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I was going to go with FRI, unless Rocky Mountain has gotten much better in recent years (and it sounds like it hasn't), but I will contact Martin Baumgarten before going ahead with anything now.
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Jul 9, 2022 04:53
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I've got a silent-era movie camera and it's a hobby of mine to shoot shorts on it. I do want them to look like the silent era, though, which means shooting on orthochromatic film. Now, cheapest way is to shoot panchromatic Double-X short-ends with several ND filters and a cyan filter to strip-out red-colored light, but there recently have been (as in, within the last twenty years) actual slow-speed orthochromatic films released. By far my favorite is Film Photography Project's Sonic 25 (35mm isn't on their web store, but they will sell it in 100' lengths on 35mm if you ask). It's slow but not super slow like Kodak title or copy films (ISO 25 negative, ISO 12 reversal). Not at all contrasty like most modern ortho films. It does scratch easily, though. But what else is there? Anyone here like ortho film too? And does anywhere know where to get bulk loads of Rollei Ortho 25? Rollei says they're available, but I've never seen a single store that carries 100' lengths. Rollei Ortho 25 isn't my favorite stock -- it's very contrasty, almost like litho film -- but it's an option. Ortho fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jul 9, 2022 |
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Jul 9, 2022 06:20
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Anyone have experience reviving the selenium light meter in a contiflex super B? I’m digging around google but wanted to check if there’s any first-hand experience here Edit: just found a service manual and lol looks like I’m boned dupersaurus fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jul 9, 2022 |
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Jul 9, 2022 15:06
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You would need to replace it with a LDR/potentiometer/battery setup. It's not easy to replace. I am not aware of any modern replacements for the selenium cells. You could try and see what happens if you use those little solar panels like you see in dual power calculators. No idea how to calibrate, how good their response is etc etc.
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Jul 9, 2022 21:25
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LimaBiker posted:You would need to replace it with a LDR/potentiometer/battery setup. It's not easy to replace. I am not aware of any modern replacements for the selenium cells. I have a bookmark to a guy who replaced Zenit lightmeters with calculator solar panels. Given that the original Zenit lightmeter wasn't very reliable anyway, I doubt it made a lot of difference to the calibration, but you'll need to do a bit of trial and error with the resistor.
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Jul 10, 2022 14:20
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Yeah I think it’s a case of using a light meter app on my phone and/or put it some place pretty
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Jul 10, 2022 17:22
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theHUNGERian posted:Is this a light leak? The negative is dark as hell, so it is overexposed, but I metered it the same way as all other frames which came out fine. I was shooting approximately at a right angle to the sun, so the angle formed by subject/camera/sun was about 90 degrees. I guess I should do test shots where my body does (not) block sunlight from hitting the WLF during the exposure? I don't think it's an issue with the focal plane shutter as that one goes left/right, not up/down. Bought another back which looks practically unused, and yet another frame shows a similar issue although it's at a different position in the frame and it happened at a different shutter speed. I've now replaced the battery (not sure how it could have caused this, but I was out of ideas) and shot another test roll. Fingers crossed I didn't buy a lemon.
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Jul 10, 2022 22:52
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Megabound posted:I own one of these, it's currently under repair. The goofiest things are the back rolls on the film backwards, with the black side of the backing paper facing out, and it has a tensioning system for the mirror return that you need to adjust when you shoot horizontal vs vertical. The lenses are also uncoupled from the shutter system so you need to compose, stop down and then shoot. Gonna be asking to pick your brain in a week or two, just bought one  Nobody else bid on it so I picked up a camera with 105mm, WLF, , two backs (look like a pair of 6x9s and one of the multiformat ones) and 4 sheet film holders for all of ten bucks. Operation uncomfirmed but it at least looks nice in the pictures. It's the slightly newer model with the extra slow speeds.That Horizon arrived jammed (seemed to work in the pics), Buyee told me to pound sand since I didn't pay extra for their insurance. Have not been successful in opening it so far.
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Jul 11, 2022 10:37
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
I have a Horizon, but mine is the original 1970s metal body one. If you get yours working, you should definitely try vertical panoramic potraits/selfies, they are cool and fun.
