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ijyt posted:I've used the same bottle for like 4 years and it's still quarter full. Same
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Jun 29, 2022 23:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Mine was down to the part where the brush was barely touching the liquid after a year Pinching $4-$8 a year in a hobby of expensive miniatures just seems a little weird.
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Jun 29, 2022 23:21
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ijyt posted:Pinching $4-$8 a year in a hobby of expensive miniatures just seems a little weird. Makes sense to me, why buy more of a thing when I have a comparable thing? 
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Jun 29, 2022 23:31
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lilljonas posted:Yeah Tamiya's airbrush cleaner is pretty much the same stuff as their extra thin glue, just at a fifth of the price per ml or so. But at that point you can just buy acetone for your local drug store and use it anyway. Airbrush cleaner is... extra thin glue? What the gently caress?
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Jun 30, 2022 00:16
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chin up everything sucks posted:Airbrush cleaner is... extra thin glue? What the gently caress? I guess it would make sense if you're primarily spraying Tamiya acrylics, since their acrylics are alcohol-based rather than water-based, so maybe their brand of airbrush cleaner works better on cleaning those up.
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Jun 30, 2022 00:18
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chin up everything sucks posted:Airbrush cleaner is... extra thin glue? What the gently caress? Plastic cement is not a typical glue, it only works on very specific materials(certain plastics) via a chemical reaction where it melts the plastic and causes the pieces to fuse together.
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Jun 30, 2022 00:19
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chin up everything sucks posted:Airbrush cleaner is... extra thin glue? What the gently caress? Yeah it's literally just acetone and also acetone
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Jun 30, 2022 00:22
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Makes sense to me, why buy more of a thing when I have a comparable thing? People are talking about the idea of buying bottles of acetone and acetate and mixing your own plastic glue at home, not your entirely reasonable "can I pour one brand into the bottle of another brand?".
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Jun 30, 2022 00:37
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SiKboy posted:People are talking about the idea of buying bottles of acetone and acetate and mixing your own plastic glue at home, not your entirely reasonable "can I pour one brand into the bottle of another brand?". It's cool that people understand the mixtures and measurements, honestly unsurprising from artists that work with paint, in retrospect
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Jun 30, 2022 00:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:It's cool that people understand the mixtures and measurements, honestly unsurprising from artists that work with paint, in retrospect On the one hand, yeah, kinda, on the other, is anyone in this thread honestly doing that? I know someone posted a link to a scale modellers forum where some of them were, but those mental bastards strip paint with brake fluid and poo poo like that. I feel like you'd have to be going through a hell of a lot of plastic glue to make it worth your while loving around mixing solvents instead of just... buying another wee thing of glue. I've got a bottle of revell plastic glue for gluing big parts and tamiya extra thin for gluing delicate parts, and I think in the last 3-4 years this is my second bottle of revell and I'm less than a third into my tamiya. I'm all about saving money where possible, but sometimes the cost is so small and infrequent that I think its more sensible to pay for the convenience. The time I'd spend sourcing Butyl Acetate and mixing it with the acetone (in, please, a well ventilated area if you are going to do it, and do try not to spill it) is worth more to me than the £4.30 it would cost to get more glue (and thats Hobbycraft prices, and they are generally loving highway robbers). And thats assuming the acetone and butyle acetate cost zero. gently caress, I'd pay 4 quid just to not have to mix that in my house and give myself a headache. I'll cheerfully mix my own lahmian medium from artists matt medium, make terrain washes out of ink or craft paints, make my own wet pallete, use brushes I got at the pound shop or wish.com, and use tweezers and files I got at the hardware store instead of a hobby store, but I think I personally draw the line at mixing my own poly cement. I dont want to come off all charlie big potatoes here, but I can probably afford the average 2-3 pounds a year that I'm spending on plastic glue. Now, tell me you have a way of making your own superglue from household chemicals and I'm... realistically still not going to do that, I've stuck parts of models to my fingers too many times.
