|
Gorson posted:I don't see the benefits. Ignoring the added complexity (this is difficult) why would they do it this way over a single slightly larger carb? Is it cocaine? Might be like the motorcycle version of cylinder deactivation... You can have 2 carbs when you're full-throttle, then just one when you're puttering around...?
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2022 13:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:35 |
|
|
That’s sort of what it was, I believe, one only came into play after a certain throttle position Also cocaine
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2022 14:24
|
|
|
It's bored engineers coming up with answers to problems that don't really exist; see the entirety of BMW's product lines for the past 40 years
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2022 17:07
|
|
|
It's an attempt to broaden the torque curve on an engine that has been tuned to be high revving and peaky, but isn't any of those things by nature. It is very, very analogous to the systems in 90's cars that shut off every second intake port as an attempt to improve intake velocity at low revs. If you have an engine designed to gulp huge amounts of air at high speed (big valves, big carb) you find that intake airflow is really sluggish until the thing gets on cam. The fewer cylinders you have, the bigger this problem is. You can mitigate this by restricting airflow to a smaller orifice at lower speeds so that intake velocity stays high. There are 80's small bikes that achieve this effect by having two carbs, with one carb only opening when the throttle linkage goes past a certain point. The Yamaha's system is just the next step - make the secondary carb open via vacuum so it's completely responsive to load and not just directly proportionate to throttle opening. Modern bikes do this through a variety of methods but the idea is always the same: make your peaky engine less lackluster down low.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2022 22:39
|
|
|
I fixed something, somehow, maybe Sequence of events: Rode for a couple hours Low on fuel, flipped petcock to reserve Pulled into gas station, added $5 of gas Drive off Pulling up to light, bike stalled out Flipped petcock back to main, accidentally tweak idle knob as well, set that back to where I think it was Tried to start it, strong spinning by starter, didn't ignite Tried bump-starting in second, engine was turning, but no ignition Keep trying the above (starter and bump start) for various combinations of choke and extra throttle About five minutes after stall, start feeling ignition. Extra throttle gets it going. Engine sounds rough and growly, and idle is out of place (too high). Revs fall off slow. Adjust idle back down, until idle back at ~1100 and revs fall off at an appropriate rate. Engine still growly. Drive off. Engine response seems good at higher revs/throttle. Notice engine no longer sounds growly at low rpm. Pull in at home, engine sounds and responds like normal, idle is high again so adjust back to ~1100. I think what may have happened is some gunk in the bottom of the tank may have got into the carbs when I switched the petcock to reserve, and it may have jammed one or more of the pilot jets, and in the course of riding home I unjammed them. This'd be a good time to replace my cheesy fuel line qd with a fuel filter.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 02:17
|
|
|
I was going to ask if $5 represents more or less fuel than the reserve capacity? It sounds like you either didn't put in enough gas to reliably cover the normal inlet and it took ages to get some in there, or the system is so dirty that the carbs filled too slowly and you were running on partially filled floats for ages. Or you have a vacuum tap that isn't working well anymore. Pilot jets can't really clear by themselves cause the suction is only in one direction and it's tiny tapering hole; I guess it could happen theoretically but I've never heard of it. I would at the least take the petcock out and have a good look at the inlet mesh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 03:45
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I was going to ask if $5 represents more or less fuel than the reserve capacity? It sounds like you either didn't put in enough gas to reliably cover the normal inlet and it took ages to get some in there, or the system is so dirty that the carbs filled too slowly and you were running on partially filled floats for ages. Or you have a vacuum tap that isn't working well anymore. Pilot jets can't really clear by themselves cause the suction is only in one direction and it's tiny tapering hole; I guess it could happen theoretically but I've never heard of it. I would at the least take the petcock out and have a good look at the inlet mesh. I switched over preemptively, wasn't actually in reserve yet, the gas gauge was just on the empty tick. Yeah, the plugged jet is just a hypothesis, I don't think it explains the non-starting very well. At best I'm pretty sure from the lovely idle that I was down a cylinder for some amount of time for some reason, and the better response at higher rpm/throttle is what led me to think pilot jet. Opening the petcock up sounds like a reasonable idea. I replaced the o-ring in it a couple months ago, might as well put another new one in there while I've got it open. (Which means I gotta find where I put the fuckin things.) Phy fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Jul 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 04:26
