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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

i own every Bionicle posted:

The sins of the new WRX:

-body cladding
-no wagon
-CVT only if you want Recaros or good suspension
-no wagon
-no STI
-no wagon

Everybody who drives it says it drives great. There are big improvements over the VA, looks and options packaging aside. And at least one shop swapped that engine out of an Ascent into something and was able to make huge power with it, I think once the aftermarket gets into it it will perform awesome if that’s your bag.

I would buy one in black if I wanted a sedan.

Uhhh..... there is a wagon. And what new big improvements? The increase in engine capacity would be about it that are genuinely definable improvements

quote:

If you need additional capacity get a roof rack or hitch and slap some luggage carriers on it

Or just get a log roof / SUV / CUV and dont bother with such kludges.

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Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

Cross-posting from the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread, that escalated somewhat quickly.

I just got home from dealing with the aftermath of the voltage regulator crapping out. So I'm going to try to keep this as succinct as I can so I can clean up, down a beer, and get some sleep.

Basically, turning it off and on again stopped working and the voltage was reading 15 V at idle and would rise with engine revs. I wasn't going to dare take it past 3000 rpms as I was reading 18 V so I could basically only crawl with the car and uncomfortably since 18 V was about when the dash would light up. And of course this happens 40 miles from home and at 6pm when many auto repair shops around when I broke down in North Bergen were closing for the day. Managed to enlist the help of a good Samaritan from one of the shops to help me out and lend me his tools and skills as I had foolishly left my tools at home.

The plan started out with getting the battery to closest AutoZone which was a mile away and as it turns out up a rather steep hill. I figured to check the battery first because I could more easily take it there instead of the car without the aid of a flatbed. In addition to taking out the battery and concurring with me that the ground strap looked fine, my help also drove me to the AutoZone because gently caress lugging a car battery one mile up a hill.

Good thing too because it turned out the battery was pretty healthy. The AutoZone tech even ran the test a few times. At that point, I was at a complete loss because that meant the alternator is bad and needed to be replaced. I didn't realize how trivial replacing the alternator would be at the time so I felt like I hit a dead end and was going to need to get the car towed 40 miles back home. It also didn't help that I was parched with thirst so I walked over to the Walgreens in the same lot while walking over a couple of homeless people in the process. Then I get caught up in a really long line after getting a Gatorade and water because both cashiers were dealing with customers that had some issues with payment using coupons or vouchers or whatever because North Bergen isn't a nice place. It's not Newark bad but it looks like a predominately disadvantaged Hispanic population. I know I said I was trying to keep it succinct but I wanted to give context of what I was surrounded by while I was distraught.

After finally paying for my drinks and quenching my thirst, I meet back up with my new friend and get his opinion on what I should do next. At first, he said to I should get the car towed home. However, we turned our attention to the alternator and decided to check if this AutoZone had the alternator I needed in stock. As it turns out, they did have precisely one so I decided to go for it.

Roadkill-style, BABY!









And that did the trick. Didn't have a torque wrench on hand but we tightened everything as hard as we could just so I could drive home. It's also just so happened that I had bought a pair of six packs of alcohol-free Asashi beer from the near by Japanese grocery store. While it's alcohol-free, it's also imported from Japan as opposed to Italy. I just wanted to see if there was a discernible difference as I'm not fond of the Italian one though that may have to do with the beer not being cold enough because it didn't foam up when poured into a glass. I'm not a beer snob or an expert by any means but if Kaneko really digs it I figure I try it out. In any case, I gave the guy one of my six packs as thanks.

Aware
Nov 18, 2003
I currently have a Golf that I love but I'm quite happy to move up in size a bit to a Tiguan R probably.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Edward IV posted:

Cross-posting from the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread, that escalated somewhat quickly.

I just got home from dealing with the aftermath of the voltage regulator crapping out. So I'm going to try to keep this as succinct as I can so I can clean up, down a beer, and get some sleep.

Glad it worked out even if it took a few hours.

You know, you could have just disconnected the alternator and drove it home running purely on the battery. You wouldn't have been able to use your stereo or headlights or any accessories to speak of, don't even think to touch AC blower. But as long as the battery has a healthy charge, you can get an hour or two down the road, usually. It would essentially run like the alternator has failed the other way around, not putting out enough voltage, and everything electronic would slowly draw the battery down to whatever the low end cutoff is (9v~ area, I think).

Not a great idea, but it can work in a pinch.

Beeb
Jun 29, 2003
Anything in particular I should look out for on an '18 Legacy 2.5? Local dealer has one and it seems to be as good as I'm gonna get shopping around for a practical daily driver in southern Virginia.

