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Ulio
Feb 17, 2011


Oh brother even the first tutorial level was surprisingly hard, also what country playlist do you guys listen to while playing this?

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Anything with Willie Nelson in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBN86y30Ufc

Elendil004
Mar 22, 2003

The prognosis
is not good.


Ulio posted:

Oh brother even the first tutorial level was surprisingly hard, also what country playlist do you guys listen to while playing this?

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/3qWgtQnHeWba2fDPeT351Z?si=a51f85c4f1a54726

Ciaphas
Nov 20, 2005

> BEWARE, COWARD :ovr:


Ulio posted:

Oh brother even the first tutorial level was surprisingly hard, also what country playlist do you guys listen to while playing this?

the in game music :v:

(admittedly most of the music is nothing too special but there's a few standouts for setting the mood. like the one i always link in this thread whenever given the chance - including right now)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9NprU7wajY&t=794s

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider
The in game music is very good and chill.

Snowy
Oct 6, 2010

A man whose blood
Is very snow-broth;
One who never feels
The wanton stings and
Motions of the sense



Ulio posted:

Oh brother even the first tutorial level was surprisingly hard, also what country playlist do you guys listen to while playing this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH2-osLCKzw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NU7s3YOmrk

Discendo Vox
Mar 21, 2013

This does not make sense when, again, aggregate indicia also indicate improvements. The belief that things are worse is false. It remains false.

Ulio posted:

Oh brother even the first tutorial level was surprisingly hard, also what country playlist do you guys listen to while playing this?

The game does an incredibly poor job of explaining many, many things at the outset, and it also starts you with some real trash vehicles- I got totally stuck getting to my first garage because the game sort of misrepresents what routes are viable with your starting vehicles. Beyond this thread, we've got some experienced players in the co-op goons discord that can explain the traps.

Epic High Five
Jun 5, 2004



I definitely recommend some starter tips videos just for the basic outline of it because yeah, they were tasked with either making a really long tutorial or just giving you the basics and sending you off and went with the latter. First truck is garbo but first scout is solid, the truck you get for free with its AWD by the garage is rock solid though. Do a lot of scouting at first, you'll get ranks from unlocking stuff and similar, so once you start serious truckin you've got more upgrades available for your truck.

Co-op is a lot of fun and the only way logging missions aren't horrible. Pulling an endgame megatruck for someone to use who is starting to get a bit frustrated is a real morale boost, as is helping people with big tough stuff like unlocking the 650

Ulio
Feb 17, 2011



drat now we rolling.

Btw whats the difference between L gear and the middle(a) gear? In the beginning it says L gear is good for muddy areas but offroad areas the a gear works better. Is L gear purely for super muddy areas?

Ciaphas posted:

the in game music :v:

(admittedly most of the music is nothing too special but there's a few standouts for setting the mood. like the one i always link in this thread whenever given the chance - including right now)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9NprU7wajY&t=794s

Haven't noticed any background music yet but maybe its just the beginning area?

K8.0
Feb 26, 2004

Her Majesty's 56th Regiment of Foot
The non auto gears just lock the transmission in a specific gear. The L gears are special low gears, which can help with stability when pulling uphill (where the truck might lack power to keep going and wind up shifting up and down) or going downhill (where low gear can restrain your speed, keeping things more controllable), or sometimes when you're in mud and your speed is capped super low anyway and you may as well have the extra torque for pulling over bumps or whatever without lurching around and possibly rolling. L also gives you the ability to just lean on the brakes without worrying about going into reverse, and that's also true for R. H locks you into a higher gear, which can again be useful while pulling where you don't have the power to maintain a higher gear and don't want to keep going 1 2 3 reset 1 2 3 reset.

Nothing about gear or throttle actually affects traction, the way through everything is to just fuckin floor it and let them spin. There's no real downside to spinning your tires other than wasting fuel. Snowrunner doesn't have a remotely realistic traction model. It's very much a game, not even slightly close to a simulator.

K8.0 fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jul 15, 2022

mastershakeman
Oct 28, 2008

by vyelkin
Are you positive that wheel speed doesn't affect traction? I swear there's times when I can't get over some slick rock when in L+ but dropping down to L- I finally can

Also the L/H gears are way more fuel efficient, on top on H being able to power through stuff that would downshift you otherwise

magimix
Dec 31, 2003

MY FAT WAIFU!!! :love:
She's fetish efficient :3:

Nap Ghost
I'm not going to claim to know the internals of traction modelling in the game, but I do disagree with K8.0 on this.

