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Tremors posted:I've been playing around with homemade bi-color filament. It's pretty neat if you don't need to print anything too big. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3565827 This is extremely impressive
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Jul 5, 2022 16:02
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a good go-to calculator for pricing 3d prints? Prusa actually provides a pretty decent calculator! https://blog.prusa3d.com/3d-printing-price-calculator_38905/ But generally when people ask me to print things I just choose 3x-4x the filament cost, rounded to an even dollar, and then throw shipping on top I'm probably undervaluing my time but I'm saving myself the time of doing math to figure out what my time is worth, and therefore saving money on these jobs 
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Jul 5, 2022 16:44
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Yeah I just wish it was a little faster for the end or three pro, but I’m not gonna lie that demo cat may have taken six hours but it really looks like nice. Like honestly the best thing I’ve had printed yet by far. The demo gcode runs really slow, if you sliced that same model properly you could double that speed. e: oh yeah the first thing you'll wanna do to an ender 3 pro is replace the bed springs, I use silicone grommets instead. You'll also need a better extruder, the stock one inevitably cracks.
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Jul 5, 2022 16:50
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Sockser posted:Prusa actually provides a pretty decent calculator! That is perfectly fine pricing for a hobbyist! You may want to throw some machine time on there, because strictly per-gram pricing hosed me hard on a voroni vase once. I'd still recommend an order minimum, because even if your pricing and machine time holds, it's still annoying as poo poo to get paid $1.93 for a trinket of some sort, since the startup and teardown is fixed.
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Jul 5, 2022 17:23
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How does one get into selling prints?
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Jul 5, 2022 17:59
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ilkhan posted:How does one get into selling prints? The ones that I've sold, which really hasn't been a lot, has been posting what I've printed on my instagram/facebook and having people reach out to me asking how much to print one of whatever I posted for them. When I first got my prusa I made enough to basically pay for the printer and some extra.
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Jul 5, 2022 18:05
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bird food bathtub posted:So a good ways back I asked about my resin prints getting a gummy layer of grime on them after prints. It was initially thought to be dirty IPA. As a result I was absolutely religious about filtering my IPA and it was still happening. I eventually started using a tooth brush to scrub everything I printed clean before curing and that was working, though it was tedious.This weekend I've finally found the culprit. Huh. I’ve started giving the print plate a couple of shots of ipa in a spray bottle. And then letting them drip a bit. It really cuts down the IPA cloudiness. Oh, and don’t do it over your vat.  I have a foil pan I use for it to drip into.
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Jul 5, 2022 23:16
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ilkhan posted:How does one get into selling prints? What can change the nature of a man? But really, that’s a massively open question. Why are you thinking about it? Supplement income? Pay for printers and materials? Print cool stuff for people?
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Jul 5, 2022 23:20
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Missing the glory days of 3dhubs hurts, doesn't it?
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Jul 5, 2022 23:26
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Any obvious speed/acel changes I should be making on my ender 3. I've honestly just been running stock speeds since day 1
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Jul 5, 2022 23:40
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Making speaker enclosures sounds rad as hell, I'd like to see one.
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Jul 5, 2022 23:40
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I finally tried some cubes on my Prusa Mini in some 2 year old PC Blend that I haven’t broken out in about as long. Within 250 microns in every axis - I’m pretty drat pleased about that!
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Jul 5, 2022 23:47
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The Demilich posted:Making speaker enclosures sounds rad as hell, I'd like to see one. Working on it!
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Jul 6, 2022 00:58
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Ender 3 was too drat loud and slow. It did work, but eh I’m just getting a V2 or something more upgraded. Also the clerks at micro center looked at me like I was a nut for saying I use glue on my bed…I though that was normal? They also said the auto levelers didn’t really work well and you’d still need to do regular manual adjustments…sigh is that true?
