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SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
For God's sake, nobody install your lock bracket on your fork

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Jazz Marimba
Jan 4, 2012

SimonSays posted:

For God's sake, nobody install your lock bracket on your fork

you got a reasoning? cuz manofteflon is a bike mechanic and signed off on it, and we both did a test ride before keeping it and it didn’t affect handling at all, let alone in a meaningful way

God Hole
Mar 2, 2016

i think simonsays is more concerned with avoiding this type of situation

marshalljim
Mar 6, 2013

yospos

Invalido posted:

I don't think I have seen any review from the man of a foldable lock he found acceptable. They're very practical though, I like them too. I bought an Abus Granit partly because it took him about a full minutes to defeat it which he seemed to think was pretty good. In reality your average bike thief can't pick locks and it's mainly about not being the lowest hanging fruit. Nothing portable will defeat a modern cordless angle grinder after all.

Do bike thieves EVER pick locks? I enjoy LPL's videos, but his results seem kinda irrelevant to most, given, as you say, the ubiquity of angle grinders and such.

I guess you'd want to avoid locks so bad they can be popped with a pen cap or whatever, just to be safe. Maybe there are thieves who have lockpicking skills and specifically target the kinds of bikes that end up with heavy chains or high-end locks on them? I've never heard of ANY bike lock getting picked, personally, but maybe that's a city specific thing (an issue in NYC, perhaps?).

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

abraham linksys posted:

* How do yall carry locks? I see that the Kryptonite locks come with a bracket, though if I get two locks, that's basically shoving 10 pounds of extra weight on the bike as I ride it. Does this get annoying in practice?
Not my pic, but I carry like this

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
you can also just jam it in your pants in the back and it doesn't go anywhere

Al2001
Apr 7, 2007

You've gone through at the back

Chillyrabbit posted:

The brackets that come with the kryptonite locks are terrible and move around a lot no matter what.

This is mainly true but they work great on my steel touring bike, I have to tighten it every so often on my aluminium bike. Still seems more practical than wearing it or janking it onto the rack but each to their own.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

marshalljim posted:

Do bike thieves EVER pick locks? I enjoy LPL's videos, but his results seem kinda irrelevant to most, given, as you say, the ubiquity of angle grinders and such.

I guess you'd want to avoid locks so bad they can be popped with a pen cap or whatever, just to be safe. Maybe there are thieves who have lockpicking skills and specifically target the kinds of bikes that end up with heavy chains or high-end locks on them? I've never heard of ANY bike lock getting picked, personally, but maybe that's a city specific thing (an issue in NYC, perhaps?).

This is pretty much my reasoning. I'm sure there's a skilled lock picker somewhere who steals bikes but I'm equally sure it's uncommon. I can't realistically resist a determined angle grinder attack from a brazen enough thief but I can at least resist quieter, less sparky methods which is why I bother with a quality u-lock even though there are more convenient solutions. LPL doesn't just prove his mad picking skills at every opportunity but also shows what can be done with all sorts of simple tools for unskilled attacks on bad designs which I think is valuable. Case in point:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zs8uyPsDaw0

abraham linksys
Sep 6, 2010

:darksouls:
bike shop i got my bike at just went ahead and recommended i get https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/products/product-information/current-key/002079.html?type=bicycle. since i have a hybrid bike he was like "oh yeah you absolutely gotta protect both wheels" but he figured doing a double u-lock would be slightly overkill :shrug:

did go ahead and register it and get the anti-theft offer and all that stuff

e: ok, the one problem my bike shop guy didn't think through was that this u-lock is really hard to get around my frame, wheel, and a bike rack at once, it's small! i think this is like the only one they had that came with the cable so i get why he pointed me to it, and i think i can make it work, just takes a somewhat embarrassing amount of finagling

it was cheap enough that i could down the road just upgrade to double u-locks and use this for my front lock though, not the end of the world

abraham linksys fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 1, 2022

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I don't remember the rubber shim clearly but my last kryptonite bracket (with the fabric band) was solid the whole time. Being able to change the angle really helps find a spot.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

abraham linksys posted:

e: ok, the one problem my bike shop guy didn't think through was that this u-lock is really hard to get around my frame, wheel, and a bike rack at once, it's small! i think this is like the only one they had that came with the cable so i get why he pointed me to it, and i think i can make it work, just takes a somewhat embarrassing amount of finagling
You can do this and be just about as safe without reaching around the frame.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

God Hole posted:

i think simonsays is more concerned with avoiding this type of situation

if you mount it forward of the fork it can't do this.

I wouldn't do it with a floppy u-lock, but with a lightweight & solid one it's fine. just don't do it on a carbon fork!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

a single speed from critical cycles (now retrospec) came up on craigslist. any thoughts on this brand?

