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Fysetc is selling a superpinda clone now. I wonder how it compares to the genuine one.
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Jul 10, 2022 21:19
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There's someone near me selling a Mk3 with a MMU2S and the extruder upgrade for $450, but he says it needs an extruder rebuild and a new motherboard. How in depth is an extruder rebuild assuming I follow the documentation, and are the boards even available anywhere? They're not available on the official Prusa3d site. I'm iffy on it but I have some stuff that I want to print that's too big for a Mini, frustratingly. Maybe I should just get a mini and use the bigger prints as motivation to get my Ender fixed. E: Misread, says the hot end needs rebuilt if that makes a difference. Not sure why I couldn't just pull the hot end and replace it with a new one in that case. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 00:01
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s This is always what I assumed Batman's fabrication rig for body armor would look like. Though, honestly, the comic book super-printer in my imagination was slower. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 00:26
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I want that just to own something that makes that noise That poo poo is straight out of "flight of the navigator"
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Jul 12, 2022 02:42
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22 Eargesplitten posted:There's someone near me selling a Mk3 with a MMU2S and the extruder upgrade for $450, but he says it needs an extruder rebuild and a new motherboard. How in depth is an extruder rebuild assuming I follow the documentation, and are the boards even available anywhere? They're not available on the official Prusa3d site. I'm iffy on it but I have some stuff that I want to print that's too big for a Mini, frustratingly. Maybe I should just get a mini and use the bigger prints as motivation to get my Ender fixed. Sounds to me like he got it all clogged up and isn’t knowledgeable enough to clean it. It could also be that while trying to clean it he broke a wire to the thermistor or something. Those are both easy fixes with instructions and parts available on the Prusa site.
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Jul 12, 2022 02:55
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How many kg per hour is that thing pushing That's a serious amount of energy going into that hot end
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Jul 12, 2022 03:23
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Hadlock posted:How many kg per hour is that thing pushing Quick math, I didn't see his print or part specs, but... 1500 mm/s * 0.4 mm nozzle * 0.2mm layer height = 120 mm^3/s at just shy of 50mm/s filament speed. ~ 340 m of filament on a roll, so 1 hour 53 minutes to use a standard 1kg roll.
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Jul 12, 2022 03:50
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I think he mentioned that the max the nozzle could consistently handle was ~60mm^3.
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Jul 12, 2022 05:19
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So almost exactly 1 lb per hour. Not bad Unrelated, Is there any way to efficiently print something like this, like a custom body shell for an RC car, without either using a ton of support material, or doing a hyper intricate custom slice job and gluing it all together, I've been puzzling over this can't can't think of a way. Maybe cura does supports that's aren't nightmare level to pull out of a highly concave model like this. Using FDM https://stlprintables.com/product/porsche-911-classic-printable-body-car/ 
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Jul 12, 2022 05:35
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The short answer, is no. Body shapes are not well suited to 3d printing. They violate every rule, even when printed at a funky angle. 3dsets cuts up their bodies to do it well. I've gotten reasonably good results with support blockers. But most "successful" car bodies I've seen printed, were done by printing the hood section separate from the cabin, separate from the trunk. While we're at this. If you're doing r/c cars, maybe you don't want to print a body. You might want to print a buck, so you can pull a body. ~THAT~ will get you a good body, and a good print.
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Jul 12, 2022 06:03
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a thin body shell like the one pictured would be unprintable. However, if you are willing to do the modeling yourself and deal with some extra chunkiness and support cleanup on the inside, I believe you could make one that IS printable if you really wanted to
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Jul 12, 2022 06:40
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There should be a law that if you sell a model as "printable" you have to show an actual print
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Jul 12, 2022 07:37
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BMan posted:There should be a law that if you sell a model as "printable" you have to show an actual print AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH *picks self up off floor* What's that you say? Things that are printable should be.. printable? This is uh.. maybe 30% of my problem with the 3d printing community. There's so much out there that's "printable" but... no. No it is not. It requires 300mm of bridging, wall thickness that is exactly 1.22 times the width of the print nozzle. All overhangs are 70deg or more. Features that are smaller than one perimeter of the smallest reasonable nozzle. Or require you stop the print at the right layer, and put on a layer of sharpie so you get a separation layer. Among other complaints. Parts that are printed that shouldn't be printed, ever. Oh, and instructions that tell you to print it in some fashion that just.. can't.. work.