|
|
|
The tenere just had low battery voltage somehow. Started with a booster pack after checking the fuse and voltage. Fuse was ok(and starter motor does not go via it afaik). Battery was at 12.45v. Hope it's not some charging system issue. Running voltage over poles was 13.5 at idle though. Rode it yesterday and to work this morning, and it started fine. It was just wierd that the dash was dead, no light on the neutral indicator when it happened on friday. Other strange thing is that its not easy if possible at all to shift into neutral with engine running and bike is stationary. Turn the bike off and it shifts fine. Not had this on other bikes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 11:45
|
|
|
Supradog posted:The tenere just had low battery voltage somehow. Started with a booster pack after checking the fuse and voltage. Fuse was ok(and starter motor does not go via it afaik). Battery was at 12.45v. Hope it's not some charging system issue. Running voltage over poles was 13.5 at idle though. Rode it yesterday and to work this morning, and it started fine. Going with classic poo poo Battery Syndrome on that. Every year SBS affects dozens of goons. The neutral while running thing is somewhat normal. I find rocking the bike or bouncing it "unlocks" neutral when it is being tricky.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 14:58
|
|
|
Rocking is one way. Veeeeery gently letting out the clutch is also an option but that's more for when you are in neutral, and having a hard time shifting into first. It's normal, some bikes are easier to shift into neutral than others. Hard shifting can also be an indicator of old oil. Just before my 1000km overdue (so not too badly overdue) oil change i found myself in false neutrals more and more often, having to put deliberately move the shift lever rather than gently pushing on it and letting it snap in place by itself (sooooo satisfying, it never gets old)
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2022 16:36
|
|
|
Phy posted:Opening the petcock up sounds like a reasonable idea. I replaced the o-ring in it a couple months ago, might as well put another new one in there while I've got it open. (Which means I gotta find where I put the fuckin things.) Ok, I pulled the petcock out and opened up the diaphragm side. Everything looked clean and the screen was intact, if a little yellowed. I also emptied out as much gas as I could, but the worst that was there was some paint flecks from the tank, inside where the O-ring seals, from 20-odd years of gas contact. So I think that eliminates crap in the gas, unless there's a disintegrating seal inside or after the petcock. The screen inside the tank seemed really really fine. I guess if the vacuum line or petcock diaphragm is making GBS threads the bed, if this happens again I'll try turning it to Prime and see if it runs right away.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 06:59
|
|
|
Try priming the carbs, then turning the tap off and draining the bowls, see what comes out?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 07:05
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:Rocking is one way. Veeeeery gently letting out the clutch is also an option but that's more for when you are in neutral, and having a hard time shifting into first. It's normal, some bikes are easier to shift into neutral than others. Honda apparently expects me to change the oil every time I service the chain, ergo every 1000 km. I am anal about maintaining the bike, but I don't think I will do that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 10:37
|
|
|
Are you sure it's not every 10.000 km? 1000 is nuts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 13:55
|
|
|
Invalido posted:Are you sure it's not every 10.000 km? 1000 is nuts. Just checked again because it seems so outrageous, but nope. Oilfilter, motoroil 1000 km x 1 R for replace. I did replace it once outside the service schedule during the first year of ownership. But right now I'll probably just let them replace it during dealer service and that's it. Unless somrone can suggest a reason I should do it mid-season or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 14:19
|
|
|
You're still on a '20 CB500X, right? I found a few owners manuals online - some downloadable straight from Honda. This is for a '21, and not off Honda's site, but the '18 that was on their site lists the same service intervals: So this is saying do your oil at 1000 km (the break-in), then 12800, then 25600, then 38400, then at successive intervals of the same distance. Or, replace it yearly if you're not putting that mileage on. And filter every other oil change. I think "frequency" was a poor choice of words on Honda's part here. At least to my mind "frequency" implies do the oil every 1000, and also every 12800, and also every 25600 like some kind of wack-rear end wave function, but that's not the intent when you look at the note on the following page for the chain, where they specifically call out "do it every 1000 km". 
