Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

You could experiment with Dynamesh in zbrush.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

EoinCannon
Aug 29, 2008

Grimey Drawer
I would probably just make a new subtool sphere/cube/suitable primitive, dynamesh it and sculpt it into shape to fill the hole, then merge it into the jacket and dynamesh them together, polish out the join. You could use an insert mesh brush to add in a primitive without having to bother with a new subtool. If you keep a copy of the jacket you can project your fixed, dynamesh version to it when you're done to recapture any detail lost in the dynamesh process. Store a morph target before you project and then revert any areas that don't project well with the morph brush

sigma 6
Nov 27, 2004

the mirror would do well to reflect further

Standard reprojection workflow:

1. Duplicate scan data subtool.
2. Dynamesh the new duplicate subtool to close holes. Make sure to dynamesh at a resolution between 800-1204 and up depending on detail.
3. Duplicate dynamesh subtool and zremesh that duplicate. Zremesh resolution is variable but the default is 5k polys. You may want to opt for 10k or more instead depending on detail.
4. Project detail back into zremesh subtool from dynamesh OR scan data subtool AS NEEDED. Make sure to mask off areas you don't want to project detail back into. Do this reprojection ONE subdivision at a time. Do not project detail at a high level unless you build up one level at a time. Do this by projecting THEN dividing THEN projecting - rinse, wash, repeat. Until you get all the detail back you need but now with better topology and no holes.
5. Smooth zremesh subtool as needed to repair mesh and / or get rid of unwanted noise.
6. Personally, I would smooth out the strap stuff completely at the lowest subdivision of the zremesh subtool.
7. Recreate strap with the curve strap brush. You will need to delete subdivisions to do this but you can always reconstruct the divisions later if you need to. Or you can add the strap to the dynamesh subtool alternatively. Point is that the curve / IMM brushes won't work with a mesh which has subdivisions.
8. Sculpt zremeshed coat with subdivisions so you can "erase" / smooth stuff out easier.
9. Delete the scan data and / or dynameshed subtool AS NEEDED. It might be a good idea to keep the original scan data on the bottom just in case. I have found this almost always helps if you want to reproject detail in later. There is also morph targets and a morph brush which will help getting detail back.
10. Fin. Enjoy an adult beverage if that's your jam.

Here is a video which goes over the same stuff roughly. It doesn't cover a jacket or strap but it does cover scan cleanup stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyvwFQVvllk

sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jun 27, 2022

EoinCannon
Aug 29, 2008

Grimey Drawer

sigma 6 posted:

4. Project detail back into zremesh subtool from dynamesh OR scan data subtool AS NEEDED. Make sure to mask off areas you don't want to project detail back into. Do this reprojection ONE subdivision at a time. Do not project detail at a high level unless you build up one level at a time. Do this by projecting THEN dividing THEN projecting - rinse, wash, repeat. Until you get all the detail back you need but now with better topology and no holes.


When it comes to protecting the detail back on I've done it one subdiv at a time and done it straight on the highest subdiv. Both seem to work for me so I'm wondering what the benefit of the first method is? It's good being able to store a morph on the highest level, project once, and then morph away any projection errors.

sigma 6
Nov 27, 2004

the mirror would do well to reflect further

EoinCannon posted:

When it comes to protecting the detail back on I've done it one subdiv at a time and done it straight on the highest subdiv. Both seem to work for me so I'm wondering what the benefit of the first method is? It's good being able to store a morph on the highest level, project once, and then morph away any projection errors.

Doing it one division at a time is more of a fail safe thing. Meaning - less chance of problems - especially on slower computers. You can adjust the projection one division at a time which allows for better correction. In case you need to move a lip or eyelid around during projection etc. Eyelids, and overhangs, notoriously get messed up during this process so it is a good way to be corrective about it as you move up in divisions. If you can go right for the highest level and you are confident about the strength of your machine vs. highest division polycount AND it looks good - then sure - but I find going one division at a time to usually be safer. The morph targets and morph brush are very helpful but only work on one division. The number of times I have had to fix eyelids makes projecting one division at a time worth the extra time IMO. For clothes or less exact stuff or stuff with no overhanging shapes / geo, I am not sure if it matters as much.

