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*mgs alert noise* 
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Jul 12, 2022 19:53
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SkyeAuroline posted:Yup, Iron Warriors. As far as what I'm working on - working through the AoD box, I have a couple of beakies in subassemblies on corks + the Contemptor together and primed; all the Terminators are also together and "ready" but I have to find 9 more havoc launchers somewhere to finish them. Spray primer was working like poo poo despite ideal local conditions so I may have to fall back on brush primer for the beakies and just trust spray for big stuff. Last night was an adventure with a beakie that could have gone much better; tonight I'm probably just going to try and get metallics down on the Contemptor so I don't totally lose momentum. Have some plates somewhere that should work for at least long enough to do the base coat... I’m just stoked we have more IW being painted here. Show ‘em off when you’re done!
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Jul 12, 2022 21:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:It's a chest of ravioli
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Jul 12, 2022 21:48
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SkyeAuroline posted:Yup, Iron Warriors. As far as what I'm working on - working through the AoD box, I have a couple of beakies in subassemblies on corks + the Contemptor together and primed; all the Terminators are also together and "ready" but I have to find 9 more havoc launchers somewhere to finish them. Spray primer was working like poo poo despite ideal local conditions so I may have to fall back on brush primer for the beakies and just trust spray for big stuff. Last night was an adventure with a beakie that could have gone much better; tonight I'm probably just going to try and get metallics down on the Contemptor so I don't totally lose momentum. Have some plates somewhere that should work for at least long enough to do the base coat... I usually paint in an assembly line, so to be efficient I typically plan out everything in advance to a large degree. For Iron Warriors there's so many different ways to complete the job that there's no wrong way to do it, so if the real focus of the task is both enjoyment of the activity + completing a model, then maybe picking a painting style that fits your physical & psychological needs might be best. How do you usually go about planning your painting?
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Jul 12, 2022 22:01
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The Demilich posted:How do you usually go about planning your painting? Before quitting the first time? Single models in one go. Could reliably pull it off as long as I had everything built and assembled. Right now? After I manage to get a test model that confirms I'm actually painting this poo poo remotely competently, ready to just batch paint a few colors at a time, however long it takes. Easier if I had a dedicated space still, but had to lose all that for my work-from-home setup so not near as easy to plan on "just pick up and go". Have to do the test model as one "thing" straight through however many sessions it takes, but I'm setting it aside to just get a couple colors on this dread tonight (or whenever my hands cooperate again, since work has been loving me up pretty bad today). quote:if the real focus is enjoyment of the activity That comes when there's a good finished product. I'm not fielding bare plastic under any circumstances, so painting has to happen first (and continually, if anything grows from just the box set). The "activity" is just a means to an end. A lot of mental health issues you can attribute that one to. Maybe I'm a better fit for the EC mindset. I'll post something tonight so I'm not clogging the thread with just stuff that's not painted minis, even if it's just the unfinished test model or whatever. Not home to go grab it now. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 22:36
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You can go a long way with a rattle can of lead belcher and some shade/contrast paints, fwiw. Very low effort and also doesn't require a ton of delicate work. Just picking out some trim afterwards in black (or whatever).
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Jul 12, 2022 23:37
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I saw your full paint inventory list, but which paints have you chosen specifically for your Iron Warriors aside from Jet Exhaust? I'll write up a little step by step that might ease the process of this stuff while meeting your preferences.
