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dema posted:New bike day! Sitting on the saddle, ride off a curb or something so your rear suspension articulates, your rear rebound is set properly when the rear end comes back up and stops right at the top/sag point without dipping down a second time. One of very few things in this sport that just works. Rebound on the fork generally should be faster than you think but it's pretty hard to dial in without seeing if you're packing up.
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Jul 6, 2022 19:24
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spwrozek posted:On trails with quick dips a lot of the time it is about knowing the trail and what is coming. When to hold speed or pedal hard, what gear to be in. This stuff just comes with practice. As a relatively new rider, I've been surprised how much the fun factor increases when you know a place well. Trailforks is a great tool but once you know a place so you can plan exactly the type of ride you want and hit all the features without missing a beat... its just the best. At the same time, I've also been surprised how unfun it is to ride a new place by yourself. Constantly checking the map, casing features to make sure you have the right speed and attack angle, getting lost... I know people like the exploring but I'm usually working with tight windows so I want to avoid any down time. I've explored a lot of places within 30 minutes +/- of me so if I'm venturing beyond that, I definitely want to ride with someone who knows the place.
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Jul 6, 2022 20:49
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Was feeling kind of bloaty so I got my rear end into the woods. I ran my tires at 17ish PSI, boy does that squirm compared to 25 with tubes. Upped the pressure to 20 PSI. Climbing grip was amazing though. Still can't stick to glancing rocks and roots so I'll just have to manage my expectations. I think this is a much better balance between overall grip, stability and speed.
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Jul 6, 2022 23:15
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I decided to try some shorter cranks and and a fancy oval chainring to see if it helps my garbage tech climbing ability. This of course turned into finding out my bottom bracket was totally shot. A bunch of parts later I have new shorter cranks and an oval chainring spinning happily. Now I just need to try and climb better with no excuses left. I put the One Up switch system in to make future futzing around with chainrings easier and my next upgrade will probably be an e13 wide range 9-46 on the back to replace the 10-42 for more gear range but I'm going to wait until the cassette is more worn out. It should be good for the rest of the season at least. No fancy BB removal tools needed     I'm very happy with my one up dropper which I conveniently had shimmed down by 1cm so I just had to take the shims out and my saddle to pedal height is unchanged with the shorter cranks. 
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Jul 8, 2022 23:49
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What’s a better workout power calculator for trails than Strava? One hour of moderate slight uphill gravel biking yesterday averaging 12 mph (on my mtb) for around 15 miles = 800 calories. One hour of much harder uphill trail biking today only 300 calories. Presumably all it cares about is speed and distance so today looked easier to the app. Yeah I know it’s never going to be super realistic and accurate but its not even close if it always uses speed-distance.
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Jul 11, 2022 00:06
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kimbo305 posted:A rigid 68 HTA should help a lot with confidence on descents. It will definitely be noticeable. The longer wheelbase should help as well. Thanks for the info. I'm going to shoot for something with Fargo geometry. The Fenrir really is too long even with a super long stem, and it looks like my Wolverine with it's steep and short riser stem is just a bit too much reach naturally for me. I will be going for at least 46cm bars and crazily enough I've been looking at the Curve Walmer bars. My 78cm Canyon bars feel really good for width but I much prefer drops for any ride over an hour. I already have some 46cm cowchippers that feel a little narrow so I guess I'm just some kind of mutant. I've never cared much about efficiency and this bike is mostly going to climb and descend sketchy fire roads and Jeep trails anyway. Nyyen fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jul 11, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 00:42
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mashed posted:I decided to try some shorter cranks and and a fancy oval chainring to see if it helps my garbage tech climbing ability. I put some 165mm cranks on for the last year(im about 5 10), after running 170 and 175 for for over a decade. My thoughts on it: 1) Far kinder on the knees 2) Better for moving around and makes you feel a bit taller (changing by 0.5cm doesnt sound like much, but it feels radically different) 3) less pedal strikes 4) harder to pedal(but i can compensate with lower grear) 5) fred flinstone spinny legs Im actually very interested to see how 160mm would feel, but it's a bit of a fanancial gamble im not ready for yet.