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 14:50
|
|
|
If I'm doing my math right they say to change it every 8000 miles????? drat, I've literally never had a bike that didnt shift like the transmission was filled with gravel after 1,500 miles on the oil
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 14:57
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:If I'm doing my math right they say to change it every 8000 miles????? No need to do math, top row of intervals is miles. With my 13, the shifter felt like crap for the last 500km or so? They’ve improved the the valve checks at least; the first was early; at 12 or 16k km.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 15:08
|
|
|
Phy posted:You're still on a '20 CB500X, right? I found a few owners manuals online - some downloadable straight from Honda. This is for a '21, and not off Honda's site, but the '18 that was on their site lists the same service intervals: Ah drat you are right, this explains why i was so confused last time I picked up the manual and saw it. I remembered that the chain was every k, then i saw the oil thing and thought "that's crazy", but didn't look at the chain again, so I didn't notice the obvious difference. I take back my initial statement, this is totally sensible.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 15:17
|
|
|
Snapshot posted:No need to do math, top row of intervals is miles. With my 13, the shifter felt like crap for the last 500km or so? lol, completely missed the miles row.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 15:21
|
|
|
I actually rode my FZR today  It ran like poo poo when i finished the work but after a couple hundred meter it smoothed right out. Throttle feels much much smoother with the new cable. I'm so happy i can ride it again. What's left is to make it semi pretty again by smacking on those delicious 1990s plastics
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 16:44
|
|
|
Found the issue on the tenere, don’t assume the battery screws are still tight, always double-check.. Changed tires on my fz6n. Put on new Diablo 4 front and back before the summer vacation. As always, new tires was awesome.  The Pirelli gt2 rear was at the wear bars at 14k km /9k miles. Front power 5 was at 17k km/ 10.5k miles with still some life left.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 19:56
|
|
|
New Michelin City Grips on the Monkey. Local guy did mount and balance for $30/wheel. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 23:31
|
|
|
Is that a see-through timing cover? Lmfao
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2022 23:58
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Is that a see-through timing cover? Lmfao Yeah I bought it with a bunch of aftermarket stuff already installed and that was one of them. Dealer mechanic bought the bike new and installed all this. He put all of 251 miles in it before putting it back in the showroom waiting for me to stop by. Some of what he added was good (Yoshi exhaust, the seat, tail tidy, and the fuel/ignition controller) but a lot of it was utter trash. I figured if a dealer tech installed it's alright. Go ahead, get all your laughing out of the way lol For example...... Bar end mirrors - trash Headlight grill - trash White bulbs in 3 turn signals. loving why Aftermarket cam - so much trash that it ended up lunching the entire engine at 3600 miles. It's a cheap cam with extreme timings that are milled from a stocker. But you need longer stem valves at that point. Exhaust valve stem broke in half at 60 mph. Front sprocket - geared down from stock, trash. The lesson here is that all POs are trash fires and should not be trusted. After I rebuilt the engine I added a couple of functional things: dad screen and a hard case. I also put the gearing back to stock and installed stock mirrors. TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jul 13, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 00:11
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:I figured if a dealer tech installed it's alright. Where does this myth come from??
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 01:23
|
|
|
I figured wrong
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 01:24
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Where does this myth come from?? They're professionals!
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:The lesson here is that all POs are trash fires and should not be trusted.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 04:18
|
|
|
Dealer techs put my loving tires on backwards, and disassembled a wheel I wanted trued saying “it can’t be done” so I had to rebuild it myself all over again lmao no
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 04:51
|
|
|
One thing that I realized recently is that dealer techs never have a chance to think about stuff. If I get a curly problem that I can't narrow down quickly, I find something else to do while I think about it. When I come back later, I can try a bunch of stuff I thought of in an orderly efficient manner. The total time actually playing with the bike is minimized. At a dealer you're forced to justify every minute you stand there staring at the engine. This means you do very little thinking and a great deal of parts replacement because you have to fix it right now and the assumption is always that the manual will cure everything, so if reading the manual didn't help...
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 05:04
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:One thing that I realized recently is that dealer techs never have a chance to think about stuff. Yeah it's those pesky timetables that only schedule x work time for job y. It is a nice thing for the consumer to know that the expensive dealer shop time will only be 0,75 hours, but it means there is absolutely no time for advanced diagnostics or thinking if the bolt that looks wrong should maybe not be there or whatever. I am not happy with my dealers performance, they don't seem like the type to understand or appreciate a precision machine and that is what I consider a Honda motorcycle. I want(ed) to leave any serious engine work to the shop, but unless I find a better independent place, I will only continue going to my dealer until the 5 year warranty is over. I am just really starting to think they will mess something serious up at some point. @Slavvy: Which parts of motorcycle mechanicing would you consider the hardest/least approachable for amateurs? Or maybe just requiring specialty tools.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 09:39
|
|
|
Suspension internals and engine internals can be relatively brain and resource intensive, tyres are brutal work for a beginner but not mentally taxing. Some chassis stuff like swingarm bearings demands special tools to one degree or another. Swapping big parts like wheels, engines etc usually isn't difficult, most electrical repairs are straightforward, most brake repairs are straightforward. Things like carbs are somewhere in the middle. Diagnosing undesirable behavior is by far the hardest part for people learning, that goes for spannering and riding imo. No knowledge or experience so no context and no reference. Replacing parts is a question of following the manual and having the money and tools (so, money).