I'm going to give it a try in a bit, the gear ratio is kind of high though (46/16) so we'll see how it goes

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jul 7, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

this is the bike, I think he's charging too much, but the frame size was a perfect fit for me when I tried it out.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-critical-cycles-single/7502314468.html

it's a 46x16 gear ratio, so I can see it being a bit of a pain starting when going up any sort of incline. Is it pretty easy to have the 46 replaced with a 42 or 40? I would imagine that I might need a new chain as well in that case but I'm not sure

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 7, 2022

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Under 200bux for a rideable bike seems very reasonable. I've paid more than that for half decent wheels. It's also peak selling season so you'll pay a little more.

Swapping the chainring is very straightforward. You can do it with a couple bike specific tools or have a shop do it in ten minutes. That ratio does look pretty harsh but then again my knees are borked.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

thanks, I would definitely have someone do it (I probably don't have even have all the tools for it anyway)

I forgot that my "ideal ratio" on my current bike is 40/15, so I think a 42/16 would be good.

how do you know whether going from 46/16 to 42/16 requires a different chain?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

actionjackson posted:

how do you know whether going from 46/16 to 42/16 requires a different chain?

You eyeball where the rear axle is and how much it needs to move, and how much it can move.

Each tooth you lose means the chain effectively loosens by 1/4" -- a tooth or matching link is 1/2", but ~half the teeth don't engage at the chainring.
And because the chain runs at the top and bottom, each 1/4" of loosening means the axle needs to move back 1/8" to get the chain taut again.

So 4t means 1/2" movement of the chain, which seems fairly doable given how far forward the axle is:

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

ok, thank you. i will bring it to my LBS just to be sure. Can some chains be shortened by cutting? I saw something about that online. "quick link" chains

edit: going to pick it up in a bit, apparently it's 44 not 46. So based on the 40/15 I will either get a 40 or 42 after trying it out for a while.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
As far as I know all chains can be shortened. One of those special tools is a 'chain breaker' which is a little clamp and screw to force a chain pin out, removing any links to one side of the removed pin. Reconnecting the chain will depend on the brand. They typically have a special removable link but the details vary. If not, the mechanic can just force a pin back in in the right position.

Every shop should be able to handle this no problem.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
You can literally work on fixed gear chains with hundred-year-old tools, they simply haven't changed. You could (but shouldn't) make it work with a hammer and punch.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

the bike is officially mine

Only registered members can see post attachments!

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

actionjackson posted:

the bike is officially mine



Sick, have fun riding! Also for esthetic reasons only that stem needs to go.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I am actually pretty into aesthetics and I agree with that (it should be black)

but overall it works well with my slightly cool white paint

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Oh we're doing aesthetics?

Stem is gross, wheels are mismatched, chain is loose, front wheel is on backwards and the quick release should point backwards. Bar grips aren't my jam but they're like the socks and ties of bikes, it's your chance to show some personality.

But none of that actually matters so enjoy riding it! (Tighten the chain at least)

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

oh yeah i put the front tire back on, i guess I did it wrong haha

I think the mismatched rims give kind of a cool vibe

how do I tighten the chain?

Also do five bolt 40T single speed chainrings exist? 110 BCD. The Dimension ones only come in 39T and 42T.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
To tighten the chain you loosen both the nuts on the axle, then pull the whole wheel backwards and retighten. Make sure the wheel is straight.

It's only slightly loose so if you don't feel it while riding and the chain isn't skipping you could just leave it.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

ok, thanks. when i have my LBS do the new chainring I'll have them adjust whatever else is needed

having some mismatched stuff does have some anti-theft benefits

how did you know the front tire was on backwards? on my other bike the lever is on the right side, but I think is because of where the disc brake is.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

actionjackson posted:

how do I tighten the chain?
You loosen the rear axle and pull the wheel back, make sure the wheel is even between the chainstays and the axle is fully seated against the top of the trackends, and then tighten. The chain should have maybe 1/2” deflection up or down in the middle of the span.
You need a 15mm wrench.

quote:

Also do five bolt 40T single speed chainrings exist? 110 BCD.

Yeah, just search on eBay for 110 and 40t. You’ll want a 1/8” chainring, to match the single speed chain thickness.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

oh ok, so "singlespeed chainring" means it needs that 1/8" thickness, got it

like https://www.ebay.com/itm/304549844796 (this might not be 1/8" thick though, I think it's for a 1x with 10 or 11 speeds)

as I mentioned I like pedaling at 40/15 the most, but when I'm at a stop I shift gears to something with less resistance. So while 40/15 is closest to 42/16, maybe 40/16 is better to make those starts a bit easier.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jul 8, 2022

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

40/15 is 70", which unless you live in a very hilly area, is a good length to start with (anywhere from 68 to 72 gear inches).
You'll get used to it super quickly and it'll do wonders for your quads and glutes. It's worth spending money on a good chain and sprocket/chainring. It doesn't have to to be NJS, etc, but an actual round chain ring will make the pedaling feedback far more consistent...and yes, a lot of the cheaper chainrings aren't all that round.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:


how did you know the front tire was on backwards? on my other bike the lever is on the right side, but I think is because of where the disc brake is.