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Jul 13, 2022 00:46
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 A combination of several factors, including personal life stuff & the "dry palette" attempt loving up my painting almost as badly as the wet palette did (and definitely giving me way less time to work while wasting 90% of the paint), cut me short but receipts that I actually have a paintbrush, attempt to use it, and all that poo poo so I'm not just here "wasting time" or whatever. Yellow looks way better than it does in person because of how it's catching the light, still has a bunch of thin greenish patches and very visible thick ridges from brush strokes. hosed but whatever. Some small amount of painting for accountability. Metallic dried out completely twice in the span of time it took me to do two coats over what's visible on the dread, and the quality dropped off before it was fully dry with obviously worse flow & clumping. The Demilich posted:I saw your full paint inventory list, but which paints have you chosen specifically for your Iron Warriors aside from Jet Exhaust? I pulled out the following, expecting to just expand on it when I needed: - Exhaust Manifold base, Steel and/or Stormhost Silver to highlight - Retributor Armor trim that doesn't exist on anything but the Praetors, (???) highlight - German Grey for shoulder and beak fill & hazard striping, Eshin Grey highlight - the regular Blood Angels set for the right forearm and glove (my one variation on the default scheme), Mephiston Red + whatever the layer is - Averland Sunset hazard stripe yellow base, Yriel Yellow highlight (only other yellow I own at all is Vallejo Flat Yellow) - Vallejo Flat Brown for leather and straps, (???) highlight - Castellan Green bolter case & hand grenades, Loren Forest highlight - Nuln Oil and Reikland Fleshshade for relevant shades, I have Agrax here somewhere too The couple of (???)s I haven't made it far enough to need to figure out yet.
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Jul 13, 2022 01:21
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Underpaint the yellow with a medium tan first, it'll save you tons of trouble later
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Jul 13, 2022 02:25
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SkyeAuroline posted:
Let's organize this list Grey metallic, 3x variations Orange, 2x variations Grey, 2x variations Yellow, 3x variations Green, 2x variations Brown, 1x variation Red, 3x variations I think you can reduce this list a bit in a few ways. Quick question though; what are you using for black & white, and were you thinking of having your lenses/power weapons be the same color? If so, what color?
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Jul 13, 2022 03:24
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The Demilich posted:Let's organize this list German Grey is the closest I've planned on going to actual black so far, but I have Abaddon Black and whatever on that side, and I can replace my Uluthuan Grey for white (I do my best to avoid using pure black or white). Lenses I did red for the test model and will probably stick with, power weapons I've done with the three Dark Eldar base paints and really liked the look it gave, so I'm probably doing that again too. (Incubi Darkness and the two highlights.) Hard to reduce the list much when I don't even have highlights for some of them and the current list is the absolute bare minimum for these colors.
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Jul 13, 2022 03:32
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SkyeAuroline posted:German Grey is the closest I've planned on going to actual black so far, but I have Abaddon Black and whatever on that side, and I can replace my Uluthuan Grey for white (I do my best to avoid using pure black or white). Lenses I did red for the test model and will probably stick with, power weapons I've done with the three Dark Eldar base paints and really liked the look it gave, so I'm probably doing that again too. (Incubi Darkness and the two highlights.) You don't need all the paint you think you do. The problem with miniature branded paint imo is it robs people from the joy of freeform exploratory mixing. Sometimes you just don't know how some of these brands primary, secondary, and tertiary colors interact with their hidden characteristics. You don't necessarily need to throw pure black or white onto your model, but I find having both black and white on your palette allows you to adjust other color values in either direction which is invaluable. There's plenty of blacks to choose from that have other characteristics that come forward when thinning. When it comes to mixing white you'll basically always use one or two types, titanium and zinc. Titanium is opaque, zinc is transparent. It's good to know the difference when you want to lighten a color without accidentally turning it pastel. Color List: Grey metallic, 3x variations Orange, 2x variations Grey, 2x variations Yellow, 3x variations Green, 2x variations Brown, 1x variation Red, 3x variations Cyan, 3x variations White, I feel a combo method of grisaille and drybrushing will fill in everything nicely with minimal effort. I'm going to reduce the list a bit here and put the paint into pairs: 3x grey neutral metals, 1x wash 1x orange metal, 1x orange wash Hazard stripe series: 2x yellow, 2x grey 1x Red 1x Brown 1x Cyan 1x White This list is very warm, with one major cool color, so it should stand out pretty well. Expect the cyan to really draw the eye.