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Jul 12, 2022 08:06
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Nerobro posted:AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH "Hey, I'm just an ideas guy!"
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Jul 12, 2022 08:45
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Hadlock posted:So almost exactly 1 lb per hour. Not bad This is something that’s suited to an SLS process from Shapeways or a similar vendor. The body might warp some from the thin walls, but it’s printed in nylon so you should have the flexibility required to get surfaces to mate up.
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Jul 12, 2022 13:15
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Hadlock posted:So almost exactly 1 lb per hour. Not bad If you're having trouble with supports, try increasing the distance from the model in small increments until it works better. Note: this will NOT get the supported surface to look better, quite the opposite. But at least you should be able to remove them without an angle grinder.
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Jul 12, 2022 13:53
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No amount of support is gonna make that model FDM printable as-is. You would think a website that sells "printable" STLs would like, slice the models to verify that.
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Jul 12, 2022 15:56
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Nerobro posted:While we're at this. If you're doing r/c cars, maybe you don't want to print a body. You might want to print a buck, so you can pull a body. ~THAT~ will get you a good body, and a good print. Yeah I have a go kart thing I'm doing (1920s grand prix style) and ultimately want to print a buck in pieces then do fiberglass for a few of the parts that curve in more than one direction that I can't just wrap pliable sheet metal around. The largest part is about 18" wide and 6" deep which should be two full build plate prints (8"x8") and one 1/4 build plate print. I've had good luck using 2.5mm metal pins to accurately hold large prints together as locator pins Hadlock fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 16:21
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Hadlock posted:So almost exactly 1 lb per hour. Not bad It's printable, but yeah, you're going to need tons of support. If you're using Prusa slicer, it's worth experimenting with the support interface parameters.
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Jul 12, 2022 17:35
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There's a Prusa mini floating around on my local Facebook group for $270 cad. How much room for improvement is there if I buy it to gently caress around with? Seems like a pretty good deal
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Jul 12, 2022 18:29
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Buy that this instant assuming it prints. It will handle just about any material you want out of the box, just let it do its thing and don't mess with it. That comes out to $210 USD and I would be faking sick to get out of work to get that ASAP. The guy selling the $450 Mk3 that I mentioned yesterday said he just found out the motherboard needs to be replaced. Are there reliable aftermarket units or would I be digging to find someone who has the official units in stock? Also, I've got a Dragon HF E3D style hot end already lying around, would that fit in the Prusa? It seems like it should and that way I wouldn't have to buy another $80 hot end. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 20:03
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I'm pretty sure you can buy directly from Prusa for the motherboard? Edit, well poo poo, they're out of stock. https://www.prusa3d.com/product/einsy-rambo-mk3s/ Sign up to be notified when available and let it sit until you get it? w00tmonger posted:There's a Prusa mini floating around on my local Facebook group for $270 cad. Buy it and if it works *gently caress with nothing* and enjoy it. It's easily my favorite printer right now and I really think for that price point I'd also sick out if work to get it.
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Jul 12, 2022 20:25
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there reliable aftermarket units or would I be digging to find someone who has the official units in stock? I built my mk3 clone with a fysetc control board and it seems fine. The design is open source so I'm reasonably certain the clones are just as good as official (might be thinner PCBs, idk). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32884681694.html quote:Also, I've got a Dragon HF E3D style hot end already lying around, would that fit in the Prusa? It seems like it should and that way I wouldn't have to buy another $80 hot end. It should, mk3 is a bone stock all metal v6
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Jul 12, 2022 21:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Buy that this instant assuming it prints. It will handle just about any material you want out of the box, just let it do its thing and don't mess with it. That comes out to $210 USD and I would be faking sick to get out of work to get that ASAP. I have an otherwise-unused Einsey Mini I'll sell for something reasonable?
