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What's the proper etiquette for disposing of gallon paint cans?
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Jul 6, 2022 15:27
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C-Euro posted:What's the proper etiquette for disposing of gallon paint cans? Talk to your trash service. But in general if it's latex you open the can and let it dry out, then dispose of it in the normal trash. If it's oil based you hazmat it on the next collection. Or if you have an actual functioning household recycling program like in SF you specificlly bring paint to a collection point where they will re-use it and repackage it for other people to use. TL;DR: recycling is hyper local. Call your municipality or trash hauler.
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Jul 6, 2022 15:34
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This thread might not be the one, but I have an insane question: A couple years ago, I saw a fixture that was basically an adjustable box fan on a gimbal and (I think) light fixture all on a fixture base. I've found all the ones that look as though they could be mounted in a room with Live, Laugh, Love signs but the decorator just read Dracula for the first time since high school. This one looks what would be installed in the man cave after reading half of Frankenstein. Anybody know what such a thing is called or where I could find it? The light is less important than the fan. (Background: my kid's room has a loft and even a slight slip going down the ladder would behead him with even a small normal feeling fan. He's got a powerful floor fan but it's loud and doesn't give a direct breeze.)
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Jul 6, 2022 16:11
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C-Euro posted:What's the proper etiquette for disposing of gallon paint cans? If it's latex: few trash services will take them if it's still liquid, but will if they're completed dried out/solid. They used to sell these capsules that you put into a can of latex paint that causes them to solidify. I use clumping cat litter - dump in a cup or two & leave it for a few days. Motronic posted:Talk to your trash service. If it's mineral -based, they may take them at your recycling center. Empty Sandwich posted:This thread might not be the one, but I have an insane question: Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Digital-Mount-White/dp/B07MLHP4PV/ref=zg_bs_11194456011_3/131-6271968-3035406?pd_rd_i=B09PVQWFVM&psc=1 Probably could adapt it to mount to a ceiling box. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 6, 2022 |
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Jul 6, 2022 16:16
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PainterofCrap posted:If it's latex: few trash services will take them if it's still liquid, but will if they're completed dried out/solid. They still do, or at least it comes in just a powder now. Works surprisingly quickly. Did this a year ago when I had to deal with the better part of a dozen leftover cans of paint of all the hideous colors the PO shotgunned throughout the house.
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Jul 6, 2022 16:49
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PainterofCrap posted:Would this work? I think that's what we'll end up doing if the other thing isn't made anymore.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:07
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I'm replacing a few broken lightswitches and noticed this single pole switch that has: a backstabbed hot, plus 2 hots connected to two terminals. Never seen this before- usually it's just two hot wires connected to the two screw terminals. Is this wiring unusual or dangerous in any way, or should I duplicate this arrangement with my new replacement light switch?
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Jul 6, 2022 17:41
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In my master bath, the shower is right next to the door to the bedroom. Whoever renovated the bathroom set the bathroom stone tile floor a smidge higher than the carpet next door, but didn't put anything to separate them, so any water that escapes the shower happily dribbles over to the carpet. So I want to put a thing on the floor under the door to keep the water in, but what is the term for the thing that I want to put down?
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Jul 6, 2022 18:01
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A threshold.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:04
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Also, it looks like it isn't possible to bypass the controller on a DC motor fan to use an adjustable speed wall switch? All the DC switches I saw were basically hardwired remotes. Correct, the same board that does the DC conversion usually also has the remote stuff on it. You need to find an older non-DC version or a different fan.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:07
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I've got a 6-foot A-frame ladder that is a little too short. Any A-frame ladder recommendations itt?
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Jul 6, 2022 20:02
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QuarkJets posted:I've got a 6-foot A-frame ladder that is a little too short. Any A-frame ladder recommendations itt? Werner Fiberglass ‼️
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Jul 6, 2022 22:21
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The pilot light is on in this gas fireplace. It’s hot, and I don’t want to pay for the gas (or extra AC). If I turn the knob to off, then close the blue gas line, will the fireplace be turned off safely?  