Wistful of Dollars
Aug 25, 2009

https://i.imgur.com/ctQbTrA.mp4

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

Oh that's spiffy, thanks! Just placed an order for babby's first subawu :3:

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

2.5L can pull 2700lbs. 3.6L can pull I think 3200lbs. A teardrop is well within it's capability.

My hitch is a 2" 4k lb Drawtite. Seems pretty solid. Honestly, probably not a bad idea to just let someone else install it and figure that into your cost, usually isn't too expensive.

2013 is a weird year (I have a 13 base model w/ stick shift). There's a couple of recalls and some '13 parts are inexplicably more expensive than the rest of the generation (can someone explain why a flywheel for a '13 is double that of one for a '12 or '14?).

Also keep an eye on your seals (cam covers, oil pan, front cover), watch the oil level. If those are leaking at all, start saving for an ebay engine. Mine, the seals were so far gone and it had been run long enough while low on oil to gently caress up the cam gears. A newer (I think '15) $1500 engine off ebay was cheaper to swap in than to fix the old engine. Resealing the engine means pulling it anyhow, so the labor still hurts.

Good luck!

This is really helpful, thanks! I need to sit down and look at what has already been done and what needs to be done around 100k so it'll do another hundred more. I'm just real geeked to finally have a car that I've actually chosen to buy instead of just sort of lucking into other people getting rid of something I'd be stupid not to buy. It feels good to finally have a vehicle that's more than just sort of good enough, if that makes sense

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


I think I want to put my 04 Outback wheels on my 04 Impreza.

I have never used a different wheel size on a car.

I'll have to mentally adjust the speedo and can do the math.
I will have to check the wheels don't rub (any tips? Stationery, at speed, on jack stands, etc is stuff I don't know about)

What else am I missing?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


You can right size the tires to keep an equal circumference and not have to do math.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


Turns out I have uneven sizes front and back lol


toplitzin posted:

You can right size the tires to keep an equal circumference and not have to do math.
I'm not sure I can, really. The rims are very different sizes.

Also I probably won't go ahead with it. I wanted bigger wheels for a taller final ratio, since I have a long flat cruising stretch on my commute and I figured it'd save fuel.
Apparently that's way offset by the increased wheel weight on any hills or acceleration. So would be worse for fuel economy.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari

simplefish posted:

Turns out I have uneven sizes front and back lol

I'm not sure I can, really. The rims are very different sizes.



This can be really bad for your car if the tires are not all the same size. Suggest correcting immediately

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
The weight of the wheels for just daily driving has negligible effect on fuel mileage unless you're making it a donk or something. Just watch craigslist for a set of matching wheels, but make sure they're the right pattern for your year, because there are a few out there.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
That's a fast way to absolutely murder your center differential.

The towing king of Outbacks is the 10-14 3.6R at 3500lbs. It still has the 5EAT.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


Maybe it's supply chain, but I can find examples for sale locally so maybe not, but WRX sales are down by like 56% over the outgoing model. Subaru has a legit failure on their hands.

I fear though that they'll just kill the model rather than try to fix what people don't like.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Wrar posted:


The towing king of Outbacks is the 10-14 3.6R at 3500lbs. It still has the 5EAT.

It was the last generation with a stick option too, but only on the 2.5 so you're stuck pulling 2700 with a stick.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


daslog posted:

This can be really bad for your car if the tires are not all the same size. Suggest correcting immediately


Wrar posted:

That's a fast way to absolutely murder your center differential.


I don't actually have a centre differential


CRUSTY MINGE posted:

The weight of the wheels for just daily driving has negligible effect on fuel mileage unless you're making it a donk or something. Just watch craigslist for a set of matching wheels, but make sure they're the right pattern for your year, because there are a few out there.

What does making it a donk mean?
The main reason I was thinking bigger wheels had been for fuel savings

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


simplefish posted:

I don't actually have a centre differential



So you converted to 2wd?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
The weight difference between a 16 and a 17 inch wheel is a handful of pounds, if that, but let's just say it's 5 pounds per wheel for simplicity. That's 20 pounds in a 3k pound car. Are you carrying anything around you could shed for weight? Trash? Clothes? A case of soda or a bag of stuff you never use but just have in the car since forever? Because the weight difference is on the scale of that negligible.

And really, you don't have to buy wheels, just buy matching tires. Want slightly taller tires? Buy bigger ones.