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Jul 12, 2022 23:40
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Since it was on sale I grabbed an Ender 3 V2 and the upgrade kit recommended in here a while back, and I think I would like a levelling probe as well. Is there a real difference between the BLTouch and the CRTouch, and is there a real difference between the ones on Amazon and AliExpress? Or should I just wait and get an inductive probe at the same time I inevitably get a magnetic build plate?
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Jul 13, 2022 00:24
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CR Touch is just creality's version of the bl touch. It has a metal pin vs the plastic pin of the bl touch. I want to say when someone tested cr touch vs bl touch the cr touch had better repeatability so it's possibly more accurate by the tiniest bit? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCyTEttj8sk I also use a cr touch so I may be biased. edit: Also I'm sure you could get one off aliexpress if you're wanting to wait a month or two. Opinionated fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 01:55
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I have a CR Touch and it just works.
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Jul 13, 2022 03:43
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I really screwed myself, and have had nothing but trouble w/ petg adhesion on my textured glass bed since i posted a couple of pages ago that I had always had great adhesion. I think it's actually because I'm running a window unit hard right next to the printer due to another project. But anyway, I flipped to the smooth side and have been printing and releasing very well w/ purple glue stick. How often do I need to actually scrape and refresh the glue? I apply a layer and it's clear, then remove a part and it looks like this: Should I be refreshing it each print? Also, you guys have mentioned hairspray, any particular advantages vs glue stick? seems like I'd slowly get it all over the rest of the printer and the lead screws etc. applying it as a spray bbcisdabomb posted:Since it was on sale I grabbed an Ender 3 V2 and the upgrade kit recommended in here a while back, and I think I would like a levelling probe as well. Is there a real difference between the BLTouch and the CRTouch, and is there a real difference between the ones on Amazon and AliExpress? Another touchless option which is bed/temp agnostic is ezabl, but all i can personally attest to is that the official bltouch works very well for me.
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Jul 13, 2022 12:35
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After having wanted one for a while (and after printing a ton at work), I've grabbed myself a Creality CR-6 SE as a birthday present. Since it seems like it's more or less an Ender 3 v2, but with a bunch of the upgrades built in. I really appreciate how well it works just right out of the box, haven't really tweaked anything yet, but managed a pretty good lithophane print right off the bat. A couple lines throughout, not entirely sure what caused them, but I think some of those artifacts might be because it was a bit too thin in some places. (scaled it down instead of re-generating it when I realized I wouldn't have enough time to print it before bed otherwise.) Pretty impressed at the actual 'resolution', considering the size and time. (5 hours, 0.2mm layers, 0.4mm nozzle, roughly 150x76mm, curved. Basic Creality PLA that came with the printer.)  (Used https://itslitho.com/, only annoyance is that superslicer took a loooong time slicing it, since the mesh quickly becomes pretty heavy.) Main annoyance is needing to find a micro-sd card in addition to the sd card that came with it to flash the touchscreen, because the newest community firmware requires a touchscreen flash at the same time. I'll probably look at swapping out the hot end assembly for a proper metal one, since I imagine it's probably similar to the Ender 3 in having one that breaks fairly easily. I've just gotten some nozzles, so I'll be trying to print the parts for an enclosure with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle so that I can speed it up a lot. e: By the way, I was thinking of repurposing my old phone to run Octoprint on it, as opposed to buying a raspberry pi or something for that express purpose. Does anyone have any experience with running Octoprint off an android phone, as opposed to a raspberry pi? SubNat fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 12:51
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Do borosilicate glass beds wear out? Mine is a black Crealtiy from 2020 and I've been unable to make things consistently stick to it for a while. Granted, I am in the process of replacing my hot end, board, fan shroud, and migrating to klipper. So there are many many variables to dial in. But even with different tests from 35-85C bed, 190-220C nozzle, and a 1mm range of z offsets, I'm getting corner lifting bad enough that it catches. I do use a bl touch but its also possible the bed is too warped anyway.
