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jun 20, 2022 |
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Jun 19, 2022 02:10
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The bottom bracket of my commuter suddenly started making horrible noises yesterday. I decided to open it up and, uh... one of these things is not like the other. I'm assuming I had it tightened too far to where it had lateral pressure on it. The non-drive side cup kept coming loose last summer and I'd put some blue loctite on and really jammed it in place. I thought I'd adjusted it properly from the other side, but it seems not. I was spinning at a high cadence in a tailwind when it happened, and maybe that was the last straw?Or it was just coincidence. Either way, it's new bearing time.
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Jun 20, 2022 03:14
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I’ve got a ~1mm stick stuck in my tubeless fat tire. Currently holding air. Put a plug in or unmount the tire and patch? I’d prefer not to reseat the bead.
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Jun 20, 2022 18:19
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Bike noob question. I bought a Giant Revolt 2 from my LBS back in November and it's been a ton of fun, already put like 2k miles on it having rode like maybe 1k miles total in my life beforehand. Bikes are good. I noticed this week when trying to figure out some rattling that my front brake cable had shifted and created a lot of wear on the front of the frame. I'm a gremlin so I don't really care about aesthetics but I wanted to check in if this sort of thing could create safety problems if untreated.  Giant has a 1-year warranty so maybe I should just go see if my LBS would do anything about it under warranty or otherwise. Also my level of maintenance knowledge is limited to changing tubes (not on this bike) and lubing chains, so maybe there's some obvious problem/solution? Thanks!
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Jun 23, 2022 18:05
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It's fine, they'd make it fall under normal wear and tear anyway. I put clear film on all my new bikes now in a couple places to prevent that as much as possible. Long term there might be a small chance you can wear through the cable housing/brake hose, but that would be years,
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Jun 23, 2022 18:16
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Maybe they will give you a bit of paint protection film for free.
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Jun 23, 2022 18:17
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FireTora posted:It's fine, they'd make it fall under normal wear and tear anyway. I put clear film on all my new bikes now in a couple places to prevent that as much as possible. Long term there might be a small chance you can wear through the cable housing/brake hose, but that would be years, CopperHound posted:Maybe they will give you a bit of paint protection film for free. Thanks both for the info! I did shift the cabling around a little bit (I think I might've caused this to happen when I was attaching something to the handlebar) so it should stay the same until my next visit to the LBS. They've been super great so I'll at least point the blemish out to them and they can have the opportunity to give me some film.
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Jun 23, 2022 18:45
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3M helicopter tape. if you really care get some touch up paint/nail polish then apply the tape over it once dried. This doesn't look it but if its deep you can use some clear epoxy to backfill then wetstand it to the same height as the surrounding material. It won't be perfect but it'll be solid. (going all out is using windshield repair kits or fabricobble something like it and pulling a vacuum on your epoxy job to remove any bubbles) Embrace the scratches and wear. Wearing the bike out is part of the fun.
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Jun 23, 2022 19:11
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Wifi Toilet posted:
Went asymmetric, time to find out how badly I hosed up my measurements. 
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Jun 24, 2022 00:30
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Wifi Toilet posted:Went asymmetric, time to find out how badly I hosed up my measurements.
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Jun 24, 2022 01:12
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CopperHound posted:I hope you have an overall positive experience. Building your own wheel can be a very rewarding experience. Thanks! So far, so good. Still need to true and tension them, but all parts are now in the shape of a wheel and I don't have any spokes sticking out the end of the nipples yet.  I may have had to redo the first 7 spokes on the second wheel after realizing I started on the wrong flange. Kind of regret not adding some bling to the build, they're looking kinda  I'd get some rim stickers off ali, but most of them are just brand names. They do have these pretty sweet skulls though, hmmm 
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Jun 24, 2022 03:40
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They look fine to me, don't put ugly stickers on!
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Jun 24, 2022 03:50
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Wifi Toilet posted:
Nice! What parts? Left wheel looks a bit screwy but could just be the angle of view.
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Jun 24, 2022 04:27
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sweat poteto posted:Nice! What parts? I think it's the angle, they aren't true yet, but only about 3mm side to side wobble. No idea how far the dish is off yet. Probably won't get a few more hours to work on them until the weekend. I might have taken this advice way too hard e.pilot posted:building wheels is fun, do something cheap for the first set and went with an aliexpress special: Rims: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256801171393414.html Hubs: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832783254314.html Sapim Race spokes and polyax nipples Wifi Toilet fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 05:11
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Can anyone point me in the right direction for what tool I'll need to remove this bottom bracket? 16 irregular internal notches, with 4 being bigger than the others. Internal diameter about 31.5mm. Bike was bought second-hand and I'm planning on adding a BBSH02 motor. I've referred to the Park Tools Bottom Bracket Tool Selection article and been googling for a while now, and haven't found an exact match yet. Am I overlooking something? Any leads?