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Jun 30, 2022 01:32
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Another option for anyone wanting a cheap, bulk plastic cement option is Methyl-Chloride, also known as Dichloromethane. You can find it at shops for sign-making supplies, or special-effects suppliers if you have any sort of movie making industry where you live. It's not the exact same formulation as typical plastic cements for modeling, but it produces the same results. You can usually get a liter of it for about $15, which would be enough for a lifetime. One weird thing I noticed about it is that despite achieving the exact same results as Tamiya/Tenax/Ambroid/ etc, it doesn't mix well with hobby fillers. Like if you mix Tamiya extra-thin with their putty filler to make a nice spreadable slurry, if you mix Methyl-Chloride with Tamiya putty, it dries it out instantly. Weird, but otherwise as a plastic cement it works great.
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Jun 30, 2022 02:33
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how long should i let an oil wash dry before i should seal so i can highlight with acrylics? is 24 hours enough?
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Jun 30, 2022 03:25
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24 hours is usually enough if you wiped it down to a thin layer.
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Jun 30, 2022 03:52
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cool that's what i figured. usually wind up waiting a week but i want these on the table for the weekend
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Jun 30, 2022 04:01
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Might try cleaning up the lettering a bit on the scrolls, but otherwise my Ancient Rylanor inspired dreadnought is done. Quite pleased with how the hot coals/ashes base turned out!
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Jun 30, 2022 04:49
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jarofpiss posted:how long should i let an oil wash dry before i should seal so i can highlight with acrylics? is 24 hours enough? Ditto'ing that 24 hours is a good safe number, the thinner it was the faster it'll dry and be okay to work on. If you're working to a deadline a hair dryer can speed up the process but better safe than sorry.
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Jun 30, 2022 09:29
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Mine was down to the part where the brush was barely touching the liquid after a year To get a little more life out of the bottle you can actually pull the built in brush out to be a bit longer. I've also tried the thing were you add a bunch of leftover sprue frame to make a heavy gel, but I found it to be pretty clumsy for gap filling compared to other stuff
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Jun 30, 2022 09:45
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ijyt posted:Ditto'ing that 24 hours is a good safe number, the thinner it was the faster it'll dry and be okay to work on. If you're working to a deadline a hair dryer can speed up the process but better safe than sorry. i have a heat gun that just immediately melts any small resin parts every time i think to try and use it, i may just order a normal hair dryer. anyone use any quick drying mediums for their oil washes or just mineral spirits? i've only ever used medium to prolong drying for oil on canvas in the past. i'm still feeling out how i like the acrylic base + oil wash process and i'm realizing for miniatures maintaining momentum is more important for me than the ease/lustre of oil washes. i tend to work in batches of 3 models and the oil dry times really throw that process off. can't really increase the model count or i'll start missing spots and not having as much fun. i've been trying to push value on my old/midhammer models and i may just go back to the straight black/strong tone acrylic wash + highlighting layers if i can't get my process down without losing momentum. i know i can just stick with oils from then on after i wash with them, but then drying time before it hits the table pushes a week plus. it may just be that i haven't watched enough marco frisoni to figure out how he swaps back and forth. is it just that we don't really use enough oil on miniatures to create significant issues like you would on a different substrate if you start layering water-based over oil-based? i assume this would dramatically change if i start using oil washes on terrain?
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Jun 30, 2022 13:50
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Protip: if the drying time of oil washes is a concern, try switching to enamel washes instead. They have the same benefits of oil washes (in that excess can be removed with mineral spirits and a Q-Tip), with the added bonus of drying a lot faster. I've seen a few videos where people used AK Interactive Streaking Grime (or the Ammo by Mig equivalent) in place of an oil wash with no problems. I'm still experimenting, but I've been getting halfway decent results with the brown and black Tamiya Panel Liner washes I already had on hand, as well.