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Jul 13, 2022 14:42
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Marsupial Ape posted:I have a CR Touch and it just works. Opinionated posted:CR Touch is just creality's version of the bl touch. It has a metal pin vs the plastic pin of the bl touch. I want to say when someone tested cr touch vs bl touch the cr touch had better repeatability so it's possibly more accurate by the tiniest bit? Thanks, I'll probably end up grabbing a CRTouch. It's currently only $5 more on Amazon, too. SubNat posted:e: By the way, I was thinking of repurposing my old phone to run Octoprint on it, as opposed to buying a raspberry pi or something for that express purpose. When I tried it my phone (an old Nexus 6) couldn't do both power and data through the USB port simultaneously. The actual software worked incredibly well on battery, so if your phone can do charge and data I would recommend it.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:22
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bbcisdabomb posted:When I tried it my phone (an old Nexus 6) couldn't do both power and data through the USB port simultaneously. The actual software worked incredibly well on battery, so if your phone can do charge and data I would recommend it. Yeah, I ordered a usb c dongle that should allow for charging plus data, so all that remains to be seen is if my old Huawei mate 9 pro can do it in practice.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:36
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Could always slave a wireless power pad to the phone and free up the USB plug in, but YMMV getting one cheap enough that also transfers enough power to sustain the phone (anything newer than a Galaxy S6 does this I think? I don't recall the iPhone or other versions that added this).
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Jul 13, 2022 16:39
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SubNat posted:e: By the way, I was thinking of repurposing my old phone to run Octoprint on it, as opposed to buying a raspberry pi or something for that express purpose. I have it running off my old Pixel 3. I needed to buy a special USB cable that could do power and data at the same time (~$10 on Amazon), but other than that it works great. My printer is in the basement and my computer is on the second floor so it saves of a lot of carrying SD cards back and forth.
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Jul 13, 2022 19:25
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Serenade posted:Do borosilicate glass beds wear out? Mine is a black Crealtiy from 2020 and I've been unable to make things consistently stick to it for a while. The secret to a glass bed is cleanliness. Wash it, with dish soap, until the water doesn't bead at all on it. Make sure to get all the soap off it as well. What causes the water to bead is a thin layer of oil, and this is also what prevents prints from sticking well.
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Jul 13, 2022 20:32
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poverty goat posted:Also, you guys have mentioned hairspray, any particular advantages vs glue stick? seems like I'd slowly get it all over the rest of the printer and the lead screws etc. applying it as a spray When i used it i would remove the bed weekly and clean/refresh the spray. Frequently, when i realized right before a print that i needed to do this, i would just do what you said (psssht another layer over the top of the build plate as installed) and there would be overspray on things. It never hurt anything but i definitely prefer to not do it that way
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Jul 13, 2022 23:40
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Aurium posted:The secret to a glass bed is cleanliness. Hopefully this is the gooniest thing I ever post, I forgot about soap. I tired just water, everclear, and glass cleaner before, but not dish soap. Immediate huge difference. I went to the test cases of constant failure: successful prints even better than the working temperatures before. I might still break out the hairspray when I print the fan shroud to replace my current placeholder. But that's because it's the last stretch before I consider my printer back to "fully operational." Either way, I'm up and running again in a way I haven't been in months.
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Jul 14, 2022 01:17
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I use glue stick with PETG to help with release instead of adhesive. Same concept as greasing a cookie sheet. After washing my glass bed with dish soap, let it air dry, then place it back on the printer, wipe it with alcohol, turn bed heat to 60. This evaporates the alcohol and is now warm enough to apply the glue stick. I normally apply a single layer horizontally and another vertically. Lasts about 3 to 4 prints, depending on the build area.
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Jul 14, 2022 01:48
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You know what's a fun issue to diagnose? Intermittent extruder problems. Anyway, my hot end is squeaky clean now both inside and out and I have a set of non-worn out extruder gears on it's way.
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Jul 14, 2022 03:29
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Bondematt posted:You know what's a fun issue to diagnose? Intermittent extruder problems. Just addressed this same problem about a month ago. Filament dust was on the optical rotary encoder.
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Jul 14, 2022 05:47
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