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Jul 6, 2022 01:53
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Ender 3 was too drat loud and slow. It did work, but eh I’m just getting a V2 or something more upgraded. V2 is so much quieter that you realize how drat loud the fans are. Glue Stick is still widely used, but less so with PEI and other surfaces on magnetic plates being the norm. Auto bed leveler sensors work fantastic and I just do a "screw level" which just hits the 4 points over the screws and tells you how far to move them. This is just to undo any screw wander from when you originally measured the Mesh. I rarely do it and the most it's been out is like 1/8 of a turn, which doesn't matter at all. I can't speak for other systems, but this is with Fluidd Klipper on an ender 3 with a knockoff triangle labs ABL.
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Jul 6, 2022 02:05
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Thanks, I feel a bit better, part of the issue was the crappy magnetic cover was damaged from issues with calibrating, so it was one of those returns (one time exception) where you get looked at like a weirdo and the manager comes over. I guess I can’t blame them concerning my different purchases I’ve made over the past few months and returned, it’s just goddamn it is hard to find either a really good 3-D printer I’m happy with and then not have it have any defects like a bum SD drive or other things.. After that I didn’t even try to return the Glass bed I got since it was covered with glue stick. I’ll just keep it as an emergency backup. They said if I could get it cleaned off I could return it. So yeah that was a dejecting experience. I don’t care though because it is such a fun hobby and even from all of these failures I’ve still learn stuff, like now I actually know how to swap out a nozzle and I’ve done it. It is kind of weird though how 3-D printers are like the inverse of normal maintenance for well anything, being that most electronics want it to be powered off and cooled down, before you do any work on it.
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Jul 6, 2022 02:16
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Missing the glory days of 3dhubs hurts, doesn't it? You mean Hubs, the Xometry competitor?
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Jul 6, 2022 13:59
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hello friends! I'm joining the hobby. I have a several year old ender 3 pro now that I bought off a buddy for 100 bucks since he upgraded to a bigger printer, and after loving around with it for a couple days I have it pretty dialed in. before/after   im pretty happy since i have no clue what im doing, but i did some research and replaced the nozzle, cleaned the bowden tube/headend out, calibrated the e-steps, burned my fingers a ton and bam, it printed amazingly. Feels good.
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Jul 6, 2022 14:48
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sharkytm posted:You mean Hubs, the Xometry competitor? Yup, once upon a time anybody with a 3d printer could sell time and material on their machine and ship parts out and the calculator the site used by default wasn't too bad. Then a bunch of assholes started underbidding other folks at a loss and submitting jobs and then leaving bad reviews on otherwise good printer owners, it got bought by somebody and turned into another site where you submitted things to larger businesses for quotes like Shapeways.
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Jul 6, 2022 15:29
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yup, once upon a time anybody with a 3d printer could sell time and material on their machine and ship parts out and the calculator the site used by default wasn't too bad. /S Yeah, I miss the old 3dhubs. That being said, I've used hubs for a bunch of machines parts and they've done well for me. I compare their prices with Xometry and choose whoever is cheaper/quicker.
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Jul 6, 2022 15:33
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question for anyone whos printed dungeon tiles before. what can i do for prints where its legit printing over open air: this is the dungeon tile from openforge, and at that step it just prints over open air, and when it hit that part it printed and just drooped down into the area between the supports. People print these so there must be a setting or something im missing? some people say theyve printed with like 5% infill which seems impossible.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:06
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I've printed a bunch of openlock and I'm not really clear on what part of the tile that is? Just a 4x4 E panel? some sort of water effect? PLA? It bridges fine, just add more top solid infill if you don't want to increase overall infill at least to 15%. you can also decrease your bridging speed or add more fan. Edit: are you getting pillowing? look that up and see if it looks like what's going on with you Vaporware fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 6, 2022 |
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Jul 6, 2022 17:12
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ah its just the color for bridge infill in prusaslicer. its just that its not bridging, its just trying to print over open air and it just... drops filament into the hole between supports lol.  thats the one i just printed.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:16
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queeb posted:hello friends! I'm joining the hobby. I have a several year old ender 3 pro now that I bought off a buddy for 100 bucks since he upgraded to a bigger printer, and after loving around with it for a couple days I have it pretty dialed in. Very cool, my dude. I am about the same in how I get my E3 V2 dialed in. I don't know how I did it, but it works.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:23
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks, I feel a bit better, part of the issue was the crappy magnetic cover was damaged from issues with calibrating Do you mean the PEI bed surface? That's pretty normal, I think everyone burns the poo poo out of them when they first learn to level a bed. Start with glass imo. Better yet, get something with a bed probe and pay strict attention to your starting z-offset. Also, if you do start again with glass, don't bother with glue unless you're printing PETG. Just make sure it's super clean, use dish soap.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:26
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queeb posted:ah its just the color for bridge infill in prusaslicer. its just that its not bridging, its just trying to print over open air and it just... drops filament into the hole between supports lol. if you let it finish it will end up puckered between supports. That's called pillowing. You have to either add more top layers or more infill.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:51
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queeb posted:ah its just the color for bridge infill in prusaslicer. its just that its not bridging, its just trying to print over open air and it just... drops filament into the hole between supports lol. I've done tiles with gyroid at 5% fine. First layer or 2 on top might be funky, but worst case another top layer of 2 should do the trick. Otherwise try dialing in filament to improve bridging (increase cooling?)