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Jul 11, 2022 00:45
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ethanol posted:What’s a better workout power calculator for trails than Strava? The calculators online always bothered me for the same reason so I just bought a heart rate monitor. It’s been nice knowing I can fully justify whatever post ride meal I want i.e. a burger and a beer. I got my Lyrik installed on Friday and took it out for a ride on Saturday. I was super impressed with how it chewed up everything in front of me. Unfortunately my shock pump broke while I was setting it up so I wasn’t able to dial it in 100% before the ride (it was a little firmer than I wanted). I’m still figuring out HSC and LSC. From what I’ve read it seems that I should have LSC fully compressed on roads/fire roads, fully open (closed?) on tech climbs, and have it somewhere in the middle for downhill stuff? Does that sound right? And HSC should be opened up for any downhill or big hitting features? I’m not sure if it was the slight change in HTA, the extra travel, or the extra confidence I had but I holy crap do I need to work on my cornering. I had to eject off the bike on one berm and drat near went otb on another.
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Jul 11, 2022 01:58
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yoohoo posted:The calculators online always bothered me for the same reason so I just bought a heart rate monitor. It’s been nice knowing I can fully justify whatever post ride meal I want i.e. a burger and a beer. Apple Watch does a decent job keeping track of heart rate but I don’t know if stravia is using it…. Maybe the default apple app is better
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Jul 11, 2022 02:03
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yoohoo posted:The calculators online always bothered me for the same reason so I just bought a heart rate monitor. It’s been nice knowing I can fully justify whatever post ride meal I want i.e. a burger and a beer. Aim for 20 to 25 percent sag on the front - standing on the bike and play with heavy and light hands and you should fall beween that range. Also i would initially set it by rockshox suggestions for weight then adjust from there by preference. For rebound set it also by rs recommendation for weight. For lsc and hsc it's something you need to play with. If the fork is too active and your rebound is right add a bit of lsc. If you bottom out a lot, volume spacers and or hsc helps. Also Lsc needs a little hsc to work properly I find. Volume spacers and lsc adjustment can help if the fork feels to divey in corner. Check out bracketing as a way to figure this stuff out. I wouldn't be setting compression different for uphill vs downhill. I'd only ever add hsc or and extra psi as a pre ride thing for a specifically steeper downhill venue . Trying to lock out a front fork on a squigy bike is a weird thing to do and I dont think it would be that helpful for uphill.
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Jul 11, 2022 10:44
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Need some wheel advice as I fall down the rabbit hole. Relatively new rider on 2022 Specialized fuse expert hardtail. Getting faster, going bigger. Over the last month or so I've dented my rear wheel in multiple places, knocked it out of true, had a shop true it up and on the last ride discovered it leaking tubeless sealant at those dents for the first time. The shop said it was ok to keep riding when they trued but it would eventually need to be rebuilt. The leaks sealed themselves but since they are bad enough to leak in the first place, I'm thinking the wheel isn't going to last much longer as they are getting worse... and I don't want to ride it if its going to fail. The specs on the fuse list the wheels as just specialized alloy. It looks like this but based on dimensions I don't think its the same (148x12 vs 141x9). Maybe the 148x12 is unavailable at the moment? Either way I need a replacement and not sure if that hub is an upgrade or downgrade. Also, I've posted about this before but I think I'm definitely going to graduate to a full suspension in the near future (that pivot last page looking super nice...) as its better suited for the riding I'm doing, so I was looking to just do an OEM replacement for eventual sale. Since that isn't as easy as I thought, I could upgrade both wheels with something to take to a new rig but then I still need something for sale. I could replace just the rear then look to sell but then I have two different wheels. I could look into having the wheel rebuilt but is it even worth it as it's relatively cheap if I can get the right size? Lot's of choices. Google is turning up lots of results. Any advice on where to start reading or advice on a best path forward?