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Jul 11, 2022 19:00
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Helen Highwater posted:I have a Horizon, but mine is the original 1970s metal body one. Ah, the black and silver one? I saw one at the camera market in Beijing when I was a student and didn't know what it was, I wrote it down to Google later (this was pre-smartphone for me) and went back to buy it the next weekend, but someone had beaten me to the punch. quote:If you get yours working, you should definitely try vertical panoramic potraits/selfies, they are cool and fun. Partial success! MVP of the last few days is "leave it on the windowsill for a few hours", which has given me just the bit of tolerance needed to get a few things unstuck so far. I've gotten the shutter unjammed and can adjust the aperture and fast/slow speeds, the camera seems to respond as it should (sounds like a swarm of angry bees), but shutter speed lever doesn't line up with the indicators. I can play with it and feel the three click stops in the middle of advancing the film, but finishing the cocking action pushes the shutter speed selector to the final position, so I am guessing I'm currently stuck with 1/2s or 1/60s depending on whether I have fast or slow selected. This kinda follows as it probably jumped a few teeth when I was forcing it open. With the advance unjammed I can now access the screw I need to get the film advance lever cover off (needed to get the body covers off so I can access the clockwork), however the next piece is being stubborn, even with the proper spanner and going the right way. Back to the window it goes for another couple hours  edit:  got it! Was able to lock the smaller shutter speed selector gear in place with my fingernails and get the screw on the top loose with my driver, then move it out of the way enough that I could rotate the bigger gear attached to the lever into the correct orientation. I've lost the three click stops for shutter speed but calling it a win, lol. Do you have any examples? Wondering whether it makes more sense to have the camera centred on the subjects face or torso. I've read about a mod to shim the film gate back to get better up-close results that I may try when I get home. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 05:26
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Hey folks, Given that this defect goes through the film border, I think it is safe to dismiss the shutter as a cause. Film that was developed by the lab doesn't show it either, and so I conclude that I am messing something up in my developing at home that introduces a light leak. I am using a JOBO 1540 and even Delta 100 is impacted by this. It is somewhat consistently the last frame of each roll. How do I debug this?
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Jul 18, 2022 01:11
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theHUNGERian posted:Hey folks, I once returned what was probably a perfectly good Super Ikonta because I had forgotten to insert the light trap that goes down the hole in the middle of the reels of my Paterson tank. Hopefully not that! The same tank later got a crack in the side that leaked a bit of fluid, however it never seemed to let enough light get in there to cause an impact. I've silicone'd it up and it's good as new now. My thought process is you finish on the last frame and then rewind, so between coming out of the camera and unloading it in your darkroom/changing bag it should in theory be the most protected because it's innermost. There's that phosphorescent type flash you can get if you peel the tape at the end off the film too quickly (which happens to me semi-regularly but has yet to fog film IIRC), but from your picture it looks like you've either snipped it or folded it over so I think we can rule that out. If you have another tank and/or darkroom or changing bag, I would try changing one of those variables and seeing what happens.
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Jul 18, 2022 02:48
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I once returned what was probably a perfectly good Super Ikonta because I had forgotten to insert the light trap that goes down the hole in the middle of the reels of my Paterson tank. Hopefully not that! The same tank later got a crack in the side that leaked a bit of fluid, however it never seemed to let enough light get in there to cause an impact. I've silicone'd it up and it's good as new now. I have the light trap installed and everything fits snugly. There was some fluid leaking out at the top, but that's because I forgot to push the top cap all the way in. No liquid leaks since then. Though I find the finish of the center column to be a bit shinier than I would prefer. But there is no rewinding with 120, so the last frame is most exposed during unloading. Nevertheless, I have loaded/unloaded Delta 3200 the same way back when the lab processed my bw film, and I didn't see an issue there. My best guess at the moment is to darken the room where I am processing (it's not a dark room). Or at least pour developer into the tank and put on the top cap all while still in relative darkness.
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Jul 18, 2022 03:57
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the Spain Virus posted:And does anywhere know where to get bulk loads of Rollei Ortho 25? Rollei says they're available, but I've never seen a single store that carries 100' lengths. Rollei Ortho 25 isn't my favorite stock -- it's very contrasty, almost like litho film -- but it's an option. The ISO scale (nor the ASA scale) really existed at the time, but silent film was around ISO 6. Still, that's really hard to work with today. I like a slow film, but one a little faster than that. Ortho Plus's ISO 80 is great. I will go with Film Rescue International for this first cartridge of Ektachrome 160. After running a a couple tests (I really wish I'd preserved some silent Ektachrome back in the day), I'll do the future cartridges myself. I've learned that EM-26 and E-6 are not substantially different and I can use a wash of 20g Borax, 100g sodium sulfate, and 1g sodium hydroxide diluted in 1L later to remove the remjet. Here's the new Ektachrome 100D I shot at the first Farmington Pride festival earlier this year. It isn't Kodachrome, but beggars can't be choosers. Completely unedited. Once I get the sound footage I intend to edited it into something coherent. Shot on a Canon AZ-E 1014: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xao1dKN4j8
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Jul 19, 2022 01:49
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I troll shopgoodwill for camera stuff sometimes. This listing was unfortunate. 