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Jun 30, 2022 16:10
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Protip: if the drying time of oil washes is a concern, try switching to enamel washes instead. They have the same benefits of oil washes (in that excess can be removed with mineral spirits and a Q-Tip), with the added bonus of drying a lot faster. I've seen a few videos where people used AK Interactive Streaking Grime (or the Ammo by Mig equivalent) in place of an oil wash with no problems. I'm still experimenting, but I've been getting halfway decent results with the brown and black Tamiya Panel Liner washes I already had on hand, as well. I’ve been experimenting on these as well. What kind of varnish do you put down before using them? I’ve tried future but it doesn’t seem very robust to the amount of scrubbing I have to do to get the partially dried wash cleaned up
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Jun 30, 2022 16:14
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jarofpiss posted:it may just be that i haven't watched enough marco frisoni to figure out how he swaps back and forth. Oil is usually my last layer, but if it isn't, I'll usually just wait for it to dry. If I don't want to wait, I chuck it in the oven for 20 minutes to dry it quickly. So, because of the relatively short drying time, you can paint with acrylics on top of it no problem. I use ink on top of oil all the time.
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Jun 30, 2022 17:02
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The other alternative to oil/enamel washes is to use an enamel varnish before you do your acrylic washes. If you use a non-acrylic varnish, any acrylic wash you put down can be wiped away exactly the same way oil washes can (except using a little airbrush cleaner as the solvent) without any risk to the underlying paint.
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Jun 30, 2022 17:17
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Hey you ever come across stuff you bought years ago and forgot all about? The other day I found some marines I bought and did a bit of work on in 2014 when I was totally going to get into historicals and lmao no I didn't. Pretty sure those were the last models I ever touched with a brush. So I finished them!     Some spots I could deffo have touched up a lot (like those bases goodness me) but whatever! I've not painted a drat thing since 2014 and I don't know if I even knew how to drybrush back then so I might as well be starting from scratch. Now I really need to figure out if I own a can of varnish...
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Jun 30, 2022 18:31
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re: oil washes, you can also get a similar effect with contrast paint and contrast medium, but you need to work really quickly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUd5GFXWGsI&t=677s I'd be interested in trying the same thing with Speed Paints, since you could reactivate it and swab it away with water to fix any mistakes.
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Jun 30, 2022 20:01
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Electric Hobo posted:I use oil washes, "real" oil paint, and straight drying oil on my minis. You're using so little paint that the drying time isn't really an issue, but it can still take so long that you're done painting for the day. I sure hope this isn't the same oven you use to cook food!
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Jun 30, 2022 20:13
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ijyt posted:I sure hope this isn't the same oven you use to cook food! I should probably build a small drying box, but I'm lazy.
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Jun 30, 2022 20:56
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Make a solar oven, it can double as a sixth grade Science Fair project
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Jun 30, 2022 21:12
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My drying box is a cardboard box sitting on my coffee table
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Jun 30, 2022 21:57
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Electric Hobo posted:I'm happy to help you get a little faith in goons back. It isn't! At work we have a tent with a heater that gets up to 140F because we've had issues with people turing in laptops infested with bugs and I was going to recommend something like that, but LOL it's $230
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Jun 30, 2022 23:41
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My pro-acryl starter came in today. Holy poo poo these pots are huge. Can't wait to try this out.
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Jul 1, 2022 02:13
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I just bought Marvel Crisis Protocol core and would like to buy some paints but I'm in Japan and the hobby paint section of the large store I went into was mostly focused on painting mecha models. As such they had Tamiya, Mr Hobby/Color, Gaianotes, GodHand and V Color products. Would any of these work or are there any other Japanese paints I could try? Or are they all pretty bad for beginners and I should look to import paints or look for a more niche hobby shop?