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Jul 11, 2022 14:48
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Homers BBBq posted:Need some wheel advice as I fall down the rabbit hole. You have a 148mm thru axel on the rear of that bike. The wheel you linked will not be compatible. You can either rebuild with any rim using your existing hub (you can get a Stans rim for like $100, then it will be another ~$200 to rebuild it) or I would just pick up a M 1900 from DT Swiss. Should be this model: M 1900 SPLINE 29 - 30 MM CL 12/148 MM SRAM - W0M1900TEDRSA18983 I would also put a tire insert (cushcore or something similar) in if you are damaging the rim or run a higher pressure.
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Jul 11, 2022 16:31
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Homers BBBq posted:Need some wheel advice as I fall down the rabbit hole. First, why did the wheels bend? Too low of pressure? If not then maybe look into cushcore or the other rim protector things. Never personally installed one but they sound like a PITA. Second, that linked wheel won't fit because as you said the rear hub spacing is different. You need a boost spacing rear wheel, 148x12. Looks like you have GX which uses an XD driver for the rear hub. These are interchangeable with other drivers if your next bike has a different drivetrain (shimano is different, etc.). I'm not sure how your brake rotors attach (6 bolt or center lock I think it's called?) but that's important when you're looking for compatibility when buying wheels. I don't see anything compatible on specialized web site that you could use as a replacement though. Probably supply chain related. Plenty of other places to buy though as long as you can stand not having "matching" wheels on the bike when you sell it. I'd rather have that than buy a bike with a bent wheel.  If you can find a shop to rebuild it, you might just do that and sell it on. When I go to buy wheels someday (maybe?) I'm probably going to pick up a set of carbon nobl wheels with an onyx hub. Everybody has different opinions on hubs (engagement, sound, colors!) so might be something to look into a bit on what you want. Same thing for carbon vs. alloy wheels. If you go carbon, find a place with a really good warranty like Santa Cruz or Nobl, IMO. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 11, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 16:35
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Side note, I did not know Spec sold $3000 hardtails!
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Jul 11, 2022 16:57
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numptyboy posted:Im actually very interested to see how 160mm would feel, but it's a bit of a fanancial gamble im not ready for yet. Yeah, I've been curious ever since someone linked this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7sKhKi9Bcc Nyyen posted:The Fenrir really is too long even with a super long stem quote:I will be going for at least 46cm bars and crazily enough I've been looking at the Curve Walmer bars. My 78cm Canyon bars feel really good for width but I much prefer drops for any ride over an hour. I already have some 46cm cowchippers that feel a little narrow so I guess I'm just some kind of mutant. Are you riding on the hoods or drops? kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 11, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 17:23
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spwrozek posted:Side note, I did not know Spec sold $3000 hardtails! Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I've been running 23 psi +/- front and back just based on experimenting and feel and I'm 195lbs. Based on my reading that's not terribly low but definitely puts me at risk for dents so I'll probably run a little higher in in the future (on the next rim).
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Jul 11, 2022 18:49
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There's so much variation in tire size and casing and wheel width and pressure gauge measurement, and then of course it's heavily dependent on weight, so recommending hard numbers doesn't always work, but yeah a couple extra in the rear at least would be a good idea. try like 24/26. I'm always looking for as soft as I can go without bottoming out the rim or getting that feeling of the tire folding/rolling over in hard corners. What that number is for me and my tires and my gauge is about 21/22 f/r and then I might go up or down a bit depending on conditions. It's borderline not enough for really rocky parts or our flow trail with jumps and grippy berms where you're putting a lot more force on the tires. I also have an insert in the rear wheel now but haven't adjusted pressure so far because of it. jamal fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 19:01
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Homers BBBq posted:Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I've been running 23 psi +/- front and back just based on experimenting and feel and I'm 195lbs. Based on my reading that's not terribly low but definitely puts me at risk for dents so I'll probably run a little higher in in the future (on the next rim). I'm the same weight and run 21/23 but the "jumps" in my area are pretty laughable (and I'm a coward).