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Jul 29, 2022 04:43
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Cursed thread is thataway.
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Jul 29, 2022 05:24
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lol, every time.
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Jul 29, 2022 05:26
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lmao
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Jul 29, 2022 14:08
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I flinched, hard.
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Jul 30, 2022 06:21
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lmao i just went looking for film for an old polaroid 110a i inherited from my grandma and i was so curious as to why every single listing had SEALED!!!! in the title because something like this didn't even occur to me. learn something
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Aug 1, 2022 05:08
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110 is a canister film, so you're unlikely to see someone screw it up. It's the bulk 35 and the sheet films that get ruined.
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Aug 1, 2022 06:02
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The Finn posted:I flinched, hard.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:15
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CaptainViolence posted:lmao i just went looking for film for an old polaroid 110a i inherited from my grandma and i was so curious as to why every single listing had SEALED!!!! in the title because something like this didn't even occur to me. learn something I took a large format class in college and the darkroom guy tossed the little instruction booklet that comes in a box of 4x5 film on the table and said "Everyone open your boxes right now and check to make sure this instruction booklet is in the bag with the film." The volume the teacher yelled NOOOOOO at was ear splitting e: this has always been a top SA thread to me. I've been shooting film since 2014. Here are a few of mine. I shoot tri-x 400 between box and 1600, and Neopan Acros 100 at box. Development is DD-X. I shoot with a Voigtlander Bessa-R and 2 Canon Serenar lenses, a 50mm and a 35mm. At this point I've shot and developed a few thousand rolls. I keep it simple because I'm simple, and often I've found that's the quickest way to finding whatever your authentic artistic voice is. Gear sickness is a real thing, please always care and protect each other from it.       The Finn fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Aug 5, 2022 |
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Aug 5, 2022 19:47
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/\/\/\ i also really love this thread and it's gotten me back into shooting on film which i am very excited forTheLastManStanding posted:110 is a canister film, so you're unlikely to see someone screw it up. It's the bulk 35 and the sheet films that get ruined. it's me, i'm the guy who screwed it up, sort of the instruction booklet i have only mentioned that i needed Polaroid Land Film but did not specify that i needed Land Roll film and not Land Pack film, so when it arrived i opened it up and stared at it confused for a moment before i realized that i just ruined an entire set of sheets. a proper roll is now on its way, but this is what i get for being smug on the internet.on the bright side, i ordered a home development kit and i want to thank this thread for giving me the confidence to try developing my own stuff for the first time ever despite my polaroid-based mistakes!
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Aug 5, 2022 20:49
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Developed my first roll today in the bathroom and - it mostly came out fine! Had most trouble loading the film in the reel and ended up inserting it starting from the cassette end. Had a moment of total devastation when I emptied the tank and saw only black frames but it was only the beginning of the film. Few frames have dents from me struggling to load the reel but that's good enough for first try. Still kinda dumbfounded that I can make out pictures in the negatives.
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Aug 6, 2022 11:16
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Pro tip, wash your reels thoroughly with soapy water after you're done for the day, it makes loading your reels the next time much much easier. That and trimming the leading corners of your film.
Megabound fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Aug 6, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 12:08
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Havana Affair posted:Developed my first roll today in the bathroom and - it mostly came out fine! Had most trouble loading the film in the reel and ended up inserting it starting from the cassette end. Had a moment of total devastation when I emptied the tank and saw only black frames but it was only the beginning of the film. Few frames have dents from me struggling to load the reel but that's good enough for first try. Still kinda dumbfounded that I can make out pictures in the negatives.  No exaggeration this is a milestone and you should be proud as poo poo. When I developed 10 rolls I treated myself to a soft release from Artisan Obscura. I felt like a king. I was thinking lately about doing some twitch streams, just this kind of stuff, like how I load/unload film, what I use, lessons learned, etc. If I can figure it out then I'd do it while also loading tanks*/making prints in the darkroom. I think I'm going to look into it more, because just to have a place to chat film in real time with other humans sounds lovely beyond belief What all of us need is some form of archive, actively collecting all the darkroom knowledge that is rapidly being lost as these crusty old film & darkroom geniuses pass on and absolutely no one is replacing them
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Aug 6, 2022 12:27
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On YouTube you have The Naked Photographer, Lina Bessonova, Shoot Film Like A Boss and Pictoral Planet all doing great work on darkroom and developing process and catering to many different learning styles. Would recommend looking into them if you believe there's a dearth of information out there.