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 10:46
|
|
|
With the Tenere in working order it's time to start on the project I actually wanted to do this summer.  This one is actually working mechanically and will be mated to a side-car that I've had sitting around for a while.  First order of business is goin over the frame, some rust spots here and there, then new tires, heated grips, the biggest windjammer I can find etc etc
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 14:48
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Diagnosing undesirable behavior is by far the hardest part for people learning, that goes for spannering and riding imo. No knowledge or experience so no context and no reference. Replacing parts is a question of following the manual and having the money and tools (so, money). Speaking of! Slavvy posted:Try priming the carbs, then turning the tap off and draining the bowls, see what comes out? I didn't drain the carbs yet! I did ride around the city for an hour and a half and the stall didn't recur. But, I also didn't gently caress with the petcock. So now I'm wondering if it was either an issue with the vacuum actuation or maybe I fumblefingered something when I was turning it. Or it's a ghost issue that's going to leave me stranded in the middle of BC in 30° heat. Also last night I tried to install a tail rack, because I don't want to lay stuff like my tent on top of the tail plastics any more, after they cracked last year. Cue lots of cussing out the Germans (sw motech kit) after the multiple angles didn't quite line up and all I succeeded in doing was gouging the gently caress out of the powdercoat on my replacement grabhandles. I'm sure I can get it but I'll have to loosen off the brackets for my sidecase racks and those already took a lot of swearing and bullying to get in place. Not looking forward to it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2022 16:46
|
|
|
Supradog posted:Found the issue on the tenere, don’t assume the battery screws are still tight, always double-check.. I had the exact same issue on my DR350SE and boy did I feel foolish when the new battery showed up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2022 11:23
|
|
|
Continuing with some minor cosmetic jobs on the 919. When I bought it the grab handle was super manky and the first thing you'd notice. A while back I got new OEM bolts and caps:  But the handle itself was still stained and spotted and gross. Used that Dupicolor silver enamel and yep it's a great match. 3 coats of primer and 3 of color.   I also painted new used headlight brackets I got off eBay. One of mine is broken from the PO dropping it:  The new ones are straight but needed a painting as they were super worn like my grab handle. Unfortunately I couldn't get them installed as I discovered the inner headlight stay is tweaked on both ends from the turn signals smashing inwards on drops (thanks again PO, at least he installed a brand new OEM tank when that happened). So now I need to work on either pulling it straight or finding a used one. Also sanded and painted the metal plates at the passenger footpegs. They were super rusty before. Looks better now but they're pretty pitted so not perfect. Threw a new set of OEM ones on my next parts order since they're available and $7/ea.   Few weeks ago I did stainless brake lines and fluid. New shock just landed from Italy, will work on that next most likely. opengl fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Jul 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
Nice work! Going part by part and making each one nicer eventually leads to a tipping point where your eye is no longer drawn to the eyesores and the bike looks brand new. You'll know when you've hit it. Nice to know Honda still uses the same colors. By the way with this paint I've noticed it can sometimes spray on and look a little splotchy like the colors didn't mix properly, but as it cures the color evens out. It sprays on easily and dries evenly and is durable (gently caress off, rustoleum).
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 13:01
|
|
|
I like the City Grips I put on the Monkey. Very smooth, nice grip. It is frustrating, however, that they are smaller than OEM and now my speedo reads 5.6% over. I could fix it with a speedo reprogram. I really don't like that it brings my RPMs in 4th to near redline, which I'd like to avoid. A tooth on the front sprocket is good for 7%. I might try to find a slightly smaller rear sprocket instead. It's time for a new chain, anyways. Strips! (Pegs drag at this point) 
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 16:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:35 |
|
|
I 'properly' rode the FZR600 for the first time in almost a year today. It's so nice. It's a bitch to ride in slow traffic but on some medium speed twisties it's lovely. I'm now committing to buying a set of fresh tires for it  Now to decide which ones. I think i'll just get the same battlax t32 that are on my SV.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 16:26
|
|