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Jul 7, 2022 02:35
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Ghost Cactus posted:The pilot light is on in this gas fireplace. It’s hot, and I don’t want to pay for the gas (or extra AC). The instructions to safely turn off and on the whole thing are covered by dust but right there on the bottom. I had the same deal.
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Jul 7, 2022 02:39
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DkHelmet posted:The instructions to safely turn off and on the whole thing are covered by dust but right there on the bottom. I had the same deal. Thanks! All it says is to turn the knob to off - is it a bad idea to turn off the gas too? Edit: figured it out. Ghost Cactus fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jul 7, 2022 |
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Jul 7, 2022 03:08
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No harm in double bagging.
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Jul 7, 2022 03:13
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Bad Munki posted:No harm in double bagging. Ha thanks. That’s what I did.
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Jul 7, 2022 03:21
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After it's been off for a while, sniff around the valve just to make sure there's no leak. You could even do the soapy water spray thing if you're extra-paranoid, like me. A valve that's been left open for years (decades?) might not seal properly closed, although gas valves tend to be made to a pretty high standard.
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Jul 7, 2022 06:57
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Werner Fiberglass ‼️ I just spent a few dozen hours over the past couple weeks on one of these. A+++++, would stand again.
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Jul 7, 2022 19:03
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Anyone familiar with Ring doorbell installation? Every single piece of media they put out has conflicting information, I'm assuming due to the fact that there are 19 different models that all look identical, but this poo poo is getting frustrating. I'm connecting a battery powered Ring 1 to an existing digital chime. I can't find my transformer, but the chime that is installed says it requires a 16vac 10va transformer, so I'm assuming there is one somewhere (checked the panel, which is where I'm used to them being, no dice). The manual says if connecting to an existing chime with a transformer, to install a 25ohm 50w wirewound resistor in series with one of the wires. The video in the app makes absolutely no mention of this, and just shows you connecting the chime to the existing doorbell wires. A video I found online, put out by Ring, says if the existing chime is digital, to install 'the attached diode' to one wire (I'm assuming this is the resistor?), but my ring didn't come with said diode. Do I need this diode? The existing doorbell appears to have a resistor wired between both screws, can I just use that? Is there a reason the resistor is attached to both wires in the current install, but would only be attached to one in the ring install? [Edit for posterity: Apparently some of this stuff applies to the first gen Ring, not the second gen, which is different from the Ring 2, which was discontinued in lieu of the Ring 3, but also doesn't apply to the Ring 1 Pro or Ring 3 Pro. As it turns out, I don't need the diode, and I don't need the resistor, unless I were to be hooking up *directly* to a transformer, rather than a doorbell chime, which apparently provides enough resistance on its own.] Slugworth fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jul 10, 2022 |
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Jul 10, 2022 14:02
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Slugworth posted:
IIRC from my original Ring doorbell, the resistor is supposed to connect to both contact screws on the mounting plate, not just one wire.
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Jul 10, 2022 20:20
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I need to hang some plywood from the ceiling (vertically) - like a big painting basically, in the middle of the room. Cut down a bit from full sheet, so ballpark 20-25 pounds each, with max a few more pounds of paint/etc. Less than 30 pounds certainly, might be touched a bit but no other loads on it. This is in a basement with an unfinished ceiling, so I have easy access to the floor joists. My rough plan is this: drill a hole in the top corners of the plywood sheet, put an anchor shackle in there. Do the same above in the floor joist. Run some tenso chain from one to the other (maybe with a carabiner on the plywood end to make it easier). Is this reasonable? Is there some much better way I'm not seeing? Is plywood going to come crashing down and ruin my day? The chain I'm looking at has a working load of 155lb which seems like lots.