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Aug 6, 2022 13:01
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Noted on all and checking them out, thanks man
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Aug 6, 2022 22:19
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Developed the mystery roll that came in the 645 back with my Rittreck; when I turned the lights on after loading the tank I could see from the backing paper that it was actually Kodacolor (C-22 process). After a quick Google and deciding I couldn't be arsed trying to source the proper chemistry for half a roll of 50 year old film of unknown provenance, I decided to do HC-110 semi-stand and send it. Supposedly C-22 will yield results if developing in B&W chemistry. Anyways I got nothing, which is kinda what I expected, but definitely not what I was hoping for. Ah well. The Finn posted:Noted on all and checking them out, thanks man Likewise, I've only watched the Naked Photographer of that list (who is quite good). Add attic darkroom to your list if you aren't already subscribed, he does some fun, weird experiments. (And a lot of trichroming, if that's your thing.)
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Aug 6, 2022 23:58
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The Finn posted:
Thanks for the kind words. Did my second roll (with a soap-washed reel) and managed not to mangle any frames this time!
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Aug 7, 2022 12:30
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Are there any issues with ordering film online? I've been trying to buy it from Samys since my folks live in LA so I like to swing by there when I visit, but they always keep being out of a lot of stocks...
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Aug 7, 2022 15:27
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Nope, film had to go through the post to get to the store anyway so there's no harm in a little more post to your door.
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Aug 7, 2022 17:17
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Cleaned up a Yashica Electro 35 GSN and replaced the light seals to gift it to a photographer friend for their birthday. I haven't shot anything in forever, and they'll be able to enjoy it far more than me. Cleaning it up made me remember how much I love analog and brought a lot of joy. My next quest will be fixing an Olympus XA2 I've had for years, which may be a lost cause but I'm going to try!
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Aug 8, 2022 16:35
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ishikabibble posted:Are there any issues with ordering film online? I've been trying to buy it from Samys since my folks live in LA so I like to swing by there when I visit, but they always keep being out of a lot of stocks... i'd avoid it in the summer when your film will cook in a truck
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Aug 8, 2022 17:00
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Just got scans from a roll of Ektachrome shot in a Minolta TC-1 back and holy gently caress are they underexposed. It's probably the camera but I can't justify the cost and temperamentalness of slides anymore. I develop C41 at home and it's so much easier to deal with.
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Aug 11, 2022 21:14
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Cacator posted:Just got scans from a roll of Ektachrome shot in a Minolta TC-1 back and holy gently caress are they underexposed. It's probably the camera but I can't justify the cost and temperamentalness of slides anymore. I develop C41 at home and it's so much easier to deal with. Could also be light meter technique. I've found the same with provia, looks great but a little difficult to nail.
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Aug 11, 2022 22:53
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Yeah I've found the Minolta has a tendency to underexpose, but this was pretty severe and I had nowhere near as bad a problem in the two rolls of C41 I shot before and after. I'm waiting on a roll of Velvia 50 in 120 to come in (shot on a Mamiya 6 which also underexposes...  ) and then we'll see.Maybe I should just carry a handheld lightmeter around everywhere. Cacator fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 23:47
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Cacator posted:Just got scans from a roll of Ektachrome shot in a Minolta TC-1 back and holy gently caress are they underexposed. It's probably the camera but I can't justify the cost and temperamentalness of slides anymore. I develop C41 at home and it's so much easier to deal with. Lol, I'm on holiday without a light meter and 20 rolls of slide on me so we'll see how that shakes out.
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Aug 12, 2022 09:19
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| # ? May 28, 2024 08:40 |
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When I went to photography college, (15 odd years ago) we were starting our dark room printing unit, and one of the students had taken all of their photographic paper, and put it into a binder 'ready to use' she said as she flicked through it in the class room  Edit: To contribute, I'm looking at a Contax G1 or G2 for a point and shoot/dick around camera. Are there some well known issues/failures I can look out for when I'm buying? Thanks!
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Aug 14, 2022 23:55
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