Say, as an example, you have 215/55r16 tires, you could look at replacing them with 215/70r16 tires. However, larger tires might make contact with the fender or bumper while turning to lock. Typically there will be a maximum size (without modifications) listed in the owners manual. I realize you're probably thinking larger circumference is better, but think about the pickups with 35" tires compared to one with 29" tires. It takes more effort to turn a larger tire, any fuel savings you'd make up on the ratio, you'd lose in fuel consumption to make ever so slightly more power to turn it.

Realistically, if you want to get better mileage, it's better to work on your driving practices than throw $1000+ at a tenth of a mile per gallon problem. Unless you have money to burn in which case I'll take a check made out to cash. Are you going to save that $1000+ back 1/10th of a mile per gallon at a time?

This is a donk:



Do you have a BRZ? Because that would explain tire size weirdness, it's RWD. Every other subaru will have a center diff. If it has an AWD badge on it, it has a center diff.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

bull3964 posted:

Maybe it's supply chain, but I can find examples for sale locally so maybe not, but WRX sales are down by like 56% over the outgoing model. Subaru has a legit failure on their hands.

I fear though that they'll just kill the model rather than try to fix what people don't like.

Oh it's 100% gone if sales keep making GBS threads the bed, the no STI was the big flag here. Subaru have no interest in keeping the WRX alive.

Also the new WRX is *slower* than a GC8 from 30 years ago.


simplefish posted:

I don't actually have a centre differential


If you have an Outback, you have a center diff unless it's been spooled or removed.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


bull3964 posted:

So you converted to 2wd?

Factory 2wd

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:


If you have an Outback, you have a center diff unless it's been spooled or removed.

To be clear, taking the equally-sized wheels off my 4wd outback and onto my mismatched FF Impreza

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


CRUSTY MINGE posted:

The weight difference between a 16 and a 17 inch wheel is a handful of pounds, if that, but let's just say it's 5 pounds per wheel for simplicity. That's 20 pounds in a 3k pound car. Are you carrying anything around you could shed for weight? Trash? Clothes? A case of soda or a bag of stuff you never use but just have in the car since forever? Because the weight difference is on the scale of that negligible.

And really, you don't have to buy wheels, just buy matching tires. Want slightly taller tires? Buy bigger ones.

Say, as an example, you have 215/55r16 tires, you could look at replacing them with 215/70r16 tires. However, larger tires might make contact with the fender or bumper while turning to lock. Typically there will be a maximum size (without modifications) listed in the owners manual. I realize you're probably thinking larger circumference is better, but think about the pickups with 35" tires compared to one with 29" tires. It takes more effort to turn a larger tire, any fuel savings you'd make up on the ratio, you'd lose in fuel consumption to make ever so slightly more power to turn it.

Realistically, if you want to get better mileage, it's better to work on your driving practices than throw $1000+ at a tenth of a mile per gallon problem. Unless you have money to burn in which case I'll take a check made out to cash. Are you going to save that $1000+ back 1/10th of a mile per gallon at a time?

This is a donk:



Do you have a BRZ? Because that would explain tire size weirdness, it's RWD. Every other subaru will have a center diff. If it has an AWD badge on it, it has a center diff.

I'd be going from 185/60r14 to 215/55r17 or something, I'll double check the sizes tomorrow but I think that's right.

The tradeoff between needing to turn a larger wheel and the taller ratio giving lower rpm is something I'm interested in.

The wheels are free - they'd be coming off my outback which has eaten a head gasket and is currently uneconomical to repair.

It's a 2004 GG impreza, 1.5 SOHC, rear drum brakes.

Best fuel economy so far is 6.2l/100km, worst is 6.7l/100km - I was wondering if I could get it into the 5's


Thanks for the donk pic

simplefish fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jul 6, 2022

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Does the Outback wheel lug pattern match the Impreza? 4x100, 5x100, 5x114.3?

I didn't realize they made FWD Imprezas after the mid-90s.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


It is 5x about 100ish, I haven't measured it yet but it looks like about that and the internet says it should be the same between BP and GG body styles

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Okay. There's a point where Outbacks went to 114.3 but that's US, not sure when they made that change, but it was more recent than your cars.

Just as kind of a thought exercise, take a look at hybrids and compact economy cars and their wheel sizes. They typically come with 14-15" wheels. Manufacturers are encouraged to maximize fuel economy, so it would make sense that they would use the most economical sized tire to meet fuel economy standards. Typically increasing tire size, even width, will lower your fuel efficiency.

Wider tires have more surface area which gives you more traction and grip, but also more rolling resistance because it has a larger contact patch than a smaller tire. It takes slightly more effort to get that tire rolling.