Going my my own experiences at least, churning mud can slow down your progress, or bog you down entirely. I frequently encounter situations where my progress through some hazards is faster and more consistent when I choose a gear and/or throttle position that minimises wheel-spin.

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider

mastershakeman posted:

Are you positive that wheel speed doesn't affect traction? I swear there's times when I can't get over some slick rock when in L+ but dropping down to L- I finally can

Also the L/H gears are way more fuel efficient, on top on H being able to power through stuff that would downshift you otherwise

Yeah, K8.0 is definitely wrong about that. L, L- and L+ absolutely have more traction than higher gears that cause you to spin your tires, especially if the truck has an engageable (not always on) differential lock that can only be used in low gears.

e: Also I'm pretty sure spinning your tires without moving can dig you in to a degree, making it harder to get out of the spot you're in because you now have to drive up the tiny little mud hill in front of your tires. I landed face down in the 420 once and stuck in that position, perpendicular to the ground, rear end up with nothing in winch range and was able to use the front tires to slowly dig myself a little hole that let my truck eventually fall backwards and drive. The deformable terrain absolutely affects your traction and your spinning tires deform it.

RandomBlue fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jul 15, 2022

explosivo
May 23, 2004

Fueled by Satan

You can see it in action pretty much any time you get stuck in mud. The game is indeed not a simulation but it does have a remotely realistic traction model.

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider
LOL, can't imagine playing this game just flooring it in auto all the time. lmao

e: Also using L or L+ in deep mud, even when winching, is usually faster than using higher gears and letting your tires spin because of the increased traction.

RandomBlue fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 15, 2022

K8.0
Feb 26, 2004

Her Majesty's 56th Regiment of Foot
Yes, you sink, but you sink no matter what you do. You can't go light on the throttle in a low gear and not spin/sink in mud. You're horizontal movement to vertical sink ratio is the same no matter what you do. Sometimes L can have a slightly lower total sink rate when winching is your primary movement source, but that rarely matters. If you're stuck without motion and spinning tires, you will sink, but changing gears isn't going to change that situation unless you're torque limited (or going into L lets you diff lock and gain more traction).

And no, lower gears do not have more traction. This is trivial to prove by switching between A and L in a situation where you can't move or can barely move due to traction. The only movement speed advantage you will gain is that sometimes the truck will shift in A which causes slower movement overall, since the time spent shifting is wasted. Yes, engageable locking diffs can produce more traction, but that's the diff lock preventing torque from shifting away from the highest traction wheels, not the lower gear itself. The only times L gears will make the difference between not being able to move and moving is when you are torque limited, not traction limited.

It is true that sometimes you can gain fuel efficiency benefits with L or H, but rarely. H in particular seems to rarely be fuel efficient, where you'll usually wind up doing something like halving your speed in exchange for dropping 40% of fuel consumption. The main benefit comes like I said when moving big loads, where shifting constantly will cause a ton of time to be spent eating fuel but not producing traction, meaning you go slow and inefficient in A.

No one who has ever driven off road would call this game realistic in any aspect. The core principles aren't even present, aside from high centering sometimes mattering. The entire reason I'm confident about what I'm saying is that at first I tried to drive like it's realistic, and it gives literally no benefit. I don't think it would be a better game for it if it did. My only real criticisms are that sometimes the pacing is excessively slow even for a podcast game, and obviously the UI for winching is awful and I can't believe they haven't fixed it.

Epic High Five
Jun 5, 2004



The difference in mud between L- and auto with my Yar 87 at least is night and day. If the tires are moving real fast you're going nowhere but down, nice and slow though and you'll get through it. For larger trucks another big factor is that it's also going to depend on what you're hauling, as the more weight you have on the rear wheels the more performance you're going to get out of them. It's most evident in the Pacific trucks.

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider

K8.0 posted:

Yes, you sink, but you sink no matter what you do. You can't go light on the throttle in a low gear and not spin/sink in mud. You're horizontal movement to vertical sink ratio is the same no matter what you do. Sometimes L can have a slightly lower total sink rate when winching is your primary movement source, but that rarely matters. If you're stuck without motion and spinning tires, you will sink, but changing gears isn't going to change that situation unless you're torque limited (or going into L lets you diff lock and gain more traction).

And no, lower gears do not have more traction. This is trivial to prove by switching between A and L in a situation where you can't move or can barely move due to traction. The only movement speed advantage you will gain is that sometimes the truck will shift in A which causes slower movement overall, since the time spent shifting is wasted. Yes, engageable locking diffs can produce more traction, but that's the diff lock preventing torque from shifting away from the highest traction wheels, not the lower gear itself. The only times L gears will make the difference between not being able to move and moving is when you are torque limited, not traction limited.