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Jul 11, 2022 19:40
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Homers BBBq posted:Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I've been running 23 psi +/- front and back just based on experimenting and feel and I'm 195lbs. Based on my reading that's not terribly low but definitely puts me at risk for dents so I'll probably run a little higher in in the future (on the next rim). On the front 23 psi would be fine - but for your weight id say 23 on the rear is very low. I guess it depends on the tyre but id think you would be a lot safer at 23/26 plus for the front/rear. I run maxxis double down front and rear and i would only go 22 front 25 at the very least on rear, and im about 160lb. So i would suggest 26 at minimum and add rim protection if you are dead set on running that low. Even with a tough casing, i can sometimes feel square edge hits that would have dinged my rims if they were my old alu rims which i got 2 years out of. At their end of life they were a pain in the rear end to inflate on account of the dings and they would not lie flat when unlaced from the hub. Ive been running carbon rims since then with no issues, i check them now and again and im super impressed. Truing them is super easy, as they dont taco. For reference im running ethirteen lg+ carbon rims(they come with 5 year no questions asked guarantee). It maybe worthwhile asking about what alu rims other recommend.
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Jul 11, 2022 21:18
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On my current bike I run way too low of pressure and have cracked my stock Bontrager Rear. No insert on this one, just smoked it good. Then dented my Stan's Flow so bad it wouldn't seat the tire. I was running cushcore on that but just hit so so hard in Moab. I laced up my hub with a a Spank 359 Vibrocore this time. Hopefully 3rd times the charm. I recommend them all. I don't recommend riding like a jack rear end.
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Jul 11, 2022 21:54
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I'm 195, too, and I run like 19/21 with my 2.3 tires. I like tires to be juuuuuust on the edge of squirmy.
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Jul 11, 2022 23:26
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kimbo305 posted:Yeah, I've been curious ever since someone linked this: I have mostly ridden road bikes where toe overlap made that impossible, and I honestly didn't consider it at the time. After doing a lot more reading I determined the Fenrir while cool looking, wasn't really what I was wanting as a next bike, so ultimately it's moot. quote:Are you riding on the hoods or drops? I ride mostly on the hoods, and use the drop for really sketchy stuff or as an alternative position on the 46cm bars. Not sure what would feel better with a few inches less reach. Right now both positions feel a little tight and piss off my shoulder after an hour or so. Riding my mtb with it's much larger bars doesn't cause the pain so I'm assuming the grip width has something to do with it. I'm also moving around more on the mtb as I don't have as much weight on my hands and can shift more readily, which could also explain the lack of pain. Finally, I need wide bars for the big fuckoff bar bag I have up front which I like the look of and am too lazy to take off when I don't need it. Thank you for listening to me rationalize my weird bike choices.
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Jul 11, 2022 23:52
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Crashed on a silly and not hard section last night and landed in a big bush of stinging nettles, my arms still sting and either my derailleur hanger or the derailleur itself is bent  BUT Before that I sent a fairly sizeable river gap that I've been thinking of for a while so that more than makes up for it. Edit: fitted a new hanger and that seems to have fixed it fingers crossed! Didn't fancy forking over the cash for a new XT mech Aphex- fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 09:01
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Second rear thru axle I've broken on my hardtail in the 7 years I've owned it. Had to hike back to my car but has anybody else had issues with thru axles breaking? I have had issues with it loosening on particularly rough downhills and so I double check it pretty often now but my thru axles never loosen on my full suspension... My theory is that when it loosens up, the load goes into the threads and eventually, it fails.
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Jul 12, 2022 20:40
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Strange. Maybe you overtightened it to try to keep it from loosening and it started necking right where the threads started and failed from there? Try and take a closer up pic of it where it broke, side view and straight on?
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Jul 12, 2022 22:49
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Something like that I wonder if the hub is actually the right size for the bike, or if it is, if the axle is being tightened to spec or over.
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Jul 12, 2022 23:33
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Here is some classic mountain bike logic that made me lol as I work through the options for my dented rim. New rim + rebuild is going to cost me $300 plus time and effort => If I'm going to spend that on a new rim, I might as well spend $350 and just get a new M1900 rear => If I'm going to spend that on just a rear wheel, I might as well spend $600 and get a new front as well. => If I'm going to spend that on a borderline entry level wheelset, I might as well spend $1200 on some nice wheels => if i'm going to spend that on new wheels, I might as well just get a new bike => New bike day!