The Demilich fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 05:40
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Eediot Jedi posted:Just wait til you see the goobertown grip Was wondering if someone was going to post that. I remember audibly saying 'what the gently caress' the first time I saw it.
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Jul 13, 2022 05:56
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E: this post wasn't as funny as I thought
Siivola fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 05:59
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Sick day is a vampire day   I need to make a photo set up. Eediot Jedi fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 06:29
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The Demilich posted:You don't need all the paint you think you do. Just wanted to add that when I started this hobby, I was watching a lot of citadel color videos, because I figured “might as well see how the manufacturers intend this stuff to work.” It was a huge mistake and set me back quite a bit, because they hardly ever mix paint. I understand the reasoning, but it really becomes a managing nightmare for a newbie. The first time I saw a youtuber mixing some 5 or so vallejo colors it blew my mind, because the citadel process is so formulaic. My palette has gotten a lot less busy since then and it is a huge productivity boost.
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Jul 13, 2022 06:40
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Eediot Jedi posted:Sick day is a vampire day 
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Jul 13, 2022 06:41
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It's the phone camera! They're not that vibrant irl. I can't seem to completely turn off the enhancement, and couldn't be assed to jump on the computer to try to correct it. This is with hdr and optimisation off, and it's still too vibrant but a lot closer.    
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Jul 13, 2022 06:51
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Eediot Jedi posted:Sick day is a vampire day Really like the vibrancy of the colour here
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Jul 13, 2022 07:09
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continue to play with Speedpaints. re-activation is killing me.  Ignore Melty McMeltface in the back, Micro Gloss does not play well with speedpaints (brushed on)
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Jul 13, 2022 07:28
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Here's an example of my grisaille work btw, it's just a skaven pole topper You can adjust these values up or down to preference of course, especially since paint coverage varies so wildly. For my purposes I usually use Golden air transparents. The consistency is perfect and they name all their colors in the traditional manner so you know exactly what you're getting pigment wise. Quinacridone red, dioxazine purple, phthalo blue (green shade), yellow/brown/red iron oxide, all our favorite friends can be found here with ease. Bored Online posted:Just wanted to add that when I started this hobby, I was watching a lot of citadel color videos, because I figured “might as well see how the manufacturers intend this stuff to work.” It was a huge mistake and set me back quite a bit, because they hardly ever mix paint. I understand the reasoning, but it really becomes a managing nightmare for a newbie. The first time I saw a youtuber mixing some 5 or so vallejo colors it blew my mind, because the citadel process is so formulaic. My palette has gotten a lot less busy since then and it is a huge productivity boost. Yeah it fucks/hosed a lot of people up, myself included. The one thing I'll give GW is the new contrast range has some pure pigment colors which is very sweet. The price leaves a lot to be desired however. One thing I always recommend now is after picking your palette colors, always do a palette test to identify your range/mixing potential. Combine paints in different ratios (3:1,,2:1, 1:1 etc), and just create a little test page with your color swatches
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Jul 13, 2022 08:46
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The Moon Monster posted:Has anyone had good luck with Windsor and Newton brushes in the last few years? I swore them off a while back after consistent QC issues, but I recently got some as a gift and they're just trash. The tips are worse than the Rosemary and Cos I've been using for over a year, and there's no discernable difference between the size 0 and size 1. I (finally) bought one a few months ago after wanting one for years and literally 2 minutes into painting, it split into 3 distinct portions and I can't get it back to a proper point for more than 1-2 brushstrokes now. I could have just used 30 cheap brushes and tossed them out for that much.
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Jul 13, 2022 14:19
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How do you even get a refund or exchange for that, I would pitch a fit.
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Jul 13, 2022 15:30
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Yeah, I moved over to Raphael 8404 and have been happy. W&N are too inconsistent now. Raphael is also quite similar in brush size, unlike Rosemary & Co.
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Jul 13, 2022 15:34
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I should have gotten a refund from Amazon, but waited too long. I keep it now as a reminder to not buy them. Raphael 8404s rip poo poo but are so nice that I'm almost afraid to use mine.