It is true that sometimes you can gain fuel efficiency benefits with L or H, but rarely. H in particular seems to rarely be fuel efficient, where you'll usually wind up doing something like halving your speed in exchange for dropping 40% of fuel consumption. The main benefit comes like I said when moving big loads, where shifting constantly will cause a ton of time to be spent eating fuel but not producing traction, meaning you go slow and inefficient in A.

No one who has ever driven off road would call this game realistic in any aspect. The core principles aren't even present, aside from high centering sometimes mattering. The entire reason I'm confident about what I'm saying is that at first I tried to drive like it's realistic, and it gives literally no benefit. I don't think it would be a better game for it if it did. My only real criticisms are that sometimes the pacing is excessively slow even for a podcast game, and obviously the UI for winching is awful and I can't believe they haven't fixed it.

You have no idea what you're talking about when it comes to this game, but go ahead and keep posting.

Ulio
Feb 17, 2011


magimix posted:

I'm not going to claim to know the internals of traction modelling in the game, but I do disagree with K8.0 on this.

Going my my own experiences at least, churning mud can slow down your progress, or bog you down entirely. I frequently encounter situations where my progress through some hazards is faster and more consistent when I choose a gear and/or throttle position that minimises wheel-spin.

I don't know if that user is correct or wrong but since I am at the very start, that's what the game tells you do though I don't have enough experience to know whats right or wrong thats why I was wondering. So L is good for straight up mud but on off road type dirt roads you can go in the regular gear?

Btw also if you get stuck side ways there doesn't seem to be a place to winch on the side of the truck, is there a way to get back on your wheels without going to recovery?

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YBbRkcTzcM&t=260s

Set to start where it shows the massive difference between spinning your wheels in higher gear and switching to low. But at this point I'm assuming K8.0 will ignore this as well as the info in game and continue trying to post through it.

Elendil004
Mar 22, 2003

The prognosis
is not good.


Ulio posted:


Btw also if you get stuck side ways there doesn't seem to be a place to winch on the side of the truck, is there a way to get back on your wheels without going to recovery?

If there's any winch points and you have an autonomous winch you can usually do it, or bring another vehicle and winch it around. If you can't winch right back onto the wheels drag it up a slope then let it roll down or something.

Epic High Five
Jun 5, 2004



You can just stay in high or auto all the time and be fine. If this sounds like it may help you, ask your doctor about Twinsteeritall

Elendil004
Mar 22, 2003

The prognosis
is not good.


load your twinsteer with 2 cabins then try that

Epic High Five
Jun 5, 2004



Elendil004 posted:

load your twinsteer with 2 cabins then try that

Summoning mastershakeman to the Snowrunner thread to weigh in on this, my get poo poo done combo was an Azov 7 and Voron AE or 650r

K8.0
Feb 26, 2004

Her Majesty's 56th Regiment of Foot

Ulio posted:

I don't know if that user is correct or wrong but since I am at the very start, that's what the game tells you do though I don't have enough experience to know whats right or wrong thats why I was wondering. So L is good for straight up mud but on off road type dirt roads you can go in the regular gear?

Btw also if you get stuck side ways there doesn't seem to be a place to winch on the side of the truck, is there a way to get back on your wheels without going to recovery?

You can absolutely winch on the side of trucks. It's just that all but the autonomous winch won't work if your engine is off.

The non-recovery solution is to go get another truck to pull the one that flipped upright. Or, before you go somewhere that's going to flip you, pre-attach the winch off to the side so you can use it to hold the vehicle upright.

RandomBlue posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YBbRkcTzcM&t=260s

Set to start where it shows the massive difference between spinning your wheels in higher gear and switching to low. But at this point I'm assuming K8.0 will ignore this as well as the info in game and continue trying to post through it.

That's not at all what that shows but go ahead and keep believing that. In the first example, the break is in power is what causes the truck to move. If he just let go of the gas and then hit it again, it would have the exact same effect. In the second example he pushes the truck right to where it regains traction in A, then switches to L. You can clearly see this, the front wheels start moving BEFORE the shift. In neither case did L provide a traction benefit, because that's not how this game works. This is very easy to test yourself. The fact that you haven't done so is your problem, not mine.

magimix
Dec 31, 2003

MY FAT WAIFU!!! :love:
She's fetish efficient :3:

Nap Ghost

Ulio posted:

I don't know if that user is correct or wrong but since I am at the very start, that's what the game tells you do though I don't have enough experience to know whats right or wrong thats why I was wondering. So L is good for straight up mud but on off road type dirt roads you can go in the regular gear?