If you're thinking about the pure math end of it, that a larger tire circumference will rotate fewer times over the same distance as a small one, you're right, but you lose the efficiency when the engine has to burn slightly more gas to turn them, and it becomes very obvious on something like a 4cyl pickup going from street tires to giant mudders. Larger tires just require more effort to turn.

Fuel economy specific tires (think made for hybrids) tend to be narrow and small to reduce contact patch and rolling resistance. Less rolling resistance, less fuel burnt to turn the tire.

A 185/60x14 is 22.7"~ tall. A 215/55x17 is 26.3"~ tall. That's about a 12% increase in tire height. You'll want to make sure you have clearance for about 2" extra tire in the wheel well. And another 1.3" of width. Turn the wheel to lock and see how much space you have between the tread and anything it could clip.

If it's a means of saving some money from buying tires immediately, give it a try, but I think you'll see slightly worse fuel economy, but the kind you could overcome with more effective speed and braking management to maintain momentum.

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

Just to follow up on my roadside alternator replacement adventure, it turns out that there were signs that the alternator was on the path to breaking as far back as when I bought the car over two years ago. The battery light on the dash aka the "Charge Warning Light" would stay on after a cold startup but turn off after pulling away or I guess giving it enough throttle. I didn't give it much thought because it would go away on its own fairly quickly, the Cobb unit was generally giving normal readings, and, being that this is my first manual Subaru, I thought that was just a thing that they do. As a result, I never looked up in the manual to see what that light signified or took it as an actual warning. Oops.

So in short, I'm an idiot but a lucky one at that between finding a total stranger that was willing to help me and that the local AutoZone had just one replacement on hand.


I guess while I'm discussing maintenance disasters, is there anything that I need to keep on top of besides fluids and eventually tires at 230k miles? As per the PO, maintenance performed as follows or two years prior to my ownership:

-Timing belt/water pump/plugs @ 212k
-New turbo @ 215k
-Sway bar end links
-Oil control valves
-Cam sensors
-New struts @ 218k
-New brakes @ 220k
-ACT clutch and flywheel @ 220k

To add on top of that with my own "maintenance" in addition to the alternator, a new rear prop shaft and rear brake lines a few months after I bought the car.

Also on the topic of tires, the speedometer being off because of the larger(?) tires (the wheels are OEM) is a tad bit annoying. Is it worth sticking with the current type of tires (225/50/16 Hankook Ventus V2) and recalibrating the speedo (or just living with it) or going with different tires of a more appropriate size? I'm not badass enough or drive frequently enough to warrant having summer and winter tires so, as sacrilegious as it is, I'm fine with a good set of all seasons.

MY INEVITABLE DEBT
Apr 21, 2011
I am lonely and spend most of my time on 4Chan talking about the superiority of BBC porn.
im getting this weird whining noise from my 2009 forester. i hear it from the middle of the dash, A/C on or off doesnt matter, super inconsistent. can go weeks or months without hearing it, then itll whine for like 30 seconds at varying volume and pitch. at speed only. kinda sounds like plastic on plastic. idk how else to describe it. but im at a loss i have no idea how to start diagnosing this with how wildly inconsistent it is. anyone experienced this? i dont think it's alternator whine cause it doesnt have that mechanical kind of noise to it.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Gonna piss in some wind and guess it could be in this rat's nest. Shouldn't be much to make a plastic on plastic noise behind the dash than the servo motor in the cabin fresh air inlet.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/78742455__7628363/HEATER-SYSTEM-BLOWER/B16-720-05.html#72223C*D

Try switching from recirculate to fresh air a few times and listen for the servo opening and closing. You should be able to do it with the engine off, key on. If it sounds the same, it may be on it's way out. Might be a loose connection.

Could also be an obstruction so the door can't fully close sometimes, which could make the servo whine until it just overheats and cuts out.

CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jul 7, 2022

MY INEVITABLE DEBT
Apr 21, 2011
I am lonely and spend most of my time on 4Chan talking about the superiority of BBC porn.

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Gonna piss in some wind and guess it could be in this rat's nest. Shouldn't be much to make a plastic on plastic noise behind the dash than the servo motor in the cabin fresh air inlet.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/78742455__7628363/HEATER-SYSTEM-BLOWER/B16-720-05.html#72223C*D

Try switching from recirculate to fresh air a few times and listen for the servo opening and closing. You should be able to do it with the engine off, key on. If it sounds the same, it may be on it's way out. Might be a loose connection.

Could also be an obstruction so the door can't fully close sometimes, which could make the servo whine until it just overheats and cuts out.

no results on this so far, but i appreciate it imma keep trying it

net work error
Feb 26, 2011

This is more of an audio question but I need to replace the speakers in my base VA since the front door ones seem to have gone and was considering the OEM Kicker option but online the consensus seems to be that they are clearer but not much better sounding.