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Jul 13, 2022 15:46
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Lotta complaints on W&Ns from Amazon over the years. The going theory is they put real and knock offs in the same bins.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:03
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Is there a way to tell them apart aside from "one sucks?"
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Jul 13, 2022 16:12
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Pretty much. I've stopped buying fancy brushes off Amazon and will get them from Jackson's, blick, or another good 3rd party seller. Weirdly enough, one of my favorite brushes is Michigan toy soldier branded brush that I think is just a rosemary and Co brush with a different badge on it. Idk if they still sell them. The raphael8404 does have the largest belly and sharpest tip of any of the brushes I've tried and it really is the perfect brush for me where I use the size 1 for any detail work, even eyes. Lots of brushes are just too skinny and don't hold a lot of moisture so they have a very short working time. But my biggest gripe with buying brushes online is that few people document actual brush size. Rosemary and Co is the only place I've seen that lists bristle length on their website and catalogue (they sent a nice little magazine when I ordered a brush from them). It's so annoying when a size 1 Raphael is actual a W&N size 4 or whatever I don't recall off the top of my head.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:22
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Don't buy anything important from Amazon
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Jul 13, 2022 16:24
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  best mobile image gallery Painted up the wage-slave for my custom Wage-cage, I've since switched to the Velejo brand yellow spray bc the army painter brand leaves a chalky surface that does not want to play well with SpeedPaint War and Pieces fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 16:33
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The best brush I've ever had was a DaVinci Kolinsky of some type, I've had it so long all the numbers have worn off the handle so I'm not even sure which model # it is. It only recently stopped holding a point after years of abuse.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:43
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Cat Face Joe posted:Lotta complaints on W&Ns from Amazon over the years. The going theory is they put real and knock offs in the same bins. I've had lovely W&N brushes direct from the company, and also from 3rd party art stores like Jacksons. They're hosed.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:51
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the only good series 7 i got was from amazon, the two i bought in a physical art store were complete trash. my small and large 8404 brushes have been impeccable. if you really want an expensive brush, get the raphael imo
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Jul 13, 2022 17:21
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The Demilich posted:Don't buy anything 
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Jul 13, 2022 17:26
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Spanish Manlove posted:Weirdly enough, one of my favorite brushes is Michigan toy soldier branded brush that I think is just a rosemary and Co brush with a different badge on it. War and Pieces posted:(Shout out to Michigan Toy Soldier they've got anything you could want for painting) Don't buy from Michigan Toy Soldier.
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Jul 13, 2022 17:27
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Okay you've convinced me
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Jul 13, 2022 17:36
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Bored Online posted:Just wanted to add that when I started this hobby, I was watching a lot of citadel color videos, because I figured “might as well see how the manufacturers intend this stuff to work.” It was a huge mistake and set me back quite a bit, because they hardly ever mix paint. I understand the reasoning, but it really becomes a managing nightmare for a newbie. The first time I saw a youtuber mixing some 5 or so vallejo colors it blew my mind, because the citadel process is so formulaic. My palette has gotten a lot less busy since then and it is a huge productivity boost. Well, if you learned how to mix paints, then you'd have no need to buy every single shade offered by GW!  I also would say a lot of GW's target audience doesn't really want to mix paint, either because they're relatively new to the hobby and just want a ready-made shade out of the pot, or because they're GW grognards who are worried about every single loincloth on their unit of 20 figures or whatever looking slightly off-color from the rest of their army. As for me, it's probably because I'm a very lazy painter 
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Jul 13, 2022 17:43
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something something ethical consumption thanks bro
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Jul 13, 2022 18:02
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Count Thrashula posted:Okay you've convinced me well, there's one person, apparently
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Jul 13, 2022 18:04
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| # ? May 10, 2024 22:47 |
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I don't buy from them but it gets annoying to have to update my excel sheet of ethical tabletop poo poo all the time
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Jul 13, 2022 18:11
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