It is situational. Low gears aren't just useful for mud traps, for example. But rather, in any situation where a higher gearing might be problematic. For example, towing a really heavy trailer up a steep, icy road. Hell, driving *down* a very steep slope (low gearing to limit how fast you can go). The disposition of the vehicle is also be a factor. The thing is, when you are driving, if you pay attention to how your vehicle is performing, you'll be able to deduce which configuration is useful and efficient. The main crux, certainly of my argument, is to not just floor it all the time (or rather, acknowledging that there are more options than that, that can be useful), or ignore gearing choice.

As much as the choice of vehicle, and vehicle customisation, is about choosing the right tool for the job, so too is choosing the right gear, and throttle usage. Getting the most from your vehicle. Of course, that doesn't mean you have to be super-hardcore about it, and I'm certainly not. It's just about being aware of your options.

mastershakeman
Oct 28, 2008

by vyelkin

Epic High Five posted:

Summoning mastershakeman to the Snowrunner thread to weigh in on this, my get poo poo done combo was an Azov 7 and Voron AE or 650r

Elendil004 posted:

load your twinsteer with 2 cabins then try that
you just gotta lean on trees like you're a drunk . but yeah, i like L for control (and difflock)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw-ySxuw8iQ

Ciaphas
Nov 20, 2005

> BEWARE, COWARD :ovr:


K8.0 posted:

Nothing about gear or throttle actually affects traction, the way through everything is to just fuckin floor it and let them spin. There's no real downside to spinning your tires other than wasting fuel

try this in the deeper snows of Imandra in the Kovd region and get back to me if you succeed because i'll be seriously impressed

or hell maybe some of the uglier parts of Taymyr'll do, especially if you're laden. maybe even Alaska

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider

K8.0 posted:

That's not at all what that shows but go ahead and keep believing that. In the first example, the break is in power is what causes the truck to move. If he just let go of the gas and then hit it again, it would have the exact same effect. In the second example he pushes the truck right to where it regains traction in A, then switches to L. You can clearly see this, the front wheels start moving BEFORE the shift. In neither case did L provide a traction benefit, because that's not how this game works. This is very easy to test yourself. The fact that you haven't done so is your problem, not mine.

huh, weird

K8.0 posted:

Nothing about gear or throttle actually affects traction, the way through everything is to just fuckin floor it and let them spin.

Ciaphas
Nov 20, 2005

> BEWARE, COWARD :ovr:


personally i'm not sure whether a lower gear in-game confers, like, a buff to traction? or whether it's entirely due to reduced top speed and lack of shifting

either way i regularly floor the throttle and use the gears to control my tire speed and regain traction, unless the cacky's real bad; but i'm no mastershakeman

Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jul 15, 2022

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

Ciaphas posted:

personally i'm not sure whether a lower gear in-game confers, like, a buff to traction? or whether it's entirely due to reduced top speed and lack of shifting

either way i regularly floor the throttle and use the gears to control my tire speed and regain traction, unless the cacky's real bad; but i'm no mastershakeman

I don't think it does. There's something going on, but it doesn't work like Mudrunner at all.

I've had times with the P-12, especially over rocks on soft ground or mud, where it simply won't move in L1, L3, or A1, but L2 serves to get her going until I can slam it into L3. I suspect that has more to do with how the game models 4WD than "torque".

The "floor it" technique you detail works as well as anything. Honestly, as much fun as I had carefully avoiding wheelspin with the C-256 in Mudrunner, Snowrunner would be maddening to play like that.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
I've found I just don't use automatic at all very much any more. A consistent speed is much more controllable, and if I'm in a situation where L- won't work, that means I hosed up and it's a better use of my time to get a truck over to rescue than trying to dig out of that mire going less than 1 mph.

SilkyP
Jul 21, 2004

The Boo-Box

I, for one, am glad this thread is getting spicy

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

SilkyP posted:

I, for one, am glad this thread is getting spicy

Go ahead, talk poo poo about GMC9500-bae.

I'll fight you. When I get there. Eventually.