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Jul 13, 2022 20:44
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Change my name to Money Hater because I like bikes
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Jul 13, 2022 21:05
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I would suspect too loose. A tight axle will only be in compression and that force through the dropouts will keep the rear axle from moving. A loose axle lets the hub shift around and impact the axle and they're just a fairly thin aluminum tube. In other news i finally ordered a new xc hardtail today. After like 2 years of trying to get an orbea alma, and then seeing if I could get that new cannondale, I wound up going trek so I'll have a procaliber here hopefully before like september. I only have like 1-2 more mtb races this year and the hei hei is pretty light and fast now so no real rush I guess.
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Jul 13, 2022 22:19
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Homers BBBq posted:Here is some classic mountain bike logic that made me lol as I work through the options for my dented rim. New bikes rule, do it.
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Jul 14, 2022 21:07
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Suburban Dad posted:Strange. Maybe you overtightened it to try to keep it from loosening and it started necking right where the threads started and failed from there? Try and take a closer up pic of it where it broke, side view and straight on? Thought about that but it would randomly loosen after particularly rough sections. Not every time but once in a while I would notice the lever itself had rotated so I would tighten it as best I could without being able to put a torque wrench on it. I've since thrown away the axle but even the original Ibis one I had succumbed to the same issue but since that required a 5mm to rotate it, I never knew if it had come loose mid-ride. jamal posted:I would suspect too loose. A tight axle will only be in compression and that force through the dropouts will keep the rear axle from moving. A loose axle lets the hub shift around and impact the axle and they're just a fairly thin aluminum tube. That's what I'm thinking. I ordered a wolftooth replacement that has a steel washer that sits up against the dropout itself so there's no friction to overcome while torquing it. VelociBacon posted:Something like that I wonder if the hub is actually the right size for the bike, or if it is, if the axle is being tightened to spec or over. This has happened with two different hubs but was two different axles(albeit the same dimensions)
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Jul 16, 2022 03:43
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EvilCrayon posted:Thought about that but it would randomly loosen after particularly rough sections. Not every time but once in a while I would notice the lever itself had rotated so I would tighten it as best I could without being able to put a torque wrench on it. I've since thrown away the axle but even the original Ibis one I had succumbed to the same issue but since that required a 5mm to rotate it, I never knew if it had come loose mid-ride. My Buddy has a Polygon that the rear axel comes loose every 3-4 rides if he ignores it. Nothing looks wrong so we can't figure it out. Not sure if he ever reached out to Polygon or if they are helping at all. He has resorted to putting a 5mm on it at the start of every ride which is pretty annoying to me. E: basically I am no help
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Jul 16, 2022 16:35
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Would some blue thread locker not help here?
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Jul 16, 2022 20:13
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PolishPandaBear posted:Would some blue thread locker not help here? Generally you shouldn't use it for something that has a torque spec and you expect to be installing and uninstalling a lot, it can change the resistance under tightening and result in undertorque. As I understand it.
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Jul 16, 2022 20:25
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VelociBacon posted:Generally you shouldn't use it for something that has a torque spec and you expect to be installing and uninstalling a lot, it can change the resistance under tightening and result in undertorque. As I understand it. Correct, friction+ means the torque required to achieve a given bolt tension increases as well, which you don't have a way to measure.
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Jul 16, 2022 23:34
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I always make sure the threads on through axles and frames are clean, the dropouts and endcaps are clean, and then get some grease on the threads and the head of the axle. And thru axles need to be pretty tight.
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Jul 17, 2022 02:52
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Idk if you're tightening it to spec every ride and it's still coming loose that's not really a you problem
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Jul 17, 2022 06:18
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I wonder if the frame is off and the dropouts aren’t aligned.
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Jul 17, 2022 16:03
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Bud Manstrong posted:I wonder if the frame is off and the dropouts aren’t aligned. Yeah, or maybe the dropouts are loose? The other thing to check would be play in the axle and bearings. Maybe the preload stack has wound off a bit in the main rear hub and its making the axle a touch too wide and prone to movement which is allowing the thru-axle to unwind. The axle should just need grease and not threadlocker as others have said.
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Jul 17, 2022 16:35
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Comedy option it’s a non boost wheel in a boost frame.
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Jul 17, 2022 18:55
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