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Jul 11, 2022 19:10
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As long as you don't put your holes too close to the edge of the plywood (or the edge of the floor joists), that sounds fine to me. Too close to the edge is a problem because the cable could tear through the wood. I think if you have a 1/2" of solid material between the hole and the edge you should be fine though. 1" would be very safe.
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Jul 11, 2022 19:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:As long as you don't put your holes too close to the edge of the plywood (or the edge of the floor joists), that sounds fine to me. Too close to the edge is a problem because the cable could tear through the wood. I think if you have a 1/2" of solid material between the hole and the edge you should be fine though. 1" would be very safe.
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Jul 11, 2022 19:26
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Any recommendations on fixing this crack in my drywall? It’s about 12” long on both sides and my guess is it’s from the house settling but I have no way to be sure. 
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Jul 11, 2022 19:31
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That is from settling and the common cure is to sand it down, fill in the crack with drywall mud, sand and repaint. Assuming you have a basement or crawlspace, you can jack up the floor underneath and add supports, but you'll probably want to call a foundation repair company to do it. If you get to the point that the door is jamming or not closing, call a foundation company. If it's 20+ year old cracks, the house is probably as settled as it's going to get. If the house is relatively young yet, couple years, expect more to develop. Quick fix, hire a drywall guy for an hour.
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Jul 11, 2022 23:46
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Trapick posted:I need to hang some plywood from the ceiling (vertically) - like a big painting basically, in the middle of the room. Cut down a bit from full sheet, so ballpark 20-25 pounds each, with max a few more pounds of paint/etc. Less than 30 pounds certainly, might be touched a bit but no other loads on it. This is in a basement with an unfinished ceiling, so I have easy access to the floor joists.
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Jul 12, 2022 01:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'd use a screw eye in the joist instead of drilling a hole through the joist. Depending on the thickness of the plywood, screw eyes would work there too and it would probably hang straighter.
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Jul 12, 2022 02:18
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I just bought a natural gas grill. I have a natural gas outlet on the deck.. The grill has a hose with a quick-connect, and my natural gas outlet has a quick connect adapter (on the safe side of the cut off, there are a few pipes connected, ending in a female quick-connect). The hose male quick-connect adapter is too large for the female quick-connect. I am not handy but I can try things if needed. I first thought "easiest would be to buy a male to female quick connect that has the correct size on both sides" but I don't think that exists, or I'm googling it incorrectly. The second issue I have is that the hose from the gas grill doesn't fit, as I said, and I don't know what size the part coming out of the wall, actually is. the natural gas regulator on the grill has a nut connecting the hose, so I could probably alternatively buy a new hose that has the correct nut screw thing on the one side, and quick connect part on the other side. so the options are, in my order of preference, I think: 1: get a male to female quick connect adapter that accepts the differently sized quick-connections, but I don't think it exists (?) 2: replace the hose. But I don't know what size the wall connecter is or if I can buy a hose that is one size on one end and another size on the other end. 3: replace the quick-connect adapter on the gas supply hose. <-- I don't want to do this
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Jul 12, 2022 23:12
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Well, #1 doesn't exist, so #2 and #3 are your actual options. Take the male ended hose to home depot/lowes, find the grill guy, he'll direct you to what you need. If that's just a new male fitting, remember to get YELLOW thread tape for installing the new fitting on the hose. It's easy, two wrenches. Or buy a new female disconnect the correct size for the hose and change that fitting, you'll still need the yellow thread tape.
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Jul 12, 2022 23:51
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When repainting a room is it okay to mix two different brands of oil-based primer? I’ve got a half used can if Sherwin Williams and scored a can of some other brand of primer but don’t know if the two will play nice together
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Jul 13, 2022 00:37
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Oil based primers can be pretty different from one another depending on their intended use. If you're talking SW ProBlock Oil and something like Original Kilz they're pretty comparable and will give you similar results. I wouldn't box them together but I wouldn't worry much about running through the one and then switching to the other. What's going on with those walls that you're subjecting yourself to oil primer to repaint though?