Yeah the lever typically goes on the left unless you have disc brakes. I doubt it actually matters much. The bearings and rim don't care which way they spin and even though tires are sometimes marked which way is forward, I've installed them backwards with no noticeable difference many times. That and if you really feel like it you can swap the quick release around separately from the wheel.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

ImplicitAssembler posted:

40/15 is 70", which unless you live in a very hilly area, is a good length to start with (anywhere from 68 to 72 gear inches).
You'll get used to it super quickly and it'll do wonders for your quads and glutes. It's worth spending money on a good chain and sprocket/chainring. It doesn't have to to be NJS, etc, but an actual round chain ring will make the pedaling feedback far more consistent...and yes, a lot of the cheaper chainrings aren't all that round.

I have 40/15 on my geared bike, which is my most comfortable to pedal at, but I don't start from a stop at it. I could do 42/16 on this bike, I don't live in a hilly area at all, and hopefully will just get used to it (again for starting, pedaling at it is fine)

edit: do you think my stem is a quill stem?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jul 8, 2022

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Are you sure it's 110 bcd? That's really weird.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

actionjackson posted:

edit: do you think my stem is a quill stem?

Yes, it's a quill stem and you'll need something snazzier

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/23376106440...mhoCvkcQAvD_BwE

https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-handlebars-stems/deda-murex-quill-stem/10916838.html

https://store.biketouringnews.com/nitto-technomic-225mm-quill-stem/

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

bicievino posted:

Are you sure it's 110 bcd? That's really weird.

@actionjackson, you can use this chart to confirm your BCD: https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html#five
5-bolt 110 would be 64.7mm at centers of adjacent holes;
5-bolt 130, 76.4
and 144, 84.6

Doesn't look like 144 to me, given how not minned out tat 46t looks.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003


thanks those are cool. however i don't want something super snazzy to attract attention either! though I doubt this bike will be much of a theft target either way.

I found out the back rim is a "deep V" rim, the person I bought it from doesn't know why the front rim is different, when he bought it used it was like that already. I might see if I can get a matching front rim.

kimbo305 posted:

@actionjackson, you can use this chart to confirm your BCD: https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html#five
5-bolt 110 would be 64.7mm at centers of adjacent holes;
5-bolt 130, 76.4
and 144, 84.6

Doesn't look like 144 to me, given how not minned out tat 46t looks.

thanks, I actually checked that last night, but the measurement came out to ~2.5 in = 63.5 mm, so I figured the exact value must be 2.54 in = 64.7 mm -> 110 BCD

also just to be clear it's 44t not 46t

edit: another option might be to change the back ring (cog?) to 17t, which would give me 44/17 = 2.59. Since on my geared bike I typically ride at 2.67, but at a stop or an incline I downshift to 40/17 = 2.35, that might be a nice compromise. or 44 x 18 = 2.44.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 8, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I just took it to the LBS and went with an 18t freewheel, because the person there mentioned that a lower gear ratio will be nicer for short trips, where spinning a bit more won't really be a bother, and the easier push from a stop will be beneficial. New chain and new brake pads as well. And I'm definitely going to get a black quill stem for aesthetics

I'm trying to do some helpful upgrades, but not spend a lot otherwise that seems to defeat the point of buying a cheap beater

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Cogs are pretty cheap and you can get into the low 20s. I'm running 40x18 with 700x45 tires and its comfortable for <30 mile trips including a lot of grocery runs.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

actionjackson posted:

I just took it to the LBS and went with an 18t freewheel, because the person there mentioned that a lower gear ratio will be nicer for short trips, where spinning a bit more won't really be a bother, and the easier push from a stop will be beneficial. New chain and new brake pads as well. And I'm definitely going to get a black quill stem for aesthetics

I'm trying to do some helpful upgrades, but not spend a lot otherwise that seems to defeat the point of buying a cheap beater

LBS' usually knows gently caress all when it comes to fixed/single speed. Trust me that it will very quickly becomes easy to start, especially on a freewheel, where you can easily reset the pedal position for maximum torque.

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SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

ImplicitAssembler posted:

LBS' usually knows gently caress all when it comes to fixed/single speed

What? That hasn't been my experience at all.

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