Also - anyone ever use these tablets?
https://www.xencelabs.com/us/product/xencelabs-pen-tablet-medium-bundle
Seems REALLY expensive compared to competition, however Pavlovich seems to really like it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70VM2DqcNeA

Given that Huion has a tablet with a screen built in it for much less money, I am very tempted to go Huion Kanvas over Wacom or Xencelabs.
https://store.huion.com/products/kamvas-13?vid=1051

Only thing deterring me is a good friend has the 4k 24 inch Kanvas and barely uses it. He claims he doesn't like the surface much but I think it has more to do with an overall preference to traditional mediums. For me it is more about having a good portable tablet vs. a touch screen computer like the Zenbook Duo Pro, so a 13 or 16 inch is fine. The Xencelabs has a lot going for it but price isn't one of those things. Also - I am left handed so do any tablets with built in screens have the ability to flip directions? I want buttons on the right vs. left hand of the tablet. Something tells me none of the tablets with screens can flip backwards to accommodate lefties. The old wacom tablets without screens could do this but that was years ago.

EDIT:

Looks like a lot of the Huion tablets have a left handed mode and can be flipped but I am still not sure about ones with screens built in.

Never seen a "digital ink" tablet before... hunh.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XC5D1K5?tag=bgfg-tabletcompare-us-20&th=1&psc=1&geniuslink=true

sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 27, 2022

Harvey Baldman
Jan 11, 2011

ATTORNEY AT LAW
Justice is bald, like an eagle, or Lady Liberty's docket.

One other dumb quick question.

I have a shape I need to reproduce digitally An approximation is fine as long as it looks the part.





I whipped a real quick approximation up in 3DS Max, but obviously the faces aren't properly planar.





Max has a 'Make Planar' button, so I can pick a polygon, hit it, and it'll flatten that side out. Problem is, as it is doing that it also deforms the adjacent shapes.

How can I model something like this so that I can keep the face 'cuts' clean and planar?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

There used to be a paper model unwrap plugin for max...name escapes me.

Sailor Dave
Sep 19, 2013

Harvey Baldman posted:

One other dumb quick question.

I have a shape I need to reproduce digitally An approximation is fine as long as it looks the part.

I whipped a real quick approximation up in 3DS Max, but obviously the faces aren't properly planar.

Max has a 'Make Planar' button, so I can pick a polygon, hit it, and it'll flatten that side out. Problem is, as it is doing that it also deforms the adjacent shapes.

How can I model something like this so that I can keep the face 'cuts' clean and planar?

Not sure about Max, but Blender has a Bisect tool that works really well for making these kinds of planar rock faces:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dbn0CQaibTs

Komojo
Jun 30, 2007

You could try using Boolean intersections. Any convex polyhedron can be constructed using intersecting planes. You can approximate an infinite plane with a really big cube.

Edit: Actually the bisect tool would probably be easier, just use that.

sigma 6
Nov 27, 2004

the mirror would do well to reflect further

For a second I thought you guys were talking about this.
https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

EDIT for content:





Better surface dev but still missing a seat and steering wheel.

sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Jun 29, 2022

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
Hey does Blender have an easy to implement option to have an animated camera always look at an object, and if so what would it be called?

Neon Noodle
Nov 11, 2016

there's nothing wrong here in montana

Listerine posted:

Hey does Blender have an easy to implement option to have an animated camera always look at an object, and if so what would it be called?

You can apply a Track To constraint to the camera

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Neon Noodle posted:

You can apply a Track To constraint to the camera

Fantastic, thank you.

Fragrag
Aug 3, 2007
The Worst Admin Ever bashes You in the head with his banhammer. It is smashed into the body, an unrecognizable mass! You have been struck down.
Anyone headed to SIGGRAPH in a couple of weeks? I'm happy to share that we can present our theatre company's performance Delirious Departures at the Immersive Pavilion! Feel free to drop by, check it out and say hi! I'll be the Asian guy running around making sure people don't walk into stuff.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I completely missed out the news of Zbrush's sale til they started mailing out discounted offers on Maxon subscriptions. What the gently caress.