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Jul 13, 2022 01:38
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I'm finding small lumps in a bag of portland cement I've stored for a while. The vast majority immediately turn to dust in your fingers. There are some harder ones though. If I sift this out is it acceptable to use? This would be for a shower pan (pre-slope). Replacing it would be cumbersome (long story), so if there's a chance it is salvageable I'd prefer to take that route. Edit: found some help to replace it so just going to do that! Still curious what folks think. Jenkl fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 14:34
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Rental house we’re in has a 3 prong electric dryer plug. I used the 4 prong pigtail when I bought the dryer because we were in a newer house. I can replace the 4 prong pigtail with a 3 prong pigtail, but I found this product while looking for pigtails: https://acworks.com/products/dryer-adapters-10301430-018 To my non-electrician self, this seems safer? It has a ground. Anyone have any warnings or recommendations for this? Getting the landlord to re-wire the plug is not an option, unfortunately.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:56
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Ghost Cactus posted:Rental house we’re in has a 3 prong electric dryer plug. I used the 4 prong pigtail when I bought the dryer because we were in a newer house. E: this article explains what is going on well: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2021/01/15/do-dryers-need-three-or-four-pronged-cords Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 17:31
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Seems to me that all that adapter does is rewire your dryer without rewiring your dryer. Inside your dryer, there should be 4 terminals. The instruction manual will tell you how to connect either a 3 wire or 4 wire cord, with the difference being that the 3-wire will have you jumper the N and G together inside the dryer. All this adapter does is expose the ground wire for you to connect separately (edit: if I had to guess, it's probably connected to the Neutral on the 4-wire connector)... which you can functionally do inside the dryer by following the manufacturer's instructions. If, for some reason, the manufacturer doesn't permit 3-wire connections, then this adapter isn't going to save you, and in fact may put current on your house ground, which is very not good. (edit: also opens up the possibility of accidentally knocking the "ground" wire loose, which is also very not good). edit: tl;dr: just buy a 3-prong cord at LowesDepot and wire it up per the dryer's instructions. Doesn't look like that adapter is NRTL listed either, so it's not trustworthy. It's a hack solution for a problem that doesn't really exist, and it costs more than any 3-prong cord you could find. Honestly I'd pay $150 for an electrician to wire up a new cord before I bought that adapter. The more I read on that site the less comfortable I get. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 17:51
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Thank you both! Your explanations are great, and saved me from wasting money and potential disaster. I feel kind of dumb for being tricked by that danger-adapter. The manufacturer gives directions for the 3 prong pigtail in the manual so I’ll get one of those and have clean clothes soon.
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Jul 13, 2022 19:35
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So half the doors in my house don’t close, meaning the latch doesn’t engage with the strike plate. It’s the right height, but I just can’t push the door far enough in for the latch to lock into the strike plate if that makes sense.  Edit: never mind, the plate is too high so I think I need to lower it. nwin fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 19:58
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Hi folks. I'm having a bit of trouble assembling this thing, an IKEA "Kallax":  I've got all the grid stuff in, with its dowels, but now that I go to screw in the top and bottom, the screw holes aren't lining up:  The holes on the side pieces are all consistently lower than the holes in the outer top/bottom pieces I'm trying to screw to them. Well, apart from the one corner (top right in the first photo), which the directions had me screw in right at the start and which I didn't have any trouble with. I've checked and checked, and I do have the side pieces the right way around as per the directions:  What am I doing wrong?
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Jul 14, 2022 08:41
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Hyperlynx posted:What am I doing wrong? I have that same shelf in my office and I just took a look at it. It's not obvious exactly what is wrong with what you are doing. I have a question - in the upper left corner of the shelf in this picture, it looks like the side panel is set quite back, like several millimeters. Is that what I am actually seeing or is that a gap? On mine the top and bottom only stick out about 1mm farther than the sides. edit - I would probably loosen the screws you already have in, try to loosely fit all the screws, and then retighten them all. Shemp the Stooge fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 09:21
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