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Jul 1, 2022 02:19
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Apocron posted:I just bought Marvel Crisis Protocol core and would like to buy some paints but I'm in Japan and the hobby paint section of the large store I went into was mostly focused on painting mecha models. As such they had Tamiya, Mr Hobby/Color, Gaianotes, GodHand and V Color products. Would any of these work or are there any other Japanese paints I could try? Or are they all pretty bad for beginners and I should look to import paints or look for a more niche hobby shop? I'm also in Japan, but luckily have brought my own paints over (mostly vallejo). As long as the paints are acrylics it should be fine (elder painters please confirm). You might run into issues finding specific colors you want; in my experience the color range is limited. The small Yellow Submarine in Tachikawa carries Citadel paints if you want to pay the citadel premium and deal with the bottles. If you live in or close to Tokyo, there is a Games Workshop in Shibuya. Maybe. They also say there is one in Tachikawa inside the Donki but I could find it. I also know that Ikebukuro has a store called Warhammer, which I believe is just a Games Workshop too. Just won't show up on Google maps if you're looking for Games Workshop. If you want more niche stores they'll likely be in Akihabara or Ikebukuro. I used a Mr Clear Matte Varnish on one of my guys earlier this week and it seemed to work fine for varnishing him. You COULD order Vallejo (and others, by the looks of it, I mostly stick to Vallejo) paints from Amazon.jp but they will be almost double the cost of the same paints from the US. Edit- Sent you a DM Wrr fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jul 1, 2022 |
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Jul 1, 2022 03:12
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Apocron posted:I just bought Marvel Crisis Protocol core and would like to buy some paints but I'm in Japan and the hobby paint section of the large store I went into was mostly focused on painting mecha models. As such they had Tamiya, Mr Hobby/Color, Gaianotes, GodHand and V Color products. Would any of these work or are there any other Japanese paints I could try? Or are they all pretty bad for beginners and I should look to import paints or look for a more niche hobby shop? Well, how beginner is beginner here? Total blank slate, or do you know the basics of types of paint and so on? Pretty high overlap in what you want from paint for mecha models and for your typical wargaming stuff, so no issues there really. So long as you're not like, buying oil or lacquer paint without knowing what else you'll need for them, or a line meant for airbrush use, it'll be fine if you do a bit of basic research into the specific paint line first - for example, the Tamiya acrylics are generally good but are a bit finicky with being thinned with with water, since they're alcohol based (though, I only have a few, so might be more variable than my impression), so you'll want to adjust for that and get some suitable thinner.
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Jul 1, 2022 03:47
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Pretty blank slate. Painted years ago but even then I just used citadel paints and didn't know much about what I was doing apart from slapping paint on models.
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Jul 1, 2022 04:13
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Loden Taylor posted:re: oil washes, you can also get a similar effect with contrast paint and contrast medium, but you need to work really quickly. this is pretty cool, i'm gonna give this a shot
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Jul 1, 2022 04:16
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Don't know what they carry in Art Supply stores over there but I've replaced almost all my acrylic paints with just Liquitex Acrylic Gouache at this point and it's been going great.
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Jul 1, 2022 04:26
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This stuff? Are there any tutorials on using it for mini painting? It might be nice if it's craft store material since then I can use it for more than mini painting.
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Jul 1, 2022 04:35
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The ones I'm referring to are these ones:  It looks like the same thing though so it could be just Japan specific branding? On the official page it has 50 colours and my crappy katakana reading recognizes Prism Violet (S2) and Dioxaine Purple (S1) next to it so it seems like the colours match up. You just use it exactly like regular hobby paint except it's cheaper in bulk and higher pigment count and they tell you what pigments make up the paint so you're generally not surprised when Deep Turquoise mixed with Prism Violet gives you blue because the green and purple pigments cancel each other out leaving the blue behind. As for a video of it being used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwIOwAC1MWo Marco Frisoni has been using it as his go to acrylic paints for the last 3 months or so. There's nothing to it aside from blop it on a wet pallete and start painting.
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Jul 1, 2022 04:54
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So you don’t have to dilute it or anything? Seems like it’s worth a shot! Just buy a wet palette, some small brushes, a set of this and get started?
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Jul 1, 2022 05:18
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Well you gotta have some method of priming your plastic but yeah basically. With a wet palette you can thin paints by dragging some of the paint across the palette paper too.
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Jul 1, 2022 05:38
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