Would it be worth it to look into getting the Harmon Kardon system from a partout limited or is aftermarket the better option? My concern is that it looks like the main issue is the head unit not being up to the task so doing any decent upgrade would require a whole lot of part changes.

Anyone use either the Kicker speakers or have a limited with the HK system that can comment on the quality or sound?

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'm no audiophile, but the HK system is decent from an OEM standpoint. I only listen to XM radio and the original Top Gun soundtrack CD and have no complaints. I'd wager any aftermarket system will be better. If you can find the whole system from a wreck or partout, great, it might be easier to install, but aftermarket is way more flexible. Starlink is awful, app implementation is embarrassing and downright useless.

MY INEVITABLE DEBT
Apr 21, 2011
I am lonely and spend most of my time on 4Chan talking about the superiority of BBC porn.

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Gonna piss in some wind and guess it could be in this rat's nest. Shouldn't be much to make a plastic on plastic noise behind the dash than the servo motor in the cabin fresh air inlet.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/78742455__7628363/HEATER-SYSTEM-BLOWER/B16-720-05.html#72223C*D

Try switching from recirculate to fresh air a few times and listen for the servo opening and closing. You should be able to do it with the engine off, key on. If it sounds the same, it may be on it's way out. Might be a loose connection.

Could also be an obstruction so the door can't fully close sometimes, which could make the servo whine until it just overheats and cuts out.

actually scratch that, you might be onto something here. i tried this today and the noise immediately quit a few different times when i turned off recirc. thanks for the lead!

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
I wonder if a twig or something got down the fresh air vent and is now wedged in the passage. At least it sounds like you're on the right track. And foreign objects in the vent system isn't exactly uncommon.

ishikabibble
Jan 21, 2012

How overrated is the whole bit about the Crosstrek being 'slow'? Specifically with a stick.

I'm coming from a 1987 Corolla FX16 that I'm more than used wringing every last drop of power to go too fast in, so I'm not expecting like modern sports car fast, but... I've had some pretty gutless rentals lately.

Mostly interested because it's one of the very few cars you can get new/new-ish with a stick that still has some offroad capability and doesn't get 18mpg (hello Tacoma).

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Everyone just wants one with a turbo. They're fine, no slower than a civic or corolla or whatever. You probably won't find yourself too worried about it coming from an 80s toyota.

rich thick and creamy
May 23, 2005

To whip it, Whip it good
Pillbug

ishikabibble posted:

How overrated is the whole bit about the Crosstrek being 'slow'? Specifically with a stick.

I'm coming from a 1987 Corolla FX16 that I'm more than used wringing every last drop of power to go too fast in, so I'm not expecting like modern sports car fast, but... I've had some pretty gutless rentals lately.

Mostly interested because it's one of the very few cars you can get new/new-ish with a stick that still has some offroad capability and doesn't get 18mpg (hello Tacoma).

Coming from a 1.5L Scion xB MT to a 2.0L Crosstrek MT, you won't win any races but it has enough pep to get out of its own way.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
Our 2.0 CVT Crosstrek is perfectly acceptable for a family car. It's not fast by any means, but it's got no problem keeping up with traffic. The CVT is fine, but if you're used to manuals you'll be disappointed with how it shifts (or doesn't).

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
FWIW Jason Fenske of Engineering Explained has an older CrossTrek MT (or at least he still had it, last I saw. He also had a M3P and ND2 Miata at that point in time)

I wouldn’t buy one without driving it first, but it can’t be slower than 90% of the base model manual transmission cars people remember fondly from 1-3 decades past

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Am I right to assume that LGT/WRX D25 heads (decked .005) on a new sti 257 shortblock will get around 8.66-8.7 compression ratio?

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

ishikabibble posted:

How overrated is the whole bit about the Crosstrek being 'slow'? Specifically with a stick.

I'm coming from a 1987 Corolla FX16 that I'm more than used wringing every last drop of power to go too fast in, so I'm not expecting like modern sports car fast, but... I've had some pretty gutless rentals lately.

Mostly interested because it's one of the very few cars you can get new/new-ish with a stick that still has some offroad capability and doesn't get 18mpg (hello Tacoma).

A manual Crosstrek isnt what I call that slow, it's fine. Honestly it's kinda a fun car and the manual XT my ex partner had was a good thing to drive.

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Aware
Nov 18, 2003
Picking up the 2022 WRX RS tomorrow, haven't had a Subaru since my first car, a 1985 Leone. It was red so it went pretty fast.

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