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Jun 24, 2022 19:03
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I'm about 80% sure the 20 spline tool fits in there.
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Jun 24, 2022 19:41
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CopperHound posted:I'm about 80% sure the 20 spline tool fits in there. Nice that's still 16 splines
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Jun 24, 2022 19:48
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CopperHound posted:I'm about 80% sure the 20 spline tool fits in there. ahhhhhhh yeah almost certainly it. ordering a BBT-22 now. Thanks!
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Jun 24, 2022 19:52
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I just put on new rotors and jagwire sintered e-bike pads(only thing the local shop had in that form factor) on my bike. I have TRP hy/rds front and rear. I pressed the pistons back, centered the brakes, made sure the wheels are centered, double checked that the new and old rotors were the same thickness, even adjusted the pistons and set screws. Nothing I do will let the pistons retract enough for the pads enough to not rub on the rotors. Inner and outer pads are rubbing. I've pumped the brakes and detached and reset the cables as well. Is there anything else to try?
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Jun 25, 2022 22:26
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You'll have to visually align by looking down over the pads, hoping to see air on both sides of the rotor. I think there's a good chance that, with a mechanical cable, there's a lot of side force on the caliper, and the left pad is hitting at the front edge and the right edge is hitting at the rear. Or vice versa.
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Jun 25, 2022 23:03
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kimbo305 posted:You'll have to visually align by looking down over the pads, hoping to see air on both sides of the rotor. In case it helps, TRP Hy/Rd are cable actuated hydraulic calipers. They are fully resting on the rotors, front and rear. Not with a tremendous amount of pressure, but consistent. Loosening the mounting bolts and grabbing some brake while re-tightening them hasn't helped sadly.
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Jun 25, 2022 23:08
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Nyyen posted:In case it helps, TRP Hy/Rd are cable actuated hydraulic calipers. They are fully resting on the rotors, front and rear. Not with a tremendous amount of pressure, but consistent. Loosening the mounting bolts and grabbing some brake while re-tightening them hasn't helped sadly. I guess there's no lever adjustments? If you take the cable out of the caliper so it's fully relaxed, does it still rub?
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Jun 25, 2022 23:19
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VelociBacon posted:I guess there's no lever adjustments? If you take the cable out of the caliper so it's fully relaxed, does it still rub? Yep. It's as if it it could never fit new pads and rotors. I'm wondering if it is either an issue that requires bleeding the system, or perhaps e-bike pads are thicker?
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Jun 25, 2022 23:23
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Nyyen posted:I just put on new rotors and jagwire sintered e-bike pads(only thing the local shop had in that form factor) on my bike. I have TRP hy/rds front and rear. I pressed the pistons back, centered the brakes, made sure the wheels are centered, double checked that the new and old rotors were the same thickness, even adjusted the pistons and set screws. When installing hy/rds the calipers are aligned by mounting them with non-tightened bolts, and then tightening the screws while squeezing the brake lever hard. Then you release the lever and the rotor should spin freely. It is possible to bleed the hydro reservoir, but you do that when braking is spongy, not to solve a misalignment. If the hydraulic pressure is too low you would get the opposite problem I would think? (can't brake, pistons won't move out). Here's the manual for the brakes if you haven't looked at them yet, it includes a detailed guide for replacing the pads. Maybe you missed one when installing? It also contains instructions for bleeding. https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/HYRD_Final_053113.pdf
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Jun 25, 2022 23:35
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Are you able to screw in the locking bolt/screw? If you can't you might need to adjust the pushrod This video covers it https://youtu.be/BcZKtFI8Els
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Jun 25, 2022 23:54
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Skarsnik posted:Are you able to screw in the locking bolt/screw? Yep, tried adjusting the pushrod and locking screw, without luck. I'm honestly baffled since I haven't bled these in over 6~ years of ownership, gone through 2 sets of rotors and 3 sets of pads so far, and haven't had a single issue. I'm honestly hoping for a silver bullet before letting it be my LBS's problem.
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Jun 26, 2022 00:07
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Just checked the compatibility for those pads and they claim to fit, but yeah maybe they are just a bit thicker
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Jun 26, 2022 00:22
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