Ulio
Feb 17, 2011


I don't know what I did but I am pretty sure I lost the first free truck you get from the tutorial? I went from Michigan to Alaska as the tutorial said then I went back to Michigan without doing anything in Alaska. I spawned with my truck in the garage in Michigan, it says I had no fuel and my truck was damaged. Don't know if changing locations cost fuel? After that I don't know I couldn't move at all the game suddenly sent me back to the residential area where you get a pickup truck. I drove back to the garage and the truck isn't in my storage either. Luckily I got a offroad truck with some dlc, KRS 58 Bandit, now I am using that to do some missions. Btw is it better to complete the watchtowers with a scout/pickup type vehicle? The roads seem really narrow for those.

I see people talking about L- L+ but for my trucks its greyed out, do you need an upgrade for that? Also is there any penalty in using recover to just return to the garage once you finish a mission?

Ulio fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jul 16, 2022

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Ulio posted:

I don't know what I did but I am pretty sure I lost the first free truck you get from the tutorial? I went from Michigan to Alaska as the tutorial said then I went back to Michigan without doing anything in Alaska. I spawned with my truck in the garage in Michigan, it says I had no fuel and my truck was damaged. Don't know if changing locations cost fuel? After that I don't know I couldn't move at all the game suddenly sent me back to the residential area where you get a pickup truck. I drove back to the garage and the truck isn't in my storage either. Luckily I got a offroad truck with some dlc, KRS 58 Bandit, now I am using that to do some missions. Btw is it better to complete the watchtowers with a scout/pickup type vehicle? The roads seem really narrow for those.

I see people talking about L- L+ but for my trucks its greyed out, do you need an upgrade for that? Also is there any penalty in using recover to just return to the garage once you finish a mission?

The only places your truck could be is on a map, in a garage, or in storage. There's no other place a truck could be, and the only way you can remove a truck that you own is by selling it.

L- and L+ are unlocked with gearbox upgrades. Usually the Offroad, Advanced, or Advanced Special gearbox, depending on the truck.

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider

Ulio posted:

I don't know what I did but I am pretty sure I lost the first free truck you get from the tutorial? I went from Michigan to Alaska as the tutorial said then I went back to Michigan without doing anything in Alaska. I spawned with my truck in the garage in Michigan, it says I had no fuel and my truck was damaged. Don't know if changing locations cost fuel? After that I don't know I couldn't move at all the game suddenly sent me back to the residential area where you get a pickup truck. I drove back to the garage and the truck isn't in my storage either. Luckily I got a offroad truck with some dlc, KRS 58 Bandit, now I am using that to do some missions. Btw is it better to complete the watchtowers with a scout/pickup type vehicle? The roads seem really narrow for those.

I see people talking about L- L+ but for my trucks its greyed out, do you need an upgrade for that? Also is there any penalty in using recover to just return to the garage once you finish a mission?

You need to go to the garage in Alaska and store your truck then go to Michigan and get you truck out of storage in that garage. This is done in the garage menus.

Recovery has no penalty but you can't recover trailers.

Ulio
Feb 17, 2011


Ok thanks probably sold it then by accident? I was wondering if there is a way to know or calculate how much fuel it takes to get to a certain distance? How do I transport fuel to a car that is stuck without fuel when I go to the fuel place it just shows option to fill up the car I am currently driving.

RandomBlue
Dec 30, 2012

hay guys!


Biscuit Hider

Ulio posted:

Ok thanks probably sold it then by accident? I was wondering if there is a way to know or calculate how much fuel it takes to get to a certain distance? How do I transport fuel to a car that is stuck without fuel when I go to the fuel place it just shows option to fill up the car I am currently driving.

You need either a fuel trailer (you can buy at the trailer store, right next to the garage on the first map) or a truck with a maintenance or fuel attachment (via the garage). Then you drive to the out of fuel truck, open the menu and you'll find refueling options there, just make sure the source is the trailer and the target is the out of fuel truck. You can also do this with a truck that has a large fuel tank if you want.

Recovering the truck will return it to your garage, refuel it and repair it.

How much fuel it takes to go a certain distance depends on several factors, truck fuel efficiency rating, how you drive, the route you take, how loaded you are (I think, not 100% sure on that last one). You get a feel for it as you drive the trucks and learn the routes.

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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

RandomBlue posted:

How much fuel it takes to go a certain distance depends on several factors, truck fuel efficiency rating, how you drive, the route you take, how loaded you are (I think, not 100% sure on that last one). You get a feel for it as you drive the trucks and learn the routes.

how much time you spend getting lost, how much time you spend idling while looking at the map, how much time you spend running into the same tree over and over, how much time you spend with your trailer stuck on a stump, etc.

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