Guess I'm staying with Zbrush 2022 til it's obsolete.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Synthbuttrange posted:

I completely missed out the news of Zbrush's sale til they started mailing out discounted offers on Maxon subscriptions. What the gently caress.

Guess I'm staying with Zbrush 2022 til it's obsolete.

Yup, or until they break your license and you can't get Maxon to fix it at their end.

Does anyone have any experience using a SpaceMouse from 3DConnexion? Does the dial let you zoom in and out instead of having to hold Alt and scrollwheel on a mouse?

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
At least for us C4D users we get zremesher in Cinema now!

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

xzzy posted:

If mechanical, look at the stuff from Keychron.

I picked up a small Keychron a few weeks ago, and it's been fantastic to use. I got a flat form factor with the mint switches and it's just been lovely, this was a great recommendation, thank you.

Taffer
Oct 15, 2010


Listerine posted:

Yup, or until they break your license and you can't get Maxon to fix it at their end.

Does anyone have any experience using a SpaceMouse from 3DConnexion? Does the dial let you zoom in and out instead of having to hold Alt and scrollwheel on a mouse?

It's been over a decade since I used one of these (with SolidWorks and Blender), but yes. They're pretty configurable so you can kinda do whatever you want, but full camera control with the main joystick thingy was very straightforward. I don't do the kind of modelling work I used to do to necessitate one for myself, but I'd highly recommend it if that's what you're doing. They feel really nice and are much more suited to that type of work than a typical mouse, though obviously you won't have the same 20+ years of familiarity. Buying the right tools to preserve the health of you hands, arms, shoulders, and back is invaluable.

Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

Cross postin' from the chicken thread. I'm remaking my photogrammetry guide website for my students. This is my example object:


Edit: I paid my 9 year old 50 cents a full captured rotation to shoot it. He was very thrilled to use my remotes.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I'm trying to make a model to 3D print in Blender and am running into a problem that I think will be solved by deleting face #2. I did a boolean union of the half cylinder and the rest of the model. The geometry looks like there should be three separate faces, but when I select it, it is all one face (light pink area). How do I split this into three faces so I can delete face #2?

In the image below, face orientation is turned on. The top face and two edge faces closest to the camera are hidden for clarity.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

K to knife cut

Or

Select the two vertices that an edge should be on and press j.

I dont trust booleans to make sensible faces though so id delete the face and build it myself by selecting all the bordering vertices and creating each segment with f

Jenny Agutter
Mar 18, 2009

Was the half cylinder just under the surface there or something? You could try booleaning it with a full cylinder instead

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Synthbuttrange posted:

K to knife cut

Or

Select the two vertices that an edge should be on and press j.

I dont trust booleans to make sensible faces though so id delete the face and build it myself by selecting all the bordering vertices and creating each segment with f

Maybe it is because I don't know what I am doing with the knife tool, or maybe my model is too screwed up, but the knife tool wasn't working.
Selecting the vertices and hitting J didn't do anything. I think maybe it was because the vertices aren't connected to the face or something. I don't know.
I took the third option and deleted the face then rebuilt everything and that seemed to work. The layers looked good in the slice. I'll find out in 8 hours when the print is finished.


Jenny Agutter posted:

Was the half cylinder just under the surface there or something? You could try booleaning it with a full cylinder instead

I used the magnet tool so the flat face of the half-cylinder was touching the face of the model, but I think that created two faces when I did the boolean union. It probably would have worked better if I did what you said and had the two objects actually intersecting when I did the boolean. Chalk it up as a learning experience.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Oh yeah perfectly coplanar faces and booleans are a bad mix

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Yeah, scale up your cylinder by like 1.01x and it should be fine.

Dick Trauma
Nov 30, 2007

God damn it, you've got to be kind.
:yooge:

https://twitter.com/JimMorren/status/1565290803358060545?s=20&t=tjZhGOWfiF8-NRAa9603iQ

Harvey Baldman
Jan 11, 2011

ATTORNEY AT LAW
Justice is bald, like an eagle, or Lady Liberty's docket.