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Jul 6, 2022 18:09
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w00tmonger posted:I've done tiles with gyroid at 5% fine. First layer or 2 on top might be funky, but worst case another top layer of 2 should do the trick. ill give it a try with gyroid and just let er rip.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:19
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queeb posted:ah its just the color for bridge infill in prusaslicer. its just that its not bridging, its just trying to print over open air and it just... drops filament into the hole between supports lol. That's completely normal. After four layers or so it should be perfectly flat. You certainly can't just leave a single layer on top of infill and call it solid though.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:38
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yeah i stopped that print early because i was freaking out. but im letting one run now and its completely fine after like 3 top layers. 3d printing is stressful.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:57
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Seems like an opportunity for slicer improvement, make it always bridge to the nearest infill instead of trying to print cantilevers
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Jul 6, 2022 18:59
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I use adaptive cubic infill. It’s supposed to make the internal fill smaller for areas that need bridging’s
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Jul 6, 2022 19:02
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here's the result of that print: thats with 5 top layers. Looks like im under extruding maybe a bit on the top? maybe ill try printing a bit hotter, that was at 200.
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Jul 6, 2022 19:06
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queeb posted:here's the result of that print: 200c should be more than fine for PLA. It does appear like under extrusion. Not sure how you calibrated that, or if you saved the new value in firmware.
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Jul 6, 2022 19:09
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i think i did my e-step calibration and calibration cube at 210, and this print in cura defaulted to 200 so, possibly that? also its an old printer, and i think the gear on the extruder motor thing is pretty worn. i ordered a new metal one that should come today so that may help as well.
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Jul 6, 2022 19:11
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I much prefer Prusa Slicer over Cura from the perspective of "Cura is doing weird poo poo again". I started writing a post getting into the weeds on how you can confirm your extruder calibration is still actually applied but I don't know how you set it. I'll advise changing one thing at a time so you're not making weird changes that hamstring you later.
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Jul 6, 2022 19:24
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i set mine via the e-steps/mm right on the ender 3 firmware, and stored settings. i believe it was 113.6 or something. its mid print but ill verify it saved after. and yeah, prusa seems really good from what i tried of it. i saw that cura has dynamic layer adjusting which is neat, but looks like prusa can manually do it?
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Jul 6, 2022 19:25
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M503 should spit out the settings and you can confirm it has the correct steps per mm for E
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Jul 6, 2022 19:27
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uhh yeah. so i stored the settings when i changed it, though i turned off the printer last night and i guess it didnt actually store it? it was back to 93. that'd do it.
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Jul 6, 2022 20:20
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queeb posted:uhh yeah. so i stored the settings when i changed it, though i turned off the printer last night and i guess it didnt actually store it? it was back to 93. The only way to fix it ultra permanently is to recompile marlin and flash the updated firmware to the control board. For now it will be significantly easier if you just put a M92 E### into your start g-code in the "printer" settings in prusa slicer.
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Jul 6, 2022 21:07
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