In ZBrush, I was playing with the surface noise modifiers...



I'm noticing after I hit 'apply to mesh', the results I'm getting are substantially different than the preview. I'd be pleased as punch if I could keep the mesh looking like the preview. Is there a trick I'm missing to this?

EoinCannon
Aug 29, 2008

Grimey Drawer
I think the preview is showing the noise as a bump map type thing so it's not accurately visualising the real displacement. Also the preview is independent of poly count so it always looks sharper. Afaik it's just one of those ZBrush things, you fiddle with the values till you get what you want.

EoinCannon
Aug 29, 2008

Grimey Drawer
I sculpted 11 sharks and some various smaller pieces for a museum exhibition in Sydney, I can't show any zb stuff cos it hasn't opened yet but it got written up in a few papers

https://www.smh.com.au/culture/art-and-design/foam-fibreglass-and-fake-teeth-how-to-build-a-shark-20220830-p5bdz6.html

https://www.perthnow.com.au/local-n...ition-c-8014517

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

jesus christ thats a huge rear end printer

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

That's loving cool. Great sculpts and amazing paint-jobs. The finished sharks look lovely. It must be fun to work in a hybrid zone between digital and practical work. Do you guys do mammals as well? How do you handle stuff like fur?

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I think Eoin's also done a few animals for a park somewhere at least once, should be somewhere in the thread

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

EoinCannon posted:

Here's a thing I did a while back which is kind of fun cos kids can play on it
For those who are unfamiliar it's a small endangered Australian marsupial called a numbat, it was commissioned by a conversation group called Project Numbat
Modelled in ZBrush, mold cut out of foam with a 5 axis router and then cast in jesmonite by CDM studio in Perth

*edit* I changed the tail after those screengrabs, couldn't find any images of it though






here it is

EoinCannon
Aug 29, 2008

Grimey Drawer

anatomi posted:

That's loving cool. Great sculpts and amazing paint-jobs. The finished sharks look lovely. It must be fun to work in a hybrid zone between digital and practical work. Do you guys do mammals as well? How do you handle stuff like fur?

Yeah my day job is screen based so it's fun and satisfying to do things that end up being real. I do freelance stuff for CDM, not on the staff there I've only done a few mammals for print and most clients don't want cool, stylised hair with lots of volume cos they don't won't it to break if it's outside and being touched. Usually it's a kind of smooth linear groom. I use clay buildup for volume, then weave brush a bit and rake and just standard with a tight alpha on it.

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

I see! I find it heartwarming that your work ends up connecting physically with people (and especially children)
Thanks!

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
Smashing it as per usual. Great to see your new work!

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
This little project has consumed me entirely for the last 4 weeks, but now it's done.

https://vimeo.com/748129523/fa84008a3e

I shot all the footage on an inspire 2 with a coworker last year, we've been sat on it since. 4 weeks ago we had a shortlist of 30 ungraded shots and an absolute mess of revit models with no details. I was in charge of the footage, tracking, lighting & integration, and 4 people on my team worked on the model - cleaning it up, adding details, getting the trees, roads and paths in etc. It's been a pretty heavy lift!

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

cubicle gangster posted:

This little project has consumed me entirely for the last 4 weeks, but now it's done.

https://vimeo.com/748129523/fa84008a3e

I shot all the footage on an inspire 2 with a coworker last year, we've been sat on it since. 4 weeks ago we had a shortlist of 30 ungraded shots and an absolute mess of revit models with no details. I was in charge of the footage, tracking, lighting & integration, and 4 people on my team worked on the model - cleaning it up, adding details, getting the trees, roads and paths in etc. It's been a pretty heavy lift!



This is insane. Excellent work.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I'm following this tutorial and am hitting a snag when it comes to the displacement. I am in cycles GPU, have texture and bump selected in the settings. When I connect the texture node to the displace node, it just moves the entire plane up as if the texture was pure white instead of using the actual texture image. Any ideas?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzq4byOD4Ug&t=265s

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply